In the 1820s, a young painter left London to live in Shoreham in the west of Kent. In his waterside cottage, Samuel Palmer – remembered now as a key figure of British Romanticism – depicted moonlit cornfields, apple trees bowed under fruit and hills swollen with light. He dubbed the area his Valley of Vision. Two centuries on, Palmer’s own vision of Shoreham – and the surrounding Darent Valley – as a demi-paradise isn’t too far from the canvas.
I’ve lived in the area for five years and can’t quite believe how few people come to Shoreham. It feels like a secret yet is less than an hour from London by train. The village itself sits on the River Darent, remarked on by Edmund Spenser in his poem The Faerie Queene for its gentleness and clear water: “The still Darent, in whose waters cleane, ten thousand fishes play and decke his pleasant streame …”.
This 21-mile chalk stream glides into the Thames from Westerham and can be explored by the scenic waymarked Darent Valley Path. Shoreham is a pretty place. The road into the village drops to a stream under a weeping willow, flanked by two good pubs, and it makes a good base for exploring. Lopsided Tudor chimneys and pastel cottages lean over the lanes, and the Grade I-listed church of St Peter and St Paul keeps watch over the churchyard. It’s no surprise artists still come here to capture Palmer’s magic.
Neighbouring Otford and Eynsford are minutes on the train (or a short drive). Otford is the antique-hunter’s village, with waterside houses, the ruins of a 16th-century palace and a listed duck house on the pond – check out the labyrinthine Otford Antiques and Collectors Centre. Eynsford has the history: Lullingstone Roman villa with its beautifully preserved painted walls; Lullingstone Castle, favoured by Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn; and the ford, ringed by half-timbered houses.
Don’t miss
My top recommendation is cream tea at the Shoreham Aircraft Museum. The valley saw heavy aerial combat in the second world war, and this volunteer-run museum remembers it. You enter through the garden door of artist and proprietor Geoff Nutkins’ home, past overgrown flowerpots, witty hand-painted boards and an antique Hovis sign above a converted bakehouse, now a tearoom frozen in the early 20th century. The delicious puddings and doorstop sandwiches come from Nutkins’ own kitchen. (My Tunisian girlfriend describes it to friends as “exotically English”.) The £5 ticket to the museum buys entry to a lifetime’s collection, plus the story of his work building memorials to lost servicemen from both sides.
Take a hike
Bring comfortable shoes. The beautiful gentle four-mile stretch of the Darent Valley Path from Shoreham to Eynsford suits all abilities, and is as good on a crisp winter day as in July, following the river through empty woodlands and rolling hills. It’s just four minutes by train if you’d rather ride back.
A 20-minute stroll from the churchyard in Shoreham brings you to Castle Farm (five minutes by car), one of the UK’s largest lavender growers. The farm shop, under rafters hung with hops, sells lavender oils, teas and ice-cream made from the harvest. Stock up on a box of gypsy tarts, a Kentish staple made with condensed milk and muscovado sugar. Grab some lavender honey, too (the farm keeps beehives). A coffee shed serves lavender teas and coffees. In summer you can picnic among the rows, à la Provence, or book to join in the harvest.
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Where to eat
In Shoreham stop by The Crown for lunch. This dog-friendly locals’ pub has an intimate dining room and serves hearty, locally sourced classics such as fish and chips and a handmade pie of the day. Portions are large, but leave space for dinner at The Samuel Palmer. The beamed, fire-lit bar serves traditional pub favourites and small plates, while the bright, kid-friendly restaurant at the back presents chef Kieran Farquhar’s elevated seasonal discovery menu at £48 a head. At Mount Vineyard, the on-site restaurant has a pizza menu, and a quaint cafe by the vines serves coffee and handmade pastries.
In Otford try The Bull, with its pretty gardens. In Eynsford, The Malt Shovel is a favourite locally for lunch, with big portions and fair prices.
Where to stay
My pick is White Hill Woods, five minutes’ walk from Shoreham station, which has a log cabin for families (from £150 a night), and a shepherd’s hut for couples and solo travellers (from £100 a night, both two night minimum). There is a heated pool or just relax in the forest. Book ahead, as it’s popular with repeat visitors.
Getting there and around
There is a twice-hourly train from London Blackfriars to the villages, which takes about an hour, and using it to hop between them takes minutes. The Line 2 bus from Swanley to Sevenoaks runs along the road between the villages. Drivers will have no trouble parking, even on weekends.