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EasyJet 26 day strike action plan affecting 5 key airports in UK holiday hotspot

More than 3 million Brits travel there every year

UK travellers should be prepared for the risk of strike action over the next few weeks in a popular holiday hotspot. Millions of UK holidaymakers will be travelling abroad in the weeks ahead.

And France is one spot that will be popular with Brits. More than 17 million UK people travel there every year, according to the UK Foreign Office.

Now the new threat of industrial action has broken out – and it runs throughout the remainder of the summer holiday period. EasyJet cabin crew in France could walk out in strike action expected to run until September 2. Flight attendants there have complained about rota arrangements and working conditions.

French media report that three unions representing cabin crew at EasyJet France have issued strike notice covering the period from 7 August to 2 September. They have complained of a “continuing deterioration” in working conditions, according to a joint statement released this week.

What should you do if your flight is cancelled? For those planning to travel with the airline in the coming weeks, passengers whose flights are disrupted by cancellations or delays will be given 48 hours’ notice. Simply head to the ‘Booking’ tab in the EasyJet app to access the relevant information.

Should your flight be cancelled, you can request either a refund or a ticket change directly from the airline. If the replacement departure is scheduled for the following day, EasyJet may foot the bill for a hotel and a taxi to the airport.

The airports facing strike action include Lyon, Nice, Paris Orly, Bordeaux and Paris Charles de Gaulle. A spokesperson for ⁠easyJet said the company was disappointed and had made an offer of changes to tackle their concerns. ⁠They said: “Given we have planned negotiations in September, we call on the unions to call off this ⁠counterproductive action at this important time of the year for our customers”.

French news site RTL reports that workers are denouncing what they describe as “a vicious circle that has been going on for a year now”, with the SNPNC-FO, UNAC-CFE-CGC and UNPNC-CFDT trade unions condemning “the chronic instability of timetables, last-minute changes, imposed ‘trippings’ (a series of flights over several days, ed.), particularly gruelling rotas and a total lack of protective measures”.

“The notice period has been deliberately left open to cover the entire period,” the trade unions stress, adding that “key dates” for industrial action will be confirmed “48 hours in advance”.

The unions have accused management, whom they claim to have been warning “for nearly a year”, of failing to provide “concrete and binding” solutions to their concerns. Luckily for travellers, a previous strike call at EasyJet on Easter Monday in April had only a minimal impact on air traffic.

Local media say that as France’s second-largest airline by passenger numbers after Air France, British carrier EasyJet predominantly operates short- and medium-haul routes. The airline employs several thousand staff in France, a considerable proportion of whom work as cabin crew.

Gaël Leloup, a union representative for the Union of Civil Aviation Cabin Crew (UNAC), told RTL that “scheduling instability” has gradually become “the company’s normal way of operating”: “It’s normal to change people’s schedules once, twice, three or four times in the same day. And dozens of times a month, too. You might be moved from morning to evening shifts, or sent to another base in Europe for three or four days.”

The union representatives say they are fully aware of the disruption this strike action will cause to passengers’ travel plans, with another hectic weekend of holiday traffic on the horizon. “The sad thing is that it’s our passengers who will bear the brunt of it,” laments Gaël Leloup.

But with talks between staff and management having ground to a halt, workers feel they have been left with little choice: “After a year of discussions and still no solution, we have no option but to take major industrial action.”

For its part, EasyJet’s management said this week it is urging trade unions to withdraw the strike notice. The trade unions say they remain “open to negotiation” to call off the strike notice, provided that management “puts forward clear, concrete and binding solutions”.

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The bizarre American island where they speak ‘Elizabethan English’ with no chain stores or commercial flights

An image collage containing 3 images, Image 1 shows Wooden boardwalk to the beach over sand dunes with two people standing at the end looking out at the Atlantic Ocean, Image 2 shows The Ocracoke Light lighthouse on Ocracoke Island with a boardwalk in the foreground, Image 3 shows View of the town of Ocracoke, North Carolina, with boats in the foreground and a water tower visible

THERE are a few villages in the UK that give an insight into old England, let alone destinations from across the pond.

There’s a city in North Carolina that has a hint of British about it as they speak “Elizabethan English”.

Ocracoke Island has a huge island and is home to around 700 people Credit: Alamy
There are no chain shops, restaurants or bars in the area Credit: Alamy

Ocracoke is a village on Ocracoke Island, part of North Carolina’s coastal Outer Banks region.

It’s a 16-mile long barrier island – which is a long long sand ridge parallel to the mainland coast, separated by a shallow body of water like a bay or lagoon.

The island, considered the ‘Pearl of the Outer Banks’ is home to around 800 people of whom who have their own unique way of speaking.

One visitor described the locals’ accent as being “Elizabethan English”.

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Brian Carlton told the BBC: “People here just have their own way of speaking: it’s like someone took Elizabethan English, sprinkled in some Irish tones and 1700s Scottish accents, then mixed it all up with pirate slang.”

He even made a remark about being called a “dingbatter”.

The dialect is called ‘Hoi Toider’, which is a rare mix of English, Irish, and Scottish accents mixed with early maritime slang.

It’s almost only spoken on the Outer Banks islands in North Carolina.

Residents all live in the central Ocracoke Village which is also where visitors will find shops, restaurants and bars – but none that you would have seen before.

It has strict regulations about preserving its small town charm, so only independent, regional brands are allowed.

The 16-mile long island has lots of beach which is considered the ‘Pearl of the Outer Banks’ Credit: Getty

Every shop, hotel, and restaurant on the island is locally owned and operated.

Standing high in the town is its 75ft tall lighthouse which is the oldest operating light station in North Carolina.

Being an island, there are lots of beaches along a 16-mile stretch – one called Ocracoke Village Beach is one is just beyond the main town.

On Tripadvisor, one visitor called it the “Best Beach on the Outer Banks”

Another said: “Beautiful beaches on Ocracoke and always special. When you look around you on the beaches, you see and feel peace.”

Along the shore, a second beach is South Point which is a popular fishing spot and where visitors are likely to find a a Scotch Bonnet which is the rare state shell of North Carolina.

The island has rich history too as it was once a popular hideout spot for notorious pirate, Blackbeard.

The shallow waters around the island provided ideal cover and Ocracoke Inlet allowed him to trap merchant ships.

Another beach is where you can find the rare North Carolina shell Credit: Getty
The best way to reach the island is by ferry or private plane Credit: Getty

Ocracoke Island was actually the site of Blackbeard’s final battle in the 1700s.

The best way to get to the island now is also by ship, but luckily, it’s much safer.

The most frequent is the Hatteras Ferry which takes around two hours and it’s completely free.

Others involve getting a ferry from Cedar Island of the Swan Quarter.

For those wanting to fly, the airport is so small there aren’t any commercial flights.

Instead travellers will have to charter a flight, or arrive in their own plane.



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Can I bring a squishy toy on a plane? UK airports explain full laws

MANY children may be asking if they can take their squishy toys on flights this summer, however, there are some rules to be aware of.

The toys have become a viral sensation, but they may not be allowed through security gates at certain airports.

Child's hands holding a green, smiling squishy toy.
Parents need to check the liquid rules of their departure airport before taking squishy dumplings in hand luggage Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Children may not be able to bring their favourite squishy dumpling toys on flights as they may get flagged by security.

This is because the toys, available in a variety of colours, contain gel inside.

UK airports have restrictions on the quantity of liquid, gels, and pastes that can be checked in through hand luggage, often limited to a 100ml volume.

However, a number of airports have developed new CT scanners that allow liquids up to two litres to be accepted through security.

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These airports currently include Belfast International, Belfast City, Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Gatwick and Heathrow.

A host of major airports, such as Luton, Stansted and Manchester still require the removal of 100ml liquids, gels and pastes from bags, and therefore would be more reluctant with squishy toys.

To see whether these dumplings would be accepted, the Department for Transport told the BBC: “No matter how adorable your squishy dumpling is, airport security rules still apply.”

The department advised passengers to check the liquid allowance at the departure airport, noting that “the safest place is in your hold luggage,” for any squishy toys.

Manchester Airport, which only allows 100ml of liquid, told the BBC that “all but very small squishy toys should be placed in the hold baggage”, with only toys with under 100ml liquid accepted through security.

But larger toys may not have the exact measurement listed on the item, meaning it’s better to bring them in hand luggage so security can estimate the size.

Gatwick Airport, which allows up to two litres in hand luggage, said they normally accept squishy dumpling toys, but the toys will be required to go through security screening.

As with anything that goes through airport security, it is important to remember if the item fails checks, it will not be allowed on the plane.

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I took the whole family to the ultimate Croatian holiday home with private heated pool and nearby Old Town

HOT, but not too hot. Relaxing, but not boring

A pool with heating and steps — and not just any old steps, they must be Roman steps.

The historic town of Cavtat is full of charm Credit: Getty
The Sun’s Rachel Shields, right, and family Credit: Supplied

Local food, but also margherita pizzas on tap. Culture, but not challenging.

Not too far from the sea, airport or supermarket. Not too expensive. Not many stairs . . . 

Trying to plan a three-generation family trip, I realised I wasn’t looking for a holiday home, but a unicorn.

The hunt took our family of five — our sons are a “lively” 11, nine and three — my 70-something parents and my godmother to a villa outside Cavtat in Croatia, a 15-minute drive from Dubrovnik airport (tick).

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Cavtat (pronounced Savtat, I learned after a confusing conversation with a waitress) looked lovely, but could it possibly tick all our boxes?

There were blue skies, and our gorgeous white stone villa had a heated pool, those Roman steps and enough bedrooms for the boys not to kill each other.

Add in a higgledy-piggledy garden with wild flowers and a lemon tree at the bottom of our drive — perfect for the G&Ts — and we were good to go.

After a first day splashing in the pool, we managed a pootle down to Cavtat’s main village, a ten-minute drive away.

To the whole family’s delight, you could park cheaply right on the marina, one of many practicalities we came to appreciate during this trip.

The old town lies on a pretty horseshoe bay in the middle of two small pine- forested peninsulas.

With white stone Dalmatian buildings and narrow alleyways, it looks like a mini Dubrovnik but is thankfully smaller, cheaper and significantly less crowded.

This isn’t a coincidence. Cavtat is often called “Old Dubrovnik” as it was once a prosperous Greek and Roman port which was sacked in the 7th century, sending survivors legging it to what later became Dubrovnik.

Whatever its provenance, with a smooth promenade (tick), a cluster of great-value restaurants where you could get pizza and a beer for 8 euros (tick) and a picturesque 15th century church, it was the perfect place to potter around.

The church also houses masterpieces by one of Croatia’s most famous artists, Vlaho Bukovac, who was born in Cavtat.

Bukovac’s house is just off the marina, and one day we dragged the kids inside — admittedly, largely to escape the sun.

It was a blissfully shady change of pace and with just a few rooms didn’t prompt too much whining. Easy culture? Tick.

The gorgeous villa the family stayed in
The spacious interior of the holiday villa Credit: mihoci.com

We quickly settled into a routine: Activities in the morning, followed by naps (for both toddlers and adults) and then lazy afternoons at the villa.

By day three, we girded our loins and got up early to visit Dubrovnik and take the two-kilometre walk around the legendary city walls.

On one side of the walls, which are six metres thick in places, is the vast azure sea, while on the other you peer down into a maze of terracotta roofs, with tennis courts and allotments nestling next to incredible 15th century architecture.

It’s fair to say my three-year-old was unimpressed (despite getting the best view of all of us, riding on my poor husband’s sunburnt shoulders) but he perked up when we dived inside some of the many cool “hole in the wall” bars for a cola. Be warned, they are pricey.

If you prefer to re-energise with ice cream, Dolce Vita serves the best scoops in town. Try the dark chocolate, pistachio and hazelnut “Domino”.

While Dubrovnik deserves its reputation as a must-see, we were all happy to get back to the chilled atmosphere of Cavtat.

Its only downside as a family holiday destination? The stony beaches. But that was nothing some 5-euro watershoes couldn’t fix. When the pebbles get too much, take a boat trip to Sunj bay, allegedly the best sandy beach in Croatia.

Buckets and spades in hand, we hopped on to a speedboat stocked with beers and cans of Fanta, zooming past Dubrovnik and the most expensive villa in town, which David Beckham and Beyonce have stayed in (not together, or this would be on the front page of the paper).

When we arrived at Sunj bay, we found boats can only stop just off the shore, so the boys jumped in and waded through chest-height sea to the beach.

My poor old dad was a bit less enthusiastic. After a brief stint on the sands, we headed to the Blue Cave on nearby Kolocep Island which, as you approach, looks less like a cave and more like a crack at the base of a jagged cliff face.

Pretending to be far braver than I felt, I jumped off the boat and swam towards a gap just a few feet high, shouting for the kids to follow.

Once inside, it was well worth the claustrophobic entrance. A massive chamber opens up with a high ceiling and striking bright blue water — because the cave is lit from underneath, it filters out the red light, leaving only the blue.

Dubrovnik is a must-see city Credit: Getty
Tourists stroll the stunning Old Town in Dubrovnik Credit: Getty

Towards the end of the week, we ditched the kids and escaped on our own — just the parents. That’s the best thing about a three-generation holiday: The built-in babysitters.

A white-tableclothed dinner on the waterfront, watching the sun set, was followed by a gorgeous run to sweat out our hangovers the next morning.

The Cavtat walking trail is excellent for those into fitness, wrapping around the peninsula and deliciously shaded by the Aleppo pines.

So, how did Cavtat stack up for a three-generation holiday? My son’s verdict: 9.5/10. Apparently it lost half a point for the bracing sea water.

To be fair, a warm sea wasn’t on my checklist. 

GO: CROATIA

GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Stansted to Dubrovnik from £50 return.

See ryanair.com.

STAYING THERE: James Villas has self-catering holiday homes in Cavtat from £1,637 or £327.40pp, based on five people sharing for seven nights.

See jamesvillas.co.uk.

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The Shohei Ohtani Economy: a two-mile ride to Dodger Stadium, for $85

It’s almost time for Dodger baseball. I am standing outside a hotel in downtown Los Angeles.

I could walk six blocks to Union Station and ride the free Dodger Stadium Express. I could jump into an Uber and pay about $18 for the two-mile ride.

Instead, to make that short hop to the ballpark, I am about to board a very nice bus that costs $85.

Is it worth it?

First, some background: The Japanese travel agency JTB last year signed a sponsorship agreement that makes the company the “official Japanese tourism partner” of the Dodgers. JTB sells tour packages to Japanese fans eager to make the pilgrimage to see Shohei Ohtani play.

“Some people go to Disneyland and Universal Studios,” said Masakazu Nakafuji, general manager of JTB’s New York office. “Mainly, people want to see the Dodgers for three straight days at Dodger Stadium.”

The tour packages include game tickets, hotel rooms and transportation. However, not every fan from Japan buys the entire tour package, so the company launched a shuttle service: If you get tickets and hotels on your own, we’ll sell you a VIP ride, with a bilingual guide.

“So far, our shuttle customers are 90% Japanese,” Nakafuji said. “We are going to try to expand in the English-language market.”

On the shuttle bus I rode last week, I met Tsutomu and Sayuri Ichikawa, a couple from Tokyo wearing his and hers Roki Sasaki jerseys. The Ichikawas visited in May, on a JTB tour in which they saw three Dodgers games. The couple came back to see six more Dodgers games on their own, so the shuttle offered them a familiar way to get to Dodger Stadium.

Tsutomu, left, and Sayuri Ichikawa hold up the LA hand sign as they ride the JTB shuttle to Dodger Stadium on July 30.

Tsutomu, left, and Sayuri Ichikawa were among those on a JTB shuttle bus for a July 30 Dodgers game against the Seattle Mariners.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

I also met a woman named Colleen and her 8-year-old son, dressed in an Ohtani jersey. Colleen, who declined to give her last name, was visiting from Chicago. She said she had searched for shuttle buses online and considered them a better option than “having to take an Uber or take public transportation at night with a child” on a first visit to Dodger Stadium.

And I met Lina Endo of Seattle, here for three games against her beloved Mariners. She attended the first two games with friends and chose to take the shuttle for the third game, since she would be alone.

“I wanted to check out the early entry too, so it makes sense from a cost perspective,” Endo said.

Ah, yes, the cost. Is the $85 worth it?

As if the Dodgers do not already charge enough for tickets, the team offers an “early entry” add-on option for most games: For anywhere from $40 to $70, depending on the game, you can get in three hours before game time, an hour before most fans. That lets you watch the Dodgers take batting practice on the field, although Ohtani rarely does, and get to the head of the line for giveaway items, stadium attractions and team stores.

The JTB tours and shuttle buses include early entry. For one fan, $45 for Dodger Stadium parking plus $40 for early entry equals $85 for a JTB shuttle.

For a family of four, though, $45 for parking plus $160 for early entry is still less than $340 for four tickets for the shuttle bus. In fairness, JTB is not focusing its shuttle service on locals.

“They are driving, right?” Nakafuji said.

Shuttle bus driver points in the direction for a new shuttle bus that transports fans from downtown to Dodger Stadium July 30

The shuttle bus driver points in the direction he’s trying to go in the Dodger Stadium parking lot before a game last month.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

They might be taking the Dodger Stadium Express from Union Station, or an Uber or Lyft. If there is a sales pitch to local fans, this is it: Just how long do you want to take getting out of Dodger Stadium? The wait for the Dodger Stadium Express or a rideshare pickup, and the slog out of the stadium and along Sunset Boulevard, can be excruciating.

“It’s a headache,” Nakafuji said.

The JTB shuttles leave exactly 30 minutes after the end of the ninth inning. If you want to stay for extra innings, a fireworks show, or a drone show, you risk finding your own way back.

Sounds harsh. But, on the night I rode the shuttle bus, it took just 15 minutes to escape the parking lot and return to the hotel. If time is money, maybe the $85 is worth it.

Of course, in 15 minutes, you can walk downhill from Dodger Stadium to the Metro Chinatown station, and another five minutes to Union Station.

Still, beyond the sales of takoyaki (octopus fritters) at a Dodger Stadium concession stand and Ohtani-endorsed skin serum in the team store, here’s another economic indicator in the Shohei Ohtani Economy: a two-mile bus ride for $85.

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Foreign Office ‘check with your provider’ warning for EU holiday destination

Flights were suspended after the recent incident

Families heading to Europe for their summer holidays soon may want to read up on some updated travel advice. The Foreign Office has updated its guidance for a popular EU destination. You may want to speak with your travel provider ahead of your trip.

The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office has changed its guidance for people traveling to Italy. The update relates to ‘Mount Etna Eruption – Flight Disruption’ and was added on Friday, August 7. Visitors to the Mediterranean country are informed: “Flights are currently affected by an ash cloud from Mount Etna. Check with your travel provider or Catania Airport before travelling.” The active volcano Mount Etna is on the east coast of Sicily, and is about 40km north of Catania Airport.

Plumes of ash cloud recently filled the air in the local area after an eruption of the volcano. Previous guidance on the Catania Airport website said that flights into Catania were suspended on Saturday, August 8, until 12 noon local time. Departures continued to operate as usual.

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Airport update

A later update on the airport website posted on Saturday, August 8, reads: “Following the downgrade of the volcanic activity alert level from RED to ORANGE, the resumption of flight operations has been authorised with immediate effect.

“Airspace sectors are therefore back in operation and flight landing services are being gradually restored.” But the guidance also encourages customers to keep an eye out for updates.

The airport said: “However, passengers are kindly advised to check the status of their flight with their airline before heading to the airport.” You can read the full Foreign Office guidance on the Government website.

You can also check for any fresh updates on the Catania Airport website. Travellers heading through Bristol Airport also recently faced disruption after flights were suspended owing to a fault with the runway.

Many flights were left grounded after the problem emerged late on Friday, August 7. Flights resumed at around 8am on Saturday, August 8, once the issue was fixed.

Operations were halted late on Friday, August 7, with the airport initially expecting flights to resume at 6am on Saturday. The runway eventually reopened at around 8am.

Your rights if your flight is delayed

If your flight is delayed for whatever reason, after a certain period your airline must provide certain things to take care of you.

These include:

  • Food and drink
  • Communication i.e. access to phone calls and emails
  • Accommodation if you are delayed overnight – and journeys between the airport and the hotel.

The company must provide support if your flight is delayed by:

  • At least two hours for flights under 1,500km (such as Glasgow to Amsterdam)
  • At least three hours for flights between 1,500km and 3,500km (such as East Midlands to Marrakesh)
  • At least four hours for flights over 3,500km (such as London to New York).

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The affordable Cornish holiday park with playgrounds, scone hampers and kid-friendly beach

CORNWALL will be one of the best places in mainland Britain to see the solar eclipse on Wednesday.

Ahead of the big day, my husband Paul, our daughter Lexi and I headed down in search of a quiet place to stay.

Explore the rock pools near Silver Sands Holiday Park Credit: Supplied
The relaxed lodges at Silver Sands Credit: Supplied

We found it half an hour along the coast at Silver Sands Holiday Park in Gwendreath — small, beautifully landscaped and far enough off the beaten track to ensure some much-needed peace.

After an easy check-in, we made our way around the park to our new Signature Cove Lodge.

It occupied a corner plot and had a large private garden, with enough room for a hot tub and hammock.

The two-bedroom lodges can comfortably accommodate a family of four.

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While the mezzanine room was pretty tight for our particularly tall 12-year-old, it would be ideal for smaller children.

The lodge was full of all the mod cons you’d hope for, including a fully equipped kitchen, TVs in the master bedroom and sitting room, and super-fast wifi.

There was also a wicker hamper with scones and jam on the kitchen counter, and robes and slippers in the bathroom.

As well as the lodges, you can book a static caravan and camp.

There is also a children’s play park that is suitable for under-14s, as well as another play area for younger kids, with outdoor kitchens and a large sandpit.

We spent many hours in our hot tub, where the only sounds were the birds and the occasional laugh from the children playing.

It’s the sort of spot where you could sit out on eclipse night with a drink and not have to share the view with anyone.

And while we could have stayed there all day, it was nice to get out and explore the area.

Kennack Sands is an easy ten-minute walk through woods from the site.

It’s a lovely beach for children as it’s sandy, nicely sheltered and there are endless rock pools to explore.

And you are in safe hands there, as RNLI lifeguards are on duty from mid-May to the end of September.

We had a lovely walk and sea dip and, as the water is so warm right now, it was like being in the Mediterranean.

Enjoy cottage life in Cadgwith village and beach Credit: Getty
The striking 2015 eclipse in Cornwall Credit: Gerry Penny

There are also two cafes on the beach, in case you haven’t brought your own snacks and drinks.

A 20-minute drive took us to the Lizard Peninsula, Britain’s most southerly point.

Being this far south is exactly why the area will be so well placed for the eclipse. The further south-west you are, the more the sun will disappear behind the moon.

We spent a couple of hours exploring the many gift shops and taking in the views across the English Channel.

Falmouth Harbour is stunning Credit: Getty

On the way back to Silver Sands, we stopped off at Cadgwith Cove — a traditional fishing village known for its thatched cottages and crabbing boats.

Paul was happy with a pint at the Cadgwith Cove Inn while Lexi and I explored the harbour.

And after a busy day taking in the sights, we were happy to return to our lodge and enjoy the sound of silence.

Before heading home, we drove into Falmouth, which is the place to be on Wednesday.

The Royal Navy Parachute Display Team, AeroSuperBatics Wingwalkers and the Flying Comrades will all take to the air above the bay from 6pm, just as the moon covers 95 per cent of the sun.

Visitors can enjoy it all from a choice of vantage points, including Pendennis Castle, Gyllyngvase Beach and the lawns of The Falmouth Hotel.
And best of all, this display event will be free.

It’s all part of Falmouth Week, the town’s ten-day sailing festival, which runs until next Sunday.

So head down to Silver Sands this week and get a beach holiday and a once-in-a-lifetime sky show for the price of one.

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UK tourists cautioned common errors can boost phone bills when travelling abroad

UK tourists have been told common errors can lead to boosting their phone bills when they’re abroad. To avoid the travel mishap, it’s wise to do a few things before you jet off

We all look forward to going on holiday but, as well as being enjoyable, it can be expensive, which is why it’s always handy to know how you can try and save on your phone bill. After all, most of us use our phones while we’re on holiday, but there are ways to ensure we don’t come home with growing bills.

Little you may know, there are some mistakes you likely make with your phone while travelling, but if you take action hefty bills can be avoided. Some travel tips have been shared to help people out, as nobody wants to come home to mounting bills to have to deal with after an already expensive trip.

With major networks having brought back EU roaming charges, and other travel destinations sitting outside standard roaming agreements, using your handset while overseas can prove seriously expensive. Fortunately some expert advice has been shared to help people out, as people often get stung by roaming charges abroad.

Take action before you leave

“Roaming policies vary,” explained Oleksii Pimenov, mobile data and SIM expert at global data eSIM provider SIMBUSTER. “The best way to protect yourself is to check what your plan actually includes before you travel. Don’t rely on the ‘new customer’ ads.”

Oleksii pointed out that some UK plans still include EU roaming, while others charge a daily fee of up to £2.50. Beyond Europe, that charge can climb to as much as £8 per day, which adds up rapidly.

Accidents happen

The most infuriating thing about daily roaming is that on most networks, an accidental search when the hotel’s Wi-Fi drops out can trigger a full day’s roaming fee. According to the expert, ten accidental days during a fortnight adds up to £25 squandered on absolutely nothing – or £80 if you happen to be in Egypt or anywhere else beyond the EU.

With EE, out-of-plan data abroad can set you back £13.90 per gigabyte, according to Oleksii, though the cost varies depending on where you are. For context, downloading a film can eat up 2GB and streaming a live football match would gobble up even more!

“If you’re not using a travel SIM, switch off data roaming and background app refresh until you actually need them,” advised Oleksii. “It can save you more than you think.”

eSIMS may help

If your phone supports eSIMs, it’s another smart way to slash costs. Rather than shelling out for an overpriced SIM at the airport, you can download and activate an eSIM before leaving home, giving you affordable data the instant you land.

“With an eSIM, you know exactly what you’re paying upfront, and you can have everything ready before you even board the plane,” explained Oleksii.

What’s more, if you’re visiting multiple countries, you can get an eSIM that covers a whole region – Europe, for instance – rather than a single country SIM.

Preparation is key

A bit of forward planning can also make a real difference in reducing expenses. Download everything you need – maps, children’s entertainment, music – before you leave.

Hotel Wi-Fi isn’t always reliable enough for hefty downloads and, if you’ve already got everything saved on your phone or tablet, you won’t need to worry about it.

Tips for cruise lovers

Cruise and ferry passengers also need to be vigilant. Maritime mobile networks operate separately from standard roaming, and the charges can be eye-watering.

“Unless you can use the ship’s Wi-Fi, I’d always recommend switching your phone to Airplane Mode while at sea,” added Oleksii.

Extra advice

If you do replace your UK SIM for travel purposes, you risk missing vital messages, including bank verification codes or unexpected calls. By keeping your UK SIM active alongside a data eSIM, you won’t miss anything important.

And, if you travel to a specific destination frequently, whether for work or pleasure, it’s often far more sensible to get a virtual local number.

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Historic Victorian tram depot to get huge glow-up

Illustration of a proposed architectural rendering of the Clapton Tram Depot renovation, showing a brick building with an arched entrance and an overhead walkway connecting two sections.

A HISTORIC tram depot that is one of the last of its kind is set to be transformed into a major tourist attraction.

Dating back to 1870, Clapton Tram Depot in East London will undergo a huge glow-up with 34 independent businesses and boutiques including photographers and artists.

Illustration of a proposed architectural rendering of the Clapton Tram Depot renovation, showing a brick building with an arched entrance and an overhead walkway connecting two sections.
A tram depot on London will be transformed into a new tourist destination Credit: Yellow Cloud Studio

Outside the depot, there are then plans to create an open courtyard area, as well as a terrace.

There is already a gym open at the site as well as a cafe-deli.

The depot is one of the last surviving Victorian horse-drawn tram hubs in London and was used to transfer Londoners between Clapton and the Moorgate area.

At the depot itself, it was once home to 600 horses, with stables on the first floor and tram tracks as well as where the tram carriages were washed on the ground floor.

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The depot stopped being used in 1907 and since has been used as a World War II aircraft parts factory and a bus station.

Since 2008, it has even faced demolition twice.

The latest transformation will see historic features kept such as the original shed structures as well as bring back the tram-track details.

Sim Batth, head of property for Gilini – the team behind the transformation – said: “When we acquired Clapton Tram Depot, we were acquiring something irreplaceable, a working creative ecosystem that has survived two decades of development pressure.

Illustration of the Clapton Tram Depot regeneration with a new bridge and curved facade.
The project is expected to take up to two years to complete Credit: Yellow Cloud Studio
Collage of travel items including a plane, sunscreen, passport, suitcase, and plane tickets, advertising The Sun's travel Instagram account.

“Our commitment from the outset was that any scheme had to preserve what makes this place worth saving.”

The project is expected to take between a year-and-a-half and two years to complete.



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‘Magic equation’ to finding the cheapest all-inclusive holidays including EXACT date to book…from just £33.57 per night

WHEN booking a holiday there are three specific factors you must consider that can completely change the cost.

Get one of them wrong and you could pay hundreds more for an almost-identical week away… however if you get all three RIGHT you’ve found what I like to call the holiday “magic equation”.

You could save hundreds, depending on what day you fly Credit: On The Beach

The three key ‘ingredients’ to getting the best deal are where you go, when you fly and how long you stay.

I’ve been digging through thousands of On the Beach holidays to find the best-value combination of departure date, destination and duration for every remaining holiday window before November.

I didn’t just pick whichever holiday had the lowest price, though.

My analysis also compared each option against similar holidays, prices from last year, hotel ratings, customer reviews and the number of hotels still available – and what I’ve been left with is four very specific recommendations.

There’s one for families escaping before the end of the school holidays, two for couples and families with toddlers who can travel outside term time, and one for the October half-term scramble.

So here are the four magic holiday combinations I’ve uncovered – plus a deal you can book right now for each one.

Mahdia is lesser known, but has both the history and the holiday resorts Credit: On The Beach

Fly to Tunisia on… August 20

If you’re still hoping to get away with school-age children this summer, August 20 is the date I’d be circling, especially for trips to Tunisia.

The best-value August combination in our analysis was a seven-night all-inclusive holiday to Mahdia, departing on August 20 and returning on August 27.

The average price was just £698 per person – 22.6% cheaper than similar holidays and 9.2% less than people paid last year.

That’s particularly impressive because it gets you back before the end of August too, so no breaking the school holiday rules.

Mahdia itself is a bit of an under-the-radar alternative to Tunisia’s better-known resorts.

It’s a historic coastal town with a beautiful old medina and long stretches of pale sandy beach.

The sea here is often wonderfully clear and shallow, while hotels tend to be large, all-inclusive and built around keeping children occupied.

In other words: much of what families book Turkey for, but frequently at a lower price.

I found a particularly good deal at the four-star Mahdia Beach & Aqua Park from £623pp (and it’s all-inclusive).

It’s a huge beachfront resort with several pools, waterslides, and children’s activities, as well as a high Tripadvisor score – more than 1,900 gave it 4.2 out of five.

Tunisia deal

Mahdia Beach & Aqua Park, Mahdia

  • Seven nights
  • All inclusive
  • Return Liverpool flights

From £623pp. BOOK HERE

If you click on a link in this box, we will earn affiliate revenue

Sharm el Sheikh has some great bargains for couples and families who can travel off season Credit: On The Beach

Fly to Egypt on… September 23

September is where holiday prices start to calm down from the summer surge.

For couples and parents with children below school age, the best-value combination was a seven-night all-inclusive holiday to Nabq Bay in Sharm El Sheikh, departing on September 23.

The average holiday cost £709 per person, which was 12.3% below the price of a comparable break.

More importantly, it was a massive 22.2% cheaper than last year – the biggest year-on-year drop of any winning combination in the data.

Nabq Bay is one of my favourite recommendations for anybody wanting a proper fly-and-flop holiday in September.

Temperatures are normally still well above 30C, so the weather stays beautifully warm and the resort is full of enormous all-inclusive hotels with private beaches, waterparks and enough swimming pools to require a map.

And Nabq Bay is especially well suited to families with toddlers.

Most of the holiday happens inside the resort, so you’re not repeatedly folding a buggy into taxis or attempting a cultural walking tour at precisely the moment somebody decides they need a nap.

My deal is at the Parrotel Aqua Park Resort is all-inclusive for £450pp when flying on September 23.

As the name rather usefully suggests, the main attraction is its enormous waterpark, but there are also several pools, restaurants, children’s facilities and a private beach area.

Egypt deal

Parrotel Aqua Park Resort, Nabq Bay

  • Seven nights
  • All inclusive
  • Return Stansted flights

From £450pp. BOOK HERE

If you click on a link in this box, we will earn affiliate revenue

The three-star Supreme Hotel in Turkey is our biggest bargain on the list Credit: On The Beach

Fly to Turkey on… October 13

October delivered the strongest overall value score from all the data I sifted through, especially when flying to Turkey.

The winning combination, by far, was a seven-night all-inclusive holiday to Marmaris, flying on October 13 and returning on October 20.

This is just before the half term holidays so is suited for couples or families with little kids not yet in school.

The average price was just £537 per person – that’s 21.4% cheaper than similar holidays and 11.6% below last year’s price.

Marmaris works brilliantly in October because you get the best bits without quite so much of the summer chaos.

The resort wraps around a huge bay backed by pine-covered mountains, with a long waterfront, beaches, boat trips and a seemingly endless supply of restaurants.

Daytime temperatures are typically still warm enough for the pool and beach, although evenings are cooler and there’s a greater chance of rain than during summer.

It’s also a great month for exploring. You can walk the marina without melting, take a boat along the coast or visit Marmaris Old Town without needing to stop for emergency air conditioning every ten minutes.

The deal I found is at the three-star Supreme Hotel, a simple but well-reviewed base with a pool, restaurant and a useful location for reaching the centre of Marmaris.

The best deal I found was an all-inclusive week at the Supreme Hotel from £235pp when flying October 13. At £33.57 per person, per night  – including your flights, hotel, food and drinks – that’s my standout bargain of the lot.

Turkey deal

Supreme Hotel, Marmaris

  • Seven nights
  • All inclusive
  • Return Gatwick flights

From £235pp. BOOK HERE

If you click on a link in this box, we will earn affiliate revenue

Try Kos with the kids for a bargain in the October half term holidays Credit: On The Beach

Fly to Greece on… October 25

If you’ve got kids, you’ll know that October half-term is always difficult.

Once every family in Britain needs roughly the same handful of departure dates, the chances of finding a bargain tend to disappear faster than the good flight times.

But the data did uncover one combination that stood above the rest: seven nights all-inclusive in Kardamena, Kos, departing on October 25.

The average price for a deal here was £740 per person – 13.4% cheaper than comparable half-term holidays and 13.2% below last year.

Kardamena is one of the livelier resorts on the Greek island during summer, but by late October it becomes considerably calmer.

You still have its long beach, waterfront and marina, while Kos Airport is only around a 15-minute drive away.

That short transfer here is a serious half-term advantage too – nobody wants to follow a four-hour flight with a two-hour coach tour of every other family’s hotel.

The weather is the slight gamble, as late October brings warm sunny days, but you might see some businesses closing for the season.

So, this is one where I’d choose a hotel with plenty happening on site.

Lucky for you, the deal I found does exactly that, which is an all-inclusive seven-night stay at Canvas by Mitsis Family Village, for £558pp when travelling on October 25.

It’s built on a hillside overlooking the coast, with pools, waterslides, family entertainment and access to a beach below, and it scores a very impressive 4.4 out of five from almost 2,500 Tripadvisor reviews.

That’s £181.60pp below the average price uncovered by the half-term analysis, and proof that the school-holiday premium can still be beaten if you get the date, duration and destination exactly right.

Greece deal

Canvas by Mitsis Family Villas, Kos

  • Seven nights
  • All inclusive
  • Return Bristol flights

From £235pp. BOOK HERE

If you click on a link in this box, we will earn affiliate revenue



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Jet2 pilot shares one thing he wishes people knew about plane turbulence

Turbulence can be a scary thing, but this is what you need to know

A Jet2 pilot has shared what turbulence is really like – and what he wishes passengers understood about it.

Reassuring people that turbulence is “normal”, Josh urged people to stay calm, and it’s nothing to panic about – a key fact he wishes more people knew. He explained in the airline’s Ask a Pilot blog that there are “a few things that’ll really help” nervous flyers stay calm and enjoy their trip, whether they’re heading on a short-haul hop or a longer flight.

But first, what is turbulence? Experts at the Flight Radar 24 explains: “Turbulence is a common yet complex weather phenomenon that affects aviation.

“Broadly speaking, it refers to irregular air movements that cause erratic changes in the altitude and/or attitude of an aircraft. Let’s take a look at the various types of turbulence, their causes, and some notable incidents they have played a part in.”

I’m scared of flying, what can I do?

Answering the question: “I’m a nervous flyer! Can you give me some tips on how to relax and enjoy the flight?” Josh set out practical ways passengers can feel more in control and less anxious in the air.

Josh explained “understanding that turbulence is completely normal” is the first step in dealing with nerves. Planes are designed and rigorously tested to cope with conditions far more severe than anything you’re likely to encounter on a routine journey.

If you are worried, “let the crew know if you’re feeling nervous. The team at Jet2 are incredibly customer-focused, and if you mention it, they’ll do everything they can to reassure you and make the journey as comfortable as possible. This might even include a cockpit visit on the ground before departure, which can really help build confidence.”

The pilot also recommends keeping yourself occupied with distractions such as music, films, podcasts or a good book. This can really help take your mind off the flight and make the time go faster.

He stressed: “Remember, flying is one of the safest forms of transport, with multiple layers of training, technology and procedures all working together to keep you safe. If you have any questions while onboard, just ask a member of our friendly crew who will gladly help you.”

What are the types of turbulence?

Flight Radar explains the types of turbulence that can range from light to extreme. However, it stresses: “Whilst turbulence can feel unsettling, especially to nervous flyers, it is important to emphasise that severe turbulence events are generally quite rare. Pilots carry out an extensive weather brief before a flight which identifies areas of known turbulence en-route, which are avoided if possible.”

Light Turbulence

Light turbulence causes slight and erratic changes in altitude and attitude of the aircraft. Passengers may feel a light strain against their seat belts. There is little or no difficulty in walking for crew members, and unsecured objects may be slightly displaced.

Moderate Turbulence

Moderate turbulence results in changes in altitude and/or attitude that are more intense than light turbulence but the aircraft remains under control at all times. Passengers feel a more definite strain against their seat belts and unsecured objects are dislodged. Walking becomes difficult for crew members.

Severe Turbulence

Severe turbulence causes large, abrupt changes in altitude and/or attitude, with large variations in airspeed. The aircraft may be momentarily out of control. Passengers are forced violently against their seat belts, and unsecured objects can become airborne. Walking is impossible. Severe turbulence is generally quite rare.

Extreme Turbulence

Extreme turbulence results in the aircraft being tossed about violently, making it practically impossible to control. This category of turbulence may cause structural damage to the aircraft. Severe injuries to passengers and crew are possible if they are not securely fastened. Extreme turbulence is, as named, extremely rare.

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‘I lose all sense of time in the hypnotic flow’: five writers on their favourite British rivers | United Kingdom holidays

Paddleboarding the Esk in North Yorkshire

It’s early afternoon on an unusually hot and sunny Yorkshire day. I’m standing on my paddleboard on the tidal section of the River Esk, near Whitby’s New Bridge, as cars stream across. The 28-mile-long Esk is special, as it is the only major river in Yorkshire that flows directly into the North Sea.

Ahead of me is a bustling marina, the famous abbey and the West and East piers. The town is full to the brim with visitors in search of the best fish and chips, amusement arcades and tales of Dracula and Captain Cook. Later, in the autumn, goths in their finery will parade the cobbled streets.

Here on the river, however, it is tranquil. A salmon leaps from the water to my right, bubbles rise from the seaweed beneath my board, and to my left, the riverbank absorbs abandoned boats into its grassy knolls. On an evening paddle, you might spot the crews from one of the town’s three main rowing clubs (Whitby Coastal, Friendship or Fisherlads).

A few miles inland from Whitby, the Esk passes under the Larpool Viaduct. Photograph: Maciej Olszewski/Alamy

You can launch from the slipway at the far end of the marina back car park near Coates Marine. Arriving by train or bus, it’s a few minutes’ walk from the station. Launch about one and a half hours before high tide and head right towards the New Bridge and Ruswarp. Be mindful, this section of the river is tidal and water levels do drop.

After taking in the magnificent view, I turn and paddle towards Ruswarp, a couple of miles inland, passing under the Larpool Viaduct, which carries the 22-mile Cinder Track. Branches of willow trees droop elegantly into the water offering welcome shade. Swans glide past and Highland cattle graze nonchalantly in the fields. A couple hike the path that runs alongside the river.

I first paddled on the Esk with my young sons in 2006. Twenty years later, it still remains a peaceful, hidden gem. We hired kayaks from Ruswarp Pleasure Boats (established 1874) just above the weir, which also rents rowing boats and now paddleboards. For a £5 fee, it offers a private jetty to launch your own craft, which is ideal as access to the river is very limited along this stretch. There is free parking on the roadside here, and with the number 95 bus stop (Arriva) nearby, public transport is an option. Paddle up to Perry’s Plants garden centre at Briggswath just before Sleights and then turn back.

You’ll pass the Waterside restaurant and Whitby Wellbeing’s wild sauna along the way, so family and friends can eat, sweat or dip while you float along, letting the river carry your worries away. Afterwards, nip to Botham’s in Sleights for some Resolution tea and lovely iced lemon buns. I promise, it’ll be a grand paddleboarding day out in Yorkshire.
Jo Moseley is the author of Stand-Up Paddleboarding in Great Britain

Wild camping on the Dart in Devon

Sian Lewis wild camping next to the River Dart. Photograph: Sian Lewis

On the uplands of Dartmoor, two tributaries – the East Dart and West Dart – join beneath ancient woodland at the well-named hamlet of Dartmeet. They entwine as the River Dart, which flows for 47 miles from open moor into steep wooded valleys and passes peat bogs and tors, oak forest, market towns and rolling pasture before it runs into the sheltered waters of the south Devon coast.

Its upper reaches retain a pristine wildness that feels increasingly rare in southern England. The Dartmoor national park is criss-crossed by some of the cleanest bodies of water in the country, home to salmon, sea trout and otters, while the wooded valleys below are rich remnants of ancient temperate rainforest.

The Dart’s name is thought to derive from an old Celtic word meaning “river where oak trees grow”, and the lower banks are indeed lined with native oak trees, thick with mosses and ferns. It may be one of Britain’s smaller protected landscapes, but Dartmoor feels remarkably untamed. You can cross it on foot in a few days, yet it’s surprisingly easy to lose yourself in the rolling mists, twisting woodlands and miles of open moorland of this ethereal landscape.

The River Dart runs past tors in the Dartmoor national park. Photograph: Maciej Olszewski/Alamy

It’s that sense of freedom that keeps drawing me back. I love nothing more than stuffing a tent into my rucksack and heading out on foot for a riverside camp, following the Dart and its web of streams and creeks until I find a quiet bend or grassy bank for the night. I fall asleep to the steady rush and rumble of the water and wake up early for a swim in one of its deep, crystal-clear pools before packing up and walking on.

I can roam about like this because Dartmoor is the only place in England where wild camping is legally permitted. In the national park, “backpack”, or wild camping, is allowed for one or two nights in some areas, provided you stay away from roads and settlements and leave no trace of your visit.

Sometimes, I have company on the riverbanks. I’ve huddled in bivouac bags with friends and woken totally covered in sparkling droplets of dew. I’ve camped on the water’s edge and woken in the middle of the night to what sounded like an invading army around my tent. It turned out to be a troop of scouts, arriving spectacularly late at their campsite and gamely pitching flimsy-looking tents by the light of their headlamps. And once, at dusk, I think I glimpsed the sleek head of an otter slipping into the current. But more often than not, once evening falls and I sit by the door of my tent watching the water darken, I have the Dart all to myself.
Sian Lewis

Fishing on the Dove in the Peak District

Andy Pietrasik considers his tactics beside the Dove. Photograph: Andy Pietrasik

There’s a trout rising upstream from where I am standing on the bank of the River Dove in Beresford Dale, on the border of Staffordshire and Derbyshire. I mark the spot – just beyond that overhanging tree branch – and rue the fact that it will make casting a fly without getting snagged tricky. I need to get into the river and wade over to the other bank for a clear shot. But it’s a steep drop to the water and the pools look deep in this stretch; deep enough to go over my chest waders. I walk back downstream to a spot where I can safely enter the fast-flowing river, but realise it’s going to be a long wade upstream. Too long and splashy, which will disturb any fish and scatter them. So, I get out again and walk back to where I first spotted the feeding trout. I am caught in indecision, and repeat this pattern several times before giving up on this particular quarry.

The meander at this section of the river has formed a little peninsula, and standing in the middle of it is a fishing hut, where I go to drink a coffee and consider my tactics. This isn’t any old fishing hut, however. This one is a substantial structure, built from stone, with pillars framing the door and with an inscription in Latin, “Piscatoribus Sacrum” (Sacred to all Fishermen).

The ‘little fishing house’ constructed on a peninsula in the Dove by the poet Charles Cotton. Photograph: Andy Pietrasik

In the lintel stone is a cypher of intertwined letters: CC and IW, for Charles Cotton, the poet who built this “little fishing house” on his estate in 1674, and Izaak Walton, who wrote The Compleat Angler in 1653. Cotton added “Instructions how to angle for a trout or grayling in a clear stream” to accompany the fifth edition of Walton’s book, considered to be the first technical manual of fly-fishing and one of the most reprinted books in the English language.

The River Dove is the spiritual home of fly-fishing because of Walton and Cotton, and it still holds a mythical place in fishers’ minds. As someone who grew up on the Staffordshire-Derbyshire border, and fished the Dove where it joins the River Trent at Newton Solney in my youth, I was well aware of the river’s special status. But, at that age, I wasn’t about to give myself the extra homework of reading a 17th-century treatise on fishing and nature. Instead, an English teacher who fished furnished me with the only line I needed to know: “you will find it one of the purest crystalline streams you have seen.”

The stretch of the Dove I’m fishing – called the Temple beat after Cotton’s fishing house – races and tumbles through a narrow tree-lined dale hemmed in by limestone crags. Near the bridge above a section known as the Pike Pool, a family is splashing and paddling in the early summer sunshine. There’s a popular 4-mile loop that starts at Hartington village, and the path is too busy with walkers to fish, so I enter the river at the bridge and wade and fish “the vale it winds through like a snake” until I spot the rising trout and stop for my coffee break.

Later that day, I lose all sense of time in the hypnotic flow of catching and releasing a series of small wild brown trout. Just beyond the fishing house, someone has carved a large hole into the base of a dead oak tree, the perfect place to sit and watch dippers skit along the banks and damselflies dance upon the surface. A little further on, a large Hereford cow is drinking from the river, framed by overhanging trees and with a verdant conical hill in the background. The scene strikes me as being a pastoral masterpiece, much like The Compleat Angler.
Andy Pietrasik

A day ticket on the Temple beat can be booked through Fishing Breaks from £65

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Sourcing the Severn and Wye in mid-Wales

Kevin Rushby and Stevie: the Severn gets a finer ‘start in life’ than the Wye. Photograph: Kevin Rushby

It will prove to be the best of hikes, and in some ways the worst. I start out early from Eisteddfa Gurig on the A44, hoping to get going while the day is cool. My plan is to visit the sources of two of Britain’s greatest rivers – the Severn and the Wye which, by a fluke of geography, lie a couple of miles apart on a mountain ridge in mid-Wales.

The path leads me up Pumlumon Fawr, a 752-metre (2,467ft) massif with magnificent views to the Irish Sea. The day is scorching hot and the bald sheep-nipped hills look only an inch of topsoil away from becoming a desert. Of the two rivers, the Severn gets the finer start in life. There is a marker post next to a deep, dark pool of water that is being squeezed from the bog. In ancient times, humans worshipped springs, but there are no garlands here, only a few sea shells carried upstream by hikers from the Bristol Channel on the 224-mile (360km) Severn Way.

A short walk downstream brings me into a deep valley where the Severn, already gathering force, bounces through ferny glades. It feels as if someone is caring for this river, determined to give it a good start in life. There is a useful car park further down the valley, but I cut away through the forest to find the origin of its twin, the Wye.

I have hopes of a dip in a mountain pool, but there are misgivings. Arguably the loveliest river in Britain, the Wye has been hitting headlines for a severe decline in water quality. Dead salmon have been found, algal blooms reported. Campaigners, however, have scored a major victory in creating a charter of rights, including the right to flow and be free of pollution. Significant authorities, including Powys and Herefordshire, have adopted it. There is hope.

A footbridge over the River Severn in Hafren forest, close to the river’s source. Photograph: Maddie Red/Alamy

The first omen is the defunct Nant Iago lead mine, a reminder that human impact on the environment is nothing new. Government statistics show that about 900 miles (1,500km) of our rivers and estuaries are still contaminated by 19th-century mines. I skirt around the old workings and walk up the valley. In the wrinkles of this hillside, the Wye has a moorland birth, a harsh ordeal. No sooner has the clean, bright water started out than it’s being crapped in by sheep and messed about by humans. Any thought of a dip in a pool, or even a sip from the source, is brutally quashed.

The moorland/forested contrast with the Severn is not unplanned: scientists have been controlling and assessing these non-identical twins since a time when flood risks and algal blooms were not issues. Whatever their conclusions, however, our expectations of rivers remain pitifully low. In 17th-century Britain, by contrast, salmon were so plentifully available for people to fish for themselves that there was little market for them.

I carry on down the Wye Valley Walk, a 136-mile route whose leaping salmon logo is looking sadly inappropriate. After a few miles, I turn west up a side stream that has a toxic reddish tint. Only a Martian would take a dip. This has become a grim trudge, but finally, up a side valley, I stumble on deep pools alive with tiny frogs. Spruce and pine have been planted. There are orchids and bog asphodels. Then, a magnificent golden-ringed dragonfly settles next to me. My spirits are restored. Maybe the Wye can bounce back. I set off for nearby Llangurig where there’s a pub, the Bluebell Inn, and a tearoom.
Kevin Rushby

Canoeing the Tay in Perthshire

Ailsa Sheldon and her teenage son canoe the Tay.

The Tay is Scotland’s longest river (117 miles) and Britain’s mightiest, discharging more water than the longer Thames and Severn combined. Rising on the slopes of Ben Lui in Argyll, gathering strength from Highland burns before widening through Perthshire and eventually reaching the North Sea at Dundee.

It’s the middle stretch, from Killin to Dunkeld through Highland Perthshire, that I love best. At Killin, we’ve happily lost whole afternoons to picking wild raspberries, skimming stones and climbing trees. My boys climbed their first Munro here, Ben Lawers, when their legs were much shorter. We should have had beautiful loch views from the top, but reached the summit in cloud instead. They loved it.

Further along the banks at Lawers and Kenmore is where my sisters and I head for restorative escapes: alternating freezing loch swims with a hot tub has become our preferred form of therapy.

I’ve often walked by the river, but was curious to see it from a different angle: by canoe. Aberfeldy is a two-hour drive north from Edinburgh, so it’s an early start for me and my son Louis, 15. We’re welcomed at Beyond Adventure with coffee and a briefing, then transferred upriver with two long orange canoes and our instructor, Kevin Meldrum.

Our route begins on the River Lyon just before its confluence with the Tay. In this calm eddy, we get a quick lesson in paddling and turning the boat. Louis is 6ft-plus and I am not, which seemed a recipe for paddling in circles. Kevin keeps us right, and Louis soon learns to calmly counteract any erratic paddling on my side. We meet the Tay over a gentle rapid and begin paddling downstream. We settle into the river’s rhythm, learning to read the current and steer around camouflaged anglers patiently waiting for salmon, and spotting herons standing guard in the shadows.

Kingfishers can sometimes be spotted on the banks of the Tay. Photograph: Alex Cooper/Alamy

The banks of the Tay are changing, thanks to the returning beaver population. We don’t spot any (they emerge at dusk), but we do see evidence of stripped bark and felled trees by the river. Paddling into a tree-lined eddy, we admire a carefully constructed beaver lodge.

We pull the canoes ashore on a little island for a picnic lunch, and as we eat our sandwiches, there’s a flash of iridescent turquoise. My first ever sighting of a kingfisher.

It’s great to be on the water with a guide who knows the river so well. At each stretch of rapids, we’re set a route, and navigate each one facing downstream, still smiling. As we return to Aberfeldy, we paddle under General Wade’s Bridge, unchanged since it was built in 1733. We’ve been on the water for three hours, but it feels all too soon when we approach the Beyond Adventure base. Reluctant to leave, we find a deep, peaty pool for a swim.

Heading home, we stop for a pizza (a teenage second lunch) and cold drinks at The Taybank in Dunkeld. Watching the Tay flow past the beer garden, I realise the river looks different to me now. Once you’ve travelled with it, it’s hard not to wonder what’s waiting around the next bend.
Ailsa Sheldon
Beyond Adventure offers half-day discovery canoeing tours from £63 adults, £47.25 children, £199.50 for a family (two adults, two children)

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Mauritius’ north coast is a winner for R&R, whether you’re with the girls or the kids

Collage of a Mauritius resort with an infinity pool, beachfront hotel, and outdoor dining area.

The Westin Turtle Bay Resort & Spa

The main pool, which is so huge there’s ample room for both water aerobics classes and family ball games Credit: ©Jiri Lizler

Lifestyle Editor Catherine Bennion-Pedley and her family found a knockout pool and fab food in the north-west.

SITTING among the fragrant herbs and lush veg of the Chef’s Garden, our lunch table is laden with local produce.

To get a real taste of a country, you can’t beat a cooking class, and this one, £40 per person, is a proper treat.

Chef Vishal helps us to whip up an array of seasonal, plant-based dishes, chargrilling aubergine and throwing together tantalising salads, including one using okra.

Even our kids, Poppy, seven, and Raffy, five, are tucking in, despite usually removing any sign of a green leaf from their plate.

As his final winning move, Vishal gets us to caramelise bananas for pud, using rich brown sugar from the isle and a portable stove top.

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The Westin prides itself on its wellness offerings, and is certainly nailing its Eat Well pillar.

There are five restaurants – our favourite is Fusion, serving up Japanese cuisine, including mouth-watering sushi we all devour.

Indian offering Kangan also makes for a memorable meal with highlights such as crispy lentil and rice dumplings with mint chutney and a taste explosion of a Goan fish curry.

Meanwhile, Seasonal Tastes’ buffet is brimming with choices, often with live musicians performing, too.

We spend most of our days at the main pool, which is so huge there’s ample room for both water aerobics classes and family ball games, plus there’s a giant poolside chessboard.

Dine with the sand between your toes Credit: Jiri Lizler.
Cocktails and mocktails are both a win here Credit: Supplied by PR

While there are undoubtedly resorts with more impressive beaches on the island – volcanic rock outcrops dot the coves here – on the largest stretch we make use of the free kayaks, plus we spot plenty of sea creatures while rockpooling.

Well worth a trip out is our visit to L’Aventure du Sucre, set in an historic sugar factory a 15-minute drive away.

We take a walk through the island’s fascinating history, from the Dutch settlement here in the 17th century right up to the current day, and learn about the importance of both the indigo and sugarcane crops.

The kids follow a quiz trail – a tube of sugar is the prize at the end – and we all dig in at the jam and sugar tasting stations.

Then, after sampling rums, we splurge on a bottle of Lazy Dodo, £26, and lychee jam, £6, as mementoes. Adult entry costs £19, kids over six cost £9.50 (Aventuredusucre.com).

Back at the hotel’s Heavenly Spa, nestled within tropical gardens, I feel much more flexible after a 60-minute signature massage, £80, and later, husband Andy joins therapist Selvi for a private yoga class on the jetty with just the sound of waves lapping beneath them, £56.

An hour later, he returns more serene than I’ve seen him in months. No wonder we meet so many returning guests – and one tips us off about a fire show on the beach that evening.

The spectacular tricks performed to an atmospheric soundtrack leave us in awe. A bit like Mauritius itself.

British Airways Holidays offers a seven-night family stay at five-star The Westin Turtle Bay Resort & Spa from £4,439 half-board, with flights (Ba.com/mauritius).

Veranda Paul et Virginie Hotel & Spa

Relax on the pristine sands and ombre water of the idyllic Grand Gaube Lagoon Credit: Supplied by PR

Assistant Editor Kelly Allen and friends checked into an adults-only gem on the island’s north-east coast.

LOOKING out from the hotel’s scenic Poudre d’Or bar with its views of the infinity pool and, further out, the pristine sands and ombre water of the idyllic Grand Gaube Lagoon, it takes no time for the stresses of life to dissipate with a welcome rum punch in hand.

This place has just 81 rooms, so it feels intimate and is particularly popular with couples.

There’s a standard buffet with an excellent tropical fruit selection at the Isle de France eatery, but it’s à la carte restaurant Le Saint Géran, sitting at the end of the pier, that really wows.

One night, we tuck into a feast of Mauritian-style cod with satini pomme de terre, a local delicacy.

It’s essentially “potato chutney” of mashed potato, crispy fried red onions, dried red chillies, garlic and oil.

It goes without saying that I also have to leave room for the impressive smoky banana flambé.

The activities schedule is packed, too, with seafront sega classes – the traditional dance of the island – as well as rum mixing and Creole cookery classes.

There are just 81 rooms, so it feels intimate and is particularly popular with couples Credit: Supplied by PR
Learn how to make farata (Mauritian roti) from scratch Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Learning to make farata (Mauritian roti) from scratch using plain flour, salt and a splash of oil is so easy I’m convinced I’ll be recreating it at home.

It’s also ideal for soaking up the plethora of cocktails on offer, including a top-notch dark & stormy, before I retreat for a nap back at my room, which is rustic with a quaint thatched roof that feels like something from a different time.

One morning, we leave the serenity of our sunloungers to visit the Pamplemousses district, 20 minutes’ drive away, where we wander through Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens.

As well as an array of tropical plants, including giant lily pads, white lotuses and a medicinal spice garden, there is so much wildlife to spot, from fruit bats to deer, but my favourites are the giant tortoises.

Entry costs £4.75 per adult (Ssrbg.govmu.org).

Grand Baie, a famously lively area of restaurants and bars, is also nearby, and I pick up souvenirs of a cute shell hair clip and a bracelet in the bustling Bazar de Grand Baie.

As they say in Creole, for a dose of sun and plenty of rum, this place is ”bon bagay” – great stuff!

Stays for two at Veranda Paul Et Virginie Hotel & Spa cost from £243 per night all-inclusive (Veranda-resorts.com).

Return flights from the UK to Mauritius cost from £575.

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Toddler gets flight canceled forcing furious passengers to disembark and spend NIGHT in airport

An image collage containing 2 images, Image 1 shows A single mother and a baby is watching video, Image 2 shows Airplanes Depart From Toronto Pearson International Airport In Mississauga, Ontario, On February 26, 2026

A TODDLER’S antics got a flight canceled as air crews aborted takeoff due to unsafe cabin conditions.

The shocking incident grounded Porter Airlines flight PD444 that was departing Victoria International Airport in British Columbia on Thursday.

Airplanes Depart From Toronto Pearson International Airport In Mississauga, Ontario, On February 26, 2026.
A Porter Airlines flight was canceled by a toddler’s unruly antics (stock) Credit: Getty
A single mother and a baby is watching video
The child had been standing on their seat and refused to put on a seat belt, forcing the aircraft to return to the terminal (stock) Credit: Getty

Furious passengers were forced to get off the aircraft and wait overnight for a new flight.

The airline revealed that as the plane was leaving the terminal and was heading for the runway when cabin crew noticed the child “standing in their seat” refusing to “secure their seat belt,” Porter Airlines told PEOPLE.

“The aircraft could not takeoff in this unsafe condition, so the crew elected to return to the terminal and have the passengers disembark.”

Numerous attempts had been made by the crew and the child’s parents to get them to co-operate but these all failed.

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The toddler’s unruly antics triggered major schedule delays to the point where the airport runway had closed by the time they looked at rescheduling the departure.

After the plane returned to the terminal, passengers got off with their baggage, and flight planes were refiled, it was gone 12:30am and all passengers and crew had to wait overnight for a new flight.

Porter Airlines issued a grovelling apology to everyone affected by the child’s behavior.

The flight eventually took off for Toronto on Friday at 10:49 pm and arrived at its destination at 6:16 am Saturday morning, delaying passengers by a whole day.

Under the airline’s policy, child safety seats or a restraint device is mandatory for any child under two years old occupying a seat.

The family involved have not publicly been identified.

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All the REALLY easy ways to get free & cheap theme park and attraction tickets across the UK

A FAMILY day out can easily set you back over £100 for a family of four.

And with it being the summer holidays, just a few days out can quickly add up to the cost of a holiday abroad.

Many of the different offers include tickets to theme parks Credit: Handout
If you travel by train, you can get 2-for-1 or discounted tickets to UK attractions Credit: Alamy

Instead of watching your wallet empty of cash, there are actually a number of ways to get free and cheap attraction tickets.

Here’s our round-up of the best options and what days out you can get for less:

Sun Club promotions

As a Sun Club member, you have access to loads of free and discounted days out across the UK.

Currently, these include free tickets to the races, 50% off Horrible Histories Live, savings on theatre tickets and 2-for-1 tickets to Diggerland theme parks.

Find out more about what’s on offer here.

LatestFreeStuff.co.uk

LatestFreeStuff.co.uk always has different offers on attractions.

Some you might need to snap up quick, while others might have more availability.

Current offers on the website include a free National Trust pass and free bike hire.

Previous offers have included free Eden Project tickets as well as discounts on major UK attractions.

Promotional supermarket packs

If you are in the supermarket, look out for promotional packs.

On items such as Cadbury‘s multi-packs, Kellogg’s cereal, Heinz products, Carex soap and Robinsons squash, you’ll often find offers to attractions in the UK.

For example, Kellogg’s cereal boxes often have 25 per cent off online advance entry tickets for up to two people to Merlin attractions including the London Eye and Legoland.

Cadbury’s, on the other hand, often has instant 2-for-1 vouchers for top UK attractions.

National Rail

If you are heading out on a day out, taking the train could save you both hassle and money, because National Rail offers 2-for-1 deals, a third off savings, and other discounts for attractions when you travel via train.

Attractions include 2-for-1 tickets on City Cruises, 20 per cent off Frameless and 50 per cent off Thinktank at the Birmingham Science Museum.

Tesco Clubcard

Tesco Clubcard members can convert their Clubcard points into Reward Partner vouchers.

These vouchers cover major UK theme parks including Alton Towers and Thorpe Park as well as English Heritage sites and a number of museums.

Octopus Energy

If you are an Octopus customer and are signed up to Octoplus, you can redeem your points for a free National Trust pass.

02 Priority

If you happen to be an O2 customer, make sure you have the O2 Priority app as it is full of offers and giveaways.

Currently through the app, you can get discounted tickets to Grease: The Immersive Movie Musical, free kids tickets to Jurassic Oceans at the Natural History Museum (with one adult ticket) and 20 per cent off tickets to Up at The O2.

With MoneySuperMarket, you can get a free attraction pass worth £180 which includes English Heritage sites Credit: Alamy
Also included in the pass are fun family activities such as as Go Ape Credit: Alamy

MoneySuperMarket

If you sign up to a MoneySuperMarket account and allow it to check your credit score, you can get a free days out annual pass worth £180.

The pass includes top attractions such as London Zoo, English Heritage Sites and Go Ape parks – you can redeem one ticket each time you visit an attraction, per account.

Vodafone

Via Vodafone‘s VeryMe Rewards, you can get a Kids Pass which offers between 10 and 56 per cent off entry to attractions across the UK, including Alton Towers and Go Ape.

To get this reward, you’ll need to be a Vodafone Pay Monthly mobile customer or a qualifying Pay As You Go customer.

Vitality Health Insurance

If you get moving, Vitality Health Insurance will reward you with discounts to top Merlin attractions, such as Thorpe Park and Alton Towers.

You are able to redeem four tickets at 30 per cent off each month.

Welcome Break

Welcome Break operates 31 hotels across the UK’s motorway network – such as Days Inn and Ramada hotels – making them ideal stops to split up a journey.

But more than just the hotels, Welcome Break has 62 service stations across the country.

If you stop off at one or stay in one of the hotels, make sure to set up an account when you use their Wi-Fi as you’ll get Road Trip Rewards.

Each time you log in to the Wi-Fi at either a hotel or service station, you’ll gain a point.

These points then go towards entering you into different prize draws.

For every three visits, you’ll go into a draw to bag a Merlin attraction discount, for every five visits a £50 Welcome Break voucher, and with 10 visits a Merlin Gold Pass. For every 15 or more visits, you’ll get a chance to win a family weekend away.

Lots of the different schemes can also get you cheaper tickets to the Eden Project Credit: Alamy
Alton Towers is also available on many discount schemes Credit: Alton Towers

Blue Light Discount

If you work in the NHS, emergency services, or armed forces, you can get a Blue Light Membership, costing £4.99 for two years (so just under £2.50 a year).

This membership can then get you loads of discounts on days out and attractions, including 15 per cent off entry to Alton Towers, 20 per cent off English Heritage sites, and 10 per cent off Eden Project tickets.

There are loads of attractions with discounts as part of the membership, including local and regional attractions.

National Lottery Week

In March each year, the National Lottery hosts The National Lottery Open Week, with loads of free or low-cost days out.

These include castles, museums, sports venues, galleries and theatres across the UK.

Local resident/postcode discounts

It is worth looking up which attractions are in your area, and whether they offer discounted entry for you as a local.

For example, The Eden Project offers a discounted Cornish Residents Pass.

Similarly, Kew Gardens offers a reduced entry fee for local residents and young people, and Tower Bridge offers £1 entry to Southwark residents.

The best way to find this out is to search ‘attractions near me with resident offer’ online, and Google should pick up your location and find the attractions near you providing a discount.

Kew Gardens offers a discount for locals Credit: Reuters
You can get cheap tickets to events and activities through Groupon and Wowcher too Credit: Ninja Warrior UK

Groupon and Wowcher

Groupon and Wowcher are both great sites for getting cheaper days out for the family.

You can search for things near you to do, and depending on your location, these can include things like the Ninja Warrior UK experience, bus tours and circus shows.

Some current offers on Groupon include a session at The Snow Centre Hemel Hempstead for £20.49 instead of £37 per person.

Or with Wowcher, you could head to the UK’s biggest inflatable obstacle course for £20, instead of £27.82 per person.

Universal Credit

Lots of UK attractions will offer heavily discounted tickets – usually £1 or £2 each – for people and families receiving Universal Credit.

For example, you could head to Royal Palaces such as Hampton Court Palace and Kensington Palace for just £1.

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Inside the biggest Legoland in the WORLD with 75 attractions, huge rollercoasters and AI robot hotel

THE biggest Legoland in the world has just celebrated its first birthday – and its MUCH bigger than the one in the UK.

The park in Shanghai is a whopping 318,000 square metres and it’s home to largest Lego figurine in the world.

Legoland in Shanghai is the biggest of its kind in the world Credit: Merlin Entertainments
It has unique attractions like the world-first water-town boat tour Credit: Alamy

Legoland Shanghai Resort is the only one in the country and in its first year of opening, saw two million visitors through its doors.

Aimed at families with children between 2-12 years old, the park has immersive experiences, eight themed zones and a Lego-themed hotel.

Legoland Shanghai makes an impression before visitors even enter the park thanks to its enormous Lego figure called Dada.

The figure is 26 metres tall and holds the record for the largest ever built.

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It sets the tone for the theme park which has 75 attractions overall.

They are set in amongst the eight lands: Brick Street, Bricktopia, Legoland Creative World, Lego City, Lego Ninjago, Lego Friends, Lego Castle, and Lego Monkie Kid.

Rides vary but the biggest and longest rollercoaster at Legoland Shanghai is the Big Lego Coaster.

The ride actually passes through the hands of the Dada figurine and has a top speed of 52.8mph.

One unique experience the world-first water-town boat tour, which takes them on a cruise through a Chinese water town built entirely from Lego bricks.

Another first for the brand at this resort is Legoland Creative World – which allows visitors to see the largest Lego Minifigure in history.

The park in Shanghai is a whopping 318,000 square metres with big rollercoasters Credit: VCG via Getty Images

There are also a number of live shows at Brick Street and Bricktopia.

Another attraction is a jet-ski based Water Race Challenge, there’s also boat building competitions and a ‘Beach Party’.

In the Lego Castle land, guests are transported into a magical land with wizards and dragons.

Fans of the UK’s Legoland in Windsor will be familiar with the driving school where kids can complete a circuit in their very own car and get their driving licence.

If any visitors need help, they can communicate with the world’s first AI Brick Girl Minifigure that helps visitors explore the Creative World.

And amongst all the rides and models, guests can also interact with robotic minifigures.

Guests can talk to them and according to Blooloop, they ‘respond to you in real time’.

That’s not the only part that has it’s very own AI robot – there are more at the 250-room hotel.

The Dada figurine at the entrance is the biggest of its kind in the world Credit: Getty
The Legoland Hotel has 250-rooms and its very own AI robot Credit: EPA

Called Little O, the fully interactive astronaut-themed robot talks to guests, welcomes them at check-in, shares facts and performs dances.

Inside the hotel are themed rooms like Monkie Kid and Ninjago with character meet-ups and even pyjama dance parties.

When it’s time to eat, the park has six restaurants, for example, Bricks Restaurant offers Lego-themed dining from Brick House Burgers with buns in the shape of Lego bricks, Brick fries and Apple Fries with ice cream.

Of course, there are souvenirs are everywhere, visitors can build their own Minifigures, engrave their own bricks and buy Lego sets.

As for tickets, Legoland Shanghai offers day passes from ¥300 (£33.33) and has offers like half-price one-day child ticket from ¥175 (£19.44).



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Why NOW is the best time to visit the new Epic Universe theme park land

FROM the moment our family of five was picked up in a giant car that would not fit on a typical UK street, I knew the saying was true.

Everything really is bigger in America.

Everything is bigger in America especially the theme parks in Universal Orlando Credit: Alamy
The Jurassic Park VelociCoaster at Islands of Adventure was one of the highlights of the trip Credit: Supplied

We had just arrived for an action-packed week of thrills at Universal Orlando Resort, known for its record-breaking rides that are both bigger and better than many in the world.

We’d chosen Universal’s own Loews Portofino Bay Hotel as our base.

It is geared up for the theme parks, with regular free coaches to Epic Universe and Volcano Bay and free water taxis running to Universal’s CityWalk shopping and entertainment complex every 15 minutes.

Stays also include early entry to the parks and free Express Passes for Universal Studios and Islands of Adventure (a huge perk) — although you have to buy your park tickets separately.

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Epic Universe, Universal’s newest park, only opened last year and has already gained a huge fan base.

Now that the hype has died down a little, it is a great time to visit Epic.

For us the queues were pretty manageable everywhere except for Super Nintendo World, a colourful and energetic land inspired by Super Mario and his pals.

My advice is to arrive early and head straight to get your fill of Mario, and then enjoy the rest of the park at your leisure.

Head straight to Super Nintendo World at Epic Universe early in the day to beat the queues Credit: EPA
Epic’s twin-coaster Stardust Racers is one of the best at the resort and has quick queue times Credit: Alamy

To put this into perspective, queues for the Mine-Cart Madness ride can reach three hours, but it took us just 25 minutes.

Elsewhere, queues for The Stardust Racers rollercoaster, one of the most intense thrill rides in Orlando, were never more than ten minutes during our May break.

And Monsters Unchained: Frankenstein Experiment, one of the most brilliantly-executed themed rides I’ve ever been on, has some of the shortest queues.

Epic Universe is just one of four Florida theme parks under Universal’s umbrella and you’d be mad not to explore the others.

We spent most of our time at Universal Studios park and the Islands of Adventure, which is so vast we were still discovering new rides on our final day.

The most popular ride is Hagrid’s Magical Creatures Motorbike Adventure, the ride that everybody rushes to from the moment the gates open.

There is some controversy here as Universal stopped accepting Express Passes on this ride from July 1.

The decision was made in hope that it would bring the two-hour queue time down.

Dan and son enjoyed The Incredible Hulk Coaster during the full-on trip to Florida Credit: Supplied
Hagrid’s Magical Creatures Motorbike Adventure is the only ride to no longer accept Express Passes Credit: Supplied

While Hagrid’s heart-pumping attraction is certainly worth the long wait, Jurassic Park VelociCoaster was our favourite of the trip.

It reaches top speeds of 70mph and features the most insane turns that had us wobbling on our feet afterwards.

All those thrills require some down time, though. Luckily the parks are a delight to simply stroll around.

Universal Studios, in particular, will keep you mesmerised for hours, with highly-themed areas inspired by the streets of New York, San Francisco, Hollywood . . . and Springfield, home of the Simpsons.

Make sure to pop into Moe’s Tavern for a pint of Duff Beer.

If you aren’t staying at Loews Portofino Bay Hotel, it’s probably worth forking out for an Express Pass — especially for those visiting for only a short period of time or during peak seasons such as the summer or school holidays.

Ours saved us buckets of time, allowing us to tackle more rides per day.

Express Pass holders won’t have to faff around with ticket scanners either. Many rides have been fitted with facial recognition technology now, which speeds up access at the turnstiles. It was an impressive touch that should become industry standard.

But that’s not where Universal Orlando Resort’s improvements end.

A brand new Fast & Furious rollercoaster is being built riverside, aiming to open in 2027, with construction work already under way.

It will be located next to our two favourite restaurants from the trip, the Hard Rock Cafe and the Chocolate Emporium, both of which serve delicious burgers.

The giant stack of ribs piled high in front of me at the Hard Rock reaffirmed my thoughts from the start of the trip.

Everything is bigger in America. And not just the cars and the food — but now the grin on my face.

GO: Universal Orlando

GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ room-only at the 5H Loews Portofino Bay Hotel is from £1,675pp based on two sharing and including flights from Gatwick on September 6. See onthebeach.co.uk.

TICKETS: A Universal Orlando All Parks ticket costs from £479 per adult and £470 per child for August 2026 arrivals.

Includes 14 days unlimited admission to Universal Studios Florida, Universal Islands of Adventure, Universal Epic Universe and Universal Volcano Bay. See attractiontickets.com or call 0800 223 0324.

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I tried the unique new camping trend where you put your tent on the roof of your car

I HAVE never really been one for camping.

The thought of huddling around a dimming campfire with a cold drizzle hanging in the air would normally fill me with dread.

The Jurassic Coastline, which stretches from Dorset to Devon Credit: Getty
Alice Penwill tries out the TentBox, which managed to change her mind about camping trips Credit: Supplied

But that’s before I discovered TentBox.

After a weekend away in Dorset, this little gadget changed my mind on camping entirely . . .  and I had the time of my life.

Unlike other tents, TentBox – which attaches to the roof of your car, positioning you high above the ground — adds a certain sophistication to the outdoorsy experience.

We didn’t have to carefully peg it down, nor spend the best part of our evening inflating a mattress.

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And instead of wasting hours faffing with poles, this shortened our camping set-up time to less than ten minutes.

Although, a word of warning, if you’re not very tall (like me), be prepared for it to take a little longer as you struggle to reach the roof of your car.

Luckily, you don’t need to be a camping pro either.

The hardest part of the set-up is firmly securing the box to your car roof — you will need roof bars for that and can check your car’s compatibility easily online (there are certain weight limits on smaller cars).

Once that is out of the way, all you need to do is unzip the sides, pull down the ladder, and pop the tent up.

Simple, right? Once you have clambered inside, you will find a comfy foam mattress, enough space for two to four people (depending on the TentBox model) and even skylights, so on a clear night you can stargaze in your PJs.

The highlight for me, however, was being able to avoid invading creepy crawlies thanks to our rooftop perch.

With the TentBox fitted, we made our way to Sweet Hill Farm, which cost us just £13pp per night — much less than a Dorset hotel room — and it came with much better views, too.

Once you have clambered inside, you will find a comfy foam mattress with enough space for two to four people Credit: Supplied
Enjoy beach time at Boscombe Credit: Getty

At the very tip of the Isle of Portland peninsula, Sweet Hill Farm is strictly a no-frills spot, made up of just four fields with basic compost toilets, cold water taps and hot showers that cost £1 for three minutes of water.

But for non-campers like me, you can still get a flavour of luxury.

A short walk away from the pitches is a wellness area, home to an icy cold plunge bath and a converted horsebox sauna, which costs £15 for an hour and a half session. Well worth it.

There is an on-site cafe, too, surrounded by picnic tables. It’s great for when you are too lazy to spark up the campfire or need your morning coffee and bacon sarnie.

If you are up to campfire cooking, Kitchenbox does excellent camping sets that come with a stove, saucepan, chopping board, dishes, cutlery and a windbreak.

Scrambled egg and ham baguettes became our easy go-to.

When the weather took an unfortunate turn, we were packed up and heading towards a sunnier patch in minutes.

Chesil Beach, which connects Portland to the mainland, is a great spot for views — and it stretches for 18 miles.

The stunning views at Portland Bill Credit: Getty

While it is stoney and not the ideal sunbathing spot, the sights of the Jurassic Coast on a bright day are incredible and sweep across the white cliffs to the steep hills of Portland.

Head to nearby Cove House Inn for hearty grub. This 18th-century pub sits right on Chesil Beach’s esplanade and has been on my radar for a while, after it made the Big 7 Travel list of the 25 best spots for a seaside pint last year.

For classic seaside fun, Weymouth is less than a 20-minute ride down the coast from here.

Then you can make your way over to Durdle Door, or Boscombe and then Bournemouth, if you fancy.

Thanks to sweltering heat, the stretching golden sands of Bournemouth Beach were calling.

By this point, we had saved so much cash by ditching expensive beachside hotel rooms that we were able to treat ourselves to an Aperol Spritz and a cold beer on Bournemouth Pier.

It was an ideal way to toast to an adventure-filled weekend. Perhaps one of many camping adventures to come . . . 

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The epic Greek-Turkey cruise with swimming turtles, Broadway shows and Thai massages

Collage of a bay with boats, people riding Segways, a man by a cruise ship, and a sea turtle.

ALEXANDER the Great would have approved – I’m on my trusty black steed conquering the streets of his rival Athens under the watchful eye of the Parthenon.

It’s a whizzy Segway, not the all- conquering king of ancient Macedonia’s fabled warhorse Bucephalus, but what a brilliant way to see historic and modern sights in the Greek capital.

Unwind with beautiful scenery from the terrace at Atlantica Grand Mediterraneo, in Corfu Credit: Supplied
Nigel Thompson on a Segway tour Credit: Supplied

Lively guide Stelios led my group of a dozen — all on an excursion from Tui’s Marella Voyager cruise ship — taking in outstanding views of the Acropolis, Temple of Hephaestus and Pnyx Hill, where the Athenians created the concept of democracy.

Next time you put an X on a ballot paper, this is where it all began 2,500 years ago.

The Segway tour (£110pp), started in tourist hangout Plaka and also visited ­Thiseio, where the locals chill. Fun and insightful, it was a hit with my group.

And, in the free time in Plaka afterwards, treat yourself to a frozen yoghurt for a couple of quid — the Lukumades shop is deservedly popular.

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My wife Debbie and I had joined the all-inclusive Voyager in Corfu, with a seamless airport transfer and check-in at the port.

Greeted by stewards Andi and Yosua, we settled into our balcony cabin then demolished a Mexican meal at the Abuela’s restaurant, followed by a rocking sailaway show from The Journeymen band.

Before arriving at Athens we had a sea day with pre-booked spa treatments. Debbie loved her Thai massage (£129) from Cherry, and I was wowed by a rejuvenating men’s pro- collagen grooming and shave (£69) by Marco.

I felt like a Greek god after an hour in the barber’s chair. We dined like gods that night too, on a superb seven-course food odyssey at the Silver Fork restaurant (£51.95pp), with the highlights a spicy white tomato soup and a beef Wellington to fill your boots with.

Another standout was the Kora La Asian-inspired restaurant (£38.95pp) and its Thali tasting experience — surely this is the best curry at sea.

Mind you, if you’re on a budget you can easily spend the week eating well in the included The Kitchens buffet and the Latitude 53 (international), Vista (Italian) and Piccadilly’s (British) restaurants, along with Abuela’s (Mexican), Nonna’s (pizza/pasta) and the poolside Shack (fast food).

Drinks-wise, we rated swanky Flutes for fizz and laid-back Summer House, with its retractable roof and al fresco area at the stern, for cold beers and ciders.

The Squid & Anchor is your go-to for lively nights of music, quizzes and karaoke and the Broadway theatre hosts West End-style performances.

Nigel’s cruise ship docked in Corfu Credit: Supplied
An ancient toilet in Santorini Credit: Supplied

Up for some immersive, cocktail-fuelled fun? Head to The Exchange speakeasy, where many guests dress up in 1920s-style clothes (£18.95pp).

New day, new country. After our Athens adventure, next up was Kusadasi, Turkey.

We could have hit the beach but walked to the 16th-century castle — on an island reached by a 400-yard causeway — and its open-air/indoor museum covering local maritime trade, wildlife (check the whale skeleton) and plants. Worth a look, decent views and a nice waterfront cafe (£8pp).

Before strolling back to Voyager, we failed to resist the shops selling carpets, knock-off designer goods and that leather jacket you never knew you needed. Luckily, everything is a “special price today, just for you!”

Kusadasi is the gateway to Ephesus, home of the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. If you haven’t been, get it on your cruise excursion list. It’s outstanding.

Back in Greece for the next call at Insta-fave island Santorini, we joined a tour to Akrotiri — the “Pompeii of the Aegean” — where archaeologists have uncovered part of a city buried under 27ft of ash when the Thera volcano erupted in 1600 BC.

The Thera explosion was around 20 times more powerful than when Vesuvius blasted the real Pompeii in AD 79 and the resulting 100ft tsunami wiped out the Minoan civilisation on Crete 60 miles away, with the ash cloud even affecting the weather in China.

Our excellent guide was former archaeologist Marianne, who used to work here so has the best facts about life in the Bronze Age. Unsurprisingly, she knew a group of Brits would be enthused by seeing the 3,600-year-old “flushing” toilet in a house!

Spot loggerhead turtles in Kefalonia Credit: Supplied
Dine like gods on a superb seven-course food odyssey at the Silver Fork restaurant with highlights including a spicy white tomato soup Credit: Supplied

You’re dropped off in pretty Fira overlooking the sea-filled caldera for a wander at leisure, with a ticket for the cable car down to the dock and the tender boats (£62pp).

Next up is Chania, in western Crete, where a €1.80 each-way, 20-minute bus from Souda dropped us near the beautiful Venetian port, where we climbed the tower in the harbour fort to take it all in and idly wandered through the grid of shopping streets.

It’s a real charmer and you could easily while away a full day here, but the ship has a schedule to keep and that took us to our final port, Argostoli in Kefalonia.

We’d only planned to pick up some souvenirs and an ice cream but headed to the footbridge south of the centre to see why there were so many tourists gathered.

The hotel pool has a spectacular view Credit: Supplied

GO: AEGEAN CRUISE & CORFU STAY

GETTING, CRUISING & STAYING THERE: A 14-night cruise-and-stay holiday costs from £2,313pp, including a seven-night Aegean Shores cruise on Marella Voyager, plus a seven-night stay at the Atlantica Grand Mediterraneo Resort in Ermones.

Price is based on two adults sharing on an all-inclusive basis with flights from Stansted on September 25, 20kg of luggage each, transfers, tips and service charges.

Cruise calls at Corfu, Piraeus (for Athens), Kusadasi (for Ephesus), Santorini, Souda (for Chania) in Crete, and Kefalonia.

See tui.co.uk/cruise.

The answer was four adult loggerhead turtles swimming around just feet from us and we snapped away with the excited crowd. A magical holiday highlight to see these ­vulnerable creatures so close up.

Next morning, back in Corfu, we headed down the gangway one final time. But not before checking eBay to find out how much a second-hand Segway is!

THIS GRAND RESORT IS A RAIL TREAT

TUI’s Cruise & Stay programme – where you add a hotel break to the start or end of your holiday at sea – is increasingly popular and Corfu is the perfect destination to try it.

So when Voyager docked back at the island, Debbie and I did not go to the airport. Instead, we headed 25 minutes by road to Ermones Bay on the west coast for three nights at the five-star Atlantica Grand Mediterraneo.

This elegant adults-only resort is in a spectacular 110-acre location, set in terraces on a steep hill by the sea, and we adored our deluxe suite with its earthy hues, clean design, private infinity pool and stellar view.

But the 270-room hotel, one of the best in Greece, is not just about scenery – there’s a lovely pool area, tennis courts, gym, spa with indoor heated pool and a beach with a bar reached by a funicular.

Yes, you read that right – this hotel has a railway running through it!

Alternatively, golf buggies ferry guests around – or the energetic can tackle the many steps.

During your stay you’re likely to encounter Perla, a cute little fluffy white dog who arrived here one day and never left.

She’s now effectively a member of the very friendly and helpful staff, ‘greeting’ guests around the resort.

Food is a high point at the Grand Mediterraneo and we dived in at the a la carte White Pearl restaurant, which offers modern Greek cuisine.

The Ionian Sea was the perfect backdrop for a memorable meal of kebabs and baked goat’s cheese in nuts to start, then chicken breast in feta sauce and sea bass mains, with the added bonus of a tot of aromatic ‘mastika’ liqueur from Greece’s Chios island to finish.

There is a second a la carte restaurant, Italian-themed, al fresco Vertigo, which lives up to its name in a lofty clifftop location.

Again, we dined like MasterChef judges, savouring blue cheese mousse, scallops and arancini appetisers before the centrepiece – a sensational crayfish, ouzo, saffron and dill risotto.

We drank in the views as easily as a chilled glass of rosé.

We thought the Medusa buffet, which has a huge variety of dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner with various daily themes, was top notch and, if you only choose to eat here, you’ll be very happy with it.

By day, most guests congregate around the main pools and during our stay the hotel was full – but there are ample sunloungers, so there’s no need to get up at 6am for the ridiculous towel run.

Also worth noting is that the background muzak is not intrusive, pumping DJ beats are a rare thing at hotels these days.

For a sundowner, the prime spot is the terrace by the Vertigo bar, where guests gather to get the perfect sunset snap.

The main Eros bar is the focus for poolside evening entertainment and we thoroughly enjoyed a spirited performance from the Fuego Tenors, who gave us everything from Andrea Bocelli to Queen and The Shadows.

Dogs aren’t daft and Perla has decided she’s not leaving the superlative Atlantica Grand Mediterraneo. Don’t blame her, we were very reluctant to check out too.

See tui.co.uk/cruise/cruise-and-stay.

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I lived in one of Europe’s most expensive cities

An image collage containing 4 images, Image 1 shows View of the Ostermalm district coastline with historical buildings and a ship, Image 2 shows Aerial view of Stockholm, Sweden's Östermalm area in autumn, with historical buildings, colorful foliage, and a river with boats, Image 3 shows Djurgarden Island in Stockholm, with the Nordic Museum in the background, waterfront dining, and boats on the water at sunset, Image 4 shows A hand holding a blue SL Stockholm public transport access card while on a train

WHEN you think of Sweden, you think ABBA, IKEA and Northern Lights – as well as it being an expensive holiday destination.

However, I got to know another side of its capital city Stockholm when I lived there for a few months as a student.  

Stockholm might be known as an expensive city but there is a way to do it on a budget Credit: Alamy

And as a student, it meant I was on a strict budget, so I was on the hunt for the cheapest places to eat and drink as well as finding the best free things to do.

So here’s everything you need to know to avoid emptying your wallet, from cheap transport to bargain hidden gems.

Travel passes

If you’re planning on travelling around the city by public transport, then the SL Smart Card can save you money.

Instead of topping up or paying a fare everyday, you purchase a time-limited travel card and this lets you take all the buses, trams, inner-city commuter ferries, metro and commuter trains your heart desires. 

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When I found the perks of the SL cards, I was exploring the city like nobody’s business as I didn’t have to think about the logistics of costs if I wanted to go to two different neighbourhoods in one day.

Depending on how long you’re there you can choose from different time periods, starting at 24 hours for £13.83 (SEK 180). 

Compare that to a 24-hour pass across Zones 1-6 in London is £23.60?

A much bigger bargain.

An SL Smart Card is great if you plane on travelling around all day Credit: Alamy

Hidden gems

While the centre of Stockholm is great, did you know that the Stockholm Archipelago is home to 30,000 islands?

So one thing I highly recommend is hopping on an inner-city commuter ferry, which you can use with your SL card.

I recommend stopping off at Djurgården, known as Museum Island and is home to ABBA Museum.

But Art-lovers will also love Modern Museet and it is free to visit on Friday evenings between 6pm and 8pm during spring and autumn.

Otherwise ride the metro to Gamla Stan and find Stortoget, the city’s oldest square which is referred to as ‘The Bloodbath,’ having sparked the Swedish War of Liberation.  

You may need to squint your eyes for this one; the Iron Boy (Järnpojke) sculpture is the smallest public monument in Stockholm. 

You might also miss is the narrowest street in the whole city, found down the steps of Mårten Trotzigs gränd. Touch both walls with your hands and make a wish for some good luck.

The Nobel Prize Museum is touristy but also worth a visit too, as included in the entry ticket is a guided tour around the displays so it’s a great way to get a glimpse into ideas that have transformed the way we live. 

Use your pass to get a ferry to ‘Museum Island’ Credit: Alamy

Cheap eats and drink

The Swedes love a coffee break, which loosely translates to ‘fika’ – and there are some insanely delicious places to go.

One of my favourites which I went to every week was Stora Bageriet in the district of Östermalm.

Built into a former military bakery that supplied soldiers with bread rations, now you can watch the bakers at work.

Don’t expect to get a table inside as it’s pretty small, but the huge courtyard is where to go instead, especially in the summer months.

As well as the traditional sweet treats up for grabs, I would suggest opting for their other pastries because I can guarantee you that you will not find anything like it elsewhere. I loved the danish buns with rhubarb, which cost just £3.89.

Lots of the city’s bars and restaurants are on floating platforms on the river, and one of my favourites is Mälarpaviljongen.

If you know where to look, you can find some grat hidden gems in the city Credit: Alamy
The Ostermalm district is one to go to for bakeries Credit: Alamy

You might expect the garden-restaurant to be on a single platform but actually there are several platforms that are joined through footpaths and bridges.

Take your time to wander through before picking up a tray and working through the window displays. 

Otherwise find beers for under a fiver at the much loved Ölstugan Kungsholmen.

As a student, you’d often find me in the local McDonald’s after a late night out, but Stockholm also has its own take on Maccy D’s called MAX Burgers. 

No matter where you are, I guarantee you’ll find a MAX close to you and the best thing is that the quality of food is better with the same cheap prices. 

My go-tos were a box of cheese fries (£3.42), crunchy chicken wings (£2.64) or a bacon cheeseburger (£6.76). If you love cheese or want to splurge, try the ‘Original Cheese Can’ (£6.92) which is a burger served with a side of melted cheese dip. 

Otherwise when in Sweden – have the IKEA meatballs?

For under a fiver, you can get a plate of 8-piece meatballs with the traditional sides of cream sauce, lingonberry jam, peas and a choice of boiled or mashed potatoes. 

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I went on a budget-billionaire holiday to Spain with scuba bikes and sunset parties

Collage of women on a boat in Palma with city views and a resort pool.

IT’S late morning and I’m sunbathing on the front deck of a swish motor-cruiser, glass of rosé in hand and Balearic beats drumming in the background while I sail across the sparkling Mediterranean.

Life doesn’t get much better than this. On a normal Saturday morning, I would be standing pitchside at my kids’ football practice, ready to hand out water, yet here I was being waited on hand and foot.

Caroline Iggulden and friends in party mode Credit: Supplied
Enjoy a daytime party at UM Beach House Credit: instagram/umbeachhousemallorca

My five mum pals and I had decided to jazz up our weekend mini break to Mallorca’s capital city, Palma, by hiring a private boat to take us around the coast.

We’d been inspired by celebs like Jennifer Aniston, Courteney Cox and Pedro Pascal, who have all been spotted sunning themselves on yachts this summer.

And the great thing is, you don’t need a mega budget to live an A-list lifestyle in Mallorca.

Sail Trip Mallorca, run by husband and wife Yannick and Sarah, offers bespoke private and group trips that are super-easy to book.

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Once on board, all we needed to worry about was relaxing on the cushioned sunbathing area and deciding what tunes to blast through the bluetooth speaker.

Captain Yannick ensured drinks were kept topped up as he steered us towards a secluded cove, where we didn’t waste any time diving into the crystal-clear water.

Despite us all being in our forties, some of our number were brave enough to take a leap from the roof of the captain’s cabin, straight into the ocean.

If you’re not a brave swimmer, though, our boat came equipped with paddleboards, a giant ring and snorkelling gear.

Then there are the underwater “scuba bikes” that allow guests to travel as deep as 20 feet beneath the waves, equipped with an oxygen tank and clear helmet so you can observe the fish as you pedal.

While we enjoyed a dip and a cycle, the multi-talented Yannick whipped up a delicious lunch of tapas, salad, mini burgers and dips for us to tuck into back on board.

Then, all that was left to do as we cruised back into Palma harbour was take in the most spectacular views of the city’s cathedral.

The whole experience felt like pure luxury. But best of all, it didn’t cost us an arm and a leg.

Enjoy a city stroll in Palma, Mallorca Credit: Getty
The Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma Credit: David Soanes Photography

With enough space for 11 guests, the four-hour trip costs around £100pp including access to all the water equipment and a boozy lunch. Not bad, if you ask me.

Once back on dry land, be sure to check out the spectacular Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma up close.

And if you haven’t had enough of a dance on the boat, the recently opened AMOK in Palma hosts regular sunset parties that are well worth the €15 entry.

Far from being a boisterous, sweaty nightclub, this classy venue has a huge terrace bar and garden, lit up by twinkling lights in the trees.

Here, sunset views are accompanied by top-class DJs playing a mix of modern and Latin beats and excellent cocktails. If you’ve got the stamina, the party moves inside to the main club at 11:30pm and continues until 6am.

Don’t worry if you’re not a late-night raver, though. Those who prefer more of a daytime party will love UM Beach House (umbeachhouse.com).

Palma isn’t blessed with the greatest beaches, but this seafront club is gorgeous, with its own picturesque pool and direct access to the sea.

It’s a favourite holiday haunt of celebs, such as radio presenter Kate Lawler, who also visited in June.

Tuck into tasty tapas for lunch Credit: Supplied

GO: PALMA, MALLORCA

GETTING THERE: EasyJet flies from Luton and other UK airports to Palma in Mallorca from £19.99 each way.

See easyjet.com.

STAYING THERE: Rooms at the 4* AC Hotel Ciutat de Palma cost from 130 euros (£111.30) per night including breakfast.

See marriott.com.

OUT & ABOUT: Private trips with Sail Trip Mallorca cost from £90.46pp for a four-hour sailing.

For more info, see sailtripmallorca.com.

Reclining on the huge, padded loungers, big enough for three, with glasses of fizz in our hands, Monday’s school run felt a world away.

Definitely stay for lunch as UM Beach House has a 360-degree terrace overlooking the sea, which serves a varied and delicious menu of fresh seafood pasta, light poke bowls and . . . more rosé.

Best of all, we were able to store our suitcases on site so, after a few hours of luxury bliss, we hopped into taxis straight for the airport feeling pampered instead of having to drag ourselves back to the hotel all frazzled.

Talk about the VIP treatment.

I know what I’ll be dreaming of when I’m standing at the side of a football pitch at the weekend.

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‘I haven’t felt this present for months’: sail back in time on a Thames barge in Essex | Sailing holidays

In a darkened room in Maldon, Essex, a ship’s lantern illuminates the laundry drying on a web of ropes suspended from the ceiling. Between piles of sailing memorabilia, 86-year-old Barry Pearce is flipping through a yellowing logbook, watched by his mongrel, Winkle. It feels more like a ship’s cabin than a terrace house. Pearce is one of a handful of surviving skippers who delivered freight on the Thames by sailing barge, the flat-bottomed trading boats famous for their striking red sails that were endemic to the river’s estuary until the 1960s. He remembers the names of every vessel he worked on – Remercie, Edith May, Colonia.

In the 19th century, the ochre sails of thousands of Thames sailing barges pierced the skyline as the craft carried cargo from the Thames estuary and beyond in and out of London. Their shallow draft allowed them to snake far upriver in as little as a metre of water (bargemen would boast that they could sail anywhere there had been a heavy dew). Their ingenious rig, with sails that could be set and stowed with the help of winches, meant around 150 tonnes of cargo could be shifted by just a skipper and mate – often accompanied by a guard dog. This efficiency allowed them to outlive all other commercial sailing vessels, surviving until the 1960s, when Pearce himself took the helm.

Illustration: Guardian Graphics

Today, only about 30 Thames barges are still sailing, either as private homes or leisure cruisers. Two of them – Pudge and Centaur – lie like beached krakens on the oozing mud of Maldon’s Blackwater estuary. Both are owned by the Thames Sailing Barge Trust, a charity run entirely by volunteers, including Pearce. Every summer, both vessels can be hired as private charters for groups of up to 12, or you can book a berth on one of their one- to three-day public sailing cruises. They also offer events such as children’s art days throughout the year.

I’m here on a scorching evening at Hythe quay to spend the weekend exploring the River Blackwater and Essex coast aboard Centaur, a barge built in 1895. Itineraries are flexible and based on passengers’ interests. For us it involves sailing up the Blackwater, a Pimm’s at Tollesbury Marina, and a swim off Shingle Point and wander around West Mersea on Mersea Island. Our motley crew consists of three trainees overseen by skipper Chris Martin, who teaches boatbuilding at vocational training organisation Circles Alternative Education.

Centaur in the Blackwater estuary. Photograph: Chris Bourne

There are also six passengers, ranging in age from 18 to 76, in five cabins, which are basic but comfortable (each has a wash basin). Although I am the only one who is not a competent sailor, Martin makes it clear that helping to handle the barge is optional.

Unwisely, given our 3am departure to catch high tide, I sink several pints with the two youngest members of Pudge’s crew in the Little Ship Club on the quay. A behemothic man wielding a squeezebox sings sea shanties as salty couples slow dance nearby. “I only know of one or two people my age who are into barging, and I find that disturbing,” yells 25-year-old Charlie Francis over strains of Bound for South Australia. “Barging was the lifeblood of the east coast. We should be proud of our heritage and celebrate the communities working to preserve it.”

After a few hours in my bunk, I make it on to deck at 4.15am. The moon is a slice of radish in a lilac sky. We’re bearing away from the wind and, having set the sails, the crew is already on their second round of tea and custard creams.

As dawn paints its peachy palette, Martin turns the great wheel. He points out Blackwater landmarks that only a local would know: the green buoy known as the Doctor, where early 20th-century fishers left spirits for the alcoholics supposedly drying out at Osea Island’s temperance resort; the pub where, as recently as 20 years ago, Martin witnessed a smuggler wordlessly deliver two dripping bags while regulars stared determinedly into their pints; the hulking trawler, Ross Revenge, which is still home to Radio Caroline, the former pirate station – another relic kept alive by volunteers of the Blackwater.

The writer on the deck of the Centaur. Photograph: Laura Lewis/The Guardian

Where the river opens into the silvery sea, the wind picks up and the barge rocks gently against the tide. My eyelids are heavy and the slowness of the whole experience is working its magic on my screen-frazzled brain. Martin calls for the staysail to be unfurled, a 20-minute task that rewards the barge with another knot and a half of speed. “This life is the antithesis of the digital age’s obsession with instant gratification,” he says. “Sailing barges may not be able to teach us much about cargo any more, but they can teach us the value of slowing down, doing things with our hands and spending time in nature.”

As we make our stately, seven-knot progress, 370 sq metres of rust-red canvas billows above and fingers of salt marsh slide by. With so little distraction, the coffee tastes lip-curlingly bitter, the bacon sandwiches as saline as the deep. I settle on a coil of rope to scan the horizon for porpoises, but soon drift into sleep.

A swim from a sandbank near Tollesbury is followed by a meander through West Mersea at golden hour. Clapboard cottages framed by hollyhocks sit beside sailmakers and chandleries converted into trendy cafes. We drop anchor in the Blackwater estuary and beneath a blazing sunset tuck into lasagne on deck. I haven’t felt this present for months. It’s all such a delight I begin to feel concerned about the trust’s future. Sailing barges cost between £30,000 and £100,000 a year to keep afloat. The trip I’m on costs just £220 including meals, while the Trust’s annual membership is only £37.50.

Although the trust offers training in many of the skills needed to maintain the barges, sourcing the timber is becoming increasingly difficult – and expensive. “Centaur’s exterior planking is pitch pine from the Mississippi basin, which is incredibly durable, but has been virtually exhausted,” says Martin. “And so much of the timber trade has been replaced by plastic.”

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The trust also offers free training for future skippers, including the mate on our trip, 18-year-old Ben Weldon, the son of a local shipwright. However, it typically takes 2,000 hours – or 10 years – and the dropout rate is high.

While the trust has recently been awarded £28,090 from the National Lottery Heritage Fund to develop a bid for the £4m needed to restore Centaur, it seems wrong that responsibility for keeping this thread of Britain’s maritime story from unravelling rests on so few shoulders. Sailing may be associated with privilege, but we are a seafaring nation and this inheritance belongs to all of us.

Skipper Chris Martin, on the left, on board Centaur. Photograph: Imogen Lepere

On Sunday morning, our last on board, a westerly fills the sails, and the tea-coloured Blackwater wrinkles beneath the bow as we beat our way back towards Maldon. “Lee ho,” Martin calls, showing me how to spin the wheel to help the crew tack. “So far we’ve used less than a gallon of fuel to do 50 miles. Pretty extraordinary, given that a family car does about 30 miles to the gallon.”

When I asked Pearce at the start of the trip why keeping Thames sailing barges afloat is worth the fight, he looked blank, as if such a question had never occurred to him. He showed me a pencil sketch of a barge he had drawn at the age of 15 in Greenwich, left half-finished when his skipper had poked his head through the hatch and invited him below for dinner. Now, more than 70 years later, he bends once more over that drawing as though no time has passed.

Eventually, he half-whispers: “Well, they’re just lovely, ain’t they?” He glances toward the window. Nearby, Centaur waits on the mud for the returning tide.

The trip was provided by the Thames Sailing Barge Trust. The next weekend aboard Centaur departs on 14 August, £220 for two nights’ full board; three-night trips depart on 3 September (£350 on Pudge, £320 on Centaur) and 18 September (£290 on Centaur). A variety of one-day sailings are also available
from £55 to £125pp

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