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A perfect weekend in the Darent valley, Kent: a ‘demi-paradise’ of art, lavender fields and great pubs | England holidays

In the 1820s, a young painter left London to live in Shoreham in the west of Kent. In his waterside cottage, Samuel Palmer – remembered now as a key figure of British Romanticism – depicted moonlit cornfields, apple trees bowed under fruit and hills swollen with light. He dubbed the area his Valley of Vision. Two centuries on, Palmer’s own vision of Shoreham – and the surrounding Darent Valley – as a demi-paradise isn’t too far from the canvas.

I’ve lived in the area for five years and can’t quite believe how few people come to Shoreham. It feels like a secret yet is less than an hour from London by train. The village itself sits on the River Darent, remarked on by Edmund Spenser in his poem The Faerie Queene for its gentleness and clear water: “The still Darent, in whose waters cleane, ten thousand fishes play and decke his pleasant streame …”.

Lullingstone Country Park on the Darent Valley Trail. Photograph: AMcCulloch/Alamy

This 21-mile chalk stream glides into the Thames from Westerham and can be explored by the scenic waymarked Darent Valley Path. Shoreham is a pretty place. The road into the village drops to a stream under a weeping willow, flanked by two good pubs, and it makes a good base for exploring. Lopsided Tudor chimneys and pastel cottages lean over the lanes, and the Grade I-listed church of St Peter and St Paul keeps watch over the churchyard. It’s no surprise artists still come here to capture Palmer’s magic.

Neighbouring Otford and Eynsford are minutes on the train (or a short drive). Otford is the antique-hunter’s village, with waterside houses, the ruins of a 16th-century palace and a listed duck house on the pond – check out the labyrinthine Otford Antiques and Collectors Centre. Eynsford has the history: Lullingstone Roman villa with its beautifully preserved painted walls; Lullingstone Castle, favoured by Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn; and the ford, ringed by half-timbered houses.

Don’t miss

My top recommendation is cream tea at the Shoreham Aircraft Museum. The valley saw heavy aerial combat in the second world war, and this volunteer-run museum remembers it. You enter through the garden door of artist and proprietor Geoff Nutkins’ home, past overgrown flowerpots, witty hand-painted boards and an antique Hovis sign above a converted bakehouse, now a tearoom frozen in the early 20th century. The delicious puddings and doorstop sandwiches come from Nutkins’ own kitchen. (My Tunisian girlfriend describes it to friends as “exotically English”.) The £5 ticket to the museum buys entry to a lifetime’s collection, plus the story of his work building memorials to lost servicemen from both sides.

Take a hike

A path near Shoreham. Photograph: Graeme Robertson/The Guardian

Bring comfortable shoes. The beautiful gentle four-mile stretch of the Darent Valley Path from Shoreham to Eynsford suits all abilities, and is as good on a crisp winter day as in July, following the river through empty woodlands and rolling hills. It’s just four minutes by train if you’d rather ride back.

A 20-minute stroll from the churchyard in Shoreham brings you to Castle Farm (five minutes by car), one of the UK’s largest lavender growers. The farm shop, under rafters hung with hops, sells lavender oils, teas and ice-cream made from the harvest. Stock up on a box of gypsy tarts, a Kentish staple made with condensed milk and muscovado sugar. Grab some lavender honey, too (the farm keeps beehives). A coffee shed serves lavender teas and coffees. In summer you can picnic among the rows, à la Provence, or book to join in the harvest.

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Where to eat

The Samuel Palmer in Shoreham. Photograph: Nathaniel Noir/Alamy

In Shoreham stop by The Crown for lunch. This dog-friendly locals’ pub has an intimate dining room and serves hearty, locally sourced classics such as fish and chips and a handmade pie of the day. Portions are large, but leave space for dinner at The Samuel Palmer. The beamed, fire-lit bar serves traditional pub favourites and small plates, while the bright, kid-friendly restaurant at the back presents chef Kieran Farquhar’s elevated seasonal discovery menu at £48 a head. At Mount Vineyard, the on-site restaurant has a pizza menu, and a quaint cafe by the vines serves coffee and handmade pastries.

In Otford try The Bull, with its pretty gardens. In Eynsford, The Malt Shovel is a favourite locally for lunch, with big portions and fair prices.

Where to stay

My pick is White Hill Woods, five minutes’ walk from Shoreham station, which has a log cabin for families (from £150 a night), and a shepherd’s hut for couples and solo travellers (from £100 a night, both two night minimum). There is a heated pool or just relax in the forest. Book ahead, as it’s popular with repeat visitors.

Getting there and around

There is a twice-hourly train from London Blackfriars to the villages, which takes about an hour, and using it to hop between them takes minutes. The Line 2 bus from Swanley to Sevenoaks runs along the road between the villages. Drivers will have no trouble parking, even on weekends.

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Tell us about a great conservation tourism experience | Travel

Tourism can be a force for good when done well – and we want to hear about places and projects you’ve discovered that help conserve local ecosystems and cultures. Whether it was a volunteering holiday planting trees in Scotland, a stay at an eco-hotel that helps protect local flora and fauna, or a project breathing life back into abandoned villages, tell about us your experience for the chance to win a holiday voucher.

The best tip of the week, chosen by Tom Hall of Lonely Planet wins a £200 voucher to stay at a Coolstays property – the company has more than 3,000 worldwide. The best tips will appear in the Guardian Travel section and website.

Keep your tip to about 100 words

If you have a relevant photo, do send it in – but it’s your words we will be judging for the competition.

We’re sorry, but for legal reasons you must be a UK resident to enter this competition.

The competition closes on Monday 26 October at 10am GMT

Have a look at our past winners and other tips

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Want to get outside this weekend? 3 great L.A. hikes to avoid heat

Three weeks after the autumnal equinox, it finally feels like fall.

Well, kind of.

This past weekend, Southern Californians breathed a collective sigh of relief as an oppressive heat wave broke. Temperatures in L.A. dropped 31 degrees, from 104 degrees on Oct. 4 to one week later, a high of 73 degrees, according to observed weather data.

I felt like a climatological grim reaper when, in the midst of my friends celebrating the drop in temperature, I told them it was temporary, as it was expected to get hot. Again. (I’m great at parties!)

But, even still, I want to help you get outdoors — safely. In this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will share three excellent L.A. hikes that each offer something different — great views or shade, for example — with caveats about the best time to go.

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The first caveat is: The National Weather Service issued a red flag watch and warning, which signals an increased risk of fire danger, for much of L.A. and Ventura counties from Thursday morning through Saturday evening. It includes the San Gabriel and Santa Monica mountains. As a result, parks within Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area will be closed Thursday through Saturday. The closure applies to land managed by California State Parks, the National Park Service, the Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy and Mountains Recreation and Conservation Authority.

Daniel Swain, UC Agriculture and Natural Resources climate scientist, told my Times colleagues Terry Castleman and Rong-Gong Lin II in a recent story that the greater fire risk will be in communities and natural areas west of the 405 Freeway, as east of the 405 recently saw rain.

A wide highway passes by hillsides covered in greenery with mountains in the distance.

The 405 Freeway passes through several areas with hillsides covered in dense shrubs and trees.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Times)

“West of that point, almost no rain fell at all, and in early October we had a record-breaking heat wave,” Swain said. “East of the 405 in Southern California, the fire risk is lower because it recently rained.”

Bearing that in mind, two of the hikes below are east of the 405 and the third is an urban hike. All three avoid long drives far into the mountains. The two hikes closest to the foothills have large parking areas and clear exits. The urban hike usually offers clear views that should allow hikers to spot a fire near them and evacuate quickly.

Kids balance on rocks as they cross a river.

Several children balance on rocks as they cross a segment of the Arroyo Seco near Pasadena.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. A shady hike along a flowing river

Gould Mesa via Gabrielino Trail
Distance: About 4 miles out and back
Elevation gained: About 300 feet
Difficulty: Easier end of moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Pasadena, La Cañada Flintridge and Altadena
Accessible alternative: The first mile of this trail is paved. See notes below.

The Gabrielino National Recreation Trail is a 28.8-mile journey from Chantry Flat Recreation Area north of Sierra Madre all the way to the Ventura Street & Windsor Avenue trailhead near the Hahamongna Watershed Park in La Cañada Flintridge. It is a multi-use trail for hikers, mountain bikers and horse riders.

The trail has several beautiful sections, including from its western entrance in Hahamongna to the Gould Mesa Trail Camp. This segment is mostly shaded and great for a morning stroll, especially before 11 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.

To begin your hike, you’ll park at a large free dirt lot near the backside of NASA’s Jet Propulsion Lab. If hiking in a wheelchair or seeking an accessible paved path, I recommend parking at this smaller paved lot, as that’s where the paved portion of the trail begins. (Please leave this lot for folks seeking the accessibility alternative, as it’s smaller than the large dirt lot — and both are free!)

You can either take the paved trail or an unofficial dirt trail that follows the Arroyo Seco before leading you to the official trail. Either way, it’s primarily a mix of flat path and gentle inclines along the Arroyo Seco, shaded by coast live oaks, bay laurels and sycamore trees. After hiking about two miles, you’ll reach the Gould Mesa Trail Camp, where you can set up a picnic at one of the campground’s tables, or cool off along the creek.

And if you’d like to go a bit farther, you can continue onward to the Paul Little Picnic Site or the Brown Mountain Dam waterfall (see map). Regardless of where you stop, I promise you’ll be treated to a stunning landscape and likely hear the chirp and squawk of scrub jays, California quail and more.

Shaded path lined with shrubs headed toward a glowing hillside.

The San Gabriel Mountains become blanketed in golden light in the early evening in Dunsmore Canyon in Deukmejian Wilderness Park, a Glendale park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. A canyon hike with incredible views

Dunsmore Canyon & Le Mesnager Loop Trail
Distance: 2.6 miles
Elevation gained: About 800 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: Stough Canyon Fire Trail with Action Trackchair AXIS 40

This 2.6-mile hike through the 709-acre Deukmejian Wilderness Park in Glendale will offer you not only great views of the surrounding cities but also an opportunity to spend time among healthy native trees and plants, including California buckwheat, black sage and California sagebrush (which you should smell).

You’ll park in a lot near the Stone Barn Nature Center. Several signs are usually posted around the lot warning visitors about when the park will close, and a staff member will lock the gate. I think that’s serious, so take note.

You’ll start your hike on Dunsmore Canyon Trail, headed northeast up a straight gravel path covered on both sides with thick ceanothus, yerba santa and more.

Semi-shaded trail through shrubs and hills.

Although some hikes, like this path in Dunsmore Canyon in Glendale, may appear exposed during the day, you might find they’re shadier in the morning or evening, depending on their local topography.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Just 0.2 miles in, there’s a massive old coast live oak where kids could easily create an imaginary forest kingdom under its large branches.

As you continue to climb, you might hear Dunsmore Creek, which runs parallel to the trail. Remember to turn around as you gain elevation, as this trail rewards you with substantial views of Glendale and the Crescenta Valley soon after you start. All the while, you have the San Gabriel Mountains right in front of you, including Mt. Lukens, which you can hike to from the same park.

Half a mile in, you have the option to continue on the Dunsmore Canyon Trail or Le Mesnager Trail to make a shorter loop. Le Mesnager Trail includes a lookout point at about 2,750 feet, a great spot for sunset as long as you don’t get locked in! As you meander down the trail, you’ll find a nice shady canopy and continued views of the city below.

Given our weekend temperatures, this trail is best in the morning or evening. I personally prefer the latter, when golden hour paints the mountains a deep gold to red.

If you plan to hike it in the evening, though, keep the park hours in mind. It is open until 8 p.m. until Monday, when its hours shift to closing at 7 p.m., which remains until Daylight Saving Time ends Nov 1. This is relevant if you plan to park in the lot. Otherwise, you can walk out of the park and back to your car. Regardless, have fun!

A set of stairs runs through the middle of a hillside, leading to a road overlook area with views of the surrounding city.

Visitors reach the Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook by climbing the Culver City Stairs.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

3. An urban hike near a great picnic area

Culver City Stairs to Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook
Distance: 1.4 miles
Elevation gained: About 350 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Only on the paved road, not on trails
Accessible alternative: Discovery Park and Bluff Creek Trail

This 1.4-mile out-and-back jaunt up 282 concrete steps, known locally as the Culver City Stairs, takes hikers to the stunning Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook. From here, you’ll have one of L.A.’s most breathtaking — kind of literally — city views.

To begin, you’ll take the Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook entrance off Jefferson Boulevard. You’ll follow a dirt path briefly east, follow a switchback to the west and soon find stairs. Head straight up, pausing to breathe and appreciate the views. The stairs vary in height, from about 3 to 20 inches, so it’s good to take your time.

At the top, you’ll have panoramic views that, on a clear day, include the Pacific Ocean. To return, you can either head back down the steps or take the meandering dirt trail down.

Culver City is expected to be cooler on Sunday than Saturday, with an expected high of 85 degrees. Why not make it a morning trek followed by brunch?

Regardless of where you go, I hope you have a safe and meaningful time on our public lands!

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3 things to do

1. Prance up to a giant pumpkin in Norco
The L.A. Fright Club will host a 1.6-mile moderate hike at 9 a.m. Sunday to Pumpkin Rock in Norco. Guests should wear comfortable hiking shoes and bring water. Costumes encouraged. Learn more, including how to register, at the club’s Instagram page.

2. Make marvelous marsh pics in Irvine
The California Native Plant Society’s Orange County chapter will host a beginner nature photography course at 5:30 p.m. Thursday at the Duck Club at the San Joaquin Marsh in Irvine. At 5:30 p.m., photographer Bob Allen will guide attendees on a short walk in the marsh, followed by a presentation and discussion of technique at 7 p.m. Learn more at the organization’s Instagram page.

3. Witness the cosmos near Palm Springs
The San Bernardino Valley Amateur Astronomers will host a star party from 8 to 10 p.m. Saturday at the Whitewater Preserve northwest of Palm Springs. Gates will open at 7:30 p.m. and close at 8:05 p.m. No late entry. Learn more at the preserve’s Instagram page.

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The must-read

A turtle with orange-yellow legs and head and a green-tan shell is held by a person wearing black gloves.

An Eastern box turtle at the Turtle Conservancy in Ojai.

(Julie Leopo / For The Times)

The 90-acre Turtle Conservancy in Ojai was founded in 2005 as a research center and advocate for turtle habitat. But over the past 10 years, its mission has shifted in response to illegal turtle poaching, prompting the small nonprofit to take in 810 turtles — more than 400 of which they received in the past six months. What should the conservancy do once it has the turtles? That question remains heavily debated (and underfunded), an issue covered in a recent Times story by writer Stuart Miller. “It’s so easy to pluck an animal out of the wild, but when you want to put one back there’s more roadblocks,” said conservancy founder Eric Goode. “Can we find a happy medium? Because the best thing for these turtles is not to keep them in holding areas for too long.”

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Would you like to help scientists better understand where native species are thriving in L.A. County? Or how about researchers who are tracking where invasive species are taking up loads of space? The L.A. Nature Quest is a monthlong challenge that runs through Oct. 31. The L.A. Public Library helps host the challenge, which asks participants to download the citizen science app iNaturalist and then document the natural world in their neighborhood. This year, quest organizers are especially hoping people will pay attention to “cold spots,” where there is little to no data on habitat in an L.A. neighborhood. Check out the map at lapl.org to see how you can help.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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2026 World Track Cycling Championship: Great Britain’s men out in first round in team sprint while women takes silver

Great Britain’s Joe Truman said team-mate Matt Richardson’s withdrawal was “not ideal” and they had started “on the back foot” as they exited in the first round of the men’s team sprint at the World Track Cycling Championships.

Richardson was pulled from the competition on Monday amid allegations of misconduct.

The 27-year-old, who had also been expected to contend for medals in the individual sprint and keirin, said he would co-operate with a British Cycling investigation into the allegations.

His withdrawal overshadowed preparations for the event in Shanghai, though Britain’s women did secure silver in the team sprint.

Emma Finucane, who is Richardson’s partner, Sophie Capewell and Rhianna Parris-Smith finished fastest in qualifying, and beat France but lost to hosts China in the gold-medal race.

The men’s team – Truman, Ed Lowe and Harry Ledingham-Horn – finished fifth in the qualifying stage but were beaten by fourth-placed Australia in the opening round of head-to-head races.

“We came with a bit of a last-minute change, obviously,” said Truman. “We all said this morning we’re here just to ride our bikes.

“We’re on the back foot a bit but let’s just put our best foot forward, put a time on the board at the start of Olympic quali and we got a time to be proud of.

“None of us are riding in ideal circumstances but we’re professional athletes and so it’s what we train to do – we train to race when it’s not perfect – so I think we did OK. We’re looking ahead to the next couple of years and think we’re in a great spot.”

Elsewhere on day one, Britain’s women and men progressed as first and second fastest respectively in qualifying for the team pursuit events.

Meanwhile, Abigail Miller finished 17th of 24 riders in the women’s scratch race.

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Celebrity Traitors bosses scrap huge plans for series as epic moment should ‘make great TV’

An ‘epic moment’ has reportedly caught Celebrity Traitors bosses off guard and forced them to scrap huge plans they had for the series. The change will reportedly “make great TV”

The Celebrity Traitors bosses have been forced to scrap a cliffhanger but what has replaces it “will make great TV” according to sources.

The show sees twenty-one famous faces head to The Traitors castle, ready to play the ultimate game of deception and betrayal in the hope of winning a cash prize of up to £100,000 for a charity of their choice.

Fans quickly become invested in the show and to keep viewers hooked it has become known for it’s cliffhangers.

Tonight, viewers will tune in to watch the result of last Friday’s cliffhanger. The all-star line-up will be casting their votes on who to banish from Ardross Castle after the Withnail and I actor battled to convince them he was a faithful.

Actor Richard E. Grant was chosen by host Claudia Winkleman to be a Traitor alongside presenter Maya Jama. However, just minutes into the game, comedian Joe Lycett casually asked him what role he had been given, to which Grant immediately replied, “Traitor!”

He then spent the rest of the premiere manically back-pedaling to convince his fellow contestants that he was actually a Faithful who had simply made a bad joke.

A source told The Sun: “Cliffhangers on The Traitors have become legendary so bosses never want to disappoint and hope to have the nation on tenterhooks all week, waiting for Thursdays to come around – that’s part of the reason the format being fed out twice a week works.

“So they plot out likely moments in gameplay that will be the Friday cliffs. But during filming, something so unbelievable happened even execs didn’t see it coming.

“It forced them to throw plans out the window to accommodate the epic moment – which should make great TV.”

Production firm Studio Lambert decide what elements of the show would make good teasers during pre-production.

Speaking at the launch of the series, executive producer Sarah Fay said: “We always have an idea before going into pre-production what might be cliffhangers but we have to be so reactive because who knows what the story is going to be.

“Last year we went to deadlock [at the Round Table] when it was down to David [Olusoga] and Mark [Bonner] where it was a tie. We never knew that that was going to happen until obviously, it was happening right before our eyes.

“I think the beauty of this game as well is every episode we’ve probably got about three options of what the cliffhanger could be because it’s so nail-biting.”

The Mirror has contacted the BBC press office for comment.

The Celebrity Traitors returns tonight at 8pm on BBC One.

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Beautiful city with great food named best in the US — and it’s not New York or San Francisco

The best big city in the US has been crowned for the tenth consecutive year – and it’s not where you might think

The finest major city in the US has been crowned for the tenth year in a row – and it might surprise you. When considering American cities, New York typically comes to mind first.

However, according to a Condé Nast Traveler’s survey of over 800,000 respondents, Chicago takes the top spot. It’s the first and only city to claim the accolade for 10 consecutive years, initially securing the honour in 2017.

Since then, the city has experienced a decade of evolution that has seen it triumph time and time again.

Kristen Reynolds, President and CEO of Choose Chicago said: “This historic recognition belongs to the entire city of Chicago.

“From the hospitality professionals who welcome guests each day to the chefs, artists, musicians, entrepreneurs, and cultural leaders who create remarkable, only-in-Chicago experiences, it takes an entire city to sustain this standard for a decade.

“We do not stay at the top by standing still. Chicago is always evolving, always creating, and always giving visitors new reasons to come back”.

According to Condé Nast Traveler it’s “no wonder” the city has triumphed once more.

The article reads: “A world-class destination known for its impressive architecture, first-rate museums, brilliant chefs, and massive brewing scene, it’ll take several repeat visits to get through your list of must-dos.”

Mayor Brandon Johnson added: “This historic recognition reflects the creativity of our residents, the strength of our neighborhoods, and the excellence of the local institutions and businesses that welcome visitors from around the world.

For 10 consecutive years, travellers have recognised what Chicagoans already know: there is no place quite like our city.

“This remarkable milestone is a testament to everything Chicago has to offer and one our entire city can celebrate with pride.”

While Chicago claimed the top spot, New York failed to even crack the top three.

The Big Apple landed in fourth place, trailing behind Boston in third and San Francisco in second.

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LA28: Why you could represent Great Britain as flag football makes Olympic debut

Flag football is now played by 20 million people in more than 100 countries and the rapid growth of the women’s game was key to it becoming one of five optional sports for LA28.

The sport has been backed heavily by the NFL, which aims to help it earn selection for Brisbane 2032 too.

The decision is due before the end of 2026 so flag football could head into its Olympic debut knowing it will feature in back-to-back Games.

Participation has boomed in Australia and scores of athletes are switching from Australian rules football, netball and rugby, while the American team has recruited basketball players.

GB’s Brittany Botterill (football/softball), Phoebe Schecter (equestrian), Marta Mathews (football), Jochebed Frimpong (athletics), Jess Allen (badminton) and Angelica Tait (athletics/snowboarding) all competed in other sports before playing flag football.

US-born Emily Kemp even became an ultimate frisbee world champion last year, in the same summer she helped GB win the flag Euros.

“We are an elite team already, we’re a potential medal threat at LA28, but we’re really aspirational so we’re looking to widen our talent pool,” said Chad Ehlertsen, chief executive of the British American Football Association (Bafa).

“If you look at the top flag players around the world, they’ve generally come from certain sports. They have good hand-eye coordination, agility, speed, decision-making under pressure. These are the qualities we’re looking for.

“In many ways we’re not looking for elite flag players, we’re looking for elite athletes that have the potential [to transfer] and then our coaches will help them understand the game.”

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Fine scenery, historic towns and great pubs: a weekend walk on the Shropshire Way | Walking holidays

Few pubs boast a more idyllic setting. As I emerge from the woods after a 15-mile hike, The Bridges, on the banks of the Onny River, in the rolling south Shropshire hills, glistens in the late afternoon sun. Inside it’s all wooden beams, with light streaming through stained glass and huge bunches of homegrown flowers adding splashes of colour. There’s time for a pint before general manager Sam Thompson shows me to my room in the recently converted stables.

I’m here exploring part of the 185-mile (297km) Shropshire Way, on a two-day Heart of the Hills hike – one of the county tourist board’s new Rail-Ready Short Breaks. Designed for people who don’t have time to tackle the whole route, the itineraries focus on loops that are easy to access by train, with illustrated PDF downloads, GPX files, accommodation suggestions and highlights of what to do along the way. My route will take me from Shrewsbury to Bishop’s Castle via Ratlinghope – about 27 miles, perfect for a weekend.

The Bridges pub in Ratlinghope.

Shrewsbury itself is worth lingering in – the historic market town is crammed with independent shops and restaurants (I loved Csons for its creative small plates) and impressive Tudor architecture. But I’m most intrigued to learn that beavers have been reintroduced here by the council and the Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The first kit in the county in 400 years was born late last year and the Trust’s Tom Freeland shows me around the site, the Old River Bed nature reserve, just two miles north of the town centre. A boardwalk crossing wetlands allows an up-close view of the rewilding project. Although we don’t spy the elusive creatures (we see heron and plenty of moorhen), there’s still lots to learn. “It’s been a great success in inspiring the community to find out more about our local wildlife,” says Tom. Nature talks and guided tours of the beaver enclosure are in the pipeline, too.

Shrewsbury Square, Shropshire. Photograph: Nik Reates/Alamy

Back at my base, the 16th-century Lion + Pheasant townhouse hotel, I dine on pan-roasted trout in the beamed restaurant (there’s a popular wine and tapas bar on site too) and the next morning set off to walk the first leg to Ratlinghope. Crossing the River Severn, the city soon peters out and quiet country lanes lead to Lyth Hill Country Park where expansive views open up across Shropshire.

It’s a steady climb to Wilderley Hill, past fields of rape, bright patches of yellow in a sea of green, and I stop under an oak tree to picnic. There’s no one around, just the songs of wren and chaffinch filling the air. The landscape changes on the approach to Ratlinghope as the route traces a brook, crosses wooden bridges and winds through pretty woodland. Just off the path lies the 12th-century St Margaret’s Church, the burial place of 19th-century farmer Richard Munslow, the last known “sin-eater”, whose job it was to eat bread and drink ale over corpses to absorb their sins.

I enjoy a drink instead in the pretty beer garden at The Bridges. The seven immaculate, minimalist rooms are round an adjacent courtyard – and guests have access to a lounge above the pub, too. The food in the bar includes Guinness rarebit and duck terrine, while the light-filled restaurant focuses on organic fare from the owners’ regenerative farm on the Linley Estate and the Welsh Marches. I feast on huge radishes with anchoïade, and hake with fennel, capers and crispy polenta. Breakfast the next morning – homemade granola and poached rhubarb – is equally delicious. It’s such a lively, friendly place I’m tempted to move nearby for the pub alone. They’ll even drive locals home if they’ve had one too many, Sam tells me.

Blue skies and gentle sunshine greet me for day two of the hike, a 12-mile yomp across rugged moorland and pastures to Bishop’s Castle. The pub lies on the edge of the Long Mynd, a heath and moorland plateau, but I’m heading north to the Stiperstones, a national nature reserve with a wild, dramatic ridge of quartzite rock formations that pierce the ground. I climb higher, passing Devil’s Chair tor, watching skylarks and buzzards soar overhead.

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The Devil’s Chair on the Stiperstones Ridge, Shropshire. Photograph: Vincent Lowe/Alamy

It’s a beautiful walk. After several hours, a magnificent avenue of Linley Beeches line the descent into Bishop’s Castle, a pretty town of half-timbered houses. Bank House B&B, a Georgian renovation with an oak-panelled drawing room and five antique-filled rooms, is my home for the night. I pop into the Poetry Pharmacy where prescriptions are poems chosen to spark specific emotions, to be “taken” when required (I leave with a bottle of Joy). Although little remains of the medieval castle that once stood here and gives the town its name, the grand Castle Hotel, with its pretty gardens and welcoming restaurant, is worth a visit.

With more time, I could, of course, carry on and add another loop of the trail. But the train back home beckons – Craven Arms station is a short bus or taxi ride away – and I leave feeling pleased to have dipped my toe into a small segment of the Shropshire Way. As far as rambling weekends go, it’s ticked all the right boxes, and whetted my appetite to discover more.

The trip was provided by Visit Shropshire and train travel from London to Shropshire was by Visit England. The Bridges has rooms from £120 a night. The Lion + Pheasant has rooms from £140 a night. Bank House B&B has rooms from £110 a night. Luggage transfer was provided by Silver Sherpa and costs from £30 a day for 1-3 bags

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