I’M standing open-mouthed on the edge of the desert, south-west of Cairo, the magnificent Great Pyramid of Giza directly in front of me.
For 4,000 years it was the tallest structure on the planet, and it is the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still standing.
Here in Egypt at its base, with the heat of the afternoon sun radiating around me, I’m struck by its awesome scale and the astonishing human endeavour that constructed it in the desert 4,500 years ago.
Experts believe it took around 100,000 men 20 years to build this tomb for the ruling pharaoh Khufu, and mystery still surrounds the methods of its construction.
“Could they build this without belief? Could they build it without science? Could they build it without art?” says my tour guide, Dr Tarek Sarhan.
“Three things: Belief, science, art. This is the triangle of civilisation.”
A short distance away on the Giza Plateau is the Great Sphinx — a colossal limestone statue of a mythical creature, part lion, part human.
Even with its nose missing, this enormous creature still cuts an imposing figure.
History courses through the foundations of this captivating site.
But my four-day trip to the Egyptian capital is characterised not just by the old, but by the new.
Just over a mile from the pyramids, the $1.2billion new Grand Egyptian Museum has finally opened more than two decades after work first started.
The enormous building, covering an area of 470,000 square metres, houses more than 50,000 artefacts — and the centrepiece of its collection will bring all 5,000-plus treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb together for the first time.
Stepping through its pyramid-shaped entrance, the 3,200-year-old, 83-ton statue of Egyptian pharaoh Ramses II sits in GEM’s soaring central atrium.
Another striking set piece here is the museum’s Grand Staircase, punctuated by fascinating relics of some of ancient Egypt’s most important kings and queens.
I walk up, passing statues, columns, granite doorways and sarcophagi.
At the top, a vast window frames the three main pyramids of the Giza Plateau.
Here is where visitors will also find GEM’s 12 main galleries, but the main draw will always be the entire contents of the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamun, displayed together since it was first found by British Egyptologist Howard Carter.
The collection, of course, includes Tutankhamun’s spectacular gold mask, throne and chariots.
The collection, of course, includes Tutankhamun’s spectacular gold mask, throne and chariots
Standing in front of statues of kings and queens is only part of the picture.
At the city’s National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, I get to stand in front of their mummified bodies.
Located in the Old Cairo district of the city, this modern museum has a large and open exhibition space with artefacts spanning prehistoric times to the modern day.
But for its biggest draw, I have to descend to the underground Royal Mummies’ Hall.
This dark-walled, low-lit space is now the resting place of 20 royal mummies — 18 kings, including Ramses II, and two queens — displayed in glass cases.
Some of them are showcased with the coffins they were found in.
Sweet perfume fills the air
Shadows shift as visitors move through this superbly presented exhibition and there’s a sense that one of these mummified bodies might suddenly be reanimated.
There is certainly life to be found in Cairo’s vibrant Khan el-Khalili bazaar.
The intricate, linking alleyways of this open-air marketplace are lined with stalls selling everything from lanterns and candles to jewellery and figurines.
Colourful textiles and printed designs hang from walls and stands, and a sweet perfume fills the air.
Away from the buzz of the bazaar, the five-star Waldorf Astoria is an oasis of calm.
Located in the upmarket Heliopolis district, its high-ceiling, glass-walled curved atrium is part botanical garden, part chic Art Deco lounge.
There is certainly life to be found in Cairo’s vibrant Khan el-Khalili bazaar
My room here is spacious and quiet and the breakfast offering a lavish buffet selection with additional a la carte options and a pancake and French toast station.
EasyJet now offers year-round flights direct to Cairo’s Sphinx airport from Luton as well as a huge choice of packages with easyJet holidays.
If your visit here is brief, you won’t want to miss the sweeping and unforgettable views of this fascinating city from the citadel of Salah El Din.
This ancient fortification served as the seat of power in Egypt for 700 years and it remains one of Cairo’s major attractions.
Inside is the Mosque of Muhammad Ali with its stunning domes, towering minarets, ornate interior and huge central chandelier.
The vistas from this elevated position are wonderfully panoramic.
As I take my transfer back to Sphinx along one of the city’s upgraded highways, I remember the words of my guide, Dr Tarek, in front of the Great Pyramid: “Egypt is a story with no end.”
Perhaps nowhere is this truer than in Cairo, which is building on its past as it looks to the future.
GO: CAIRO
GETTING THERE: Flights from London Luton to Sphinx Airport up to three days a week.
Prices from £101pp return.
See easyjet.com.
STAYING THERE: Three nights’ room-only at the 5H Waldorf Astoria Cairo Heliopolis is from £780pp including 23kg luggage.
OUT & ABOUT: Book tours and activities at experiences.easyjet.com.
Entry to the Grand Egyptian Museum is from £24 per adult and £12 per child. See visit-gem.com.