visited

During a 24-hour visit, Bethany Gavaghan discovered the market town’s independent shops, cafes and winding old streets — and left wanting more

If you thought you had to travel hundreds of miles to cities such as Edinburgh for old town charm and a sense of being swept into a Harry Potter novel, think again — there are destinations far closer to home that are well worth a visit.

Reach’s Bethany Gavagha had never set foot in Shrewsbury in Shropshire and, despite having spotted some gorgeous photographs, she arrived with very little in the way of expectations. Writing for the Express, Bethany shared how she always preferred to keep an open mind when visiting somewhere new, and as she hadn’t done much reading or come across a great deal of content about it, she genuinely had no idea what to expect.

Shrewsbury was, however, previously crowned the town with the best high street in the UK by The Telegraph, which described it as a “beacon of light piercing the gloom”.

It noted that Shrewsbury boasted a healthy selection of quirky and independent businesses that give shoppers a “fine reason to escape the tyranny of Amazon”. Locals spoke with great pride about their town as a result.

Bethany shared: “I was there for almost exactly 24 hours, and I found out quickly that is the ideal sweet spot if you’re someone just passing through, as everything is conveniently located and easy to get to. “

Things to do in Shrewsbury

Shrewsbury is the kind of place where history is impossible to miss. The medieval market town sits within a loop of the River Severn, close to the Welsh border, with its winding streets, timber-framed buildings and hidden passageways giving the centre plenty of character.

The town’s location once made it strategically important, and Shrewsbury was first recorded in a charter in 901. Today, though, it’s the independent shops, cafés, markets and historic sights that make it such an appealing place to explore.

Shrewsbury has a particularly strong independent shopping scene. According to Visit Shropshire, independent retailers outnumber big chains by almost 50%, with boutiques and quirky shops tucked into the town’s medieval streets and narrow passages.

One of the biggest draws is Shrewsbury Market Hall, which has been voted Britain’s Favourite Market. The bustling hall is packed with food stalls, cafés, independent traders, arts and crafts and fresh produce, making it an easy place to spend far longer than planned.

There’s plenty to see between shopping stops, too.

Shrewsbury Castle is a Norman fortress sitting right beside the railway station, making it an easy addition to a wander around the town. For a completely different experience, The Quarry offers 29 acres of riverside parkland and nature reserve inside the loop of the Severn – a peaceful escape from the busy streets.

History buffs can visit Shrewsbury Abbey, founded in 1083 and made famous to many readers by Ellis Peters’ Brother Cadfael novels.

Then there are the medieval passages themselves. Narrow lanes and little cut-throughs lead off the main streets, making exploring Shrewsbury feel more like an adventure than a conventional shopping trip.

Bethany’s stay

Bethany stayed in a room that was somewhere between a hotel and an Airbnb, called Boutique Shrewsbury Rooms, tucked away in a peaceful corner of the town, just across the river and through a small park — just about manageable on foot from the train station if you’re lugging a heavy suitcase.

“I’d definitely recommend staying there if you enjoy a no-fuss approach to holidays, as you just let yourself in with a keypad and the room and the location were both gorgeous,” she wrote.

A coffee machine stocked with a variety of pods also earned a big thumbs-up from her.

Come morning, the first stop on Bethany’s agenda was a café boasting “with some of the friendliest staff”. The Shrewsbury Coffeehouse is warm and inviting, full of charm in its décor, with generous seating spread across two floors.

She opted for avocado on sourdough toast, which proved to be a perfect brunch choice — packed with flavour and finished with a scattering of chilli flakes for an added kick. Exactly what you need to set yourself up for a full day of sightseeing.

During her visit, the weather was far from kind. She said: “In fact, we actually received what I think might have been the biggest deluge of rain I’ve seen all year, but this led me to realise just how much you can still do indoors, which I normally find quite rare in older towns like this.”

Bethany kicked things off with a visit to the Shrewsbury Museum and Art Gallery, which offered a brilliant glimpse into the local area. She discovered that woolly mammoths once roamed the fields surrounding Shrewsbury — a fact Bethany found utterly captivating — and the vintage fashion collections were absolutely stunning to take in.

The town is a genuine must-visit for anyone who loves independent shops and cafés. There was even an outdoor food market offering everything from freshly baked goods to Indian cuisine.

“One place that caught my eye was the Old Market Hall cinema, which puts on everything from ballets to dramas and more,” Bethany said.

Noting the building looked “fascinating”, she added: “We didn’t manage to go in this time, but it’s firmly on my list for our next visit.”

In need of something sweet, her next port of call was a coffee shop called the Cat’s Pyjamas. It was a brilliantly quirky space — cocktails on the menu too — and a perfect haunt for indie and creative types. Bethany opted for their red velvet lamington, which was a solid 10/10.

“I would absolutely go back for more without any persuasion needed,” she said.

With a free afternoon to spare, Bethany loved wandering through the winding cobbled streets. “It was surprisingly calm for a Saturday, which only added to its charm. Maybe the weather played a part, but it definitely had that hidden gem feel compared to more hyped medieval towns like Wells, which have gone viral on social media.”

The birthplace of Charles Darwin, Shrewsbury is home to around 77,000 people and reportedly boasts more than 500 independent retailers and hospitality venues. That’s what “makes the town centre really stand out,” said Seb Slater, executive director at Shrewsbury BID.

Bethany said: “My favourite shop was a huge underground shop selling antique items, Shrewsbury Antiques Centre, which has been going for more than 30 years. I never buy anything from places like this but just walking around is an experience in itself.

With more than 50 individual traders, the range on offer is enormous.

Her final port of call was a pizza restaurant that she had strolled past earlier and earmarked as somewhere that looked well worth a visit. You can catch the mouth-watering aromas from several doors away, so it was an absolute no-brainer.

Dough and Oil has built its reputation on sourdough pizza, homemade sides and desserts, and boasts a fun-filled interior complete with a photobooth and mini football table. It ticked every single box.

She had said it before, but Bethany firmly believes the only true way to judge a pizza restaurant is to sample their margherita first — and she would give it 100% recommendation. With the visit drawing to a close, it was time to head back.

The train station was just a short walk downhill from there. She concluded: “All in all, it was a successful 24 hours, and definitely somewhere I’d like to learn more about and get to know again, hopefully with better weather next time.”

IT’S 10pm on a Sunday and I’m dancing alongside 50 strangers, an Aperol spritz in one hand and a skewered olive in the other.

I’m at La Ciclatera Sotto Il Mare, a bar tucked into the medieval walls of Bari in southern Italy.

This historic port city is the capital of Puglia, sitting in the heel of Italy’s boot on the Adriatic coast.

And it’s that same coastline I’m now gazing at, swaying to Italian tunes the locals know every word to as they dig into shared pizza boxes.

It’s a moment that really captures the city’s vibe, and is just one of many reasons to see it for yourself.

This summer, easyJet started flying to Bari from Manchester, joining its existing routes from Gatwick and Bristol. With a flight time of just under three hours, it’s a fresh alternative to the usual long weekend in Barcelona or Lisbon.

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Until now, Bari has largely been known to Brits as a stepping stone to the more famous corners of Puglia — but it deserves better..

Bari’s real charm lies in its old town, Bari Vecchia, where you can easily lose a whole day.

Its alleys twist between pale stone houses strung with washing lines, past tiny churches and crumbling shopfronts, before opening on to squares packed with restaurants, bars and trendy gelato spots.

Despite being on the coast, Bari isn’t brimming with beaches but there are still sunbathing spots — Pane e Pomodoro is a 30-minute stroll from the centre.

This small stretch of sand is easy to swim from and dotted with bars. It gets very busy at weekends though, so arrive early.

Those after a bit of culture should check out the Basilica di San Nicola, an 11th-century church built to house the remains of Saint Nicholas, the man who inspired Santa Claus.

A few streets away, there’s the 12th-century Castello Svevo, which has a museum and art exhibitions, as well as panoramic vistas from its ramparts.

But the biggest attraction in Bari is the food. It is the birthplace of orecchiette — the “little ears” pasta shape Puglia is famous for — and you’ll find it on most menus.

The best I had was at La Beuat, a modern seafood spot on a tiny square in the Carbonara district.

Every table was full of locals tucking into dishes such as grilled octopus and fiery spaghetti all’assassina — Bari’s signature pasta cooked in a scorching pan until the edges char.

Three courses for two with wine came to around €60 (£50), which is fairly standard for a good quality meal in the old town.

For more traditional vibes, La Cantina dello Zio is a family-run trattoria famous for its orecchiette with turnip tops.

Another favourite was Osteria del Borgo on Piazza Mercantile, one of the old town’s most atmospheric squares.

As I ended every evening with a stomach full of pasta, I was grateful for the short walk back to my hotel, the 4* Movenpick Bari.

Rooms are contemporary and comfortable and breakfast is served on the eighth floor, which has sweeping views of the city and harbour.

Bari is a great base for exploring the Puglia region and Ionian coast, where powder-white sands have earned it the nickname “the Maldives of Italy”.

Hire a car from around £30 per day to reach the more remote areas or let the train take the strain.

Polignano a Mare, the clifftop town famed for its beach carved into the cliffs, is fewer than 30 minutes away from Bari by rail.

Monopoli, with its whitewashed old town and string of turquoise coves, is also well worth an afternoon visit for a swim and plate of pasta by the harbour.

A little further afield is Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is renowned for its trulli (traditional cone-roofed stone huts).

That said, you don’t have to go far. Bari has more than enough charm, food and character to fill a long weekend — especially if you plan your days around what’s on the menu.

I RAISE my fork to my mouth and lock eyes with Stevie. My heart stops. He’s 6ft, super-muscly and has a cracking set of teeth.

He spends the next hour watching me eat by candlelight, and he’s there again at breakfast the next morning.

But far from being my husband or an admirer, Stevie is a blacktip reef shark simply enjoying his natural habitat at Oblu Xperience Ailafushi — a four-star resort on a tropical island in Male Atoll of the Maldives.

The country is known as the world’s most romantic honeymoon hotspot, but I was there to check out its wilder side,

Of course, this included dining at Only Blu, the largest underwater restaurant in Asia.

Sitting 22ft below sea level, it’s a way to enjoy the diverse ocean life, without getting your feet (or hair) wet.

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It’s not included in Ailafushi’s all-inclusive “Fushi” plan, but it’s well worth splashing out on (prices start from £95 per person).

I was just inches away from blue powder surgeonfish, humbug damselfish and dozens of parrotfish as I tucked into my decadent five-course meal — though I did feel slightly guilty as I stuffed forkfuls of the “reef catch of the day” into my mouth. I hoped I wasn’t eating any of their brothers or sisters!

As several sharks swam by, including the one I nicknamed Stevie, “oohs” and “aahs” spread like a Mexican wave.

This kind of restaurant could be gimmicky. But the food — which included pistachio scallops, tuna poke bowls and decadent chocolate desserts — was genuinely delicious.

Just a 20-minute complimentary speedboat ride from Male airport, Ailafushi is a more affordable choice than many Maldives resorts, with all-inclusive packages starting at £160 per person per night.

But for the comparatively bargain price (most four-star resorts average at £300), you don’t miss out on the luxury.

My over-water villa was stunning — exactly what you picture when you think of a Maldivian suite, with an outdoor shower, private sundeck and stairs that drop you straight into the pale blue Indian Ocean.

Each night, I drifted off to the soothing sound of the waves beneath my floorboards. And every morning, I threw off my pyjamas and jumped directly into them.

It was the same at Ailafushi’s more upmarket five-star sister hotel, Oblu Select at Sangeli, where there’s even a window in the floor for 24-hour ocean life viewing.

But if the idea of sleeping and showering above sharks and stingrays gives you the creeps, both resorts offer beach houses and family suites far enough from the shore to put your mind at ease.

You should get out on the water, though, if your fears allow. Especially as guests can pick up a snorkel and fins to use for free throughout their stay.

I’ve never seen such amazing sea life, with reef sharks, unicorn fish, eagle rays and turtles just feet away.

Like many reefs around the world, the coral is sadly bleached. But there were so many fish displaying vivid colours, it was like being inside a Windows screensaver.

If you’d rather stay above the waves, though, there’s still plenty to see and do on dry land and boat.

Guests can book local island excursions, fishing trips and moonlight cruises.

My favourite was the sunset dolphin cruise. They might be wild animals, but they certainly put on a show, leaping in the air and gliding along the side of the boat.

At one stage, there were so many gasps and pointed fingers, it felt like I was watching a fireworks display. Guests also have access to free pedalos, kayaks and stand-up paddle boards.

And both resorts also have their own spas, ELE|NA Ayur — perfect for while your partner, kids or hungover pals are napping.

At Sangeli, where guests get a free 45-minute treatment for every four nights they stay, a stress-buster massage melted away the tension I built up during the 14-hour journey to get there from London Heathrow via Dubai.

Equally dreamy was the full-body Balinese treatment at Ailafushi, where prices start at $50.

Life is equally indulgent at the more peaceful Sangeli.

Alongside couples’ massages and intimate dinners, there’s a phenomenal free kids’ club with puppet making, cupcake decorating, palm leaf crafts and scavenger hunts.

There’s also a slide that plops you directly into the sea — fun for all ages. I howled with laughter as I sped round the tight bends before crashing into the gentle waves at the bottom.

If you’re feeling energetic — or simply want to work up an appetite for your next meal at one of each resort’s four restaurants — try the over-water gym with one of the best views in the world.

You could also attempt a sunrise yoga class, if you haven’t had too many of the hotel’s unlimited cocktails the night before.

By this point, you’ve probably seen plenty of fish from your villa, perhaps snorkelled with several and spotted them during a boat trip. So why not try catching a couple on a sunset line-fishing trip?

Whether you’re a seasoned fisherman or, like me, have never picked up a rod in your life, it’s the perfect way to spend an early evening.

And you might surprise yourself. I went in thinking I’d have no luck at all, but ten minutes before our time was up, I felt a hard tug on my line and eventually reeled in a giant remora.

I squealed with delight (and perhaps a little fear) as it flapped about in front of my face. But I quickly threw him back into the shimmering water.

Despite being a Muslim country where alcohol is all but banned, booze is freely available at all tourist resorts.

They also take international holidays incredibly seriously.

I’m told Christmas is an extravagant affair with Santa Claus arriving on a flyboard or parasail before descending to the beach with gifts.

I was there for Halloween and they did not hold back — think eyeball cupcakes, a terrifying haunted house, and dark red cocktails served in blood bags.

Four waiters dressed as zombies even carried a “body” in a coffin through the restaurant at dinner.

Yes, it costs more to get there (return flights start at £785 with Emirates) than Ibiza and your hotel will be a little more expensive, but you’ll barely spend a thing once your feet hit the white sands. And truly, it’s worth it.

Forget the White Isle — make the Maldives your next trip.

There is no better way to explore a city than by foot, but not all places are as suitable for an adventure as others, as I found out during a recent visit to the world’s most walkable city

There is no better way to explore a city than on foot. Once touched down in a city, bag in the hotel and a fresh pair of socks on, the first thing I do is go for a walk.

It is impossible to get a feel for a place from the back of a taxi or from the elevated vantage point of a coach. You’ve got to start pounding the pavement, ideally without a destination in mind, and see where you end up.

On a recent trip to Rome, I set out from my central station hotel and marveled at the carnage of the Trevi Fountain queues, crossed the Ponte Sant’Angelo, and witnessed a coordinated group of ball-under-cup scammers sweatily fail to take anyone’s money. Last spring, I headed out into Benidorm, finding myself an impossibly cheap roast, a seafront pint of Guinness, and a ‘Good boys go to heaven, bad boys go to Benidorm’ t-shirt.

And so, in April, I applied the same approach to Seoul, a city recently named the most walkable in the world.

Do you have a story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

OPINION

Each year, Time Out conducts an annual city survey, this time around quizzing 24,000 people on how easy or not it is to discover given cities on foot. The ranking is based on the highest percentage of locals who rated their city’s walkability ‘good’ or ‘amazing’, and the South Korean capital tops the list.

“A city doesn’t have to be small to be walkable. In fact, Seoul is one of the largest cities on the list by surface area and population, but its impressive 93 percent approval rating from locals has secured the South Korean capital joint-first position. Why? Well, the city has a reputation as an exceedingly safe place to stroll by day and night, and is home to neighbourhoods such as Myeongdong, Insadong, and Hongdae, which are all primed for exploring on foot,” writes Time Out.

“Then there are the innovative pedestrian walkways, like Seoullo 7017, an 1074m-long elevated ‘sky garden’ which has seen an old inner city highway revamped into a stroll-worthy green space, home to 24,000 different plants. In downtown Seoul, the Cheonggyecheon Stream is flanked by a walkway that not only links many of the city’s central metro stations, but also landmarks such as Gwanjang Market, Jongmyo Shrine and Gyeongbokgung Palace.”

I could not disagree more.

Seoul is a fantastic city. It’s alive with a kind of youthful, optimistic energy that feels far removed from most places I’ve visited; it’s fearlessly trendy, and it’s centered on an urban mountain blanketed with cherry blossoms come the spring.

But walkable it is not. Seoul is a car city.

The almost unbelievably cheap cost of an Uber (we’re talking around £5 for a half-hour ride) means that hopping in a cab is far more common than in the UK, while the wide, four and six-lane roads that dominate much of the city encourage motoring. And produce a lot of fumes.

According to NASA, Seoul is one of the world’s cities with the worst air pollution, beating Los Angeles, Tokyo, Paris, and London. You can certainly feel it. On one crisp morning, I walked up Namsan, the 170-meter-tall hill in Seoul’s center. The view from the top would be spectacular, were it not for the heavy, shimmering cloud that hung over everything.

Walking back down, I started to get the vague feeling I’d done something wrong. I hadn’t accidentally offended a waiter or lost my hotel pass; it was the signs. Seoul is a city of signs. From the expected ‘no smoking’, to the less typical ‘no archery’, to the possibly unique ‘no hiking without a flashlight’, everywhere you look, some kind of rule is being transmitted to you. It doesn’t leave you with a feeling of freedom and exploration, nor do the CCTV cameras placed on tall metal poles in the city’s woodland.

It’s a place that’s big on rules and completely opposed to bins. Having finished a snack, I walked for two hours without finding a trash can. South Koreans are expected to take their rubbish home with them – a system that says a lot about the population’s diligent character, but one I find inherently anti-social.

As I do the lack of pavements that had me regularly sliding down alleyway walls to give way to cars, and the complete, frustrating prohibition of jaywalking. Couple all of this with the fact that the city lacks an obvious centre and is exhaustingly massive, and its status as one of the world’s least walkable cities is clear.

Given my love of treading the tarmac, it says a lot about how fantastic the rest of Seoul is that I left in love with the place. From the fish-filled waters of Cheonggyecheon River, the rusty octopus of Yongma Land, and the impossibly cheap but high-grade cosmetics, it’s a fascinating place that feels like it’s at the centre of the world. Just prepare to order a cab.

This city is a favourite among trendy, wealthy people – but I don’t see the charm.

I have been lucky enough to see a fair amount of the world not only in my role as a travel reporter, but also in my own time. However, after spending a long weekend in this popular European city I have finally discovered a place I will never return to.

Berlin is beloved by trendy east Londoners who pretend they don’t have a double barrelled surname and a trust fund. The city is full of even trendier Berliners who pretend they don’t have any interest in being cool, whilst still trying as hard as possible to appear so.

I have visited before and found the city grey, utilitarian, dirty and ugly. At the time I had a friend living there who told me the city would “eat you alive” if you let it – and I believed him.

I spent a weekend there and over those two days I stood in human faeces whilst walking through a park, watched people urinate in the U-Bahn, saw one man vomit and another man sit in it.

I was hounded by wasps for every hour of the day, and shady characters for every hour of the night.

I didn’t get eaten alive, but by the time I flew out of the city morale was low. I spent the next seven years vowing I would never return – but a twist of circumstance saw me packing my bags last Friday to spend another long weekend in Berlin.

My friends were visiting Europe from New Zealand, and the only weekend I had free time to see them was the weekend they were in Berlin, so I decided I’d give it another go. I was hoping my initial impression of the city had been wrong, and that my return trip would show me the real side of the city

Whether real or not, the side I saw was not to my liking.

The city was still as utilitarian and grey as I remembered. We stayed in Neukölln, a trendy artistic neighbourhood with plenty of coffee shops, späti (like off-licences but with seats outside to sit and enjoy a beer) and vintage shops. These are all my favourite things, but Berlin’s version of them was tinted with the greasy pallid feeling you get after a night out that has gone on several hours too long.

My least favourite thing about Berlin however, is the wasps. In late summer, they have reached peak population and ruin the city’s outdoor spaces. Sitting outside to enjoy a brunch, coffee or a pint becomes a feat of endurance as these angry insects swarm you, fall inside your pints, try to crawl inside your nose and mouth and generally make a nuisance of themselves. It’s also illegal to kill them, as they are protected under the Wildlife Act.

Over the three days I was there I had two of them die in my beer, and four of them make my £7 donut inedible.

My Berlin weekend was not all bad. I did find an amazing coffee shop near our accommodation called Leuchtstoff Kaffeebar. The coffee was delicious – perhaps the best I’ve had since I left New Zealand two years ago, and I enjoyed a Bircher Muesli that set me up perfectly for my day of wandering the city.

The café also serves pastries, and had a very cool mezzanine that you could climb up to via a ladder.

I also visited the Jewish Museum in Kreuzberg. Admission is free, and the building is truly something to behold. It uses architecture and art installations to create a feeling of absence and highlight the huge loss felt by the community as a result of the millions murdered during the Holocaust.

A large section of the building is below ground, with multi-media installations and plenty of information about the history of Judaism and their persecution in Germany. It was a sombre afternoon, but definitely worth a visit if you are in the city,

Despite finding a few things I liked about Berlin, overall my sense of the city was that it is without whimsy. I won’t say it’s soulless – but the soul it possesses is not one I care to find out more about.

FROM Art Deco architecture and superstar football to incredible Cuban sandwiches and sizzling nightlife, Miami packs a serious punch for a short stay. 

For Brits, it’s often combined with cruises from the Florida city’s port, making it the perfect start or end to a Caribbean cruise this winter.

The weather remains gorgeous throughout our colder months, with temperatures still in the mid to high 20s.

For first-timers, a stay on Miami Beach puts you right at the centre of the very best of this captivating city.

ARE THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? It’s America — so no, the car remains king. But that’s not to say there aren’t walkable districts.

South Beach and Mid Beach excel with their paved Beachwalk and pedestrianised Lincoln Road is a shoppers’ paradise with all the popular brands and a host of cafes and restaurants offering al fresco dining.

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In trendy Wynwood you can easily explore on foot to take in street art, galleries, boutiques and a buzzing nightlife scene.

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? Learn all about the huge Cuban influence on Miami on a food and drink tour of Little Havana with Miami Culinary Tours.

Over two and a half hours, you’ll stroll the streets learning how Cuban exiles transformed the city’s flavours and culture.

Among my favourites were the Cuban sandwich stuffed with roasted pork, ham, swiss cheese and pickles at Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocina, washed down with a perfect mojito and the crispy beef empanadas from El Pub.

But the tour also features stops at a traditional Cuban cigar shop and Domino Park to watch the locals play fast-paced games.

Another must is a stroll along South Beach’s Ocean Drive to admire the gorgeous Art Deco buildings — book a guided walk through getyourguide.com to bring the history to life.

And football fans won’t want to miss a match at Nu Stadium — home to Inter Miami CF, co-owned by David Beckham and famous for signing Lionel Messi.

WHERE SHOULD I EAT? Award- winning Austin chef Tyson Cole brings his very modern take on Japanese cuisine to Miami with not one but two restaurants, each offering a vast variety of unusual sushi, sashimi and nigiri paired with quirky flavours from citrus to smoke.

Uchi in Wynwood leans into the citrus while sister restaurant Uchiko is all about char and open-flame cooking. The vast menus can be a bit overwhelming but the brilliant staff will guide you and the quality is outstanding. Visit during the daily Happy Hours to enjoy it for a fraction of the price.

I FANCY A DRINK: Of course, for the in-crowd and those with deep pockets, there are plenty of stunning cocktail joints and seriously cool hotel bars on South Beach — including MILA just off Lincoln Road and the Matador Bar at the Miami Beach Edition.

But for those of us with smaller bank balances, taking advantage of happy hours is a great way to save. Sweet Liberty in Collins Park in Mid Beach has a popular happy hour from 4pm to 7pm with cocktails from £7.40 and craft beers from £4.50. Cafe La Trova in Little Havana sees waiters formally serving up Cuban daiquiris and mojitos.

Or head to Veza Sur Brewing Co. & Cerveceria La Tropical in Wynwood for an outdoor beer garden with pints from £5.20.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? For all the benefits of South Beach without the crowds, stay at gorgeous Art Deco gem, The Palms Hotel and Spa.

Just ten minutes by car from Ocean Drive and Wynwood, the hotel’s lush gardens feature a pool and tiki bar plus plenty of loungers.

You can stroll onto the stunning white sands where even more loungers and shades await.

The hotel has a great focus on sustainability — you can pick up a bucket on the beach to help tidy up and be rewarded with a free gelato.

The light and airy rooms have an understated, tropical vibe and the ocean views are stunning.            

DEEP in the forest, I’m watching tiny, rare frogs swimming and croaking (more of a weird squeak, really) in a flooded chamber at ancient Roman city, Bouthroton.

This is not what I expected in “the Maldives of Europe”.

Apparently someone, somewhere posted online a couple of years ago that Albania has some fabulous beaches with turquoise water like the Indian Ocean paradise islands, and the nickname stuck.

I’d long been intrigued by what was a communist totalitarian state until the mid-Nineties and had thought of it more as “the North Korea of Europe”!

So when I was on holiday in nearby Corfu, and discovered full-day tours operated, I jumped at the chance to see for myself.

The good-value trips are run by Tui-owned Musement and mine started at 7.30am with a 30-minute coach transfer from the hotel to the port, then a 75-minute ferry across to beach resort Sarandë in Albania, a coach pick-up there and a few hours of guided sightseeing.

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After a coffee pitstop, the coach headed south to the uncrowded, unspoilt Butrint archaeological site and its surrounding national park.

I’d heard of Butrint’s large lake but was not aware of its history, with human habitation here dating back thousands of years.

However, this visit took my group back to a “mere” 800 BC and the Unesco-listed ruins of Bouthroton founded by Greeks and taken over by Romans.

There’s a lot of walking on rough tracks in the forest and a fair few steps, so trainers are best.

Enthusiastic guide Lindita was a mine of information about the ancient forum, amphitheatre, public baths, aqueduct and almost 3,200ft of encircling walls, up to 23ft high.

A 4th-century earthquake affected sea levels, and the city was finally abandoned in the Middle Ages, with high tides causing flooding – but creating a habitat for those noisy little Greek water frogs and cute terrapins.

On to the adjacent national park, with Lindita explaining about the lake (actually a lagoon), which is linked to the sea by a 1.6-mile channel.

The rich birdlife includes the magnificently-named short-toed snake eagle while the mussels in the lake are hailed as Europe’s best.

Before the ferry back to Corfu, we had a brief photo stop at Sarandë’s Lëkurësi Castle – on an 800ft hill with outstanding views – and time for a chilled Albanian beer at a seafront bar.

The downside? It’s a 12 hour-plus day, with an agonising 2hr 10min journey back from the port to my hotel as other guests were dropped off. Still, I saw a lot of Corfu.

And while my included lunch was OK, I’ve never been on any excursion where water is not provided.

On the bus back to Sarandë – and from the ferry – I did spot some lovely beaches, but is Albania “the Maldives of Europe”? Hmm, not atoll. And there is a huge amount of unsightly hotel construction around Sarande and nearby Ksamil.

But the trip is an enjoyable, insightful taste of Albania and I’d definitely think about a holiday there. Maybe I’d even get to see a short-toed snake eagle.

Albania day trip from Crete, from £67pp plus port tax of 20Euros pp.

WANT to know what true happiness feels like? You’ll need to ditch crowded European beaches for mud-covered, chill out sessions and freezing cold lakes.

Earlier this year, Finland was named the happiest country in the world for the ninth year running.

According to the World Population Review, Finland scored 7.74 out of 10 overall in the most recent index – compared to the world average which is 5.57.

The happiness score factors are calculated across six categories including social support, life expectancy and freedom to make choices.

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The report also mentions that top-ranked countries tend to have a combination of a higher income average, longer life expectancy and great freedom.

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So on a recent trip to Finland, I really put those stats to the test exploring different parts of Finnish life and culture to find out just why they are so cheerful.

Saunas

If the Finns are known for one thing, it is their saunas.

With a staggering 3.2million saunas compared to 5.2million people, there is nearly a sauna per 1.6 people.

And until experiencing the sauna culture in the country for myself, I didn’t get the hype.

But being in a sauna is the ultimate relaxation.

And they aren’t all the same kind – you get saunas of different temperatures, wood-fired saunas, smoke saunas and so on.

My favourite was the peat sauna, where I covered myself in mud and let it harden before scrubbing it off in the shower.

It is meant to do wonders for your skin and I did feel very refreshed and clean afterwards.

Saunas are also proven to be good for your health, with benefits for your heart, circulation and stress levels – promoting relaxation, better well-being and a decent night’s sleep.

Free foraging

In Finland, there are Everyman’s Rights – a traditional legal principle that allows everyone to freely explore nature without the landowner’s permission or having to pay a fee.

Whether it be swimming, walking, cycling or even riding a horse, you are allowed to do it all – even on privately owned land.

As part of the rights, you are allowed to pick wild berries, mushrooms and flowers as long as they are not protected species.

And Finland is abundant with tasty berries such as blueberries and lingonberries and mushrooms, such as chanterelles and porcini.

I love UK forests and it is always fun to see different mushrooms, but having such a variety that are safe to eat is something a little more special.

Forests & lakes

Seventy per cent of Finland is covered in forest and 10 per cent of the land area is lakes.

With that in mind, there are a lot of lush green places to walk and open calm waters to swim in.

In total, Finland has around 188,000 lakes with the largest being Lake Saimaa, which is where I visited.

Despite the water being a chilly 17C, thanks to the Everyman’s Rights you can dip in and out as much as you like.

The refreshing dips truly are invigorating and very relaxing if paired with a session in a sauna.

Most of the lakes are surrounded by dense forest with towering trees that look like they have been ripped out of a fairytale.

You can spend even longer enjoying it as you are allowed to pitch a tent for a night or two freely.

Kota culture

Across the parks, forests and at the edge of lakes you will find these cosy-looking indoor-outdoor cabins.

These are actually nicknamed ‘kota’ or ‘Grillikota’ and are shelters invented by the indigenous Sami people of Lapland around 4,000 years ago.

Over the years, the huts have been modernised relevant to today’s uses and now they are usually hexagonal or octagonal wooden cabins along hiking trails used to grill sausages and make food while enjoying outdoor adventures.

Public huts, such as those I found on one of the many islands on Lake Saimaa, are unlocked and free to use and are usually managed by the Finnish Forest Administration.

There only tends to be one rule and that is that the space must always be made for the newest, most exhausted hiker who arrives.

Firewood is also provided for free at public kotas and you must leave no trace.

Less people

Finland is about 1.4 times bigger than the UK, yet the country’s population (5.2million) is just over half the population of the UK’s capital, London (9.1million).

While initially I felt a little uncomfortable when walking around Imatra and seeing no people, it means that everywhere is so peaceful and constantly clean.

The entire time I was in Finland I didn’t see a single piece of rubbish – but with an incentive of around 20 cents per bottle you recycle, it’s easy to see why.

WARM autumn weather? Tick. Big price drops? Tick. Bargain flights? Tick.

If you’re looking for a great family-friendly city break without breaking the bank, I need to sell you Porto.

We’ve visited Lisbon and the Algarve before and found them to be an affordable alternative to some of the top Spanish hotspots.

So it came as no surprise that Porto was named by the Post Office in a recent city costs barometer as the place in Western Europe with the biggest price drop in tourists costs, with costs falling by 15.5 per cent in 2025 compared to the previous year.

I was wowed by the affordable accommodation options I found for my family of five, with cheap-as-chips drinks and public transport to boot.

Two nights sleeping on a boat at the marina cost just €242 (£207), while flights can be found for as little as £18.99 each way.

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And it makes for the best bit of post-summer sunshine when temperatures are on average 23C in September, although is reaching 32C this week.

Porto is a lovely city to wander around and explore.

There’s the beautiful blue and white tiles on the churches and at Sao Bento railway station, vintage trams trundling along, a cable car to see the sights and a double decker bridge where pedestrians can cross the Douro River up high or down low.

And we weren’t forking out loads for cold drinks and ice creams when we needed a rest – glasses of wine were £2.57 (€3), a beer was £1.50 (€1.80) and ice creams were between £1.70 and £2.57 (€2-€3) a pop.

My top tip for keeping your city break in budget would be to avoid some of the expensive tourist traps that might not actually add much to your trip other than extra costs, especially if you have to pay for five people each time.

The Livraria Lello – supposed to be the most beautiful bookshop in the world – is beautiful but costs £13.70 (15.95€), working out to mor than £50 for a family of four.

My boys were just as happy to admire the lovely old fixtures and fittings in nearby shops – all for free.

An unusual spot that has won hearts recently is the McDonald’s in the former Imperial Cafe in Praça da Liberdade, reputed to be the world’s most beautiful branch of the fast food chain.

Inside you’ll find chandeliers, a striking eagle statue over the entrance and gorgeous art deco stained glass, along with your standard fast food menu.

It’s family-friendly swaps like these that can make or break your city stay.

Make sure to remember the tourist tax for adults and teens, which is £2.57 (€3) per person per night which you pay on arrival.

You can also squeeze in some beach time too.

We headed up to coastal town Viana do Castelo, which hosts one of Portugal‘s biggest festivals in mid-August, and our train fare for five of us was £57.50 (67€) return.

Porto is picture- and pocket-perfect, with laidback vibes aplenty. We could easily have spent much longer in the city, especially with its low-cost living.

Why not give it an explore this autumn?

WE MIGHT all be sad that summer is over but the good news is that an indoor waterpark that happens to be the biggest in the country has also just been named the best.

Of course, there’s a shed load of things to do already in Blackpool but on a recent weekend craving a dip in a pool, I made a beeline for the Sandcastle Waterpark located on the beach.

Sandcastle Waterpark in Blackpool is kept at a toasty 29C and has more than 18 waterslides and attractions.

The real gem of the show is the adult-only spa, hidden in plain sight in the middle of the waterpark.

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You’ll have to pay an extra £7.50 per person to enter the Sea Breeze Spa but it is well worth the money.

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When I visited it was quiet, with only one or two other people using the area, compared to the packed waterpark surrounding it.

Dipping in and out of the saunas and steam room was the ideal way to relax.

I spent half an hour in the salt inhalation room allowing my lungs to fill with warm, salty air and calm my nervous system.

There are also foot spas for the ultimate pampering and the loungers are great for chilling out while hearing the joyful screams of the waterpark around you.

The main waterpark area is obviously great as well.

The Master Blaster snakes around the park and claims the title as the longest indoor roller coaster waterslide in the world, stretching 250 metres.

There’s Sidewinder too, which is the world’s first indoor vertical drop slide.

Hovering over the edge of the half-pipe, butterflies flittered around my stomach anticipating the drop.

Before I knew it, I was tipped over the edge in my rubber ring, dropping metres down before being propelled up the other side of the pipe.

After, I ambled over to Aztec Falls, where in a rubber ring I dropped into a pitch-black bowl, swirling around like I was inside a waterfall.

There’s also Montazooma, where you head down a large drop and then whizz through high-speed bends.

A good family option is to head on the Duelling Dragon slides, where you can race side by side in the near dark.

If you don’t fancy any thrills, there’s also the option to be gently lulled by waves in the Typhoon Lagoon Wavepool.

The Ushi Gushi Action River is quite gentle too, where there’s a gentle current as if you were floating on a real river.

Little ones can have a splash in the Caribbean Storm Treehouse as well where there are water cannons and splash zones.

Tickets to the waterpark cost from £25.50 per person over the age of eight.

Tickets for kids between three and seven-years-old cost from £16.50 per person.

A GIANT glittery guitar hangs next to bright pink awnings and a huge sign that reads: “Dolly Parton’s SongTeller Hotel”.

The 12-storey building was one of the music icon’s final projects — and while she won’t get to see it open following her death at the age of 80 last month, it will ensure her legacy lives on in Nashville.

Parton was heavily involved in the creation of the 240-room hotel, which is a glittering addition to the Tennessee skyline and an absolute must-visit for fans.

It opens to the public on September 29, and I was one of the lucky few granted a first look.

A number of Parton’s costumes will be exhibited in the lobby in a nod to Dolly’s Life of Many Colors Museum on the third floor, where interconnected digital screens tell a 15-minute story of her life.

General manager Shannon Foster says: “We are expecting ­people to walk in even when they’re not staying here. We want everyone to feel welcome.”

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Hotel guests will encounter more moments of magical discovery as they move through the elegant building, where song lyrics are etched on to doorframes.

Guests can choose from four room categories — even the most basic of which has the wow factor. But those with cash to splash can spoil themselves with a night in the Acoustic Suite, which is completely geared up for songwriters.

Its living area comes with a keyboard, while drawer liners adorned with Parton’s famous quotes add a personal touch.

The most heartwarming element of the hotel, however, are the Six Sisters rooms on every floor.

“When the designers asked Dolly what she wanted most in the hotel, she replied that she’d always wanted to share a room with her five ­sisters,” Foster explained.

The result is a touching tribute to the Parton family bond — a suite with three double beds separated by candy-stripe curtains and a washroom with two showers and toilets.

The rooms are connected by a ­living area in the middle with a curved sofa, a side table painted with each sister’s favourite flower and a chandelier decorated with the siblings’ birthstones.

Foster considers the second floor to be the heart of the operation, though, with guests taking a lift up to a gold sparkling desk to check in.

Parton’s Live — cosy seating around a stage, and bar space ­created to showcase upcoming talent — sits opposite.

But the jewel in the hotel’s crown looks likely to be the late-night lounge Jolene’s, on the top floor.

It will open daily from 5pm and serve punchy cocktails, and a food menu to suit.

A spectacular view over Second Avenue and the Cumberland River — where the famous 4th of July fireworks take place — means Jolene’s will, arguably, have the best seat in the house for the celebration.

The hotel may be opening a month after the singer’s tragic death but her touch is everywhere.

It’s in the diamante trim on bottle-green barstools, in the corset lacing on the back of a pink ­velvet chair and in the words etched into the corner of a mirror.

“Dolly approved every single rendering that became a reality,” Foster said.

“The hotel is Dolly’s gift to Nashville.”

Parton’s influence on her spiritual home is undeniable and if you plan to visit, it’s well worth exploring beyond the hotel.

Her star in the Music City Walk of Fame Park, near the hotel, remains encircled with floral tributes.

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, opposite the park, has been running a special exhibition about the music legend for the past 17 months.

Dolly Parton — Journey of a Seeker is due to end in October but the singer is honoured throughout for her music and activism.

Parton, whose Imagination Library has gifted over three million books to children worldwide — unwittingly entwined her identity into Nashville when she debuted at the Ryman auditorium at the age of 13.

She would not have known she would return to that very stage bigger and brighter each time.

And she definitely would not have dreamed that some day, she would own a hotel just three minutes away from the auditorium.

This is Dolly’s parting gift to Nashville. And it’s worth working 9 to 5 to bag yourself a room.

JEDDAH: More than five decades after the greatest heavyweight boxer of all time, Muhammad Ali, visited Al-Balad in Jeddah, the memory lives on through a small family business.

It was 1972 and Mohammed Ba Zaraah was sitting in his cafe, The Bird Shop, when in walked the legendary American fighter and sampled the traditional Hijazi drink, sobia.

It was during Ali’s first visit to the Kingdom to perform Hajj.

Ba Zaraah’s son, Khalid Najee, told Arab News that he was only 12 in 1972 and not in the cafe when the great man came to visit.

“But the story was passed down to me by my father and the shop has remained with the family for more than five decades,” he said.

“My father told me that Muhammad Ali suddenly entered his small shop. He described him as a big man with a nice smile.”

Ali was accompanied by high-ranking Saudi officials and neighbors soon realized that a famous visitor had entered the shop.

Ba Zaraah responded to the unexpected encounter with a gesture of traditional hospitality.

“He immediately offered him sobia,” Najee said. Sobia is a cold drink often made using barley, brown bread or oats soaked in water, with sugar and spices such as cinnamon and cardamom.

For Ba Zaraah, serving Ali a traditional beverage was an instinctive act of hospitality. But after the boxing legend left the visit took on a life of its own in the neighborhood.

“The neighbors started calling my father ‘Clay’ after Muhammad Ali,” Najee said. Ali was born Cassius Marcellus Clay Jr., before adopting the name Muhammad Ali after converting to Islam.

His 1972 pilgrimage to Makkah is well documented, including photographs taken during Hajj.

Asked if he has a photo of the historical visit, Najee said: “Unfortunately, there is no photograph of Ali with my father.”

“There was no camera in the tiny shop that day and the encounter was never expected to become a piece of family history. Instead it survived through memory.”

The old cafe still exists and is currently undergoing restoration as part of the wider preservation and regeneration of Jeddah’s historic district.

For Najee, the restoration project represents an opportunity to carry his father’s story into the future.

“I want to name (it) Clay Sobia,” he said. “It is a tribute to my father and to a moment that connected a small Jeddah shop with one of the world’s greatest sporting legends.”