visited

THERE aren’t too many places where your ski run can be interrupted by a singing troll taking a poop, or by a giant snowman slaloming past.

But this is just part of the regular experience in Sälen, Sweden.

I’ve skied in numerous places across France, Austria, Italy and Andorra but have never seen anywhere even close to what the biggest resort in the land of Abba has to offer for beginners of all ages.

Sälen (pronounced either Say-learn or Sah-learn by locals) is like skiing on easy mode.

The snow is consistent, with few moguls or icy patches, the slopes are wide, mostly not too steep or too long, and it’s rare you have to wait for other skiers or don’t have room to manoeuvre.

For kids (and adults, who’ll want to visit at least once for novelty value), there’s the Troll Forest, with troll figures both large and small lurking in the trees to murmur and croon at you.

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The main ski school is Northern Europe’s largest — and the relatively cheap kids’ ski school, for ages three and up, has its own mascot, Valle the snowman, who regularly comes out on the slopes with the instructors to lead a trail of nippers down.

I’m told Valle did once fall over mid-run and his head came off, which must have traumatised a few pre-schoolers.

And talking of unique experiences, there’s even a world-first ski-through McDonald’s for when you get peckish.

All this is spread across Sälen’s four ski areas — Lindvallen, Hundfjället, Högfjället, and Tandådalen — and they are each covered by the same ski pass. which includes free ski-bus access between the different areas.

We stayed in the smallest of these areas, Högfjället, at the ski-in, ski-out Högfjällshotell — a 20-minute transfer from the refreshingly small and relatively new Scandinavian Mountains Airport, where it’s snow-covered as soon as you land.

If you pre-book, you can even hire a husky sled to transfer you and your luggage.

The hotel contains everything you could need, including a Skistar ski shop to get your gear, adjacent nursery slopes — and even its own cavernous nightclub in the basement, where the Swedish youth congregate for nights of excess.

I heard one young businessman racked up a tab of about £35,000 for vintage champagne a couple of nights before our arrival, and his group didn’t even finish the bottles.

Overall, my limited experience of aprés ski in Sweden was notable for the good-natured boisterousness of the locals, who were soon linking arms with us to sing Swedish songs and pulling us up to conga round the room to I’m Gonna Be (500 Miles) by The Proclaimers.

So, any downsides? Well, if you’re an advanced skier, there are only a few slopes that will offer much of a challenge (I would normally steer well clear of black runs but comfortably managed three here and they felt more like moderate reds elsewhere).

Also, the lift network is fairly old-school compared with better-known European rivals — there are quite a few button lifts and T-bar lifts involved in getting from area to area.

The main thing you need to be prepared for is the toe-numbing levels of cold that are the norm in Sälen.

During our days there it was -13C to -15C, with temperatures expected to dip to -20C the weekend after our departure.

I would recommend thermal gloves within your ski gloves, and maybe wool-lined socks and regular stop-offs for hot chocolate.

As well as the skiing, there is snowmobiling, which was great fun if a little scary (driving licence required).

We motored along, through falling snow, up to a remote mountain cabin where we enjoyed local-style waffles and hot chocolate.

The next evening saw us take a horse-drawn sleigh deep into the forest, warmed by reindeer skins on our laps and with flaming torches on the back of the sleigh.

We eventually arrived at a cluster of teepees, in one of which we enjoyed a dinner of blueberry soup (delicious) in an edible bread bowl and moose stew (soft and tasty) — with a home-made knitted beer mitt to cradle my drink.

The final mode of transport the next day was husky-driving, and after I got used to standing on my narrow perch at the back of the sled and controlling the speed on the narrow track by hopping on a large plough-style brake, I was able to admire the trail the eight yelping hounds were so excitedly pulling us along.

As is par for the course on the ski slopes, there are tall, skinny Norwegian spruces everywhere, and if you talk about a ski resort being blanketed in snow, this is more the full, heavy-tog duvet of snow.

The forests look, to a tree, like they’ve been liberally sploshed with icing sugar — giving wintry vistas unlike anywhere else I’ve seen.

However much Sälen might chill your fingers, its easy, freezy, trolls-in-treesy fun will leave you with a warm glow inside.

WITH my face contorted by G-force and hands gripping white-knuckle tight to the grab rail, I wondered what on earth I’d let myself in for.

Beside me, my 12-year-old son was grinning from ear to ear as he yelled: “I told you being at the front was the best seat to be in, Mummy!”

Europa-Park has just been voted Europe’s best theme park and boy, does it live up to the title.

We were rocked, flung, hung upside-down and rattled at speed over more loop-the-loops than I could count as we gasped, laughed and threw our hands in the air.

Close to the borders of France and Switzerland in the town of Rust, it’s Germany’s answer to Walt Disney World with 20 European-themed lands and 14 rip-roaring rollercoasters.

Visiting during the festive season adds even more magic as the whole site is festooned with lights ­— more than 3,000 trees are draped with fairy lights and baubles.

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Add a dusting of snow (real and fake) and a Christmas market complete with mulled wine and open fires and it is the ultimate pre-Christmas break.

Navigating the park itself was very easy with the dedicated mobile app that shows where all the rides are, the waiting times and the distance from each.

For tired little legs, a monorail runs straight through the park and the on-site hotels, offering a bird’s-eye view of the action.

We made our way round the miniature countries, each carefully themed with authentic food, drinks and world-class rides.

The Christmas market in mini Germany was a standout for me due to the many stalls selling festive treats.

The boy was much more interested in the Croatian zone, where the latest high-octane ride was drawing a crowd.

Voltron Nevera is a terrifying, record-breaking coaster that catapults riders at a 105-degree angle.

Despite the winter crowds, queues rarely topped 30 minutes, and outdoor patio heaters helped keep chilly fingers warm while we waited.

If you need a breather, the hour-long circus show — featuring world-class acrobats, clowns, and a live orchestra — is a festive must-see.

Also worth a trip is the 55m-high giant wheel, Bellevue, that graces the Portuguese area each winter with enclosed, heated gondolas to keep you cosy as you enjoy panoramic views across the park.

With temperatures dipping, a turn around the Nordic fjord lake that serves as a huge outdoor ice-skating rink is a winner — as is a reviving schnapps poured from bottles frozen in ice at Bar Glaciar.

Whatever the weather, you aren’t far from the warmth of one of Europa-Park’s six 4H hotels that come with the added advantage of early park admission for guests.

We checked into Spanish-themed Hotel El Andaluz and our room came complete with terracotta tiling, a huge double bed plus bunk beds and even a matador’s hat on the coat peg.

There was plenty of storage, the usual flat-screen telly and decent fluffy towels.

The only thing missing for this English mum was a kettle for a cuppa.

But there was plenty of tea and coffee on tap every morning in the hotel’s Don Quichotte restaurant alongside a hearty breakfast buffet.

My son was particularly impressed with the pastry selection while I stuck to the cheese and amazing bread selection on offer.

The staff were all incredibly attentive and the food was constantly replenished.

I would definitely recommend filling up here as the chilly temperatures and outside walking require sustenance.

One other top tip would be to book your evening meals when you reserve your room.

Festive breaks are hugely popular, and family-friendly hotel buffets fill up fast.

In contrast, the outside heated pool was empty after dark so we enjoyed an evening swim in warm water in the chilly air watching the fireworks from our hotel. It was really magical.

We saved the best wind-down for last: a short five-minute shuttle to Rulantica, the resort’s colossal indoor water kingdom packed with wild flumes, lazy rivers and an Icelandic-style heated outdoor lagoon.

To avoid the busiest spots, we treated ourselves to a private relaxation suite, complete with its own sauna, bubbly whirlpool, sofa, and TV.

Leaving my son to conquer the waterslides, I enjoyed a blissful lie-down, soaking up the heat to my favourite playlist via the sauna’s Bluetooth speakers.

It was the ultimate warm-up — and the perfect finish to an adrenaline-packed mother-and-son escape.

I assumed the Lapland decision was mainly about price — until I visited Lapland UK and started comparing it with Finland. The biggest difference between the two destinations isn’t always the cost

Few family getaways spark the imagination quite like Lapland. Snow-blanketed woodlands, husky sledding, reindeer encounters, and that crucial visit with Father Christmas make it the ultimate wish-list adventure for countless families.

However, with costs that can soar into the thousands, is journeying to Finnish Lapland worthwhile, or can you experience the same festive enchantment nearer to home at Lapland UK?

Having explored various methods to make a genuine Lapland expedition more budget-friendly, I understand that both choices have considerable appeal. The right option truly depends on your finances, your children’s ages and what you’re hoping to gain from the experience.

Lapland UK: Festive enchantment without flying

Lapland UK has established itself as a yuletide tradition for numerous families, providing an immersive seasonal experience at its Ascot and Manchester venues. Rather than being a conventional Christmas attraction, the experience is crafted to transport youngsters into Santa’s realm, featuring themed activities, enchanting forest settings and a private audience with Father Christmas.

It’s exceptionally well executed, from the invitation arriving by post to the children receiving the bear they helped make in the toy shop on Christmas morning; enchantment is interwoven into every element. The main benefit is sheer convenience.

There’s no need to arrange flights, fret about whether your little ones can handle the freezing Arctic conditions, or stuff an entire suitcase with thermal clothing. You can experience it all as a day trip, which makes it especially attractive for families with younger kids.

Our top tips for visiting Lapland UK:

• Take a spare bag with you to hide the teddies you’ll secretly take home with you, ready for Christmas Day
• Use the free time you get to explore every little detail in the village area and take all the photos
• Take thick socks with you for ice skating
• Wear comfortable shoes as there’s quite a bit of walking – and dress accordingly for the weather
• And finally… try the hot chocolate with popping candy – yum!

How much does Lapland UK cost?

For the 2026 season, standard tickets start at £60 per person, rising to £155 depending on the date and time of the visit. Booking fees of £4.95 per ticket and postage of £5.95 per booking apply.

This means a family of four could fork out roughly £266 for a date at the cheapest advertised rate, or approximately £646 for a £155-per-person slot, before factoring in travel, food and any extra spending.

The price gap between quieter dates and peak December weekends is substantial, so being flexible can significantly reduce overall expenses.

Bear in mind that tickets are in massive demand. The primary 2026 booking window has shut, though returned tickets might pop up.

For upcoming seasons, register for the official mailing list and be prepared when bookings launch – this truly is the Glastonbury of family outings.

Actual Lapland: an Arctic adventure

There’s something distinctly different about disembarking from a plane into a snowy Arctic setting. In Finnish Lapland, this isn’t merely a Christmas-themed attraction; it forms part of a far broader winter expedition.

Depending on where you base yourself, you could embark on a husky safari, glide through the snow on a reindeer sleigh, tackle a snowmobile excursion, build snowmen among the trees or simply revel in proper snowfall. A visit to Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi, exploring the breathtaking wilderness and, weather permitting, even catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights are all on the cards.

For youngsters, the real magic lies in the sheer sense of adventure. Rather than spending a few hours in a festive grotto, you’re immersing yourselves in an entirely different world together as a family.

Naturally, the weather comes with the territory. Temperatures can plummet well below freezing, daylight hours are scarce in December, and little ones may need more rest stops than you’d anticipate.

But with suitable clothing and a sensible itinerary, it can make for an unforgettable family getaway.

How much does a genuine Lapland holiday set you back?

This is where many families are deterred before they’ve even begun their search. Organised Christmas trips can run into several thousand pounds for a family of four, with prices climbing steeply around the most sought-after December dates.

As a rough guide, typical short-break packages for 2026 have been advertised at around £3,400-£4,900 for a family, though costs vary considerably depending on the operator, dates, accommodation and activities included. Always scrutinise the actual package inclusions rather than simply the headline figure.

That said, there is an alternative: booking everything yourself. At The Travel Mum, we’ve investigated how to experience Lapland without breaking the bank by arranging flights, lodging and excursions independently.

During one seven-night trip, our total spend came to £3,000 for a trio of travellers, encompassing everything from airfare and hotels to meals, getting around and entertainment. We successfully kept within our financial limits, despite adding a few special extras.

Low-cost carriers operating routes to Rovaniemi have made this DIY approach far more achievable. Our piece, Lapland on a Budget: Real Costs and Tips, breaks down how to organise a journey and identify potential savings.

Admittedly, it requires additional homework, and costs vary depending on when you travel, but it demonstrates that an authentic Lapland getaway needn’t necessarily involve shelling out for a pricey all-in-one package.

Five ways to make real Lapland more affordable:

Be flexible with your dates. December is the most sought-after month, and prices reflect that. November can offer better value, although snow is never guaranteed. January can also be considerably cheaper and is a great option if you’re happy to experience Lapland after Christmas. The Travel Mum Top Tip: If you visit in January, add extra magic for your kids by personally delivering your thank-you cards to Santa himself!

Check flights THEN accommodation. If you’re organising the trip yourself, flights are often the biggest variable. Once you’ve found affordable flights, look for accommodation that fits your budget and is convenient for the activities you want to do. Accommodation books up quickly, so you want to be sure you can find the right combination of flights at the right price, along with suitable available accommodation, too – before you hit book.

Don’t pay for activities you don’t need. It can be tempting to book every husky safari, reindeer ride and snowmobile experience available. But children don’t need a packed itinerary to enjoy Lapland. Playing in the snow, exploring the forest and visiting Santa can be just as memorable.

Check what’s included. Thermal suits, boots, meals, airport transfers and excursions can all add to the cost. A package that initially looks more expensive might offer better value if it includes things you’d otherwise pay for separately.

Think carefully about Santa. Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi is open year-round, so you don’t necessarily have to visit in December. Travelling outside the Christmas rush can help you save money, and you may find the experience more relaxed.

So, which option is right for you?

For households with very small children, Lapland UK can provide the ideal gateway to festive enchantment. It’s simpler to arrange, less reliant on weather conditions and considerably more economical than a foreign adventure.

Many visitors actually claim they favour Lapland UK’s yuletide experience over the Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi, Lapland.

However, if your finances permit or you’re prepared to invest the effort in planning an independent expedition, genuine Lapland offers something that’s challenging to replicate. The snow-covered scenery, Arctic pursuits and opportunity to spend multiple days fully absorbed in the location transform it into a proper holiday, rather than merely a festive attraction.

I’d also take into account your children’s ages. For younger ones, a briefer experience might prove more than sufficient. Older kids could benefit more from the outdoor pursuits and the chance to discover somewhere entirely different.

Ultimately, there isn’t a wrong decision here. We frequently place pressure on ourselves as parents to craft the perfect Christmas, but enchanting family moments needn’t come with an enormous price tag.

Whether you’re meeting Father Christmas in a snowy woodland in the UK or journeying to the Arctic Circle, what matters most is selecting an experience that suits your family and your budget. And if the genuine article has always seemed beyond reach, don’t dismiss it until you’ve investigated the costs of arranging it independently.

You might be surprised at what’s achievable.

ASK most kids if they fancy a trip to an art exhibition and you’re unlikely to get an overly-enthusiastic answer. 

But what if that art exhibition included a ball pit, an enormous bouncy castle and flying balloons? You might suddenly have a mini art critic on your hands. 

Step in the Balloon Museum, which last graced the UK in 2023 with its EmotionAir: Art you can feel exhibition at Old Billingsgate in 2023. 

It’s now back, this time at Immerse London on Excel Waterfront with its latest offering EUPHOЯIA – Art is in the Air. 

The concept of the Balloon Museum is that it’s a new way to experience contemporary art, with large-scale installations created by international artists including Turner Prize winner Martin Creed. 

EUPHOЯIA in particular, invites those artists to use air and inflatable materials “as a contemporary artistic language” that “invites visitors to explore, interact and see the familiar in unexpected ways.” 

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It’s fair to say all of this went entirely over my seven year old’s head on our visit, both literally and figuratively speaking. 

Because while it might be about art, it’s also A LOT of fun. 

Our first stop was a giant glass-walled room filled with enormous balloons that you have to push your way through to reach the end. 

There was also a room filled with large inflatable cubes that we used to build an enormous fort, one with an enormous bed that could fit 20 people and a giant Covid virus-style inflatable, among others. 

But our favourites were the huge ball pit bigger than a ballroom, the most enormous bouncy castle I’ve ever seen – at least 25m in length and filled with inflatables, a balloon whirlwind and a very clever mechanical tree that dropped bubbles filled with smoke. 

Of course, all of this also made for some incredible photo opportunities too. 

We’ve got about a gazillion grinning selfies from our visit – the hallmark of every great Millennial day out.  

So will my son now be requesting a membership to the Tate Modern on his Santa List? Probably not. 

But he will definitely be far more open to my next suggestion of a trip to a gallery… how to explain there won’t be any inflatables to play with once there is another matter altogether. 

Tickets for EUPHOЯIA – Art is in the Air at ExCeL London, Royal Victoria Dock, from £20 for children and £26 for adults, with family tickets from £59.

IT’S now easier than ever to get to the world’s largest non-continental island.

Greenland has opened a new airport in Ilulissat – the country’s third largest town.

The country is one of the least visited in the world, only welcoming 180,000 tourists a year (for comparison, the US welcomes that many tourists per day, on average).

The airport aims to connect Greenland to the rest of the world, costing an estimated 1.77billion DKK (£197million).

It is the third new airport to open in the country since 2024 as part of a huge project costing around £700million.

The new airport has a 2,200 metre runway which can host larger aircraft, allowing for international flights and as a result, making Greenland easier to get to.

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There’s also a passenger terminal that sprawls across 5,000 square metres for departures and arrivals.

One of the airlines that operates at the airport is Air Greenland, with domestic flights between Ilulissat Airport and destinations including Nuuk, Aasiaat, Qaarsut and Upernavik.

Air Greenland also launched a direct route between Ilulissat and Denmark’s capital, Copenhagen this week, which takes around six hours.

And Icelandair will operate a seasonal service between Keflavík and Ilulissat from June 3 to October 16, 2027.

The airport is currently ramping up its operations gradually but is set to be fully operation by summer 2027.

Jens Lauridsen, CEO of Greenland Airports said: “The opening is a historic milestone for Ilulissat, for North Greenland, and for all of Greenland.

“The three new airports in Ilulissat, Nuuk, and Qaqortoq fundamentally change how the country is connected internally and how Greenland is connected to the rest of the world.”

Near to the airport is the Ilulissat Icefjord UNESCO World Heritage Site, where you can see enormous icebergs as well as the local wildlife.

You could even head off on a whale watching excursion.

To get to Ilulissat from the UK, you will need to fly to Copenhagen, taking less than two hours, and then fly onto Iluissat.

This charming coastal suburb is just an approximately 15-minute bus ride from a major city centre and should be the next addition to your autumn travel plans

A coastal suburb located just a 15-minute journey from a major UK city deserves a place on your autumn travel list. Even with the cooler temperatures, a seaside trip is still a brilliant way to unwind and clear your head, and nothing quite compares to the breathtaking views across the water.

Last October, I spent a day exploring Portobello near Edinburgh on a bright but cold day, and I’m annoyed with myself for not making the trip earlier. With a thriving high street packed with independent shops, mouth-watering food options, and superb public transport links, it’s a perfect destination if you fancy exploring somewhere a little different.

A quick 15-minute bus journey from the city centre brought us straight into the town’s centre, and it was instantly clear that this location had something special about it.

Naturally, our first stop was a bracing stroll along the seafront. The weather was lovely and bright, though cold, but it felt quite refreshing following the hour-long train journey from Glasgow.

Portobello’s beach extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian-style promenade and vistas across the Firth of Forth. Being a sunny Sunday morning, it was fairly busy, with plenty of families enjoying walks and dogs happily racing across the sand.

The first aspect that caught my attention about the beach was how spotless it looked. It’s obvious that the residents of Portobello, or ‘Porty’ as it’s affectionately known, take huge pride in their surroundings.

I can’t help but wish I’d visited during the summer, as it’s easy to picture Portobello as a brilliant spot for sunbathing and maybe even a refreshing dip in the sea.

In 2024, Portobello was named the UK’s second-best coastal town by JoJo Maman Bebe, and its beach bagged a Keep Scotland Beautiful award, which really proves its charm.

Having worked up quite an appetite after our stroll along the shoreline, we turned our attention to the selection of eateries and pubs lining the seafront, ranging from massive pizza slices at Civerino’s to brunch and coffee at The Beach House.

Many of these venues offer outdoor seating, meaning you can dine pretty much on the beach itself — a truly lovely touch.

We went for Shrimp Wreck, a seafood spot boasting a small but enticing menu. This street food stall shot to fame after appearing on BBC’s My Million Pound Menu and is well known for its fish finger sandwiches — it even reached the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.

Naturally, I went for the dish everyone’s been talking about. The battered flaky fish fillets, mushy peas and quite possibly the best chips I’ve ever eaten, all tucked into a soft roll, was without doubt the messiest meal I could have chosen — but I wouldn’t change a thing.

Next up was a proper wander along the high street where we’d been dropped off by the bus. Tucked just behind the promenade, it was quieter than the beach itself, yet there were still plenty of folk about — and, importantly, plenty of shops open for business.

One of the standouts for me was discovering The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookshop packed to the brim with novels, cookbooks and a whole lot more. The shop itself was bright, welcoming and cosy — exactly the sort of place where you could lose yourself for hours.

They also put on events, including Q&As with authors, so it’s well worth checking what’s coming up if you’re planning a trip.

Cove is another spot not to be missed if you’re a lover of a good gift shop. It was absolutely bursting with all kinds of trinkets, from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, alongside gorgeous cards and irresistible chocolate bars.

Portobello’s high street may not be the biggest you’ll ever walk down, but it’s definitely one of the most charming. There’s a solid selection of food and drink spots, pubs and even an Aldi, so you’re unlikely to be stuck for choice.

One place we didn’t quite get round to, and which I’m already keen to revisit, is the swim centre. Tucked away in Portobello, you’ll find a genuine Victorian Turkish bath — one of only 11 remaining in the UK — alongside a gym and fitness studio, making it a firm fixture on my list for next time.

If you’ve yet to explore Portobello, it really is a brilliant spot for a weekend escape, even as the temperatures begin to drop. Its closeness to the bustling city of Edinburgh makes it an ideal spot for anyone craving a breather from city life, with plenty of food, drink and relaxation on offer.

The European destination might be best known for its luxury watches and expensive reputation, but this city break has far more to offer than meets the eye

Geneva may be most famous for its high-end timepieces, global standing and eye-wateringly costly way of life, but there’s far more to this Swiss city than first appears. Nestled on the banks of Lake Geneva, with the Alps forming a stunning backdrop, it offers a blend of historic streets, independent chocolatiers, and picturesque lakeside strolls.

In contrast to Zurich, Geneva has a calmer and more unhurried feel, making it an attractive option for a city escape without the crowds of a larger destination. It’s also easy to explore over a weekend, with many of its sights within easy reach of each other.

I travelled there to uncover what makes Geneva worthy of a visit and discovered a quiet, historic city, while staying at one of the most legendary hotels. The journey also took just over an hour from London to Geneva, making it incredibly convenient and swift to reach.

Following a trip to Zurich last year and becoming enchanted with Switzerland overall, I set myself the goal of discovering some of the less-visited destinations.

This led me to Geneva, which proved to be unlike what I’d anticipated. While it has a rich history, it didn’t feel overly crowded, and there’s a more relaxed rhythm to wandering its streets and along its waterside walkways.

The city is positioned where the Rhône River flows out of Lake Geneva, with the iconic Jet d’Eau fountain shooting spectacularly from the water. It’s one of the most instantly recognisable sights in the city, propelling a towering column of water skyward and creating a stunning backdrop for photos.

Strolling along the waterfront is perhaps the simplest way to soak up the scenery, with boats gliding across the lake and views stretching out towards the mountains on a clear day.

What makes this city particularly attractive is that you don’t need a jam-packed schedule to make the most of it. You can happily spend time meandering around the lake, popping into a café, browsing the shops and admiring the architecture without feeling the need to dash between sights.

Old town

No trip to Geneva would feel truly complete without a wander through its Old Town, known locally as La Vieille Ville. Perched on a hill above the city centre, this historic quarter is brimming with cobbled streets, charming squares, independent boutiques and cafés nestled within older buildings.

It’s a delightful area to explore on foot, especially if you enjoy uncovering hidden alleyways and one-of-a-kind shops.

The standout landmark here is St Pierre Cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century and towers prominently over the Old Town. Visitors are welcome to explore inside and, where access permits, scale the towers for sweeping panoramic views across the rooftops and out towards the lake.

It’s also home to the world’s longest wooden bench, measuring 120 metres. Constructed in 1767, it’s certainly worth seeing.

Another attraction worth discovering is Geneva’s celebrated Flower Clock, located at the entrance to the Jardin Anglais alongside the lake. Established in 1955 as a homage to the city’s distinguished watchmaking heritage, the clock merges Swiss precision with botanical craftsmanship, featuring thousands of plants and flowers to form its vibrant face.

Chocolate shops

Switzerland and chocolate are inseparable, so naturally, sampling some local chocolate was a priority during my visit to Geneva. The city boasts a rich chocolate-making heritage, with established chocolatiers and independent boutiques offering everything from bars to truffles to pralines.

Some notable names include Favanger, as well as other specialist chocolate shops scattered throughout the city. Each provides a slightly different experience, whether you’re after traditional Swiss chocolate, more intricate handcrafted delights or something special to bring back.

The Lindt shop located in the city centre is also worth popping into.

Cheese fondue

Chocolate aside, fondue is another Swiss staple worth carving out time for. Traditionally prepared with melted cheese served in a communal pot, it’s a comforting dish that feels wonderfully warming after a chilly day of sightseeing.

I chose to eat at Restaurant Les Armures in the heart of the Old Town and savoured a traditional fondue accompanied by crunchy bread and potatoes. Menus and recipes differ, but the dish is typically prepared with a blend of cheeses, white wine, and seasonings.

Hotels

Geneva boasts plenty of luxury hotels, but the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues stands as one of the city’s most iconic addresses. Established in 1834, it possesses a rich heritage overlooking Lake Geneva and combines the splendour of a historic hotel with the amenities and service expected of a modern five-star establishment.

The hotel sits in a prime city centre location, making it an ideal base for discovering Geneva on foot. The lakefront lies just beyond its doors, while the Old Town and upmarket shopping districts are easily accessible.

It’s the kind of spot that lets you spend the day touring before retreating to somewhere that feels detached from the city’s rhythm.

The hotel ranked among the most remarkable I’ve experienced, from its refined surroundings to the complete package. It brought another layer to my journey and afforded me the opportunity to witness Geneva’s most opulent side directly.

Rather than seeming like somewhere to merely rest between excursions, it felt like a destination in itself. The interiors strike a balance between timeless elegance and modern elements, fostering an ambience that feels sophisticated while preserving the building’s historic charm.

Its guest rooms and suites showcase unique design features and overlook the city, courtyard, and lake. The hotel also boasts an indoor swimming pool, a fitness centre and Spa Mont Blanc, providing numerous opportunities to relax after a day of sightseeing.

While the Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts are celebrated for their opulence, it’s not actually the priciest hotel in Geneva.

The most expensive hotel in Geneva is the Hotel President Wilson, a Luxury Collection Hotel, renowned for housing the world’s most expensive hotel suite. It’s a well-known luxury destination for diplomats, heads of state and international travellers.

Restaurants

Unlike expansive culinary centres such as Paris, London or Tokyo, Geneva is comparatively compact, which can make it challenging to locate restaurants. Fortunately, the Four Seasons houses several restaurants and bars, offering guests choices without needing to leave the hotel each evening.

It’s also incredibly popular with passers-by, too.

Amongst its dining venues are II Lago, which specialises in Italian cuisine, and Izumi, which serves Japanese-inspired cuisine. The hotel’s selection of restaurants and bars enhances its appeal to travellers who want their accommodation to be part of the complete experience, rather than merely a place to sleep at night.

Naturally, the Four Seasons is positioned at the premium end of the spectrum, so it won’t be within everyone’s price range. However, for a memorable occasion like my visit, or a getaway where the accommodation is meant to be a centrepiece in itself, it’s a remarkable choice to bear in mind.

Nearby destinations

One of the highlights of my journey was a day excursion to Annecy, a charming town just over the French frontier. I got there by FlixBus from Geneva, which proved a convenient way to discover somewhere new without needing to rent a vehicle.

Renowned for its meandering waterways, vibrant historic structures, and a stunning lake encircled by peaks, Annecy felt like entering a storybook.

With delightful lanes to explore, independent boutiques to peruse and numerous spots to pause for a crêpe or coffee, it provided a wonderful alternative to Geneva and was certainly worth dedicating a day to.

The Cotswolds village is often nicknamed the prettiest village in England, but it’s becoming increasingly busy

Castle Combe is frequently hailed as one of the most beautiful villages in England, boasting honey-coloured cottages, a centuries-old stone bridge and winding lanes that appear to have stood still in time. Nestled in Wiltshire on the southern edge of the Cotswolds, it has grown into a hugely popular destination for visitors hoping to soak up the charm of a quintessentially English village.

Yet despite its undeniable beauty, I discovered that the reality of a visit was rather different from the picture-perfect scenes that have made it so famous. Even on what I anticipated would be a quiet morning, there’s little question that this is gradually becoming one of the most crowded villages in the Cotswolds.

Visiting the village

Castle Combe is a historic Wiltshire village long dubbed the prettiest in England. Its reputation stretches back decades, with its traditional stone houses, old-fashioned windows, and flower-filled gardens conjuring up the kind of setting you’d expect to see in a period drama.

However, that very same charm is precisely what draws so many visitors to the village. What ought to feel like a tranquil stroll through a historic setting can instead leave you feeling as though you’re wandering through a film set.

Having visited numerous times over the years, whether passing through on short walks or staying at nearby hotels, it’s clear the crowds are growing with every visit.

It also got me thinking about the village’s residents, particularly those living in the stunning cottages overlooking the stone bridge. Castle Combe’s own visitor guidance urges people to be respectful of residents’ privacy, and to refrain from photographing homes or obstructing roads and gateways.

Parking

Parking is another potential headache if you’re not local. The village’s narrow, historic streets were never built to accommodate heavy volumes of traffic, and parking in the centre is extremely limited.

Visitors are directed to the designated car park at Dunns Lane, from where it’s a short walk down into the village. Parking right in the heart of the village isn’t a realistic option for most visitors, and spaces can fill up quickly during the summer months.

Things to do

Castle Combe is undeniably picturesque and a joy to stroll through, but it is also incredibly compact. Unlike other Cotswold villages, there is no bustling high street lined with independent shops to explore.

The key attractions include the historic Market Cross, St Andrew’s Church, the stone bridge spanning the By Brook and the charming cottages lining the village street.

You can take a leisurely wander, admiring the architecture, grab a bite to eat and explore the surrounding footpaths, though a couple of hours is really all you need.

Is it worth visiting?

Castle Combe is the kind of village that feels truly unique in England. It’s a place that draws a great many visitors, yet it doesn’t always deliver the most satisfying experience.

If you’re already making your way through the Cotswolds, a brief stop to take in the village could be worthwhile — but it wouldn’t justify a dedicated trip on its own.

GOBBLING up sandy scraps of seaweed from the beach floor certainly isn’t the norm for me on a coastal stroll.

But it was for the residents of Guernsey between the 12th and 16th Centuries. And it’s a tradition that’s now coming back into fashion.

Nutrient-packed seaweed, abounding all over Guernsey, is free for the picking and just one of the many ways the island benefits from being surrounded by super-clean waters in the Channel.

I joined Guernsey Seaweed on one of its foraging tours of Havelet Bay and learned the marine plants here are in big demand at the island’s fanciest restaurants.

The slippery green stuff features heavily on a sophisticated menu at Michelin-starred Vraic, woven into cocktails and also adding a punch to rich broths.

After feasting on some pepper dulse, dubbed the truffle of the sea, I can completely see why chefs love it so much. There’s nothing of the fishy taste you would expect.

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Instead, I’m hit with a garlicky umami flavour.

The earthy and delicious taste, I’m told, is down to the warm temperature of the sea around the island, just 27 miles off France’s Normandy coast.

The Gulf Stream ensures the water here rarely dips below 8C in winter — which is why you’ll spot locals swimming year round.

Admittedly, even 13C felt like too much of a chill for me. But if you plan your trip well, you can ensure you combine a swim with a post-dip sauna session to warm up.

There are two mobile saunas on the island, Hot Haus and Rock Box, which can be booked online and are just a stone’s throw from the sea.

Rock Box, a converted, eucalyptus-infused horsebox, overlooks the Cobo Slipway in summer and features a huge window allowing those inside to soak up soothing coastal views while they sweat.

And sweat, I sure did. Conveniently, there are several watering cans, filled with icy water, positioned by the sauna door for guests to use in between ten to 15-minute stints in the heat.

The sauna was a treat that my limbs most definitely appreciated after a strenuous Pilates class earlier that morning.

Pilates instructor Lydia Cherry runs both Reformer and mat sessions at the Forme studio in St Andrews, for locals and holidaymakers alike.

Despite the moves seeming gentle, my abs were quivering within a matter of seconds as I was put through my paces.

If you prefer something a little more gentle, though, beachfront or paddleboard yoga are both popular choices for holidaymakers seeking a wellness fix.

That’s if you have enough strength left after tackling the island’s scenic coastal paths, though.

Guernsey is so small — around 24 square miles — that you can walk its coast in just a few days.

One of the more manageable treks — and beautiful — is the short 45-minute route from St Peter Port to Fermain Bay, combining fabulous coastal views with dense woodland that’s carpeted in bluebells during spring.

Reward your efforts afterwards with a tasty pint of local Rocquette cider — which uses some of that famed seaweed — at the Beach Cafe.

From my picnic table, perched just above the water, I could watch the foamy waves while listening to the birds overhead.

Make sure to order yourself a super-fresh crab sarnie, too, which comes loaded to the max and smothered in mayo. Delicious.

And that word can be used to describe the fare at many of the island’s restaurants.

Michelin-recommended Alba, in St Peter Port, in particular, strives to keep dishes local and serves up elegant sharing plates.

Its homemade tagliolini with Shetland mussels in a white wine and lemongrass sauce is an absolute steal at £15.

Wash it down with an Alba Tomatini, a classic martini with tomato twist (£11.50), and you’re in for a good night.

For a more casual bite, the Fleur du Jardin does classic pub grub, from fish-and-chips to bangers and mash.

It also has 14 boutique bedrooms upstairs that are as charming as the old-fashioned, stone-wall pub itself with its sea-themed decor.

The only thing that’s missing is a bit of seaweed.

This quaint town in Somerset has been named one of the best places to live in the UK time and time again – so I headed back to find out what all the fuss is about

I recently found myself back in Somerset for the first time in several years, taking a nostalgic journey with my friend who had flown halfway across the globe to mark their mum’s 60th birthday. A road trip from the capital to sweeping fields of countryside felt like the perfect way to spend a crisp autumn weekend.

My friend is originally from Frome, Somerset, but now lives on the shores of New South Wales. I hadn’t visited this charming West Country town for nearly eight years, yet had noticed its name cropping up in headlines as one of Britain’s finest places to live.

In fact, it appeared so frequently that I’ve lost track. It featured once more on Muddy Stiletto’s Top 260 Best Places to Live in 2025.

I’d never given it much thought, as Frome has always simply been my mate’s hometown, but if it’s collecting awards repeatedly, there must be something I’ve overlooked over the past decade.

What’s more, Frome’s Rye Bakery also earned a mention in Britain’s Best Bakeries by Milly Kenny Ryder. The Times even branded the town “Wokeville”, home of the “conscious hipster”. Yet to me, it’s always been a tight-knit community hub that’s cricket-obsessed, where everybody knows one another, and where pints are shockingly affordable compared to London prices.

Nestled on the edge of the Mendip Hills, Muddy Stilettos described Frome as a “community-minded town packed with arty, artisan shops, eateries and other businesses, with an indie cinema and a music venue where the likes of Paul McCartney ‘just pop in’. And it hosts the best designer-maker-producer street market in the West.”

Either I’d never properly clocked it before or the town has experienced a remarkable transformation during my eight-year absence. The town centre, filled with cobbled side streets that climb upwards, is lined with tiny boutiques and quirky independent shops, stocking everything from vintage clothing and antiques to its very own apothecary emporium.

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Streets like Cheap Street and Catherine Hill are packed with independent retailers, upmarket coffee shops, and sufficient micropubs and wine bars to keep you busy for ages. What Muddy Stilettos celebrated as “interesting indies”, my mate’s mum labelled “artisanal… and we aren’t the artisanal type”.

Another draw for both locals and visitors from further away is Frome’s abundance of markets, which by pure coincidence were running the weekend I wasn’t there. At the Frome Independent Market you’ll discover designer makers alongside artisan food and drink producers.

You’d struggle to spot many chain shops or restaurants here, which is brilliant if you’re keen to avoid the overwhelming presence of typical high street brands. I spotted just one Costa Coffee, and that was it.

My first real stop was Rye Bakery at its Station Approach site. The other branch can be found inside a church on Whittox Lane.

Even the old railway house at the station has been transformed into a compact independent food market and events venue. Alongside Rye Bakery, you’ll discover its sister wine bar, cheesemonger The Cheese Lord, Indian and Trinidadian street food, a charcutier, another wine bar, plus a community sauna and cold plunge.

Oh, and there’s a milk vending machine thrown in for good measure. You genuinely wouldn’t need to venture beyond the station.

Naturally, it would be churlish not to sample Rye’s offerings. I devoured a cinnamon bun alongside my iced coffee (on a freezing cold Sunday morning), plus a special sandwich crammed full of salami, Glastonbury cheddar, and salsa verde mayo.

It’s precisely the sort of fare I crave from a bakery, though I can appreciate that to some it might appear a touch… gentrified. The sandwich was bursting at the seams, with the heat of the salami tempered by the zesty mayo and punchy cheddar. All these trendy new bakeries have turned the humble sarnie into something rather fashionable.

Rye’s cinnamon bun proved just as delightful as the sandwich, boasting soft, fluffy dough and beautifully spiced cinnamon sugar. Not overly sickly sweet, but sweet enough to satisfy my appetite.

We even discovered an Australian serving behind the counter, and if that’s not an indication of quality coffee, I don’t know what is.

It was also pleasant to revisit some of the neighbourhood drinking establishments. You’ll encounter a mixture of traditional country pubs or independent craft beer venues. Personally, I’d head just beyond the town limits for an authentic taste of Somerset living.

I nearly shed a tear when I discovered a pint of cider for under £6. It makes me appreciate just how costly London has become, and truly, that the prices needn’t be as eye-wateringly steep as they are.

Frome has both evolved and remained unchanged. It’s still the same charming Somerset town where everybody knows everybody; where the tranquillity of the town centre feels so unfamiliar to someone from London.

The residents may not have altered, but it appears the atmosphere has, attracting a fresh generation of people to its cobbled streets. There’s a feeling of togetherness that you only encounter in small towns like Frome.

It offers an escape from hectic urban existence, where you can retreat into the countryside within moments rather than hours. It may not be exactly the same Frome I recall, but I’ll always maintain a warm attachment to the town.

There’s something special about this place, known for its laid-back vibe and thriving bohemian culture, and what I think is arguably one of Britain’s best high streets.

Living in London, life can sometimes feel rather frenetic. While I adore city living, I do try to escape at least a few times a year to properly unwind.

Among my favourite retreats is Totnes, a market town renowned for its relaxed atmosphere and delightful high street, celebrated for its artistic community and flourishing bohemian spirit. It also boasts, in my view, one of Britain’s best high streets.

Beginning at the lower end of the street, you can cross the bridge spanning the River Dart and truly absorb the town’s character from there.

During the summer months, the town is adorned with vibrant bunting, while small boats drift across the water.

In autumn, it’s equally gorgeous, as the trees turn red and gold and the high street lights up with cosy shop fronts to escape from the biting wind.

There is abundant riverside greenery, and the town buzzes with energy. After crossing the bridge, pop into The Curator for a coffee – the first of numerous independent establishments scattered along the high street

The coffee is excellent, and they offer a delightful range of pastries if you fancy settling down for a snack – though don’t overindulge, there’s plenty more to discover.

The high street climbs gradually upwards and is flanked by hundreds of independent retailers, charity shops and tearooms.

Further along the high street, you’ll find the Cornish Bakery, which fills the street with the delicious savoury scent of pasties. They cater for all tastes; even my vegan brother discovered something he truly enjoyed.

As the high street curves round to the left, you’ll come across Butterworth’s Vintage Co, a compact yet impressive secondhand shop stocking everything from knitwear to workwear and even vintage magazines.

Once you’ve had a good root through the merchandise, you might fancy a swift drink or perhaps another bite to eat – and you’re in luck.

Just a short walk from Butterworth’s sits The Bull Inn, a fantastic establishment boasting an extensive organic food menu alongside nine guest rooms, should you need somewhere to stay for the night.

The highlight of The Bull Inn for me is its delightful garden, where you can kick back in the sunshine and watch the world go by. Situated directly across the car park, and much like the rest of the town, it’s frequently adorned with gorgeous bunting.

On a glorious day, it’s truly hard to beat – and if you’re anything like me, you’ll be more than ready to take the weight off your feet after all that browsing along the high street.

FORGET Santa in Lapland or skiing in France – when winter rolls around you’ll find me sunning myself abroad, trying to find some last-minute warmth to break up the UK’s long, grey months.

Having visited 58 countries as the Deputy Travel Editor, I’ve found some fantastic places that tick all the boxes of a winter sun break, without costing a fortune.

By that, I mean warm weather, direct flights (keeping them under seven hours, for any long-haul flight haters) and some very big bargains when it comes to hotels and beers.

So here are my favourite winter sun spots, some of which aren’t that far – and with hotels from £35 a night.

Marrakech

One of my favourite spots for winter sun that doesn’t break the bank is Morocco.

I’ve explored the Hassan II Mosque of Casablanca, and visited the beaches of Agadir.

But I think the best bargain is found in Marrakech.

Not only is it perfect for some pre-Christmas shopping – I found fantastic dupes of expensive branded candles and curtains in the souks – but you can still get temperatures just above 20C in winter.

Food is cheap too, as you’ll pay just a few pounds for a freshly-made tagine meal.

For an affordable hotel stay, skip the big name chains and go for a local riad – small traditional Moroccan hotels – which you can find for as little as £35 on websites such as Booking.com and Airbnb.

These are usually fantastic locations, and usually with some free mint tea or breakfast thrown in.

Flights are cheap too – Ryanair fly there from £14.99.

We found a deal for a seven-night stay at Aqua Mirage Club from November 26, with return flights from Manchester, for £379pp on Loveholidays.com.

Cape Verde

African island, no jet lag and flights under seven hours – enter Cape Verde.

Where else can you get all-inclusive holidays from £586pp, where you’ll be basking in 27C heat?

While lots of people head to the island of Sal, I much prefer Boa Vista.

Most of the TUI hotels are right on the beach, with swim-up bars and waterparks.

But leaving the resort is worth it too.

I found white sand beaches like Santa Monica with barely anyone on them, making me feel like I was on a Maldives private island instead.

My favourite was Praia Carlota, where you can lose the days in the hippy Morabeza beach hut with fried fish and local Strela beer.

Sand-boarding, kite-surfing, boat trips; visit in February and you can go whale-watching during humpback mating season too.

We found a deal for a seven-night stay at Hotel Pontao from November 30, with return flights from London Gatwick, for £430pp at On The Beach.

El Gouna

When it comes to Egypt, one of my favourite destinations for winter sun is El Gouna.

Flights there are around 5hr30 which go to Hurghada, with a short transfer.

The gated community means it is extremely safe as only people staying at the hotels can enter, and its still around 25C in December.

Hop on a boat to explore the man-made lagoons, or go on Sunset Desert Safaris, with hiking and stargazing with El Gouna Mountain Goats.

If you don’t mind going further afield, you can even book day trips to Luxor (just expect a very early start).

When it comes to choosing a place to stay, I highly recommend Cook’s Club.

The four-star resort has it all – fantastic restaurant, lagoon-front pool, live DJs, and rooms are super chic.

And seven night stays are as little as £509 each with your flights and breakfast with loveholidays.

We found a deal for a seven-night stay at Doubletree By Hilton Mangroovy El Gouna Resort from December 9, with return flights from London Gatwick, for £379pp at Loveholidays.

Tenerife

If you’re keen not to go much further than Spain for your winter holiday, your best bet is to head to Tenerife which is often considered the warmest of the island (due to its location off the African coastline).

Temperatures are around 22C – not hot but warmer than the UK highs of 9C.

Holidays are a bargain – loveholidays has December seven-night stays for under £200 – but I highly recommend The Ritz-Carlton Tenerife.

The dusty pink building looks like something from a fairytale, complete with beautiful suites and a hidden beach you can get to by funicular.

Seven night holidays here can be found for £797pp with flights and breakfast thrown in.

If you can drag yourself away from the hotel, there are some fantastic outdoor adventures on the island such as whale watching and hiking.

Otherwise get ready for a night out on the town of Playa de las Américas, where you will find the best bars and restaurants.

Try Spain’s cheap chain 100 Montaditos, called the Wetherspoons of Spain where sandwiches are €1 (80p) and beers are €1.50 (£1.29).

We found a deal for a six-night stay at BLUESEA Interpalace from November 15, with return flights from London Stansted, from £349pp at Lastminute.com.

Dubai

Forget the idea Dubai has to be expensive – I have the best tips on how to do it affordably (while still having fun and soaking up sun).

The United Arab Emirates is currently on the safe to travel list, with Emirates still offering daily flights from the UK.

First, the hotels – I was blown away by the Premier Inns here, which are just as cheap as the UK at around £30, but some come with rooftop swimming pools. Yes, really.

Beach clubs can also be done on a budget.

Some, like DRIFT, can cost a little as £30 midweek, which can be used against your food and drink (with Ladies Days costing just £20 instead) while others like Lucky Fish are currently free to visit Monday to Thursday.

And lunch deals let you visit some of the famous restaurants without the price, like Ce La Vie offering a three-course meal for £28 rather than their dinner menu which has £30 dishes alone.

But my favourite place to go was the Grand Souk, where you’ll find breads stuffed with cheese or Nutella for £1.22, or Iranian falooda — a sorbet-like dessert made of thin rice noodles and syrup — for £1.

Return flights from the UK can currently be found for around £500.

We found a deal for a six-night stay at Ibis Styles Dubai Jumeira from November 11, with return flights from London Gatwick, from £867pp with TUI.

Doha

Similar to Dubai yet often overlooked, Doha makes for a great winter sun destination without too long of a flight.

Flights from the UK are with Qatar Airways – often being named one of the world’s best airlines – and take around 6hr40 (and around £530 return).

It is a great ‘luxury on a budget’ for some royalty without the riyal.

My favourite hotel to go for is The Ned; while not ‘cheap’ it is much cheaper than the one in the UK and feels much fancier than it costs.

As little as £102 a night (compared to London’s £330), it’s retro glamour with gorgeous interiors and an outdoor swimming pool.

If you just want a base, there are also Premier Inn hotels for around £28 a night.

Taxies are cheap, it feels very safe as a woman travelling around and one of the best attractions is affordable – go to the National Museum of Qatar (currently around £5 entry).

Otherwise head straight to the beach clubs – for example, Doha Beach Club is around £12 each (or ladies visit on Tuesday for free). What more could you want?

We found a deal for a seven-night stay at Steigenberger Hotel Doha from January 17, with return flights from London Stansted, from £705pp with On The Beach.

THE view from the top of the High Temple at Lamanai is one you will struggle to find anywhere else. 

Most of the great Mayan sites, including Mexico’s Chichen Itza, stopped visitors climbing their pyramids years ago.  

Here, you can still haul yourself up the worn stone steps to the summit and look out across the treetops. 

It is one of many surprises in Belize, a former British colony, squeezed between Mexico and Guatemala on the Caribbean coast. 

Roughly the size of Wales, it packs in ancient ruins, thick rainforest and the second-largest barrier reef in the world. And English is the official language. 

I spent a week there, starting deep in the rainforest of the north before heading south to the beach. 

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My first stop was Chan Chich Lodge, on the Gallon Jug Estate in the north-west of the country, which is surrounded by a 30,000-acre private reserve.

Almost everything on the menu comes from the estate’s own organic farm, and I explored the grounds and saw the free-range animals that supply the kitchen. 

The estate grows its own coffee too. It was so good that I came home with a few bags stuffed in my case. 

The best way to see the surrounding rainforest is on horseback, on a guided ride along the trails around the lodge.

Braver guests can head out after dark on a night safari in open-top trucks, with a chance of spotting jaguars and tapirs, Belize’s shy, pig-like national animal. 

Lamanai, home to that High Temple, is a day trip from the lodge. It is two hours by road, then 45 minutes by boat up the New River. 

Its name means “submerged crocodile” in Yucatec Maya, a nod to the crocs that still lurk in the lagoon beside the ruins. 

People lived here for more than 3,000 years, far longer than at most Mayan cities. 

You wander past the Jaguar Temple and the Mask Temple, with its giant carved stone faces, before tackling the High Temple itself.

The steps are steep and worn smooth, with handrails on some stretches, but the view over the rainforest from the top is worth every puff. 

Then it was time to swap the jungle for the beach. I flew south to the coast with domestic airline Tropic Air.

The little propeller plane is half the fun. As you near the coast, the Belize Barrier Reef appears beneath you. 

My base for the second half of the trip was the Placencia peninsula, on Belize’s southern coast. I stayed at Naia Resort and Spa, a boutique hotel set in a 200-acre private reserve. 

Its pool, a few steps from the beach, is as warm as a bath. 

Come sunset, the sky turns orange and pink across the water. With a rum punch in hand, it’s hard to care about anything else. 

My beachfront studio opened straight on to the sand, and came with an outdoor shower for rinsing off under the open sky after a long day out. 

I ate well at 1981, the resort’s waterfront restaurant, and the cocktails were delicious too. 

The real highlight was a day of island hopping and snorkelling by boat from Placencia. 

First stop was Moho Caye (pronounced “key”), a speck of golden sand surrounded by clear blue water. I snorkelled alongside nurse sharks, docile bottom-feeders that pose little threat to swimmers, watched stingrays glide past and spotted hefty lobsters tucked into the reef. 

Before moving on, I sat down to a seafood feast on the beach, with fresh lobster, white fish and crab — all caught the day before by my guide Akeem from Cultural Experience Belize. 

Then it was on to the second stop of the day, King Lewey’s Island Resort, a quirky, pirate-themed private island 12 miles off the coast, where I jumped back in to explore more of the reef. 

Back on dry land, a rum punch rounded off the day. I can confirm it’s strong enough to make any pirate proud. 

On my final night, the local Garifuna community — people of African and Caribbean ancestry — laid on a beach dinner with drumming and dancing. 

Watching the dancers perform, I couldn’t think of a better way to say goodbye to Belize.

AS the plane circled in to land in the city of Murcia in south-eastern Spain, we caught our first glimpse of La Manga.

The 13-mile-long strip separates Europe’s largest saltwater lagoon, Mar Menor, and the Mediterranean Sea.

It was as impressive to see from the air as it was to explore on foot, but it was what lay beneath the warm waters on either side of the sandbank that really made our trip.

The beach of Cabo de Palos on the southern cape of La Manga is widely regarded as one of Europe’s best snorkelling hotspots, with protected marine beds and crystal-clear visibility in the shallow bays.

With nothing but an old pair of goggles, my partner Owain and I saw starfish, octopus and an array of colourful reef fish in a small cove under the lighthouse.

The seagrass beds are renowned as one of the biggest breeding grounds for seahorses, and with dive shops and excursions taking off every hour from the harbour, snorkel enthusiasts will be in their element.

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The beach was a ten-minute drive from our hotel, the Grand Hyatt La Manga Club Golf & Spa. And while we could have easily spent every day snorkelling around the reef beds, there was too much else to explore at the 5H resort.

With 11 restaurants on site, we struggled to decide which we enjoyed more out of the red Thai prawn curry and hand-made gyoza dumplings at Asia Restaurant or the Aberdeen Angus steak with truffle mash on The Terrace Grill Steak House.

The latter did come with sunset views over the golf course, though.

But our favourite meal of all came at the hotel’s private beach restaurant, La Cala, which you get to via an on-demand mini-bus service down to the coast via the Calblanque National Park.

Sharing a huge pan of squid ink paella, home-made bread and a bottle of rosé on the terrace overlooking the bay was a highlight of the trip.

Luckily, there were many activities on offer to burn off all our overindulgences.

While the hotel has the biggest and best hotel gym I’ve ever seen, as well as tennis courts, two swimming pools, a football pitch, a cricket centre, bike hire and a spa, the jewel in La Manga Club’s crown is the three 18-hole golf courses that surround it.

Before teeing off, we had a lesson with resort pro Iain Hanna, who helped us work on our swing using analytic equipment before letting us loose on the pristine fairways.

With 325 days of sunshine a year, the resort — which hosted the Spanish Open for five years from 1973 — is a firm favourite for golfers looking for a sunny winter escape.

But even if golf isn’t your thing, the hotel is a good base to explore the Murcia region.

The historic city of Cartagena — known as the “Port of Cultures” — is 30 minutes away.

Its Roman theatre, which was built between 5 and 1 BC and would have seated 6,000 to 7,000 people, was only discovered by accident in 1988 during construction of a new crafts centre.

Entry is via the museum opposite the town hall and costs seven euros per person, and it is a must for the breathtaking views of the city alone.

At the Molinete Archaeological Park, we wandered around the ruins of an old Roman bathhouse and perused the reconstructed painted murals and some of the 300 artefacts found there.

Then it was time for cañas and tapas. We loved La Uva Jumillana, where beers and tapas cost from around 3.20 euros each.

Bodega La Fuente does good pinchos, Las Termas del Pincho is a lively stop for a drink and El Vinagrillo serves more substantial tapas to finish.

Our last stop was the National Museum of Underwater Archaeology, which is free on Sundays.

It covers the city’s maritime history — the port city of Cartagena was once the Carthaginians’ capital in Spain — and displays treasures recovered from Spanish shipwrecks around the world.

Driving back along the palm-tree-lined promenade as the sun set, I decided that with cheap flights, sunny climes and more Roman ruins and artefacts to see than most cities in Europe, this corner of Murcia should be top of any autumn sun list.

THE Cotswolds is one of the few places in the UK that looks even more beautiful at this time of year than during the summer months.

Gorgeous thatched-roofed cottages offer a snug escape, old pubs light up roaring fireplaces and woodlands are carpeted with fiery leaves.

I was visiting Bourton-on-the-Water, which offered all of this and more. In fact, the picture-perfect village has been dubbed the “Venice of the Cotswolds” thanks to its gorgeous scenery.

Weaving its way through the heart of the village, the River Windrush has a series of low stone bridges spanning its clear, shallow waters.

Honey-coloured homes line the grassy banks, creating a stunning backdrop that looks like the set of an English murder-mystery drama.

Its charm is magical and it comes as no surprise to learn that Kourtney Kardashian pipped me to the post, visiting the village and snapping the cottages I was lucky to call home for the weekend in her Instagram story.

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And Instagram-worthy this home certainly is.

Kestrel Cottage is the perfect bolthole for a weekend away. With one beautifully-decorated bedroom and a comfy sofabed, there is more than enough room for a couple, family or group of friends.

It’s one of four cottages set within an old mill and it’s bursting with character. It looked like it was straight out of an interior design magazine with fluffy carpets, a chic olive-coloured kitchen and bare-brick walls.

I loved how well equipped and homely the kitchen was, with enough facilities to whip up dinner for a cosy night in, along with all the decor you’d want to jazz up your own home.

My fairytale visit does come with a cautionary tale, though.

Where the Kardashians go, wannabe influencers will follow.

And Bourton-on-the-Water serves up the perfect picture spots, with a steady stream of visitors — although slightly less so now that summer is over (another good reason to visit in autumn).

Plus, staying in the heart of the village comes with the luxury of slipping out before the crowds for a peaceful wander in the sunshine to grab a morning coffee.

Bakery On The Water is the enemy of your waistline, but well worth it. Two cappuccinos and a side of pastry and sausage roll was the fuel we needed to explore.

We bounced from gift shop to restaurant, perusing all the lovely-looking menus, past the sweet store and ice cream parlour (making a note to return in summer), before turning the corner to find the beautiful Victorian Christmas Shop — a treasure trove for the festive-obsessed among us, myself included.

Coffees long gone, we treated ourselves to a pint or two by the fire at The Old New Inn, and wiled away the afternoon playing cards and debating where to eat that evening.

Bourton-on-the-Water leaves you completely spoilt for choice when it comes to food. With Smiths, the award-winning burger joint, two Italians, a Chinese, chippie and pizza spot, it’s almost impossible to agree.

After much debate, we opted for one of the lovely village pubs, The Willow, which has a huge garden overlooking the river.

This hostelry does pub classics properly, including a top-notch fish served with suitably crunchy chips (£19.95) and a traditional steak and mushroom pie loaded with moreish gravy (£19.50). The roast dinners looked good, too. Although those are best saved for Sundays.

Ahead of filling your belly, a Sunday in the Cotswolds is best spent strolling the scenic landscapes — and this time we decided to venture beyond the confines of the village.

A gentle, winding footpath guided us through the countryside towards the twin villages of Lower Slaughter and Upper Slaughter.

The peaceful, 1.5-mile route takes you along the banks of the River Eye, past wildflower meadows and yet more honey-coloured cottages.

The tranquillity of Lower Slaughter (despite its name) is what struck us most, especially when compared to its tourist hotspot neighbour. Crowds were minimal and all that could be heard was the chirp of birds and a gentle stream.

If you’d like to fuel here ahead of your walk back, Slaughters Country Inn is known for its excellent roasts.

Cosying up inside by the fire, we enjoyed another well-earned drink before ducking low ceilings to get to the restaurant, where we were met by giant Yorkshires, roast beef and all the trimmings.

Skip dessert, though, and end your meal at the Hawkstone Brewery instead — another gem we can thank Jeremy Clarkson for.

It’s less Aperol spritz and more traditional English pints — mine with an elderflower twist. The perfect way to toast an autumn escape.

It may even top Venice . . .