I went to the pretty Greek island with hillside resorts, kumquat limoncello and unique British icon

THERE aren’t many places where your holiday begins with a grandstand view of an island monastery as your plane skims the deep-blue Ionian Sea.

Landing in Corfu is an experience in itself, and dozens of people stood on a viewing platform jutting out over the ocean to watch our flight land at sunset just metres away from the Vlacherna monastery.

But the real magic starts when you head for the hills.

Tucked away on a dramatic cliffside near Agios Ioannis is the 5H Valmar Corfu by Louis Hotels.

Tumbling down the hillside, the chic all-inclusive hotel only opened to guests last summer and offers incredible 180-degree views of the sparkling, calm waters from almost every vantage point.

I immediately took a liking to the modern aesthetic — think pale wood and acres of glass — and loved the welcome pack of wine, fruit, local kumquat marmalade and some of the best baklava I’ve ever tasted.

WAIL OF A TIME

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Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

The next morning, I was able to appreciate the full beauty of the hotel, as a picturesque red-orange sunrise across the bay gave way to my first view of its private beach.

A delicious mojito with homegrown mint was fully justified at 11.30am as I settled down to soak up the rays on the comfy sun lounger.

The hotel has two pools — one adult-only — with stunning views, as well as a splash park and a tennis court on the cliffside above.

A spa offers more than 20 different treatments and there’s an air-conditioned gym.

And if you ever get bored of swimming in the clear waters of Valmar beach or taking a dip in the mountainside pools, Corfu has plenty of other beautiful beaches and sunbathing spots.

Paleokastritsa is one such beach, in the north of the island, where dark and light-blue waters contrast beautifully with the sands.

To enjoy an unforgettable view of this beach, head up to Paleokastritsa Monastery — maybe the only religious site in the world to have a whale skeleton inside.

To the south, the islands of Paxos and Antipaxos and the Blue Caves are destinations for the most popular boat trips from Corfu.

But after a day at the beach, the hotel provides excellent dinner options.

As well as two buffets, there’s the unique Viru Peruvian fusion restaurant on the roof terrace, and the beachside Gill and Olive eaterie serving Greek and international dishes.

For a hotel orientated toward families with young children, the Valmar’s sister hotel, Kerkyra Blue, can be found on the outskirts of Corfu Town.

It boasts a kids’ club and buffet, two swimming pools, a badminton court, a tennis court, a gym and a mini-football pitch.

But if you’re really missing the English sporting summer, you can venture into Corfu Town and find Greece’s only cricket pitch — on the main square, Spianada.

It is just one of the legacies of five decades of British rule during the mid-19th century.

Our excellent tour guide, Nausica, insisted that we were actually quite popular, as we introduced running water and roads to the island.

One Brit, however, is more popular in Corfu than any other — the late author Gerald Durrell.

The man whose memoirs of life growing up on Corfu in the 1930s inspired ITV comedy-drama The Durrells — starring Keeley Hawes — is immortalised with a statue on Spianada Square and has a park named in his honour.

Perhaps the most unique thing the British brought to Corfu, though, was the kumquat. The island’s climate made it the perfect place to grow the small, sweet, citrus fruit, which British traders imported from China into Europe.

Today, kumquats are sold on every street in the old town — and one of the most popular drinks on the island is the kumquat limoncello.

The drink suits the place because a period of almost 500 years of being ruled over from Venice has given the town more of an Italian appearance than that of a typical Greek island.

The Corfiots are fiercely proud of their international history, which has made their island look like a Tuscany in the middle of the Ionian Sea.

And they’re so determined to keep it that way that a law is in place which allows buildings in the old town to be painted in only a limited number of colours, in keeping with tradition.

These include browns, terracottas, greens and yellows.

The Cavalieri Roof Garden restaurant offers one of the best vantage points to admire the town’s uniquely coloured buildings, especially at sunset when the old fort glows above the sea.

As you sip a cocktail and watch day turn to night, you’ll feel at one with nature thanks to the sound of thousands of swallows circling above the town.

After sunset, we enjoyed a fish feast at Barbas Taverna.

The exquisite quality of the locally caught seafood is matched only by the quantity — which may see you opt for a tactical approach to dinner, prioritising your favourite dishes over aiming to consume everything.

When we left Corfu, it was a less frantic journey than the Durrells had to make when they left the island on the eve of World War Two.

But we did get to see the spectacular setting of the island’s airport once again.