I visited the European island with TUI flights, kissing bridges and underwater sea walks

WHEN twenty-something me holidayed in Ayia Napa, ­gorgeous scenery and chic cuisine were the furthest things from my mind.

I was firmly focused on foam parties and feral antics.

Now, 15 years on, I’m back to savour a different side to the party town and see what the rest of Cyprus has to offer.

And while there were still plenty of excited Gen Z holidaymakers on my Tui flight from Gatwick, this trip was to be a much more grown-up affair.

Luxury, relaxation and an itinerary younger me simply wouldn’t recognise.

Ayia Napa’s famous party strip and old fishing port looked very similar as we travelled from the airport, but arriving at the 5* Mare Ayia Napa could not have been more different from my youthful experiences.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

A ten-minute drive out of town, Mare sits on the edge of the Cape Greco national park, with its turquoise waters, nature walking trails and limestone sea caves.

The resort resembles a sun-drenched Cypriot village with low-rise, whitewashed bungalows featuring terracotta roofs set among winding stone paths.

Young me made do with a hostel. This time, I walked into a modern luxe dream.

Think muted tones, Molton Brown toiletries and Nespresso on tap.

Some rooms have access to pretty gardens, while others have swim-up pools or even a private place to take a dip.

After a long day travelling, I hit the hotel’s adult-only Sky Lounge rooftop bar to watch sunset.

It delivered stunning beachfront views as well as a potent Paloma cocktail of tequila and grapefruit soda. A girl still needs her treats.

On that subject, the all-inclusive hotel has eight restaurants to enjoy, ranging from poolside sushi and charcoal grilled kebabs to Mediterranean meze and dry-aged steaks.

There is also a splash park with slides for the kids, and adults can escape to their own pool with plush cabanas.

By day, there’s a sandy and quiet Blue Flag beach in a calm bay that’s perfect for paddling kids and paddleboarding.

With Tui’s extensive range of tours, there’s the option to explore parts of Cyprus younger me would never have considered.

A Coastal Landmarks trip takes us through the stunning Cape Greco park where we admire clifftop views over the caves and the tiny white-washed Agioi Anargyroi church perched over the water.

Legend has it that if you kiss while making a wish at the Lovers’ Bridge — a natural limestone arch spanning the sea — your dreams will come true.

While I didn’t have anyone to pucker up with, the view alone was worth it.

After a leisurely stop at Cyprus’s most famous stretch of sand, Nissi Beach, for a drink and quick dip, we move on to the Ayia Napa Sculpture Park.

I adored the hundreds of statues, mythical beasts and art installations right next to the Cacti Park, also perfect for a stroll.

We end the day with coffees and cocktails at a beachside taverna in Protaras.

Called Fig Tree Bay, it is named after the single tree that has stood near the beach since the 17th century.

Next day we up the ante on the adventure front with some unique experiences that would normally be the reserve of qualified scuba divers.

Underwater Sea Adventures on Ayia Triada beach take you out to a purpose-built pontoon positioned over a reef.

There are two unusual ways to observe it. On the seabed walk, you wear a huge “space age” helmet that is supplied with fresh air pumped down from the surface via a hose.

Once on, your head and hair stay dry — you can even keep glasses on — while you follow a guided trail along the seabed, little fishes dart in and out.

Or take the pace up a bit with an underwater scooter or Breathing Observation Bubble (BOB).

You sit upright with your head inside a clear dome helmet fed with air as the scooter glides along the seabed doing the hard work for you.

The crystal-clear waters mean you feel like you’re in a Little Mermaid remake, walking, dancing and feeding the fish. It was an incredible experience.

My rediscovery of this one-time party island of my youth wasn’t over yet.

First there was a trip into the hills to see a different side of the island above the town of Paphos.

Aphrodite Hills Resort is perched high on a coastal plateau overlooking the legendary birthplace of the ancient Greek goddess.

The huge estate feels more like a self-contained village, complete with its own central square, chapel and a dozen restaurants.

This is low-key luxury and we were soon in golf buggies zipping through the sprawling grounds, ticking off the Elemis spa, 18-hole PGA championship golf course and Real Madrid-backed kids’ football academy.

But with Aphrodite’s birthplace just below us, we make a pilgrimage to admire Petra tou Romiou at sunset before making our way up to the village of Kouklia for an evening of fabulous food, live music and dancing.

Emboldened by one too many glasses of glorious Cypriot wine, I am first on my feet to join in.

You can take the girl out of Ayia Napa, but you seemingly can’t take Ayia Napa out of the girl.