I tried the European river cruise where your wine glass is never empty

AFTER my sixth glass of wine, the boat began to rock – the first time in three days I felt like I was on the water.

Cruising down France’s majestic River Loire on board CroisiEurope’s Loire Princesse, I had to put it down to my slightly tipsy state, as until then, the unique long, low vessel had drifted along peacefully for the entire voyage.

The ship has side-mounted paddle wheels and is designed to sail on France’s last wild river, known for its shallowness.

There’s a relaxed atmosphere on board, and unlike its ocean-going cousins, the Loire Princesse has a vibe that’s all about enjoying the slower pace   —   eating, drinking and snoozing as you pass through stunning scenery.

I joined the four-night Croisi-Europe sailing just a day after my 30th birthday and the gentle pace of the cruise was exactly what I needed after big celebrations back in London.

If you thought river cruises were for older folks you’d largely be right — I was the youngest person on board by about 20 years.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

But that is not to say it was sedate — there was an open bar and at dinner my glass was constantly topped up.

Servers eventually just left entire bottles of red on our table.

The Loire Princesse took us from Nantes to Saint-Nazaire on the west coast and back again.

And Nantes, the sixth largest French city, was a highlight of the trip.

Just an hour’s flight from London, it is the perfect weekend getaway destination, with all the charm of a French city without the bustle of Paris or the remoteness of Provence.

With clean, cobbled streets, Nantes is home to plenty of exiles from Paris looking for a cheaper, quieter life, and the city feels like a mini version of it.

From July to September, follow the Green Line, or Le Voyage à Nantes — literally painted on to the pavement, it leads you through the city to discover hidden street art, pop-up installations and all the best viewing points, without needing a map.

Another arty must-do is Les Machines de I’île — unique steampunk-like artistic projects inspired by the fantasy worlds of 19th-century writer Jules Verne, who was born in Nantes.

The Grand Elephant is a 40ft mechanical jumbo made of wood and steel that walks across the quay at the city’s former shipyards, trumpeting and spraying water at unsuspecting onlookers.

You can even ride inside it.

And you can admire Le Carrousel des Mondes Marins — a giant, three-storey carousel filled with mechanical sea monsters which you can operate yourself.

And I am sure you’ll be inspired to create something beautiful yourself after a tipple or two in the Loire Valley.

The region is home to its own variety of vino — Muscadet — grown at the western end of the valley.

Muscadet is a dry, crisp white and is currently going through a bit of a renaissance, so an opportunity to visit one of the world-class wineries in the region is an absolute must.

On my trip, there were three day-trip excursions from the cruise, one of which was included in the price of the voyage, the others costing around £68 each.

In one day-long excursion from the cruise we travelled south of Nantes to the beautiful vineyard of Cassemichere.

Rather dramatically, our guide told us how the vintner’s brother had died just three weeks earlier, after opening a tank and being poisoned by the carbon dioxide flowing out.

Like the bizarre plot of some twisted nursery rhyme, the poor man had then fallen into the wine.

But I didn’t let that put me off the tasting, and I can confirm that the white made at Cassemichere pairs well with seafood.

We also visited nearby Clisson, a medieval village known for its unique Italian-inspired architecture, with a charming river flowing through the middle of it.

Clisson is the kind of place they stick on the front of the tourist brochure — large trees hanging over the flowing water with an old bridge to cross it.

It was full of history as well, and with typical French frankness, our guide told us how, in the 18th century, women had been boiled at the castle during the Revolution.

On another day trip from the boat we visited two gorgeous chateaus in the centre of the Loire Valley.

The beautiful homes are now museums, with manicured gardens which were lovely to walk around on a blue-sky day.

Each day trip came with a three-course lunch and again, plenty of wine.

At the Chateau de Villandry — a world heritage site — we ate a beautiful chicken lunch in a spot where weddings are hosted.

After all that wine and food I was in desperate need of a nap when we got back to the boat.

Luckily for us, the rooms were cleaned every day, had a sizeable bathroom and were quiet.

Cabins on the upper deck have balconies, while those on the main deck have picture windows to watch the scenery glide by.

When it came to the evening’s festivities, an intercom in our room would call us to the lounge, where we would enjoy several pre-dinner drinks.

Then, in a nice touch by staff, we would have our dinner menu announced to us.

As with the included breakfast and lunch, dinner was an à-la-carte affair.

Think refined French comfort food — plenty taking inspiration from the surrounding Loire region, including fresh seafood and local cheeses.

And, of course, the wine flowed freely — particularly the Muscadet, which was available every night with whatever dish.

In summer months, the ship’s sun deck with its deck chairs and sun loungers is the perfect place to enjoy another cheeky glass while soaking up the sun.

With its access to stunning cities and chateaus, fine food and wine, river cruises don’t only appeal to the older lot on board.

From now on I am a convert too — and got the boat rocking!