wine

YOU don’t need a huge holiday budget to jet off on an amazing European city break.

With flights from £13.99 each way and hotel rooms from under £40 a night, a weekend escape to Spain, Italy, or France can easily cost less than a big night out at home.

Whether you fancy sipping €3 (£2.50) wine by the river in Porto, grabbing fresh beachside tapas in Malaga, or drinking in views from a 360-degree rotating bar in Tirana, you can do it all while on a budget.

Here are the best bargain European city breaks you can book right now for under £18 a flight, with ridiculously cheap hotel stays to match.

Lyon, France

Bag a cheap city break to Lyon where you can sip a drink on a floating bar at the River Banks, wander Renaissance-era cobblestone streets in Old Lyon, and sample some of the best food in France.

Known as the food capital of France, it isn’t hard to find somewhere good to eat here – even on a budget.

Head to Marronniers Street at lunchtime and take your pick of Bouchons, which are traditional, local restaurants serving high-quality authentic meals for as little as €10 (£8.50).

You can fly to Lyon with Wizz Air from £17.99 each way. Sometimes the return flight from Lyon can be as low as £13.99.

The People Lyon offers rooms from £37 a night. The building used to be a secondary school, and has now become a vibrant spot for people to sit and enjoy views of the Fourvière Basilica.

Milan, Italy

While famous for high fashion and luxury, Milan is surprisingly easy to do on a budget if you know where to look.

The city’s aperitivo culture is ideal for inexpensive light snacking and drinking – especially in the vibrant, canal-side district of Navigli.

Soak up world-class architecture for free by wandering through the mall Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, admiring Sforzesco Castle, and of course taking in the views of the famous Milan Cathedral.

With super cheap flights, an affordable metro system and plenty to do for free once you’re there, you can book a city break to Milan knowing it won’t dent your wallet.

You can fly to Milan with Ryanair from £14.99 each way.

The Glam Hotel Milano has rooms from £50 a night, and is a modern hotel directly opposite the train station.

Malaga, Spain

Far more than a typical getaway to the Costa del Sol, Malaga is a vibrant, sun-soaked city full of Andalusian culture.

Dining out is wonderfully cheap, with beachside bars serving fresh sardine skewers for only a few euros, alongside plenty of low-cost tapas spots.

Sightseeing costs next to nothing thanks to free Sunday afternoon entry to art museums and historic sites like the Alcazaba fortress.

Pair that with beach days and scenic hikes to the Gibralfaro viewpoint, and you’ve got yourself a very affordable few days away.

You can fly to Malaga with Wizz Air from £17.99 each way.

Rooms at funky capsule hotel Futurotel Malaga start from £59.

Porto, Portugal

Cheap wine, unique architecture, amazing city viewpoints – Porto is the ideal pick for a walkable city break packed with affordable things to do.

Spend a day strolling through the Ribeira District where medieval colourful houses and charming cafes line the riverfront.

Another top free sight is to watch the sun set behind the huge steel Dom Luis I Bridge from the Jardmin do Morro, to the sound of local street musicians.

As for cheap wine, pop into neighbourhood tascas for a bite to eat and a drink – here you can enjoy local wine by the jug for €3.50 (£3)!

You can fly to Porto with Ryanair from as little as £13.99 each way.

The ever-reliable ibis budget Porto Gaia has rooms from £55 a night.

Tirana, Albania

Tirana is easily one of Europe’s most underrated and budget-friendly capitals, buzzing with pastel-painted buildings and an amazing coffee culture.

You can explore giant, Communist-era nuclear bunkers turned underground art museums at Bunk’Art, or catch a cheap cable car ride up Mount Dajti for sweeping views across the valley.

Nights are best spent in the trendy Blloku district – a neighbourhood once off-limits to locals as it was an restricted zone for communist regime leaders – now it’s open to everyone with lively cocktail lounges and traditional grill houses that serve up dishes and drinks for pocket change.

You can fly to Tirana with Wizz Air from £17.99 each way.

The four-star Sky Hotel Tirana has rooms from £38 per night, and is home to the largest rotating bar in the Balkans.

The revolving rooftop bar completes a 360° turn every hour, giving you sweeping city and mountain views alongside your meal.

Dublin, Ireland

When you can hop over to Dublin on a £14.99 hour-long flight, this might just be the quickest and easiest city break to tick off in a weekend.

While Temple Bar is certainly worth a visit to walk its pretty cobbled streets and grab a pic outside the famous red pub, save your pint of Guinness for elsewhere.

Head to South William Street to find cheaper beer at spots like Pygmalion and Grogan’s, where all the atmosphere comes from taking your pint back out into the street to listen to buskers.

For an affordable yet delicious lunch, head to Pablo Picante. Dublin has a huge burrito culture, and this Mexican chain offers well-stuffed wraps that will keep you full all day from €10.75 (£9.20).

You can fly to Dublin with Ryanair from £14.99 each way.

Stay at the Wetherspoons-owned Keaven’s Port Hotel from £82 per night. The hotel sits on Camden Street, which packed with some of the city’s best bars, pubs and clubs.

Alicante, Spain

With year-round warmth and 300 days of sunshine per year, Alicante is a solid bet when it comes to booking a sunny Spanish city break.

Spend your days wandering the whitewashed, flower-filled lanes of Barrio Santa Cruz, or taking in sweeping Mediterranean views from the hilltop Santa Barbara Castle for free.

Eating well can be remarkably cheap if you visit Mercado Central for fresh tapas, or tuck into authentic regional paellas at backstreet neighbourhood bars.

You can fly to Alicante with Ryanair from £14.99 each way.

You can book a stay at the Travelodge Alicante Puerto from £39 per night, which is conveniently located a short walk from Alicante Harbour and the Explanada de España.

ABBEY Clancy and her husband Peter Crouch got boozy during a wine tasting and it was all caught on camera.

The TV personality admitted she was “trollied” and “absolutely p***ed” as she made a dirty joke.

The famous couple filmed a special episode of their The Therapy Crouch podcast and were joined by Abbey’s friend Liberty who instructed them on all things wine.

But as they were learning more about wine, Abbey admitted to feeling “trollied,” when Liberty informed her she was meant to spit out the wine they were tasting to prevent from getting drunk.

“This wine tasting has taken a turn,” Peter joked.

Then Liberty tried to educated them with a special trick on how to discern if a wine was good quality or not.

She explained how the indent at the bottom of the bottle indicated quality, and the deeper the curve, the better the wine.

“The deeper the dip in the wine the more expensive,” Liberty explained and then tasked Abbey with feeling the indent of the bottle she was holding. 

Abbey then threw in her dirty quip: “Well the deeper the dip… so are you meant to thumb it in…?”

The joke left Peter and Abbey in hysterics and Liberty struggled to get them back on track to finish the wine tasting.

The couple’s popular podcast has become a place for them to share many secrets of their marriage, including when Abbey went through Peter’s phone.

She admitted earlier this month that she had sneaky peek at the ex-footballer’s messages behind his back, but didn’t like what she saw.

“I went through your phone,” to which an unimpressed Peter replied: “Which you shouldn’t do.”

Abbey tried to justify it, saying: “Everyone does that, every girl does that.”

Abbey went on: “But I find out things from you by doing that

“I found out you had this crush on Jet from the Gladiators, which I didn’t speak to him [Peter] for two days after and he was like ‘Abbey, she’s like 60’ and I was like ‘I don’t care, it made me physically ill’, I was so upset.”

Peter said: “But I’m allowed to fancy someone from 25 years ago…”

Abbey interjected: “I know, but still knowing my husband fancies someone else.”

Jet, real name Diane Youdale, was a main cast member on the original UK television series Gladiators from 1992 until 1996.

FROM the first ‘we’re here, cheers!’ to a cheeky afternoon vino settled by the sea, wine can be the perfect holiday accompaniment.

Yet, with the average price of a glass nudging up to £20 in some parts of the world, it’s not always easy to find good wine for a decent price.

Fortunately, there are still some parts of Europe where you can ensure your bank balance can stay in the pink as you drink.

I’ve been visiting vineyards and tasting wines as a journalist for more than 15 years and even hiked the famous ‘Hollywood Hill’ Hermitage.

My experience of studying with the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) – one of the world’s most revered wine qualification providers – has allowed me to travel the wine world virtually, too.

Now undertaking the highest tier qualification, the WSET Diploma, I immerse myself in a different grape region every day. So it’s safe to say I know a where to find some of the biggest bargains around the world.

So whether you’re looking to let your hair down with friends or just want to feel your shoulders soften after a hectic summer with the rugrats, here are my go-tos for an affordable getaway woven with wine…

Athens, Greece

The capital of Greece plays host to some of the world’s best bars where you’ll be lucky to get change from a 20 euro note for a single drink.

Yet this doesn’t mean there are no bargains to be found in the city.

In the Plaka area, at the foot of the Acropolis Hill, regular happy hours promise glasses of wine for as little as €2 (£1.71).

These are typically malagousia (white) or agiorgitiko (red) wines – they’re not the very best Greece has to offer, but they’re chalice sized, drinkable, and a good choice for a laid back early evening drink with friends.

Cheap eats in Athens take the form of souvlaki – skewers of spit roasted chicken or pork served in pillowy pitta with chips.

At Souvlaki Livadia, close to the Omonia metro stop, skewers are just a few euros including free bread.

For an affordable place to stay, Hotel Marina Center, a 25-minute walk from the Acropolis, has rooms from €51 (£44).

Lourmarin, France

An hour on a bus from pricier Aix en Provence, the hilltop town of Lourmarin is officially recognised as one of France’s prettiest villages.

Its centre is all limestone buildings with wooden window shutters, crooked cobbled lanes, and overflowing hanging baskets.

And the town is as easy on the wallet as it is on the eye, especially when it comes to wine.

Tucked inside a cave beneath Lourmarin’s 15th century castle, Le Caves du Château offers tasting sessions of six wines for €15 (£12.84) which works out to just over £2 a glass.

The pours are generous and – if the owner takes a liking to you – you might even get an extra taste for free.

Visit on a Friday to take advantage of the market that floods Lourmarin centre every week. Colourful food stalls are leaden with dry-cured meats, cheeses, and breads, which you can put together as a picnic lunch for less than a tenner.

When it comes to shut-eye, meanwhile, Ò Mamma Mia has rooms from €75 (£64) a night.

Top wine tip: Depending on the day, you’ll get to sample blends made from juicy syrahs, spicy grenaches and rare serine grapes with dark cherry and berry flavours.

Porto, Portugal

The trick to getting a bargain wine in Porto, in northwest Portugal, is to seek out the street sellers.

Pop up stalls regularly set up in locations like Jardin Morro and along the banks of the Douro in the Vila Nova de Gaia area, selling glasses of Portugal’s signature vino verde wine for €3 (£2.57) and three shots of port for €5 (£4.28).

If you want to combine sightseeing with sipping, the Pink Palace is a real giggle.

Entrance to this rosé themed attraction is €25 (£21), but the price includes five samples of rosé wine, and there are dozens of interactive exhibits to discover – including a giant pink ball pool.  

One of the cheapest things to eat in Porto is a classic francesinha – a multi decker, gravy-slicked sandwich. Each one will set you back about a tenner but is so big, you won’t need to eat for the rest of the trip.

On the accommodation front, there are plenty of affordable places to stay in Porto, from hostels with private rooms like Being Porto to B&Bs and apartments.

Centrally based Lusitana Hotel, for example, has doubles from €60 (£52) a night.

Bratislava, Slovakia

In the cobbled Old Town of the capital of Slovakia, the Slovak National Collection of Wines gives you 100 minutes to taste 80 wines for €40 (£34) which works out at 43p a sample if you can somehow manage them all.

To work up a thirst first, make the uphill walk to Bratislava Castle before returning to the Old Town to make a wish on the bronze Čumil statue, which emerges from a drain cover amongst the cobbles.

If you want more wine later, Grand Cru is the best wine bar in the city.

You won’t find wine for 50 cents a glass here, but you’ll get to taste gems like peachy devín and a grape called palava, all under the expert guidance of owner Martin.

For a place to crash out afterwards, We Stay has apartments in a restored 17th century Old Town building from €64 (£55) a night.

Top wine tip: You’ll taste your way through some better-known grape varieties like chardonnay and some that may be new to you such as peppery blaufränkisch and dunaj, bursting with red fruit.

Bari, Italy

Perched at the top of Italy’s stiletto heel, Bari is an fun port town where both life and prices remain largely unchanged by mass tourism.

Within the spaghetti streets of the Old Town, restaurants advertise offers like Antica Salumeria Di Lapesara’s two glasses of local wine and three cheeses for just €10 (£8.50).

It’s easy to find bargain bites in Bari, too.

The city is teeming with places that serve panzerotto (a type of pasty) or pucce (filled bread rolls) for as little as €2 a portion.

If you’re self-catering, pop to Strada Arco Basso. Known as ‘the street of the nonnas’, it’s an alleyway where local matriarchs make and sell fresh orecchiette pasta every day – you can pick up a bag for just €2.50.

For a wallet-friendly place to stay, Arvian B&B near the Old Town has rooms from €115 (£98) a night.

Top wine tip: In this part of the world, you can expect local grape varieties like verdeca and fiano (white) and aglianico and primitivo (red).

Kos, Greece

The birthplace of Hippocrates, or the ‘Father of Medicine’, Kos offers wines that are its own kind of medicine.

A 15-minute Uber ride from the centre of Kos Town, there’s a cluster of vineyards the serve affordable wine flights.

At family-run Hatziemmanouil, where the tasting terrace is topped with wine barrel tables in view of the vines, you can taste eight wines for €20 (£17) and the price includes a small board of cured meat, cheeses, breads, and tomatoes.

A short walk away, Ktima Akrani is a little pricier – with four wines costing €15 (£12.84) – but offers a tasting terrace that is all plump sofas, rattan, and wood, so it’s worth the extra pennies if you want a touch of lux.

To bed down, Bristol Sea View Hotel has apartment rooms from €94.50 (£81) a night.

Top wine tip: Count on tasting syrahs, grenaches, and one of Greece’s flagship grapes, citrussy assyrtiko.  

Béziers, France

This castle crowned hilltop city in southern France is surrounded by the Languedoc wine region, so it’s a great spot for a bargain drink.

If you’ve hired a car, you can also motor out into the vineyards of Fos.

Here, wineries like Domaine Ollier Taillefer offer tastings like six wines for just €10 (£8.50) and if you buy a bottle or two to take home, they sometimes waiver that cost.

The wines aren’t too badly priced at Béziers market, either – wine bar Jaja (a slang word for table wine) serves glasses from €4 (£3.50).

If you’re trying to save your cash just try not to be tempted by the croque truffle, which sells for nearly forty quid a metre at a stall across the street.

Or on the edge of the Old Town, Maison Carne serves wine by the centilitre, where you’re left in charge of the pour.

You’re only charged for the centilitres you drink and the rest is taken away at the end of your experience.

For a cheap place to stay, Hotel Paul Riquet, a five-minute walk from the Old Town, has rooms from €42 (£36) a night.

Top wine tip: The area is best known for its syrah, grenache, carignan and chardonnay wines.

Bilbao, Spain

Once you’ve ticked off Bilbao’s gargantuan Guggenheim art museum and ridden the funicular up Mount Artxanda for panoramic views of the city, it’s txakoli time.

This light, slightly sparkling wine is Bilbao’s signature drink, and it’s served in bars all over the city, for a few euros a glass.

Plaza Nueva in the Old Town is the best place for a txakoli crawl. All four sides of this suntrap square are lined with bars, with al fresco seating areas.

As well as serving wine, these joints serve pintxos – northern Spain’s equivalent of tapas, but typically served on cocktail sticks rather than in bowls or on plates.

Sold for €2 to €3 a portion, options include stuffed mushrooms, cured ham on mini baguettes, tortilla, and gilda (olives, anchovies, and pepper on a stick), and three to four can make a decent substitute for lunch. Favourite haunts include Café Bilbao and Taberna Ona.

To sleep it all off, Casual Mardones Bilbao has rooms in the Old Town from £92.45 a night.

Ohrid, North Macedonia

This red-roofed town on the banks of Lake Ohrid is dubbed North Macedonia’s Lake Como, although the cost of living in the two locations is incomparable.

Of course, prices are a little higher in the city’s bars and restaurants, but they’re still pocket friendly.

Near the lively Old Bazaar area, places like Star Cinar sell local wines for a few euros.

The food here is affordable, too. Share a platter of five dips and bread for £4 or tuck into a mućkalica (smoky stew) for less than £5.

For more choice, head to Winery Mal Sv. Kliment in the Old Town, where you can sample wines made from local grapes like ohridsko crno and pamid for less than €5 (£4.20) a glass in a cool, stone walled, tasting room. 

One of the cheapest ways to stay in Ohrid is to book a private villa.

Dozens of options, like Villa Malezan and Villa Dvor, can be booked for less than £50 a night.

Dolenjska, Slovenia

A 50-minute drive or one hour 45-minute bus journey from Slovenian capital Ljubljana, Dolenjska is the land of Cviček – a light, fruity, lower alcohol, traditional red wine that’s so loved by locals it has its own wine princess.

This part of Slovenia is ideal for a girls’ escape.

Dozens of stone vineyard outbuildings have been converted into cottages with facilities like wine barrel hot tubs and saunas.

Many of them, including Matjaz’s Homestead, offer wine blending experiences which let you blend your own bottle of Cviček wine in the cellars – for just €5 (£4.28) a bottle.

Stays in Dolenjska’s vineyard cottages can be booked for as little as €100 (£85) for four people.

It’s hard to hate on Canada. It’s like cursing a cotton ball, or raging about tapioca.

The friendliest of neighbors, the country has fought alongside the U.S. in conflicts going back to World War I, purchased many trillions of dollars worth of American goods and blessed this country with, among other gifts, ice hockey, Drake, Joni Mitchell and Alex Trebek.

While you can question the nation’s culinary sensibility — the unofficial dish, poutine, is an abomination consisting of French fries, cheese curds and hot gravy — Canada is basically a very large, very pretty country filled with a lot of very nice, extremely polite people.

But for reasons only he can fathom, President Trump has declared economic war on our amiable northern neighbor.

After more than a year of trading tit-for-tat tariffs, Trump recently escalated the conflict by slapping a new 50% tax on a variety of Canadian exports, including cement, furniture, dairy products and, most iconically, hockey sticks. The added levy, which will further burden inflation-weary U.S. consumers, is set to take effect in mid-August.

The move makes little sense from an economic or foreign policy standpoint. It’s best to regard Trump’s trade moves as a wind gauge charts a blustery storm; his on-again, off-again tariffs are not the result of some carefully thought-out policy but, rather, a measure of the president’s shifting moods and pique toward certain foreign leaders.

And they carry a not-inconsiderable price tag — California’s struggling wine industry being just one example.

For decades, the industry has been a vital and growing part of California’s agricultural economy. Recent years, however, have seen a number of setbacks.

Costs are rising. Sales are falling, as younger generations favor hard seltzers, canned cocktails or premium beers over crushed grapes. At the same time, climate change and the growing incidence of wildfire threaten the viability of some of California’s premier wine-growing regions.

A Canadian ban on alcohol imports

Then there’s the trade war with Canada, the industry’s largest export market and formerly a major customer of California wines. Until recently, the Canadian market accounted for more than a third of the state’s exports.

But last year, several provinces stopped purchasing U.S. alcohol in response to Trump’s tariffs and his threats — more slapstick than real — to annex the country and make Canada the 51st American state. While two provinces, Saskatchewan and Alberta, soon lifted their bans, the two most populous, Ontario and Quebec, have not.

As a result of this “geopolitical friction,” to use the words of University of California researchers, California wine exports to Canada fell by nearly 80% in 2025 compared with the year before. Unsurprisingly, Canadian sales of homegrown wines have soared.

Stick that in your terroir!

In response to the dramatic drop in exports, more than a dozen California members of Congress wrote last month to Quebec’s premier, Christine Fréchette, urging her to lift the retaliatory ban on U.S. wine and spirits.

“Reopening the market to American wine would restore consumer choice and signal a commitment to restoring fair and balanced trade for Québecois consumers and American wineries who have no connection to the underlying trade disputes,” the letter read.

Sen. Adam Schiff also wrote Fréchette asking her to resume the sale of California wine and U.S. spirits.

“The restriction on American wine has had damaging consequences for regional consumers, businesses, and producers who have no influence over national policies,” the California Democrat stated. “In fact, I have repeatedly voiced my opposition to and voted against the President’s harmful trade policies, including as they pertain to Canada.”

Fréchette’s response was, in a word: “Non!”

“In the context of the ongoing trade war, the premier continues to defend Quebec’s economic interests,” a spokesperson for Fréchette told CBC Radio. “This measure will remain in place as long as the United States maintains these unjustified tariffs. Our government will re-evaluate its position when the American administration reverses these measures.”

And that statement came before Trump upped the ante, along with the tariffs on Canada, which, presumably, doesn’t help matters.

Red or white?

Mike Thompson has seen the damage of Trump’s economic warfare firsthand. The St. Helena Democrat represents the heart of Wine Country and spearheaded, along with Democratic Rep. Jimmy Panetta of Carmel and Republican Rep. David Valadao of Hanford, the bipartisan overture to Quebec’s premier.

“I talked to a vintner today,” Thompson said during a drive this week through his sprawling Northern California district. “They went from an $11-million annual wine export to a $2-million annual wine export to Canada because of this.”

Thompson has introduced legislation, including a measure to reimburse wine producers for the money they’ve lost due to Trump’s tariffs, but the proposals have stalled in the House despite bipartisan support. His effort, Thompson dryly noted, “has not been warmly embraced by the administration.”

Meanwhile, the cross-border hostilities continue. Neither Trump nor Fréchette seems ready to budge, with California vintners still stuck in the middle.

So the question in Montreal and Toronto remains: What pairs best with poutine? Canadian white or red?

What else you should be reading

The must-read: Trump administration targeted California and other blue states for clean energy cuts
The deep dive: Justice Kennedy reflects on his time deciding the Constitution’s promise of liberty and equality
The L.A. Times Special: His nickname was ‘Satan.’ His political influence was immense
Until next time,
mzb
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As one of the biggest techno DJs in the world, Charlotte de Witte never has her feet on the ground for long. But she comes back to L.A. as much as she can.

“Since I started, L.A. has been one of those very important cities. You really want to hit it as a beginning artist. It’s where everything is centered and everything is happening,” De Witte said during an interview at the Grammy Museum in November. She was here celebrating the release of her self-titled album debut. “L.A. made a difference for me.”

Throughout her years partying and performing in L.A., she’s played clubs such as Sound and Exchange LA. Then she grew to larger spaces like the Shrine and City Market, where she played open-to-close sets.

In the past, when things haven’t been as hectic, De Witte has enjoyed many of L.A.’s unique cultural offerings. Here are a few of her favorite things to do on a Sunday in the city.

9 a.m.: Coffee at Maru downtown

When I’m staying around downtown, I like to go to the Arts District and stop by Maru for a coffee. They also make great matcha and pastries. Whether it’s to-go or you’re just hanging around for a bit, great coffee is the best way to start the day!

11 a.m. Roller skate from Venice to Santa Monica

If we have a little bit more time to enjoy L.A. on tour, we always go to Venice. It’s such a unique place to be, but it’s also a very chill place. You’re in L.A., which is a huge city, but because you’re also next to the ocean it’s more calming for the mind and soul. When I’m on tour, I’m always in big cities, in the middle and the heart of where everything’s happening, and I could miss some peace and quiet, because I live in the countryside at home in Lisbon. Venice is that bright, sweet spot in the middle, where you have the more relaxing presence of the water and the beach, but still connected to Los Angeles.

Noon: Lunch at Gjusta

My manager is a big fan of Gjusta. He goes there all the time, wherever he is staying, so I think it kind of rubbed off on me.

2 p.m.: Facial treatment at Formula Fig in Culver City

A facial treatment is one of my favorite self-care moments when I’m on the road. It helps me relax and keeps me feeling fresh. The area around the Culver City location is also really nice for a walk or to grab a drink or a bite.

4 p.m.: Cruise around L.A. with an old-school Manx Beach Buggy

Manx Beach Buggies are an amazing buzz! I recently had the chance to take one for a spin around the city with my wonderful friends at Race Service, the car culture hub on Venice Boulevard in Mid-City. They had an event at Living Room. People from all over the U.S. drove there with their cars. It was incredibly fun, and it felt very, very L.A.!

6 p.m.: Dinner at Dudley Market

I am kind of into wine, especially natural wines. In Portugal, we are doing a lot with wines. Actually, we are building our own vineyard, so it’s important to us to learn more about natural winemaking. Dudley has amazing food and a great wine selection, and it’s also in Venice, so it’s perfect.

11 p.m.: Night out in a rough and sweaty warehouse like Aurora

As a DJ, I obviously have to end my night on the dance floor. It’s such a primal feeling to go clubbing, to all come together and dance to a beat. To feel this in your chest, it’s an experience that human beings have been doing throughout history. Because of the time that I spent on the dance floor, but also the time that I spent on the other side as a DJ, I would really argue that clubbing is essential in everyone’s life. It’s also self-care. During my last stay in L.A. — the week I released my debut album — I played five shows during a three-day period. I enjoyed all the sets, but to end the day with a deep dive into the night, Aurora Warehouse is a great venue.

EACH step I take is marked by a comforting crunch as my spiked hiking boots grip the snow.

Directly ahead of me is Mont Blanc’s breathtaking peak, straddling France, Italy and Switzerland.

And beneath my feet is the Ghiacciaio del Monte Bianco glacier.

I’m reminded to stop my gawping and keep walking, by a firm tug from the rope tying me to my guide and to the three other people in the expedition.

I approach the edge of the glacier and spot a huge crack in the snow where it’s threatening to suddenly fall away.

Then, as I peer thousands of feet down into the valley to try and spot my hotel, Gran Baita, I hear a huge rumble.

Looking nervously to my right, I see a small avalanche careering down the side of Mont Blanc.

It’s a not-so-subtle reminder that the ropes around our waists are the only things that might offer protection if the glacier beneath our feet suddenly shifts.

But despite the snow on the ground, I’m soon stripping off my layers because the temperatures can reach balmy heights in this gorgeous Italian Alpine region during summer.

To arrive here, I hopped on the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car which whizzed me 3,466 metres up to the glacier from the village of Courmayeur in ten minutes — with a stop at 2,173 metres to switch cabs.

The cable car costs £50 in advance to go to the top — but this does include entrance to a variety of attractions including an Alpine garden, kids’ play area and Europe’s highest library.

As well as a chance to refuel in its restaurants, the middle Skyway station offers another treat — a cave where they mature a vintage wine grown here.

And even if you’re not drinking wine, you’ll be able to drink in the amazing views of Italy’s Aosta Valley.

Skyway Monte Bianco slowly rotates so you don’t miss any of the incredible scenery.

Back in the sun-drenched valleys, there’s not a speck of snow in sight — but we still eat for winter, piling our plates with gourmet raclette and classic Italian pastas.

The region’s restaurant highlights include Cadran Solaire, whose wild-boar ragu is the stuff foodie dreams are made of.

But if your stomach is firmly in summer mode, you can tuck into lighter home-cooked delights at La Terrazza, where the owner has brought southern Italian delicacies to the Alps.

Classics like carbonara are on offer, as well as starters of anchovies with mozzarella.

If you’re worried about all those calories, the slopes of Courmayeur will be your saviour.

The mountains become a walkers’ paradise in summer, with unbelievable trails from the two valleys either side.

One morning, I headed to Val Ferret, which can be accessed by bike, a free bus or car.

It’s flanked by the Mont Blanc Massif, Mont Dolent and Tour Noir.

From here you can see the gigantic Brenva Glacier — the second-longest glacier in Italy.

The valley can be enjoyed on foot, or on horseback for around €30 (£25) an hour.

But for those who prefer something more challenging, the ski area Checrouit offers uphill walks where you climb 300 metres in just an hour.

Thank goodness for the heated pool and sauna back at the Gran Baita.

I’m not sure how my limbs would have recovered without them.

Before her death in 1993, Mabel McKay — one of the last living dreamers of the Pomo Indian people — shared a prophecy while driving through the Sonoma hills. One day, this paradise would burn.

“Everything is going to go dry. Everything will burn. That’s my latest vision,” she said, gesturing to the idyllic landscape.

Startled, writer Greg Sarris asked what could be done to stop it.

“You live the best way you know how,” McKay replied.

Since her passing, Sonoma County experienced the most destructive wildfires in California history in 2017, only for another, more destructive fire to surpass it a year later. “She always used to say, ‘Whether you believe it or not, it’s true,’” Sarris recalls.

McKay and her visions are the inspiration behind Sarris’ latest work. His first novel in 28 years, “The Last Human Bear,” is loosely based on the spiritual leader McKay, whose wisdom and companionship served as a refuge to Sarris during a tumultuous childhood in Sonoma County.

A reluctant casino mogul

On a Monday morning in California, Sarris sits in his sleek office at the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria in Rohnert Park. Sarris, 74, has served as chairman of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria for more than 30 years. In his office, diplomas and academic certificates crowd the walls. A framed poster for the 2023 film “Joan Baez: I Am a Noise” hangs nearby — she’s a close friend. Behind him, an American flag ripples in the distance outside the window, blurred by the summer heat.

Just up the road sits a multibillion-dollar tribe-owned casino, Graton Resort & Casino — a project the writer oversees. “I had never been in a casino. I have a PhD in modern thought and literature from Stanford,” says Sarris.

How does an accomplished author find himself at the helm of a multibillion-dollar casino enterprise? It’s a question that still puzzles Sarris. “I told them if we can raise our people and become a platform for social justice and environmental stewardship to benefit Indian and non-Indian alike, I’ll do it.”

Before his stint as a reluctant casino mogul, Sarris was a prolific author and university professor at UCLA and Sonoma State. In 2023, he was appointed a regent of the University of California by Gavin Newsom. Over the course of his career, he published six books, and his novel “Grand Avenue” became an HBO original film in 1996.

California’s Native history: revisited

From early in his career, Sarris wanted to depict Indians as he knew them, rather than as Hollywood depicted them. “We’ve been erased by Hollywood, because the idea of Indians has always been Plains Indians or Southwest,” Sarris explains. “It’s easier for Americans to access Buffalo Bill.”

“California Indians have always been left out of the picture,” says Sarris.

“The Last Human Bear” is Sarris’ latest attempt to revive the legacy of California’s Native history. The novel follows Mary Hatcher, a Pomo Indian in Sonoma County, from Prohibition through the 21st century. It’s told in the first person through Hatcher’s compelling voice as she narrates the horror and heartbreak of her lifetime over the course of a century, echoing William Faulkner’s literary style, which influenced Sarris.

“I’m curious why you want to know about me,” reads the first line. The novel unfolds like an oral storytelling tradition, driven by a voice that Sarris painstakingly crafted, evoking his conversation with McKay. “The voice comes. I have to call it, almost like a spirit,” says Sarris. “I wanted it to feel like an oral story.”

Hatcher — a Pomo shape-shifter who dodges prejudice by passing as Mexican in the novel — is a thorny protagonist, often cunning, scheming and unforgiving. “An American Indian woman is as richly complicated as anybody else. I wanted to show this rich and complicated character who’s negotiated a history that she’s showing you,” says Sarris.

Acclaimed Northern California writer and activist Rebecca Solnit, who has authored 17 books and is a friend of Sarris’, says that she was fascinated by his ability to evoke so many aspects of female life in “The Last Human Bear.” Solnit was especially moved by Sarris’ rendering of California’s tragic history. “It’s shocking, given how rich California’s Indigenous cultures were — 99 different language groups, mythologies, belief systems and linguistic traditions. Every North American Indigenous language family is represented in California. It’s weird how this history has been erased, and how horrific what happened was.”

Climate change and ongoing ecological disasters have made Indigenous perspectives more vital than ever, the author argues. “I think Indigenous people have been hugely influential in giving us a point of view in which we were never separate from nature,” she says. According to Solnit, Sarris’ novels are part of a broader resurgence of interest in Native culture.

In the early chapters of the “The Last Human Bear,” the protagonist gets a job on a ranch by posing as Mexican, since Indians were forbidden from working as housekeepers. What follows is a tale of tension, deception and a forbidden love that sours, reminiscent of Brontë novels.

Sarris hopes that the novel illuminates an uncomfortable history of Sonoma County that remains largely invisible, looming beneath the soil of wine country. The novel offers “a history of this county that a lot of people haven’t seen,” says Sarris.

“There were more Indian people right where we’re sitting per capita than anywhere else in the entire New World outside Mexico City, which was the Aztec capital,” says Sarris. “The genocide was so horrendous.”

Identity, revenge and a search for home are themes that arise throughout the novel — subjects Sarris knows well in his own life.

Uncovering a hidden Native heritage

In 1952, Sarris’ teenage mother gave him up for adoption, her family hoping to evade the embarrassment of their Jewish daughter becoming pregnant by a Native American Filipino man. Sarris grew up in a white family in Santa Rosa alongside three siblings. His adopted father, George Sarris, became abusive, causing Greg to flee the house with his adopted mother’s blessing. “God bless her. She let me go out and live on ranches and run with other people to get away from him.”

It was in these formative years that Greg became acquainted with Native American people in Santa Rosa, always feeling a mysterious pull toward them. It was these years that also shaped his sensibility as a writer. “I was a lost kid on the streets, so I was always paying attention to everyone, listening, and people would tell me stories.”

Native Americans lived on the fringe of town, often practicing healing ceremonies that were frowned upon by white Catholic families in the suburbs Sarris explains. “When I was 15, I met Mabel McKay, who I wrote the book about. I knew she did some of those strange things that I heard about, but I liked her,” he says. “I had no idea that I was related to these people. I thought I was a mixed-blood Mexican or Spanish.”

At age 30, Sarris uncovered the identities of his birth parents and learned of his Native heritage. He learned his birth mother was buried in a pauper’s grave at the Calvary Catholic Cemetery in Santa Rosa, with “nothing to mark her grave but an upside-down horseshoe that has her name in it.” In the opening pages of the novel, a dedication to her: Bunny Hartman.

Excitedly, Sarris presented proof of his Indian heritage to McKay, his trusted confidant. “I thought it was a big deal that I had Indian blood,” says Sarris. He showed McKay a photo of his father, which she met with indifference. Naturally, Sarris was disappointed. “She told me something later: ‘You’re never any more Indian than your experience.’”

A lifelong outsider

Questions surrounding the legitimacy of Sarris’ heritage haunted him for decades and ultimately informed the novel. Being adopted by a white family, only to be shunned by the Native community, perpetuated his lifelong feeling of being an outsider. “I keep thinking maybe I just got in with this group of people and my Indian relatives so that I would feel rejected again,” he says. “We gravitate towards what we know as home emotionally.”

“I didn’t grow up on a reservation. I’m fair-skinned,” he says. “Being adopted, it feeds into that feeling of not being good enough,” he says, adding: “Illegitimacy is a medicine in the end.”

In the Native American literary community, Sarris has often felt excluded from discourse. When in doubt, he reminds himself of his involvement with the tribe. “Who among them have done this much for their people?” he asks. “Who among them has given this much time and sacrificed a writing career for their people?”

Jane Fonda, the two-time Academy Award-winning actress and activist, struck up a friendship with Sarris through a shared cause. “We met during the campaign to secure health and safety setbacks that would finally prevent oil wells from being drilled within 3,200 feet of a community. Greg and the federated tribes helped us win that fight against Big Oil,” Fonda explained in an email.

“I can tell from his books and my time with him that he embodies indigenous wisdom and beliefs,” Fonda says. “I see Greg Sarris as a man who embodies the best of two worlds — the mercantile culture of Western civilization and the indigenous world that knows we are part of nature and interdependent with it. It’s a rare and valuable combination.”

Inside the polarizing casino kingdom

The Graton Resort & Casino, launched by Sarris over 12 years ago, now plays a vital role in supporting the Pomo Indian community. “I promised early on: roof over everyone’s head, an insurance policy in every pocket and a college degree paid for,” he says. “We give $2.5 million a year in perpetuity to the University of California, so that all California Indians can go to the University of California tuition-free.” The casino has funded theater programs, youth writing intensives and revenue sharing with neighboring tribes.

On the car ride to the casino, Sarris is riffing on his friendship with Grateful Dead member Mickey Hart, who bought Sarris a quarter horse as a gift. In the casino, Sarris eagerly greets his employees with a friendliness that betrays his repeated insistence that he’s a reclusive writer. He points out blown-glass flower sculptures, an embellishment he once saw at the Four Seasons in Paris. He walks past the baccarat room, where he hosts high rollers from Beijing, whom he boasts, “play $100,000 in a hand.”

Early on, news of the casino’s construction caused waves of controversy across Sonoma County — some of which resulted in death threats against Sarris’ life. Concerns that a casino would invite debauchery into the county circulated, which Sarris points out is ironic for a community predicated on wine: “Beyond whether gambling is right or wrong, what is implicit is their privilege and elitism,” says Sarris. “People were getting scared because these brown people, who were the poorest in Sonoma County, are suddenly going to have power.”

Admittedly, Sarris says their newfound wealth has not been without repercussions in the tribe. “People who have been traumatized with generational poverty are the most vulnerable to the lure of materialism,” he says.

When time catches up

In the final chapters of “The Human Bear,” the protagonist, at the end of her life, recalls: “Human Bears often like to even the score before they die.” Revenge is futile, she concludes. “If I was going to avenge our people, I would have to poison nearabout all of history.”

Sarris recalls a similar epiphany he had speaking with McKay. He explains Pomo Indians believed that each action had a consequence. “Ethnographers always said we’re a culture predicated on black magic and fear. No, we were cultures predicated on profound respect for the complexity of all life,” says Sarris.

Then, white men came and seemingly bent the laws of natural order. “The Kashaya Pomo word for white people was ‘miracles’, because they came in and killed everything and did all these things. Nothing could come back to them,” says Sarris.

He explained to McKay that he thought of the white man’s fate differently. “Look, there’s no water. There’s no air. Everything’s poison,” he says, gesturing around him to this vast, broken world. “It’s all come back. It just took time.”

Connors is a culture journalist from Sonoma County. She covers books, food, entertainment and offbeat Los Angeles. She’s currently at work on a book of essays about tourism in all its forms.

The Latin Quarter’s cobblestone Rue Mouffetard is a walking street lined with fishmongers, bakeries, cheese shops, produce stands and cafes. Once you’ve talked triple-cream Brillat-Savarin with the cheese pros at Androuet and admired displays of glistening seafood along Mouffetard (Poissonnerie Quoniam sells fresh oysters that you eat standing with an inexpensive glass of wine), there is lunch or dinner to consider. A wonderful choice is Otto, a modern izakaya-style project with MOF chef Eric Trochon, who provided menu guidance to proprietors Stéphane Offner and Tony Alvarez-Parage plus occasional turns at the binchotan-fueled grill when he’s not running his Michelin one-star restaurant Solstice 700 meters away. Observe the action in the open kitchen from your bar seat or find an intimate corner to enjoy Otto’s small plates — maybe “fish no chips” with black curry mayonnaise, razor clams with garlic butter or celery root beignets. Oh, and at lunch you can choose three dishes for €22. A terrific deal.

5 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris

THE most beautiful pubs in the UK have been revealed – ranging from historic inns to more modern upgrades.

The winners were named in Camra’s Pub Design Awards, across a number of different categories.

The Historic England Conservation Award was given to the pub which “carefully preserved the pub’s historical architectural features“.

Coming out on top is Woodman in Birmingham, which dates back to 1897 when it was a public house for Ansells Brewery,

Since then, it has undergone a £300k renovation back in 2024, which saw the restoration of the Victorian tile walls as well as the woodwork throughout.

It is also right by Old Curzon Street Station, part of the new HS2 line which will open in 2030.

Two winners were named for the Conversion to Pub Use award, which is for buildings that were not originally built as pubs.

One of the winners is Blue Stoops in London, which used to be a wine bar.

Found near Notting Hill Gate Station, it has been turned into a pub by Allsopp’s Brewery and since its opening, people have raved about the food menu as well as the atmosphere.

The pub is a joint winner with St Peter’s Tavern in Liverpool, which is a converted Roman Catholic Church.

Much of the grand interiors remain, including the Lady Chapel and original alter.

The Leyton Engineer pub in London won the Refurbishment Award.

It originally opened in 2012 as a pop up pub for the Olympics, taking over Leyton Town Hall, and reopened in 2024 after a huge revamp.

And the Community Local Award went to Lord Southampton in London, which was praised for being a space for local groups.

Pub Design Awards judging panel chair Andrew Davison said: “In these troubled times, the pub still has a key role to play in our communities, and those who are working to conserve, repair and renovate them should rightfully be applauded.

“The Pub Design Awards recognise the extraordinary amount of effort, the imagination and design, plus high-quality craftsmanship which have gone into all of these projects”

Claudia Kenyatta and Emma Squire, co-CEOs of Historic England, added: “Pubs continue to be cherished historic spaces for people across the country.

“Each pub is distinct, telling the story of the community they stand within and continue to serve.”

IF you fancy visiting to Lake Como but can’t face the long airport queues, how about going in the opposite direction?

In the Finger Lakes region of New York State is the quiet village of Hammondsport – and it has been compared to the famous Italian lake.

Both lakes are a Y-shape, but Keuka Lake is smaller than its Italian alternate – it’s just under 20 miles long with over 60 miles of shoreline.

Meanwhile, Lake Como has a maximum length of 29 miles; however, the shoreline length is a whopping 105 miles.

Keuka Lake is much shallower too at 187 feet at its deepest, while Lake Como has a maximum depth of 1,394 feet.

You can swim in both, as well, but Keuka Lake is considered one of the cleanest and warmest of the Finger Lakes too so it’s ideal if you want to take a dip.

It might even be a better option as visitors can swim in Lake Como, but the water quality differs depending on where you enter the water.

Keuka Lake is surrounded by vineyards, much like Italy and is so pretty that one visitor called it “one of the most beautiful lakes in upstate New York“.

The Finger Lakes itself has around 140 wineries, and near Keuka Lake there’s Bully Hill Vineyards, Heron Hill Winery and Divided Sky Vineyard.

For those who really want to learn more about the wine scene, there’s even a dedicated Keuka Lake Wine Trail.

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If you head to the official website, you can pay $45 (£33) and redeem tasting flights at six of the included wineries.

At the very south of Keuka Lake is the small and charming village of Hammondsport.

There’s not too much see with it being a village, but visitors have raved about Verns Bakery, Burgers & Beers, Park Inn restaurant, Crooked Lake Ice Cream Company which is also a 50s-style diner.

A 30-minute drive down the road is Watkins Glen, a charming ‘Hallmark-like’ village.

It’s home to the ­Watkins Glen International track, where ­Formula 1 raced for 20 consecutive years from 1961 to 1980 before Nascar took over.

Head to Depot Park for views across the water – and this is the spot if you want to hire out your own boat.

With multiple boats, you can hire them out for the day from $535 (£398) – split between eight (which is the maximum passengers), that’s just under £50per person.

If you want to stay in Hammondsport, check out Park Inn which has just five suites above its restaurant.

Rates start from $150 (£111) per night (with a two-night minimum stay).

Or there’s the Vine Inn & Carriage Houses which is described as a ‘serene retreat’ and is a 10-minute walk from the lake.

If the heat of Italy during the summer is what you’re afraid of missing out on, then rest assured, it will still be just as hot.

In the summertime, the Finger Lakes region can reach temperatures of 28C with it cooling down in the following months.

THE Algarve is known for its beautiful beaches, so much so that lots get very busy during the summer.

If you want the beauty of Albufeira and Lagos but with much fewer crowds, consider the city of Tavira instead.

The little-known Portuguese town of Tavira has whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs and what all the Brits like from a holiday, plenty of golden beaches.

Not only is it on the coast, but thanks to its spot either side of the River Gilão, Tavira is nicknamed the ‘Venice of Portugal’.

It’s also so pretty that it’s often described as the Algarve that “locals keep to themselves”.

If you’re in search of a pretty swim spot, you’ll have to head to Tavira Island just outside of the Ria Formosa Natural Park.

The island is protected by Portuguese law, but can still be visited by holidaymakers.

It also has an impressive sandy beach that stretches on for over six miles; here, holidaymakers can rent parasols, sunloungers, kayaks, and paddleboards.

According to The Algarve Tourist Guide: “Tavira Beach is considered to be one of the best beaches in the Algarve Region.”

The main beach on the island is Blue Flag so it’s ideal for swimming, and won’t be as crowded as those in the west of the region.

Lots of visitors say that they didn’t expected the island to be so “beautiful”.

Others call the beach “unspoiled” and has “no problem with crowds”.

Another spot on the island is Barril Beach, which is home to an Anchor Cemetery where abandoned anchors from the tuna fishing era are displayed on the sandbank.

The nature reserve is also home to around 20,000 different species of birds, including pink flamingos.

From Tavira, it can be reached on foot over the bridge, or hop on the regular ferry.

Taviro is cheaper than other spots in the Algarve too – if you head to the historic Rua dos Pelames you’ll find bars where you can pick up vinho verde for just a few euros.

For food, head to Restaurant O Noel, a family-run taverna serving up fresh seafood from tuna steak to squid.

You can pick up a huge sharing plate of Algarvian clams for around €12 (£10.35).  

For shopping, there’s the Mercado Municipal de Tavira, a food market which is fully stocked before 11 o’clock in the morning.

And dotted about are little boutiques, independent markets and shops around too.

With TUI, holidaymakers can stay at the AP Maria Nova Lounge Hotel.

It has three swimming pools, two restaurants, two bars, a spa, gym and pretty rooms with terraces and balconies.

In July, a seven-night stay starts from £684 for a twin room with bed & breakfast including flights from London Stansted to Faro Airport.

Faro to Tavira is a 35-minute drive.