River

‘I’m hoping to meet a river goddess’: a wild journey through Britain’s mythic waterways | United Kingdom holidays

It’s just past midday and I appear to be inside a rain cloud. Soaked to the skin, my walking boots squelching through tufts of grass and black bog mud, I can hear hundreds of streams rolling off this wide mid-Wales peak, each vying to be the fastest. I’ve hiked around more than 8 miles (13km) of Hafren Forest trails to the top of Mount Pumlumon Fawr (Plynlimon), to reach a wooden post carved with the words Source of the Severn. And I’m here, alone, because I’m hoping to meet a river goddess.

It’s perhaps not as strange as it first sounds. Starting about 150 years ago, the folklorist John Rhys travelled across Wales to archive as many local myths as possible, and among them was the very tale that brought me to this peak: the story of the birth of the River Severn, in which three sisters – Hafren (Severn), Rheidolyn (Rheidol) and Gwy (Wye) – each choose their own route to the sea. My trip to the river’s source was itself a moment of mythically inspired travel, something that has been common practice in the British Isles for as long as we’ve told stories, not least as a means of passing them on.

The writer channels her inner goddess at the Gower peninsula, south Wales. Photograph: Ben Holbrook

Folklore is experiencing a revival in Britain, whether it’s in wild tales told around festival campfires or in the rise of Mabinogion-inspired romantasy fiction. I was here on my own adventure, travelling around the islands to rediscover our lost goddess myths and what they mean for modern womanhood, for my new book, No Fair Maidens. My journey took me from Somerset to Skye, from Gower to Eryri, and was less about archaeological sightseeing and more a journey into the landscape and waterways themselves: the river sources, lakesides, spring wells and seashores that feature so vividly in old lore.

Water, it seems, is often the site of powerful women and magical happenings. In Roman and perhaps pre-Roman times, Britannia was a network of waterways represented by goddesses, from Sulis’ hot spring in Bath to Coventina’s well near Carrawburgh on Hadrian’s Wall. For centuries, wells and river sources have been places of pilgrimage for people to bring their wishes, throwing in stones and coins and asking for help from forces unseen. They are also places where magic can sometimes cross over. In local Welsh myth, the Ffynone waterfall is regarded as a portal to the mystical Otherworld, where the goddess Rhiannon lived before riding her white horse into the real world to choose a husband. Up the road at Llyn y Fan Fach in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), the mountain lake is known as the home of a beautiful nymph who agrees to marry a mere mortal, only to return to the waters, taking her large dowry with her, when he breaks their covenant.

Legend has it that Ffynone waterfall is a portal to the mystical Otherworld. Photograph: Birds Online/Getty Images

The shores are also home to some of our most renowned female fighters. On the Isle of Skye, in the dark ruins of Dunscaith Castle on the edge of Loch Eishort, we meet Scáthach: a fearsome Scottish warrioress from eighth-century Irish mythology, who was tasked with training Celtic princes to become warriors. She was said to be invincible, wielding supreme combat skills and a giant spiked spear, leading many a man to seek out her tutelage. Today, it is easy to picture her on the battlements, battered by wind and rain, wearily awaiting the next wannabe hero.

Indeed, as I travel across the island, powerful women weave through our folklore so readily that they feel like a source code, even though their stories are mostly unmarked in the landscapes from which they come. In England on the River Stour, I hear the 12th-century legend of Gwendoline, who was said to have raised an army in Cornwall and seized the crown from her cheating husband’s dead hands, making her the mythic first queen of a peaceful, united England. Further down the road as I climb Glastonbury Tor, it’s the matriarchal myth of Avalon that’s calling me, the tale of a magical island of sisters bound by the powers of shapeshifting, healing and prophecy. It’s wild to imagine that Britain might once have been home to that benevolent circle of women.

Llyn y Fan Fach in Bannau Brycheiniog (the Brecon Beacons) has its own lady of the lake legend. Photograph: James Osmond/Getty Images

It seems as if, across Britain, the landscape is brought to life through story. As I discuss in my book, exploring the island through the lens of myth and folklore invites us to see Britain in a different light; as a place full of wonder, where wild and strange things are possible. And with more of us investigating how to build a stronger, healthier connection with the natural world, folklore and myth can create a kind of bridge, inviting us to see waterways less as “resources” and more as living beings with their own stories and a curious will of their own. This is Britain, but not as you know it; and perhaps by travelling through the landscape with myths as our guides, we might find new inspiration too.

Back on Mount Plynlimon, I was never quite sure how to go about meeting a river goddess, lacking the rituals and training our ancestors might once have known. But perhaps it was enough simply to know her story, so I could appreciate the land a little better. Whenever I see a river now, I can’t help saying hello, still in awe of how vast she has become, and how quickly she grew from nothing.

Kim Willis is the author of No Fair Maidens: A Wild Journey with the Lost Goddesses of Britain (Doubleday, £20). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.

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Carney says the new Canadian-built bridge across Detroit River that Trump threatened will open

A new Canadian-built bridge across the Detroit River that U.S. President Donald Trump threatened to block will open soon, Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney said Tuesday.

A ribbon-cutting ceremony for the Gordie Howe International Bridge, jointly owned by Canada and the U.S. state of Michigan, is set to take place on Friday, while the bridge itself is expected to open to traffic later this month.

In February, Trump demanded that Canada turn over at least half the ownership of the bridge to the U.S. federal government and agree to other unspecified demands in one of his many salvos over cross-border trade issues.

The bridge, which would connect Windsor, Ontario, and Detroit, and would be a vital economic artery between Canada and the United States, had been expected to open early this year, according to information on the project’s website.

The bridge is named after Howe, the late Canadian hockey great who spent 25 seasons with the Detroit Red Wings.

The project was negotiated by former Michigan Gov. Rick Snyder — a Republican — and paid for by the Canadian government to help ease congestion over the existing Ambassador Bridge and Detroit-Windsor tunnel. Work has been underway since 2018.

“Obviously the bridge will be open at the end of the week. A symbol of, but also a fact of cooperation between our countries,” Carney told reporters as he walked into Parliament.

“Great for Canadians going across the border, Americans coming across the border, and for commerce,” he said, calling it “positive news.”

Trump threatened the bridge as the United States-Mexico-Canada trade agreement is up for review this year, and Trump has been taking a hard-line position before those talks, including by issuing new tariff threats.

Carney, meanwhile, has spoken out on the world stage against economic coercion by the United States.

Sen. Elissa Slotkin, a Michigan Democrat, has said that the Canadian-funded project is a “huge boon” to her state and its economic future.

Michigan is a swing state that Trump carried in both 2016 and 2024.

Snyder wrote in an op-ed in The Detroit News earlier this year that Trump was wrong in asserting that Canada owns both the U.S. and Canadian sides of the Gordie Howe bridge.

“Canada and the state of Michigan are 50/50 owners of the new bridge,” Snyder wrote. “Canada was wonderful and financed the entire bridge. They will get repaid with interest from the tolls. Michigan and the United States got their half-ownership with no investment.”

The Gordie Howe bridge will join the privately owned Ambassador Bridge as the second span connecting Detroit and Windsor, Ontario.

The rival Ambassador Bridge is considered the busiest U.S.-Canadian border crossing, carrying 25% of all trade between the two countries. It plays an especially important role in auto manufacturing.

Companies controlled by the Moroun family, owners of the rival Ambassador Bridge, previously sued to prevent the Howe bridge from being built.

Gillies writes for the Associated Press.

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Netanyahu says Israeli forces have crossed Lebanon’s Litani River | Israel attacks Lebanon

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Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu said Israeli forces had crossed the Litani River in southern Lebanon and were operating in Beirut and the Bekaa Valley, in what he described as a “tactical victory”. This comes after Netanyahu said he ordered the Israeli military to take control of 70% of the Gaza Strip.

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Massive new ‘floating’ lido to open in the UK next month and it’s right on the river

THE UK isn’t short of lidos but a new ‘floating’ swimming pool is opening right by the River Thames next month.

Sea Lanes in Canary Wharf’s Eden Dock will be opening on June 19 and will be a year-round swimming attraction.

Illustration of the new UK water attraction, Sea Lanes Canary Wharf, with a floating pool, wellness events area, and saunas.
A new lido is set to open in the UK next month Credit: Canarywharf.com
Interior of a sauna with wooden walls, tiered seating, and dark timber benches.
The attraction will have a 50-metre pool and two saunas Credit: Instagram

The venue is billing itself as “London’s leading destination for open water swimming, health and wellbeing”.

Visitors will be able to dive into a 50-metre-long and 1.3-metre-deep floating swimming pool, with six lanes and then – for after a refreshing dip – there will also be two saunas.

The attraction will feature a clubhouse as well, with year-round wellness events such as talks and members’ socials and a place to grab food and drink.

The first event will be on June 25 and will be an Open Water Masterclass with Olympian Katy Sexton, who will coach swimmers and share pro tips.

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If visitors want to rent a wetsuit, they can do so at a small store too.

The pool will be open from 6am to 9pm Monday to Friday and from 7am to 7pm at the weekends.

Visitors can opt for different memberships including the Founder Membership for the first 500 members which costs £75 a month and includes swim and sauna access.

Alternatively, visitors can pay-per-swim, which will cost £10 for a swim session, £10 for a sauna session or £18 for both.

The pool hopes to be able to help swimmers transition from pools to open water.

Joe McNulty, director at Sea Lanes previously said: “Sea Lanes Canary Wharf will be more than just a swimming pool – it will be an urban oasis for health and wellbeing all set within the green and biodiverse waterfront of Eden Dock.”

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I tried the European river cruise where your wine glass is never empty

AFTER my sixth glass of wine, the boat began to rock – the first time in three days I felt like I was on the water.

Cruising down France’s majestic River Loire on board CroisiEurope’s Loire Princesse, I had to put it down to my slightly tipsy state, as until then, the unique long, low vessel had drifted along peacefully for the entire voyage.

The cruise ship Loire Princess will take you from Nantes to Saint-Nazaire on the west coast and back again Credit: Getty
Le Grand Elephant in Nantes Credit: Getty

The ship has side-mounted paddle wheels and is designed to sail on France’s last wild river, known for its shallowness.

There’s a relaxed atmosphere on board, and unlike its ocean-going cousins, the Loire Princesse has a vibe that’s all about enjoying the slower pace   —   eating, drinking and snoozing as you pass through stunning scenery.

I joined the four-night Croisi-Europe sailing just a day after my 30th birthday and the gentle pace of the cruise was exactly what I needed after big celebrations back in London.

If you thought river cruises were for older folks you’d largely be right — I was the youngest person on board by about 20 years.

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But that is not to say it was sedate — there was an open bar and at dinner my glass was constantly topped up.

Servers eventually just left entire bottles of red on our table.

The Loire Princesse took us from Nantes to Saint-Nazaire on the west coast and back again.

And Nantes, the sixth largest French city, was a highlight of the trip.

The Chateau de Villandry Credit: Supplied
The region’s wine is superb Credit: Supplied

Just an hour’s flight from London, it is the perfect weekend getaway destination, with all the charm of a French city without the bustle of Paris or the remoteness of Provence.

With clean, cobbled streets, Nantes is home to plenty of exiles from Paris looking for a cheaper, quieter life, and the city feels like a mini version of it.

From July to September, follow the Green Line, or Le Voyage à Nantes — literally painted on to the pavement, it leads you through the city to discover hidden street art, pop-up installations and all the best viewing points, without needing a map.

Another arty must-do is Les Machines de I’île — unique steampunk-like artistic projects inspired by the fantasy worlds of 19th-century writer Jules Verne, who was born in Nantes.

The Grand Elephant is a 40ft mechanical jumbo made of wood and steel that walks across the quay at the city’s former shipyards, trumpeting and spraying water at unsuspecting onlookers.

You can even ride inside it.

And you can admire Le Carrousel des Mondes Marins — a giant, three-storey carousel filled with mechanical sea monsters which you can operate yourself.

And I am sure you’ll be inspired to create something beautiful yourself after a tipple or two in the Loire Valley.

The region is home to its own variety of vino — Muscadet — grown at the western end of the valley.

Muscadet is a dry, crisp white and is currently going through a bit of a renaissance, so an opportunity to visit one of the world-class wineries in the region is an absolute must.

On my trip, there were three day-trip excursions from the cruise, one of which was included in the price of the voyage, the others costing around £68 each.

In one day-long excursion from the cruise we travelled south of Nantes to the beautiful vineyard of Cassemichere.

Jules Verne was born in Nantes Credit: Alamy
Inside the ship’s dining area Credit: Supplied

Rather dramatically, our guide told us how the vintner’s brother had died just three weeks earlier, after opening a tank and being poisoned by the carbon dioxide flowing out.

Like the bizarre plot of some twisted nursery rhyme, the poor man had then fallen into the wine.

But I didn’t let that put me off the tasting, and I can confirm that the white made at Cassemichere pairs well with seafood.

We also visited nearby Clisson, a medieval village known for its unique Italian-inspired architecture, with a charming river flowing through the middle of it.

Clisson is the kind of place they stick on the front of the tourist brochure — large trees hanging over the flowing water with an old bridge to cross it.

It was full of history as well, and with typical French frankness, our guide told us how, in the 18th century, women had been boiled at the castle during the Revolution.

On another day trip from the boat we visited two gorgeous chateaus in the centre of the Loire Valley.

The beautiful homes are now museums, with manicured gardens which were lovely to walk around on a blue-sky day.

Each day trip came with a three-course lunch and again, plenty of wine.

At the Chateau de Villandry — a world heritage site — we ate a beautiful chicken lunch in a spot where weddings are hosted.

After all that wine and food I was in desperate need of a nap when we got back to the boat.

Luckily for us, the rooms were cleaned every day, had a sizeable bathroom and were quiet.

Cabins on the main deck have picture windows to admire the scenery as it glides by Credit: Supplied
The Loire Princesse has a vibe that’s all about enjoying the slower pace   —   eating, drinking and snoozing Credit: Supplied

Cabins on the upper deck have balconies, while those on the main deck have picture windows to watch the scenery glide by.

When it came to the evening’s festivities, an intercom in our room would call us to the lounge, where we would enjoy several pre-dinner drinks.

Then, in a nice touch by staff, we would have our dinner menu announced to us.

As with the included breakfast and lunch, dinner was an à-la-carte affair.

Think refined French comfort food — plenty taking inspiration from the surrounding Loire region, including fresh seafood and local cheeses.

And, of course, the wine flowed freely — particularly the Muscadet, which was available every night with whatever dish.

In summer months, the ship’s sun deck with its deck chairs and sun loungers is the perfect place to enjoy another cheeky glass while soaking up the sun.

With its access to stunning cities and chateaus, fine food and wine, river cruises don’t only appeal to the older lot on board.

From now on I am a convert too — and got the boat rocking!

GO: RIVER LOIRE

GETTING / SAILING THERE: A five-night cruise on board CroisiEurope’s Loire Princesse is from £1,355pp including return flights from Gatwick,

French transfers, all meals and drinks on board, full day excursion to the chateaus of the Loire Valley and wifi.

Call 01756 691 269 or visit croisieurope.co.uk.

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Unique Victorian lido with outdoor lazy river & elephant slides is reopening this month

A POPULAR English lido is re-opening just in time for summer – and it’s had a total makeover.

The outdoor splash park featuring fun elephant slides and a lazy river will welcome back families later this month, following a refresh.

Large outdoor swimming pool with blue water and white pathways, featuring a small waterslide and yellow steps, under a partly cloudy sky.
The outdoor water park is a must-visit in the warm weather Credit: Unknown
A gray elephant water slide with colorful striped legs in an empty water park.
Adorable elephant water slides are among the attractions Credit: Unknown

An opening date for The Strand Lido and Leisure Park in Gillingham has been confirmed.

The refurbished Kent lido, which has the UK’s only remaining riverside tidal saltwater pool, will begin bringing the summer fun from Saturday May 23.

It will first be open for weekends, before offering its facilities seven days a week in the school summer holidays.

Two pool sessions are set to run every day the lido is open. The first from 10.30am to 1.30pm and the second from 2.30pm to 5.30pm.

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Entry to sessions must be booked online. While children under three go free, adult tickets are £8.15, with junior and senior tickets priced at £5.35.

The spruced up lido was revived last year, funded by contributions from housing developments to Medway Council.

The Strand, which first opened in 1896, now features a new splash pad for children aged three to 11.

There’s also a beach-themed play area with 30 sensor-activated water jets alongside the large outdoor pool, elephant-shaped water slides and a 300 metre lazy river.

Those who love a long swim can make use of the open-air pool’s six 25 metre lanes.

After a day of water play, families can relax with a refreshment at the Victorian lido’s cafe, enjoy a hit on the refurbished tennis courts or take on a round of mini golf.

There’s even a miniature train for little ones to ride.

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‘Epic’ Netflix drama hailed ‘better than Virgin River’ gets thrilling update

A new hit Netflix series is returning for its second season just over a year after its stunning debut last year

The hit show has been called “cowboy Virgin River” by fans.

Netflix’s Ransom Canyon has officially announced a release date for its eagerly awaited second season, and fans won’t have to wait much longer.

The popular Western drama launched last April and brought viewers an epic family saga unfolding on a Texas ranch, with the powerful romance between Staten Kirkland (portrayed by Josh Duhamel) and Quinn O’Grady (Minka Kelly) taking centre stage.

The first season exposed the shocking truth surrounding the death of Staten’s son while the stoic rancher slowly grows closer to Quinn, his long-time family friend and proprietor of the local dancehall.

At the same time, charming and mysterious drifter Yancy (Jack Schumacher) arrives in town to reconnect with his long-lost grandfather and embarks on a romance of his own, only to unveil a startling secret in the jaw-dropping finale.

The programme has drawn favourable comparisons to Netflix’s other hit small-town romance, Virgin River, with some Redditors even declaring the new series is “so much better”, reports the Express.

Netflix Tudum has this week announced that the gripping drama will return on Thursday, 23rd July, with all eight episodes dropping.

Creator April Blair has disclosed that the much-anticipated follow-up will resume six months after Quinn’s decision to leave home to chase a dream job in New York.

“In that time, she didn’t speak to Staten at all,” actress Kelly disclosed. And Duhamel confirms: “He missed her. Staten has been masking that with his behaviour.

“So when he finds out Quinn is back, Staten realises that he’s made some mistakes, and he wants to make it right.”

Season two will also follow the blossoming teenage romance between high schoolers Lauren (Lizzy Greene) and Lucas (Garrett Wareing), while Yancy is likely in hot water with bartender Ellie (Marianly Tejada) following the arrival of a woman claiming to be his wife in the season finale.

“We’ve also built out the world even more this season,” showrunner Blair reveals. “Quinn’s mother, Claire – played by Patricia Clarkson, who’s an icon – comes to town, and she’s a little Postcards from the Edge meets The Notebook.

“What did she do to mess up? We find out there’s some secrets from the past.”

Alongside Clarkson, several fresh faces join the cast, including High Potential’s Steve Howey as Staten’s half-brother Levi, a rugged outdoorsman who lives off the land.

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Sky is giving away a free Netflix subscription with its new Sky Stream TV bundles, including the £15 Essential TV plan.

This lets members watch live and on-demand TV content without a satellite dish or aerial and includes hit shows.

This includes the brand new UK drama Unchosen, starring Asa Butterfield and Christopher Eccleston.

Ben Robson (Vikings) and Heidi Engerman (Chicago Fire) have also signed on, with familiar faces returning including Casey W. Johnson, Tatanka Means, Justin Johnson Cortez, Kenny Miller, Philip Winchester, Jennifer Ens, Brett Cullen, Lauren Glazier, and Niko Guardado.

Netflix’s synopsis for season two states: “Season two begins six months after the events of the first season, with rancher Staten fighting to reclaim his legacy after being unseated as trustee of his family’s Double K Ranch.

“Meanwhile, musician Quinn must decide if her heart truly belongs in the small town she once tried to outrun or in the fast-paced world of New York City. Are the pair star-crossed lovers, or fated to be together? In Ransom Canyon, true love stories are messy, complicated, and always worth the wait.”

Ransom Canyon season 2 premieres Thursday, 23rd July on Netflix.

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