Cromore Retreat in Northern Ireland’s Portstewart has just opened a series of the kind of bubble domes that have been setting Instagram and TikTok alight this year

If you’ve been on Instagram or TikTok this past year and your algorithm has a travel slant, there’s a very good chance you’ve seen the bubble tents.

There are countless wanderlusty clips of people twirling around in large inflatable dome tents that look as if they’ve been blown out by a giant with an oversized pot of bubbles. They are striking, beautiful structures, standing three or four metres high, often on top of rolling hills or in the middle of woodland.

But to my eyes, there is also something a little insubstantial, let alone gimmicky, about the translucent tents that had left me wondering if they were more Temu yurt than Glastonbury tipi. So when I visited Portstewart in Northern Ireland at the beginning of this week, and was given the opportunity to stay in a bubble of my own, I was intrigued and a little skeptical.

The bubbles in question are set up on the grounds of the Cromore House, built by the town’s founder John Cromie back in 1776. From the outside at least, the considerable property appears to be empty today, having recently ceased operating as a care home. If anything, the lack of movement at the grand house was a benefit. For the duration of my trip, I didn’t see a soul, which left me feeling cut off from the world in exactly the right way.

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The outside

With the lockbox keys, I let myself into a private, wood-fenced area with trees lining the perimeter and a dome in the centre. “Won’t they see you naked?” my wife had asked when I explained that the accommodation walls were completely see-through. Happily, ‘they’ may as well not have existed, so private and snugly tucked away are the bubbles.

The location is perfect. A 40-minute walk out through the woods takes you to the highly rated Portstewart Arms, where perfect pints of Guinness go for £5, or you can stay on-site and enjoy a steam in the communal sauna.

The inside

Inside the bubbles is where the action really is. On a brisk October day, I was relieved to find the dome warmed to a very snug 22 °C thanks to a ground-source heat pump. My particular accommodation, the McDonnell Suite (named after a former estate owner), consisted of three domes squashed together.

One is occupied by the shower and toilet, which are wisely hidden from the rest of the dome by a partition wall and from the outside world by some tastefully opaque section of dome. It comes complete with an information-rich smart tablet and a high-tech touchscreen mirror.

The central bubble stands in for the living room. A low coffee table sits between two armchairs, a comfortable spot for reading. There’s also a tea and coffee area with a Nespresso machine and a fridge stocked with a breakfast hamper from Chestnutt’s Farm in Portrush. As in Covid, there is a joy in the isolation that comes with bubbles. Instead of trooping over to a breakfast buffet, Cromore Retreat guests are given everything they need for a solitary and delicious start to the day: soda bread, strawberry jam, granola, absurdly creamy butter, and a little bottle of particularly thick milk.

Hungry after an afternoon’s surfing, I ripped this open a good 14 hours early and tucked in, in the third and final wing, the bedroom. Here you will find a wide four-posted bed with curtains around the side but no roof, allowing you to wall yourself in and watch the stars twinkling through the tree canopy above.

At the end of the bed is a large standalone tub in which I ate my way through the breakfast box while enjoying a long, needlessly indulgent soak.

The final feature, and arguably the stand-out, is the private hot tub that sits outside the dome. To my shame, I did not bubble in it, forgoing the ultimate indulgence of a solo jacuzzi on a Monday evening in favour of a second bath and then a quite flawless night’s sleep.

The verdict

I was entirely wrong. There is nothing gimmicky or insubstantial about these see-through domes. They are pure, indulgent, slightly silly fun, right until you check out and step into the bubble-bursting Northern Irish drizzle.

Book it

Stays cost from £235 a night, with breakfast hampers costing an additional £20. Go to cromoreretreat.com/book

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