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I stayed in the beautiful British valley that locals want to keep a secret

WANDERING through the garden of Wastwater Cottage, the only sounds I hear are birdsong, the occasional bleat from a Herdwick lamb and the brook at the end of the garden.

The 15th-century four-bedroom farmhouse is the perfect pick for an off-grid break in the British countryside.

The Lake District hosts some of England’s most striking scenery Credit: Getty
Jess stayed at Wastwater Cottage in wild and remote Eskdale Credit: Supplied

My partner Owain and I had initially come to the Lake District with the ambitious plan of tackling some of the biggest mountains in the national park.

But upon arriving in the Cumbrian village of Boot, we were immediately sidetracked.

On our doorstep were two fantastic pubs — The Boot and Brook House — as well as a gift shop and the oldest working water mill in the UK.

Our accommodation was via Bridge End Farm Cottages, which has several luxury self-catering homes in the Eskdale Valley — one of the UK’s best Dark Sky spots.

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Our cottage featured rear doors on to a garden, which meant twinkling stars could be easily admired at night.

And each morning we would tuck into breakfast croissants outside as we watched birds of prey hunting on the mountain in front of us.

Inside were stacks of boardgames, as well as Sky TV and a grand piano.

But the highlight of the property was undoubtedly its location.

The Cumbrian Mountains from Wastwater are a sight to behold, while the lake is the deepest in England Credit: Getty
Stop by at picturesque Ambleside, which you can access via a quick boat trip Credit: Getty

From our doorstep, we could embark on dozens of walks over the Western Fells.

These include one from spectacular Wastwater lake, the deepest in England, to Stanley Ghyll waterfall — or another up England’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike.

We started our weekend by following the brook down to the River Esk, walking through luscious green forests that are home to native red squirrels.

Children will be sure to love the stepping stones across to the opposite bank.

Of a warm summer’s day, there are also dozens of natural swimming pools to cool off in after a day exploring.

If you head in the opposite direction from the cottage, you can take a footpath up to the ancient White Moss stone circle and enjoy spectacular views of Scafell Pike — without the challenging four-hour hike up to its summit.

En route, we passed hundreds of the Herdwick sheep that live on the mountains year-round.

It turns out this hardy breed was saved from decline by Peter Rabbit author Beatrix Potter, who bred her own flocks in the area.

From here we made a descent into Eskdale, which is a slightly larger village about three miles from Boot.

The village is home to a fantastic — and unexpected — Japanese garden, adorned with maple trees and exotic plants.

Take the trip on the Ravenglass to Eskdale Railway through the countryside Credit: Getty
The railway was built in 1873 and the steam trains run daily – even serving afternoon tea Credit: Alamy

An ornate footbridge over a pond is the centrepiece, and despite being on the steep side, the walk around takes only 15 minutes.

With slightly sore legs, we decided to take the vintage steam train from Eskdale back to Boot and our holiday home.

The Eskdale-to-Ravenglass railway was built in 1873 to transport iron ore mined in the valley to the coastline, but nowadays the trains run daily as an attraction, with afternoon tea available to pre-book.

In a charming tradition, passengers must flag down the driver to board, which really adds to the fun.

If you do want to travel somewhere that’s not reachable on foot, car is by far the easiest method of transport. We used Turo (think Airbnb for cars) to rent a vehicle at a much lower cost than a mainstream service.

Driving around, you’ll likely see some pretty cool spots.

Our route took us via the UK’s steepest road, Hardknott Pass — and about halfway up we came across a fabulous 2nd-century Roman fort.

It was well worth getting out to explore, as its walls are the best preserved of any ancient fort in Britain — and free to admire.

For nature lovers, the wonderful Lake District Wildlife Park, just over an hour away from the cottage by car, is home to more than 100 species of birds and mammals, both native and exotic.

Grizedale Forest is definitely one for the kids, featuring a Gruffalo orienteering trail, plus a Go Ape high-ropes centre and the Grizedale Observatory.

There are also boat trips across Windermere, which run every day from Ambleside.

The latter is close to the Beatrix Potter Museum and boasts dozens of boutique shops and cafes.

One of the beauties of staying in the Eskdale Valley is you can tick off all these main attractions but still stay away from the crowds.

As one local whispered to us about the valley’s beauty and tranquillity: “Don’t tell anyone about it.”

I hope she’ll forgive me before I return.

GO: Lake District

STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ self-catering at the eight-person Wastwater Cottage is from £875.

See premiercottages.co.uk.

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I stayed at the cosy English hotel with a ‘Best of British’ menu

IF you are wanting a beautiful hotel stay with some fantastic classic British food, we’ve found just the place.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at the Pheasant Inn.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at The Pheasant Inn Credit: Facebook/@The Pheasant Inn
The Pheasant Inn rooms are near the M4 Credit: Facebook/@The Pheasant Inn

Where is the Pheasant Inn?

The hotel is a minute’s drive from the M4 in the Berkshire Downs Area of Outstanding National Beauty.

What is the hotel like?

This 450-year-old Young’s inn was the perfect R&R for my wife and I on our way home after rainy camping in Wales.

What are the rooms like?

As we entered our room, birdsong through the window competed check with Classic it out FM humming from a Roberts radio.

Egyptian cotton linen with a Hypnos mattress, carefully curated books and minibar snacks including gourmet crisps, nuts, olives and Smarties, along with Bramley bath products, completed the welcome.

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Double rooms from £98 on a room-only basis. See thepheasant-inn.co.uk.

What is there to eat and drink?

Head chef Santosh and his team “bring their own secrets” to the Pheasant restaurant’s “best of British” menu – and they work magic.

I dined on crayfish with Bloody Mary sauce and caper berries, rump steak then chocolate cheesecake with vanilla ice-cream, cherry hazelnut and honeycomb.

My wife enjoyed salmon pate with pickled veg, herbcrusted lamb cutlet with carrot puree, broad-bean mousse, king oyster mushroom and jus, then sticky toffee pudding.

It was a miracle we could face the banging Full English brekkie the next day.

What else is there to do there?

You may spot a jockey or three at the bar, as Lambourn is famed for its racehorse training and nearby Newbury Racecourse.

Great trekking and cycling abound, or browse antique shops at Hungerford, ride a narrowboat on the Kennet and Avon Canal and venture into Marlborough.

Visit in the summer and make the most of the outdoor area Credit: Facebook/@The Pheasant Inn

Is it family friendly?

Families can pay an extra £15 a night for beds that sleep ages 2-14, while those under two stay for free.

They also have ‘Borrow Boxes’ in the room with activities for kids to use while there.

Is the hotel accessible?

There is wheelchair access to the restaurant and some of the rooms are on the ground floor.

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I stayed at the boutique seaside town hotel with London-style cocktail bar and in-room massages

An image collage containing 3 images, Image 1 shows The Ship Hotel, Leigh on Sea, UK, Image 2 shows A hotel balcony overlooking the sea, with champagne chilling in a bucket and two full glasses on a small table, Image 3 shows Hotel room at The Ship Hotel, featuring a bed with a light blue headboard and black and white framed photos of fishermen, boats, and the sea on the wall

IF you want a break by the sea, then now is the best time to visit The Ship after a huge makeover last year.

Here’s everything you need to know.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at The Ship
The rooms recently had a huge makeover

Where is The Ship hotel?

Starting life as a fisherman’s pub, The Ship has stood at the foot of the hill in Leigh-on-Sea since the 18th century.

What is the hotel like?

However, the building was given a stylish makeover in 2025 and is now a cosy, coastal retreat with sea views and spacious, modern rooms.

What are the rooms like?

This boutique hotel has 15 rooms and a very welcoming and homely feel.

Check-in at the bar is relaxed and you also have the option to digitally check-in in advance, which is very convenient.

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I was impressed with the guest rooms, which hit the perfect note in combining comfort and design.

The Endeavour Suite feels extra special.

For a small price upgrade, you get a loft-style room with a sofa and living area, sea views from a large window and a terrace overlooking the water.

Newly decorated, a lot of effort has gone into making these rooms a sanctuary for guests. Be warned if you have an early start, though.

Fluffy duvets and pillows, along with the snug mattresses make it very difficult to leave.

Rooms start from £102 including breakfast. Visit theshiphotel.co.uk or call 01702 413452 for 15% off by booking directly with the hotel.

What is there to eat and drink?

Definitely eat at the hotel, which has excellent food.

Being so close to the coast the main menu leans toward seafood dishes, with vegetables and meat from local Essex farms.

They also serve fantastic Sunday roasts.

The beef-dripping Yorkshire puddings with Malden sea salt are worth making a reservation for, even if you’re not staying overnight at the hotel.

As well as the laid-back restaurant, there is also a small, but excellent bar.

More fitting of a swanky London cocktail club, the creative menu includes smoke-infused martinis and very spicy margaritas.

If you are staying a few days, I highly recommend getting a reservation at GABS too, which is a cute, bohemian restaurant across the road.

They also serve creative cocktails and have a sophisticated menu. I suggest going for a choice of ‘picky bits’. The whipped feta with honey, figs and pistachio, served with sourdough is frankly superb.  

What else is there to do nearby?

Some rooms include parking in the private car park outside is a great find and absolutely perfect for a weekend away in Essex.

They also offer in-room massages, meaning with a great restaurant and cocktails on your very own roof terrace, you might decide you don’t even need to leave the hotel.

Otherwise the Ship Hotel is perfectly positioned to explore the surprisingly adorable town of Leigh-on-Sea.

You can easily reach Leigh Old Town, on the water’s edge, which I also happened to have a perfect view of from my room.

There are lots of pubs, bars and seafood shacks, many with seating on an outdoor terrace, idyllic in summer.

You can also walk up the hill to New Leigh and the charming high street, which is packed with cool coffee shops, quirky boutiques and trendy bars that are very popular over the weekend.

The grand finale was a view of the spectacular sunset from my room – not always guaranteed, but stunning if you get lucky.

Is the hotel family friendly?

There are family and interconnecting rooms, as well as cots and highchairs on request.

is it accessible?

The hotel has wheelchair access and a lift to all floors, along with accessible rooms that have adapted bathrooms.

Upgrade to a room with a terrace for drinks over the ocean
Rooms start from £102

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I stayed in England’s most easterly town that’s had a huge makeover

IF your Great British getaway needs a glow-up, look no further than England’s most easterly town.

Lowestoft in Suffolk has had a mega refresh, with millions of pounds poured into its seafront, caravan site and theme park.

Lowestoft’s seafront and the Claremont Pier Credit: Supplied
The colourful seafront beach huts Credit: Supplied

When I headed there with my family of five, the town’s revival was apparent from the moment we rolled into Park Holidays’ Pakefield caravan park.

It is tucked away in a quiet patch south of the main town centre where it overlooks the sea and is surrounded by open fields.

And it has had more than just a lick of paint.

A £6million cash injection has seen the addition of a heated indoor pool, toddler splash zone, playground, arcade and bar/restaurant.

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Wandering around the park, one notices an upmarket vibe.

The lobby has a high-spec finish and the attention to detail here is fantastic.

The luxe feel then continues in the new caravans, with large beds and master en-suites.

If your goal is to unwind, then you won’t be disappointed.

The park is less about pumping out late-night music than delivering holiday-site staples — pool, arcade, bar and karts — to a high standard.

The Coastal Bar and Restaurant hosts Saturday night entertainment for the whole family — which includes furry friends, with dog beds dotted around the terrace.

The spongy floor of the new pool felt lovely underfoot and made the splash area very safe for little ones, while the changing rooms were the cleanest I’ve ever encountered.

If you fancy heading out for the day, the lovely seaside village of Pakefield, near Lowestoft, is well worth a visit.

You can walk straight out of the caravan park on to the King Charles III England Coast Path.

Keep your eyes peeled for Salty Sauna, a mini wood-fired sauna that can be booked for public or private sessions.

The upmarket vibe high street has sculpture Credit: Supplied
The town has a rich maritime history Credit: Supplied

If you wander along the beach up to Lowestoft, you’ll come to the Jubilee Parade pavilion, which is on the cusp of completion.

The two-storey restaurant-and-cafe complex includes a lift connecting the upper esplanade to the lower promenade, making access easier.

It’s set next to the futuristic Eastern Edge beach huts, which can be hired for the day.

Another spot that comes highly recommended by locals is the overhauled East Point Pavilion, an ornate glass Victorian-inspired venue that overlooks the sea and hosts concerts and makers’ markets.

And new art gallery Messums East is just about to open at the site of the old Post Office.

If you’re looking for more thrills, head to the Pleasurewood Hills theme park which sits on the coast between Lowestoft and Great Yarmouth.

Brothers Freddy, Spencer and Davis Stokes took over the site at the end of last year and have already installed three new rides, with a spinning coaster on the cards for later this year.

The park has something for everyone.

Furry friends enjoy beach Credit: Supplied
The overhauled East Point Pavilion, an ornate glass Victorian-inspired venue that overlooks the sea and hosts concerts and makers’ markets Credit: Alamy

We stayed for most of the day and still didn’t make it round all the rides, despite there being next to no queues.

The chairlift that carries you from one side of the park to the other was a throwback to my childhood holidays, while my boys loved the adrenaline rides, including the 30 metre-high Riptide and huge, looping coaster, Wipeout.

As the easternmost point of England, Lowestoft celebrates welcoming the earliest sunrise to our shores, with its First Light beach festival in June.

Likewise, there is definitely a new dawn afoot for this coastal town.

GO: LOWESTOFT

STAYING THERE: Four nights’ self-catering at Park Holidays Pakefield is from £129 in total for a six-person Gold Caravan, for arrival on May 18.

See parkholidays.com.

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I stayed at the Victorian seaside town hotel with rooms overlooking the ocean

An image collage containing 3 images, Image 1 shows The Brudenell Hotel and other buildings along the Aldeburgh seafront in Suffolk, UK, Image 2 shows A living room in the Brudenell Hotel in Aldeburgh with a beige sofa, two teal armchairs, and a view of the sea, Image 3 shows Seating area at Brudenell Hotel with a fireplace, mirror, and two colorful chairs

IF you fancy a stay right by the beach but with a bit of style, you’ll want to head to Suffolk.

Here is everything you need to know about staying at Brudenell Hotel.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying in Brudenell Hotel in Aldeburgh Credit: supplied
The hotel is right on the beach, but is just as cosy inside Credit: Supplied

Where is the Brudenell Hotel?

The hotel is perched right on the beach and promenade of the sophisticated seaside town of Aldeburgh.

And the four-star boutique hotel – a local Victorian landmark – has had a makeover bringing it right into the 21st Century.

What are the rooms like?

The 44 rooms vary from standard double rooms overlooking the town through to superior deluxe seaview rooms with unparalleled views across the long pebble beach.

The beds are super comfortable and everywhere is decorated in soft, neutral tones with the occasional nautical and coastal reference here and there – like pieces of driftwood or porthole shaped windows.

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There is nothing more restorative and relaxing than sitting in your room watching, and listening, to the waves crash on the beach and seagulls crying overhead.

The illuminated seafoam washing up out of the darkness of the North Sea is a hypnotic experience.

Double rooms from £164 per night, including breakfast. See here.

What is there to eat and drink?

The hotel has a terrific seafood & grill restaurant with views over the beach and offers all-day dining with a two course lunch from £20.

There are plenty of other options in Aldeburgh from the best fish and chips imaginable to pizzas and even a terrific Indian, Sea Spice, at the nearby White Lion Hotel.

What else is there to do nearby?

You have to walk the length of the beach and take in the stunning Suffolk countryside flanking the nearby winding and sprawling River Alde.

But also check out the town centre with its myriad of shops, galleries and museums. Aldeburgh is a real gem of a coastal destination.

Is the hotel family friendly?

Some of the Superior rooms and Deluxe rooms can sleep two kids, and cots are available on request.

is it accessible?

There is lift access as well as two accessible rooms.

Blue bay parking is available.

There are family friendly rooms as well as accessible rooms Credit: Alamy

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