CATCHING fish has never been top of my holiday to-do list.
But from the moment my six-year-old son Alex spotted a boat offering fishing trips in the Cretan harbour of Panormos, he pleaded to go on one.
And when he offered to pay with his pocket money, I knew he was serious.
With three-hour excursions starting at 50 euros a head, I buckled under the pressure and am so glad I did.
Panormos is a village in the Rethymno area of the Greek island, 45 minutes from Heraklion Airport in the north and where Eva’s Fishing is based.
The owner, unsurprisingly called Eva, spent years fishing for a living before welcoming tourists.
After taking us through stunning caves, with crystal-clear water, she put bait on to our poles and insisted: “You will find it the most relaxing thing you ever do.”
She wasn’t wrong. And now, pardon the pun, I am hooked. We caught fish after fish and it was relaxing, but also exciting and fun.
Back on land, Eva has an agreement with a lovely restaurant, Agkyra, to grill her customers’ catch and they served ours with roasted vegetables and lemon butter.
Although Alex had seen her gut and descale the fish, my husband Chris and I watched in amazement as he tucked in enthusiastically — even picking his way through the bones and asking for more.
I opted for tzatziki and a Greek salad.
With wine, complimentary orange cake and a shot of raki, it cost less than 25 euros for all three of us.
The boat fun was the highlight of our holiday — but not the first exciting trip.
On our flight from Manchester, with Tui, Alex got to visit the cockpit — then the fancy ceiling lights of our airport taxi made us feel like we were in a limo.
Our hotel, The Royal Senses Resort & Spa, which is part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, was also pretty fancy — and not least its reception, with floor-to-ceiling gleaming glass doors and the smartest- looking staff you have ever seen.
By the way, those staff were also the kindest of teams, ensuring each guest felt like a VIP.
Like Yorgos, who ushered us into a golf buggy to whisk us to our room — and let Alex help with the driving.
Along the way, Yorgos pointed out the kids’ club, as well as the main pool, a waterslides zone, adult pool, gym, spa, bar and four restaurants.
There are 178 rooms, ranging from doubles to villas, and spread out up a hill so that each has a sea view.
A cable car-style glass lift travels up and down the hill, lest you have to work too hard.
We were upgraded to a room with, joy of joy, a private plunge pool.
Our room had a kingsize bed plus sofa-bed for Alex, plenty of storage, a coffee machine, free bottled water, fluffy white towels and locally made toiletries crafted from olive oil and mandarin.
But we didn’t get to relax in our room for long.
At 5am, Alex was up, trunks on, goggles ready and raring to go. And breakfast only added to his giddiness.
Although he tucked into fresh pineapple and watermelon, I struggled to divert him from the temptaion of fresh cookies, pancakes, cakes and waffles.
I loved the Cretan breakfast with rusks, fresh tomato, olive oil and feta cheese while Chris struggled to resist the free- flowing fizz.
The hotel isn’t bang on the beach but its sister, The Royal Blue, is and guests share facilities.
There is a free shuttle bus but we walked.
It took five minutes and there’s a supermarket en route.
Although the city of Rethymno, with an old Venetian harbour, is just 30 minutes and 25 euros away in a taxi, we loved the relaxed vibe in Panormos.
It is six minutes from the hotel by taxi, £7 each way.
Or the green and yellow Magic Train travels by road to and from the village several times a day. It’s £2.60 for kids over five and £4.35 for adults.
It felt like an easy funfair ride and Alex loved it.
Panormos has a sandy beach, church, bakery, supermarket, taxi office and a few tourist shops.
We bought olive oil from a man whose family have farmed locally for hundreds of years.
There are several restaurants, too.
Our No1 was the Locus Deli, on a cobbled pedestrian street where local musicians played Greek music and Alex ran around, danced and played with the local cats.
It served Greek food with a modern twist.
We had chicken with pistachios and a fava-bean dip with fresh basil oil.
Even the child pasta was made with chopped local tomatoes.
With drinks, our bill came to less than £50.
The hotel also offered great dining options.
The evening buffet had amazing variety, plus homemade pizzas that could have come from Italy.
Other treats included a restaurant with Michelin-starred chef — which welcomed kids and offered adult mains from £30 — as well as wine-tasting evenings.
Musicians played of an evening, and the hotel even invited loom weavers to demonstrate their art — we crammed a new bath mat into our suitcase, which was already bulging with pottery after a Tui trip to Margarites.
The mountain town stands on rich clay, and pottery has been made there since 3000BC, during the Minoan period.
But my best trip was to the hotel spa. It’s the largest on Crete, with therapeutic thalassotherapy seawater pool.
I celebrated my birthday on holiday so also had some pocket money.
And during an hour-long massage for £58, chiropractor Costos rid me of longstanding shoulder knots.
We spent our last night at Geropotamos Beach’s Old River taverna, 1km from the hotel.
As Alex played on the beach and the sun set, we had some very drinkable local wine and reminisced.
We agreed few places could beat Crete, for its warm hospitality, fab food, glorious beauty — and modes of transport.
GO: CRETE
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ bed and breakfast at the 5H Royal Senses Resort & Spa, part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, is from £859 per person including Tui flights from Stansted on May 17, 20kg of hold luggage and airport transfers.
To book your stay, go to tui.co.uk, visit your local Tui holiday store or download the app.
