TICK off a plethora of UNESCO stunners, feast on incredible street food and slurp the best coffee – all on this unforgettable tour, says writer Donna Smiley.
Hopping on to the back of the scooter, I slip my arms around the driver’s waist as we weave through the narrow streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter – a dizzying rush of colour, noise and scent.
I’ve only just arrived in Vietnam’s chaotic capital, so a Grab taxi, £1.40 for 40 minutes, turns out to be a great way to loop this kilometre-square maze of 36 streets and get my bearings.
Every corner is packed with vendors selling everything from fresh fruit and steaming bowls of pho, to clothes, silver and stacks of cooking utensils.
The air is thick with the scent of broth and grilled pork drifting out from hidden alleys.
Down each passageway lies another surprise — an ancient temple, a bustling market, a tiny coffee house or a tucked-away shop.
Initially, crossing the road feels like a death-defying act as hundreds of scooters stream past without stopping.
But soon enough, I’ve stopped flinching and I’m ready to begin my G Adventures X National Geographic 13-day tour, which will whisk me from the country’s north to its south.
First off, my nine fellow explorers and I delve into Vietnam’s past at Hoa Lo Prison – known to American prisoners of war as the Hanoi Hilton – a place that’s as fascinating as it is harrowing (Hoalo.vn).
Later, we visit the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, one of the nation’s most influential political figures, and learn more about his life at the Presidential Palace, a grand French-colonial building.
That afternoon, it’s time to leave city life behind for Mai Châu, a valley just over two hours’ coach drive away, and one that is framed by verdant hills and dotted with traditional houses raised on stilts belonging to the White Thai ethnic communities.
Our home for the next couple of nights is the lush, peaceful Mai Châu Hideaway Lake Resort (Maichauhideaway.com).
On one guided walk, we spot workers planting rice seedlings, water buffaloes grazing lazily, and children playing along the paths. It’s nothing short of idyllic.
It may be another long bus ride to get to UNESCO site Ha Long Bay – four hours to be precise – but an overnight cruise here on a traditional wooden junk boat is simply unmissable.
We stare in awe at the hundreds of towering limestone karsts, their rainforest-topped peaks rising dramatically from the emerald water, before bedding down in a cosy cabin.
The next morning, we take a small boat to explore Sung Sot Cave – it’s the bay’s largest, best-known cavern with vast, illuminated chambers, which we explore by foot.
We then set sail again to Thien Cung Cave, famous for its intricate, mythical-looking rock formations.
Once back in Hanoi, we fly to Vietnam’s former imperial capital, Hue, just over an hour away.
This UNESCO-listed city is where one of the Vietnam War’s most dramatic battles took place.
We tour Hue’s walled citadel, exploring its lavish palaces, serene gardens and courtyards, its shrines and colourful gates – some scarred by bullet holes from the fierce fighting – before entering the ruins of the Forbidden Purple City, once reserved for the imperial family.
Later, we stroll along the Perfume River to the magnificent tombs of Vietnam’s emperors close to the water.
That evening, craving one of the country’s most iconic street foods, bánh mì – a light, crispy baguette stuffed with meat, pickled veg, herbs and creamy spreads – I head to local favourite Bánh Mì Truong Tien O Tho on Tran Cao Vân for a pork roll. It’s utterly mouth-watering and costs just 25p!
Vietnam also has the best (and cheapest) coffee I’ve ever tasted.
As salt coffee is a Hue specialty, I seek out Cà Phê Muoi on Dang Thái Thân Street, to give the robust Vietnamese coffee made with condensed milk, £1, a try, and the lightly salted whipped cream delivers a delicious sweet-and-salty hit. I’m instantly addicted.
After an early-morning, four-hour drive, we arrive in Hoi An, another UNESCO spot.
The Old Town’s narrow streets decked in colourful silk lanterns that sway gently above the crowds are instantly enchanting, but as night falls, its riverfront is truly magical.
Bridges glow in vivid colours and hundreds of candle-lit lanterns drift along the Hoai River.
We hop on a boat to release a paper lotus lantern, a tradition symbolising peace and good fortune – as I light my lantern, I think of a loved one and watch the tiny flame float away.
Even surrounded by so many tourists doing the same, it is incredibly moving.
Our last stop is Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon and home to 14 million people.
Alongside iconic sites, such as the Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon and the ornate Central Post Office sit communist-era landmarks and futuristic skyscrapers, which light up at night and dominate District 1’s skyline.
The War Remnants Museum serves as a powerful reminder of the atrocities committed during the Vietnam War (Baotangchungtichchientranh.vn), as does Independence Palace – the site marking the end of the war (Dinhdoclap.gov.vn).
Come dusk, rooftop bars glow and I find myself back on a scooter for the Ho Chi Minh: Food Tasting & Sightseeing Tour, from £24 for four hours.
Zipping through the city, we venture into neighbourhoods I’d have struggled to find alone – stopping first for the delicate beef stew at Quán An Cô Liêng on Võ Van Tan Street, a humble spot in the Michelin Guide that’s packed with locals (Getyourguide.com).
From here, we cruise through the vibrant Ho Thi Ky flower market, filled with the scent of jasmine and marigolds, before stopping at a nearby food market to sample an array of delights, including Vietnamese pizza and chè chuoi – a warm, creamy dessert with bananas and rich coconut cream.
It’s safe to say this whole trip has certainly been one incredible ride.
FYI
The 13-day G Adventures X National Geographic Explore Vietnam tour costs from £1,949 (Gadventures.com).
Return UK flights to Vietnam cost from £686.