Fab Mag

A DREAMY cottage in the highlands is a perfect destination to escape for a retreat.

It can also be a base for an action-packed family adventure break – with dolphin spotting among the highlights. Janice Hopper reveals all…

With our feet strapped into boots atop skis with wheels, coach Logan advises us to glide just like him.

Our wobbly attempts at roller-skiing aren’t great, so we soon move on to cross-country skiing on the dry-slope matting instead, where my husband Eamon and our sons Samuel, 12, and Joseph, 11, and I do actually glide.

We’ve booked a family session at Huntly Nordic And Outdoor Centre, which ends with us all flinging ourselves, whooping and screaming, down a slope on rubber rings.

It’s a fun way to experience the Scottish hills. Three-hour activity sessions cost £18.15 per adult, £12.15 per child (Livelifeaberdeenshire.org.uk).

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ESTATE OF MIND

After all the exhilaration, it’s time to check into our two-bedroom cottage on the elegant Mayen Estate.

With a classy colour palette, the cosiest stove and a beautiful ”box bed” in the master, plus a fire pit and hot tub in the garden, Butlers Cottage is a gorgeous hideaway.

We task the boys with rolling out dough and sprinkling on the cheese and salami from our pre-ordered pizza kit, from £21, before popping it in the outdoor pizza oven as the sun starts to wane.

The next morning, we wake to the sound of Highland cows nearby, before taking a peaceful riverside stroll along the Deveron and exploring Mayen’s stunning two-acre Walled Gardens, open exclusively to holiday guests for £20 per cottage.

It’s August, so everything is in full bloom as we wander through walkways of lavender, white lilies and glorious glasshouses.

Huntly is also home to a cinema, castle, shortbread factory and swimming pool, but we head to scenic Greenmyres Lochan for Canadian canoeing and standup paddleboarding, £28 per person for an hour and a half.

Jumping in and swimming is a valid option, too, as my youngest discovers (Huntlydt.org/what-we-do/greenmyres).

After peeling off our wetsuits, we reward ourselves with a Sunday roast at The Bank Cafe & Restaurant.

Here, choose your carvery meat and three sides, such as sticky red cabbage and macaroni cheese, for just £15, or seven sides for £21 (Thebankrestauranthuntly.com).

Buttery orange biscuits from Dean’s Shortbread, £2.49 (Deans.co.uk) and Irn Bru ice cream, £3 a scoop, from long-standing Rizza’s wrap up our day nicely (Rizzas.co.uk).

While Butlers Cottage is set amid rolling hills, the golden sands of Banff Bay are only half an hour away.

After wandering along the shoreline, we warm up with hot chocolate, £4.50, and a dainty Victoria sponge tower, £3.40, at Annie’s Cakery (Facebook.com/anniescakery7).

Housed in the town’s former railway station, AKA The Platform, there’s a lovely homeware and fashion shop, too (Theplatform-macduff.co.uk).

Also close by is Portsoy, famous for its salmon. After learning more about the local catch at the free Salmon Bothy museum (Salmonbothy.org), we buy flavoursome smoked fillets, £4 each, from Messrs J Smith at the historic harbour to cook later, before hitting Spey Bay’s free Scottish Dolphin Centre, half an hour away (Dolphincentre.whales.org).

There are binoculars for trying to spot the bay’s resident 200 bottlenose dolphins and the chance to listen to recordings of their calls.

The local dolphins are considered the world’s “chubbiest”, thanks to their extra layers for keeping warm in the chilly waters.

We’re alright though, we have a hot tub to return to. . .

PADDLING kayaks through the serene 8,000-year-old bog, we’re about to enter the “second maze”, according to our guide Elina.

Locals call it this because the small islands of shrubs, moss and reeds we’re navigating are constantly shifting above the mineral-rich water, making the route through ever-changing.

If you want a moment to really pause, Latvia’s the place.

Over half of the country, which is a quarter of the UK’s size, is covered in forest, and with a population of fewer than 2 million, it’s not hard to find a stunning spot all to yourself – even in the height of summer.

We return to the shore to find Elina’s mother-in-law cooking up a feast on a portable stove.

Slices of ham and bread are served alongside a huge flask of coffee, helpings of traditional grey pea and bacon broth, and piles of fresh pancakes, both savoury potato and apple, which are demolished by my kids Poppy, seven, and Raffy, five.

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It’s a brunch made from simple ingredients, but it is utterly delicious, especially when devoured in the vivid green landscape of Kemeri National Park.

Kayaking tours cost from £21.50 per person (Boardsyou.lv).

Ravishing Riga

The starting point for our trip is the cobbled streets and colourful art nouveau buildings of Latvia’s capital.

Riga sits little more than half an hour from the white sandy beaches of the Baltic coast (with a sea warmer than Cornwall’s come summer, FYI) and an abundance of nature, like those ancient bogs.

We arrive during celebrations for the city’s 825th anniversary and to streets alive with brass bands and artistic performances.

Even at its busiest, though, Riga still feels gloriously uncrowded, despite striking architecture and sculptures at every turn – the black felines perched on the turrets of Cat House and the Bremmen Town Musicians Statue of four animals balancing upon each other (said to bring luck if you rub their noses) our favourites.

Hotel Grand Poet By Semarah, with its flamboyant interiors, lies opposite pretty Bastejkalna Park, just a short stroll from the beautifully kept Old Town.

Its spa – where kids are welcome throughout the day – is home to a swimming pool, whirlpool, steam room and two saunas, and we even spot TV chef Prue Leith at the breakfast buffet one morning.

Family rooms cost from £280 B&B (Grandpoet.semarahhotels.com).

Lots to lake

One of Riga’s most popular weekend spots, Mežaparks, is set on alluring Lake Kišezers, where pedalos, rowing boats and SUPs are for hire, and swimming from its sandy shore is a breeze.

Cabo, with its hammocks and swinging seats, is an idyllic spot for sipping a rhubarb spritz, £7.70, while the kids splash about, and we hire a four-seater pedal kart to whizz around the forest trails, £17 per hour (Cabo.lv).

It would be easy to while away a whole day shoreside, but with Riga Zoo also here, we soon find ourselves giggling at the swaggering chief gelada (similar to a baboon), then wide-eyed at the glow-in-the-dark scorpions in the tropical house.

A family ticket costs £35 (Rigazoo.lv).

Another morning well spent is at Marupe Wake Park – its inflatable water obstacle course is one of Europe’s largest, with slides, swings, zip wires and climbing challenges.

As we hop across a giant panda and unicorn, the kids’ confidence grows with each leap, before we all revive ourselves in the sauna overlooking the lake, chuckling about our most spectacular splash landings.

Sessions cost from £16 per person (Udensatrakcijuparks.lv).

Later, among vibrant Mediterranean-inspired wall murals, we find a meal worthy of any great city.

We’re at Italissimo, where the little ones tuck into proper lasagne, £4, and pasta in butter broth with parmesan, £3, glugging down home-made berry lemonades, £3.70, while I dig into sublime truffled burrata with parma ham and wine-poached pear, £13.50, and tiger prawn ravioli with asparagus and a creamy bisque sauce, £14.50.

Cocktails, such as the Malfy Sour – a limoncello and citrus gin blend, £9 – are also excellent.

We soon clock children disappearing downstairs and discover a pastel playroom with a giant ball pit and interactive games screen, much to the kids’ glee (Facebook.com/restaurant.italissimo).

Going medieval

Restaurant Rozengrals, meanwhile, is a celebration of Riga’s medieval roots.

One lunchtime, we descend the steep steps and follow torch-lit tunnels to an underground dining hall for a huge platter of oven-baked duck with cherry-onion jam on a bed of pulses, £25, and pastry parcels stuffed with spinach and cheese, £7.20.

Sea buckthorn with honey, £4, is quickly declared a hit by all and we finish off by sharing Countess Amelia’s Caprice – tiny iced cakes encased in filo pastry, made from another 15th-century recipe, £6 (Rozengrals.lv).

Nearby, we discover GunsnLasers, an entertainment arcade tucked away in Galerija Centrs shopping centre, where e-karting proves to be a blast for kids and we all tear around the interactive Pixels Room, trying to avoid stepping on the ever-moving red squares of a giant light-up grid.

Donning VR headsets for family challenges is also a lot of fun for everyone.

Three activities cost £24 per person (Gunsnlasers.lv).

Tree-rific times

Still, we’re here to explore Latvia’s stunning landscapes, and an hour’s drive from Riga is Gauja National Park, the home of Turaida Castle – a reconstructed medieval fortress in lush grounds dotted with sculptures.

The kids love spotting ancient weapons and climbing the main tower with its views of the Gauja river.

Later, after venison stew with figs, £17.50, at quaint Kungu Riga (Kungurija.lv), we check out adventure park Tarzans.

Here, alongside the thrills of high-rope obstacle courses, tubing and bungee trampolining, there are activities such as a downhill hamster wheel, giant catapult and a toboggan track that hurtles us through the trees.

Packages cost £26 per child, £30 per adult (Tarzans.lv).

It all makes for a cracking afternoon – just as Latvia makes for a cracking summer adventure.

AZERBAIJAN is nicknamed the Land of Fire and is a fascinating mix of Eastern and Western culture.

Antoinette Cumberbatch shares her account of discovering the country’s delicacies, hot weather, rich history, plus a party scene reminiscent of Miami.

Watching US rapper Busta Rhymes work the screaming crowd in the balmy 32ºC heat, I feel like I’m in Miami.

In fact, I’m actually dancing the night away beside the Caspian Sea at Azerbaijan’s lively Dream Fest, held each July.

It takes place 35 minutes’ drive from the enthralling capital, Baku, at Sea Breeze Resort on the golden coast, also home to a huge array of sports activities and buzzing beach clubs.

Fish Box serves up excellent sushi, from £13.50 a platter, and with my spacious one-bed pad at White Villas, I get a private garden. Villas sleeping two start from £110 a night (Seabreeze.az).

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Fire Starter

Hours earlier, I’d explored another side of Azerbaijan, which straddles Europe and Asia, discovering why it’s nicknamed the Land of Fire.

On the outskirts of Baku, the Ateshgah Fire Temple vividly brings this to life.

Here, history isn’t tucked behind glass – instead, fire flashes red-hot between ancient stones from an altar in the middle, and I duck through low doorways to learn how merchants stopped here while travelling along the Silk Road. Entry costs £6.50 (Ateshgahtemple.az).

Another eternal flame is Yanar Dagh, a hillside of natural gas where fire burns continuously at a scorching 1,000ºC.

I finish my fiery sightseeing with a visit to Baku’s Bar19 at Flame Towers, an imposing structure by day and a dazzling sight at night, serving up city views alongside Flame cocktails – a sweet mix of Bacardi, Passoã, amaretto and lime juice, £13 (Fairmont.com).

Come morning, I stroll along the city’s waterfront, Baku Boulevard, to take in more futuristic landmarks, such as Deniz Mall and indoor arena Crystal Hall, plus the world’s largest flying flag in State Flag Square.

Then I explore Icherisherer, the official name for the Old City and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000.

I wander the labyrinth of passageways, where cats sleep in doorways and locals sell goods including carpets and pillbox sheepskin hats, haggling to nab one of the latter for £12. In other corners, I find locals offering home-made Turkish delight and playing draughts.

A few minutes’ walk from Icherisherer and an array of designer shops, is Art Gallery Hotel, set in a grand Art Deco building with walls adorned with striking pieces.

Luxurious rooms feature quirky headboards, gold lamps and large showers, and stays start from £85 per night (Arthotelbaku.com).

Dumpling Day

Sitting among retro ornaments and mismatched furniture at restaurant Ryumochnaya By Beerbasha, I feast on delicious pasztet – a chicken pâté with jam – £2.20, and moreish chicken Kyiv, £5.65.

The most surprising but incredible dish is a sweet tomato salad with cherry sauce, £5.25 (@Ryumochnaya_beerbasha).

At the more traditional Novbahar, I fill up on dushbara – tiny dumplings in a savoury broth, £2.60 – gutab flatbread filled with pumpkin, £1.30, and succulent grilled beef saj, £17.50. The local pinot grigio pairs nicely, too (Novbahar.az).

As my trip draws to a close, I climb the 12th-century Maiden Tower – 28m high and one of Baku’s most recognisable landmarks – for the sea views.

Entry costs £6.50. But for vistas of the entire city, I find Highland Park unbeatable.

The funicular up to its beautiful gardens costs less than 50p and, as I soak up the panoramic view of Baku, it leaves me awestruck. Just like Azerbaijan itself.

STANDING on the deck with an Aperol spritz in hand and watching the beautiful Sicilian city of Messina fade into the distance, I feel like I am living the dream.

And indeed we pretty much have been since me, my husband Alistair and our 15-year-old twins Riley and Harris set off from the port of Barcelona on a seven-night Mediterranean cruise.

As first-time cruisers, from the moment we step on to NCL’s 2,100-room, 18-deck Norwegian Epic – which underwent a massive refurb last year – it is brilliant fun.

Having checked on to the ship, we head to deck 15, with its two pools and three waterslides, to wait for our luggage to be delivered to our balcony state cabins.

Here, we take a peek at our fellow passengers – an eclectic mix of young and old from America, Canada, the UK and everywhere in between – as we settle on sunloungers with drinks and enjoy the live music, while waiting to depart.

Leaving Barcelona, we pass another ship and everyone cheers and waves to our fellow cruisers.

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The party atmosphere makes for the most lovely holiday vibe.

All decked out

With so much to do on the ship, you could never be bored.

There are 16 restaurants, including brilliant inclusive eateries such as the buffet Garden Cafe and the waiter-serviced Manhattan Room and Spice restaurants, plus seven speciality options, which we can dine at as part of our free-at-sea package.

For our first night we opt for Shanghai’s Noodle Bar, which we talk about for days afterwards.

There, we tuck into starters including sushi and spare ribs before mains of black pepper beef with broccoli, melt-in-the-mouth snapper, chicken and prawn chow mein, and egg fried rice, all washed down with sake for me and Alistair.

Our cabins have super-comfy twin beds pulled together into doubles, a sofa, shower and toilet, as well as tonnes of storage space and a TV.

We barely feel the boat move as we fall into a deep sleep, waking the next day in Marseille, where we decide to spend our first full day exploring the ship’s decks from top to bottom, taking advantage of enjoying the attractions while most guests are on shore.

Riley and Harris are delighted to find a Starbucks, while I love the serene Mandara Spa with its 50 different treatments, and we all gasp at the huge gym.

There is also teenage club Entourage, as well as Epic Theatre, where evening shows take place.

We particularly enjoy Red, White & British – a show of covers from Brit artists through the decades.

Plus, there’s a video arcade centre and a huge casino, as well as countless bars.

Exploring done, we head to the pool to test the water slides, including the 200ft bowl slide.

Excursions – which start from £37 per person – can be booked via the NCL app pre-departure or on board, and save you having to find your own way around new destinations.

However, our second stop is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a pastel-coloured coastal town where the shingle beach is just a stroll from where we disembark the ship’s tender, making a beach day a no-brainer.

Afterwards, we hit the town’s cobbled backstreets and pretty shops, marvelling at the handmade jewellery in Jour De Plage and eclectic clothes in cute Le Shopping De Nat on Rue de l’Église.

The station, with regular trains to nearby Nice and Monaco, is a stone’s throw away though, and many of our fellow cruisers set off to explore those cities instead.

Pisa The Action

That evening, we try Cagney’s Steakhouse, where we feast on jumbo shrimp cocktail or lobster bisque, followed by ribeye and fillet steaks served with a choice of sides – we love the parmesan truffle fries.

For dessert, the seven-layer chocolate cake is divine.

Our first excursion of the week is the following day when we arrive at Italy’s Livorno and take a coach to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa in all its glory.

Close by, we happen upon amazing pizzeria Santa Maria, where an extra-large pepperoni pizza costs £16.50 and feeds Alistair, Harris and me, while Riley plumps for a focaccia sandwich with mozzarella, £7 (Ristorantesantamaria.com).

The day ends with a trip to the historic seaside town of Viarregio, where we cool off with a dip in the crystal-clear water.

Opting to go it alone in Messina – as the port is located right in the city – we pop into the stunning Messina Cathedral, home to the world’s biggest, most complex astronomical clock, which stands 60m tall inside its bell tower.

Feeling suitably cultured, we then grab a taxi to Capo Peloro, a beautiful beach on Sicily’s north-eastern tip, where the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet.

Just Our Vibe

Back on the ship, both teens decide to chill in their rooms, so Alistair and I grab the opportunity to head to Vibe Club, an oasis of adults-only calm on the 18th deck with four-poster sunbeds and a hot tub, where we sip cocktails as we say our goodbyes to Messina.

Dinner that night at the Teppanyaki is our stand-out meal of the week.

We feast like kings on miso soup and seaweed salad, and marvel as the chefs sing songs, catch eggs for the fried rice in their hats and cook up a storm.

My steak-and-prawn combo is delicious, as is the sake-based wasabi cocktail I wash it down with.

We finish the night at our favourite bar, Shaker’s Martini Bar, where I’ve developed a taste for the Dirty Martinis, and my whole gang love their nightly live music.

Our last full day cruising is spent on the stunning Amalfi Coast, where our excursion takes us past Mount Vesuvius and to the Phlegraean Peninsula, so we can snorkel above the Roman resort of Baia, with its marvellous mosaics that now lie submerged up to 13 metres below the sea, before relaxing on the golden sands.

It’s an Italian bank holiday, and at the nearby beach club dozens are drinking prosecco, eating whitebait cooked in a huge metal vat of oil and dancing to their hearts’ content.

This couldn’t be a more fitting end to our cruise – pulling up in the port of Civitavecchia, near Rome, the next morning, we’ve laughed, danced, eaten, drunk and experienced some of the most beautiful places in the world.