Fab Mag

STANDING on the deck with an Aperol spritz in hand and watching the beautiful Sicilian city of Messina fade into the distance, I feel like I am living the dream.

And indeed we pretty much have been since me, my husband Alistair and our 15-year-old twins Riley and Harris set off from the port of Barcelona on a seven-night Mediterranean cruise.

As first-time cruisers, from the moment we step on to NCL’s 2,100-room, 18-deck Norwegian Epic – which underwent a massive refurb last year – it is brilliant fun.

Having checked on to the ship, we head to deck 15, with its two pools and three waterslides, to wait for our luggage to be delivered to our balcony state cabins.

Here, we take a peek at our fellow passengers – an eclectic mix of young and old from America, Canada, the UK and everywhere in between – as we settle on sunloungers with drinks and enjoy the live music, while waiting to depart.

Leaving Barcelona, we pass another ship and everyone cheers and waves to our fellow cruisers.

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TEMPTED?

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The party atmosphere makes for the most lovely holiday vibe.

All decked out

With so much to do on the ship, you could never be bored.

There are 16 restaurants, including brilliant inclusive eateries such as the buffet Garden Cafe and the waiter-serviced Manhattan Room and Spice restaurants, plus seven speciality options, which we can dine at as part of our free-at-sea package.

For our first night we opt for Shanghai’s Noodle Bar, which we talk about for days afterwards.

There, we tuck into starters including sushi and spare ribs before mains of black pepper beef with broccoli, melt-in-the-mouth snapper, chicken and prawn chow mein, and egg fried rice, all washed down with sake for me and Alistair.

Our cabins have super-comfy twin beds pulled together into doubles, a sofa, shower and toilet, as well as tonnes of storage space and a TV.

We barely feel the boat move as we fall into a deep sleep, waking the next day in Marseille, where we decide to spend our first full day exploring the ship’s decks from top to bottom, taking advantage of enjoying the attractions while most guests are on shore.

Riley and Harris are delighted to find a Starbucks, while I love the serene Mandara Spa with its 50 different treatments, and we all gasp at the huge gym.

There is also teenage club Entourage, as well as Epic Theatre, where evening shows take place.

We particularly enjoy Red, White & British – a show of covers from Brit artists through the decades.

Plus, there’s a video arcade centre and a huge casino, as well as countless bars.

Exploring done, we head to the pool to test the water slides, including the 200ft bowl slide.

Excursions – which start from £37 per person – can be booked via the NCL app pre-departure or on board, and save you having to find your own way around new destinations.

However, our second stop is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a pastel-coloured coastal town where the shingle beach is just a stroll from where we disembark the ship’s tender, making a beach day a no-brainer.

Afterwards, we hit the town’s cobbled backstreets and pretty shops, marvelling at the handmade jewellery in Jour De Plage and eclectic clothes in cute Le Shopping De Nat on Rue de l’Église.

The station, with regular trains to nearby Nice and Monaco, is a stone’s throw away though, and many of our fellow cruisers set off to explore those cities instead.

Pisa The Action

That evening, we try Cagney’s Steakhouse, where we feast on jumbo shrimp cocktail or lobster bisque, followed by ribeye and fillet steaks served with a choice of sides – we love the parmesan truffle fries.

For dessert, the seven-layer chocolate cake is divine.

Our first excursion of the week is the following day when we arrive at Italy’s Livorno and take a coach to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa in all its glory.

Close by, we happen upon amazing pizzeria Santa Maria, where an extra-large pepperoni pizza costs £16.50 and feeds Alistair, Harris and me, while Riley plumps for a focaccia sandwich with mozzarella, £7 (Ristorantesantamaria.com).

The day ends with a trip to the historic seaside town of Viarregio, where we cool off with a dip in the crystal-clear water.

Opting to go it alone in Messina – as the port is located right in the city – we pop into the stunning Messina Cathedral, home to the world’s biggest, most complex astronomical clock, which stands 60m tall inside its bell tower.

Feeling suitably cultured, we then grab a taxi to Capo Peloro, a beautiful beach on Sicily’s north-eastern tip, where the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet.

Just Our Vibe

Back on the ship, both teens decide to chill in their rooms, so Alistair and I grab the opportunity to head to Vibe Club, an oasis of adults-only calm on the 18th deck with four-poster sunbeds and a hot tub, where we sip cocktails as we say our goodbyes to Messina.

Dinner that night at the Teppanyaki is our stand-out meal of the week.

We feast like kings on miso soup and seaweed salad, and marvel as the chefs sing songs, catch eggs for the fried rice in their hats and cook up a storm.

My steak-and-prawn combo is delicious, as is the sake-based wasabi cocktail I wash it down with.

We finish the night at our favourite bar, Shaker’s Martini Bar, where I’ve developed a taste for the Dirty Martinis, and my whole gang love their nightly live music.

Our last full day cruising is spent on the stunning Amalfi Coast, where our excursion takes us past Mount Vesuvius and to the Phlegraean Peninsula, so we can snorkel above the Roman resort of Baia, with its marvellous mosaics that now lie submerged up to 13 metres below the sea, before relaxing on the golden sands.

It’s an Italian bank holiday, and at the nearby beach club dozens are drinking prosecco, eating whitebait cooked in a huge metal vat of oil and dancing to their hearts’ content.

This couldn’t be a more fitting end to our cruise – pulling up in the port of Civitavecchia, near Rome, the next morning, we’ve laughed, danced, eaten, drunk and experienced some of the most beautiful places in the world.

AS I sit on the train from London Kings Cross to Skipton, my stomach lurches.

I am about to spend the weekend with 16 complete strangers and I’m nervous. In fact, I’m really nervous. The introvert in me wants to fake a stomach bug and slope off home.  

But as soon as I stumble out of my carriage to meet the first arrivals from Outdoor Adventure Girls, a community for women who love hiking, adventure and getting alfresco, my nerves calm as upbeat chatter fills the space.

And by the time dinner rolls around – a tasty veggie lasagne served with garlic bread, at our digs The Kettlewell Hostel – the women are already starting to feel like friends, which is lucky really considering I’m sharing a room with one of them (Thekettlewellhostel.co.uk). 

Hill Start 

The next morning, we don’t let the rain dampen our enthusiasm as we head off to quaint Malham village, 40 minutes’ drive away, to begin our guided 5-mile circular hike.

We’re led by a fully qualified hill leader, the knowledgeable Ginette, and as we walk, we get to know each other better – the youngest in the group is in her early 20s, the eldest in her 60s, and many are trying a walking weekend for the first time.  

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The hike, with its breathtaking vistas across the Yorkshire Dales National Park, takes us around four hours, snaking up past Malham Cove, a 70-metre high, gently curving cliff of white limestone made famous by Harry Potter And The Deathly Hallows: Part 1, and on to Gordale Scar, a magical hidden limestone gorge.

And for the hardy among us – I am the only taker – there is an opportunity to take a refreshing and invigorating dip in Janet’s Foss, an idyllic waterfall along the route (Yorkshiredales.org.uk). 

By early afternoon, we are all puffed out and head back to the hostel for a chilled paint-and-sip session where we tap into our inner artists to turn canvases into masterpieces.

I create a picture of my new kitten, Siggi, as a take-home present for my fiancé – with the help of a few glasses of prosecco.

Later, we round off the evening with a fun general knowledge quiz night and, for those who are game, a trip to the local pub The King’s Head just three minutes’ stroll away for a last glass of malbec (Kingsheadkettlewell.co.uk).  

The Grassington is greener 

The next morning, an early breakfast of yoghurt, fresh berries and toast with jam kicks things off, before we drive to the nearby market town of Grassington, home to bustling shops, cafes and a farmers market, to begin our second walk of the weekend: a 7km hike through rolling fields and past the picturesque River Wharfe.  

Handily, we finish up at The Fountaine Inn in Linton, where we tuck into a comforting roast of honey roast gammon with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, maple roast carrots and parsnips, seasonal greens and a hefty Yorkshire pudding, £18.95 (Fountaine innatlinton.co.uk). 

Some 48 hours and a bunch of new friends later, I’m a hiking-weekend convert and make a promise to push myself out of my comfort zone more often. After all, that’s where all the best adventures start, isn’t it? 

THE home of fiery Sichuan dishes and giant pandas, China’s Chengdu is an adventure you’ll never forget, says writer Qin Xie.

I’m watching a clumsy brawl between two sulky teens. They keep lunging at each other with gusto, but neither manages to land a single punch.

Instead, both end up rolling on the floor covered in leaves.

If these were human teenagers, I might not be laughing, but, thankfully, it’s a pair of juvenile pandas.

They can barely stand up without a wobble, but still seem totally serious about winning, so have been chasing each other around their huge open-air enclosure for the last 10 minutes, dodging behind trees and somersaulting down ramps.

Eventually, one gives up and runs off – but not before making a loud, protesting squeal that triggers a burst of laughter from the crowd.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

The scrappy pair are residents of Panda Base in Chengdu, a sprawling conservation park in south-west China that’s credited with bringing the bears back from the brink of extinction.

Of the 2,700 or so pandas alive today, around 80% live in Sichuan (the province of which Chengdu is the capital), and about 10% are at Panda Base, so there’s no better place to see them. Plus, tickets are a bargain £6.

I was born in Chengdu, so I’ve been coming to the park for years, but only learned recently that if you want to see the bears at their most active, you have to get there early – it’s why the park is open by 8am every day (Panda.org.cn).

Go Green

Still relatively unknown compared to the likes of Beijing and Shanghai, Chengdu is actually a mega-city, home to more than 21 million people.

But unlike other cities of its size, it doesn’t feel hectic, as there’s greenery everywhere.

In fact, Chengdu is currently building a 10,000-mile cycle network to connect its green spaces.

Several sections are already open, like the 62-mile Tianfu Greenway, which wraps around the city centre.

I borrow a dockless bike for 30p per hour to explore a stretch in the south, and as I cycle past fields and a lake dotted with egrets, I spot the New Century Global Center – the world’s largest building.

Day trips in the mountains are easy, too. I head for Mount Qingcheng, which is just half an hour on the fast train, with fares from £2 return.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the sacred mountains of Taoism, a philosophical religion that predates Buddhism in China, and it’s split into two visitor areas.

The front mountain is easier to get to, with paved paths leading up to several incense-filled temples where monks still live. Entry costs £9.

But I prefer the quieter back mountain – it’s wilder and more scenic, with several small waterfalls, and entry is £7 cheaper!

Both offer several hours of serious hiking, so booking a stay at a hot spring hotel to soak tired muscles is a smart move, and the Howard Johnson Conference Resort Chengdu is only a short walk from the train station.

Double rooms cost from £52 B&B (Howardjohnsonchengdu.cn).

Spice up your life

Chengdu is also known for its food. It’s one of UNESCO’s Cities of Gastronomy, and those addictively hot and numbing Sichuan dishes you find in Chinese restaurants around the world are all from here.

Pick a place where there’s a queue and you can’t go wrong, but I always make time for a hot pot, where you order a selection of meats and veggies to cook yourself in a pot of bubbling broth.

I’ve done everything from big buffets to solo dinners in cubby holes, but my go-to is HaiDiLao.

This chain is pricier – meals cost about £15 per person – but there are branches everywhere, and they put on live TikTok-style dance performances while you eat.

At bigger outposts, like the one on Chunxi Road, you can even get a free manicure during your meal (Haidilao.com).

For classic street food, I hit Zhong Shui Jiao (Zhong’s Dumplings) in People’s Park for its namesake garlicky pork dumplings, £1.50, the plain Long’s wontons, £1.40, and spicy dan dan noodles, £1.

Next door, the century-old He Ming Tea House is great for people-watching.

Green tea starts from £1.60, and you can stay all day and bring your own snacks.

All Night Long

One of my favourite things about Chengdu is that there’s so much to do after dark.

Most locals go for post-dinner strolls or take speakers to public squares to dance to C-pop.

Midnight snacks are routine, and there are even 24-hour spas, like FuFu Tang near Renmin North Road station.

Spa entry costs from £30 per person. It’s also an unbeatable time for shopping.

Most malls are open until 11pm and some, like the subterranean SKP Chengdu, even have huge light installations that are attractions in their own right (Skp-beijing.com).

Unlike the UK, there isn’t a big drinking culture. Beers tend to be a watery 2.5% ABV and tea houses easily outnumber bars.

The one main strip, Jiuyanqiao, has around 100 competing bars clustered along the Jinjiang River, each one trying to outdo the next with its club beats. But even here is pretty sedate.

By my 11pm bedtime, the music has already been turned down, although I can still spot the lasers and strobe lights from my hotel across the river – the luxe but surprisingly affordable Shangri-La.

That said, it only takes a wedding or banquet for locals to break out the baijiu, China’s grain-based national spirit.

And in Chengdu, you can try it at Shui Jing Fang’s distillery museum, where the £5 entry fee includes a tour plus a guided tasting of three throat-burning spirits, each delivering a fiery 52% ABV, meant to be sipped neat.

It’s fascinating to see distilling as it was done 600 years ago (Shuijingfang.com).

That’s the most incredible thing about this city: futuristic skyscrapers and boundary-pushing architecture surround you wherever you look, but you only need to turn a corner to spot fascinating cultural relics dating back centuries.

Two thousand years ago, people called Chengdu the land of abundance – it’s as true then as it is now.

SWIMMING through the pleasingly warm water, my bright-pink tow float streaming behind me and a family of ducks paddling in front of me, I glance up at the sky as two herons fly over in perfectly synchronised formation. This is my kind of wild swimming.

I’m taking a dip in the 11-acre lake at Watersedge, a wellness retreat in the countryside near Pershore, 25 minutes south-east of Worcester.

My swim session, £10.50, is really friendly and well-organised – with swimmers wearing ID wristbands, bright hats and tow floats, and three lifeguards on boards and canoes in the water with us as we swim one of the 750m, 300m and 150m loops.

Groups breaststroke and chat their way round, while others front-crawl impressively quickly, but there’s a sense of community among everyone.

Hut stuff

Later, I wander across to the Wild Spa, where there are three different temperatures of wood-fired sauna, plus two small hot tubs.

To cool down, there’s an ice cabin, cold-water bucket and, of course, the lake itself. One-hour sessions cost £18.

We’re staying in The Den, Watersedge’s largest lakeside lodge.

The light, airy space has three double bedrooms, two with French doors overlooking the water, two bathrooms, and an outside space with a hot tub, barbecue and fire pit.

Once the final swimmers have left for the evening, it’s a haven of calm, and is equipped with everything you need for a cosy night in – a large, squishy corner sofa, huge TV, a stack of board games and a wood-burner for cooler evenings.

The swish kitchen comes with a L’Or coffee machine, induction hob and cute banquette eating area.

But, as it’s a lovely evening, my partner Steve and I make the 20-minute walk into the village of Bishampton to Ounce at The Dolphin for its Thursday-night Chateau Club, which offers a 16oz fillet chateaubriand for just £20 a person.

Steve declares the perfectly cooked steak to be in the top three he’s ever eaten, and we wash it down with blackberry-rich malbec, £8.40 a glass (Ouncebar.co.uk).

What’s sup?

Come morning, there are plenty of farm shops close by, but we’ve booked a breakfast hamper, £50 for six people, full of refreshing juices, juicy sausages and bacon to save heading out.

After our fry-up, we try standup paddleboarding (SUP), £20 per person.

The lake is shallow around its edges, so getting back on the board if you fall off (which I do, with a huge splash!) is fairly straightforward.

Soon we’re paddling around like pros, though our arms definitely get a workout when the breeze picks up and we have to navigate our way back to the jetty.

Keen to stretch out our achy muscles, we join a packed Pilates class, £12.50, in the beautiful studio that juts out over the lake.

Instructor Alex puts us through our paces and we promise ourselves we’ll try the fun-looking bungee fitness class next time.

But for now, I’ve earned a treat – and that’s exactly what I get, thanks to wellness therapist Jen’s blissful 45-minute full-body, hot-stone massage, from £50.

Rested and restored, we gaze across the water one last time from our sunloungers on the lake’s small beach area.

Spotting one of the herons, we find ourselves wishing we too could make our home close to this special place.