IT’S 10pm on a Sunday and I’m dancing alongside 50 strangers, an Aperol spritz in one hand and a skewered olive in the other.
I’m at La Ciclatera Sotto Il Mare, a bar tucked into the medieval walls of Bari in southern Italy.
This historic port city is the capital of Puglia, sitting in the heel of Italy’s boot on the Adriatic coast.
And it’s that same coastline I’m now gazing at, swaying to Italian tunes the locals know every word to as they dig into shared pizza boxes.
It’s a moment that really captures the city’s vibe, and is just one of many reasons to see it for yourself.
This summer, easyJet started flying to Bari from Manchester, joining its existing routes from Gatwick and Bristol. With a flight time of just under three hours, it’s a fresh alternative to the usual long weekend in Barcelona or Lisbon.
Until now, Bari has largely been known to Brits as a stepping stone to the more famous corners of Puglia — but it deserves better..
Bari’s real charm lies in its old town, Bari Vecchia, where you can easily lose a whole day.
Its alleys twist between pale stone houses strung with washing lines, past tiny churches and crumbling shopfronts, before opening on to squares packed with restaurants, bars and trendy gelato spots.
Despite being on the coast, Bari isn’t brimming with beaches but there are still sunbathing spots — Pane e Pomodoro is a 30-minute stroll from the centre.
This small stretch of sand is easy to swim from and dotted with bars. It gets very busy at weekends though, so arrive early.
Those after a bit of culture should check out the Basilica di San Nicola, an 11th-century church built to house the remains of Saint Nicholas, the man who inspired Santa Claus.
A few streets away, there’s the 12th-century Castello Svevo, which has a museum and art exhibitions, as well as panoramic vistas from its ramparts.
But the biggest attraction in Bari is the food. It is the birthplace of orecchiette — the “little ears” pasta shape Puglia is famous for — and you’ll find it on most menus.
The best I had was at La Beuat, a modern seafood spot on a tiny square in the Carbonara district.
Every table was full of locals tucking into dishes such as grilled octopus and fiery spaghetti all’assassina — Bari’s signature pasta cooked in a scorching pan until the edges char.
Three courses for two with wine came to around €60 (£50), which is fairly standard for a good quality meal in the old town.
For more traditional vibes, La Cantina dello Zio is a family-run trattoria famous for its orecchiette with turnip tops.
Another favourite was Osteria del Borgo on Piazza Mercantile, one of the old town’s most atmospheric squares.
As I ended every evening with a stomach full of pasta, I was grateful for the short walk back to my hotel, the 4* Movenpick Bari.
Rooms are contemporary and comfortable and breakfast is served on the eighth floor, which has sweeping views of the city and harbour.
Bari is a great base for exploring the Puglia region and Ionian coast, where powder-white sands have earned it the nickname “the Maldives of Italy”.
Hire a car from around £30 per day to reach the more remote areas or let the train take the strain.
Polignano a Mare, the clifftop town famed for its beach carved into the cliffs, is fewer than 30 minutes away from Bari by rail.
Monopoli, with its whitewashed old town and string of turquoise coves, is also well worth an afternoon visit for a swim and plate of pasta by the harbour.
A little further afield is Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is renowned for its trulli (traditional cone-roofed stone huts).
That said, you don’t have to go far. Bari has more than enough charm, food and character to fill a long weekend — especially if you plan your days around what’s on the menu.
GO: BARI
GETTING THERE: easyJet runs direct flights from Manchester, Gatwick and Bristol to Bari from May to October, from £32.99 each way.
See easyjet.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Mövenpick Bari start from £117 per night.
See movenpick.accor.com.
