I’m standing at 3,330 metres on a tall metal platform with a heavy harness strapped to my back, gazing in awe at the snow-covered Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and the Dents du Midi ridge. It’s a gorgeous distraction while I wait to be clipped in and launched down the valley at 120 kilometres an hour. This is the Mont Fort zip line, the highest in the world. I sit with my legs dangling over the precipice, then with a stomach-churning clunk the mechanism releases and I speed through the air over tiny figures skiing below. It’s exhilarating and over too soon. I’m grinning ear to ear, my lungs full of high mountain air.
I’m in Verbier, one of Switzerland’s most famous ski resorts. With access to 410km of pristine piste, excellent alpine food and a legendary après-ski culture, what’s not to like? Well, for many, the price. Verbier has long been favoured by A-listers and royalty, with eye-watering prices to match. Happily, there is a way to enjoy the same slopes, with much less of a financial hit. Stay in the village of La Tzoumaz (pronounced La Tsoo-mah), where accommodation can be half the price of Verbier, and you’re one chairlift away from the entire Four Valleys ski area. And as I discover, this “back door” resort has plenty of its own charms too.
La Tzoumaz has a year-round population of little more than 300 and, despite the influx of skiers, retains a charming village feel. Its name comes from the word “tzoumer” in Valaisan dialect, meaning “the place where you rest”, and it’s a good fit. I’m staying at Le Papill’on, a boutique hotel run by Ana and Pico. The 12 cosy, wood-panelled bedrooms are above the restaurant, some with views of the mountains, and the welcome is warm and genuine. Breakfast is generous, with Ana’s pastel de nata alongside eggs, cheese and meats, plus yoghurt, granola, fruit and cakes. Perfect fuel for a day on the slopes. Ski hire and the gondola are just two minutes’ walk away.
While Verbier access is the bonus, there’s also wonderful skiing at La Tzoumaz. A combination of north- and south-facing slopes gives excellent snow coverage over miles of blue, red and black runs. There are four chairlifts, including the swish new “télémixte” lift (both gondolas and chairlifts), which opened its second phase last December, improving the connection between Verbier and La Tzoumaz. A permanent “funslope” has ramps, jumps and tunnels, some of which play music – definitely not just for kids. There are two top ski schools: I spend a day with instructors from Ecole Suisse de Ski and another with Tzoum’Evasion and find all the guides unfailingly positive and professional. A beginner in our group progresses from grappling with bindings to snowplough turns in two days. The dedicated “Babylift” area is ideal for new skiers.
I’m here to ski, but it would be remiss to skip the other activities on offer. While the zip line was a definite highlight, I also try La Tzoumaz’s popular luge attraction. At 10km, it’s one of Europe’s longest sledging tracks, with a vertical descent of 711m. I crash into the sides (definitely wear a helmet), career off the edge into a snowdrift, and take a wrong turn requiring a long walk back, pulling my sledge. Speed demons will love it: I’m glad I tried it (but also, never again).
Ice-skating in La Tzoumaz is more my style, and the free ice rink makes this an easy evening activity. In peak season there’s a bar beside the rink, and you can rent skates from the sports shop over the road. We have a go at eisstock, a game similar to boules but played on ice. Best attempted with a mulled wine to warm the hands. At the base of the ski station there’s a little swimming pool, free to use with your lift pass. At Riddes, the village at the bottom of the slopes, I pop in to the Maye winery to taste some Swiss wines.
Food on the mountains is hearty skiing fuel. L’Inkontro is a smart new restaurant on Les Attelas slope, with incredible views over the valley from its large, sunny terrace. It merges Valaisan cuisine with Italian classics; the baked tortellini gratin powers my afternoon nicely. Chez Simon is a cosy alpine hut, easy to spend a few hours in. Croûtes are popular here, an alpine version of cheese on toast that’s so generous it’s served in a bowl to catch all the melted cheese. For serious mountain hunger, the croûte royale has added ham, egg and pickles. Stop for coffee at Croix-de-Cœur to drink in panoramic views over the Rhône valley, La Tzoumaz and Verbier.
Although it’s an easy ski between Verbier and La Tzoumaz, by road it’s a little more challenging. Currently you have to go down the mountain to Riddes and back up, and the buses don’t run all night, so it’s better to enjoy après-ski back in La Tzoumaz to avoid risking an expensive taxi. Evenings in La Tzoumaz are more relaxed than Verbier, but a lot of fun. For après-ski, Bar Des Etablons towards the end of the slopes is a lively and unpretentious meeting point with upbeat tunes. The sledging route ends here, and the free ski bus picks up outside.
Down in the village, near the ski lifts, Le Central bar is the best spot to wind down, with comfy leather sofas and beautiful big windows overlooking the valley. It opened last December, run by pro-snowboarder Xavier de Le Rue and friends. There are pizzas to share, local beers and a good wine list. For restaurants head to Le Papill’on for garlic snails or raclette, L’Auberge La Tzoumaz for fondue or local fish, and at L’Trappeur the house speciality, la potence de bœuf – beef served “on the gallows”, skewered on a metal structure then flame-grilled at the table. A well-stocked supermarket makes self-catering easy too.
While skiing in Switzerland may never be cheap, La Tzoumaz makes its most famous ski area feel far more attainable. With affordable accommodation, seamless access to the Four Valleys, and a friendly village atmosphere, it’s proof you don’t need to stay in the spotlight to enjoy the very best of the Alps.
The trip was provided by Verbier 4Vallées. Travel to Riddes by train from Geneva (with a change in Martigny) then catch a bus to La Tzoumaz. Hôtel Le Papill’on has rooms from 97 Swiss francs (£89) B&B a person, based on two sharing. Adult ski hire at T-Shop starts at £167 for six days. An adult one-day ski pass for the Verbier 4Vallées sector is around £85, adult six-day pass £380. More information at verbier.ch