IF YOU told me there was a place that had the streets of Paris but in England, I wouldn’t believe you.
But there is, and after years of living in London, New York and Los Angeles, I decided to move back to the storied cosmopolis that is Canterbury.
Canterbury has just been named the best small city in the UK by The Telegraph, and it isn’t hard to see why.
With a wealth of glorious green spaces, museums, ‘traditional meets trendy’ pubs, inviting restaurants and unique shops, the UNESCO World Heritage Site city in The Garden of England leaves me with a grateful heart.
I first fell in love with its cobbled, meandering streets and willowy riverbank walks as a student at the university here in the 1990s, where I met my husband.
When we finally decided it was time to bring our family home to the UK after two decades living in the US, there was only one place on our list.
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And three years after our return, I still get a buzz walking past the hodgepodge of medieval taverns and churches immortalised in the novels of one of the city’s biggest fans, Charles Dickens.
Here’s my insider guide to get the best out of this glorious city, whether you’re coming for the day or a week.
Canterbury technically invented tourism when it started making the most of the martyrdom of Saint Thomas Becket, who was murdered in the cathedral in 1170, encouraging people to travel to the site for miracles and blessings, and stay for the fine ale and feasts.
Today, the UK’s oldest cathedral and the Mother Church of the worldwide Anglican community, is still a beautiful place to spend a peaceful few hours.
You can admire the breathtaking stained-glass windows, gawp at the tombs of The Black Prince and Henry IV, or explore the wildflower gardens that surround the Gothic cloisters.
And with the first female archbishop in the cathedral’s 1400-year history being enthroned this month, there’s never been a more meaningful time to visit.
Tickets start from £18 per person and include exhibitions, mini talks and activity trails.
Under 18s can go free when accompanied by one paying adult (max two children per adult).
Social media had recently been alive with comparisons between Canterbury and Paris, thanks to both cities’ abundance of pavement cafes and tree-lined streets.
The cities are only being 177 miles apart and my car even picks up French radio stations.
“For me, Canterbury feels like a tiny English version of a Paris arrondissement… a storybook full of historic wonders,” agreed my friend Marie, a Parisian who has called Canterbury home for the last five years.
“I fell in love with its quirky tea rooms, independent boutiques, traditional
pubs and cathedral bells.
“Plus, this place has really friendly locals, who are way more welcoming and laid-back than the people you will find in most French cities!”
For the best of France right here in England, wander The King’s Mile and pop to local gourmands for sweet treats, including Madame Oiseau Chocolatiers for handmade truffles.
Or head into Café Turquoise for delicately fragrant macaroons, and there’s A. T. Patisserie as well, which has inventive eclairs that make your mouth scream hallelujah.
Our shopping definitely compares in originality to the greatest global metropolises.
From the rare gems waiting to be discovered in the infamously wonky and haunted Crooked House Bookshop (where every penny made goes to support a local charity, Catching Lives), to the made-and-glazed-onsite teapots designed by a husband-and-wife team in Canterbury Pottery.
Another spot worth exploring is The Goods Shed – an indoor farmer’s market which boasts farm-fresh soups and stews.
Thanks to Canterbury having the UK’s biggest student-to-resident ratio, the vintage shops are abundant and full of quirky finds.
Check out the Cathedral Quarter’s Superstore, Retro Remix and Karma too.
You’ll leave with a head full of history and a bag full of pre-loved treasures for much less than you’d pay in a bigger city.
Spring is the perfect time to visit, thanks to its plethora of free parks and gardens.
Toddler’s Cove is an action-packed mecca for the under-eight-year-olds, which is just along from Westgate Gardens, with its award-winning flower displays and views of 12th-century towers – the oldest surviving gateway in the country.
Inside the towers is now a museum, escape room and a kid-friendly restaurant called The Pound (don’t miss the spicy chicken
sandwich).
Entrance to the old gaol (jail) museum is free with every meal.
After people-watching on the patio, walk past the controversial new statue of a drowning Ophelia (Shakespeare was inspired to write her character after being transfixed with a similar local scandal).
It is next to The Guildhall – where a young Mozart performed – which houses a great coffee shop.
You can also jump onboard a chauffeured punt for a dreamy historic tour
along the River Stour.
Back on dry land, head to local boy Orlando Bloom’s favourite restaurant, Café des Amies, which serves the best Tex-Mex I’ve ever tasted (and I lived in Austin for seven years).
If you’re up for more action, rent your own paddleboard or kayak from Canoe Wild for a sunset paddle along the river to gaze upon the resident beavers (from £40 per person).
The brand-new Canterbury Tales Experience is a state-of-the-art interactive, immersive journey through the stories of Geoffrey Chaucer – with holograms and actors, sounds and smells of the 13th century.
The experience ends up in a pub too, where you can meet the Father of English Literature himself.
A family ticket for two adults, three kids costs £60.
Other cultural must-dos include the Roman Museum, which gives a family
friendly insight into life in Roman Britain, built around the remains of an original Roman
Another option is Town House, which is complete with stunning mosaics (Adults, £11; children £5.50) and the free Beaney House of Art & Knowledge, which hosts workshops, art shows and exhibitions for all ages throughout the year.
It is also the home of a few of Canterbury’s most beloved fictional characters, including Rupert the Bear and Bagpuss.
For more cities to explore in the UK, here’s the UK’s smallest city with a pretty high street and 26 nearby beaches.
Plus, our expert picks for UK staycation trips to banish post-summer blues – including free hidden gems for kids & £1.50 meals.
