Explore Falmouth and Babbacombe Bay with stunning castles, seaside charm and luxurious spas for the perfect getaway

CRAFT, castles and one cracking spa make Falmouth well worth the road trip, while you’ll also find a chic seaside stay in Babbacombe Bay

Here Catherine Bennion-Pedley explores what’s on offer for travellers heading West.

Apparently, the seal often spotted frolicking in the ocean mere metres from the golden sands of Gyllyngvase (Gylly) beach is named Henry.

And he’s grumpy. Which is odd, because Falmouth is making me feel anything but – even with two kids in tow at the end of a hectic half-term. 

Henry is kind enough to show his face as we explore Gylly’s rockpools for scuttling crabs, and the short stroll along the South West Coast Path to Swanpool beach cafe for ice creams studded with giant caramel buttons, £4.40, also garners mega-watt smiles from Poppy, six, and Raffy, four (Swanpoolbeach.co.uk/cafe).

Later, we drop down to Pendennis Point, where we watch in awe at the windsurfers riding the waves. 

As the clouds roll in, we hit the buzzy Beach House set atop the rocks.

PARK UP

I tried Parkdean’s new all-inclusive deal – great for hungry teens but with a catch

HOL YES

40 of us take over a £9.50 Holiday park each year – it’s my kids favourite vacation

Old Fashioneds laced with maple syrup, £14, paired with scallop and bacon ciabatta sarnies, £14 – plus cheesy pasta for the kids, £9 – while quizzing each other with the Trivial Pursuit cards on tables, makes for a winning way to shelter from the brewing storm (Beachhousefalmouth.com). 

Happy potter 

The next morning, we head to Starglazers, a gorgeous pottery cafe with an array of ceramics to paint and the coolest display of wall plates.

An hour and a half later, we’re all chuffed with the mugs we’ve transformed, from £8 a piece (Starglazers.co.uk).

Handily, Starglazers sits on the high street, which is packed with indie boutiques.

Many sell local art and crafts, such as Inspire Makers with its pretty prints, ceramics and jewellery (Inspiremakers.com), while Kitty Gubbins Vintage is brimming with treasures.

Nearby is Falmouth Art Gallery, host to an incredible paper art exhibition when we visit, and entry is free (Falmouthtown council.co.uk/falmouthartgallery). 

Plus cappuccinos at Dark Pony Coffee (Darkponycoffee.com) and croissant-flavoured chocolate from Chocolarder both prove real treats (Chocolarder.com).  

Another hit is Pendennis Castle, with its Tudor Keep, weaponry and war tunnels used in WW2.

Storytelling and crafts here entertain the kids nicely, too. Entry costs £13 for adults, £8 for over-fives (English-heritage.org.uk).

Later, we drop down to Pendennis Point, where we watch in awe at the windsurfers riding the waves. 

Tropic-cool escape 

But our favourite thing about Falmouth? St Michael’s Resort, with its tropical gardens and sumptuous spa lodges, complete with outdoor copper baths.

You get unlimited spa access as a lodge guest and the hydro-thermal circuit proves addictive.

The Cornish salt steam room works miracles on my cold, and watching the sunset from the outdoor barrel sauna is bliss.

Meanwhile, the kids are equally happy splashing about at the health club.

Family stays cost from £213 B&B (Stmichaelsresort.com). 

At the resort’s eatery, Brasserie On The Bay, the mussels with crispy pancetta and local cider, £14, and crab linguine with chilli, garlic and lemon, £30, are divine, while local fish and chips, £10, score top marks from the kids.

The bar staff are skilled mixologists, too, and the gin-based Fig Leaf Mizuwari and tequila-based Gochujang Paloma, both £14, are top-notch.

Meanwhile, Nourish serves up pizzas and mouth-watering small plates, including charred sweetcorn ribs with hot honey, £8, alongside larger bites such as sticky barbecue pork belly brioche with fries and apple and fennel slaw, £17. 

I can’t summon up the courage for a sea swim, but I do brave my first spin class in over a decade, £16, at the health club.

Full of positive affirmations, spin instructor “LA Steve” has incredible energy and an amazing soundtrack, and I leave feeling more motivated than I have in years.

It may be a long drive home, but it’s so worth it.  

Devon Sent 

You’ll find a chic seaside stay in Babbacombe Bay, too. . .  

If you were to picture the perfect inn for fishermen in years gone by, Cary Arms would be it.

Perched above the shingle beaches of Babbacombe Bay, near Torquay, it’s worth tackling the steep lane just for the sublime crispy truffled chicken skin with tarragon mayo, £5. 

It’s also home to a dinky spa, with a steam room, hydrotherapy pool and sauna, plus therapist Erin’s skin-reviving All About The Glow facial, £95 for 60 minutes.  

Apparently, Queen Victoria adored this part of England – and I can see why.

Better still, Cary Arms & Spa offers holiday lets, including Foxes Walk cottage, which has stunning sea views, boutique-style bedrooms and a hot tub.

Table football and two en-suite bedrooms which have their own entrance – it sleeps nine in total – make it great for two families.

And ordering fish pie bursting with the local catch, £10 per person, proves a wise choice. 

At nearby Kents Cavern, the UK’s oldest caves, we’re enraptured by ice-age tales and marvel at a huge bear tooth.

I can’t resist nabbing the cave-aged cheddar, £7, either. Entry costs £16.95 for adults, £13.95 for over-threes (Kents-cavern.co.uk). 

On another morning, we set off to spy the 2,000-plus animals that call leafy Paignton Zoo home.

The orangutans entertain us before we picnic overlooking the sea, just metres from the giraffes.

Entry costs from £23.75 per adult, £17.90 for over-threes (Paigntonzoo.org.uk). 

Back in Torquay, eight flavours of scone make Angels Tea Rooms a must-visit (Angelsatbabbacombe.co.uk).

Later, we devour cheddar and leek soufflé and duck with ginger, orange and Cointreau sauce at The Waddling Duck at Hamilton’s, £30 for two courses (Duckandwine.co.uk). 

The following day, we wander through woodland to Oddicombe beach, with its vibrant red cliffs and red sand.

After sandcastle building and paddling, we hop on Babbacombe Cliff Railway, £8 per family, up to Babbacombe Model Village.

The attention to detail here is jaw-dropping and we take turns to set off a dragon breathing real fire.

Adult entry costs £21.75, over threes cost £17.75 (Model-village.co.uk).  

Apparently, Queen Victoria adored this part of England – and I can see why.

Stays at Foxes Walk cost from £43 per person per night (Caryarms.co.uk).