Switzerland’s largest city is often overlooked by tourists, but its Christmas markets offer unique food experiences including wasabi cheese and fondue served on a train
As Christmas approaches, many flock to Colmar in France for its enchanting half-timbered houses or Lapland in Scandinavia for guaranteed snow and Santa sightings. However, this year I decided to break away from the norm and kick-start the festive season with a hidden treasure.
From bracing dips in the river dressed as Father Christmas to sampling unfamiliar cuisine, this city offers a unique Christmas experience like no other.
This became evident as soon as I landed in Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city. Often overlooked due to its reputation as a financial hub rather than an Instagram hotspot, it’s frequently dismissed as merely a gateway to the country, a place to rush through on the way to the breathtaking alpine landscapes elsewhere. But that would be doing it a disservice.
Dig a little deeper, look past the clichés, and you’ll uncover one of Switzerland’s best-kept secrets – Zurich is just as vibrant at Christmas as any ski resort. The Weinachtsdorf Christmas market, situated in a city centre square near the lake shore, is a perfect example.
Switzerland may be famed for its world-beating cheese, but have you ever tried a variety that’s greener than your yuletide tree?
My palate was sent into raptures after tasting the wasabi-flavoured cheese at one particular stall, which caught the eye in a striking pistachio green hue. Alongside it sat “tricolore” cheese, spiced with paprika, chilli and carrot atop a goat cheese foundation, plus a black lemon version enhanced with charcoal (reminiscent of a Limoncello-infused Lindt chocolate bar, yet as dark as coals on a crackling festive hearth).
The range was so impressive that other typically “exotic” flavours, such as truffle, jalapeno and pesto, appeared almost commonplace by comparison.
The lively Christmas spirit was already in full flow. Salmon sizzled over open fires in preparation for lunch, fondue pots bubbled enthusiastically and vendors beamed warmly whilst seeking out customers.
The star attraction for those seeking refuge from the chill is a substantial fondue chalet, its interior wonderfully cheese-scented, leaving little doubt about the delectable fare on offer. Meanwhile, whilst everyone adores the classic Christmas favourites like mince pies and marzipan (and in Switzerland’s case, raclette and fondue), it’s equally simple to avoid predictability through an extensive selection of international food stalls, offering everything from Chinese dim sum to Mexican tortillas and Indian street food, each presenting their own distinctive festive twist.
The German bratwurst – a beloved sausage snack – is a must-try here, but I also came across a rather unexpected festive pudding that’s traditional in Switzerland: chestnut purée cheesecake. The artistic rendition is designed so that each portion resembles a snow-capped mountain peak.
After refilling my glass with cinnamon-infused gluhwein (mulled wine) followed by spiced apple punch, I wandered further through the market and quickly happened upon a delightful pick-and-mix stand advertising “old fashioned British fudges”. Flavours ranged from bubblegum to honey and pistachio, whilst neighbouring chocolate vendors left me utterly spoilt for choice with varieties including coffee, Irish cream, pink gin and cherry.
Whilst the market’s European-crafted presents carry hefty price tags, the food offerings are considerably more affordable, and sampling these culinary delights is an experience well worth having. Following a few hours meandering through the market, I headed to the locally celebrated Café Conditorei 1842, renowned for its legendary postcard-perfect interior, where I indulged in hot chocolate and cake.
Later, as dusk descended, I made my way towards the city’s celebrated shopping boulevard, the Bahnhofstrasse, joining the throngs of spectators gathered to witness the Christmas illuminations being switched on. Signalling the official start of the festive period, these lights are nicknamed Lucy, a moniker drawn from the Beatles’ classic ‘Lucy In The Sky With Diamonds’.
My scarf, adorned with twinkling stars against a midnight blue backdrop, mirrored the Lucy lights and shielded my ears from the biting wind when pulled over my head. While Audrey Hepburn may not have had to contend with freezing temperatures as she donned a headscarf in a vintage car along the European coast, my Swiss setting offered a festive touch with snowflakes….
After enjoying the city’s renowned Singing Christmas Tree, featuring Santa hat-clad choir members belting out tunes from Cher to the Backstreet Boys, it was time for supper. Zurich boasts an array of fantastic dining options – the festively decorated ceiling of Coco Grill and Bar deserves a special nod – but that evening, there was no doubt about my destination: the famed Fondue Express Train at Polerzauber.
Zurich’s globally celebrated fondue is displayed to its full glory on this charming little train, perched high above the Christmas markets at Zurich Central Station. From my elevated vantage point, I watched shoppers splurge at an impressive 120 stalls, all under the watchful gaze of a towering tree, the undeniable centrepiece of the station hall.
Dunking my bread and potatoes into the steaming pot, it became instantly clear why Switzerland boasts such a stellar reputation for world-class cheese – and you can elevate the experience further by incorporating additions such as “a pinch of blue cheese from the [local] dairy”, white Alba truffles, mountain herbs and even champagne. Vegans needn’t feel left out either, as a dairy-free alternative of this iconic dish is available.
One traditionally Swiss – though entirely optional – method of finishing the meal involves requesting a raw egg to be cracked into what remains of the cheese, creating a flavour combination that Polerzauber promises will deliver “probably the best scrambled eggs ever”. It’s undoubtedly unforgettable – and just to make certain it stays with you, the restaurant also stocks its own branded Christmas jumpers, which naturally all the staff sport whilst on duty.
Had I been blessed with additional time, I would have expanded my Christmas market tour to encompass the one situated on Zurich’s own mountain, the Uetliberg. It showcases handcrafted and locally sourced products, whilst on misty days, there’s the possibility of finding yourself enveloped by fluffy white clouds at eye level thanks to the elevation.
Conversely, should the skies be clear, you can drink in a panoramic view stretching to the distant Alps – meaning regardless of conditions, it appears you simply cannot go wrong. Finally, the locals of Zurich have a rather unconventional way to ring in the festive season – an icy dip in the nearby river.
This annual tradition takes place during the first week of December, and even brave tourists can join in if they complete the necessary paperwork in advance.
Despite temperatures potentially dropping to a chilly minus 5C, around 300 festive swimmers don their swimsuits and signature Santa hats each year for the so-called Santa Swim (or Samichlausschwimmen in German). It might be a challenge for the fearless, but it’s hard not to get swept up in the Christmas spirit in a city so committed to the cause.
Some locals boast about the cleanliness of their river, claiming it’s so pure there’s no food for fish, while others highlight the much-touted health benefits of ice bathing. Upon leaving, I was left with no doubt that Zurich’s quirky traditions and distinctive flavours create a unique Christmas experience that simply can’t be found elsewhere.
Book the holiday
Swiss International Airlines (SWISS) provides one-way flights to Zurich from various UK airports. The fare includes all taxes, fees and surcharges, one piece of checked luggage up to 23kg and one piece of hand luggage. Book at swiss.com.
Room rates at Hotel Seidenhof start from 320 CHF (£300) per night, including breakfast, based on two adults sharing a double room. Discover more and book at sorellhotels.com.
For further details on Zurich, head over to zuerich.com. You can also purchase the Zürich Card here, which offers unlimited 2nd class travel in Zurich, various lake cruises, free entry to popular museums, a 50% discount on selected public city tours, and a host of additional discounts and exclusive offers.