WE stroll along the soft sand, taking in the afternoon sun as the shallow waters wash over our feet.
Ahead of us, kids are tucking into ice creams, and along the harbour wall, a crowd is at the ready with crabbing lines, dangling them one by one into the sea.
Here in Weymouth, on Dorset’s south coast, you get traditional amusement in, well, spades.
It is the quintessential Victorian resort, although its popularity dates back further, to King George III, whose first of many visits was in 1789 after doctors recommended sea bathing for his health.
In those days, he would not have been able to enjoy the Pirate Ship or spinning Paratrooper now found on the sands.
Nor could he have sunk a cold beer from the many bars and restaurants along the esplanade.
He might, however, have been able to enjoy a donkey ride, a traditional seaside treat that’s still on offer here.
I was staying at The Ocean Guesthouse, just steps from the main beach — and its quirky nature (and owner) set it apart from the crowd.
Hotelier and former Londoner Maxine Gilroy has previously appeared on Channel 4’s reality B&B competition Four In A Bed where she was likened to TV characters Pat Butcher and Peggy Mitchell.
Her loud and infectious laugh backs that up and it most definitely adds to the cheer of the place.
Stepping into her guesthouse is like stepping back in time. Every wall, tabletop, windowsill and mantelpiece features antique objects, as varied as voodoo-esque dolls, telescopes and ship steering wheels.
Many of them have come down the generations from her grandparents’ vintage shops round the capital.
Our room had a ship theme, which was fitting considering it has a lovely bay window with harbour views.
Being in such a prime location means it’s easy to potter around the town, with plenty of cafes, restaurants and pubs on your doorstep.
For sheer portion size, a large cod and chips from Bennett’s fish and chip shop could probably do Mum, Dad and a couple of little’uns. It was pretty tasty too.
Or if you’re keen for a fancier version of this seaside staple, Catch At The Old Fish Market offers a fine dining experience with a tasting menu of fresh-caught local seafood.
For a proper good pint, the Old Rooms Inn sits just across the river from The Ocean Guesthouse and is reachable by Town Bridge, which opens up every so often for boats to pass. I’d recommend taking the novelty route and making the two-minute crossing by row boat.
For a more lengthy jaunt in the water, Weymouth And Portland Boat Trips offers hour-long adventures.
As the name suggests, we travelled from Weymouth quayside to Portland — which despite being an island, is connected to the mainland by Chesil beach.
Known for its quarries and white Portland limestone — which was used to build the likes of Buckingham Palace, St Paul’s Cathedral and the British Museum — Portland is a gorgeous place to spend the day with shallow coves for swimming and sunsets to die for.
Keep your eyes peeled for the harbour — you may recognise it as the location that hosted the sailing events at the London 2012 Olympics, and regular contests still take place there.
On our journey, we saw Team USA practising windsurfing in preparation for the 2026 iQFOiL World Championships, which took place this month.
If you prefer to stick to dry land, then Nothe Fort, a ten-minute walk from the guesthouse, is a must.
Built in the 1860s, the building is as fascinating as what’s inside.
Kids will love it too, even if they aren’t into history — there are ramparts and tunnels to explore, military outfits to try on and cannons fired from the parade ground.
Exhibitions run throughout the year and special events take place during October half-term, too, with daily “mouse hunts”, spooky bingo and pumpkin golf.
Even King George III would approve of that.