The Cornish seaside town that is BETTER in autumn with secluded beach coves and Victorian hotels
OUR Spotlight On column suggests what to do and see in the top holiday spots as well as some lesser known regions in the UK and further afield.
This week, we’re looking at Padstow, and, as someone who visits every year, this is THE time of year to visit.
In autumn, the heaving summer crowds have died down and you can actually enjoy the quaint harbour as it once was in its more peaceful days as a sleepy fishing town.
Famous TV chef Rick Stein moved here in his 20s, drawn to the waters from which he could pluck fresh seafood on a daily basis, and now owns four restaurants here.
Rick isn’t the only famous face to fall for Padstow, either – Fern Britton, Kate Hudson and even the royals have all openly spoken about their love for the Cornish region (I once spotted Dame Judi Dench shopping in Boots on the high street here).
Here are some of my other top tips.
MUST DO/SEE
The famous Camel Trail weaves through rural countryside for 18.3 miles, starting at the edge of Padstow leading all the way to Wenford Bridge on Bodmin Moor.
The most scenic stretch, in my opinion, is the 5.5 mile section between Wadebridge and Padstow which follows the Camel Estuary up to the coast.
Walk it, cycle it, run it – take your pick. Bikes can be rented from the Wadebridge end, where there is also a little cafe serving refreshments.
HIDDEN GEM
You’ll likely find a fair few tourist pottering around Padstow’s narrow streets, among the pastel-coloured houses and boutique shops and cafes, but very few make the two mile walk to Hawker’s Cove, a secluded beach with sweeping ocean views and quiet sands.
Make sure to swing by the Rest a While Tea Garden, a makeshift cafe overlooking the sands serving classic Cornish cream teas and home-baked goodies.
At this time of year, you may have the whole beach to yourself.
BEST VIEW
The gorgeous Harbour Hotel in Padstow offers glorious views of the bay from its perch, high on a hill.
Its restaurant and bar terrace is undoubtedly the best spot in summer, with seats positioned to both catch the sunshine and overlook the water.
Order yourself a grapefruit margarita made from El Jimador Tequila, Cointreau, hibiscus, pink grapefruit and lime juice with a pink Himalayan salt rim, and watch the sun set beyond the horizon, behind the town of Rock.
RATED RESTAURANT
Prawn on the Lawn has two venues within Padstow’s central harbour – one slightly larger than the other but both pack a punch.
Make sure to reserve a table in advance of your visit, especially during half terms and school holidays.
Menus of sharing style dishes showcase seafood caught fresh from local waters and prepared by top notch chefs. Porthilly oysters cost from £4.50 each, while larger plates like seared tuna, soy, mirin and chilli cost £15.50.
For coffee and a slice of one of the grandest homemade cakes you’ll ever eat, pop to Cherry Trees Coffee House, whose wondrous desserts, topped with swirls of buttercream, take pride of place behind a glass counter.
BEST BAR
For cocktails that will knock your socks off, head to Ruby’s Bar, part of the Rick Stein chain, which sits behind a rather unassuming door on Broad Street.
It serves up all the classics, but with unusual twists.
The Foraged Martini, for example, is made from Iichiko Shochu (a Japanese spirit), sweet and dry sakes, and locally-foraged gorse flowers with shiitake mushroom oil.
The Old Custom House, on the other hand, is an old-school boozer serving up foamy pints of local ales.
HOTEL PICK
The 4* Harbour Hotel may look a little weathered from the outside (as you’d expect for an old Victorian building sat so close to the sea), but the inside is tranquil and perfectly reflects its seaside location.
Rooms are decorated in cool blue tones accented by white shutters on the windows – many come with fabulous sea views.
Rooms cost from £135 per night. See harbourhotels.co.uk.
