HOT cross buns; sticky, sweet, delicious and a sign that Easter is on its way – but where did the original bun come from?
Ironically, the origins are in my stomping ground of St Albans, so I went to see where it all began – and you can still buy a classic bun now.
In trying times, nothing quite provides comfort like a freshly-baked bun.
That was certainly Brother Thomas Rocliffe’s thinking when he handed
out his humble creation to the poor and disgruntled townspeople of St.
Albans back in 1361, a couple of decades before the Peasant Revolt.
The 14th century monk had just invented a treat that would become a
symbol of Easter for hundreds of years to come: the hot cross bun.
Back then, it was known as the Alban bun.
The original recipe relied on a traditional bread dough, laced with exotic spices and dried fruit, which was then rolled into balls and scored with a cross symbol ahead of baking.
Today, the buns we see in supermarkets feature a piped cross, not
scored, and they are a little more sweet and cake-like in flavour,
relying primarily on cinnamon for spice.
If you’re keen to sample the traditional version, though, Brother
Thomas’ original recipe is still being baked today within the same
centuries-old walls of St Albans Cathedral, where it was first
concocted.
The ingredients are a secret, of course, but those heading down this
Easter may be lucky enough to uncover them with the help of one of the
cathedral’s expertly knowledgeable guides.
“How much did Rocliffe charge?” my guide asks me. “One a penny? Two a penny?”
The answer is still unknown – but just shy of a fiver seems more apt in these times, I tell him.
These buns weren’t just for Easter in Rocliffe’s era. In fact, in the
mid-1500s they became an emblem of protection and soared in
popularity.
Everyday folk would buy them year round and nail them to
their doors under the belief that it would stop their houses from
burning down.
Queen Elizabeth I was not amused by such superstitions, though, so
banned the sale of the hot cross bun (it’s colloquial name by this
point) on all dates except for Christmas, funerals and, of course,
Good Friday.
Traditions change over time and now most of the local bakeries in St
Albans sell the treat at Easter only, including the cathedral’s
Abbot’s Kitchen.
Head baker Graca whips up a whopping 120 of these buns a day at this
time of year and locals will order in batches – a sign that they’re
still adored in these parts.
Round, fluffy and fresh out of the oven, the original Alban Bun is definitely a massive step above the supermarket variations.
I love its breadlike flavour and whack of cardamom. The
fact that it’s not overly sweet means you can eat three in a row –
what a win.
After tucking into them, make sure to explore the rest of the cathedral.
Daily tours are thoroughly fascinating – and completely free, although
donations are heavily relied upon, so don’t forget to pop some cash in
the box on your way out.
If you’re looking for even more historic fun to sink your teeth into,
the city’s Verulamium Park is brimming with Roman history and the
remains of old, slightly battered walls can still be seen as you
wander among the greenery.
Make sure to detour for a stroll along the River Ver, too, one of few
remaining chalk rivers in the UK.
Then you can reward your efforts with a pint at one of the many cute and quirky pubs.
St Albans is reportedly home to more pubs per square mile than any other city in the UK, so it would be rude not to sample its tipples.
The Boot, in the city centre serves proper ales alongside its Mexican
themed food menu, meanwhile Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, at the foot of the
cathedral’s hill, claims to be one of the oldest boozers in the
country and has a lovely pub terrace.
I wonder if Brother Thomas ever sunk a few in here.
Here’s where you’ll find the best buns in St Albans…
St. Albans is not short of excellent bakeries and in the name of good
journalism I made sure to try them all.
Here’s two of my other picks.
Proto Artisan Bakery
Sticky on the outside, with a glossy glaze, and fluffy on the inside, these buns look more akin to the ones you see in the shops, but are ten times more flavourful.
Baked fresh everyday, they are crammed with a great amount and variety of dried fruit and soft and light in texture, it needs nothing more than a slab of butter.
Glaze Bakery
A minutes’ walk from the cathedral’s entrance, this bun
is as delicious as the above.
The cross is not piped, but made from laminated dough that puffs up in the oven. The shiny crust is sprinkled with sugar crystals. Owner Oli recommends toasting it and eating with Marmite.
BLOB: See enjoystalbans.com or visit @enjoystalbans on social media.
For more on Hertfordshire, this beautiful English village is home to one of Britain’s best pubs.
And here are our favourite British beer gardens with some in cosy villages, and Cotswolds pubs.