THE birch trees either side of us become a blur as we speed through the snowy woodland, our sled being masterfully pulled by a pack of energetic dogs.
Looking up, I spot a sheet of vibrant green and fiery pink spread across the night sky.
It had always been a dream of mine to experience the elusive Northern Lights.
Now I was getting the chance to do it in the best way possible: a Norwegian Fjords voyage.
February is one of the best times of year to see the natural phenomenon in Norway, although you stand a pretty good chance at any point from late September to April.
My partner Gemma and I were travelling with Ambassador Cruise Line, which has affordable sailings from the UK, removing the need for a flight.
Our home for the next couple of weeks, Ambition, was a modern 1,200-passenger vessel that oozes glamour with plenty of polished wood and brass, and a cosy, relaxed ambience.
Cabins are luxurious, spotless and well-appointed — refreshed each day by doting “butlers”.
Everyone on board has a complimentary dining place in either the light and airy Buckingham restaurant or smaller, more intimate Holyrood, both of which serve high-quality food with plenty of options for vegetarians like Gemma.
There is also the buffet-style Borough Market which serves delicious meals from early to late.
Plus there is speciality dining such as the fabulous Saffron, an Indian restaurant which left Gemma in raptures about the veggie selection platter.
The highlight for me, however, was the Chef’s Table experience where we were treated to a fascinating tour of the ship’s galleys before executive chef Cleo Murzello showcased his culinary skills in nine sensational courses paired with wines.
Just be prepared that you won’t feel able to move from your seat afterwards!
When we weren’t exploring the fjords, on board entertainment kept us busy every day with games — we couldn’t keep away from the high-prize £3-a-play bingo — West-End worthy theatre performances and fascinating talks including how to photograph the Aurora Borealis.
With seven bars, six restaurants, a shopping galleria, library, games room and incredible spa there’s always something going on.
Then there’s the shore experiences with everything from snowshoeing and rib-boat riding to ice bars visits and cable car trips available.
On our first morning in Norway, we woke to see low rocky islands sliding past as we got our first glimpse of the fjords — the long sea inlets between majestic mountains.
Alesund is one of Norway’s most beautiful towns. The best way to see it is to climb the 418 steps to its hillside view point and reward yourself with a svele pancake from the cafe at the top.
Then wander around the shops filled with the Norwegian obsession of trolls and slippers, then the gorgeous harbour.
Next morning, after crossing into the Arctic Circle, Ambition glided between snow-covered peaks up Straumsfjorden to the city of Tromso.
Here we took the mountain cable car to the top of snow-clad Storsteinen, 1,382ft above sea level.
The views were spectacular — as was the high-altitude beer at the summit cafe.
But it wasn’t until our evening dog-sledding adventure that we finally got what we came for.
As darkness fell the night sky began to bubble and split.
From behind the dark mass of mountains, a collection of dancing green fingers reached upward and outwards, curling and filling the sky.
It couldn’t have been a more perfect setting as the panting huskies ploughed through the snow.
More excitement was to come, though.
Cruise stops include the frozen port of Alta, in the Finnmark area of northern Norway, home of the Sami people.
Those keen to learn about the culture can book tours which include a visit to a village and reindeer sledding.
Instead, we headed to Alta Museum to take in some of the 6,000 amazing rock paintings dating from 4,200BC, discovered in 1973.
If ice snow experiences are more your thing, try the port of Narvik, home to a breathtaking Arctic train ride and polar wildlife park.
Or there’s the city of Bergen, where you can pick up souvenirs from local shops that line the cobbled streets.
I may have returned home with a pair of troll slippers but it’s the memory of Northern Lights that I’ll be cherishing for years to come.
Even the pictures on my phone don’t do it justice.
GO: NORTHERN LIGHTS CRUISE
SAILING THERE: A 17-night Norway’s Land Of The Northern Lights cruise on board Ambition is from £1,709pp, departing Bristol Royal Portbury on October 16, based on two sharing an inside cabin.
Ports of call include Andalsnes, Alesund, Tromso, Alta, Hammerfest, Harstad, Leknes in Lofoten Islands, Narvik and Bodo.