Like many of you, I don’t need another good Italian cookbook. Yet I’ve found Amber Guinness’ “quanto basta” or “just enough” approach in her newest book “Winter in Tuscany: Cozy Recipes and the Quanto Basta Way “ (Thames & Hudson) immensely appealing — and useful when I’m looking for dinner ideas. A vegetarian take on the Tuscan beef stew peposo? She captures the original’s hearty flavors with chestnuts, mushrooms, red wine and lots of thyme. Despite her “House of Guinness” lineage, this Guinness, who grew up in Tuscany, has an easy, approachable style. Consider “emergency rosemary and garlic spaghetti,” a 10-minute preparation from Siena that is more in the vein of the un-recipe approach that her fellow Florence-based author Faith Willinger favors. Sometimes, in the “one’s own way is usually the best” philosophy she advocates, I’ll use Guinness’ recipes as good suggestions to tinker with — as I did the other night with her orecchiette with Brussels sprouts and pancetta. Other times, I’ll relax and just follow her conversational instructions for say, “Good Time” radicchio, Gorgonzola and walnut lasagne, which includes the line, “remove any sad outer leaves from the radicchio.”
