WHEN Corfe Castle was besieged during the English Civil War, little else surrounded it bar rolling countryside and a narrow river below.
Today the rocky ruins of the 11th century fortress, perched high on a hill, watch over a jumble of wonky brick buildings housing antique stores crammed with dainty ornaments and cafes selling cakes piled high with whipped cream.
With such a chocolate-box look to it, I’m not surprised that this teeny Dorset gem, just a 25-minute drive south of Poole, is so frequently-named the prettiest village in the UK.
Autumn is a spectacular time to visit Corfe Castle village. In the coming months, the ivy that clings to the thatched cottages will have turned a fiery shade of red and the beginnings of the wintry chill can be soothed with a pint in front of a roaring log burner at the local pub.
Aptly named after the old fortress itself, this village is one of the many highlights of a post-summer visit to this area.
I return to this neck of the woods every autumn, in part because of the unspoilt beaches, which look just as beautiful in blustery season as they do in pure sunshine, and also for the cliff-top hiking trails that give way to jaw-dropping views over the rolling ocean.
From the top of the South West Coast Path with nothing but ocean on the horizon, it can feel like you’re standing at the very edge of earth.
This time I am staying at a Dorset Hideaways property, the rather grand Grove Lodge in Osmington, close to Ringstead Bay.
Sleeping up to 11, this holiday home is completely geared up for large groups and families, with five contemporary country-style bedrooms.
As well as a spacious sitting room with a cosy fireplace, there’s a smart country kitchen, dining room, snug and a small annex, which comes with its own double bed and a mini kitchenette.
The standout feature of the property, however, has to be its cracking location, less than a 20-minute drive from family-friendly Weymouth beach and half an hour from Corfe Castle.
In summertime, Weymouth comes alive with holidaymakers chomping on candy floss, pushing pennies through the arcade’s slot machines and settling on the sands for a Punch and Judy puppet show.
But some may say it’s even better in autumn when beaches are empty and dogs almost outnumber humans, splashing about in the frothing waves (pooches are banned from the main section of the beach in summer months).
Staggering views
Those visiting without kids, on the other hand, should head to Lulworth Cove, just a 20-minute drive in the opposite direction from Grove Lodge, where the deep blue sea is framed by a horseshoe of pebbles.
The walk from here to the famous Durdle Door — named after a natural limestone arch protruding from the ocean — is a popular one, mainly because of the staggering views.
Just come prepared for a steep climb, and make sure you’re well-fuelled for it. In my opinion, there’s no better way to do that than with a top-notch Sunday roast.
One of the best portions of fish and chips you’ll ever eat will set you back £20, while a fresh crab brioche roll served with chips costs £16
Head to the nearby Weld Arms, where plates of pillowy Yorkshire puddings accompany slices of rare roast beef doused in meaty gravy. Or for a lighter bite, the Boat Shed Cafe, right on Lulworth Cove, dishes up fish finger sandwiches, jacket spuds and home-made soups, all for around a tenner.
If you’re after something really special, nothing beats The Anchor Inn in Seatown, which sits at the edge of a relatively isolated pebble beach, further west of Lulworth.
Fresh and local is the order of the day here and the fish-focused menu is one that keeps foodies coming back. I devoured a big bowl of bouillabaisse (French fish stew) which was packed with prawns the size of my fists and flaky salmon, served with a hunk of sourdough.
One of the best portions of fish and chips you’ll ever eat will set you back £20, while a fresh crab brioche roll served with chips costs £16.
And for dessert? Tea and cake is best consumed in Corfe Castle. The cafe serves generous wedges of raspberry cake and caramel shortbread coated in a thick layer of chocolate.
This is the place to pick up holiday souvenirs, too. Trinkets are aplenty in the little shops that line the main street, from home-made soaps to coffee table books, detailing the best UK surfing spots, many of which are in the surrounding areas.
Well . . . when in Rome.
GO: DORSET
STAYING THERE: A three-night self-catering break at Grove Lodge costs from around £122pp, based on 11 sharing. See dorsethideaways.co.uk.