Estel Farrell-Roig travelled to Romania with Intrepid to take on a section of the Transilvanica Trail, a 1,400 kilometer long route that crosses Romania diagonally from Putna to Drobeta Turnu Severin
Me with a couple of hosts from one of the guesthouses where we stopped for lunch(Image: ReachPlc)
It’s not every year you turn 32. It’s also not every year you celebrate it by hiking around Romania.
Transilvanica Trail was sold to me as Romania’s answer to the Camino de Santiago, a walking route that stretches across northern Spain, which is enjoying a huge surge in popularity.
In its totality, the Via Transilvanica, or “the road that unites”, is a 1,400 kilometer long route that crosses Romania diagonally from Putna to Drobeta Turnu Severin.
As fun as that sounds, my journey was a little shorter. Guided by Intrepid, I was taking on five days of the route, managing around 10km a day. That might not sound like a lot, the idea of that much hiking made me nervous.
I needn’t have been.
What unfolded was a trip like no other, which left me desperate to go back for more.
Day 1
My alarm went off at 4.30am, ending a night at a Stansted Airport hotel. While this certainly felt brutal, the prospect of being on a flight without a three-year-old still seemed like a luxury to me. Compared to my usual journeys filled with Paw Patrol, drawing, toys and snacks, this was such an easy, smooth ride. I just slept.
Landed in Cluj-Napoca, trip leader Raluca bundled me into a minibus and we headed north.
Before setting off, we are fed (something the Romanians are very good at, as I will quickly learn). I loved the delicious pepper and mushroom soup with sour cream, while the roast chicken with potatoes was so full of flavour too. Little did I expect what a culinary journey I was about to embark on.
Day 2
Up at 8.30am after a good night’s sleep, I enjoyed a typical Romanian breakfast at the family-owned Pension Elegance at Guru Humorului.
The hotel itself is not pretentious – and not what we would probably class as a 4* hotel in the UK – but it is comfortable and homely. My room had a small balcony overlooking the gorgeous countryside. What else could I ask for?
First stop was the UNESCO-listed Sucevița Monastery. The painted monastery is home to 80 nuns and is gorgeous. Even having grown up in a country of Catholic churches, it was unlike anything I had seen before.
Afterwards, it was time to start hiking. The weather was a bit misty, but thankfully not rainy. Our hike started at Palma Pass checkpoint and led us through spruce forests. I found the hike on the first day rewarding and exciting; I felt pleased with myself for comfortably managing the 10km walk.
I was definitely ready for lunch by the time we stopped at Popas la Cosma, one of the guesthouses along the trail, famous for its authentic local dairy products made by shepherds. They could not have been more welcoming, showing us the accommodation and how they prepared the food. As well as the usual beds, there was an option to sleep in the hay barn.
We were served a delicious selection of meats and cheeses, as well as a yummy salad, but I am so glad I left room for dessert because the pancakes, filled with sweet cheese and blueberries, were incredibly moreish.
Day 3
A 45-minute drive away, we transferred to Sadova trailhead via Vatra Moldoviței. The second day of hiking – around 11km – was definitely the most challenging one of the three, most likely because the sunny, warm weather made the journey feel completely different from the previous day.
The process of walking through the woods, placing one foot in front of another, helped clear my head. By the end of our second day of trekking, I felt calmer and clearer-minded than I had in months.
The lunch stop at La Moara Bucovina restaurant was the best meal I had in Romania, without a doubt. Not only was the location breathtaking and the hosts incredibly warm and friendly, but the food was also excellent from start to finish. The highlight was a sarmale, a traditional Romanian dish consisting of stuffed cabbage rolls with rice and mince.
Our room for the night was at Hotel Dorna in Vatra Dornei, a ski resort town. Excited to be in a bit of a livelier place for the first time, I explored the beautiful, but quiet town before dinner.
Day 4
On our third day of hiking, we drove to the Mestecăni trailhead, where there is a small, ridiculously cheap souvenir shop. I bought two mugs, three painted eggs and a jigsaw puzzle for £10.
Despite it being our third day of walking, the day’s hike feels easier. Perhaps my legs had gotten stronger. The highlight was the wildlife we saw, including a frog and a couple of snakes.
The lunch spot was another idyllic guest house with staggering, far-reaching views. As well as serving scrumptious food, Gigi Ursu Chalet has a lovely terrace where you can sunbathe on a sunny day. Happily, the rays were shining for our visit, providing a perfect atmosphere for me to meet the two resident puppies and a gorgeous, friendly back cat.
Day 5
Our last day was another travelling day, driving about three and a half hours back to Cluj-Napoca. Having some tasty pasta for lunch in a sunny square, we had a bit of time to explore the city centre before having to head to the airport.
The Via Transilvanica may not yet compete with the Camino de Santiago or Via Francigena, the iconic pilgrimage that links Canterbury and Rome, it has something else. A rawness and a quietness that come from walking through parts of the world far from where most ever tread.
It was sadly time to head back to the UK, but this short trip will stay with me for a long time – and inspire me to go on more hiking holidays.
Book it
Intrepid Travel’s 10-day Hiking in Romania: Via Transilvanica Trail costs from £1,616pp which includes accommodation, ground transport, services of a local leader, guided hikes and some meals and other activities. Book at intrepidtravel.com or call 0808 274 5111.