Such is the case with Burney Falls, a Northern California waterfall whose loveliness became such a siren song to costume-wearing Instagram mermaids, selfie-taking TikTok tour guides and off-the-beaten-track road trippers that crowds grew and grew, until the natural wonder just couldn’t handle it any more.
Crowds in recent years have damaged trails, trampled plants and clogged rural roads.
Now, as part of a pilot program to reduce overcrowding, the California Department of Parks and Recreation will require advance reservations to visit the Shasta County waterfall on many days this summer.
“Burney Falls is a crown jewel of the California State Park System, and we want all visitors to have an enjoyable and memorable experience when visiting this one-of-a-kind destination,” State Parks Director Armando Quintero said in a statement. “By allowing visitors to make a reservation in advance, we can help keep crowds manageable and not push the park’s resources past the breaking point.”
The reservations, which can be purchased online, will be required to visit the falls Fridays through Sundays and on holidays during peak visitation season, from May 15 through Sept. 27.
On those days, McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park will offer 103 parking passes for 8 a.m. to noon, an additional 103 passes for 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., and 35 passes for the entire day.
The day use passes will cost $11 per vehicle, according to State Parks, with discounts for seniors and people with disabilities.
California State Parks annual pass holders will pay no additional charge but must make reservations. Visitors with overnight campground or cabin reservations will not need additional passes for day use.
The 129-foot waterfall — a wide curtain of white water cascading from a basalt cliff face — generates its own rainbow and once was dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World” by President Theodore Roosevelt.
Visitors often endure long lines to get a selfie at Burney Falls. Here, Rachel Brussbau poses with her 1-year-old daughter, Sage, and Crysten Michol in July 2023.
(Paul Kuroda / For The Times)
But for much of its history, it “experienced limited visitation due to its rural location … and lack of publicity,” the State Parks department said in a statement.
“For generations of visitors, it had the reputation of a small, family-oriented park and one of California’s best-kept secrets,” the department said. “However, over the past decade, and especially with the growth of social media, that secret is now world-famous.”
Crowds swelled during the COVID-19 pandemic, when indoor public spaces closed.
A State Parks spokesperson told The Times in an email Monday that in 2015, Burney Falls had 121,495 visitors. Numbers “have steadily risen since that time, peaking at 322,192 visitors in 2020 during the pandemic,” the spokesperson said.
Since then, about 220,000 people have visited the park each year.
The spokesperson said the numbers account only for people who come in through the official entrance and not those who park illegally on the side of the road and enter off-trail.
Because so many people have veered off established trails, the park in recent years has experienced increased erosion and damage to sensitive vegetation and sacred tribal land, according to the State Parks department. Heavy traffic and illegal parking also have created unsafe conditions along State Highway 89, one of the heavily forested county’s main thoroughfares and a critical fire evacuation route.
“Campers with reservations are hesitant to leave the park, knowing that it may take up to two hours to re-enter on busy days,” the department statement read.
Because of limited parking, the gates often close for several hours each day.
“If lucky enough to gain entry, visitors inside the park are met with extreme overcrowding, long restroom lines, and overflowing trash cans instead of a peaceful, rejuvenating experience at one of the nation’s most awe-inspiring natural landmarks,” State Parks said.
In the summer of 2024, State Parks closed all access to the waterfall for the season to repair trails and slopes damaged by heavy crowds and storm erosion.
The department said it will evaluate the day use reservation system at the end of the summer and make adjustments if necessary for future peak visitation periods.
State Sen. Megan Dahle (R-Bieber), whose district includes Shasta County, said the pilot program “is likely to disrupt some trips” until word spreads.
“Unfortunately, for several years it has been clear something needs to change at Burney Falls,” Dahle said. “I hope this is an interim measure on the way to longer-term fixes to accommodate visitors.”
Up here, the river was a mere gurgle; a babbling babe finding its way into the world. A few sheep roamed, a kite wheeled and a spring-clean wind ruffled the tussocks on the barren hills and rippled the pools. It was a stark yet striking beginning. As we followed a brand new fingerpost, skirted Llyn Teifi – the river’s official source – and picked up the fledgling flow, there was a sense great things lay ahead, for us both.
The Teifi rises in Ceredigion’s Cambrian Mountains – the untramped “green desert of Wales” – and pours into Cardigan Bay 75 miles (120km) south-west. It’s one of the longest rivers wholly within Wales and, historically, one of its most significant: the beating heart of the country’s fishing and wool-weaving industries, 12th-century abbeys at either end, Wales’s oldest university en route.
However, those abbeys lie in ruin now, salmon and sewin (brown trout) stocks have plummeted, and the mills are shuttered – though the factory in the village of Dre-fach Felindre now operates as the National Wool Museum. Even the future of Lampeter’s venerable university is uncertain following the decision to end undergraduate teaching there. It’s as if the valley has lost its purpose. So some determined local walkers are giving it a new one.
Teifi Pools – the start of the walk. Photograph: CW Images/Alamy
The Teifi Valley Trail, an 83-mile hike following the river from source to sea, officially launched on 25 April, but has been decades in the making. The idea was born back when Ceredigion, Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire came under one authority (Dyfed), said Kay Davis of the Teifi Valley Trail Association (TVTA), when we met in Llanybydder. “Then the three counties separated in 1996 and it went off the boil. A long time later, we thought, wouldn’t it be great if there was a trail? So we got together with others in the area and went from there.”
It has been a grassroots, cooperative effort between members of local Ramblers groups, Walkers are Welcome communities and footpath associations along the valley, working to reopen paths, secure permissions, nail up waymarks and create a guide. Thought has been given to route quality, places to stay and accessibility by public transport.
“One of the main reasons for the trail is to get people with backpacks and boots down here to spend money,” added the TVTA’s James Williams. “We’ve seen the economic effect the coastal paths have; we thought we could have a bit of that as well.” Backpacked and booted, my husband and I were here to give it a go.
There’s certainly something powerful about following a river. Walking from Teifi Pools on our first day, that trickle led us across the moor and through wild, wooded valleys or cwms with the exuberance of youth. It soon took us to Strata Florida, the abbey founded in 1164 by Cistercian monks seeking solitude in nature – not to mention access to the area’s abundant timber, pasture, peat, lead ore and, of course, water. Little remains of the abbey now – a grand arch, some fine medieval tiles, a cottage housing a small but fascinating exhibition. But this was once the Westminster Abbey of Wales, second only in fame to St Davids and much larger than the ruins suggest. Many pilgrims made the journey here.
Walking beside the Teifi River between Llechryd and Cilgerran. Photograph: Sarah Baxter
Most have probably never heard of Strata Florida, and the Teifi Valley continued in this vein: a place of secrets and little-heard stories. These ranged from a buried elephant (behind Tregaron’s handsome Y Talbot Hotel, allegedly) to dry-stone walls built by Napoleonic prisoners of war. Llanddewi Brefi village was full of tales. On the old mountain-crossing drovers’ route, it has a soaring Norman church built on a mound said to have been miraculously raised by St David himself. These days, Llanddewi is better known as the scene of an enormous LSD drugs raid in 1977 or as the home of Little Britain’s “only gay in the village”. “Most here didn’t watch the show, and I didn’t mind it,” said Yvonne Edwards, landlady of Llanddewi’s New Inn, a proper no-frills-and-flagstones pub. “It was just annoying, having Australian journalists ringing in the middle of the night, and people stealing road signs.”
Further down the trail, just outside Llanybydder, we found one of Davis’s hidden gems: a woodland path, long unused, that her Ramblers group worked hard to reopen. “It’s tiny,” she’d told us, “but there’s a presence there, a good presence.” Indeed, it was like a shot of Narnia, a short stretch of moss-covered magic.
Over the following days, we flirted with the river. At times we were high above, peering from gorse-covered hill forts, across slopes of sheep-grazed green or through woods flush with bluebells. At others, we were on its banks, once close enough to glimpse an otter raise its silken head in the swirl. Beyond Llechryd, the path squeezed us through a tree-huddled gorge, the river’s murmurings joined by the gossip of thrushes, tits, blackcaps and wrens.
The general mood was soothing. It was hard to imagine this river roisterous with industry, fizzing with fish, busy with boats – Cardigan, within the Teifi’s tidal reach, was once the second-largest port in Wales. It’s a quieter town these days, and looking good, boosted by the restoration of its castle, which was rescued from ruin a decade ago. The castle hosted the first National Eisteddfod in 1176; in celebration of the 850th anniversary, the 2026 festival is being held at nearby Llantwd.
St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire, in the estuary of the Teifi. Photograph: Ceri Breeze/Alamy
We stayed in one of the castle’s refined rooms, but still had a few miles to go to reach journey’s end. The trail runs via St Dogmael’s Abbey and climbs high for views across the estuary before dropping to meet it at sweeping Poppit Sands. We washed our boots in the shallows, “our” river now indiscernible, swallowed by the sea.
It was a good walk. And perhaps it wasn’t over? “Early on, we had this idea to create the Celtic Circle,” Davis told me: a 175-mile loop linking the Teifi Valley Trail, a section of Wales Coast Path to Borth, and the Spirit of the Miners route from Borth to Strata Florida. “But we’ll see if we still have the energy after this!”
It was my first time hiking through Tilden Regional Park, a 2,079-acre wooded hilly expanse near Berkeley, and I was looking for one very specific thing: a small red, white and blue rounded triangular trail marker with a tiny map of the United States.
I’d already struck out twice, parking at the wrong trailheads, and I was really hoping the third time would be the charm. I trudged up the Upper Big Springs Trail, a wide dirt path lined with fragrant eucalyptus, pine trees and California bay laurels and, peeking out of the invasive grasses, California poppies and orange bush monkey flower.
I crested a hill after about two-thirds of a mile, and there I saw a sign, both literal and metaphorical, on a small brown post letting me know I was exactly where I needed to be. I was officially hiking along the American Discovery Trail, a contiguous 6,800-mile coast-to-coast nonmotorized route of multiuse trails that runs from Point Reyes National Seashore in Marin County to Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware.
The American Discovery Trail sign in Tilden Regional Park near Berkeley.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
“The ADT is all about connections — people to people, community to community, urban areas to wilderness,” according to a website outlining its history. “… The ADT connects five National Scenic, 12 National Historic, and 34 National Recreational Trails; passes through urban centers like Cincinnati and San Francisco; leads to 14 National Parks and 16 National Forests” and visits thousands of historic, cultural and natural sites.
I’m excited to share not only about the joy that can be found along this route, but also how you can join a relay in July across America along the trail. I certainly plan to!
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I’d never heard of the American Discovery Trail until last week when I attended the California Trails & Greenways conference in San Ramon. There, I met with American Discovery Trail co-founder John Fazel and John Mercurio, the trail’s California coordinator, to learn more.
The idea to create a coast-to-coast trail was born out of a 1980-81 hike across America called “HikaNation,” where several members of the American Hiking Society trekked more than 4,000 miles across the country. That adventure inspired Backpacker magazine and the American Hiking Society in 1989 to start developing the American Discovery Trail.
A view of the San Francisco Bay from the Seaview Trail in Tilden Regional Park near Berkeley. The route is a part of the American Discovery Trail.
Then, in 1991, the American Hiking Society hired a national coordinator to work with volunteer state coordinators to develop the route, and in 1996, trail advocates formed the American Discovery Trail Society to ensure their dreams became a reality.
“It’s an opportunity to get to know America up close and personal and not as a flyover,” said Fazel, who grew up in Iowa.
The San Pablo Reservior as seen from Tilden Regional Park near Berkeley.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Most people don’t complete the trail in one trip, Fazel said, as it takes months to finish and requires participants to leave the East Coast around February to ensure that enough snow has melted by the time they reach the mountains in Colorado and California.
Although the trail has existed for several years, Fazel and Mercurio admit that they don’t know exactly how much of the route is a recreational trail, sidewalk or roadway. That’s in part because it’s a technically complicated task to complete, especially for a mostly volunteer group. But it’s also because the route is ever-evolving (which is actually exciting).
“Since we got involved, small towns, counties, even states are funding millions of dollars to build trails in their area, and when they see a national trail goes across the country, they want to connect to it, and when they do, where it is on back roads, we can move it off,” Fazel said. “And it happens.”
A labyrinth in Tilden Regional Park along the American Discovery Trail.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times )
In California, the only place hikers are on pavement for a significant amount of time is from the Antioch Bridge north to Sacramento as they travel through the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, Fazel said.
Mercurio said he is working with local officials to try to move the trail from this narrow roadway onto an old railroad track that’s owned by the state.
“It’s been sitting there vacant for many, many years,” Mercurio said. “Now, they should know that there’s this national trail, this coast-to-coast trail, [that] is interested in utilizing that to provide a safe way for us to make our way across the delta.”
Unlike the Pacific Crest Trail, Appalachian Trail and other multistate routes, the American Discovery Trail is not federally designated under existing law.
The National Park Service studied the American Discovery Trail in the mid-’90s and acknowledged that the American Discovery Trail doesn’t fit neatly into any of the existing categories outlined in the National Trails System Act, Mercurio said. The agency mapped out three options for Congress to consider, including creating a new category for discovery trails, he said.
A lush tree canopy along the Seaview Trail, part of the American Discovery Trail, in Tilden Regional Park.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Trail advocates have been pushing Congress for more than 25 years to create such a category. They came close in 2021 when U.S. Rep. Mark DeSaulnier (D-Concord) introduced such legislation that garnered 63 co-sponsors.
“We had people on the House resources committee who were far right and killed it,” Fazel said, adding the trail has otherwise garnered bipartisan support for decades in states it passes through.
There was a mix of suspicion and concern that the recognition of the trail would lead to eminent domain and requests for federal money, neither of which the trail’s organizers want, Fazel and Mercurio said.
“The thing is, we don’t build any trail at all,” Mercurio said. “All we do is route onto stuff that’s already there, and our presence influences local jurisdictions to create trail that would be good for our route. But they’re in this anti-federal feeling, so they just knee-jerk don’t want to support it.”
The Golden Gate Bridge as seen from Tilden Regional Park.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
The duo remains optimistic that their trail will get national recognition. In the interim, they’ve got other big plans.
On July 1, as long as everything goes according to plan, the American Discovery Trail Society will launch its “America 250 Relay,” aiming to cross the Golden Gate Bridge by July 4 and ending in Delaware at the Atlantic Ocean on Thanksgiving Day.
Anyone can join to traverse the trail in a people- or horse-powered way. Participants will carry a copy of the Declaration of Independence in a celebration of America and the outdoors. (I’ve already texted two best friends to entice them to do part of the relay with me!)
A flax-leaved blue pimpernel in Tilden Regional Park.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
In a time of rising authoritarianismacross the globe, it’s important we seek both joy and connection, focusing less on what we’re fed by algorithms and more on our shared humanity. I know that sounds fairly Pollyanna, but especially as a transgender American who constantly worries about whether I can safely visit my family in the Midwest, where lawmakers are seemingly seeking to outlaw my existence, I do actually mean it.
As I neared the end of the trail, a golden Labrador retriever greeted me, and after lots of head scratches, I met the dog’s owner. He and I started chatting, and soon realized that, although we belonged to different generations, we had both grown up as farm kids.
He started to tell me the story of when his dad ran himself over with a tractor.
“My dad ran himself over with a tractor too!” I said. “Did your dad start the tractor from the ground even though he’d told you a million times as a kid not to?”
“No, but he did try to get off and get back on a moving tractor,” he said, which my new friend’s father had repeatedly told him not to do.
I didn’t expect to discuss tractors and hay bales with a stranger in the East Bay, but I found that these experiences are a part of what the American Discovery Trail provides.
3 things to do
A human and canine guest travel along a previous CicLAvia event route.
(CicLAvia Los Angeles)
1. Wander the car-free streets of West L.A. CicLAvia, an L.A. nonprofit, will host a free three-mile, car-free open streets event from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday through West L.A. The event marks the 65th open streets event the organization has held around L.A., but it’s the first time that one has been held in West L.A. The route includes portions of Santa Monica and Westwood boulevards. Attendees are invited to traverse the route in any people-powered device, although there are certain restrictions on e-bikes. Learn more at ciclavia.org.
2. Prop up the pollinators in Castaic TreePeople will host Pollinator Palooza from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Saturday at Castaic Lake. Volunteers will plant milkweed and restore habitat. The event will also feature plant giveaways, an environmental resource fair and a pollinator-themed fashion show. Learn more at treepeople.org.
3. Orient yourself in Irvine Save Orange Hills and Naturalist For You will host a hike, yoga and meditation event from 8 to 10 a.m. Sunday at Irvine Regional Park. After a short warm-up hike, guests will take part in an all-levels yoga session. Tickets are $17.85, but no one will be turned away due to lack of funds. Register at eventbrite.com.
The must-read
San Joaquin River Parkway, currently operated by the San Joaquin River Conservancy, would join various properties into an 874-acre state park, expanding recreation opportunities and greater access along the river. The park would complement nearby Millerton Lake State Recreation Area.
(California State Parks)
California could soon see the development of three new state parks in the Central Valley. State officials announced the proposed parks on Wednesday, which are Feather River Park in Yuba County, San Joaquin River Parkway near Fresno and Dust Bowl Camp in Bakersfield, Times staff writer Hayley Smith wrote. State officials also aim to expand three existing parks in Mendocino County, Nevada County and San Mateo County. “California’s state parks are nothing short of iconic — with locations like Big Sur, Southern California beaches, and the world’s tallest trees — but our state has even more to offer,” said Wade Crowfoot, California’s natural resources secretary.
Happy adventuring,
P.S.
Hikers and trail builders have until April 30 to complete the California Trails Survey, which state officials will use to help shape how nonmotorized recreational trails are developed in the state — and how officials use millions from Prop 4, often called the “climate bond” because its money is supposed to be spent to combat climate change. The survey includes two portions, one for trail users and another for trail builders and advocates. If you fit both categories, you are invited to complete both portions. Early data, released at a trails conference I attended last week, suggested that white hikers were overrepresented in the results, so please spread the word, especially to BIPOC hiking organizations in your area!
For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.
PORTLAND, Ore. — Deni Avdija scored 35 points, Donovan Clingan had 18 points and 13 rebounds, and the Portland Trail Blazers beat the Clippers 116-97 on Friday night to take the inside track for the eighth seed in the Western Conference.
If Portland beats the Sacramento Kings on Sunday, the Blazers will secure their spot in the 7-8 play-in game on Tuesday in Phoenix against the Suns.
Robert Williams III had 13 points and 10 rebounds as Portland outrebounded the Clippers 46-35 and won the turnover battle despite leading the league in turnovers.
Kawhi Leonard led the Clippers with 24 points and eight rebounds.
After Portland took a 55-35 first-half lead, the Clippers stormed back. Jordan Miller’s three-pointer gave the Clippers their first lead since the first quarter at 82-79 with 2:05 left in the third. But the lead was short-lived as Matisse Thybulle tied it at 82 on Portland’s next possession.
After the Clippers took an 88-86 lead with 11:06 left, Jrue Holiday tied the game at 88 with free throws and Williams gave Portland a 90-88 lead with 10:31 left.
Williams scored on a dunk with 8:22 left to make it 92-88, forcing a timeout. Leonard missed a jumper out of the timeout and Avdija’s three-point play made it 95-88 with 7:41 left.
Avdija made two foul shots to make it 99-90 with 4:51 left. Brook Lopez’s three-pointer with 4:36 left made it 99-93. Portland’s Toumani Camara made it 101-93 on Portland’s next possession. Lopez was called for a technical foul with 3:26 left and Avdija made the shot to make it 104-93.
Avdija hit a three-pointer with 2:41 left to make it 109-93 and Portland never looked back.
Portland’s Shaedon Sharpe returned after missing the last 28 games and finished with eight points in 15 minutes.
Up next for the Clippers: Host the Warriors on Sunday.
Deni Avdija had 28 points, 11 rebounds and eight assists, Jrue Holiday hit seven threes and finished with 30 points, and the Portland Trail Blazers snapped the Clippers’ five-game win streak, 114-104 on Tuesday night.
The Clippers (39-37) are eighth in the Western Conference, a half-game in front of the ninth-place Blazers (39-38). The Clippers lead the season series — which wraps up April 10 in Portland — with the Blazers 2-1.
Toumani Camara scored 17 points and Scoot Henderson added 15 for the Trail Blazers.
Leonard has scored at least 20 points in 52 consecutive games, the second-longest active streak of its kind in the NBA (Oklahoma City’s Shai Gilgeous-Alexander has a 136-game streak).
Matisse Thybulle hit a three-pointer that made it 31-29 with 1:06 left in the first quarter and the Blazers led the rest of the way.
Garland made a bucket in the lane that trimmed the Clippers’ deficit to eight with 3:44 left in the third quarter but they got no closer. Henderson hit a step-back three at the buzzer to cap a 16-5 run that made it 91-74 going into the fourth.
Portland had 18 offensive rebounds and 32 second-chance points. The Blazers went into the game leading the NBA in second-chance points (18.2 per game) and are second in offensive rebounds (14.1 per game).
Avdija made 11 of 12 from the free-throw line and has 31 games this season with at least 10 free-throw attempts, second most in the NBA behind Luka Doncic.
Portland’s Jerami Grant (calf) missed his second consecutive game.
Up next for the Clippers: vs. San Antonio at Intuit Dome on Thursday.
Time Out has ranked the 51 most beautiful places in the world, and the top spot goes to Spain’s Picos de Europa mountain range that’s just a two-hour flight from the UK with Ryanair
The Picos de Europa is in Spain and located just over 12 miles from the coastline(Image: Manuel ROMARIS via Getty Images)
The world is brimming with extraordinary destinations to discover, and pinpointing the most stunning is no easy feat, but Time Out has tackled the task.
The publication recently unveiled a list of the 51 most beautiful places in the world, featuring everything from lakes to beaches, National Parks, libraries, vineyards, and historic towns. Yet, claiming the number one position is a breathtaking mountain range that provides remarkable hiking opportunities, and it’s merely a two-hour flight from the UK.
The Picos de Europa in Spain is a striking, rugged limestone mountain range that soars to a height of 2,650 metres. Located just over 12 miles from the coastline, the mountains ascend steeply, forming deep gorges to discover, reports Express.
One route, the Cares Trail, ranks among the most sought-after walks in Spain, tracing a canyon and passing through craggy peaks and cascading waterfalls.
Spanning 13 miles in total, it’s not suitable for novices, though its gentle inclines make it achievable for walkers who can manage the distance. A straightforward choice is to board the Fuente Dé cable car, whisking you up the mountainside in moments and letting you relax and admire the verdant landscape below.
Upon reaching the summit, you can also explore additional hiking trails, including some demanding, steep climbs that provide spectacular vistas.
The mountains form part of the broader Picos de Europa National Park, and this region features the Lakes of Covadonga. These glistening blue waters are encircled by peaks and vegetation and resemble landscapes you’d encounter in Scotland or the Lake District, making it difficult to believe you’re in Spain.
This protected national park is abundant with wildlife, including brown bears, wolves, vultures, and eagles, and you’ll probably encounter mountain goats and vibrant butterflies amongst the limestone surroundings.
At the foot of the mountains, you can discover towns like the medieval Potes, brimming with centuries-old stone and half-timbered buildings and cobbled streets that lend it a rustic allure.
The town’s centrepiece is the Torre del Infantado, a 15th-century tower once the residence of medieval royalty, now a museum with a rooftop terrace providing sweeping views of the town.
Arenas de Cabrales on the park’s periphery is another favoured spot to stay. It’s renowned for producing Cabrales cheese, and has evolved into a gastronomic hotspot due to its plethora of acclaimed restaurants serving Northern Spanish cuisine.
Don’t expect to find paella on the menu. In this region, the dishes are hearty and rustic, such as bean stews and grilled meat, with ingredients sourced locally from the mountains.
The Picos de Europa is just under two hours from Santander Airport, and is serviced by airlines including Ryanair. Routes from the UK to Santander operate year-round from Edinburgh and London-Stansted, and seasonal flights operate from Birmingham and Manchester. Flights start from just £15 one-way and take 2 hours from the UK.
Got a story you’d like to share? Drop us an email at webtravel@reachplc.com
Standing in Tintern Abbey, you can feel the magic that has given this small Monmouthshire village on the banks of the Wye and its famous ruin such an outsized place in culture. JMW Turner, Gainsborough and Samuel Palmer are just some of the artists who have captured this landscape, and Wordsworth and Tennyson famously wrote poems inspired by Tintern. But it was Allen Ginsberg’s Welsh Visitation and his “clouds passing through skeleton arches” that came to mind while I sheltered from a cloudburst in the abbey’s nave. It’s a vast and fascinating site, and seeing it through sheets of rain as the sun went down was really special.
Ginsberg was here in the 1960s, following in the footsteps of the Romantics. But Tintern’s fame came thanks to its inclusion in travel writer William Gilpin’s 1782 book Observations on the River Wye. Gilpin’s writing about the “picturesque” – landscapes that inspired art through their rugged beauty – was so popular in the late 18th century that the Wye Tour was created to meet tourist demand, one of the first package trips in British travel history.
Tintern has been a destination ever since for literary travellers – though there are also many hillwalkers and canoeists who love the geography as much as the aesthetics of the area. So it’s interesting that the Royal George, the beautifully renovated coaching inn that has recently reopened in the village after a two-year refurbishment, takes local history and craft as its inspiration rather than leaning into the area’s national reputation.
The atmospheric ruins of Tintern Abbey. Photograph: Sebastian Wasek/Alamy
A building has stood on the hotel’s location since the 16th century – it was originally the village forge owner’s home – but the renovation has opened under the name the Royal George because that’s what local people have always called it. The name comes from the warship HMS Royal George, which sank in Portsmouth in 1782, drowning hundreds on board in one of Britain’s worst maritime disasters. Timbers salvaged from the wreck were supposedly used in the construction of the inn, which opened in 1829. Camilla Kelly, the designer behind the refurbishment, found a ship’s bell which bears the insignia of another George, this one HRH George VI, which is now used to call last orders in the hotel bar
There are exposed paving flags and beams that date back to the 1600s as well as charmingly wonky walls and low ceiling beams but, unlike many hotels that aspire to the rustic, shabby chic vibe currently popular for a country stay, the Royal George is smart and very well put together. In its 20 bedrooms and dining rooms there is some vintage furniture – Kelly grew up in nearby Abergavenny with parents who worked in antiques shops and markets – but it’s the beautiful blankets and textiles made at the celebrated Pembrokeshire Melin Tregwynt mill, the metalwork art by local blacksmith and sculptor Mark Lumley, and the ornaments from Baileys Home, a destination shop for interiors fans that’s just up the road in Bridstow, that define this place.
One of 20 rooms at the Royal George. Photograph: Dave Watts
It’s clearly a formula that’s proving popular with local people as well as visitors. At dinner time in the nautically named Upper Deck restaurant, there were families from the surrounding area who had come for a celebration meal. The pub dining room – the Lower Deck, of course – was full of local people including young parents sharing a plate of chips with their kids, as well as out-of-towners. It’s a testament to the quality of the food, which is really, really good.
Most dishes use ingredients from local farmers, growers and foragers and there are excellent and imaginative vegetarian options. Sunday lunch during my stay included a magnificent brie parcel as a special. Apparently, a local cheesemaker had brought in a particularly nice sample and chef Gareth Hope couldn’t resist adding it to the menu. I’d also recommend trying the Welsh wines – especially the sparkling Velfrey and the White Castle pinot noir.
Hope is particularly grateful that the George has become a pub for local people. At Christmas time, one of those dreaded courier delivery photos flashed up on his phone, of a parcel dropped in an unrecognisable doorway. Unfortunately, this parcel contained £450 worth of caviar for the Christmas menu. Hope shared his misfortune with the bar’s regulars and, after seeing the photo, one of them jogged off into a storm, reappearing with the caviar 20 minutes later.
It’s probably worth noting, with all this talk of fine food and furniture, that the Royal George isn’t as expensive as it sounds, with mains in the Lower Deck starting at £14 and a night in a garden room from £135.
The village of Tintern sits on the banks of the River Wye. Photograph: Maciej Olszewski/Alamy
If you want to walk off some of this lovely food, the 5-mile Angidy trail is an interesting journey through Tintern’s often overlooked industrial history. Before the abbey ruins turned it into a tourist attraction, the village was famous for its iron wire, and in 1600 the wireworks here were the largest industrial enterprise in Wales. The remains of the furnaces, waterwheels and workers’ cottages are dotted along the Angidy valley and among the hazel trees and larches on the forested hills. The ruins of St Mary’s church – built in the 13th century by the Cistercian monks for their lay tenants, but on a religious site dating back to the 5th century – will never rival the abbey, but the tombstones of the old industrialists – including one shaped like a wine cooler – are impressive, and there is a great view from the graveyard down to the Wye.
For a different but equally pleasurable excursion, go to the previously mentioned Baileys Home. The homeware store, owned by designers Mark and Sally Bailey, is massive. The showrooms fill not just a barn but also a cowshed, stable, granary and loft with a mix of antiques, vintage pieces and handmade furniture. You can browse smithy-made coat hooks and soap made from organic sheep’s milk for under a tenner, or try the bespoke sofas for size.
Inside or out, this is a very special corner of Wales. It may have found fame as a muse for visiting artists, but if you come here, don’t forget to look for the other stories told by the landscape.
Accommodation and dinner was provided by the Royal George in Tintern, which has doubles from £135, room only
