wild

Reporting from Washington — Justice Neil M. Gorsuch, President Trump’s first appointee to the Supreme Court, is proving to be a different kind of conservative.

He is a libertarian who is quick to oppose unchecked government power, even in the hands of prosecutors or the police. And he is willing to go his own way and chart a course that does not always align with the traditional views on the right or the left.

In several of the term’s biggest cases, Gorsuch voted as expected. He joined the court’s conservatives, including Justice Brett M. Kavanaugh, to reject legal challenges to partisan gerrymandering. The two Trump appointees voted in dissent to uphold the administration’s plan to add a citizenship question to the 2020 census.

In the case of whether a giant cross on a Maryland highway violated the separation of church and state, Gorsuch took the most conservative position and said lawsuits filed by people who are “offended” but not actually harmed by such things should be tossed out.

But in the last month, he also wrote several broad and bold opinions — mostly in dissent — urging the court to revive the Constitution’s protections for individual liberty. He did so while taking the side of people not usually embraced by conservative justices, including a sex offender from Maryland, an Alabama man who was prosecuted twice for carrying a gun in his car, and two African American men from Texas who were sentenced to more than 50 years in prison for robbing gas stations.

Jonathan Adler, a law professor at Case Western Reserve University in Cleveland, calls Gorsuch “a maverick conservative with a libertarian streak. It’s remarkable that he and Kavanaugh disagreed in 30% of the term’s cases. This shows they are quite different types of conservatives.”

Earlier this year, Gorsuch wrote an opinion clearing the way for long-haul truckers to sue their employers over substandard wages, and he wrote dissents in favor of an injured railroad worker who was battling the train line over the damages he won, and a disabled construction worker fighting the Social Security Administration over disability benefits.

“Walk for a moment in Michael Biestek’s shoes,” he wrote in a dissent in the construction worker’s case that was joined by Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg and in part by Justice Sonia Sotomayor. “As part of your application for disability benefits, you’ve proven that you suffer from serious health problems and can’t return to your old construction job. Like many cases, yours turns on whether a significant number of other jobs remain that someone of your age, education and experience, and with your physical limitations, could perform.”

At Biestek’s hearing, an expert testifying for the agency said there were 360,000 jobs nationwide that he could perform. “Where did those numbers come from?” Gorsuch asked. When pressed about the source of this data, the expert said it came from a confidential private survey. The agency examiner ruled this evidence was good enough to justify denying Biestek’s claim, and the high court agreed by a 6-3 vote. “Count me” with the lower-court judges who were skeptical, Gorsuch said.

His most important opinion of the term came in a case that was seen as an opening salvo in the war over the “administrative state.” Conservatives have sought to rein in federal regulators, including the Environmental Protection Agency. Liberals are just as determined to defend them. The battle was fought, oddly enough, in the case of Herman Gundy, a sex offender who served five years in prison in Maryland and then moved to New York in 2012.

There, he was charged with failing to register as a sex offender as required under a law adopted by Congress in 2006, two years after his crime. The law said the “attorney general shall have the authority” to decide whether to apply the registration rule to the more than 500,000 offenders like Gundy whose crimes predated it.

Sarah Baumgartel, a federal public defender in New York, appealed Gundy’s conviction, in part, for violating “the non-delegation doctrine.” This refers to the principle that Congress may not delegate its lawmaking power to the president or executive agencies. It’s a doctrine studied in law schools, but not since 1935 has the high court struck down a law on this basis.

But she thought the appeal might interest Gorsuch and other justices, even though it had lost in every lower court. “This has been considered a dead-letter doctrine by many people. But he has a libertarian streak and a greater skepticism about federal power,” she said.

Her instinct was right. The eight-member court heard the case in the first week of October, a week before Kavanaugh was confirmed. But on June 20, the court ruled against Gundy in a splintered 5-3 decision, with Gorsuch writing a 33-page dissent in Gundy vs. U.S.

“The Constitution promises that only the people’s elected representatives may adopt new federal laws restricting liberty,” Gorsuch wrote. “Yet the statute before us scrambles that design. It purports to endow the nation’s chief prosecutor with the power to write his own criminal code governing the lives of a half-million citizens. Yes, those affected are some of the least popular among us. But if a single executive branch official can write laws restricting the liberty of this group of persons, what does that mean for the next?”

Chief Justice John G. Roberts Jr. and Justice Clarence Thomas agreed with Gorsuch. Justice Samuel A. Alito said he would be willing to accept this argument in a future case. And with Kavanaugh on board, the conservatives would have a majority.

Gorsuch was also on the losing end of an effort to reject the “dual sovereigns” doctrine that allows both the federal government and a state to prosecute a person for essentially the same crime. This double prosecution seems, to some, to conflict with the 5th Amendment, which says: “No person shall … be subject for the same offense to be twice put in jeopardy for life and limb.”

The case began in 2015 when a police officer in Mobile, Ala., pulled over Terance Gamble for a damaged headlight and found a loaded handgun in his car. Gamble had an earlier robbery conviction and pleaded guilty to state charges for having a gun in his possession. Later, federal prosecutors also charged him as a felon with a gun, and he was given three more years in prison.

The Supreme Court rejected his double-jeopardy claim on June 17, over dissents by Gorsuch and Ginsburg. “A free society does not allow its government to try the same individual for the same crime until it’s happy with the result,” Gorsuch wrote in Gamble vs. United States. “Unfortunately, the court today endorses a colossal exception to this ancient rule against double jeopardy.… The separate sovereigns was wrong when it was invented, and it remains wrong today.”

But on June 24, Gorsuch spoke for a 5-4 majority to overturn about half of 50-year prison terms given to Maurice Davis and Andre Glover of Texas for robbing four gas stations. They were convicted of the robberies and for brandishing a gun and given long prison terms. They were given an extra 25 years under a 1986 law for conspiring to engage in conduct that, “by its nature, involves a substantial risk that physical force” will be used.

In United States vs. Davis, Gorsuch said this part of the law is so vaguely worded that no one can tell for sure what it means. “Vague statutes threaten to hand responsibility for defining crimes to relatively unaccountable police, prosecutors and judges, eroding the people’s ability to oversee the creation of the laws they are expected to abide,” said Gorsuch, who was joined by the court’s four liberals. In dissent, Kavanaugh called the ruling a “serious mistake” and said it could mean “many dangerous offenders … might walk out of prison early.”

Brandon Beck, a federal public defender in Lubbock, Texas, who appealed on behalf of Davis, said he tailored his argument to Gorsuch because he “is very concerned by the text and the separation of powers. … He is also very independent, and I have lot of respect for that.”

Progressive lawyers stress that Gorsuch is a reliable conservative on most issues. Brianne Gorod, counsel for the Constitutional Accountability Center, said he “is like the justice he replaced — Justice Antonin Scalia — in more ways than one.”

Gorsuch’s record is exceptionally conservative, she said. But also like Scalia, he has sometimes demonstrated a willingness to part ways with his fellow conservatives in criminal justice cases. “Those votes suggest possible libertarian-liberal alliances may be something to look out for in the terms ahead,” Gorod said.

A Colorado native, Gorsuch has also tilted the court in favor of Native Americans and tribal treaties. In March, he cast the fifth vote with the liberals to rule for the Yakama tribe, which relied on a 1855 treaty in refusing to pay a fuel tax to Washington state for using its highways.

Gorsuch wrote a concurring opinion in Washington State vs. Cougar Den, joined by Ginsburg, to explain the history and closed with this passage: “Really, this case just tells an old and familiar story. The state of Washington includes millions of acres that the Yakamas ceded to the United States under pressure. In return, the government supplied a handful of modest promises. The state is now dissatisfied with the consequences of one of those promises. It is a new day, and now it wants more. But today and to its credit, the court holds the parties to the terms of their deal. It is the least we can do.”

STEP into your own David Attenborough show on a dreamy family staycay.

From a gorgeous country estate on the England/Wales border, to seal-spotting and wild swimming while kipping in sleepy Harleston

Marrington Escapes, Shropshire

Lifestyle Editor Catherine Bennion-Pedley and her gang found a gorgeous country estate brimming with nature on the England/Wales border.

A grazing pony, strutting pheasants and hopping hares are just a few of our neighbours on the glorious, family-owned Marrington Estate.

And we’ve spied them all before we even embark on an hour’s walk down through the stunning Dingle Valley, where the babbling River Camlad is home to crayfish, otters and kingfishers.

We’re kipping in one of the estate’s biggest properties, Marrington Farmhouse, which sleeps 10 under cloud-like duvets – although the dining room is better-suited to eight – and which comes with a kitchen proper cooks will love.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

A large hot tub, The Traitors board game complete with cloak, a verdant lawn and an apple orchard brimming with harvest make it an idyllic spot and, come evening, we toast marshmallows on the firepit and stargaze.

Our welcome hamper includes pistachio sablés from What A Pickle! in the county’s foodie capital Ludlow and a bottle of zingy Shropshire Lady white wine using Solaris grapes from Kerryvale Vineyard, 10 minutes’ drive away.

But with little ones in tow, we resist a vineyard tour and tasting, £25 per person (Kerryvalevineyard.co.uk), and instead take a trip across the border to Wales on board a steam train.

The nearby Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway trundles us through the rolling hills and, once we arrive in Llanfair, Poppy, seven, and Raffy, four, are thrilled when the friendly driver spots them looking on wide-eyed in awe and invites them into his cabin to pull the steam whistle.

Return tickets cost £27 per adult, £10 per child (Wllr.org.uk). We’re also close to several castles, from which we pick the striking 13th-century Powis Castle, a 20-minute drive away.

Its baroque terraces are a spectacular display of colour, and feasting on a cream tea, £7.50, among the blooms before a stroll through the woodlands is heavenly.

Adult tickets cost £18, over-fives are £9 (Nationaltrust.org.uk).

On our way back, we make a pitstop at The Nags Head Inn in Garthmyl for the Sunday roast of dreams, tucking into a delicate crab salad with watermelon and pineapple salsa, before tackling ginormous three-meat platters with all the trimmings in the lively dining space (Nagsheadgarthmyl.co.uk).

Two courses cost from £24.45, and we haven’t had a roast that good since!

Stays at Marrington Farmhouse, sleeping 10, cost from £30 per person, per night (Marringtonescapes.com).

Mendham Mill, Suffolk

Writer Ellie O’Mahoney and her family spotted seals and tried wild swimming while kipping in sleepy Harleston.

Paddling in canoes up the River Waveney, it feels like we are in the middle of a painting.

We’re staying at Mendham Mill Holiday Cottages on the Norfolk/Suffolk border, and canoes here are free to borrow, from which we spot newly hatched goslings, grazing cows and a hovering kestrel.

We’re bedding down in wheelchair-friendly North Meadow Cottage, which sleeps six, and our children, Elliot, 11, and Molly, nine, whoop for joy when they find the games room with table tennis and a pool table.

Later, we take a bracing swim in the river at the bottom of the garden, then warm up under the outdoor shower.

Norfolk is famous for its seal colonies, so we make the hour’s drive to one of the UK’s largest, Horsey Gap, to spot them (Horseygap.co.uk).

Close by is wooden marvel BeWILDerwood, where the kids burn off their energy exploring the treehouses, zip wires, mazes and slides.

Tickets cost from £20.95 for those over 92cm (Bewilderwood.co.uk).
Another day, Framlingham Castle, inspo for Ed Sheeran’s Castle On The Hill, proves the perfect spot for playing warring knights.

Entry costs from £8.10 (English-heritage.org.uk).

Later, we get a Michelin-recommended taste of old-school Suffolk at The Peacock Inn in Chelsworth, a 14th-century Grade-II-listed pub in the prettiest of villages.

Battered haddock with koji tartar sauce, £18, is standout, while the mousse, £11, made with 85% chocolate from local chocolatier Pump Street is to die for (Thepeacockchelsworth.com).

Stays at Mendham Mill Holiday Cottages, sleeping six, cost from £35 per person, per night (Premiercottages.co.uk).

 OR GO REALLY WILD…

The Reserve, Cheshire

Wake up to giraffes as campmates at Chester Zoo, says Lifestyle Editor Catherine Bennion-Pedley.

Stuffing play balls with lucerne hay, my kids are thoroughly enjoying preparing teatime treats for giraffes with zookeeper Sophie, while learning about their surprisingly small poos and why their long tongues are black (to protect them from the sun, FYI).

The excitement continues when later we join an after-hours tour to catch a glimpse of nocturnal animals waking, including aardvarks, and learn about the incredible cancer-fighting superpower of naked mole rats.

By sleeping over, guests are helping the conservation efforts here and The Reserve’s reception, restaurant and bar ooze sophistication.

Welcome cocktails of sapling vodka, lime and honey – and juices for the kids – are quickly slurped, and the 51 lodges are swishly furnished, although our lakeside pad is without much of an actual lake view and comes with the buzz of traffic that leaves us feeling very much still in England when on our veranda.

Pricier lodges overlook the giraffe enclosure and, on our stroll to the plentiful breakfast, we spot the majestic creatures through gaps in the foliage.

As well as exclusive animal tours and fireside stories in the lounge, overnight guests also get to step into the zoo early, and it is undoubtedly one of the UK’s best – home to more than 500 species, including orangutans, elephants, leopards and lions.

All in all, our little ones think this is a roar-some mini-break.

Family stays for four at The Reserve cost from £306 B&B, including two-day zoo access (Chesterzoo.org).

Walk with the gods above Amalfi, Italy

If you have a head for heights, then you can “walk with the gods” on the Sentiero degli Dei. It’s cut into the vertiginous hillside high above the Amalfi coast, offering heavenly views all the way to Capri and beyond. Ten breathtaking kilometres later, you’ll rejoin the earthly hordes of Instagrammers in the undeniably beautiful but crowded Positano. A super-convenient combined bus and ferry ticket from Travelmar takes you from any of the coastal towns to the start of the walk, in the lovely hamlet of Bomerano, in Agerola, and from Positano back to your base.
Brian

A stunning hike to Poland’s Eye of the Sea

The Five Lakes hike in the Tatras is the most beautiful in Poland. Starting from the parking lot at Palenica Białczańska, you gain elevation as you head south along a tumbling stream. After two hours, you arrive at the first of five glittering lakes surrounded by an amphitheatre that forms the border with Slovakia. Stop at Dolinie Pięciu Stawów hut to enjoy a hearty żurek (sour rye soup) as you contemplate the lake-pocked landscape. Fortified, climb southeast until, cresting the ridge, Morskie Oko (“Eye of the Sea”), the most storied lake in Poland, comes into view, glittering far below and engulfed by sheer mountain walls, including Poland’s highest peak. At the lakeside hut, you’ll have earned a Żywiec lager. Now, whether to follow the gentle trail back to the car park or push on to Rysy, 1,100m above …
Ryan

Cold dips and butterflies in Georgia

The Svaneti region of Georgia is a hiker’s dream. The Ushguli to Mestia route on the Transcaucasian Trail passes through some of the most dramatic and beautiful mountain landscapes I’ve ever encountered. Ancient stone towers, glacial pools perfect for a cold dip, meadows thick with wildflowers and butterflies, and the occasional wild horse made it feel like a film set. The villages are genuinely welcoming, the food is hearty and the biodiversity stopped me in my tracks. No photograph comes close to capturing it. If you haven’t considered Georgia for hiking, move it to the top of your list immediately.
Aoife

Saunas and reindeer in Swedish Lapland

Over seven days last summer we walked a section of the Kungsleden Trail from Abisko to Nikkaluokta in Swedish Lapland, in the Arctic Circle – and it was a magical experience. It was surprising even to us that we managed to find a holiday that suited a group of four teenagers and two adults. By the end, we all agreed that the lack of internet was a bonus not a bug. The walking was testing enough to be a challenge but also left enough time for card games and enjoying the saunas along the way. The huts we stayed in were great and allowed our packs to be kept light. A highlight was spotting reindeer on the last day.
Paul

Wildflowers and strudel in Austria

The beautiful Wildschönau valley in Austria offers amazing hiking options accessible for the whole family. We hiked between 10 and 15 miles every day exploring this amazing landscape. The meadows of wildflowers were breathtaking. The cable cars in Niederau and Auffac allow you to explore higher routes offering 360-degree panoramas with a little less effort. The signposting of routes was incredible and the free buses allowed us to travel throughout the area easily. The climb to the top of Joelspitze was our highlight, spotting beautiful gentian flowers on the way there, and finishing with an apple strudel as reward at the end.
Barbara

A canyon walk in northern Spain

The Ruta del Cares in Spain’s Picos de Europa is the most incredible hike my daughter and I have ever undertaken. The first 45 minutes from Poncebos take you steeply uphill into the canyon, past abandoned shacks and along spectacular, well-trodden tracks, which plateau out. As a vertigo sufferer myself, I found the track is always just wide enough. The canyon narrows and the path takes you through a series of tunnels before reaching the idyllic hamlet, Caín, and waterfalls where you can dip your feet. You can grab a drink and snacks before returning back to Poncebos.
Joe

Bathing and beauty in Germany’s Black Forest

Hike through the beautiful Black Forest from Kniebis to Baiersbronn (about 7 miles). Take the bus from Freudenstadt to Kniebis, then follow trails via the stunning Ellbachseeblick viewpoint and Sankenbach waterfall before descending into Baiersbronn. After the hike, enjoy an outdoor swim at Baiersbronn’s lido or relax with a meal in town, before taking the train back to Freudenstadt. Public transport is included with the Konus card if staying in Freudenstadt (or other participating Black Forest locations).
George

Family-friendly highs in Switzerland

Last year, my family and I took the cable car up Männlichen, in Switzerland and walked the Panoramaweg at its top. At 3 miles to Kleine Scheidegg, where you can take a train down, this is manageable for little legs and gives glorious views of the Eiger and the Bernese Oberland. Wild and unspoiled it is not, but it boasts the most incredible alpine playground, and if you stop in Wengen on your way up, there is a trail of marble runs that enchanted my children for hours.
Frances

Watching dolphins in the Algarve, Portugal

My most memorable European hike was the coastal path from Ponta da Piedade to Praia da Luz in Portugal’s Algarve. While most visitors crowd the famous beaches, the 7-mile trail threads between honey-coloured cliffs, hidden coves and wildflowers, with Atlantic views almost every step of the way. My tip is to start at sunrise and pack a lightweight breakfast. The early light turns the limestone cliffs gold, the temperature is perfect for walking, and you’ll often have long stretches of path entirely to yourself. We stopped on a clifftop ledge to watch dolphins offshore – a simple moment that made the whole day unforgettable.
Steven

Winning tip: cliffside views of Lake Garda, Italy

The highlight of our recent holiday was the stunning 6-mile walk along the Ponale Path, stretching from Riva at the top of Lake Garda to the Ledro valley. This beautiful cliffside trail takes you through old tunnels carved into the rock and treats you to the most spectacular views of the lake below. Along the route, we encountered lush green fields, picturesque little farmhouses nestled among vineyards and even a cascading waterfall. To top it all off, we enjoyed a refreshing pint and lasagne in the sunny beer garden at Bar sul Ponale before beginning the walk back.
Bev

The fluorescent green gaiters seemed a ridiculous suggestion, but prove a godsend as we plod across the sand. “I bet you’re glad I told you to get a pair of these bad boys now, aren’t you?” my friend Luke jokes. We’re marching across a wide, crescent-shaped, honeyed beach. The sun is high in the sky and slivers of light flicker through a thick sea fog, as 6ft waves crash and fizz, their white foam licking the towering limestone cliffs.

I’m in Portugal, in the west Algarve, with two friends, hiking part of the Rota Vicentina, or Fishermen’s Trail, a 140-mile (226km) trek that runs from Lagos to São Torpes in Alentejo. Traversing cliffs that lead to wild, remote beaches like this one is part of the trail’s calling card. As the name suggests, it was originally carved out by fishers to reach otherwise inaccessible fishing spots along the Atlantic Ocean. Now it’s part of the Rota Vicentina, a hiking and cycling route spanning 466 miles across Portugal.

Already, this corner of the Algarve feels a far cry from downtown Lagos, where we’d been woken up the night before by noisy tourists after one too many Super Bocks. Our official starting point is 25 minutes away in Salema – a fishing village set within the Vicentine Coast natural park.

The sedate seaside haven is perhaps how the rest of the Algarve was before mass tourism arrived in this part of the Iberian peninsula following the opening of Faro airport in the 1960s. More than 20 million tourists visited the Algarve last year, 5.7 million of them from the UK.

Visitors to Salema drift in and out like the tide, pottering along cobbled streets, past traditional blue-and-white fishers’ cottages, stopping to indulge in fresh seafood on the terraces of family-run restaurants overlooking the long, empty beach flanked by chalky cliffs.

Tempted to postpone the first day of hiking to idle away the hours, we instead polish off a load of pastéis de nata and a bica or two down at Pastelaria Solmar, then set off. For the first few miles, we wend along a relatively flat, clay-coloured coastal path, following the blue-and-green striped Fishermen’s Trail logo that should lead us to Sagres.

Keeping the sea to the left (we’re heading north), it’s easy to navigate. Magical, too, with views stretching as far as the eye can see, across an Atlantic Ocean glinting in the summer sun. Occasionally, we have to scramble up or down a steep, rocky embankment. But the rewards, a series of serene beaches that seem to get better with every mile, make it worthwhile. Given the remote location, these pretty coves attract only the hardiest beach-goers, and the odd naturist.

Over the day’s almost 12-mile hike, we hardly see another soul. So, when we arrive at Sagres, we’re ready for some human interaction. The seafaring town is where slave trader Henry the Navigator spent the final years of his life. Nowadays, Sagres is better known for its enviable surf breaks.

“I’m ready for a Sagres in Sagres,” Luke says, as we drop our bags and freshen up at Alojamento Mareta, a modest two-bed apartment that hovers on a cliffside with a blushing garden and sea views (about £78 per night). We mooch around looking for somewhere for dinner and a cold beer.

Sagres doesn’t have any sense of coherent organisation; its scattering of cafes, restaurants and bars appear to have been sketched out by bored teenagers when the city planners were on holiday. Instead of joining a growing gaggle of surfers waiting for live music to start at Three Little Birds, we order piri-piri chicken and a glug of local wine from the family-run Cafe Conchinha and retire to bed.

Waking early, we zip down to the empty Mareta beach for a meditation session led by another friend, James, before plunging into the icy sea. As if the morning isn’t already wholesome enough, we head to the Laundry Lounge – a boho, wooden-clad laundrette-cum-brunch spot – for a 90-minute yoga session and some breakfast before getting back on the road.

We make our way to Cabo de São Vicente, where a 19th-century lighthouse sits perilously on an isolated rocky headland whipped by the elements. Mainland Europe’s most southwesterly point was known as the “end of the world”. It’s not hard to understand why. There’s nothing but an endless melange of blue water and craggy cliffs bathed in a golden light. It’s little wonder that the Greeks and Romans believed it to be a sacred promontory.

Later, we cut inland across a pancake flat expanse of arid shrubland with only the odd purple thistle for colour. Then, after 12 miles or so, we arrive in Vila do Bispo, a dusty, eerily quiet town, like something from a spaghetti western. Low-rise, pastel-coloured houses seem worn by time and old dusty cars sit beneath purple wisteria on cobbled street corners.

Fish, hung out to dry on washing lines, flap around in the wind as we wander the streets looking for somewhere to eat. We stumble across Pisco, an unassuming restaurant with a cosy atmosphere – whitewashed walls hung with art and crammed with wine bottles – where the vegetarian menu has excellent Mediterranean dishes, sourdough pizzas and organic wines.

Charging back towards the coast the following morning, we arrive at perhaps the most picturesque part of the hike. On the cliffs above Praia da Pena Furada, a vast, windswept beach, we perch on the cliffside for a moment to admire tall sea stacks battered by waves, the wind whistling through them as gulls swoop like kites overhead. It feels more like Steinbeck’s California than the Algarve. But for the hissing of the sea, everything is silent.

We barely say a word to one another until we land at the impossibly long sandy beach of Bordeira near Carrapateira a few hours later. The atmosphere here couldn’t be more different. The beach is busy with Portuguese holidaymakers and surfers. It’s the perfect antidote to hiking fatigue, so we settle in for a well-deserved burger at the hillside beach bar Amadobar as low-fi rock drifts from the speakers and surfers paddle out to distant breakers.

Our digs for the night, which we make our way to after sunset, are about 20 minutes from the beach. Carrapateira Lodge (about £52 per night) sits in the centre of a small, charming whitewashed town with a scattering of restaurants, bars, cafes and surf shops. We dine alfresco on the cobbles just off the main plaza at O Pontal, getting to work on plates of tender octopus, roasted salt cod and beef entrecote to sustain ourselves for tomorrow’s final push.

When we arrive at Arrifana, our final destination the following afternoon, we’re beat. The parish town is settled on the hillside in the Aljezur municipality. Like Carrapateira, it’s popular with surfers. It feels closer to the Algarve most visitors know in some ways, but it’s still relatively low key. A single lane road helter-skelters down to another postcard-worthy beach, where there’s a sprinkling of bars and restaurants. Shattered, we round off the trip watching sunset at Café Restaurante Sol E Mar, a no-frills bar that spills out on to the headland overlooking the beach, which is busier than others we’ve passed but not as crowded as other Algarve hotspots I’ve visited. No rowdy Britons in sight – except us three.

Dalton Rushing was frustrated. He just chased a slider in the dirt — again. And this time, the game was on the line. The Dodgers were down to their last out. He was down to his last strike.

So he took a moment, took a breath, and looked to the Dodgers dugout.

The first person he spotted was Mookie Betts, who had just cut the Orioles’ lead to a run with a solo homer. Betts was locked in with Rushing, brimming with confidence, cheering him on.

“For a guy like that, a guy that’s lived in that moment, he’s succeeded in that moment, he’s failed in that moment, he knows what it feels like, it’s pretty special,” Rushing recounted.

Rushing’s eyes traveled along the railing, noting his teammates all on the top step, all relying on him.

He dug into the box, expecting the slider that Baltimore’s Ryan Helsley threw next — it was high, for a ball. Then Rushing got a fastball he could drive. And he did not miss.

The next moments in the Dodgers’ 6-5 walk-off win Friday were chaos.

Rushing lined a tying single into right field, giving Alex Call time to score from second. Call slid across the plate as the throw from Orioles right fielder Tyler O’Neill took for a long hop to catcher Samuel Basallo.

Basallo misjudged it, taking an unhurried shuffle up the line, before the ball glanced off his glove and rolled toward the Dodgers dugout.

Third base coach Dino Ebel waved home Ryan Ward, who scored standing up.

Manager Dave Roberts, who looked down at his card when the throw was in the air, was already thinking through extra innings when the crowd erupted again. He heard field coordinator Bob Geren shouting something like, “The run counts.”

The Dodgers (49-27) ran onto the field and swarmed Rushing, who had just reached second. They jumped and yelled as the Dodgers Stadium lights flashed around them.

“It was good to get Freddie [Freeman] a night off for being the guy in the middle for a change, you know?” Rushing said with a grin. “No, it’s a great feeling, and I think it honestly just feels great that we won that baseball game.”

For several innings, it looked like they wouldn’t.

Dalton Rushing celebrates after hitting a run-scoring single in the ninth to help lift the Dodgers to a 6-5 walk-off win over the Baltimore Orioles at Dodger Stadium.

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

The Dodgers had jumped out to an early 3-0 lead, on a two-run single from Max Muncy in the first inning and an RBI double from Andy Pages in the second. Then their scoring dried up.

Rushing was having as frustrating of a night as anyone, with a line out and three strikeouts.

His first strikeout was part of a brutal sequence. The Dodgers loaded the bases with no outs in the third. Then Ward, Rushing and Alex Freeland, all went down swinging.

Rushing struck out on a slider in the dirt. And Orioles starter Trey Gibson got him to bite on the same putaway pitch in the fifth.

Rushing’s reactions steadily grew more animated, on the field and in the dugout.

Mookie Betts celebrates as he runs the bases after hitting a solo home run in the ninth inning Friday against the Orioles.

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Alex Freeland signals safe after sliding past Baltimore catcher Samuel Basallo to score on a double by Andy Pages in the second inning Friday.

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

“He plays with a fire under his ass,” Freeland said. “He gets after it. He expects nothing but the best for himself day in and day out, and that comes with it.”

Said Roberts: “After he … vents, he does a good job of collecting himself to get back into the next play, the next at-bat, catching.”

On Friday, he was catching Roki Sasaki, who faced just one batter over the minimum through five innings. But during the third time through the order, the Orioles finally figured him out and hit back-to-back home runs.

With two outs and a runner on, Sasaki yanked a splitter to the inside edge of the strike zone to Gunnar Henderson, who lifted it over the wall in right field. Pete Alonso then homered to left-center field on an inside fastball about belt high to tie the score.

“I thought he threw the baseball really well,” Roberts said. “I liked the way he competed. The fastball command was good. He was fantastic tonight.”

The Orioles (35-42) pulled ahead against the Dodgers bullpen. Will Klein surrendered a seventh-inning single to Jackson that sent two baserunners, including one inherited from Dodgers left-hander Jack Dreyer, across the plate.

Kyle Hurt and Blake Treinen threw clean eighth and ninth innings.

Finally, in the bottom of the ninth, Betts ended the Dodgers’ scoring drought. Then Muncy — later replaced by the pinch-running Call — and Ward drew walks.

With two outs, Rushing stepped up to the plate, fell behind in the count 0-2 and reset.

“I look in the dugout, and all those guys care about is that next pitch, and the next pitch after that, and the next pitch after that,” Rushing said. “They just want you to win one pitch at a time.”

So, that’s what he did.

WHILE theme parks across the UK are opening back up for the summer, a popular attraction in Japan remains shut after two decades.

The once popular Wild West land closed its gates for the last time in 2007, remaining frozen in time ever since.

Located in Nikko, around two hours drive from Tokyo, Western Village was once home to a bustling arcade and entertainment park, designed to resemble the American Frontier.

However, the once-buzzing family establishment is now only visited by urban explorers.

The park first opened its doors in 1973 as a small attraction called Kinugawa Family Ranch, offering guests a range of outdoor activities including fishing and horse riding.

Just two years later, the site was rebranded as Western Village, attracting tourists from all over the world with its impressive recreating of a 19th Century frontier town.

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The attraction included an old-timey bank, barber shop, sheriff’s office and general store, as well as arcades and animatronic displays.

Live stunt shows also took place at the park, with actors reenacting gunfights between cowboys and outlaws.

There was also a train that took visitors around the park which was often subject to a staged robbery by the park’s resident outlaws.

In 1995, the park added a £20million replica of Mount Rushmore, which measured one-third of the real thing and was even carved into the landscape.

Despite the park’s initial success, it eventually began to lose out to larger, better located competitors such as Universal Studios Japan and Tokyo Disneyland.

In 2007, Western Village shut its doors for the last time, with many sections remaining untouched in the years since.

From arcade machines and eerie animatronics covered in dust to bottles still sitting on tables, the entire park has a creepy abandoned feel to it.

The park has remained a source of fascination for those visiting the area, particularly urban explorers.

According to the website Offbeat Japan, the replica Rushmore is still attracting visitors in 2026.

The outlet reported that tourists “have to come back to check it isn’t a hallucination”, adding that what remains of the park is “now being demolished little by little”.

LEE Andrews has shared wild new claims about his gunpoint arrest as he insisted it was the “most horrific place” he ever seen.

Katie Price’s husband claimed earlier this week that he had been “captured at gunpoint” and “slapped around” during his ordeal before his wife saved him.

Lee was released from Dubai’s notorious Al Awir prison on Friday and he has now shared a new account of what happened on social media.

The self-proclaimed businessman claimed: “I will say it one more time, the national guard who took me in the beginning, they had guns and they don’t register you as being arrested.

“They can just take you and hold you, which is what happened.

“Anywhere in the world you go to an airport, they have guns patrolling the boarder and they took me and not in the best way either.

“It wasn’t the best experience and from there they held me in state security, so I was transfered to a jail, which was the worst f***ing horrendous place I’ve ever seen and then into a mainstream.”

Earlier today, Lee hit out at Good Morning Britain host Susanna Reid for mocking him on yesterday’s show.

Calling for her to be sacked after she “rolled her eyes” at him live on air, Lee has even vowed to sit down with the host on live TV.

Taking to Instagram, Lee hit back as he said: “What is Susanna Reid rolling her eyes at?

“I’m not gonna comment on that, because obviously I’ll get onto the sofa with Katie at some point and we’ll thrash it out.

“And she can be as forthcoming as she likes.”

He then claimed Susanna is “prejudging” him unfairly.

“But to actually judge me without any evidence, calling me a conman, she should lose her job for that,” he fumed, calling for her axe from the breakfast programme.

Lee continued to say that she had “no solid evidence other than an ex coming forward”.

After being banged up and “missing” for seven weeks, Lee was released from Dubai’s notorious Al Awir prison on Friday.

Katie quickly jetted back to Dubai from the UK over the weekend to see her other half and they shared an emotional reunion on Sunday evening.

Upon his return to social media, Lee claimed he was “captured at gunpoint” before being accused of spying.

Despite Lee’s espionage claims, it was widely speculated that he was actually locked up for fraud.

It’s just past midday and I appear to be inside a rain cloud. Soaked to the skin, my walking boots squelching through tufts of grass and black bog mud, I can hear hundreds of streams rolling off this wide mid-Wales peak, each vying to be the fastest. I’ve hiked around more than 8 miles (13km) of Hafren Forest trails to the top of Mount Pumlumon Fawr (Plynlimon), to reach a wooden post carved with the words Source of the Severn. And I’m here, alone, because I’m hoping to meet a river goddess.

It’s perhaps not as strange as it first sounds. Starting about 150 years ago, the folklorist John Rhys travelled across Wales to archive as many local myths as possible, and among them was the very tale that brought me to this peak: the story of the birth of the River Severn, in which three sisters – Hafren (Severn), Rheidolyn (Rheidol) and Gwy (Wye) – each choose their own route to the sea. My trip to the river’s source was itself a moment of mythically inspired travel, something that has been common practice in the British Isles for as long as we’ve told stories, not least as a means of passing them on.

Folklore is experiencing a revival in Britain, whether it’s in wild tales told around festival campfires or in the rise of Mabinogion-inspired romantasy fiction. I was here on my own adventure, travelling around the islands to rediscover our lost goddess myths and what they mean for modern womanhood, for my new book, No Fair Maidens. My journey took me from Somerset to Skye, from Gower to Eryri, and was less about archaeological sightseeing and more a journey into the landscape and waterways themselves: the river sources, lakesides, spring wells and seashores that feature so vividly in old lore.

Water, it seems, is often the site of powerful women and magical happenings. In Roman and perhaps pre-Roman times, Britannia was a network of waterways represented by goddesses, from Sulis’ hot spring in Bath to Coventina’s well near Carrawburgh on Hadrian’s Wall. For centuries, wells and river sources have been places of pilgrimage for people to bring their wishes, throwing in stones and coins and asking for help from forces unseen. They are also places where magic can sometimes cross over. In local Welsh myth, the Ffynone waterfall is regarded as a portal to the mystical Otherworld, where the goddess Rhiannon lived before riding her white horse into the real world to choose a husband. Up the road at Llyn y Fan Fach in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), the mountain lake is known as the home of a beautiful nymph who agrees to marry a mere mortal, only to return to the waters, taking her large dowry with her, when he breaks their covenant.

The shores are also home to some of our most renowned female fighters. On the Isle of Skye, in the dark ruins of Dunscaith Castle on the edge of Loch Eishort, we meet Scáthach: a fearsome Scottish warrioress from eighth-century Irish mythology, who was tasked with training Celtic princes to become warriors. She was said to be invincible, wielding supreme combat skills and a giant spiked spear, leading many a man to seek out her tutelage. Today, it is easy to picture her on the battlements, battered by wind and rain, wearily awaiting the next wannabe hero.

Indeed, as I travel across the island, powerful women weave through our folklore so readily that they feel like a source code, even though their stories are mostly unmarked in the landscapes from which they come. In England on the River Stour, I hear the 12th-century legend of Gwendoline, who was said to have raised an army in Cornwall and seized the crown from her cheating husband’s dead hands, making her the mythic first queen of a peaceful, united England. Further down the road as I climb Glastonbury Tor, it’s the matriarchal myth of Avalon that’s calling me, the tale of a magical island of sisters bound by the powers of shapeshifting, healing and prophecy. It’s wild to imagine that Britain might once have been home to that benevolent circle of women.

It seems as if, across Britain, the landscape is brought to life through story. As I discuss in my book, exploring the island through the lens of myth and folklore invites us to see Britain in a different light; as a place full of wonder, where wild and strange things are possible. And with more of us investigating how to build a stronger, healthier connection with the natural world, folklore and myth can create a kind of bridge, inviting us to see waterways less as “resources” and more as living beings with their own stories and a curious will of their own. This is Britain, but not as you know it; and perhaps by travelling through the landscape with myths as our guides, we might find new inspiration too.

Back on Mount Plynlimon, I was never quite sure how to go about meeting a river goddess, lacking the rituals and training our ancestors might once have known. But perhaps it was enough simply to know her story, so I could appreciate the land a little better. Whenever I see a river now, I can’t help saying hello, still in awe of how vast she has become, and how quickly she grew from nothing.

Kim Willis is the author of No Fair Maidens: A Wild Journey with the Lost Goddesses of Britain (Doubleday, £20). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.

During a trip to the beautiful desert city of Palm Springs in California, home to Golden Age Hollywood stars, I found myself with a Guinness World Record after a jolly great time

If someone told me earlier this year I’d have a Guinness World Record to my name, I would have thought they were joking. But here I am, with the notorious title following a trip to the United States.

You’re probably wondering what on earth I did to secure a Guinness World Record, and no, it wasn’t some ludicrous challenge. Instead, all I needed was a blond wig, red lipstick, and a white dress.

I was in the beautiful desert resort city of Greater Palm Springs, known for its Hollywood glamour, mid-century modern architecture and natural hot springs, when this all took place. The Southern California oasis, nestled in the Coachella Valley, was once home to Golden Age Hollywood stars, including Frank Sinatra and Elvis Presley, but I was there for Marilyn Monroe.

The iconic American actress and model became a global sensation during the 1950s and early 1960s, and was often known for her persona as the ‘blonde bombshell’. She tragically died at the tender age of 36 in 1962, but spent much of her adult life in Palm Springs and is known to have spent time in a trendy bungalow known as the Marilyn Monroe Doll House, which I passed by during my trip, still with its signature pink letter box on the front yard.

This year, on 1 June, marked what would have been Marilyn Monroe’s 100th birthday, and to mark the occasion, Greater Palm Springs hosted a celebration and mega event to secure a new Guinness World Record. And I was lucky enough to be there and take part.

The idea was to gather as many Marilyn Monroe lookalikes as possible in one place for a Guinness World Record attempt. The previous record was 254 in 2020, so there were high hopes that Palm Springs, the home of Hollywood, would surpass it.

I had no idea what to expect, but after signing up for the event and securing my iconic Marilyn Monroe outfit of a styled blond wig, white dress and red lipstick, I was ready to take part. So on Saturday, 30 May, the day before her birthday, I dressed up as the glamorous star and joined my fellow doppelgangers around the Forever Marilyn statue in Downtown Palm Springs, to secure a Guinness World Record.

Remarkably, there were a whopping 1,037 Marilyn Monroe lookalikes in attendance, and it was incredible to be around so many people celebrating the icon. Everyone went all out with their outfits, accessorising with pearls, diamonds, sparkly heels, fans and feather boas.

To secure the Guinness World Record, all attendees had to be dressed in the same iconic white halter dress, platinum wig and red lipstick, and everyone absolutely was. So after gathering in our hundreds, singing happy birthday to Marilyn Monroe, and being thoroughly counted, we successfully obtained a new Guinness World Record.

“People are on a high that they get to participate in this”, Palm Springs mayor Ron deHarte told me. “It’s not unusual to have something flashy going on in Palm Springs, but this is something different.”

The Pride organisation was connected to the event, as Ron noted, “Marilyn Monroe had a voice, and she used it.” And I could feel the celebrations, the love, kindness, acceptance, and overall pride of this city as I put on my best Marilyn Monroe impersonation and joined the joyful, spirited community of Palm Springs for a Guinness World Record.

It was certainly an honour to take part in such an event, and one I won’t forget in a hurry. After all, there are only 1,037 of us across the globe who can say we broke a record by dressing up as Marilyn Monroe in the desert.

For more information on the beloved Hollywood destination, or to plan your trip, go to the Visit Greater Palm Springs website.

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The children were asleep in the little tent behind us, wrapped in two sleeping bags, each with an extra helping of wool blankets. Earlier, all I could see were their little faces half-lit by torchlight as I read them a book about rivers to the sound of rain on canvas. They fell asleep as fast and thick as the fog pooling in the valley below.

My partner and I sat outside, huddled together under a waterproof coat, cheek to cheek, perched on our daughters’ foam swim vests because the ground was saturated. We were laughing. As parents, absurdity and beauty make for familiar bedfellows.

Just a few days earlier, it had seemed impossible we would go anywhere; every affordable campsite, yurt and cottage was booked up for the Easter holidays. Then I remembered how last year, tagging along with the Right to Roam crew, I ended up sleeping on the floor of the Beeches, a former Quaker residential community house in the village of Bamford, on the edge of Derbyshire’s upper Derwent valley. Its new stewards had amazing plans – a space for community health, social justice and ecological regeneration, all in collaboration with local people and grassroots groups.

I pinged them an email – “Can we stay on your land for one night?” – and, feeling inspired, contacted a few other initiatives, too.

We were in luck. Our hosts, Vanessa and Max, welcomed us into the Beeches, which was just as beautiful as I remembered. At the end of a wildflower path, past allotments and woodland, are two outbuildings: sheds on the outside, cosy cabins on the inside. “A family of deer lives here,” Vanessa said to my daughters, five and three, holding one hand each.

By the firepit, we unloaded still-hot pizzas, still-cold beers and marshmallows for roasting. As the dark set in, the children set the ends of sticks on fire, drawing shapes in the air.

In our cabin, candles, fairy lights and a wood-burning stove cast flickering shadows. The sofa beds were pushed together to make one giant bed. As I told the kids a story beneath the covers, I felt I was in a story myself.

By morning, we were a tangle of limbs. Light filtered through egg-patterned curtains. A train rumbled past and the sound summoned adventure. I opened the doors to birdsong while my partner prepared instant coffee and porridge. “I wish today would never end, Mama,” said my eldest.

We ate lunch at the nearby Anglers Rest, Bamford’s community-owned pub, with a cafe and post office in the same building. I dropped my sacred local texts, Wild Swimming Walks Peak District and The Upper Derwent: 10,000 Years in a Peak District Valley by Bill Bevan, on to the table. There was so much to explore – reservoir, ruin, gritstone edge – but the sun was calling.

The River Derwent was just down the road, its banks dotted with bluebells, cow parsley, clover and stitchwort. A mandarin duck watched from a patch of brambles as we quickly changed into our swimming costumes. Wading in upstream from the stepping stones at Bamford Mill, I was instantly ecstatic, while the children sat in the shallows, covering themselves in river mud.

That evening, we followed a winding road up into the hills above Ladybower reservoir. Lockerbrook Farm Outdoor Centre is a hill farm now run as a residential education centre by Woodcraft Folk, a national youth charity promoting education for social change. “We will make an exception,” they explained in their email, “because the camping field is empty.” They don’t usually rent camping pitches to individuals who are not on their courses, but have a cottage on the site available for rentals.

The friendly warden showed us around: field, sink, toilet, the most stupendous view of the high moorlands and deep cut of Derwent valley. The field was on an incline and, while we set up camp, the children bickered over which molehill was theirs. A group of cyclists passed above: “You’re very brave!” shouted one, and I thought he meant the children until my partner pointed out the dark clouds bruising the horizon.

“I’m hungry, Mama!” I went to light the camp stove. It didn’t work. Drizzle turned to rain. The packet of macaroni cheese said it would be edible with cold water. It wasn’t. I ran to beg the warden for boiled water and found a scene of pure bliss – young people cooking together in a warm cottage. One hot flask, two pots of apology-porridge and countless-kisses later, the children were asleep.

And so, this is how my partner and I found ourselves pressed together outside the tent in the dark, in the rain. “Next time we must bring a waterproof blanket to sit on,” he said.

“And an umbrella,” I said.

“And test the stove,” he laughed. “And then maybe we’ll be ready for a wild camp!”

We were giggling, shushing one another, when a female tawny owl screeched, quickly answered by the male, echoing from what seemed to be all the trees: ke-wick hoo-hoo, ke-wick hoo-hoo.

The next morning, we packed up early and drove down to Fairholmes car park, where the Refreshment Kiosk was waiting with hot drinks and pasties. From here, there’s a family-friendly trail featuring carved wooden creatures on the shores of Ladybower reservoir. I told the children about the lost villages beneath its waters. They were already there, one foot always in the imaginary.

We smelt of mildew, wildflower, woodsmoke, river water and sweat. Dandelion seeds were caught in my daughter’s curls. I blew the wishes free.

The Beeches has cabins sleeping four from £125 a night; camping £10pp per night. Lockerbrook Farm is predominantly for large groups, but the Warden’s Cottage sleeps six from £33pp per night. The weekend is accessible from Bamford train station for those who love hiking: the Beeches is a 15-minute walk; pub and wild swimming 20 minutes; Fairholmes is two hours; and Lockerbrook Farm a further 30-minute uphill hike from there.

The lake boasts a sandy shoreline and designated wild swimming areas, making it a brilliant spot for a summer day out — just remember to arrive early as it gets very busy

A stunning wild swimming spot nestled amid vibrant heathland offers the perfect escape for a refreshing dip.

Frensham Great Pond is a National Trust-managed lake boasting a genuine sandy beach, allowing visitors to relax on the shore after a bracing swim — all without being anywhere near the coast.

Located a few miles south of Farnham and roughly ten miles west of Godalming in Surrey, Frensham Great Pond features two designated swimming zones marked out by buoys, alongside an on-site café and toilet facilities, making it an ideal destination for a full day out.

The pond was first established in the 13th century to provide fish for the Bishop of Winchester and his entourage during visits to Farnham Castle. Nowadays, the pond and its surroundings serve as a haven for wildlife. Frensham holds international significance due to the array of rare and threatened species that flourish on the heath, earning it recognition as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Special Protection Area and a Special Area of Conservation.

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The heathland encircling the pond presents a striking tapestry of purple heathers, vibrant yellow gorse and lush green bracken.

“Are you someone who delights in basking under the sun at the beach? It may come as a surprise that even in landlocked Surrey, a beach can be found. Frensham Great Pond boasts a sandy shoreline, offering a unique beach experience. While it may not offer the expansive ocean vistas typically associated with beaches, it does provide a splendid view across the lake,” writes Swim Guard.

There are a few things to bear in mind if you’re planning a visit to Frensham Great Pond. It draws enormous crowds during fine weather, with the car park typically full by 10am. Get there early to avoid disappointment, Waverley Borough Council warns, urging visitors to steer clear on scorching days as “the site will be too crowded.”

Dogs are prohibited on both the beach and barrow areas, and BBQs and bonfires are strictly banned.

If that’s given you second thoughts, don’t worry. Surrey has no shortage of other stunning spots offering fantastic wild swimming opportunities. Including:

• Buckland Park Lake, managed by the Surrey Hills Adventure Company, is spring-fed and open year-round. Swimmers do a 400-metre loop around the lake with views of white cliffs and wildlife, with a max depth of 3 metres and a gradual entry point on one side.
• Godstone Divers Cove is a picturesque 7.3-acre reservoir, once a sand extraction site, now a popular managed wild swimming venue. Post-swim, you can even get artisan pizzas on selected sessions.
• The River Mole is a sleepy tributary of the Thames winds through the leafy Surrey countryside and is considered one of England’s most biodiverse rivers, home to barbel, trout, lamprey and eel.

If you’re planning a dip during the warm weather, it’s vital to take the proper precautions. During the recent mini-heatwave, six people have tragically lost their lives in UK waters. On Wednesday, police confirmed that a body discovered during the search for a 12-year-old boy who went missing while swimming in a river in Lancashire is that of the child.

Limestone stretches on all sides like an inland ocean – appropriately enough, since the shimmering white rock has its ancient origins in coral, shells and the skeletons of sea creatures. We advance carefully, stepping on clints (blocks of rock) and avoiding grykes (the deep fissures between them). It’s a warm, dry day and, even if it were not, limestone drains better than most types of terrain. For a long while, it’s broad, flat and hallucinatory and then, suddenly, the rocky sea collapses like a waterfall and we’re at the edge of a huge fault. The words Yorkshire Dales might evoke pretty villages and walled-in sheep fields, but this landscape is raw and wild, the kind of natural realm WH Auden celebrated in his poem In Praise of Limestone, and the kind that prompts geological speculation and inward ruminations. To cap it all, there are just three of us and nothing much and no one else all the way to the far horizons.

It’s my first decent yomp of the spring. I’ve come here with two walking pals on the egregiously under-promoted direct train that connects Rochdale and Manchester with the national park and Yorkshire’s Three Peaks. While the Leeds-Settle-Carlisle service – which recently celebrated its 150th birthday – is deservedly famous, the Yorkshire Dales Explorer, which started in June 2024, is much less celebrated. It’s also far less frequent. Trains travel between Leeds and Settle, continuing to Carlisle or Morecambe, 20 times a day Monday to Saturday, 11 times on Sundays. Trains between Manchester Victoria and Settle run on Saturdays only and just once in the morning each way and once in the late afternoon.

We alight at Horton-in-Ribblesdale, the penultimate station before the terminus at Ribblehead, where rises the magnificent viaduct. Both stops are great for walkers, but ours takes us immediately into the heart of the Three Peaks. Pen-y-ghent is behind us as we leave the station, Ingleborough ahead and, to the north, on our far right, is Whernside. All have summits of about 700 metres and if you’re super fit, you can do them in one day – even between the two train services if you want a challenge. The men’s running record is 2hrs 46mins 3secs, set by Andy Peace, of Bingley Harriers, in 1996. Victoria Wilkinson, from the same club, set the women’s record, 3hrs 9mins 19secs, in 2017. It’s more than 23 miles (37km), and trained, fit walkers can manage it in 8-10 hours.

Ours is a less daunting mission: walking on a plateau between the peaks down to Settle, for a pub lunch. It’s still an adventure in the sense that there are very few marked footpaths on the OS app (OL2 is the Ordnance Survey printed map), but this is open access land and so you find your own route. We use cairns to navigate, climbing from the station platform at about 250 metres to the Moughton trig point at 427 metres, where we get a sweeping view of the Yorkshire Three Peaks and Bowland Fells to our south and west, and a chance for a cuppa. I hear my first skylarks of the season, but the air is also filled with the unmistakeable gurgling croak of ravens. Shake holes break up the limestone pavement and you have to be alert to these sudden depressions, but the only significant obstacle is getting down the scars, where the elevation suddenly drops tens of feet. At Long Scar we pause to plot a path and to take in the vertical edge, and in the middle distance, the Norber Erratics – 100-plus boulders transported long ago by glaciers and abandoned wantonly above the village of Austwick.

But the edge is enthralling. You can imagine this formation as an underwater cliff, aeons ago, though glaciation, weather and uplift have played their part in creating the static drama. It could be a rift in the Patagonian steppe or a Yorkshire-tinted section of Arizona’s Monument Valley. We sight an obelisk and head for that and soon find ourselves at the edge of another drop, Moughton Scar, where we descend again, passing a massive quarry; here the material hewed out of the strata is a tough gritstone called greywacke, the colour of cement.

It’s green and agricultural the rest of the way, and while we’re hitting the 10-mile stage of the walk, it’s fine to have wobbly legs now we’re off the tricky pavement. Wild garlic is bursting through, newborn lambs are dozing, and daffodils are sprouting around the tiny hamlet of Feizor, where there’s a teashop that used to be for walkers but now seems to pull in mainly car tourists.

We plough on, over two small rises, and finally on to the banks of the Ribble, which begins its long, meandering journey close to where we began. Settle is full of bikers, shoppers and sightseers, but there are also pints and late lunches in the pubs. We’re contented and have earned our pies. We can either get the late train back or hop on the number 11 minibus to Clitheroe. Those travelling from farther afield have the backup option of later trains to Leeds or Lancaster.

Ours was an ideal first long walk if you’re getting back into exercise after the wet winter. If you want to use the train to attempt the Three Peaks, I’d recommend splitting up the hikes over a weekend. Horton to Pen-y-ghent and then on to Ribblehead, 10 miles all told, is a nice day’s jaunt. You can do Whernside and Ingleborough on the following day, covering a similar distance, ending back at Horton. There’s a choice of campsites and a pub with rooms – the Station Inn – at Ribblehead.

The three hills have different qualities. Pen-y-ghent is a proper big lump, with a dramatically steep southern face that requires a short scramble. Ingleborough is a similar shape, but more haughty and spread out, almost mesa-like in its flat-topped appearance. Whernside is a long-elevated whale-back ridge, running north to south.

I can see the Three Peaks from my kitchen window, 22 miles away as the raven flies. The day before our hike, it had rained at home. But it had snowed on the top of the peaks, making them look out of place. They bear the full brunt of cold westerlies and are higher than anything nearby, and consequently create a micro-season of their own. Bear that in mind if you’re aiming to bag them on your next weekend outing.

On a January morning in 1938, Pitmiddle’s last resident, James Gillies, closed the door to his cottage for the final time and walked away through the snow. High on the south-facing slopes of the Sidlaw Hills in Perthshire, the village is now little more than a jumble of half-ruined walls gradually being reclaimed by the land.

My children pick around the overgrown stones like explorers discovering a lost civilisation, before scampering back through the gate and over the grass to our cabin in a neighbouring field. Called the Pitmiddle Hut, it’s the latest addition to Guardswell Farm, which spans 81 hectares (200 acres) of countryside halfway between Perth and Dundee (an hour and a half from Glasgow or Edinburgh). “People gradually moved away from Pitmiddle’s way of life,” says Anna Lamotte, who runs Guardswell with her husband, Digby Legge, often aided by their four-year-old daughter and a smiley 10-month-old in a vintage pram. “Villagers each had a pendicle, the small area they could farm, a system of outfields, infields and ‘kailyards’ – a Scots word for a kitchen garden.” Anna and Digby grew up on farms and small-holdings nearby, and today they rear cattle, sheep, goats and chickens and tend to the vegetable gardens, alongside welcoming guests to stay.

The Pitmiddle Hut sits in the old village’s pendicle field and the slim volume Pitmiddle Village and Elcho Nunnery in our cabin inspired the names of Guardswell’s huts: the Pendicle with its wildflower roof, the Infield with a stargazing window above the bed and shepherd’s hut the Kailyard. They can be rented alongside two cottages and a large farmhouse, all clustered around the Steading, once a dilapidated barn that is now a smart events space for weddings, craft and cuisine classes including cheese-making, and a popular monthly market. It’s also home to a small shop (stocked with the farm’s meat, eggs and Diggers cider), smart washrooms and a cosy room filled with games and wellies.

All the existing cabins were made for two, but as Anna and Digby’s family grew, and couples who married at Guardswell returned with first a dog then a baby, a bigger hideout made sense. The Pitmiddle Hut is a 10-minute stomp uphill and has a mezzanine bed up above the kitchen for grownups and a second bedroom for children to pile into the set of bunks and a double bed. The two are linked by a central indoor-outdoor space, with sliding doors for sunnier days. It’s the end of March when we stay, and the thick blankets (made with wool from Digby’s parents’ farm) and douglas fir planks lining the cabin give it a deep cosiness.

As a somewhat reluctant camper in a tent-loving family, it’s an ideal balance. We build fires in the Esse Bakeheart stove to cook dinner and keep the wool-insulated cabin toasty (there’ll soon be an outside kitchen and a firepit for toasting marshmallows too). My son dashes in and out fetching ingredients from the giant coolbox on the deck. The hut is off-grid, but uses solar-power for lights and the single induction hob. There’s a proper loo, but it’s a walk down to the Steading in the morning for a shower. It quickly becomes our favourite part of the day, saying good morning to fluffy Shetland cows, dinky Hebridean sheep, donkeys Ollie and Hugo, and cheeky pygmy goat Jimmy, who once escaped his pen and crashed a wedding. It feels as though we have the farm to ourselves.

There’s no wifi, no TV and, on my phone at least, blissfully little phone signal. Instead, a basket beside the kindling is filled with Uno, playing cards, drawing pencils and a watercolour set. My daughter washes a page with streaks of blue sky and green fields that are framed by the hut’s huge picture window, before taking a nature scavenger hunt sheet around the farm, checking off pine cones and primroses.

It would be easy to simply roam here for a couple of days, foraging for wild garlic, helping feed the animals and exploring the Big Wood at the bottom of the farm, counting the 198 steps cut into the hillside among the trees. But with all of Perthshire on the other side of the Sidlaws and Fife across the River Tay there’s plenty to get stuck into, from sandy beaches at East Neuk to Highlands hills just beyond the foodie town of Dunkeld, where the Taybank pub and Aran Bakery make a delicious detour. We swerve the Munros and instead stride out on the nearby Scone circular, starting at Old Scone Church, rebuilt stone by stone in 1805 when the village moved a couple of miles east from its original site next to Scone Palace, and climbing through gorse-thick moorland to MacDuff’s Monument and the Lynedoch Obelisk with their sweeping views to Perth beyond.

We get back to the farm just as some wet weather blows in and hole up in the boat-turned-bothy called Girl Linda’s cabin at the top of a field. Scooping up a bottle of Diggers cider and apple juice from the hut, we run for it, the kids screaming into the wind. We light candles and the tiniest wood-burning stove – the valley below now so lost in mist that it feels like the River Tay might rise up and sweep us out to sea. We play Monopoly Deal as the rain whips against the portholes, before rousing a sing-song with the boat’s motley crew of instruments – bongos, guitar, glockenspiel and a giant metal triangle. “Let it go, let it go, I am one with the wind and sky …” My daughter’s favourite, suddenly apt.

We wake on the final morning to milk-glass skies and the rhythmic whirl of two woodpeckers in the trees as the sun rises through a fringe of woodland below us. There are recorded Guardswell morning meditations to start the day, a gentle prompt to pause. But stillness is low on my children’s agenda, so we throw on boots and fleeces over pyjamas and head for the swings on the hill above the hut. Pitmiddle’s simple way of life might not have survived against the advances of the modern world, but for a few days its slower rhythm feels within reach.

Accommodation was provided by Guardswell Farm. The Pitmiddle Hut sleeps six (two adults and up to four children) from £220 a night (two-night minimum), guardswell.co.uk

Brian Lindstrom, a filmmaker whose documentaries shined a light on society’s underdogs and inspired social change, has died. He was 65.

Lindstrom’s wife, author Cheryl Strayed, confirmed the news on Instagram Friday.

“Brian Lindstrom died this morning the way he lived — with gentleness and courage, grace and gratitude for his beautiful life,” she wrote. “Our children, Carver and Bobbi, and I held him as he took his last breath and we will hold him forever in our hearts. The only thing more immense than our sorrow that Progressive Supranuclear Palsy took our beloved Brian from us is the endless love we have for him.”

According to the National Institute of Neurological Disorders and Stroke, PSP is caused by damage to nerve cells in areas of the brain that control thinking and body movements. The rare neurological disease progresses rapidly.

Strayed, who penned the bestselling memoir “Wild,” which was later adapted for the big screen and starred Reese Witherspoon, announced just weeks ago that Lindstrom had been diagnosed “with a serious, fatal illness.”

Lindstrom was born Feb. 12, 1961. The son of a bartender and a liquor salesman, he was raised in Portland, Ore. — which he and his family still called home.

He was the first member of his family to attend college, which he paid for by taking out student loans, landing work-study jobs and working summers in a salmon cannery in Cordova, Alaska. During a 2013 TEDx Talk, Lindstrom said that after he’d exhausted all the video production classes at Portland’s Lewis & Clark College, his professor Stuart Kaplan gave him a gift certificate to a class at the Northwest Film Center. There, Lindstrom made a short film about his grandpa that landed him a spot in the MFA program at Columbia University.

It was a train trip with his grandpa that inspired Lindstrom to tackle challenging topics with a lens that restored dignity to his subjects. His grandpa was a binge-drinker, and on day three of the trip, he woke up with a hangover and was missing his dentures. Lindstrom, only 5 at the time, noticed the way other passengers treated him and his grandpa differently.

“I think what my films are about is that search for my grandfather’s dentures, the humanizing narrative that bridges the gap between us and them and arrives at we,” he said.

Lindstrom said he returned to Portland after film school and “did several projects with the Northwest Film Center that had me putting a camera in the hands of kids on probation, homeless teens, newly recovering addicts, hard-hit people who had hard-hitting stories to share.”

“Those projects taught me so much about the transformative power of art, and they gave me permission I felt in my personal films to ask people if I might follow them, so that an audience could better understand what they were going through, and by extension, better understand themselves,” he said.

Lindstrom’s 2007 award-winning cinéma-vérité-style film, “Finding Normal,” followed long-term drug addicts as they left prison or detox and tried to rebuild their lives with the help of a recovery mentor.

“What I’m most proud about is that ‘Finding Normal’ is the only film to ever be shown to inmates in solitary confinement at Oregon State Penitentiary, and not, I might add, as a punishment,” Lindstrom said.

In 2013, he released “Alien Boy: The Life and Death of James Chasse,” a documentary that illuminated the life of a man who grappled with schizophrenia and examined his death, which happened in police custody. Discussing the film with LA Progressive in 2018, Lindstrom said that he doesn’t make films for audiences.

“I make them for the people in the film. It is my small way of honoring them,” he told the outlet. “That doesn’t mean I don’t delve into dark areas or that I ignore that person’s struggles. I’m much more concerned with trying to achieve an honest depiction of that person’s life than I am with any potential audience reaction.”

Lindstrom’s work aimed to inspire empathy and humanize those suffering in the margins of society, but it also catalyzed policy change. His acclaimed 2015 documentary, “Mothering Inside,” followed participants in the Family Preservation Project (FPP), an initiative helping incarnated moms establish and maintain bonds with their children.

Midway through filming the documentary, the Oregon Department of Corrections announced it planned to nix funding for the FPP. Lindstrom hosted early screenings of the film, which inspired grassroots advocacy that reached then-Gov. Kate Brown, who subsequently signed legislation that restored funding. The film’s release also helped make Oregon the first state in the U.S. to pass a bill of rights for children of incarcerated parents.

Partnering with Strayed, Lindstrom made the documentary short, “I Am Not Untouchable. I Just Have My Period,” for the New York Times in 2019. The film highlighted the experience of teen girls in Surkhet, Nepal, and the menstrual stigma they faced. Most recently, the filmmaker released, “Lost Angel: The Genius of Judee Sill,” which examined the folk-rock singer’s life from her traumatic childhood and drug-addled adolescence through her rise in the Laurel Canyon music scene and untimely death.

Lindstrom, discussing “Judee Sill” and his style as a filmmaker, told Oregon ArtsWatch, “It’s the chance to kind of focus on the question: What does it mean to be human? The person that the film is about, what can they teach us, what can we learn from them? What can they learn from themselves?”

In 2017, Lindstrom received the Civil Liberties Award from the American Civil Liberties Union of Oregon for his work advancing civil rights and liberties. That same year, he received the Distinguished Alumni Award from Lewis & Clark College.

In Strayed’s post announcing Lindstrom’s death, she described their more than 30-year partnership as a stroke of “tremendous luck.”

“We loved each other and our kids with deep devotion and true delight. He was a stellar husband. He was the most magnificent dad. He was a man whose every word and deed was driven by kindness, compassion, and generosity,” she wrote. “He saw the goodness in everyone. He believed that we are all sacred and redeemable.

“His work as a documentary filmmaker was dedicated to telling stories of people who, as he put it, ‘society puts an X through.’ He erased that X with his camera and his astonishing heart.”

Strayed’s memoir — which followed her as she hiked 1,100 miles along the Pacific Crest Trail in the wake of her mother’s death, a battle with drug addiction and divorce from her first husband — concludes with a happy ending. She finished the months-long hike and sat on a white bench near the Bridge of the Gods, a stone’s throw from the spot where, she writes, she’d marry Lindstrom four years later.

“His greatest legacy is Carver and Bobbi, who embody everything good and true about their father. Their extraordinary grace, courage, and fortitude during this harrowing time was unfaltering and grounded in the undying love Brian poured into them every day of their lives,” she wrote. “We do not know how we will live without him. We’re utterly bereft. We can only walk this dark path and search for the beauty Brian knew was there. It will be his eternal light that guides us.”

AKON and Ne-Yo have been the soundtrack of our lives for the past two decades.

Between them, they have sold more than 55million records worldwide, thanks to a series of high-profile collaborations including Rihanna, Mariah Carey, Gewn Stefani and David Guetta.

In 2008, Akon teamed up with Michael Jackson to rework the King of Pop’s 1982 smash Wanna Be Startin’ Somethin’.

Now he tells Bizarre that he’s got his sights on teaming up with Princess of Pop Britney Spears.

Speaking to Bizarre’s Jack backstage at The O2 as he and Ne-Yo team up for a massive UK arena tour, Akon said: “Yeah, I would f***ing kill that record with Britney. I’m obsessed with her.

“I have some songs lined up, but I can’t even explain it. As for the sound, I think it needs to reflect where she’s at in her life.”

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He added: “That thing is beyond Britney. I can’t think of anyone that I haven’t worked with.

“So this is why I do a lot of collaborations with new artists, because that is what inspires me now.”

The duo have played just about every big arena in the country, including multiple nights at Manchester’s Co-Op Live Arena and four nights at London’s O2.

And fans there for their last night at the capital’s venue this Thursday are in for a treat as the show is nothing short of bonkers in the best way, with Akon crowd-surfing on a pimped-out table.

The hitmaker had kicked off the tour Zorbing over the crowd — but UK health and safety rules forced him to rethink his plans.

Akon said: “Yeah, the inflatable ball was my idea. I’ve been doing it at other places since about 2008, but the UK has got too many restrictions.”

Videos of Akon crowd-surfing have gone viral on social media, with overjoyed fans baffled and stunned at the singer’s ­daring display.

In one clip, the superstar can be heard telling ­security not to worry and to get out of the way, as his fans love him and won’t hurt him.

Admitting he has zero fears when it comes to entering the crowd, Akon said: “No, I’m not nervous about falling off at all.

“You have got to have balance, though.”

After we tell him we would need a vodka before hitting the stage, the teetotal star laughs: “That’s why you could never do it. You couldn’t balance on there.

“You would be wobbly the moment you get on top.”

In fact, the sober star says all he needs is a can of Coca-Cola and some jelly beans to get him pumped up for the two-and-a-half-hour show.

Akon said: “Back in the day I used to work out before a show, but now it comes so second nature, I just chill and relax until it’s time for me to get on. I literally have no rituals.

“I love jelly beans. I have them before my show every day. I like Coke as a nice refreshing drink, and I make fruit juices as well. Just the basic stuff — ginger and lemon teas.

“But for the show itself, it’s totally different. I turn into the Incredible Hulk. I just change when the lights come on. I turn into somebody totally different.

“I’m not exhausted by the end. I’m fully energised and ready to go again.”

While Akon is powered by jelly beans, it seems his co-headliner Ne-Yo gets his energy from Scampi Fries.

Bizarre are led through the rabbit warren of corridors in The O2, passing racks of diamond- encrusted clothes to meet the star ahead of the gig.

And when he emerges from his dressing room, he holds up two packs of the savoury snack, which can be found in most old boozers.

Clearly impressed and baffled by the quintessentially British treat, Ne-Yo says: “I’ve just discovered scampi snacks — I love them.”

Rather than bringing them with him on the road, bosses at The O2 have stocked his dressing room minibar with a ­plentiful supply.

We tell Ne-Yo that if he pops to the pub for a post-show pint, he will be able to ask for a bag of Scampi Fries alongside his Stella.

Ne-Yo, who has clocked up 20 UK Top 40 singles and five UK No1s, jokingly replies: “I’m going to invest in the company.”

Judging by their high-energy set, it seems jelly beans and Scampi Fries really are the way forward.

ZENDAYA: MY BALANCING  ACT

THEY are two of the biggest showbiz names on the planet.

But despite regularly being seen out and about together, Tom Holland and Zendaya are notoriously private when it comes to their relationship.

Now the Dune actress has revealed why she holds things back from fans – describing how she is locked in a daily battle over how much of her private life to share.

Zendaya said: “It’s a complex thing. It’s a balance of how to figure out how much to give of yourself, because I wouldn’t be in this position without the people who support me, and I want to be able to show them how thankful I am for their support.

“But then on the flip side, it is important to pour into yourself as well and hold things sacred to yourself and to your loved ones – to have those moments too and create that little healthy boundary.”

Zendaya and Tom married in secret this year after meeting on the set of Spider-Man: Homecoming in 2016.

She added: “At the end of the day, you have to fill your cup too.

“I try to find that balance. There’s really no blueprint. There’s no road map.

“We don’t know what we’re doing. We’re just figuring this out every day.”

A $570m JACKO THRILLER

THE MICHAEL JACKSON biopic, Michael, has only been out for three weeks but is already breaking records.

The film has surpassed $570million (£420m) at the global box office – making it the No1 music biopic of all time in North America.

It is only the second music biopic ever to earn more than $500million at the box office, following in the footsteps of Bohemian Rhapsody.

Released in 2018, that film saw Rami Malek play the late Freddie Mercury, while former EastEnders actor turned X-Men hunk Ben Hardy played drummer Roger Taylor.

Meanwhile, in Michael, the late King of Pop is played by his real-life nephew, Jaafar Jackson.

Michael’s daughter, Paris Jackson, has distanced herself from the project, accusing bosses of creating a “fantasy” with “full-blown lies”.

ARIANA: NEW LIFE BUDS IN PETALS

ARIANA GRANDE has continued to tease her upcoming eighth album, Petal.

The We Can’t Be Friends singer has insisted the new collection isn’t like her X-rated 2021 record Positions – despite previously referring to it as “a bit feral”.

Asked if the records will be similar, Ari simply replied: “No, but I love her [Positions] . . . I just enjoy evolving.”

The album’s lead ­single, Hate That I Made You Love Me, drops in just over a fortnight, with Petal released on July 31.

Ari’s previous album, 2024’s Eternal ­Sunshine, was all about her split from ­Dalton Gomez after three years of ­marriage, and finding love once more with her Wicked co-star Ethan Slater.

Insisting Petal will be far more uplifting than her last offering, Ariana added: “Basically, it’s about something that is full of life growing through the cracks of something cold and hard and challenging.”

Doja’s frilled to hit  town  

LOOKS like less is more for Doja Cat.

The Paint The Town Red rapper clearly doesn’t feel the cold as she steps out in New York in this tiny outfit.

Looking ready to party into the night, Doja opted for a purple metallic crop-top and a tiny frilly brown skirt – which barely measures more than some of the belts I own.

Doja completed her look with an equally minuscule pink handbag, which looks like it would only be able to fit an iPhone and a ­single lighter.

She may be from Los ­Angeles, but Doja clearly has some northern grit in her.

HELLO JAMES – WHO’S THE LITTLE GUY ON YOUR KNEE?

I’VE posed for my fair share of unflattering pictures with stars over the years.

But James Martin may have just taken the crown when it comes to photographic oddities.

The TV chef shared this picture of himself with presenter Guy Martin after he appeared on James Martin’s Saturday Morning cookery show.

Due to the angle, James appears five times the size of Guy, who is perched next to him like a ­ventriloquist’s dummy.

The Instagram comments section was ­immediately filled with fans of the duo giving them a good old-fashioned ribbing.

One wrote: “Did you have him on a boil wash?” Another added: “Love Guy. I didn’t realise he was only 2ft tall though.”

A third teased: “Faith in the British sense of humour restored by reading this ­comment section.”

Seemingly oblivious to the epic fail, James gushed over his bromance with Guy, with the caption: “I’ve interviewed many people but Guy was a top one . . .fascinating man and a massive eater. Top show – hope you liked it.”

DANCEFLOOR legend Martin Garrix has confirmed my tale that his single with Ed Sheeran is just around the corner.

Over the weekend, a billboard with a message from Martin popped up in the Dominican Republic, where Shape Of You singer Ed has just played a show.

It read: “Hi Ed. Can we please release our song? Xx Marty.”

I told last month how the duo will be releasing Repeat It.

Show support

LEWIS CAPALDI has added some huge support acts to his BST Hyde Park shows in London.

The singer will be supported by a string of top names including The Vaccines for his July 11 gig and Alessi Rose for his July 12 date.

Before he reaches the capital, Lewis will also play the brand-new Roundhay Festival in Leeds on July 4.

Jessie Murph, Kerr Mercer and Nieve Ella have all been announced to support him at the show.

Going all out

WE can always count on Rita Ora to go all out when it comes to weird and wonderful outfit choices.

The singer and actress looks like she stepped straight off the runway in this quirky blue-striped co-ord on Sunday in London.

Rita was in high spirits as she headed to the Royal Albert Hall to rehearse for tonight’s special King’s Trust Celebration concert there.

Bizarre will be backstage to bring you all the gossip from the VIP-packed night.

OLIVIA Attwood is certainly embracing the luxury lifestyle after forking out for a handbag worth close to what many Brits take home in a year.

The bag, equivalent to around eight months’ pay for the average worker, was bought by Olivia a few months before turning 35.

Sharing snaps online, Olivia wrote: “I got this baby in Paris in Jan and today is her first day out,” before adding: “Taking her on an adventure.”

The former Love Island star is continuing her celebrations by jetting off to the US – taking her new handbag with her.

The £26k Hermès Birkin Olivia was travelling with appears to be a Birkin 30 in Rouge H leather with palladium hardware – one of the fashion house’s most sought-after styles.

Birkin bags are famously difficult to buy, with shoppers often facing years-long waiting lists and needing a strong purchase history with Hermès before being offered one.

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The stunning star celebrated her birthday over the weekend as she hosted what she called “Olivia’s Birthday Bender” with pals.

The TV favourite was all smiles in green as she was presented with a birthday cake featuring the message “Another year around the pole” alongside a naked Barbie doll.

There was no sign of rumoured boyfriend Pete Wicks in the official snaps shared by Olivia.

However, eagle-eyed fans spotted him in Olivia’s vlog from the night where he was seen smiling in the reflection of a mirror.

Longtime friends and radio co-hosts Olivia and Pete were caught snogging in a popular bar in Soho earlier this year before jetting off to France on a secret holiday last month.

A source close to the pair previously told us they were “dating and enjoying their time together.”

Writer Octavia Lillywhite discovered the latest ‘moorcore’ trend with a wild and windswept escape in Bronte country, West Yorkshire

“Wuthering” is a Northern English term for a strong, roaring wind or a storm-lashed place, which is highly appropriate for Emily Brönte’s only novel – Cathy and Healthcliff’s tempestuous story of passion and revenge. It’s a harder sell for a holiday.

That hasn’t stopped ‘Moorcore’ from becoming the latest trend in UK breaks. And what is Moorcore? It’s a move-on from the cutesy cottagecore vibe (all roses round the windows, thatched roofs and cats curled by the fire). It’s wild and free. The feeling of standing atop a gritstone edge, a heathery moorland vista stretching to the horizon, tumbling waterfalls, fairy glens, fresh air in your lungs.

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There’s no better place to channel moorcore than on Haworth Moor – whose wild, heather-strews footpaths were well-traipsed by the Brontës. Two miles from their parsonage, Royds Hall Cottage is marked on maps from 1847, the very year Wuthering Heights published, and it’s likely it was a familiar sight for the sisters on their rambles. As we arrive, the breeze tusseling daffodils along the embankment and a buzzard hovering above, it feels magical.

Stay in the heart of the Yorkshire moors… near the pub

The kitchen is panelled on two sides with windows – a 180º view. There’s Ponden Reservoir shimmering, purple hills rising beyond and, in front, the owner’s horses tearing up the grass. The view changes moment to moment, as clouds scud across the sky, rolling shadows over the dale. You can watch the weather curl in from the east, like two days visible from the same window. I could marvel at it all day.

Just the right mix of old and new, the cottage sleeps four in two cosy rooms upstairs. Downstairs, the living room has the same vast view as the kitchen, exposed oak beams, a woodburner and sofas for cosying up in. And there’s a copy of Wuthering Heights if you forgot yours.

I’d had some concerns that wilderness could feel remote, but from the cottage’s kitchen window I could see the comforting sign of the nearest pub, and two more are a 10-minute walk away, in the village.

Walking in the footsteps of Wuthering Heights

On an energetic five-and-a-half mile loop from the cottage front door, we took in the waterfall at Lumb Beck (detailed in Charlotte’s letters to her friend, Ellen) and the desolate farmhouse at Top Withens – said to be the setting for Cathy and Healthcliff’s home. From there, across the moorland paths we discovered the Fairy Kirk at Ponden Clough (‘Penistone Crags’ in the novel), and beautiful Ponden Hall, which Emily Brontë used as Edgar Linton’s Thrushcross Grange and where her sister Anne set The Tenant of Wildfell Hall.

Around Top Withens and the waterfall, there were scores of walkers admiring the famous views but, only a crow-call beyond, we saw barely a soul – just swooping curlews with their strange warbling cries and a roe deer bouncing off into the distance. It’s easy to find both wild inspiration and, afterwards, scones and clotted cream at Ponden Mill.

In the other direction, Haworth village was less than an hour’s stroll. It’s the focal point of Brontë pilgrimage, so it was busy – yet still so beguiling, with a sense of the sisters at every turn. Visiting on foot meant we could skip the car park and enter the village – just as they would have – from the footpath at the end of Church Street.

Their house (now an unmissable museum) is the first you come to on the cobbled street. From the parlour table, the one Emily and her sisters worked at, you can still look out at the graveyard with its overcrowded, flat-lying gravestones.

The best places to eat and shop near Stanbury and Haworth

In Stanbury village, a 10-minute walk from the house, we found the Wuthering Heights Inn serves excellent pub food classics, is family and dog friendly and didn’t bat an eyelid at our muddy boots.

If you prefer to eat in, don’t miss Robertshaw’s Farm Shop at Thornton, 20 minutes by car. It’s packed to the rafters with local meats, dairy, vegetables and baked goods plus wine and Yorkshire ales. We loved it so much we stopped there again on the way home to pack the car with extras.

How to book this Yorkshire Moors cottage stay

Royds Hall Cottage sleeps four (a double room and a twin) and is available to book through booking.com or cottages.com, from £370 for 3 nights.

More ‘moorcore’ destinations to try in the UK, with great literary links

The wild places of Britain have been inspiring literary classics for generations, and Haworth is not the only place to find it.

Lorna Doone

Where to find it: Riverside Cottage overlooks dappling Badgeworthy Water, the river where John and Lorna meet, just at the ford in Malmesmead. In a seven-ish mile walk you can head up into their moorland valley among the rolling hills, or a 3-mile loop takes in the 13th-century church at Oare. Either way, you end back at your cottage, next door to The Buttery café. Further afield, don’t miss Tarr Steps (about 35 minutes by car) where a 1000-year old clapper bridge spans the river, and in summer families picnic on the grassy meadow before heading to Liscombe Dairy for the best ice creams.

How much? Riverside Cottage sleeps four from £699 for 7 nights, see nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays

The Secret Garden

Where to find it: Wood Cottage nestles in the rugged North York Moors, circled almost entirely by wild uplands with footpaths in any direction. One of the area’s most inspiring views, The Wainstones, is a 3-mile hike, and on the way back you can drop by The Buck Inn. The cottage is 200 years old but recently – and so prettily refurbished – with the living room upstairs for the best light and views. It’s set on a working sheep farm, so expect fluffy Herdwick lambs to visit at the back gate for your very own Dicken moment from the patio. Twenty minutes drive away, Hemsley Walled Garden could rival the garden Mary Lennox found, while right next door, Dunscombe Park served as Misselthwaite Manor in the 2020 Secret Garden film.

How much? Wood Cottage sleeps four from £697 for 7 nights, see sykescottages.co.uk

RIHANNA looked sensational as she stripped to a racy cherry bra for a sizzling new shoot. 

The pop superstar, 38, was the perfect model for the newest release from her Savage X Fenty lingerie brand, the Cherry Nouveau collection. 

Umbrella hitmaker Rihanna, who shares three children with her rapper partner A$AP Rocky, expertly worked the camera while posing for the sexy snaps. 

One showed her gazing off camera while seductively poking her tongue out, teaming the bra with a pink gingham shirt worn off the shoulders and some chunky gold necklaces. 

In another image, Rihanna turned things up a notch by perching on the edge of a cabinet with her legs parted. 

She finished the sizzling look with a pair of strappy red heels, proving that sometimes less is definitely more. 

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Rihanna and Rocky, 37, are parents to sons RZA, four, and Riot, two, and seven-month-old daughter Rocki. 

And the singer recently teased that she’s already thinking about baby number four. 

She chatted to British Love Island star Montana Brown, 30, who shot to fame in 2017 on the UK version of the show, underneath an Instagram video she posted.

Montana, who shares two children with her fiancé, said in the clip, “Deciding to get hot and sexy or get pregnant in 2026.

Rihanna took to the comment section and added: ‘Wait! So I’m not crazy then? Bet!”

Fans of Rihanna’s quickly responded to her comment.

Loyal supporters are desperate for Rihanna to finally release the follow-up to her 2016 album Anti rather than welcome a fourth baby.

One person replied: “Girl the only thing you need to be popping out is that album PLZZZZZZ.”

Hunter Haight got his first career goal and rookie Jesper Wallstedt auditioned for action in the playoffs with 35 saves as the Minnesota Wild finished their regular season by beating the Ducks 3-2 on Tuesday night.

Danila Yurov and Robby Fabbri also scored for the playoff-bound Wild, who have won 21 of their last 22 games against the Ducks, including eight in a row.

Wallstedt, who is second in the NHL in save percentage, went 18-9-6 in his debut and has given the Wild plenty to consider for a potential postseason goalie rotation with Filip Gustavsson. Wallstedt allowed only 12 goals over his last six starts.

Mason McTavish scored on a power play in the first period and again on a tip-in with 45 seconds left for the Ducks, who clinched their first spot in the playoffs since 2018 during an off night on Monday when Nashville lost to San José.

The Ducks, who have 90 points with one game left, are 1-6-2 in their last eight games. They can no longer win the Pacific Division and could still fall to the second wild-card spot, which would match up with Presidents’ Trophy winner Colorado in the first round.

The Ducks haven’t won a playoff series since a second round victory over Edmonton in 2017, though that’s two years more recent than Minnesota’s last postseason advancement.

The Wild, who rested 10 regular skaters, giving Haight, the team’s 2022 second-round draft pick, an opportunity as the second line center in his eighth NHL game. He ripped a shot from the slot in the second period to get on the board.