A charming town in a popular holiday destination remains a snapshot of its medieval past and rich heritage but is smaller than a football pitch with a population of just over 50
Nestled in the hills in central Istria, northwest Croatia, the tiny village of Hum has stunning views of the surrounding countryside and forests.
Legend has it that friendly giants built the town from leftover stones from the construction of other nearby villages. It is surrounded by protective medieval walls and to this day nothing has been constructed outside of them, meaning it has kept its original character.
Visitors often marvel at the diminutive size of the town, which is considered the smallest in the world, as well as soak up its ancient architecture, rich cultural heritage and traditions, while indulging in the delicious local food and brandy made from regional produce.
Although local legend says it was giants who built the town, it was first mentioned in documents from 1102 when it was then called Cholm. Count Ulrich I built the castle inside the defensive walls and the settlements were located next to the castle in the fort. In 1552, a watch tower and bell were built next to the town’s loggia (town hall) to aid with defence.
There are just two pretty, cobbled streets and the entire town measures only around 100 metres by 30. In the 2021 census, there were only 52 recorded as living there, which is quite a rise from the last census 10 years previously, when the population was 30.
It is considered a town because it has its own council and large parish church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary – which was built in 1802 on the site of the original church. Glagolitic wall hangings are housed there, which are some of the oldest known examples of Slavic alphabets and Croatian literary culture from the Middle Ages. The museum also displays some writings from the period and there are Romanesque frescoes in the Chapel of St Jerome for visitors to see.
History buffs will also love the Glagolitic Alley, which is a path from the nearby village of Roc that leads to Hum. It is lined with large stone monuments representing the ancient Glagolitic alphabet.
Old customs are still upheld by locals, such as the Day of Hum on June 11, when the election of the town mayor takes place. Every year, local judges from the parish carve their votes into a wooden stick at the historic town hall, or Municipal Loggia.
After exploring the picturesque streets, you can recharge by indulging in some of the local dishes. Traditional cuisine is usually hearty recipes made from local ingredients, such as Istrian vegetable stew. It is a simple but comforting soup made from barley, beans, potatoes and corn. Other popular dishes include pasta made with a rich beef sauce, ombolo, which is smoked pork loin, local sausage and sauerkraut. Krostule is a favourite local dessert made from fried dough. Truffles are also abundant in the hilly area, and the nearby town of Buzet is known as the City of Truffles.
Another specialty to try is the biska, which is a type of brandy made from fermented grapes, mistletoe, and four medicinal herbs. The recipe is 2,000 years old and was first made by the Celtic druids. Every October, the Istrian Rakija Festival takes place, when visitors can sample the drink from local producers.
One event of note is the Industrial Hemp Festival, which usually takes place in August when local products including oil, flour, tea, and seeds are available. There are also tasty foods and drinks made from hemp to sample, such as cheese, cookies, crackers, bread, bread burgers, and gin.
When it comes to travelling to Hum, the best way to get there is by private car hire as public transport in Istria isn’t the most reliable. Parking is 3 euros for the whole day, so you have plenty of time to explore without having to worry. There are also some local day tours that stop off in the town. It’s a great place to rest if you’re taking advantage of one of the hiking or cycling trails in Istria.
The closest airport is Rijeka (RJK), which Ryanair runs direct flights to from London Stansted. There are also indirect routes with carriers like Lufthansa from Heathrow.
One visitor on Tripadvisor said: “Do you need a good reason to visit what is claimed to be the ‘smallest town in the world’?! This place just charmed the socks off us. We loved it here. It’s tiny (of course) but has a unique charm, as you enter through the imposing gated entrance you feel like you are being transported back in time. It doesn’t feel like much has changed here for centuries. The road up is an interesting one and you just need to keep reminding yourself it’s going to be worth it as you drive up. The back route we took was a bit hair-raising in parts!”