THERE are English market towns that cling lovingly to the past — all Georgian facades, cobbled streets and the gentle chime of church bells.
And then there is Sherborne.
A Dorset town that still manages to do all that, while at the same time establishing itself as one of the West Country’s most up-and-coming foodie destinations.
On its attractive high street, record stores and trendy coffee spots sit alongside chintzy tea rooms that seem preserved in time.
And slap bang in the middle of that action is Oxford’s Bakery, whose shelves are piled high with artisanal loaves, sticky doughnuts, chocolate-y treats and savoury pastries.
While the shop is in the heart of town, the real magic happens at the chain’s site in nearby Alweston where the Oxford family have been baking bread for over 200 years.
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Led by head baker Dave Chapman, this flour-dusted kitchen pumps out between 250 and 800 loaves every day cooked in ovens that were first installed in 1921.
A 75-year-old antique dough mixer — a similar size to a hot tub — is also still used and is the last working one of its kind in the world.
Dave tells me: “Our ovens are our main feature and the main attraction — they are over 105 years old.
“I’m baking at nine tonight, and that’ll be billowing smoke,” he says.
“These ovens bake around seven days a week and they’re never cold.”
That inviting mix of old and new runs deep through Sherborne.
Sherborne Abbey stands grandly in the centre, its stunning fan-vaulted ceiling hailed as beautiful as any work of the Italian Renaissance.
The Abbey dates to 705 AD, and two Saxon kings are buried here. Another historical gem, Sherborne Old Castle, is 20 minutes’ walk away, and opens to visitors in summer.
And souvenir shoppers won’t be disappointed. Sherborne Antiques
Market has more than 40 dealers and is a cavern of curiosities.
Of course, there’s plenty more to see of the local food scene and at its heart is The Clockspire.
Found in the village of Milborne Port, a short ten-minute taxi journey from Sherborne, the two AA Rosette restaurant resides in a former primary school. But you won’t find a turkey twizzler in sight.
With its wrought-iron chandeliers, low level lighting and a stylish mezzanine cocktail bar, it would make the perfect date spot, but my friend and I didn’t feel out of place with our two little ones either.
Having trained with Michael Caines at Lympstone Manor, chef Luke Bryant serves up first-class West Country produce — think crispy pork belly on a puddle of “bacon foam” or perfectly pink beef sirloin on top of an oozy onion sauce (£37).
There’s even a kids’ menu with hand-made fish goujons with chips and peas (£10), which my 22-month-old Sylive wolfed down.
Don’t leave without trying the stem ginger mousse with rhubarb and creme fraiche sorbet (£13), either. It was simply irresistible.
We’d been staying at The Eastbury Hotel and Spa, a proud five-star joint in a listed Georgian townhouse.
Originally designed as an 18th century gentleman’s residence, our room felt suitably grand, with a free-standing bath, ornate Chinese screen and luxurious antique furniture.
There are 21 traditional rooms in the original buildings plus Potting Shed Suites set in the walled garden for those wanting extra privacy.
There’s a billiard room, a croquet lawn and garden spa, offering top quality treatments.
My hour-long full body massage (£80) was worth every penny. I could have easily drifted off into an afternoon snooze, dreaming of Oxford’s Bakery’s moreish loaves.
I wonder if there’s still time to stock up before the home leg. . .
GO: Sherborne
STAYING THERE: Rooms at The Eastbury start from £123.23 per night or £145 with breakfast.