EXCLUSIVE: From the moment I landed in Toulouse, I immediately understood why it is affectionately known as La Ville Rose, the pink city. Everywhere I looked, whether down narrow side streets or along the main thoroughfares, warm terracotta buildings caught the sunlight
The city is a riot of colours(Image: Getty Images)
I grew up in England, specifically Norfolk, a rural county in the east that is alarmingly flat and, if we are being honest, quite dull aesthetically. It has its charm, of course, and is often cited as one of the more desirable places to live in the country, but it rarely prepares you for visual spectacle. So when I recently jetted off to the south of France, to a city I had barely heard of before, I wasn’t expecting to find one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. From the moment I landed in Toulouse, I immediately understood why it is affectionately known as La Ville Rose, the pink city. Everywhere I looked, whether down narrow side streets or along the main thoroughfares, warm terracotta buildings caught the sunlight.
Depending on the time of day, the brickwork shifted beautifully between dusty pink, burnt orange, and soft gold. It felt like a city alive, glowing beneath the southern French sun.
The beauty here isn’t loud or demanding; it reveals itself slowly.
You find it in quiet courtyards hidden behind ornate doorways, along the banks of the Garonne River where the pink facades shimmer in the water, and in the intricate details of wrought iron balconies that have watched over the streets for centuries. I have to admit, I am not usually one to obsess over architecture when I travel. This isn’t born out of ignorance, but rather the largely uniform nature of the places I’ve previously visited. Toulouse, however, brought out the architect in me. For centuries, this city prospered because of pastel, a humble plant whose leaves produced one of Europe’s most prized blue dyes. Often called the region’s “blue gold,” pastel brought enormous wealth to Toulouse during the Renaissance, funding the elegant merchant houses that still stand today. I had read a bit about this history before arriving, but staring at a laptop screen is a completely different experience from holding that history in your own hands. To truly understand it, I attended a workshop led by a local woman whose passion for the craft was impossible not to admire. Rather than simply demonstrating the process, she invited me to participate. She explained how generations of artisans had transformed the green leaves into a vibrant natural dye, preserving techniques passed down through centuries.
When my turn came, I was incredibly nervous because I am as cack-handed as they come. But with a plain white cloth in front of me, I gave it a go. I folded, twisted, and bound the fabric with elastic bands, creating patterns without knowing what the final result would look like. It felt a bit like making tie-dye back in school, though this was slower, quieter, and far more intentional. Every fold felt like a crucial creative decision, even though I was largely winging it. The most mesmerizing moment came when I submerged the fabric in the dye bath. Instead of emerging blue, the cloth came out a surprising shade of yellow-green. As I lifted it into the air, the guide simply smiled and told me to wait. Like magic, oxygen began to work, transforming the dye before my eyes from green to the deep, iconic pastel blue the city is famous for. That afternoon changed how I looked at Toulouse. Suddenly, I began noticing blue everywhere: in boutique windows selling naturally dyed scarves, in handmade ceramics, on painted window shutters, and in the stories proudly shared by local artisans. The famous pink architecture and the city’s blue heritage no longer felt like separate identities, but rather two complementary colors that have shaped Toulouse’s soul for centuries.
Travel often encourages us to merely collect photographs, but the experiences that stay with us are the ones that ask us to participate. The pastel workshop gave me a deeper connection to this place than any museum or monument could have offered. When I think back to Toulouse now, I don’t just remember the blue-stained fingertips or the quiet satisfaction of watching my fabric transform in the air. I also remember wandering through those glowing streets, the warm terracotta facades catching the evening light and giving the city its unmistakable character. Together, the rosy architecture and the centuries-old pastel heritage tell the story of a city shaped by color, craftsmanship, and creativity. Toulouse didn’t just feel like a place to visit; it was an experience where every shade and handmade creation left a lasting impression long after you returned home.
Book it
Book a room at the Hotel Le Granda Balcon for from £172 per night Direct flights from London Heathrow or London Stansted Airport to Toulouse start from £39 The AHPY dyeing workshop costs £47 Toulouse is accessible via a Eurostar service to Paris, followed by a high-speed TGV connection to Toulouse. A one-way journey from London to Toulouse with Eurostar and TGV start from £80pp.
