GRACEFULLY stepping on to the red-carpeted gangplank, I turn and wave to the crowd.
Well, I say crowd. It’s a coach party from Aberdeen, who, like me, have come to snoop around our late Queen’s favourite floating home.
The Royal Yacht Britannia, docked in Edinburgh’s port of Leith for the past 28 years, has been named the World’s Best Attraction at Tripadvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Awards 2026.
An accolade that Queen Elizabeth II would surely have approved of, in what would have been her 100th year.
It’s a 25-minute tram ride from Princes Street, where I’m staying at The Rutland Hotel — with super castle views.
The yacht features in season two of TV hit The Crown and is a huge draw for tourists.
Built in 1953 in Clydebank, Glasgow, Britannia sailed more than a million nautical miles during her 44-year reign over the waves and accompanied the Royal Family on 968 state visits to 135 countries.
Her new £3million visitor centre leads with a photo-heavy exhibition about the ship’s history, including an interesting Day In The Life Of Queen Elizabeth II.
An excellent audio tour then guides me through the five decks on board.
On the bridge, I sit in the captain’s chair overlooking a rather grey Firth of Forth and imagine the sights seen from here over the years, such as the Sydney Opera House and Hong Kong skyline.
But the Queen simply adored sailing around the Hebrides on her annual royal holiday, which she described as “the one place I can truly relax”.
Walking the scrubbed teak decks, I get a glimpse of royal life on board this floating palace.
There’s Her Majesty’s office, where she would work each day, and the Sun Room — a teak-panelled lounge with bar and rum tub said to have been the Queen’s favourite spot on the ship.
It overlooks the Veranda Deck, where Prince Philip would set up his easel to paint.
I can picture myself playing quoits with Princess Anne or enjoying a Dubonnet and a game of whist with Princess Margaret.
On board, it’s like time has stood still.
Not least because every clock is set at 3.01pm, when the Queen and Prince Philip disembarked for the final time on December 11, 1997.
Echoing the plush decor found in other royal homes, the State Drawing Room is the family room. In the corner is a Welmar baby grand piano — bolted to the floor to withstand the waves — which was played over the years by guests including playwright Noel Coward and Princess Diana.
The Vestibule Deck has the State Apartments — including the somewhat modest adjoining cabins of the Queen and Prince Philip, with single beds.
Only one suite has a double bed — installed on request by Prince Charles for his first honeymoon.
Like Princess Margaret, I’m also partial to a pre-lunch sharpener.
The Royal Deck Tearoom serves her favourite Dubonnet cocktail (£16), as well as Moet by the glass or bottle (£15/£78), and a great coronation chicken sandwich (£10).
But the State Dining Room — rarely open to us commoners — is where VIP guests, such as Sir Winston Churchill, would dine with the Royal Family.
Below deck, I wind through the galley, laundry and medical room — with operating theatre — to discover how the 220-strong crew ran the ship like clockwork.
In the gift shop, you can get everything from a stuffed corgi (£25) to a Launer handbag (£2,850), a favourite of Her Maj.
As the State Apartments are not yet on Airbnb, you can enjoy a similar experience nearby at The Fingal, a former lighthouse tender turned luxury floating hotel.
GO: LEITH
GETTING THERE: Advance tickets from London to Edinburgh Waverley Station from £41.40 each way.
See lner.co.uk.
STAYING THERE: The Rutland Hotel has B&B doubles from £250 per night, therutlandhotel.com. The Fingal has cabins from £264.
See fingal.co.uk.
OUT AND ABOUT: Tour Royal Yacht Britannia from £25 for adults and £12.50 for children aged 7-15.
See royalyachtbritannia.co.uk.
MORE INFO: See edinburgh.org.
