I visited the ‘world’s happiest city’ that even better in winter with cosy cafes, spiced Glogg & under two hours from UK

LIVING in rainy Britain, I’m not usually keen on cold- weather holiday destinations – but Copenhagen is an exception.

The autumn and winter months are where the Danish capital thrives.

Locals and tourists embrace the season, snuggling up by outdoor fires and sipping on hot chocolate or spiced Gløgg — the Scandinavian version of mulled wine.

Even in the bitter winter, Danes continue dining al fresco and sipping pints of Carlsberg, which was first brewed here in 1847.

In fact, making the most of the winter sunshine, crisp air and creating a comfy atmosphere has been factored into the way the Danish like to live, the concept of “hygge”.

Pronounced “hoo-gah”, it doesn’t have a direct translation but loosely, it is a quality of cosiness that leads to contentment and wellbeing.

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It undoubtedly forms part of the reason why Copenhagen was voted the World’s Happiest City for 2025 in the World Happy Index.

I certainly saw a lot of smiling faces as I wandered the streets.

There is even a Happiness Museum where you can learn how Copenhagen is leading the charge when it comes to cheerful citizens.

My favourite bit was the hallway of sticky notes where visitors are encouraged to write down what makes them happy, listing everything from meaningful anecdotes about friends and family to simple pleasures like cinnamon rolls and coffee.

Shopping counts as one of those simple pleasures for me and luckily, there is plenty of that here.

I suggest the Stroget district, which has all sorts of stores from luxury brands like Ganni and Gucci to ­budget-friendly alternatives.

Food is big on the happiness scale, too, and when it comes to eating in Copenhagen, you’re spoilt for choice – especially with Danish pastries.

There are around 140 bakeries on the corners of the main shopping streets and tucked away in alleyways.

Holms Bager is a great spot to try a sticky and sweet cinnamon bun with crunchy sugar pieces.

But Buka, a bakery that opened in 2019, immediately tempted me inside with its window display of pistachio-filled croissants and cream tarts.

I opted for Danish specialty Tebirkes – a brioche bun filled with rich remonce (spiced sugar paste), brushed with almond glaze and topped with poppy seeds. Delicious.

As for savoury dishes, Smorrebrod (essentially an open sandwich on rye bread) is served almost everywhere with toppings varying from prawns to pate and pickled herring.

Famous landmarks

With little time left and much of the city still to see, I headed out on a canal tour, booked through Tui as an added extra to my package break.

The tour started in the city centre and took me around the waterways to the likes of Paper Island – a new urban quarter, which is home to the most ex­pen­­sive penthouse ever sold in the city.

I saw CopenHill, the huge Opera House and went through Christianshavn before stopping by The Little Mermaid statue — although sadly, you only see the back of her from the boat.

If you want the best view, sit on the left-hand side as you board.

Not only did the tour offer me a chance to get out on the water, but I saw almost all of Copenhagen’s most famous landmarks in just one hour.

That’s the other beauty of a package getaway like my Tui one – the organisational faff is kept to a minimum with all the essentials sorted for you.

That meant less time planning and more time exploring.

I had booked a room at the well- located Admiral Hotel Copenhagen, a former grain warehouse across the water from the Opera House.

The homely, loft-style set-up featured a little living area, plus a bathroom and a mezzanine level where my double bed sat below a skylight.

The hotel is just minutes from the postcard-perfect Nyhavn – a bright district with tall colourful houses sat right on the waterfront where boat bars bob on the water.

In the evenings, fairy lights zigzag above the cobbled streets and it’s a great spot to stop for a cocktail or warming Glogg if you prefer.

The art of hygge isn’t so hard to practise when you’re in Copenhagen.