THE sun is still rising as we trot on horseback across acres of a wild and untouched landscape.
The only sign of human life is a stream of smoke in the distance billowing into the sky.
It isn’t until we get closer that I notice the group of cowboys busying themselves around a fire, cooking us up a mighty breakfast of smoky bacon, grits, eggs and refried beans.
The smell is incredible, the view is magical and even my kids seem awestruck.
For the past few days I’d been getting a true taste of Texas on the family-run Mayan Dude Ranch in the city of Bandera, a couple of hours or so from Austin.
And the crowd I was travelling with — my 13-year-old daughter Belle and eight-year-old son Harry — is usually tough to please.
But judging by my daughter’s grin as she dismounted and hugged her huge white horse Cash, this holiday had already got a big thumbs up.
She was so hooked on the adventure that she’d even left her phone back at the ranch, which makes me wonder why on Earth we didn’t do this sooner.
Normally, as a family we join thousands of other Brits splashing out a small fortune on a beach resort in Europe to soak up the rays while the kids force Dad to get in the pool for the 97th time.
But when our son announced a few months back that he’d “quite like to be a cowboy”, we decided to take the plunge and instead head to the Lone Star State, where we’d never stepped foot before.
Our epic road trip kicked off with a bang as we pulled into Buc-ee’s, the world’s biggest gas station, before arriving at Boerne (lovingly pronounced Bernie by the locals) right in the heart of cowboy country.
This city is extremely walkable, with lots to admire on the way.
Streets are lined with architecture that blends classic Texas with European designs due to an influx of Germans settling here in the mid-1800s.
When we weren’t admiring the buildings, we took on some fiery hot Texan wings — I wouldn’t recommend giving them to your eight-year-old! — and hiked the family-friendly Cibolo Trail that follows a nature-filled creek.
With tired legs, we were more than ready for a spot of luxury.
And that’s exactly what The Kendall, one of America’s oldest country inns, offers.
The hotel is a national landmark that has been welcoming guests, including Presidents, since 1859, with 34 unique rooms, including some cute log cabins.
We stayed in the converted chapel suite which blew our socks off, with original features, the biggest bed we’ve ever slept in and a wide veranda complete with rocking chairs.
This place was worth the trip alone but, little did we know, the best was yet to come.
Around a 30-minute drive west of here is the Mayan Dude Ranch and it is one of the most welcoming places I’ve ever stayed. From the moment we arrived we were made to feel part of the family.
Everyone you meet — at check-in, dinner or running the never-ending activities — is a part of the Hicks Family, who have run the ranch for three generations. In fact, if you go during school holidays you’ll see five generations working here.
The rustic cabins offer plenty of space but there are no frills, which only adds to the charm and authentic feel.
Breakfasts are laid on in different parts of the 348-acre ranch and there are only two ways to get there.
Ride out on horseback (it is walking pace so even total amateurs like me can manage it) or jump on “The Haybale Trailer” and trundle down.
Everyone gets two horse rides a day but be warned, by day three you may be walking like John Wayne.
With a maximum of 90 guests at any one time we quickly got to know our fellow ranchers and the kids were soon off making friends, playing corn hole and shuffleboard or horseshoe pitching.
And when the Texan sun got too much, the outdoor pool offered the perfect escape. Everything is included in your stay at the ranch.
So this means all activities from exotic animal visits to impromptu kids’ foam parties, as well as ice cold beers and wine to help you unwind.
As for the food, it’s delicious and never-ending — much of it plucked from their own land. Make sure to try their campfire-cooked steak, it’s the best you’ll ever taste.
After dinner each night the Texan hospitality really heats up.
One night we were learning to crack a whip with the local whipping champion — ear defenders at the ready — and the next, everyone was learning to line dance.
We started out nervous and awkward as we tried to master the Texan Two Step but by the end of the evening the whole group was pulling off a full Square Dance.
Well, at least we thought we were. Upon check out, my son was surgically attached to his cowboy hat, my daughter wanted a horse and my wife was thinking of moving to Texas.
Hopefully she’ll take us with her . . .
GO: TEXAS
GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from Heathrow to Austin from £676 return.
See britishairways.com.
STAYING THERE: Family rooms at the Mayan Dude Ranch cost £117 per person per night, based on four sharing and on an all-inclusive basis (minimum two-night stay required).
See mayanranch.com.
Family rooms at The Kendall in Boerne cost from £111 a night.
See kendallhotel.com.
MORE INFO: See traveltexas.com.
