trip

NEW YORK — Two Democratic senators are launching an investigation into whether Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. lied to Congress about his reason for a 2019 trip to Samoa after the Associated Press and the Guardian published documents in August refuting his testimony.

The new inquiry is one of a vast array of investigations planned into the Trump administration after Democrats regained control of the House and the Senate from Republicans in the midterm elections.

Sens. Ron Wyden (D-Ore.) and Angela Alsobrooks (D-Md.) said in a letter Wednesday to Children’s Health Defense, a nonprofit group known for anti-vaccine activism that was formerly chaired by Kennedy, that they were starting an investigation.

The lawmakers asked the group for a broad range of documents related to Kennedy’s Samoa travel, his 2024 presidential campaign and his Senate confirmation process. The letter also requested all communications between the group and federal government officials since President Trump’s second term began in January 2025. The senators gave the group a deadline of Dec. 4 to comply.

AP and Guardian reporting in August showed that while Kennedy repeatedly told lawmakers who held the key to his confirmation last year that his visit to Samoa before a deadly measles outbreak had “nothing to do with vaccines,” a letter he sent to the Samoan prime minister ahead of the trip on Children’s Health Defense letterhead showed otherwise. In the letter, Kennedy used the words “vaccine” or “vaccination” eight times.

“We intend to hold Secretary Kennedy accountable for the grave harm he has caused to vulnerable children,” Wyden and Alsobrooks wrote in their letter. “We also intend to hold him accountable for any false statements made to Congress, a crime that undermines the Senate’s ability to fulfill its constitutional duties.”

The Department of Health and Human Services has maintained that the Samoa visit “was unrelated to vaccines.” In response to an AP inquiry in August, it said “any claim or insinuation based on these letters that Secretary Kennedy lied under oath or to Congress is not only false but outright defamatory.”

Kennedy was not under oath during his confirmation hearing. Knowingly giving material false testimony to Congress is a crime that carries a possible prison sentence regardless of whether a person is under oath, though it is rarely prosecuted.

Spokespeople for Children’s Health Defense and HHS did not immediately respond to requests for comment Thursday.

Wyden is expected to chair the Senate Finance Committee, which has oversight into Kennedy’s health department, when Democrats retake Congress in January. Alsobrooks serves on the Senate Health, Education, Labor and Pensions Committee, which also oversees the department.

The same senators on Wednesday announced a separate investigation into hundreds of thousands of dollars’ worth of gifts reportedly given last year to Kennedy by a donor and former employee.

Swenson writes for the Associated Press.

SACRAMENTO — California Gov. Gavin Newsom left the state Tuesday to join international leaders at the United Nations Climate Change Conference in Antalya, Turkey.

Newsom framed his attendance as an opportunity to tell the world that California’s climate leadership is delivering results as he criticized President Trump as a “no-show” for declining to send a delegation on behalf of the United States.

“While Donald Trump sells out America’s economic security to his fossil fuel donors, California isn’t backing down from the climate fight,” Newsom said in a statement. “Trump is temporary. California’s partnerships around the world are not.”

Trump’s absence on the international stage has created an opening for California governors to contrast their climate policies with the federal government’s attempts to reverse the nation’s progress.

Then-Gov. Jerry Brown in 2017 sharply condemned the president’s decision to withdraw from the Paris climate agreement. On a 10-day trip to the Vatican, Brussels, Oslo and a U.N. Climate Conference in Bonn, Germany, later that year, Brown was labeled America’s “anti-Trump” as he warned that humanity was on the chopping block unless world leaders took action to reduce global emissions. Brown also hosted his own international climate summit in San Francisco in 2018 to recommit countries to the ideals of the accord that Trump disavowed.

Since taking office, Newsom has appeared at several annual Climate Week events in New York and used his speaking opportunities to blast Trump in traditionally apolitical forums, often garnering international applause.

In 2019, he burst onto the climate scene when he told foreign leaders he was “absolutely humiliated” by Trump’s efforts to walk back the nation’s climate policies as the state and the federal government were locked in a battle over vehicle emission standards.

Newsom’s voyage to Turkey follows a trip to Brazil last year to attend the U.N. conference, where he similarly cast California as a proxy for the Trump administration.

As he considers a run for president in 2028, Newsom is framing his remarks in Antalya, a tourist city on the Mediterranean coast, around his work to reduce greenhouse gases, encourage the use of zero-emission and electric vehicles and increase his state’s reliance on clean energy.

Newsom is expected to meet with other world leaders and sign pacts to address climate change together.

The governor’s envoy in Turkey includes First Partner Jennifer Siebel Newsom and his top climate confidants: Wade Crowfoot, secretary of the California Natural Resources Agency, and Lauren Sanchez, chair of the California Air Resources Board, among others.

As a once highly-annoying teenage girl of the 90s, I couldn’t wait to relive the songs of the Nightmare Before Christmas at Arley Hall’s light trail, but my son’s reaction was the best part

I’m at an age where I can’t claim to have been introduced to the Nightmare Before Christmas through motherhood, I was there fan-girling away when it was first released in 1993.

My equally angst-ridden school friends and I went to the cinema to watch it over and over again (it was only £2.50 back then), investing heavily in Sally’s yearning for Jack Skellington and singing the songs with gusto – how very annoying we were.

Deciding to swerve Trick or Treating this year, I booked Halloween tickets for the Nightmare Before Christmas light trail at Arley Hall instead to share the magic with my son – but mainly for my own nostalgia. However, his excitement quickly overrode mine.

At five, he already lives and breathes all things Oogie Boogie, and as we arrived at 5pm while dusk was falling across the historic Cheshire estate, an eerie mist rolled in, making the trail look like the actual film set. The natural fog caught the neon purples, eerie greens, and warm holiday ambers and the sky turned pink, making it feel like pure movie magic.

The quirky film is brought to life through 1,700 dazzling light installations, interactive video projections, intelligent LED lighting, music and 3D-printed sculptures.

Taking a walk through Halloween Town, my son danced along the path singing, but did not afford me the same rights, reprimanding me for having the audacity to enjoy Danny Elfman’s iconic soundtrack.

What shocked me the most, however, was his reaction to the installations. Normally he despises having his picture taken. Here, he morphed into some kind of Zoolander, pulling his best ‘Blue Steel’ alongside the characters and demanding photos to take back to his friends. He proudly posed beside Jack and Sally, grinned next to Zero’s glowing doghouse, and ran around like a madman in Oogie Boogie’s lair.

The trail was dotted with cosy stop points to toast marshmallows or buy a mulled wine or hot chocolate, and the pace was ideal for little legs – long enough to feel like a full, immersive adventure without causing meltdowns or fatigue.

The production values were second to none – no whiff of the infamous Willy’s Chocolate Experience here with its forlorn Oompa Loompas. From top quality staging to breathtaking light displays, the craftsmanship, attention to texture, and detailed illumination make every set piece feel authentic and engaging from every angle.

If you have a young Tim Burton enthusiast in the family – or are one yourself – this is an unmissable seasonal outing that might even land you some rare family photos.

General admission prices start at £32 for adults, with discounted tickets available for children and seniors. Dog-friendly slots are available on Tuesday evenings from 8pm. For more details on the trail, which runs until January 3, visit thenightmarebeforechristmas.com/arley.

The stunning lakeside town just under an hour from Geneva, making it an ideal autumn day trip whether you’re based in Switzerland or travelling from the UK

With its meandering canals, pastel-hued buildings and mountainous backdrop, Annecy resembles something plucked straight from a storybook. What makes it even more enticing is that this stunning French town is remarkably accessible from Geneva, where I was visiting for a city break.

While staying at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva, I decided to venture across the border into France to discover what makes Annecy such a sought-after destination.

Situated just under an hour away by road, it offers a completely contrasting atmosphere to the refined Swiss city, with cobblestone streets, waterfront promenades, and numerous spots to pause for a crêpe. If you’re organising a European city break and fancy cramming two countries into one journey, Annecy is definitely worth including on your itinerary.

One of the finest aspects of basing yourself in Geneva is how effortlessly you can venture beyond Switzerland itself. While the city possesses its own charm, from its picturesque location to its chocolate boutiques, an excursion to Annecy offers a change of pace without requiring an overnight stay.

Positioned in south-eastern France, Annecy is renowned for its waterways, historic Old Town and spectacular location beside Lake Annecy, with the French Alps offering a dramatic backdrop. It possesses a markedly different character from Geneva, with a more traditional, romantic ambience.

I travelled by FlixBus from Geneva to Annecy, which took approximately 45 minutes. While travel times vary with traffic, the trip was incredibly straightforward.

The Old Town is the ideal starting point for sightseeing, with cobbled streets brimming with independent shops, cafés and eateries. It’s easy to while away an entire afternoon strolling about, browsing for souvenirs and grabbing a bite along the way.

One of the most recognisable landmarks is the Palais de l’île, a historic stone building set on a small island in the Thiou canal. Its distinctive shape and remarkable position in the water make it one of Annecy’s most photographed landmarks.

The town is also pleasingly compact, meaning you can take in most of the key attractions on foot. Even with just a couple of hours to spare, there’s ample time to meander through the streets.

No trip to France would feel quite right without sampling some local cuisine, and Annecy boasts plenty of spots to stop for something to eat.

Crêpes are an obvious go-to for a swift treat, with numerous options readily available throughout the area. You’ll also discover hearty regional dishes inspired by the surrounding Alpine landscape, including tartiflette, a warming combination of potatoes, cheese, onions and bacon.

Beyond the canals and the historic centre, Lake Annecy is yet another reason this town is so extraordinary. Renowned for its crystal-clear waters and stunning Alpine backdrop, the lake offers a spectacular contrast to the narrow lanes of the Old Town.

If the sun is shining, head towards the waterfront to soak up the views across the water and towards the mountains. Boat trips and various other activities are also on offer throughout the warmer months.

For my visit, I was based at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva, which provided a comfortable and opulent starting point for discovering the local region.

Geneva itself offers enough to fill a weekend break, from wandering through the Old Town and seeing its renowned Flower Clock to perusing chocolate boutiques and sampling authentic Swiss fondue.

For those contemplating a comparable getaway, remaining in Geneva and making a day trip to Annecy is a delightful way to enjoy two locations without the inconvenience of switching accommodation.

KIM Kardashian has baffled fans with a mysterious indentation on her back in new photos from her trip to Rome.

The Skims mogul, who just turned 46 this month, debuted what followers called a “backgina” in a polka-dot strapless dress worn at her All’s Fair photoshoot in Italy on October 26.

In her Instagram carousel on Monday, Kim showed off her daring cut-out gown by designer Galia Lahav and styled by Zendaya’s BFF Law Roach.

In one shot where Kim faced away from the camera, fans spotted a strange, deep dent in her back.

One follower cheekily called the mark a “backgina,” seemingly in response to her infamous “pitgina” in 2025.

“What am I looking at?!” one Reddit follower marveled.

“I’m so confused,” another chimed in.

But Kim’s friends, family and Instagram followers largely loved her unusual look.

“The queen diva has arrived!” Kim’s sister Khloe marveled.

“Really love this,” gushed friend Lala Anthony.

Last summer, Kim shocked fans with what they called a “pitgina” in a very tiny bandeau top.

As she waved to onlookers in Venice, a deep indentation in her armpit could be seen.

“Why does it look like a belly button?” one follower asked on a Reddit thread.

“What is that? I’m terrified!” said a second.

New York-based plastic surgeon Dr. Norman M. Rowe, M.D. told The U.S. Sun that the dent could be an “axillary hollowing.”

“An axillary hollowing is essentially a divot or indentation in the armpit area that can result from certain cosmetic procedures,” Dr. Rowe said.

“The most common causes include liposuction to the upper arm or armpit, an arm lift or brachioplasty, or breast augmentation when the implant is placed through the transaxillary route—that is, through an incision in the armpit.

“In these procedures, tissue is removed or repositioned in a way that can leave behind visible contour changes, especially in someone lean like Kim Kardashian.”

Kim has not commented on the “pitgina” or “backgina” talk, or accusations she underwent liposuction procedures.

Everyone had their reasons for joining the trip. Louisa from south London was putting her life back together after a split from her partner; first-timer Tim was strapping on ski boots following years of hesitation; and Lexi from Bristol had a classic case of the non-skiing boyfriend.

I was there because I needed a ski gang. None of my friends ski, and my brother was out of action with an injury. Not only that, I needed a good night’s sleep. I love my two-year-old son dearly, but I have somehow spawned an insomniac – still waking four times a night. Weary from bedtime battles, Holly, my partner, bluntly pointed out we could both benefit from “a temporary break from family life”. In other words: separate holidays.

Holly arranged a walking trip with friends; I opted for a week’s skiing in the French ski resort of Les Deux Alpes with Friendship Travel, a specialist operator in solo travel for more than 20 years. They find a chalet, fill it with solo skiers, provide travel, most meals and group ski lessons – that’s the basic service.

We were staying in a comfortable, largeish chalet just back from the resort’s mile-long drag. Entering a group holiday with strangers is a leap into the unknown. I was greeted by Sam and Mike, our (thankfully) low-key hosts, shown to my private room (you can save by bunking up with a same sex stranger), then introduced to my fellow holidaymakers. It turned out that there were 17 of us – nine women, eight men – and we were whisked into the lounge for a briefing and welcome drink. The atmosphere was upbeat and easy, and we gathered round one large table for an excellent three-course dinner.

Most Friendship Travel guests are aged between 35 and 65, and our group was at the top end of that range. There was Vivienne, a retired nurse from Cumbria who had just lost her partner, and Adriana, a “silver splitter” relishing retirement. For a few – myself included – it was the first such holiday, but many were inveterate solo travellers, with Ivyon, a former production operator from Bridgend, clocking up more than 90 trips.

The first morning, we set off to our ski lockers at the bottom of the slopes (tip: I booked my equipment hire in advance, saving €40). The group naturally fragmented, allowing small cliques to form – people relaxed as they started to identify potential après buddies.

I skied with Elaine, Clemmie, James and our guide, Luke, in the “level 4 advanced” group (we were asked to rate our ability beforehand). The backbone of Les Deux Alpes, the new Jandri 3S cable car, whisked us up to an altitude of 3,200 metres in 17 minutes – instead of the previous 40. Above broken clouds, we paused to admire the astonishing jagged peaks of the Écrins national park.

We blasted down a mixture of broad blue and red runs, plus some not overly challenging blacks. Although none of us had met before, we quickly settled into a rhythm, looking out for one another as the snow fell softly. There’s safety in numbers, especially on the off-piste sections. “I’d never have tried that alone,” said Clemmie.

Afternoons brought more skiing, followed by hands-in-the-air après at Skandal – reopened in 2025 following an extension – with a DJ on a packed terrace. Around sundown, the chalet WhatsApp group would start to ping. “Polar Bear Pub, anyone?” would be a typical message, often sent by Mícheál from Armagh, a dependable partner for a pint.

Solo travel has undergone a perception shift in recent decades, according to Colum McLornan, who founded Friendship Travel in 1999. “Travelling alone was often seen as unconventional, and for many it carried a stigma. But travellers are increasingly seeking independence, flexibility and personal growth. What was once viewed with hesitation is now celebrated, and solo holidays have become one of the fastest-growing segments in the industry,” he said.

At times, group etiquette could be a minefield: nobody likes waiting for latecomers (me); is it rude to always sit in the same seat at breakfast? (probably); is it OK to peel away from the group and ski by oneself? (up to a point); will I look like a skinflint if I buy my own wine? (absolutely, but life’s too short for plonk).

Honourable mention to Steve, a jolly retired doctor from north London. I enjoyed his vivid stories of cruising the Yangtze River, and skiing with his father in Austria during the late 1950s. Despite our age gap, we struck up a bond that lasted all week. Naturally, not all guests are interesting and fun. One seemingly endless dinner conversation about printer cartridges had me dreaming of Netflix in my room.

Then, suddenly, I found myself hugging my ski gang goodbye, bound for the train. Would I go solo again? Yes. Our hosts were helpful without being intrusive, the skiing superb (especially the high-altitude stuff on Glacier de Mont-de-Lans) and I met people I will stay in touch with. Best of all, I finally got some sleep.

The trip was provided by Friendship Travel. A seven-night package with a private room in a shared chalet, daily breakfast and afternoon tea, dinner with wine on five evenings, and six days of group ski lessons in Les Deux Alpes, costs from £1,820pp. Return rail travel from London to Grenoble was provided by Eurostar

WHAT happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas – right? Wrong.

A local taxi driver gave me a piece of wisdom: the only thing that stays in Vegas is the money you spend there. So it’s best to spend it wisely.

Las Vegas can be hard on your wallet but if you make the right blow-the-budget choices, while also finding cheaper or even free things to do, you can have the experience without going into the red.

It isn’t just a city, it’s sensory overload sat in the middle of a desert with fine weather all year round.

If you want a full Vegas movie moment, you can’t beat a helicopter ride.

Flying over the Strip at night is just amazing and the experience starts from £74.

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The city lights look insane, with the Sphere lit up below you and those legendary Vegas hotels buzzing with neon.

This is the kind of experience you’ll remember for ever and, with the money you’ve saved elsewhere, it’s a splurge that’s genuinely worth it.

For a slightly cheaper thrill, at £26 per person, the High Roller observation wheel is a must.

Do it at sunset to get the most incredible views, or at night to see the strip lit up in all its glory — and if you’re heading out after, you can opt for their Happy Half Hour, where cocktails are served to you on the big wheel.

The Neon Museum is also great value. You can stroll by a whole host of retired Vegas signs lit up and preserved.

From this month, there’s a new addition — a Formula 1 sign made for the inaugural 2023 event.

Catching a show at the astonishing Sphere will set you back £450 per person for decent seats.

But for a more intimate — and affordable — night out, The Party at Superfrico, in the Cosmopolitan hotel is perfect.

The two-hour show includes a live circus, burlesque and comedy acts, plus a glass of bubbly and a three-course dinner for £130 per person.

There are even things to do in Vegas that won’t cost you a penny.

The Bellagio fountains are an absolute must-see.

Exploring Fremont Street, the neon-drenched beating heart of Old Vegas, also costs nothing.

Famous for its cheap drinks, historic casinos and continuous outdoor party atmosphere, Fremont Street also has free live concerts, street performers and buskers.

That old-school charm abounds, too, at the Flamingo, one of the oldest hotels on the Strip.

And just when you think Vegas is all nights out, neon and noise, it pulls another card from the deck: The Valley of Fire.

As a keen hiker, this is one of the most stunning places I’ve been to.

A six-hour 4×4 Jeep trip with Love Hikes costs from just £74 per person.

You are surrounded by towering red rock formations on walking trails that make you feel like you stepped on to Mars.

Having worked up a hunger, it’s easy to also rack up high bills in Vegas’s fancy Michelin-starred joints. But there are value offerings, too.

If you want something quick and delicious, Tacos El Gordo is king. This family-owned chain has multiple locations across Las Vegas.

Melt-in-the-mouth meats are piled high on corn tacos, alongside chopped onions, coriander and a dollop of creamy guacamole sauce or salsa. And even better, they cost around £3 a piece. Three would easily make for a hearty meal.

Good Pie Pizza in the Arts District is another no-brainer for a quick slice that hits the spot. It costs from just £4.50 and is perfect to munch while you explore the local vintage shops and street art.

For brunch that feels like a meal and a show, Hash House A Go Go is great. Huge portions include their famous sage fried chicken and waffles. One plate easily feeds two, making this one of the best-value food options in town.

Kusa Nori at Resorts World was the ultimate plot twist. Forget overpriced hotel sushi, this place delivers super-fresh fish and huge portions. Or for even more savings, head to Happy Hour at the Bar and Lounge. from 4pm to 10pm. Sunday to Thursday. Enjoy sushi rolls and beers from £6.50.

And while you could quite easily not sleep while in Vegas, it is advised from time to time.

I split my stay between the Vdara hotel and the Conrad at Resorts World. These two hotels look like they belong in the movie Ocean’s Eleven, but don’t come with a crazy price tag.

Vdara is just off the Strip and, crucially, has no casino. It’s a lovely stay with great views, a gym, spa — and rooms that come with kitchenettes, which means you can save on breakfasts and snacks.

Conrad at Resorts World is a shiny, new and very Vegas hotel. Reminiscent of a shopping mall that decided to wear a tuxedo, it has slot machines, shops, a wellness centre, and a range of great restaur-ants, including Kusa Nori.

Book far enough in advance — midweek and in low-season between July and August and November and January — and you can snag rooms from just £46 a night.

Vegas will never be cheap but you can double the fun without going bust.

THE sound of bugles, trumpets and tubas fills the street as a parade of horses trot towards The Royal Palace.

I always thought Buckingham Palace’s changing of the guard was impressive, but shiny silver helmets off to the Swedish Army who, decked out in pristine blue uniforms, have us completely captivated for a full 45 minutes.

“It’s like being in a movie!” my five-year-old son Raffy shouts above the beat of kettle drums halfway through.

And he’s right. In the picturesque setting of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s historic old town, it is an incredible spectacle. And even better – it doesn’t cost a penny. Or krona, rather.

I like big buns

Your wallets will, however, take a hit in Gamla Stan’s winding, cobbled streets, which are brimming with gift shops, such as Liten Amanda with its Nordic home decor (Litenamanda.se), plus bistros like Petit Pastis (Pastis.se) and confectioner Konfektyr & Glass offering an eye-boggling array of treats.

We search for the tiny Iron Boy statue hidden in a courtyard, before ordering a sizeable cinnamon bun, coffees and hot chocolates with lashings of cream for £28, at Kaffekoppen in Stortorget Square (Cafekaffekoppen.se), then chancing upon vintage H&M and antique glassware at charity shop Stockholms Stadsmissions nearby (Stadsmissionen.se).

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Stockholm city consists of 14 islands connected by bridges. On Djurgården, we all stand in awe as we first set eyes on Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage, its intricate carvings painstakingly restored.

A bonus for my teen self (in the temporary exhibition) is seeing Rose’s dress and Heart of the Ocean necklace from the film Titanic, while learning about director James Cameron’s 2012 deep-sea expedition 10,000 feet down to the ocean floor, and squeezing into a replica capsule. Adult entry costs £18.50, under-18s are free (Vasamuseet.se).

Mamma Mia!

The kids’ favourite outing is the neighbouring ABBA Museum. Poppy, seven, adores the greatest hits album (thanks to her Yoto music player), and despite being a tad overpriced, it’s undoubtedly a super-fun interactive space with lots of opportunities to dress up and perform like – and even alongside – the band (in hologram form), pose for an album cover, rock out in a silent disco and ogle the showstopping stage costumes.

Adult entry costs from £20.50, kids over seven from £8.50 (Abbathemuseum.com).

On one of our days on Djurgården, we tuck into shrimps piled atop egg mayo and syrup bread, £18, while the kids scoff pancakes with cream and jam, £7.50, bathed in sunshine on cafe Skroten’s terrace.

There’s free bread, butter and lingonberry juice on offer, too (Skrotens.se). Later, we hit Skansen, home to a farm, zoo, funfair and a historic town with glassblowers, pottery studio and bakery.

The children are wide-eyed at both the playful bears and the molten glass being transformed into chic confetti lampshades. Adult entry costs £23.50, under-12s are free (Skansen.se).

Viking vibes

At dinner that night, a roar fills the dining hall as our host announces the arrival of more guests – this time from the US – with a horn and a bellow.

I pause devouring my crawfish and prawn soup, £13.50, to join in the hollering.

We’re at Viking restaurant Aifur, and while it may be touristy, Raffy again gets all the film-set feels when he’s declared a “baby Viking” and presented with a giant sword to look after.

Thinking his night couldn’t get any better, and just as a musician begins playing the hurdy-gurdy (Google it!), the waitress presses souvenir coins into both his and Poppy’s palms (Aifur.se).

Continuing the theme, the next morning we learn how to fight and write like a warrior at the Viking Museum, which is worth a stop, even if it’s just to lunch at its restaurant Eld.

Highlights include Ukrainian gnocchi with smoked feta, £22, deer medallions with black garlic and potato gratin, £22.50, and the pretty harbour views (Thevikingmuseum.com).

Isle be back

The sweet spot for visiting Sweden with kids is balmy mid-August, just after the Swedes return to school. Keen to get a taste of the Stockholm Archipelago, home to more than 30,000 islands, we take the 43X train from Stockholm City station to Västerhaninge, catch the 846 bus to Årsta Brygga and then hop on the 21 boat to Utö.

Although it sounds complicated, it’s super-simple, and for our transport-mad kids, the hour-and-a-half journey in itself is thrilling.

But Utö, all rugged landscapes, pine forests and sparkling sea, is the real thrill. Photos really don’t capture its beauty.

We kip in one of hotel Utö Värdshus’ sweet self-catering cottages, which cost from £101 per night, and at the restaurant that evening, we dine on buttered kingfish with potato, leek and cheese pie and crayfish broth, £29, while the kids wolf down steak with Béarnaise sauce and fries, £10.50 (Utovardshus.se).

Holidaying on the island is all about hiking, biking and the wonderfully wild beaches.

One afternoon is spent picnicking at Barnens Bad beach, not far from our cottage – its crystal-clear shallow water is perfect for kids, and we’re joined by only one other family, who stylishly arrive and depart by kayak.

The next day, we set off on a 11km bike ride (daily hire costs £15 per adult, £11 per child).

We pass colourful wooden houses and breathtaking vistas to Stora Sand, a wide expanse of white beach, which again we only have to share with one other couple.

Sandcastle building and chasing waves makes for a blissful few hours, topped off only by a wild moose deciding to clumsily gallop across our path on our ride home.

I fear that the kids’ tales of this trip may sound a little far-fetched when they get back home and share them with friends. But Sweden really has proved super (trouper).