In the context of beverage pros, you might consider Jason Lee something of a spiritual counselor. He works with restaurants where the culinary viewpoints are exceptionally strong — Baroo, Pijja Palace and n/soto line his résumé — and creates specific, complex cocktails that further integrate those culture-based flavors into the experience. Lee is currently bar director at Darling in West Hollywood, the California debut of nationally acclaimed chef Sean Brock. Like many superlative talents who move to Los Angeles, Brock desires to know fresh terrain, to respectfully reflect the city back to itself through his style of cuisine. Many of us, meanwhile, are simply hankering for a taste of his generation-defining Southern cooking. Let’s consider all this at Darling over one of Lee’s drinks. “Almond” is a deeply savory keeper fusing tequila, sherry, roasted almonds and doenjang, brightened by the herbal liqueur Génépi and lemon. Most cocktails roll closely with the seasons, such as an autumnal warmer involving bourbon, brandy, gooseberries and winter squash distilled to its essence. Come early for a dry-aged steak burger, with a limited run of 24 per night, which makes for top-notch drinking food
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