This spot near Howick is a secluded Northumberland cove with dramatic cliffs, a smuggling history, and connections to Earl Grey’s historic Bathing House
The historic spot is hidden within the cliffs(Image: daverhead via Getty Images)
Nestled amongst the clifftops in a cove near Howick in Northumberland lies this stunning bay, boasting both historical and environmental importance.
Rumbling Kern is an isolated haven comprising dramatic iron-stained rocks and a small beach visible at low tide. Its distinctive location and cliff formation earned it this evocative name, as the geography helps generate a rumbling noise during stormy conditions.
When waves crash into the bay and strike the rocks, visitors can detect a profound and eerie sound beneath, rumbling like distant thunder. This distinctive acoustic phenomenon is unique to the location and lends an otherworldly quality to the already remote destination.
One keen explorer who documents their journeys on YouTube, Wilderhope Adventures, explained that the cove proves challenging to locate, as it doesn’t even appear on maps without entering the postcode for the nearby farm. She said: “I’ve seen pictures of this, but this is very, very cool. I can imagine this being a really cool swimming spot because it’s very protected.”
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Historical significance
The fascinating features don’t end there, however, as historical records indicate it served a particularly intriguing role in smuggling operations.
Given its coastal position and remoteness from populated areas, the cove proved popular for landing illicit cargo, most frequently whisky. They would subsequently move these goods along the remainder of the Northumberland coastline.
The neighbouring village of Boulmer was particularly renowned as the ‘smuggling capital’ during that era, with the kern representing just one element of a far more extensive network.
Bathing House
The cove provides stunning vistas of the Bathing House, nestled peacefully along the shoreline as a 19th-century residence constructed by the former prime minister.
It originally belonged to Charles Grey (2nd Earl Grey), whilst nearby Howick Hall served as the ancestral home where he was raised. This property functioned as a gateway for them to enjoy the great outdoors.
Throughout his time here, the earl ordered extensions to the swimming area along the tide, creating additional fresh seawater pools. On the upper floor of the property, they even created a vantage point for his wife to watch their children bathing below in the specially designed pools.
Today the property is available for holiday rentals as a cottage for friends and family, with bookings filling up rapidly. It continues under the stewardship of the Howick Trustees Ltd, a charitable trust.
Howick Hall
A brief journey from the scenic Bathing House and cove brings you to Howick Hall, a Grade II listed structure which was home to the Earls Grey. The very same prime minister, after whom Earl Grey tea takes its name, lived there throughout his lifetime, and it is now accessible to the public.
Howick Hall was originally constructed in 1782, but sadly a fire in 1926 ravaged much of the interior, necessitating significant renovations. The ever-expanding family vacated the property following the passing of the 5th Earl Grey in the 1970s.
By 1973, Lord Howick had transformed the west wing into his family residence, where they still live today. The ground floor is open to the public, offering a glimpse into the rich history of this family and their ancestral home over the centuries.
The hall’s grounds boast an array of enchanting gardens, conceived by the 5th Earl Grey, and an arboretum spanning more than 65 acres. Nestled within this verdant landscape is the ideal spot for a tea break at the Earl Grey Tea House, where tradition and legacy live on.