Moroccan

DREAMING of five-star winter sun without the five-star price tag? Check out Morocco’s wild north-west coast.

The Mazagan Beach & Golf Resort is vast. Sprawling across 250 hectares — roughly the size of 350 football pitches — it sits alongside four miles of empty and pristine Atlantic coastline.

The resort is built in the style of an ancient Moroccan citadel, with ochre- plastered walls capped with crenellated roofline and towers.

Rooms are set around central courtyards and landscaped gardens.

Long reflecting pools, marble fountains and rows of manicured palms are framed by grand horseshoe arches decorated with intricate, carved plasterwork.

With 15 restaurants and bars, an 18-hole golf course, spa and endless activities, my stay revealed a luxury hotel that comes at a surprisingly affordable price, with rooms from £145 a night.

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And you get a lot of room for your money. My spacious, modern room had fabulous ocean views with delightful Moroccan-inspired touches, including hanging lanterns flanking the king-size bed.

Sliding open the balcony doors rewards you with a sweeping panorama of the Atlantic surf crashing against the sand.

Early morning, with a sweet tea in hand, I caught sight of horses galloping along the beach.

Surf instructors were waxing down their boards and lining up life jackets ready for a day of training tourists how not to topple into the swell.

But there was no time to dawdle, with so many activities at my finger tips.

First stop was the resort’s award- winning spa for a double dose of indulgence.

I was treated to a deeply relaxing hot stones massage, followed by a traditional grand hammam ritual. Inside a glowing, marble-clad steam room, I was bathed, scrubbed and polished top-to-toe with black soap, oils and eucalyptus.

Staff said the locals insist on scrubbing down with one of these treatments at least once a week — and after seeing the glow on my own rejuvenated skin, I can certainly see why.

Suitably refreshed, it was time for some high-octane adventure.

And that’s where Mazagan feels less like a hotel and more like a high-end luxury playground.

The golf course, designed by Gary Player, is the longest in Morocco, stretching over 7,400 yards.

Then there is North Africa’s largest casino (housing 37 gaming tables and nearly 400 slot machines open 23 hours a day), a 22ft climbing wall, go-karting tracks, paintball fields, pickleball courts and more.

And at the centre of the maze of courtyards that connects the more than 400 rooms, a glistening pool invites you in for a dip — though I had barely any time to kick off my flip-flops before I was on to the next activity.

I upped the ante with a thrilling quad bike ride along the resort’s flat, wide sands, feeling the salty Atlantic spray as we neared the water’s edge before heading into the rolling sand dunes and scrubland surrounding the resorts.

On longer drives, your guides will even take you inland to zip through the neighbouring eucalyptus and pine forests that fringe the coastline.

And after some serious speed, I switched to a very different horse power with a gentle ride along the beach.

The hotel’s onsite stables are home to local barb and Arab-barb horses.

Historically bred by the North African cavalry and Berber horsemen, these magnificent beasts are sure-footed in the soft sand, calm-tempered and well-accustomed to the heat and Atlantic winds.

Heading out on to the broad, tidal flats we were soon trotting along at a fair pace on the wide open, empty sands before steering our steers towards the coastal forest trails, lined with fragrant mimosa.

All that activity means treating yourself when it comes to food and drink and Mazagan doesn’t disappoint.

Trying just a fraction of the resort’s 15 restaurants and bars, I feasted on rich, fragrant tagines, fresh seafood and mountains of velvety houmous.

Sel de Mer was an absolute highlight. Here, the catch of the day is transformed into culinary perfection.

Select your own from the fresh, tempting line-up resting on a bed of crushed ice and then choose to have it grilled on the plancha or oven-baked, served up with a choice of sauces.

For a more relaxed dining experience, the Beach Barbecue serves up freshly-grilled meats, fish and vegetables while your feet are in the sands.

Alongside the barbecue there’s a buffet of fresh salads, Moroccan cooked salads, couscous and freshly-baked flatbreads.

And for a truly Moroccan touch, Al Firma offers an open-air setting with traditional Bedouin and Berber carpets, low seating and lanterns as well as traditional tagines with vegetables from the onsite farm garden.

I topped it all off with cocktails at the Casablanca-inspired lounge bar — swathed in royal green velvet drapes and playing some live weekend jazz.

With adrenalin-charged activities alongside top-tier pampering, Mazagan delivers a great winter break option without breaking the bank.

Rabat, Morocco – “I was surveilled not because of a specific article. I was investigating land dispossession in Morocco. I then learned I was a Pegasus target,” Omar Radi, a journalist and human rights defender, told Al Jazeera, referring to the mobile surveillance tool developed by Israeli company NSO Group.

The findings emerged in June 2020, when Amnesty International Security Lab examined his phone. Radi, now based in Germany, said he had spent two years, from 2018 to 2020, noticing signs including his phone’s battery draining quickly, its temperature rising and the network slowing down.

The physical surveillance, he said, was barely discreet.

“They came every day to get a daily report from the parking attendants in my street, the shops I used to go to, and my friends,” he said. “I would sometimes turn around and walk towards the people following me to take photographs, but they ran quickly and hid their faces.”

His case is among four detailed in a new Amnesty International report, We Start With the Verdict: Inside Morocco’s Surveillance Machine, produced with 14 media organisations and coordinated by the international network of journalists Forbidden Stories.

The other three are Fouad Abdelmoumni, a veteran activist; Abdessadak El Bouchattaoui, a human rights lawyer; and Hicham Mansouri, a journalist in exile who had been imprisoned in 2015 on charges of adultery and sexual exploitation, which Amnesty describes as trumped-up.

The report draws on interviews with a whistleblower using the pseudonym Safir, a former employee of Morocco’s General Directorate for Territorial Surveillance (DGST). Amnesty said it corroborated key parts of Safir’s testimony with independent sources, technical evidence and interviews with 10 people identified as surveillance targets, including Radi.

“The Amnesty report connected many dots as to what I was living and feeling while I was under tight surveillance,” Radi said.

“It explains the extraordinary aspect of my police interrogations and my trial, where many of my rights weren’t respected, because even the judicial police and the judges were under monitoring,” he added.

Amnesty identifies the DGST as the agency behind the deployment of Pegasus spyware in Morocco and documents what it describes as abuses of the spyware against activists and journalists between 2017 and 2021.

Morocco denies surveillance

Morocco has previously rejected Amnesty’s allegations that its authorities used Pegasus to target journalists, activists and other critics.

In statements issued in 2020 and 2022, Moroccan authorities challenged Amnesty to provide material evidence supporting its claims.

Amnesty said it wrote to Moroccan authorities four weeks before publishing its latest report and invited them to respond, but received no response.

Al Jazeera also sought comment from Moroccan officials but had not received a response at the time of publication.

Moroccan media have also challenged the latest report. Le360 cited arguments that the presence of a phone number in Pegasus targeting records does not, by itself, prove that a device was infected or establish who ordered an alleged attack.

The outlet also argued that Amnesty had not provided the conclusive technical and material evidence Moroccan authorities had demanded.

The report says Morocco’s Pegasus operations were fully active by October 2017, pointing to the case of human rights lawyer El Bouchattaoui, whose number was entered into the system in September 2017 and selected for targeting weeks before he received an infection link by text message.

Amnesty said its analysis of Pegasus records matched 103 Moroccan phone numbers to individuals identified as potential targets between September and December 2017. Of those, 65 were identifiable as civil society members, including 34 human rights defenders, 22 journalists and media workers, five lawyers and four academics.

According to Amnesty, Safir described a surveillance apparatus that combined digital and physical methods. Targeted individuals were secretly filmed and recorded in detention, offices, cars, cafes and even bedrooms, he said.

Phone shops, he added, were coopted to sell targets devices infected with spyware. Neighbours of human rights defenders, he said, were recruited as informants to file daily reports on their movements.

Safir also described the use of remote control systems (RCS) at internet cafes. Field agents would identify which cafe a target was visiting, he said, giving the DGST access to activity on machines it had already infected and allowing an operator to track calls, read messages, access photographs and record audio.

The report says similar tactics were used against activist Abdelmoumni, who was secretly filmed at home with his fiancee in 2021. Abdelmoumni said he believed the footage was captured through a hidden camera in an air-conditioning unit, based on the recording’s angle.

Safir described the episode as a “textbook case” of a DGST surveillance and cleanup operation designed to leave no trace.

Journalists describe pressure and intimidation

Taoufik Bouachrine, one of Morocco’s best-known journalists and host of the Talk on Politics podcast, was not named in Amnesty’s report but described a similar pattern.

“In Morocco, as in all Arab countries, inventive methods are used to silence journalists and deter them from investigative journalism, particularly when it concerns the unlawful exercise of power, financial corruption, and the intertwining of political authority and money,” he told Al Jazeera.

The first method, he said, is fabricating criminal cases against journalists, “often involving allegations of sexual misconduct in a conservative society that amount to a journalist’s moral execution”.

The second, he said, is a smear campaign run through armies of online trolls and operatives who target journalists and their families.

Bouachrine, 57, was arrested in 2018 on charges of rape and human trafficking and sentenced to 15 years in prison. He has denied the charges, saying his prosecution was tied to his journalism.

The United Nations Working Group on Arbitrary Detention found Bouachrine’s detention arbitrary and said he had been subjected to judicial harassment. The European Parliament adopted a resolution calling for his release, along with other journalists tried on similar charges.

He served more than six years before being released under a royal pardon. By then, Akhbar Al-Youm, the newspaper he founded, had already closed. Bouachrine said authorities had cut off its advertising revenue.

“This is another method of destroying investigative journalism,” he added, “turning off the advertising tap and leaving a newspaper to die slowly.”