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When will Eaton Canyon reopen? L.A. County officials explain

Los Angeles County officials aim to break ground on the new Eaton Canyon Nature Center before 2028, with plans to construct a facility that can withstand the region’s changing climate and future disasters.

The previous nature center, which replaced the original Robert M. McCurdy Nature Center that burned down in 1993, was destroyed in the Eaton fire last January. The fire not only destroyed the structure but also a large library and several decades’ worth of archives, and it also killed the reptiles that lived inside the center.

It took about five years to rebuild and open the last nature center. L.A. County Parks Director Norma Edith García-Gonzalez said after the design phase is completed, which could be soon, the county and the architect firm hired for the project will plan out the construction phase.

“We modeled 100-year patterns of wind, fire and flood so that when we build back, we are building back with resistance, and that is able to guide how we plant [and] what type of plants, and how we build, [including] how we build back trails,” García-Gonzalez said.

A woman with thick framed glasses in a white shirt with a light green shawl speaking to a crowd.

Norma Edith García-Gonzalez, director of L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation, speaks during an Eaton Canyon design meeting in mid-September.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

The biggest impediment to rebuilding, though, is funding. The county has about $16.2 million in state money, about half of what county officials think is needed to build a new nature center, she said. García-Gonzalez said she hopes the philanthropic community will step up to fill the gaps, but county leaders have noticed that “philanthropy goes from one hot issue to another,” and interest to donate to fire recovery is cooling.

In this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will provide an update on the design plans for the new nature center and when we can expect to hike again in Eaton Canyon — and how you can help with the canyon’s restoration too.

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First, let’s discuss a little bit of the history of the area.

The Eaton Canyon Natural Area, managed by L.A. County Parks and Recreation, is a 190(ish)-acre swath of land at the foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains near Altadena.

“Originally called ‘El Precipicio’ by the Spanish settlers because of its steep gorges, it is now named after Judge Benjamin Eaton, who built the first Fair Oaks Ranch House in 1865 not far from Eaton Creek,” according to the Eaton Canyon Nature Center Associates, a volunteer-run education and stewardship group. “Judge Eaton was the first to use irrigation from the creek to grow grapes on the slopes.”

The canyon has long been a fascination of adventuresome L.A. residents.

Hikers cross a creek with rocks and boulders of various sizes in a canyon full of trees and plants.

The hike to Eaton Canyon Falls in the San Gabriel Mountains before the Eaton fire last January.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

In 1921, writer Frances Mathilda Purdy wrote for The Times that few people knew of the “hidden, but very easily accessible waterfall” in Eaton Canyon. Purdy outlined a few ways to access the canyon and reach the falls, including a shorter route where visitors “after alighting from motor, or stage,” could take a small flight of stone steps near the Mt. Wilson Toll Road bridge.

I chuckled when I read Purdy’s suggestion that this particular route was “perfectly comfortable for those who have arrived on the scene in city garb.” Apparently, underprepared hikers have been coming to Eaton Canyon for more than 100 years. What do you think was the 1920s version of hiking in flip-flops?

For the more rugged adventurer, Purdy laid out a “serpentine trail” that leads to “such lovely possibilities for the pleasure-seeking jaded worker, who, from only one afternoon spent in this quietly entrancing corner of the great outdoors, will return, refreshed and invigorated to meet the daily grind with a mind stored full of the charm of Lower Eaton Canyon.”

A woman stands at a lectern speaking into a microphone before a slideshow depicting a park with trees and an orange circle

Architect Anne Mooney of Sparano + Mooney Architecture speaks about a site plan for the next Eaton Canyon Nature Center.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

It wasn’t until 1930 that Pasadena set aside property that the city owned for a bird and game sanctuary in Eaton Canyon and Eaton Wash, preserving the land from development, according to a historical record compiled by the nature center associates.

There was interest in doing more.

Pasadena Park Superintendent Gilbert Skutt, who served from 1923 to 1936, wanted to see a large scenic public park in Eaton Canyon similar to what the city had built along the Arroyo Seco, according to city records. “He sought to correct the imbalance in the distribution of park space in Pasadena, which favored the west side of town,” according to a historical document. “During the Depression, however, the city could not afford to purchase the land.”

Over time, the city started working with county officials on Eaton Canyon Regional Park, eventually giving the entire project to the county.

In 1931, the L.A. County Board of Supervisors considered financing a 1,000-acre “gigantic regional park system” for the area, according to The Times’ archives, but that idea apparently never fully came to fruition.

Thankfully, in 1950, landowner Mary Beatrice Fox sold the canyon portion of her property to L.A. County to use for a park, “with a provision that mammals are not to be kept in cages,” according to a park history compiled by the Eaton Canyon Nature Center Associates.

A hiker in a gray hoodie attempts not to fall into about a creek that's about six inches deep.

A hiker slips in a creek in Eaton Canyon after a 2023 storm.

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Then, in 1958, naturalist Louise A. Luckan moved her “nature appreciation operation from the Eaton Canyon Golf Course to Eaton Canyon Park,” according to the organization’s history.

Soon, L.A. County officials set aside $154,797 — about $1.7 million in today’s dollars — for the Robert M. McCurdy Nature Center. They had big plans for the facility, which was to include two classrooms, an office, museum, library, display area, gift shop, laboratory and an auditorium that could seat 200.

“This park will be an outstanding facility — the only one of its kind in magnitude this side of Chicago,” Supervisor Warren Dorn said in a 1962 Times story.

The nature center opened in 1963, and became popular among scouting and school groups, to whom naturalists taught about the local flora and fauna. By the early 1970s, more than 2,000 school children were regularly attending lectures at the nature center, according to Times archives. The students wrote thank-you notes to the park staff, including one that read, “I think it was nice of you to buy this park instead of someone buying it for houses and factories. Because if they did, it would ruin this beautiful land.”

A person with shoulder-length dark hair in a maroon V-neck sweater stands before a crowd presenting before photos of bugs.

L.A. County sustainability policy director Rebecca Ferdman talks with community stewards about how to educate and engage the public about the goldspotted oak borer, a pernicious invasive beetle that destroys oak trees, during a meeting at Eaton Canyon Nature Center in 2024.

(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

But, in 1993, the canyon’s first nature center was destroyed by the Kinneloa fire. The next nature center didn’t reopen until 1998.

Karen Mateer, vice president of the Eaton Canyon Nature Center Associates, said for more than 25 years, that nature center served as a meeting place and an educational hub for the millions who visited the canyon over the years.

Mateer, who started volunteering in 1998, said many local schoolchildren first experienced the concept of “nature” at Eaton Canyon on field trips. Volunteers would regularly hear from adults, who pursued recreation- or nature-focused careers, that the first place they ever hiked or learned about their natural habitat was at Eaton Canyon.

“Eaton Canyon also, for the community, for those of us up here who lost so much, it is familiar and is a place you often go for recreation, for solace,” Mateer said. “It means a lot.”

At a presentation last week, architect Anne Mooney said her firm analyzed where to best place the new nature center, and not wanting to destroy any existing habitat or take down any of the area’s oaks or other trees, recommended the new building be placed east of the previous site.

It was easy for visitors to miss the previous nature center, because it was situated in a thick stand of oaks, and the new location will allow the nature center to serve as a gateway to the park, as it will be near the canyon’s trailhead.

“The nature center has always been more than just a building,” Mooney said. “It’s really been a gateway to an experience of learning about nature, experiencing a connection to the wildlands and developing stewardship of the canyon. We want to continue that tradition.”

A map of part of Eaton Canyon Natural Area, modeling where trees and structures are or will be, with a diagram about wind.

A diagram of the wind analysis conducted by architects as they assessed where to place Eaton Canyon’s new nature center.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

The new nature center, as shown in the current design plan, is horseshoe-shaped with a covered entryway. It will be constructed using durable, fire-resistant materials, including stone and steel. Builders would also construct curved walls to serve as windbreaks, which would not only slow gusts but also divert airborne embers during a fire.

The proposed designs also include roof and eave sprinklers that could pre-wet the building and nearby surrounding area with a specialized firefighting foam during a wildfire.

“We recognize that the fire is a recurring part of the ecology, and we will have another fire,” Mooney said. “We’re working to design something that allows us to be more prepared in the future.”

The walkway leading to the entrance of the Eaton Canyon Nature Center is surrounded by burnt destruction.

The Eaton Canyon Nature Center, a 7,600-square-foot building, was destroyed in the Eaton fire. It housed live animals, exhibits, classrooms, a gift shop and more.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The design also includes a research lab, a learning lab or classroom, a large multipurpose space that can fit an estimated 150 people when seated (or 300 people when standing), an exhibit space, a gift shop and a large courtyard in the center with shade, seating and live animal enclosures.

Officials stressed that the design is preliminary and dependent on funding. Anyone who wants to see the design for themselves and provide their feedback can attend the next public meeting, From Ashes to Action: Reimagining Eaton Canyon, from 5 to 7 p.m. Oct. 7 at the L.A. County Arboretum.

Three people stand at a table with schematics of a park design

Kevin Singleton, center, points to the Eaton Canyon Nature Center design during a recent county event where officials discussed the future of Eaton Canyon.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

In terms of when hikers will return to the canyon’s trails, García-Gonzalez said the county needs an estimated $8 million to reestablish the trail system. The county has fundraised and received only $900,000 of that.

“We already put that money to work,” García-Gonzalez said, partnering with L.A. Conservation Corps to start rebuilding trails. “But there are some [trails] that really need significant and heavy engineering.”

The county also has to plan its work around the strong winter storms forecasted as a result of El Niño, she said. “We are bracing ourselves for even more damage,” García-Gonzalez said.

The proposed exterior layout of the Eaton Canyon Nature Center

A map of the proposed courtyard of the new Eaton Canyon Nature Center.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

Since the fire, volunteers have donated hundreds of hours to work on restoring the canyon’s habitat.

You can join them. Volunteers meet from 8 to 11:30 a.m. every Friday and the second and fourth Saturday of every month. Participants remove invasive plants that zap up resources for native plants trying to reestablish themselves. Training and tools are provided. You can sign up by visiting signupgenius.com.

“The love, the care, the stewardship, the commitment, the hope, the inspiration of the volunteers is unparalleled,” García-Gonzalez said. “They’re driving us to build back because they’re so committed. They’re all in.”

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3 things to do

A replica of a green military medic truck sits near a field of green grass, trees and a hillside

“MASH,” a military dramedy that aired on CBS from 1972 to 1983, is one of several Hollywood productions filmed at Malibu Creek State Park.

(Courtesy of California State Parks, 2026.)

1. Celebrate 50 years of public land in Calabasas
Malibu Creek State Park will celebrate its past 50 years from 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday at 1925 Las Virgenes Road in Calabasas. Attendees can touch fossils, explore the park‘s trees and make art, all while listening to music and eating from local food trucks. At Stories Under the Stars at 6:30 p.m., a diverse cast of storytellers will teach visitors about the park’s history, culture and science. The L.A. Astronomical Society will host a star party at 8 p.m. Guests are encouraged to carpool or use the free shuttle from Juan Bautista de Anza Park to the park. The event is free, but parking is not. Register at eventbrite.com.

2. Repair the river near Azusa
Volunteers are needed from 8 a.m. to noon Saturday, which is National Public Lands Day, at the Oaks Picnic Area near the San Gabriel River for a cleanup effort. Organized by five community conservation corps groups, including San Gabriel Valley Conservation Corps, volunteers will pick up trash and help clean the river. Register at docs.google.com.

3. Cast a line under a full moon in Castaic
Friends of Castaic Lake will host the organization’s final Moonlight Madness event of the year from 6 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Saturday at Castaic Lake. Guests can fish from the shore, from a boat or not fish at all as they enjoy an evening in the outdoors. Tickets start at $23. Glow sticks required for each participant. Register at givebutter.com.

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The must-read

A man with gray hair and a gray goatee smiles as he leans on a wood fence with a black cane in his hand

Jim Crouch stands in a field with Englemann oaks at the Santa Ysabel Open Space Preserve.

(Sandy Huffaker / For The Times)

Jim Crouch, a retired science teacher near San Diego, noticed how the oak trees around him were disappearing, succumbing to disease, drought and development. Times contributor Jessie Schiewe wrote that Crouch, moved to action, collected acorns and gave away the resulting potted seedlings to others. Now, after planting 10,000 acorns, he dreams of the day he completes his 20,000th seedling. “I’ve never been so ambitious,” he says, “and I’ve never done a project with as much love in it and as little ego.”

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve will be closed until March as construction workers upgrade gas, water, wastewater and communication lines. They also will install new accessible parking stalls and an accessible pedestrian path from the upper parking lot to the restroom and park’s lodge. Times staff writer Christopher Reynolds wrote that the park’s 1,750-acre Torrey Pines reserve attracts about 4 million visitors each year (about the same number as visit Yosemite National Park). Torrey Pines State Beach will remain open through the closure. If you’d hoped to visit this particular park in the fall, consider instead one of 13 places in California that Reynolds recently wrote are ideal to check out in autumn. Warning: As I read the piece, I felt the immediate urge to book campsites at several spots around our state! I am so ready for cozy season.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Can Democrats flip the Senate? Here’s the latest in key races

As Republicans contend with President Trump’s deep unpopularity, Democrats are attempting to seize the opening to take the U.S. Senate in the Nov. 3 midterm elections. Polls have shown Trump with an approval rating consistently below 40%, with no end in sight to the Iran war and voters expressing deep economic anxiety.

Republicans currently hold a 53-47 edge in the Senate, and 35 seats are on the November ballot.

Months of polling indicate that eight Senate seats — six of which are currently held by Republicans — are now up for grabs. Democrats will need to win at least four of them, while holding on to two contested seats currently held by their party, in order to flip the chamber.

Five key races are unexpectedly close, with some polls giving Democrats a better edge than expected, but the outcomes are still in doubt, as swaths of voters remain undecided. The Cook Political Report, a leading forecaster, rates each one a toss-up. Here’s how they are shaping up:

Michigan: El-Sayed vs. Rogers

In perhaps the highest-profile contest, former public health official Abdul El-Sayed is facing Republican Mike Rogers for the seat being vacated by retiring Democratic Sen. Gary Peters.

El-Sayed, aligned with the party’s progressive wing, narrowly defeated moderate Rep. Haley Stevens in a heated Democratic primary. He is looking to rally her supporters as well as disaffected Republican voters.

Rogers is courting independents and a cohort of Jewish Democrats who view El-Sayed’s desire to reduce funding to Israel’s military as a dangerous proposition.

According to a CNN/SSRS poll of likely voters released Sept. 9, El-Sayed led Rogers 47% to 44%, a result within the margin of error. Notably, 26% of respondents said they could still be persuaded to vote for either candidate, leaving the race wide open.

The barbs in this race have become deeply personal, with anti-Muslim rhetoric taking center stage.

In a series of ads and artificial-intelligence-generated images, Republican groups — including the National Republican Senatorial Committee and Front Line Action — have cast El-Sayed as a supporter of terrorism. During speeches and interviews, members of the Trump administration, including the president, have repeatedly referred to the candidate by his full name, Abdulrahman Mohamad El-Sayed.

Rogers has continually drawn attention to a campaign event hosted by El-Sayed that included Hasan Piker — a Los Angeles-based online political commentator who recently drew widespread attention for a 2019 comment that “America deserved 9/11” while discussing blowback against U.S. foreign policy in the Middle East.

El-Sayed has railed against Rogers for refusing to debate and for his endorsement by Trump.

This week, El-Sayed stood alone on the Fox 2 Detroit debate stage after Rogers declined an invitation, dubbing his opponent “Mike Dodgers” on several occasions.

Rogers later accused the moderator of bias toward the Democratic candidate. The candidates have agreed to debate on Oct. 8 and 21.

Texas: Talarico vs. Paxton

State Rep. James Talarico is seeking to become the first Texas Democrat elected to the Senate since 1993.

His Republican opponent, state Atty. Gen. Ken Paxton, received Trump’s endorsement and defeated four-term incumbent Sen. John Cornyn in the primary.

While gaining a seat in Texas has long been a far-off dream for Democrats, Paxton’s controversies have dogged him during the race. A Mason-Dixon Research poll showed the Democrat leading Paxton 46 to 43, in a state that Trump won by nearly 14 points in 2024. Other polls, including one from Insider Advantage, had the margin at a single point.

Paxton is seen as a prominent fixture in the MAGA movement, using his position as attorney general to contest Obama-era clean energy and healthcare acts and launching lawsuits against the Biden administration for its immigration policy.

Talarico has made Paxton’s association with the president a key piece of his campaign, slamming Paxton as “the most corrupt politician in Texas” and spotlighting his impeachment by the Texas House of Representatives in 2023 over allegations of bribery, breach of public trust and misuse of his office to aid a donor. (Paxton survived the impeachment vote and denied wrongdoing.)

Several attack ads on Talarico, launched by Republican political action committees, have focused on his past support for transgender youth and accused him of exaggerating his faith to garner the Christian vote.

Maine: Jackson vs. Collins

Six-term incumbent Republican Sen. Susan Collins is hoping to retain her seat as Democratic challenger Troy Jackson attempts to replicate the grassroots success of former nominee Graham Platner’s campaign.

Jackson, a former state lawmaker, was chosen by Maine Democratic Party delegates to run in place of Platner, who dropped out in July after sexual misconduct allegations against him. A former lumberjack, Jackson shares Platner’s working-class background and is running on Medicare for All and increased taxes for billionaires.

Collins has repeatedly demonstrated her staying power and won reelection in 2020 even as the state went blue in the presidential race. Her willingness to stand up to Trump could become a deciding factor this time around; Collins is working to highlight her votes to block Trump’s $1.8-billion Department of Justice anti-weaponization fund and against the Iran war.

She has mostly stuck to promoting her decades-long record on the campaign trail, which has recently focused on increased healthcare access for seniors, workforce development and Social Security benefit increases.

She has faced criticism from Jackson and others over her vote to confirm Supreme Court Justice Brett M. Kavanaugh, who faced sexual assault allegations, which he denied, and later voted to strike down Roe vs. Wade, which had granted a constitutional right to choose an abortion.

Jackson has had difficulty generating the same enthusiasm among voters as his predecessor, Platner, who consistently held town halls across the state and had a viral social media presence. Over Labor Day weekend, Jackson hosted at least a dozen events up and down Maine to make his first public introductions to voters deep into the cycle.

A recent poll from YouGov shows Jackson narrowly leading the incumbent, 46% to 44%, with a crucial 9% undecided.

Alaska: Peltola vs. Sullivan

Former Democratic Rep. Mary Peltola and incumbent Republican Sen. Dan Sullivan are leading a field of candidates — including another Dan Sullivan — ahead of a ranked-choice general vote.

Alaska hasn’t elected a Democratic senator since 1995, giving Peltola an uphill battle in a state that Trump won by 13 percentage points in 2024.

A late July poll by Change Research showed Peltola in the lead by six percentage points. A more recent poll from Alaska Survey Research had the race within 1 point in favor of Peltola.

Much of the media attention surrounding this race, however, has focused on the third-place candidate, who only received 2.5% of the primary vote — and also happens to be named Dan Sullivan.

Dan J. Sullivan, a retired teacher who made the top four in ranked-choice voting, has been accused by Republicans of being a Democratic plant that could potentially confuse voters. Sullivan has denied these accusations and the Alaska Supreme Court decided to keep him on the ballot.

If none of the candidates receive over 50% of first-place ranked-choice votes — which is likely in this race — the last-place candidate will be eliminated, with their vote distributed to their next choice until one candidate receives a majority of the total.

Iowa: Turek vs. Hinson

In a race that has seen the candidates trade political jabs in separate speeches on the same state fairgrounds, Republican Rep. Ashley Hinson and Democratic state Rep. Josh Turek are nearly neck and neck.

According to a Suffolk University poll, Hinson is leading Turek 45% to 40%, in a state where Trump won by 13 points in 2024. A poll conducted by YouGov, however, has Turek in front by a single point.

GOP incumbent Sen. Joni Ernst elected not to run this year, leaving the seat open for a potential flip.

Turek, a two-time Paralympics gold medalist, has attacked Hinson for past campaign ads in which she said: “I don’t trade stocks, and no one else in Congress should either.” Tucker pointed to the fact that Hinson purchased and sold stocks in Amazon, Tesla and insurance firms after she was elected, according to financial disclosure forms.

In return, Hinson criticized Turek for missing over half of his state Legislature floor votes, and labeled him an “anti-ag” activist.

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3 Los Angeles area hikes with water after the September rains

Hikers trekking along trails around Los Angeles know that, by late summer, most creeks and rivers have dried up for the season.

However, recent rainfall across Southern California has replenished our waterways just enough to bring back a little of their spring and early summer glamour.

In this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will highlight three L.A. trails where you can still find water flowing, offering a cool relief in a year when L.A. residents are sick of humidity, heat and high electric bills.

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Before heading out, here are a few things to remember:

  • Familiarize yourself with what poison oak looks like, as it will be prominent on all of these trails. Its leaves this time of year range from glossy green to red, orange and yellow.
  • Practice seven Leave No Trace principles, including never leaving anything behind such as toilet paper or orange peels.
  • Rocks and boulders in and along creeks will often be slippery from years of erosion. Take good care when climbing them or using them for leverage as you traverse an area.
  • Wear insect repellent. Mosquitoes and ticks are both found along the routes below.
  • Riparian habitats, like creeks flowing through canyons, are home to sensitive creatures including California newts, frogs and toads. Take good care to watch where you’re stepping, ensuring you aren’t crushing one of these little sweeties as you tromp along.

Now that we’ve all agreed to recreate responsibly, let’s talk about those hikes!

Within a canyon of smooth light orange-ish tan rocks, there's a trickling waterfall and small cave with green ferns.

The Santa Ynez waterfall is an 18-foot cascade through a canyon carved by water for thousands of years.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Santa Ynez Waterfall Trail

Distance: 2.2 miles out and back
Elevation gained: About 200 feet
Difficulty: Easy in the beginning with technical aspects near the falls
Dogs allowed: No
Nearest to: Pacific Palisades
Accessible alternative: Inspiration Loop Trail at Will Rogers State Historic Park

The Santa Ynez waterfall trail is a 2.2-mile journey along Santa Ynez Creek in Topanga State Park, shaded by large sycamores, oak trees and the canyon’s walls. You’ll notice a small cave-like structure in the canyon wall shortly upon starting the hike. Unfortunately, other visitors have carved into its sides. Don’t be one of them.

To begin your hike, you will park along Vereda de la Montura. Note that parking isn’t allowed daily between 8 p.m. and 6 a.m.

A small cave-like structure in Santa Ynez Canyon in Topanga State Park.

A small cave-like structure in Santa Ynez Canyon in Topanga State Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I thought I was in the wrong place when I first pulled up, given the trailhead sits in the middle of a neighborhood. I walked northwest along the street and found an open gate with stairs leading down. This is where you’ll start the trail.

I was immediately reminded of Sullivan Canyon (which is about 3 miles away, as the crow flies), as the two canyons feature rocky canyon walls and tall old trees. There are a few times when the trail splits off and returns to itself. Just over half a mile in, though, the trail splits in two, with Santa Ynez Canyon Trail to the west (or left) and the waterfall trail, which you will take to the north or northwest-ish.

A dirt path surrounded by green grasses and shrubs meanders past oak trees that grow straight and at angles.

A lush tree canopy provides shade in Santa Ynez Canyon as hikers head to the waterfall.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The first mile of this trail is primarily a nice stroll northward along a creek, the ground covered in green and brown leaves. However, just over a mile in, if you want to see the waterfall and small cave next to it, you will need to scramble up a large boulder and then rock hop through the creek. As of last week, there was a rope to aid hikers upward. (On my way down, I unintentionally slid quickly down the rock, feeling every peddle in the tuchus until I landed feet first in the creek — so take your time here.)

The waterfall isn’t roaring at the moment, but I found the trickling sound of water soothing. It’s also a geologically interesting area to look around, as the water has carved out the canyon walls into interesting shapes (and created a small cave near the waterfall).

A shallow creek runs through a narrow canyon with high smooth curved walls

The walls of Santa Ynez Canyon were carved by water, wind and time over centuries.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

As I was heading back from the falls, I noticed several bees circling an area high in the canyon wall where it appeared they’d built a nest. Pack accordingly if you are allergic to bee stings.

The top of a canyon with large rock formations and green leafy trees.

Slow down and look up as you hike through Santa Ynez Canyon, taking the opportunity to observe rock formations, plants and reptiles.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I only saw three other people along the trail while there on a weekday. I was mostly alone, though, listening to the wrentits and spotted towhees as blue dragonflies darted to and fro.

A wide shallow creek with clear water and several small rocks submerged with lush forest around the creek.

Cold Creek in the Cold Creek Valley Preserve near Calabasas.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Cold Creek Trail

Distance: 2.2 miles out and back (with option to extend)
Elevation gained: About 300 feet
Difficulty: Easier end of moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: South of Calabasas
Accessible alternative: Nicholas Flat ADA Trail

The Cold Creek Valley Preserve, cared for by the TreePeople Land Trust, is a shady riparian habitat near Calabasas with a gently flowing creek that features multiple short cascades. The land was saved from development by several local residents and nonprofits, including Timothy B. Schmit, bass player for the Eagles.

The preserve features multiple public hiking routes, including the Cold Creek Trail.

“Located on an ancient trade route, the [I]ndigenous people of Southern California have used the area for hunting and settlement for generations, leaving a lasting influence visible on the land,” according to TreePeople. “The perennial Cold Creek is the keystone feature of the area, one of the cleanest free-flowing streams in the Santa Monica Mountains.”

Tree branches covered in short creek leaves hang over a dirt trail through the forest.

The tree canopy along the Cold Creek Trail in the Cold Creek Valley Preserve provides a shady cool environment for hikers.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

To begin your hike, you’ll park in a bumpy dirt lot just off Stunt Road. Be mindful as you near the trailhead, as there will likely be construction crew members in the area. They’re working to install rumble strips and other infrastructure to slow down drivers and hopefully improve traffic safety.

At the start of the trail, you’ll find a portable toilet near the gate. You’ll walk southeast for a short bit before rounding the curve of the trail. You’ll officially be transported into this sylvan sanctuary (although I could admittedly still hear the construction workers communicating on their walkie-talkies).

The trail mostly runs parallel to Cold Creek, which you will hear flowing and have the opportunity to sit near at multiple points along the route, including on a few wooden benches. The trail crosses the creek about four times, but it isn’t overly technical to maneuver.

Golden rays of sun cast over a tall green tree above a shady path.

The Cold Creek Valley Preserve is open from sunrise to sunset.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

About half a mile in, the trail intersects with Lower Stunt High Trail. You can continue northwest along the creek. You will find another option, the Yucca Trail, just under a mile into your hike, a nice .68-mile loop through the preserve.

The park, open from sunrise to sunset, offers a sweet reprieve from the sun and is a great spot to take a deep breath and meditate in the woods.

The Gabrielino Trail is a multi-use trail frequented by hikers, bikers and horseback riders.

The Gabrielino Trail is a multi-use trail frequented by hikers, bikers and horseback riders.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. The Gabrielino National Recreation Trail (multiple segments)

Distance: 28.8 miles
Elevation gained: About 6,000 feet
Difficulty: Challenging when done in its entirety
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Arcadia and Pasadena, depending on the trailhead
Accessible alternative: Gabrielino Trail starting near North Windsor Avenue near Altadena

The Gabrielino National Recreation Trail is a 28.8-mile journey through the San Gabriel Mountains. Most thru-hikers start the trail at Chantry Flat and take the trail on a squiggly N-shaped journey all the way to its western trailhead near NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory near Pasadena.

However, it isn’t necessary to take the entire Gabrielino Trail to enjoy its beauty. The trail has several entry points, offering short day trips, including the following, which run parallel to at least one local creek or river:

Regardless of where you go, I hope you enjoy our last weekend of summer. That’s right: Summer ends Tuesday! Hopefully that means it soon feels like autumn in L.A.

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3 things to do

Three people with tote bags walk along the sand near a pier with colorful buildings.

Volunteers walk down the beach at a Heal the Bay coastal cleanup event in 2024 with Water for L.A.

(Heal the Bay)

1. Clean up public lands around L.A.
Heal the Bay will host L.A. County’s annual coastal cleanup day from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday in more than 60 sites. Participants should consider wearing closed-toe shoes and sun protection. Cleanup supplies will be available at sites but will run out at popular sites. Volunteers can pick a beach, river, park or trail near them by visiting support.healthebay.org.

2. Portray a bird of prey in San Dimas
The San Dimas Canyon Nature Center will host a guided sketch experience from 6 to 7 p.m. Friday at 1628 Sycamore Canyon Road in San Dimas. Participants will learn how to draw a red-tailed hawk. Learn more at the center’s Instagram page.

3. Learn dangers from rangers in Newbury Park
Hikers can bring their four-legged besties to Rancho Sierra Vista/Satwiwa from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday for a B.A.R.K. Rangers event where rangers will educate dog owners on how to safely and responsibly enjoy public lands. Rangers will also conduct a special swearing-in ceremony, complete with a Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area B.A.R.K. Ranger badge, for pups who complete certain challenges. Learn more at eventbrite.com.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A silver gray-colored great white shark swims through shimmering turquoise waters.

A juvenile great white shark in Hermosa Beach in April, seen via drone.

(CSULB Shark Lab)

Yes, El Niño morphed our city’s usually pleasant Mediterranean climate into the largest hot yoga class in L.A. But did you know it has also resulted in our ocean water being warm enough to attract animals not usually seen along our coastline? Those fishing off the Malibu Pier were surprised in mid-August by a hammerhead shark swimming nearby. A giant whale shark was recently documented by a fish spotter between Malibu and one of the Channel Islands, a species that prefers warmer waters (and is the largest known fish on the planet). And in line with our predicted “sharky summer,” a juvenile great white shark was spotted a bit close to a swimmer off the coast of Santa Barbara. The best news is: Nothing bad has happened to any humans or animals during these visits, underscoring how well we can co-exist with these beings, despite our fears of them.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

More and more wildlife lovers are heading into public lands for “recreational herping,” the practice of looking for amphibians and reptiles. Conservation photographer Mario Ramos recently raised concerns via his Instagram page about how the increase is leading some folks to unintentionally harm the animals they seek to observe. “A harsh truth about field herping is that our interactions with wild herps are often stressful and potentially detrimental to the animals, no matter how you frame it,” Ramos wrote. Ramos then outlined how to ethically look for animals that slither and slide in the wild. Always respect the locals, folks!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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A cheap alternative to Hawaii: Beginner’s guide to snorkeling in L.A.

As a kid growing up in rural Oklahoma, I feared what lurked beneath the lake water.

I’d listen as my family spun yarns about the massive catfish they’d discovered while noodling. I was terrified that, despite their docile nature that not a single adult told me about, an alligator gar would eat me while I bobbed in the lake. Old timers would recount finding a water moccasin in their boat. And I’ve still never recovered from the concept of a “breeding ball,” which a friend’s cousin’s cousin claimed to have run into while water skiing.

Despite the fact that nothing bad ever happened to me in a lake, my fear stayed with me into adulthood. I’ve met several Californians who hold fears similar to mine, but rather than lakes, their outsized anxieties lie within the ocean. It not only keeps them from swimming at our local beaches but also from venturing beyond the shallow shoreline.

An underwater scene of bright green sea grass, a few fish milling about and large brown rocks amid a rocky sandy bottom.

An underwater view near Terranea Resort on the Palos Verdes Peninsula.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

In this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will discuss how to safely tackle those fears and start exploring with a snorkeling kit. Get ready to learn about the incredibly diverse and colorful world that lives beneath our local waters — you’re about to feel like Ariel exploring a whole new world! Let’s dive in.

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I spoke to Ralph Buck, who founded Barnacle Busters, an L.A.-based LGBTQ scuba club, with two others almost 40 years ago. Buck’s passion for helping others learn how to safely explore the ocean was so infectious that by the time we ended our call, I was seriously considering whether I should get my scuba certification (which is a story for another day).

Here’s what Buck advised regarding snorkeling.

A snorkeler in a black wetsuit hovers in turquoise water near a small school of silver blue fish.

The Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove snorkels among what appear to be grunion or topsmelt near the coastline of the Palos Verdes Peninsula.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

1. Get the right gear

Generally you will need the following gear to get started:

  • A correctly sized mask and snorkel.
  • A wetsuit (with booties, as a bonus, to protect your feet): Generally, 7 mm is a great thickness for Southern California, although our water is warmer because of our El Niño season (and climate change).
  • A life jacket or flotation device: This is considered optional, as the wetsuit will help you float, but there’s absolutely no shame in being extra safe! (And if you don’t have a wetsuit, please do wear a life jacket.)
  • Fins: It might be too strong to suggest they’re “optional,” but they can be awkward for those new to snorkeling and not necessary if you’re in calm enough waters or an overall strong swimmer.
  • Camera: Very, very optional. While out at Santa Cruz Island two weeks ago, I took some terrible underwater photos with my iPhone and wished I’d just left it on the shore.
  • Weight belt: If you want to dive, you might need a weight belt to help you go under. That said, this is a more advanced tool, and it’s good to just focus on the basics as you get more comfortable in the water.

One thing new snorkelers might not realize is the level of buoyancy that a wetsuit gives you. Both times I’ve been in the past month, I wore a 7-mm suit and loved how easy it was to float above the eel grass at Santa Cruz Island and the kelp on the coast of Palos Verdes. I love a sport that includes just lying around.

Bright yellow kelp and orange marine plant life in turquoise water.

Kelp, sea grass and various algae grow beneath the water at Terranea Beach Cove in Rancho Palos Verdes.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

2. Plan for getting your wetsuit on

For anyone on the shore of Prisoners Harbor two weeks ago, they got the pleasure of watching me groan (and curse) as I maneuvered into a thick wetsuit without anything but my swimsuit on. I told my friend I knew what sausage felt like as it’s shoved into its casing.

Zach Cantrell, owner of Ventura Dive and Sport, gave me a tip I will be eternally grateful for: Bring a plastic bag or something else that will help you slide into your wetsuit, as it helps reduce the friction between your body and the wetsuit. I brought one with me when my colleague, Allen J. Schaben, and I went out last week, and getting my wetsuit on was a breeze. No human sausage vibes (or cursing).

Buck suggested other options might be pantyhose or a long-sleeved unitard. Anything to help you slide into your wetsuit!

3. Before going out, practice in a pool

“I would suggest before hitting the open water, go hop in a pool and maybe find an experienced snorkeler to go with you simply because there are some subtle little pieces to the puzzle, which are” easy to miss for a new snorkeler, Buck said.

That includes the direction to point your snorkel. If it’s pointing too far forward, you will likely find yourself breathing straight saltwater as the waves hit you. But if you point it straight up or tilt it a bit backward, it’ll help your breathing apparatus stay clear.

A mix of kelp, clumps of sea grass and a rocky bottom under bright blue water.

A variety of marine life living around the rocky bottom of Terranea Beach Cove in Rancho Palos Verdes.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

4. Never snorkel alone

You look out at the ocean and see calm waters. You hear the siren’s call. You are alone. Resist.

Despite looking like a fairly chill activity, snorkeling still comes with significant risks that will be exacerbated if swimming alone. While out with my colleague off the coast of Rancho Palos Verdes, he pointed out a massive rock that I thought I could maneuver around. I timed my movements wrong and whacked right into it. I was fine, but also glad someone had my back if I wasn’t.

5. Assess the day’s conditions

  • Check the weather. If it is a particularly windy day, it’s likely not a good day for snorkeling, not only for safety reasons but also visibility.
  • Check the surf. There are several websites that pull data about the height of the surf, including the L.A. County Department of Beaches & Harbors.
  • Before entering, scan the shore to assess the movement of the water.
  • Learn how to spot rip currents. Rip currents “most commonly form at low spots or breaks in sandbars and near structures such as groins, jetties, and piers,” according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

“If you’re a beginner, and the waves are higher than knee high, I would just go to brunch,” Buck said. “If the surf’s too big, your visibility is going to suck anyway.”

I do love any excuse to have waffles.

A person in a black full-body wetsuit and snorkeling kit shuffles over rocks into the ocean.

The Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove carefully enters the water at Terranea Cove Beach in Rancho Palos Verdes.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

6. Choose an area that’s easy to enter and exit

This includes sandy beaches, where you can easily wade into the water without losing your balance. At Prisoners Harbor, I fell over several times because the shore is covered in various fist-sized rocks. (I need to work on my balance.) Snorkeling off the Palos Verdes Peninsula, I took my time, watched the waves and slowly moved into the water as the waves allowed. I found that, when there are rocks around, walking into the water like I’m navigating a balance beam is a good approach.

Also, in terms of looking for the best spots to snorkel, look for kelp forests and rock reefs. And because you’re newer, I would stick to spots known for snorkeling.

7. Plan for fog

Buck said before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Barnacle Busters, like most diver clubs, would recommend a simple solution to fog in your goggles: Spit. They still recommend using your spit in bodies of water where your germs won’t immediately affect other swimmers like in the ocean.

You can also buy an anti-fogging agent for your goggles. If you take your goggles off at any point as you snorkel, you’ll need to reapply either spit or anti-fog spray.

While I was out snorkeling, I was amazed at how well spit worked. (And if you want to understand the science behind why this works, check out this blog post from Scuba.com.)

A bright orange fish swims among yellow kelp as sun beams through the clear water

A garibaldi, California’s state fish, at Casino Point Dive Park on Catalina Island in 2016.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

8. Check in with yourself and your partner

You should check in with your partner every 30 seconds. That might feel like it’s way too frequent, but you’ll be amazed at how far apart you can float from your friend in that time frame. It can be as simple as making sure you see them and they see you.

9. Keep an eye out for hazards

When entering the water, you’ll want to do the “stingray shuffle” to ensure you alert any nearby rays of your presence. Around L.A. County, you’ll also want to watch out for sea urchins because their spines can prick your skin, which will require treatment if you bump into them.

As our county lifeguards point out, L.A. beaches aren’t typically places you’ll find the most dangerous jellyfish. “Jellyfish in Southern California are usually smaller in scale and have a more mild sting than other species found around the world,” according to the agency’s website.

(And don’t worry. Electric eels don’t live in the ocean.)

I asked Buck how often he and his fellow divers check for hazards like sharks.

He told me that outside of rocks, high surf and going out too deep for one’s skill level, he and his diving partners don’t think too much about hazards in our local waters.

Pointy purple creates on a large brown rock underwater.

Purple sea urchins grow on a rock near the shore of Prisoners Harbor on Santa Cruz Island in the Channel Islands National Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“Well, we don’t consider sharks to be a hazard at all. My husband and I blame Steven Spielberg for the irrational fear of sharks,” Buck said, referencing Spielberg’s 1975 film “Jaws” and the adverse effects the film had on white sharks.

Buck said he and his husband rarely see sharks. He does give some weight to the argument that divers in wetsuits can resemble seals and sea lions when floating on the surface.

“But in areas where you’ll probably be snorkeling, you’ll probably be snorkeling on shallow rocky reefs or shallow kelp. It’s not even a consideration for us,” he said.

Lastly, if you or your partner start to shiver, get out.

A snorkeler in a black wet suit hovers over plant life in the turquoise blue ocean.

The Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove snorkels at Terranea Cove Beach in Rancho Palos Verdes.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

10. Don’t touch anything

Practice Leave No Trace in the ocean too. “That’s our philosophy for diving too,” Buck said. “Look, but don’t touch.”

And never feed the marine life.

11. Have fun!

Since learning to snorkel, I’ve already found two friends who also enjoy it, and I plan to ping them to go out soon. If you don’t have anyone in your circle who snorkels yet, consider joining a local club.

In a world that feels hard right now, I felt like I had a two-hour vacation as I floated above the bright green sea grass and golden yellow kelp, watching garibaldi and what appeared to be grunion or topsmelt bob and dive around me. I came out refreshed and grateful to live here.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

Two hikers cross a crystal clear creek dotted with gray white boulders of various sizes.

The hike to Eaton Canyon Falls in the San Gabriel Mountains before the 2025 Eaton fire.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

1. Learn about Eaton Canyon’s future in Arcadia
L.A. County Parks and Recreation will host From Ashes to Action: Reimagining Eaton Canyon from 5 to 7 p.m. Wednesday at the L.A. County Arboretum’s Ayres Hall (301 N. Baldwin Ave. in Arcadia). Attendees will learn about design concepts for the next Eaton Canyon nature center along with the latest work completed in the natural area. The event is free, but registration is required. Register at arboretum.org.

2. Service sage in San Pedro
Cabrillo Marine Aquarium (3720 Stephen M. White Drive) needs volunteers from 9 to 10:30 a.m. Saturday to work on its native plant garden. Participants will learn about plants as they work. All ages welcome. Learn more at cma.recreation.parks.lacity.gov.

3. Launch into Latino Conservation Week in L.A.
The Audubon Center at Debs Park will kick off Latino Conservation Week from noon to 6 p.m. Sunday at Metabolic Studio (1745 N. Spring St.). Activities include a bachata class, panel discussion and guided nature hike. Learn more at act.aubudon.org.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A scorched landscape next to deep blue water.

Burn damage to the Torrey pine grove at Santa Rosa Island, as seen from a ferry on June 8.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

Last week, the National Park Service announced that up to 80% of the rare Torrey pines on Santa Rosa Island in the Channel Islands National Park could die after being harmed by a wildfire in May. Times staff writer Corinne Purtill wrote that initially park officials were hopeful that because the fire, which charred through 40% of the 18,000-acre island, burned at low intensity through the grove, the trees could recover. Research found the fire hurt the mature trees’ exposed root systems. However, I am holding onto hope — for a few reasons. “Park staff have also collected more than 14,000 seeds released from the pine cones. Viable seeds will be planted and raised in a nursery until the seedlings can be planted in the grove,” Purtill wrote.

Another reason is that volunteers are already actively working to save these trees. You can help with that. The California Institute of Environmental Studies needs volunteers to help with recovery as well as with Channel Islands Restoration. You can also donate to the Channel Islands Park Foundation’s Santa Rosa fire resilience fund.

Now more than ever, it’s on us to protect our public lands.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

While out kayaking off the coast of Santa Cruz Island last month, I yanked a plastic wrapper out of the ocean. I frequently pick up plastic snack wrappers and corners of wrappers that people have accidentally dropped on the trail. And not infrequently have I found thick plastic bags — those said to be reusable — floating in shallow water near the beach. In recent years, California lawmakers have passed laws to address our state’s plastic consumption, including the Plastic Pollution Prevention and Packaging Producer Responsibility Act, or Senate Bill 54. Starting in 2027, the state will receive $500 million every year for 10 years to address plastic pollution, and state leaders want to hear from you how to best spend that money. You can submit your thoughts through Sept. 30 using this form or send your message using the email listed on the form’s webpage. Times staff writer Susanne Rust recently wrote about how there’s a secretive multimillion-dollar campaign to crush California’s landmark plastics law. If the battle over single-use plastic in California is something you’re passionate about, consider subscribing to Boiling Point, where my Times colleagues explore what’s happening to our climate-changed world. They’ll definitely keep you posted!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Public defenders target Trump federal prosecutor Bill Essayli in SoCal

The Los Angeles federal public defender’s office on Friday joined a renewed effort to oust Bill Essayli, the top federal prosecutor in Southern California, accusing the government of “playing shadow games with the most consequential powers a government can wield against its population.”

Citing a recent order from the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals in United States v. Jackson, the public defender’s office renewed a motion seeking to disqualify Essayli from participating in or supervising the prosecution of their client, Jaime Ramirez.

The federal appellate court ruled last month that the Department of Justice cannot keep an official who has not been confirmed by the Senate in charge of a U.S. attorney’s office simply by giving that person a different title and the full powers of the job.

In their motion filed Friday, James Anglin Flynn and Ayah A. Sarsour, deputy federal public defenders, accused the government of asking them “to trust that there are some undisclosed limits on Essayli’s authority that render it valid.”

“The buck should stop here, and it should stop now,” they wrote.

The U.S. attorney’s office in L.A. did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

H. Dean Steward, a defense attorney, first kicked off the renewed effort last week, filing a motion asking Senior U.S. District Judge J. Michael Seabright to reconsider his prior ruling. Steward argued that Essayli should not be allowed to continue leading the office.

Seabright previously disqualified Essayli as acting U.S. attorney in October, finding he was “not lawfully serving” in the top role. But Seabright — who was appointed to the bench by President George W. Bush — said the court had “no basis to preclude Essayli from performing the lawful duties” of first assistant U.S. attorney, which left the door open for him to remain in charge.

Seabright scheduled a hearing for Oct. 13 on the latest motion. At a Zoom hearing on Aug. 28, Seabright appeared to signal which way he is leaning.

“I’m not sure if the government is just saying my decision was different from Jackson and therefore it stands. I’m not sure that passes muster given how the 9th Circuit ruled in Jackson,” Seabright said. “I think there’s going to have to be more in-depth briefing than the government has given me to date.”

The federal appellate court ruling stemmed from a challenge to the authority of Nevada’s top federal prosecutor, Sigal Chattah, whom the Justice Department had designated “first assistant” U.S. attorney. With no one above her in the office, Chattah has seemingly been calling the shots on federal prosecutions in the state, handling cases referred by the FBI, the Drug Enforcement Administration and other law enforcement agencies.

The Justice Department previously said it disagreed with the 9th Circuit’s decision and plans to appeal it to the Supreme Court. The agency did not respond to questions about what effect the ruling could have on Essayli.

The Trump administration has used a similar workaround to keep Essayli running the U.S. attorney’s office in L.A. without going through the Senate confirmation process, where he likely would have faced strong opposition from California’s elected representatives.

Essayli, 40, has continued leading the federal prosecutor’s office in the Central District of California as “first assistant” despite a federal judge’s ruling last year that said he was unlawfully serving as the acting U.S. attorney. The Justice Department did not appeal that ruling.

Instead, Essayli’s office has maintained that he can prosecute and supervise cases as first assistant. He also was appointed as a “special attorney” by the Trump administration, a title similarly held by Chattah in Nevada.

“To be sure, First Assistant Essayli may be the highest-ranking DOJ lawyer in the U.S. Attorney’s Office, and (like many in the office) he supervises others,” Assistant U.S. Atty. Alexander P. Robbins said in a filing last month. “But that cannot make him a “de facto” U.S. Attorney, and he does not purport to exercise “all of the functions of [that] office.”

Flynn and Sarsour pushed back on that claim in their motion, arguing that the government “is asking this Court to accept a theory that the Ninth Circuit rejected, nearly verbatim less than three weeks ago.” The government, they wrote, “appears to be asking this Court to consider and approve a hypothetical delegation to Essayli of some subset of the U.S. Attorney powers.”

“For over a year, this illegal exercise of prosecutorial powers has violated Mr. Ramirez’s constitutional rights and undermined the legitimacy of the criminal justice system in this district,” Flynn and Sarsour wrote. “In line with Jackson, two other Courts of Appeals have now affirmed the common-sense remedy that this illegality should be stopped.”

The deputy federal public defenders said a defense analysis identified invalid service as acting or de facto U.S. Attorneys in at least 16 districts across the country.

A former Republican member of the California state Assembly from Riverside, Essayli has used his position to act as one of Trump’s fiercest legal foot soldiers. He has pursued criminal charges against protesters, activists and immigrants while dropping cases involving administration allies and supporting lawsuits challenging transgender and environmental policies in California.

Essayli was sworn in as interim U.S. attorney in April 2025. Around the time he hit that role’s 120-day limit, he resigned from his interim role and was allowed to continue under his current titles by then-Atty. Gen. Pam Bondi.

Challenges to Essayli’s position were brought in several criminal cases, with defense lawyers arguing that charges filed under his watch are invalid and should be dismissed. The federal public defender’s office in L.A. had asked the judge to disqualify Essayli from participating in and supervising criminal prosecutions.

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A guide to camping at Channel Islands’ Prisoners Harbor Campground

It was a Thursday evening, and I was performing Gloria Gaynor’s 1978 hit “I Will Survive” for my audience of three on an ocean pier as we waited for the partial lunar eclipse.

As we shimmied to ‘70s hits via a Bluetooth speaker, I boasted about winning a talent competition in my tiny town thanks to my rendition of the disco classic. “We need to see these dance moves!” a fellow camper proclaimed.

Somehow, we had this island all to ourselves.

This was one of several memories I made last week when I traveled to Santa Cruz Island in Channel Islands National Park to stay at Prisoners Harbor Campground on its opening night. When the National Park Service announced that reservations would open Aug. 18, I spent 11 hours that day refreshing the page, waiting for my chance. At last, site No. 1 was mine.

A small dirt tent pad surrounded by wood beams with a small picnic table and brown metal box surrounded by trees

Campsite No. 2 at the Prisoners Harbor Campground on Santa Cruz Island.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

In this edition of The Wild, I lay out how you can create your own memories at this quiet campground on a lesser traveled side of Santa Cruz Island. I will explain how to book your site and ferry, what to pack and what you can do while on the island.

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Step 1: Book your campsite ⛺

Prisoners Harbor Campground is a small, rustic campground open year-round on Santa Cruz Island, the largest island in California. Although the National Park Service lists the campground as having six sites, it technically has seven. Reservations can be made for $15 a night through Recreation.gov.

Prisoners Harbor Campground is about a 13-mile hike southwest from Scorpion Canyon Campground, the popular 31-site spot where most folks visiting the island camp. Unlike Scorpion Canyon, Prisoners Harbor does not have any water on site and is a more DIY experience. There are also fewer tours and experiences led by outfitters on this side of the island.

A green map with dots and icons identifying the locations of campsites and other amenities and landmarks

The map of Prisoners Harbor Campground.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Each campsite at Prisoners Harbor has a dirt-packed tent pad, a picnic table and metal food storage containers that everyone called “fox boxes,” as the island fox is the largest land predator on the island (and will absolutely steal your food, and maybe your shoes).

From the pier, you’ll walk about one-fifth of a mile on a mostly flat dirt road, passing the brick Prisoners Harbor warehouse and two pit toilets. You will cross the Cañada del Puerto, which was dry during our visit but can swell to 3 feet and become impassable, according to the park service.

I was pleased to find that site No. 1 is tucked away in the campground’s northern corner. It is shaded by oak trees and surrounded by thick brush, offering privacy and the feeling like you exist only in this one little corner of the world.

Site No. 2 is on the path to site No. 1 and isn’t presently bookable on Recreation.gov. (I’m guessing the park service will remedy that soon, as the site exists and is ready for campers!)

A campsite with a dirt tent pad with wooded beams on its sides and a brown metal storage box and black-brown picnic table

The shaded campsite No. 6 at Prisoners Harbor Campground.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Sites No. 3, 4, 5 and 6 are all positioned in a row on the southwestern corner of the campground. Similar to site No. 1, site No. 6 is tucked under thick tree canopy. I think it’s probably shaded for most, if not all, of the day. Sites No. 3, 4 and 5 also have some shade.

Site No. 7 is the accessible campsite and has a ramp leading up to it. It is fairly exposed, appearing to have the least amount of shade and privacy. It is closest to the pit toilet, though, which also has a ramp leading up to it.

As I was getting ready for bed, I noticed the soothing sound of ocean waves. My friend Christine was already cozy inside the tent, and I asked her if she’d turned on an ambient soundtrack on her phone to fall asleep. “No, that’s just the ocean!” she said.

Step 2: Book your ferry ⛴️

There are only two ways to get to Santa Cruz Island: Take a private boat or, the more popular route, book a ferry through Island Packers, leaving out of Ventura Harbor.

A roundtrip ferry to Prisoners Harbor costs $72 for children ages 3 to 12, $96 for campers ages 13 to 54, $91 for those 55 and older. It is also $91 for members of the U.S. military.

Upon booking your ferry, you must read the rules that Island Packers emails to you. I cannot stress that enough. There are weight limits (i.e. no single item may weigh more than 45 pounds) and limitations about what you’re allowed to bring. That said, it’s all fairly easy to follow — like not packing your water or fuel inside your bag, as those both are packed in specific places on the boat.

A person in a large hat sits aboard a yellow kayak in the ocean with a paddle in her hands near a rocky jagged coastline

Christine, a friend of The Wild, paddles along the coastline of Santa Cruz Island near Prisoners Harbor.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Step 3: Plan out what you’d like to do on the island 🚣😎

With Prisoners Harbor being more of a DIY experience than Scorpion Canyon, one of the most important things you can do is plan ahead and book your activities at least a full day — ideally a few days — before your trip.

I knew I wanted to try snorkeling, but I don’t own gear — yet. Thanks to a recommendation from Island Packers, whose staff graciously answered all my questions, I contacted Ventura Dive and Sport to see what was doable. Owner Zach Cantrell was helpful and accommodating, setting me up with everything I needed, including a 7-mm wetsuit that made me feel like an actual marine mammal thanks to my ability to float while wearing it. Cantrell also made it easy to return my gear since the ferry was returning after his shop was closed.

Outside of snorkeling, you can also rent a kayak through Channel Islands Kayak Center. Or you can bring your own kayak, keeping in mind that Island Packers has specific rules around which kayaks you’re allowed to bring. You should also take a look at the National Park Service’s safety guidance regarding the risks of ocean kayaking.

A steep wide dirt road with views opening to blue ocean water and mountains in the distance

The hike along Navy Road offers nice views of ocean and mountain ranges on the mainland.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You can also swim near the Prisoners Harbor pier, but you should keep in mind:

  • The beach here is not sandy, but rather covered with rocks of varying sizes; pack swim shoes to protect your feet
  • The waves can get choppy, so make sure not to swim alone
  • There are stingrays in the area, so enter the water doing the stingray shuffle
  • There are sea urchins on some rocks in the area, so watch out for those as well, as their sting also hurts

On the island, there’s, of course, hiking. There are two trailheads at Prisoners Harbor:

  • The 4-mile out-and-back Pelican Bay hike, a challenging trek that traverses along the coastline, offering seemingly endless views of the area, before ending at the bay and Tinkers Harbor, another spot where you can swim and snorkel; The hike is on Nature Conservancy land, an environmental nonprofit that owns 76% of the island, and the conservancy requires that you sign a waiver and only traverse the hike when an Island Packers staffer is present on the trail.
  • A hike along Navy Road that you can take to the backcountry Del Norte campground, or to a variety of other spots on the island, should you pack a paper map or download a map before your trip.

Christine and I had originally planned to check out the Pelican Bay hike on Friday morning, but then a kind island visitor said we could borrow their kayaks for free. That was an irresistible offer.

I’ve kayaked several times on rivers and in lakes but never on the ocean, so I wanted to be fairly cautious. We paddled northwest along the island’s coast, taking in the island’s jagged rocky cliffs. We spotted what appeared to be a small sea cave but agreed it wasn’t a good idea to explore without a guide who knows the island. You should always be ready on any adventure to check in with yourself and your travel companions about your skill and comfort levels. If the reason you’re wanting to do something is really just “FOMO,” ask yourself if it should instead be a “NO-GO.” (Yes, I just made that up.)

Three paddlers in brightly colored kayaks head toward a rocky coastline on the blue ocean water

Kayakers leave out of Scorpion Anchorage on Santa Cruz Island.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I saw repeatedly on the National Park Service website that the island’s weather conditions can change rapidly, including while out on the kayak. Christine was out front and noted the wind was picking up. We swiftly paddled back, carried in part by the waves, which pushed our kayaks along in a similar sensation to surfing. I quickly fell in love with that feeling!

Despite the campground being fully booked, there were only two other campers during our trip — retired educators and travel besties Kim Eaton and Annemarie Lee, both of Riverside. They’d visited the Channel Islands multiple times, including Anacapa, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and had made previous trips to Santa Cruz, and they’d always wanted to do the Pelican Bay hike.

We were all on the island when it was particularly hot and humid, so the duo chose to go halfway and turn around.

A cloudy night sky with white-golden light and a deep blue sky with twinkling white stars above the dark ocean

The cloudy night sky, as seen from the Prisoners Harbor pier.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“The views were beautiful,” Eaton said, noting how clearly they could see the rugged coastline and waves. “We saw you guys kayaking!”

“The color of that ocean is beautiful,” Lee added.

Rocky outcroppings near Scorpion Anchorage.

Rocky outcroppings near Scorpion Anchorage.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Step 4: Plan what you’ll pack, including all your water

Everything you pack in, including your trash, you must pack out. There is no food for purchase, and there is no water at Prisoners Harbor, so you must bring whatever you plan to use for drinking and other purposes. I brought 4 gallons, and Christine packed 2. As I said, it was pretty hot, and we left the island with about a gallon and a half left.

I didn’t realize coolers were allowed. Nearby in campsite No. 4, Kim and Annemarie not only had a cooler but large ice cubes they’d frozen specifically for the trip, which last longer thanks to their size. “So if you like your cocktails, you’ll have ice” for multiple days, Kim said.

Step 5: Don’t miss the boat!

Island Packers requires campers to check in an hour before the boat leaves.

I left my home just before 6 a.m., picked up Christine and boogied to Island Packers, parking just before 8 a.m. Parking at Ventura Harbor is free Monday through Thursday, and $10 for a full-day pass Friday through Sunday and on major holidays.

After checking in, we worked with Island Packers staffers to load our gear onto the boat. I also thankfully had time to buy a four-shot latte next door at Freedom Coffee. Island Packers has several items for sale in their gift shop, including waterproof phone cases and other items you might have forgotten at home.

As you board the boat, make sure you remember wherever you tuck your return ticket. Our departure time from the island was 4:15 p.m. Friday, which gave us the better part of the day to explore.

An island fence lizard rests on a log at campsite No. 1, scoping out the new visitors to its island.

An island fence lizard rests on a log at campsite No. 1, scoping out the new visitors to its island.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Step 6: Have fun!

Full of motion-sickness drugs and glee, we boarded the boat. I tried to keep my expectations low for what we’d see on the trip to the island. I’ve been on three whale watching excursions out of Long Beach, including once when we didn’t see any whales.

A bottlenose dolphin swims alongside the Island Packer boat on its journey to Santa Cruz Island.

A bottlenose dolphin swims alongside the Island Packer boat on its journey to Santa Cruz Island.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

However, shortly into our trip, our boat was visited by bottlenose dolphins that swam next to us. As we neared Scorpion Anchorage to drop off the passengers day-tripping and camping there, we saw so many common dolphins, it felt like an organized and official welcoming celebration.

A humpback whale near the coastline of Santa Cruz Island.

A humpback whale near the coastline of Santa Cruz Island.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

But the real magic happened shortly before we docked at the Prisoners Harbor pier when our captain Pancho spotted at least one (maybe two) humpback whale. We paused for a bit to take in the majestic animal’s movements. Christine and I agreed it was easy to see how sailors believed in sea monsters, given how otherworldly the humpback’s body appears as it slithers in and out of the water.

Before leaving for the island, I’d read about how the island foxes will approach you while you’re eating, and that they’ll come into your campsite to try to snag your food. We didn’t have that experience, thankfully, as the campground is so new, and the animals aren’t used to people being there yet.

These tiny canines remained rather elusive — until just before we left. We were headed to the restroom when I gasped. An island fox, about the size of a large house cat, was busy foraging for food in the leaves. It made me happy to see it act naturally, rather than begging us for human food.

An island fox roots through leaves in pursuit of a meal.

An island fox roots through leaves in pursuit of a meal.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The fox cautiously walked a few feet past us on its journey for bugs and other snacks. It was a last bit of island magic before we left.

Although the beauty and biodiversity of the island is a major reason to visit, I carried something else with me back to the mainland, though. To a person, everyone was kind to each other. Prisoners Harbor, through its simple design, offers you the opportunity to move slower, notice more and just enjoy life in a way that’s harder to do when you have cellphone service.

For those looking for a simple escape near L.A., Prisoners Harbor Campground is that and so much more. Late-night karaoke is not required — but highly recommended.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

Declan Beck, left, his brother Colson and friend Dayna Monbello visit Malibu Creek State Park near Calabasas.

Declan Beck, left, his brother Colson and friend Dayna Monbello visit Malibu Creek State Park near Calabasas.

(Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)

1. Celebrate biodiversity around L.A. and beyond
California Biodiversity Day, which actually runs for a week from Saturday through Sept. 13, will include several opportunities to get outside and learn in L.A. County. Malibu Creek State Park and UCLA Stunt Ranch are both hosting one-day data collection events, called bioblitzes. Friends of Ballona Wetlands will offer a freshwater marsh tour on Sept. 12 in Playa Vista. And Arroyos & Foothills Conservancy will host a native plant walk. Find events near you at californianature.ca.gov.

2. Celebrate the black walnut in Ascot Hills
Coyotl wan Macehualli and several other local groups will host a “Black Walnut Day” from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday at Ascot Hills Park. The annual gathering will include plant adoptions, a bird walk, a community bike ride, hiking and more. Learn more at the organization’s Instagram page.

3. Plant seedlings near Agoura Hills
The Santa Monica Mountains Fund, a local nonprofit, needs volunteers from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday to work at Cheeseboro Canyon. Volunteers will plant hundreds of live plants grown from locally collected seed. Register at eventbrite.com.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

Illustration of a female figure balancing on one leg with arms outstretched below a blue cloudy sky. A gray cat looks on.

(Ryan Gillett / For The Times)

Falling during a hike can lead to a serious injury, or even worse. This is why it’s crucial that hikers not only wear appropriate footwear but also ensure their ability to balance isn’t being hampered by underlying health issues. Times staff writer Deborah Vankin recently wrote “Get A Leg Up,” a multipart series on improving our balance. First, you read about how to test your balance IQ to discern any issues you might have. Then, you can use exercises that Deborah explains to improve your balance. “Knowing your balance ability is a critical component of self-care,” says Mike Teater, director of balance for Fyzical, a national network of clinics specializing in balance and dizziness, “so you can age gracefully and do the things you want to do — and enjoy the life you built for yourself.”

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

The L.A. River community is mourning the loss of Steven Appleton, founder of the LA River Kayak Safari. A longtime L.A. River supporter, Appleton died July 25 at his Elysian Valley home following an 18-month battle with a rare and aggressive form of esophageal cancer, according to a GoFundMe page launched to help his family. Times staff writer Doug Smith wrote of Appleton in 2019, “For more than a decade, he has been launching kayak expeditions just upstream from his newly acquired parcel. He has literally blazed water trails by moving broken chunks of concrete to eliminate obstacles to wading and kayaking.” Money from the GoFundMe fundraiser will help Appleton’s family cover his memorial and final expenses. Thank you, Steven, for doing your part to help our local river.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Nicolas Jackson joins Aston Villa: How striker compares with Ollie Watkins

On the surface, Jackson’s numbers at Bayern Munich last season compare favourably with those of Watkins at Villa.

The Senegal forward scored 11 goals and provided three assists in 1,320 minutes across all competitions, averaging 1.0 goal involvements per 90 minutes. Watkins recorded 21 goals and five assists in 3,837 minutes, an average of 0.6 per 90.

Jackson also generated more attacking opportunities. He averaged 3.8 shots per 90 compared with Watkins’ 2.6, and 2.2 shots on target to 1.2.

His expected-goals (xG) figure was also higher, at 0.7 per 90 compared with 0.5, while he averaged 8.5 touches in the opposition box to Watkins’ 5.6.

That fits a pattern which predates his spell in Germany. Among players with at least 5,000 Premier League minutes since January 2020, only Erling Haaland has registered a higher non-penalty xG figure per 90 than Jackson’s 0.55.

Getting into scoring positions has rarely been Jackson’s main problem – it is his ability to finish chances which has attracted scrutiny.

During his two Premier League seasons with Chelsea, he scored 14 goals from 18.7 xG in 2023-24 and 10 from 12.3 xG the following campaign.

Jackson has converted 18 of 61 big chances in England so far, although Watkins has also missed plenty of high-value opportunities (scoring 24 of 73 since joining Villa in 2020).

Interestingly, last season’s numbers suggest the gap between them was negligible. Jackson converted 19.6% of his shots and 40.9% of his big chances, compared with 18.9% and 43.2% respectively for Watkins.

There is, however, an important caveat.

Watkins started 43 matches and played almost three times as many minutes. Jackson started only 15 of his 34 appearances, and Opta says his relatively limited, substitute-heavy sample could make some of his per-90 figures look stronger than they might over a full season.

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3 Los Angeles night hikes where you can watch the ‘blood moon’ eclipse

I didn’t want to feel disappointed, so I suggested we leave.

My friend Mejin countered that we should give the moon a little more time to show itself.

We’d hiked up to Five Points, where five trails meet in Griffith Park, with the goal of watching the moon rise over the nearby Los Angeles River and Elysian Valley.

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But the smog was thick, and the view was obscured. I already felt beat down by life. Now, the moon was a no-show? But as Mejin and I chatted with passersby about why we were standing around — no one seemed as hyped about the moon as we were — we spotted a flicker of golden light, low in the sky.

In this edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will recommend three night hikes around L.A. where you should have great views to watch the moon rise. Each trail offers an opportunity to still get outside despite this oppressive heat wave L.A. is experiencing this week. And this week’s full moon is extra special. On Thursday night, we’ll be able to witness a partial “blood moon” eclipse. Sounds spooky, and it isn’t even Halloween yet!

First, let’s talk through the time of sunset and the moon’s rise so you can plan your hike accordingly:

  • Thursday: Sunset at 7:25 p.m., moon rise at 7:16 p.m.
  • Friday: Sunset at 7:24 p.m., moon rise at 7:43 p.m.
  • Saturday: Sunset at 7:22 p.m., moon rise at 8:09 p.m.
  • Sunday: Sunset at 7:21 p.m., moon rise at 8:37 p.m.
The golden orange moon in a deep blue sky with a city skyline below.

A view of the super blue moon as seen from the Hollywood Hills on August 2023.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

In terms of the partial “blood moon” eclipse, here’s what you need to know, thanks to a story by Times staff writer Fedor Zarkhin:

  • “The main stage of the eclipse will begin at 7:34 p.m., when the moon will fall under the core, or umbra, of Earth’s shadow. It will gradually turn a reddish, copper color as sunlight bends and filters through the atmosphere to fall on the otherwise-obscured part of the moon.”
  • “The eclipse will peak at 9:13 p.m. — when 96% of the moon’s surface will fall under the Earth’s shadow.”
  • “The most visible phase of the eclipse will end at 10:52 p.m.”
  • “The eclipse will end entirely just after midnight.”

If you’d like to look for your own full moon hike, rather than using the list below, your hiking spot will ideally include:

  • Clear views to the east. The moon generally rises in the northern hemisphere in the eastern sky (at around 102 degrees on Thursday in L.A., coordinates you can find using your cellphone’s compass).
  • Open after hours. Several of our local parks are only open from sunrise to sunset (outside of special events). Make sure to check the hours (if there are any) if you’re planning to take a night hike not listed below.
  • A wide dirt or paved path. None of the hikes below are terribly technical. That’s intentional, as the best night hikes are those along a wide fire road or paved path.
A gorgeous yellow white natural satellite, also known as the moon, shines over jagged brown mountains and houses below.

The moon rising in Thousand Oaks over Simi Peak to the east in October 2021 in the phase known as waxing gibbous.

(Al Seib / Los Angeles Times)

  • Friends. It’s best to hike in a group at night, in part because your chatter and laughter will alert any animals that you’re nearby.
  • Hiking poles. Although none of these trails are terribly technical, there’s still an inherent risk that comes with hiking. Consider bringing poles for the trip down, just to give yourself a bit more purchase on the sandy soil.
  • Extra water. We’re all slowly melting in this heat wave. Pack more water than you’d normally bring because we’re probably all a bit more dehydrated than usual this week!
The moon rises above the snow capped San Gabriel mountains and the Los Angeles skyline.

The moon rises above the snow-capped San Gabriel Mountains and the Los Angeles skyline as rain clouds begin to envelope the sky. The view is from Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area in January 2021.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

As always, please remember to practice the seven Leave No Trace principles out on the trail, which include picking up after yourself (including orange peels) and not playing loud music. This better ensures we leave it better than we found it so everyone, including our local wildlife, can continue to enjoy our public lands.

OK, toss an extra water bottle in your pack and let’s take a look at these hikes!

Seven people sit on a concrete square covered in graffiti with expansive views of cities and mountains below and all around.

Hikers sit on the ledge of the Topanga Lookout, a concrete base of a fire lookout that is believed to have been torn down in the 1970s after smog made the lookout tower irrelevant.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Topanga Lookout

Distance: 2.1 miles
Elevation gained: About 350 feet
Difficulty: Easy end of moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Topanga
Accessible alternative: An L.A. County beach with accessible offerings

The 2.1-mile trek out and back to the Topanga Lookout takes hikers along the Topanga Ridge Motorway (called Topanga Tower Motorway on some maps) to an iconic spot in the Santa Monica Mountains where, on a clear day, you can see dozens of miles away.

Along the way, you’ll spot massive rock slabs that look like the forgotten frisbees of Zeus and his pals. And you’ll be treated to a lush habitat of native plants, including prickly phlox, chaparral yucca, black sage, hollyleaf cherry and Coulter’s Matilija poppy.

Three lights are seen along a dirt path through thick green plants and large crunchy boulders

Hikers light the path to the Topanga Lookout in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

To begin, you’ll park near the trailhead at Stunt and Saddle Peak roads. Be careful if crossing the road, as that large bumblebee you hear nearby is actually a sports car ripping along the road. From the trailhead, you’ll take Topanga Ridge Motorway for just over a mile northeast. You will pass an entry point for the Backbone Trail and a private road.

The trail starts as a wide paved path before transitioning after about a third of a mile to a dirt path of varying widths. Although it’s not overly technical — I chatted with a hiker walking it in slides — the trail has some uneven surfaces, so a headlamp or good flashlight is necessary when hiking it at night.

You will pass at least one spur trail — unofficial, user-generated — including one that’s steep and unstable. I overheard one youthful hiker tell their friends, “Dude, I almost died three times.” Not a ringing endorsement for that route. Plus, it didn’t sound like it offered any better views than you’ll get at the lookout spot.

As you approach the lookout, you’ll notice a steep path up to the concrete base. If you, instead, take the foot path to the right of the lookout, you’ll find stairs that allow you a much easier time getting to the top. You likely won’t find solitude — I interacted with a dozen hikers on a Wednesday night — but you will find incredible views of the Santa Monica Mountains and L.A. County. I was blown away.

A brightly lit dirt path with several plants, including sage and yucca, along the way with a deep blue sky above.

A headlamp lights the path ahead as the stars twinkle above near the Topanga Lookout in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I kept calling this spot the Topanga Overlook in my head, knowing that was wrong. It hadn’t clicked for me that this used to be the site of a fire lookout tower, hence the reason there’s a concrete structure here.

Believed to be built in 1934, the Topanga site was one of three fire lookout towers that the L.A. County Fire Department maintained in the Santa Monica Mountains with the other two located at Castro Peak and Triunfo Peak near the Ventura County line, according to a 1958 Times article. (For more history on fire lookouts in L.A. County, including how to hike to an existing one, you can read this article I wrote about Vetter Mountain.)

A bright moon in the night blue sky over a dark ridgeline and thousands of city lights.

An almost full moon rises over the Santa Monica Mountains and nearby cities.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The Forest Fire Lookout Assn. lists the reason for the Topanga Lookout’s demolition to be “unknown.” However, I think I figured out what happened.

Author Milt McAuley wrote in one of his Santa Monica Mountains hiking guidebooks that the lookout tower was removed in the 1970s but provided no further details. This was around the time that air quality was worsening in L.A. County.

The sunset as seen from the Topanga Lookout trail in the Santa Monica Mountains.

The sunset as seen from the Topanga Lookout trail in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“The County Fire Department has seen the day coming when the lookout tower would be outmoded,” Deputy Fire Chief George Brunton said in a 1969 Times article. “Too much smog cuts the effectiveness of the lookout operators and as the area becomes populated we no longer feel the need for these fixed fire spotters.”

Brunton told The Times that the county was launching a pilot program (somewhat literally) to use helicopters as fire lookouts. Officials had already closed the Triunfo tower and another at Parker Mountain near Saugus. “If the pilot program proves successful, other towers will be shuttered, according to Brunton,” the story reads.

Today, the Topanga Lookout and the surrounding area is mostly public land. Please respect any “No Trespassing” signs you see, as there remains some private land nearby, and if able, bring a trash bag with you. Unfortunately, not all visitors practice Leave No Trace!

The view from the Seco View Trail in Debs Park.

The view from the Seco View Trail in Debs Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Seco View and Oak Grove trails to overlooks

Distance: 1.4 to 1.86 miles
Elevation gained: 600 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Northeast L.A.
Accessible alternative: L.A. River trail near the Taylor Yard bridge

This short jaunt through Ernest E. Debs Regional Park in the Montecito Hills offers great views at any time of day, with a bonus of great spots to sit at the top.

To begin, park at Hermon Park, or walk from the Highland Park Metro stop, as it is about a 0.7-mile walk to the trailhead from there.

From Hermon Park, head south, crossing Via Marisol from the crosswalk. From the crosswalk, you’ll walk west to the trailhead.

You will take the Seco View Trail southwest-ish for just over a quarter of a mile before turning left (or south) on Oak Grove Trail. You will follow Oak Grove Trail for about a quarter of a mile and then continue on Oak Grove Trail as it jags to the right (or west). You’ll quickly come to a wider dirt path. Turn left (or west).

A bench in golden light surrounded by dry grasses.

A green park bench at Debs Park.

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

In just 300 feet, you’ll come to a paved path where you can turn left or right and reach benches either way. From here, the choice is yours to sit, rest and enjoy the moon rise.

On your way back, you have the option of following a wide-but-steep path down rather than returning on Oak Grove Trail.

A deep orange moon rises over hillsides dotted with lights from building.

The moon rises over Elysian Valley in late July.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Five Points via Fern Canyon Trail

Distance: About 2.4 miles
Elevation gained: About 475 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Atwater Village
Accessible alternative: Griffith Park Observatory paved paths

This 2.4-mile journey will take you to Five Points (5-Points on some maps), where five trails meet and offer you the opportunity to extend your adventure (as long as you packed a map).

To begin, park at the Merry-Go-Round Lot 1 or nearby, keeping in mind that sometimes parking lots in the area close for setup and equipment for Shakespeare in the Park.

Exit the parking lot in the southeast corner and head to the Lower Beacon Trail, a wide flat dirt path parallel to the road. You’ll only be on this for about 200 feet.

Two hikers on a dirt path pass an opening in the greenery. A highway stretches out in the distance.

At Five Points in Griffith Park, where, on a clear day, you can see Santiago Peak, the highest peak in Orange County.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Soon, you will turn left (or southwest) onto the Fern Canyon Nature Trail.

You stay on this lush shady path for just under one-fifth of a mile, continuing southwest until you reach the Fern Canyon Trail, a wide dirt path.

You will follow Fern Canyon Trail as it takes you first west, then southeast before taking you eastward to Five Points.

If anyone in your party is thirsty, the Joe Klass Water Stop is nearby.

From Five Points, you can hang out until you spot the sturgeon moon, the name for this month’s full moon. And if it doesn’t come quickly, consider waiting.

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3 things to do

A tribute will honor the life and music of Swamini Alice Coltrane Turiyasangitananda.

A tribute will honor the life and music of Swamini Alice Coltrane Turiyasangitananda.

(Adam Corey Thomas / TreePeople)

1. Celebrate Alice Coltrane’s birthday in Beverly Hills
TreePeople and Living Earth will host a tribute to Alice Coltrane from 7 to 10 p.m. Thursday at TreePeople’s outdoor venue in Beverly Hills. Proceeds from ticket sales will go toward the musicians, money needed to restore the ashram Coltrane established that burned in the 2018 Woolsey fire and to TreePeople, a local nonprofit that has planted more than 3 million trees in our region. Tickets range from $33 to $66 plus a $3.21 processing fee. Purchase at livingearth.la.

2. Bird-watch in a cemetery in Altadena
Pasadena Humane will host a wildlife walk from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Friday through Mountain View Cemetery in Altadena. Guests will learn about local birds, squirrels and coyotes, and also the history of the graveyard. Tickets are $7.18. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Locate lizards in Culver City
Herpetologist Earyn McGee will host a lizard art walk from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday at the Stoneview Nature Center (5950 Stoneview Drive) in Culver City. After taking a hike to observe lizards in their natural habitats, McGee will lead the group in an art activity at the nature center. Register at docs.google.com.

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The must-read

A large elk tromps through grasses near a cliff with the blue Pacific Ocean in the background.

A male tule elk frolics near the Tomales Point Trail, part of the Point Reyes National Seashore in Inverness.

(Josh Edelson / For The Times)

Point Reyes National Seashore is a stunningly beautiful 110-square-mile expanse about an hour north of San Francisco. It’s at the heart of a debate between environmentalists and ranchers over the best way to manage the landscape. Times staff writer Susanne Rust wrote that after a lawsuit brought by environmentalists over the future of ranching there, in 2025 “a settlement was announced with the National Park Service laying out how the park would function going forward. Natural landscapes and wildlife would take priority over agriculture. Eleven of 13 historic ranching families would leave and be made whole for their losses.” But the remaining two families want to continue the fight. And they’re apparently finding the ear of the high-ranking officials of the Trump administration.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

I’ve had a handful of moments on the trail when I felt like I was in real danger. The time I accidentally went off trail and ended up on an unstable hillside, dropping my pack in a river below. The time a bear slapped my tent. And because I’m a wimp, the moment when two entangled snakes emerged from the bushes and looked at me — before returning to their tryst. If you hike often enough, you will undoubtedly run into some kind of trouble. I’d love to hear from you. I write Between a Rock, an outdoors survival series that I hope helps educate other outdoors folks about how to respond in the face of emergencies. I’ve interviewed folks who’ve faced down mountain lions and bears, and underprepared strangers. You can submit your story via this form, and I will reach out if I’d like to hear more. I love these interviews because I always learn something too.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

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Nicolas Jackson transfer news: Villa close to £65m move for Chelsea forward

Aston Villa are close to an agreement to sign striker Nicolas Jackson from Chelsea in a deal worth up to £65m.

There is a broad agreement between the clubs over the terms of a move for the 25-year-old, with Chelsea set to achieve their asking price with an initial sum of £47.5m with £17.5m in add-ons.

And if the Senegal international agrees personal terms and completes the switch to Villa his arrival is likely to trigger England international Ollie Watkins’ move to Saudi Pro League side Al-Hilal.

The deal remains subject to personal terms being agreed, but negotiations are at an advanced stage, with Jackson expected to reunite with Unai Emery having played under the Villa boss at Spanish club Villarreal.

Jackson would become the latest player in Villa’s summer rebuild following the arrivals of record buy Johan Manzambi, midfielder Joao Gomes, goalkeeper Zion Suzuki and defender Matteo Ruggeri.

However, there has also been significant movement out of the club and Watkins leaving would mean they had sold five of the starting XI who won the Europa League in May.

Morgan Rogers, Youri Tielemans, Lucas Digne and Ezri Konsa have already left with goalkeeper Emiliano Martinez expected to depart too.

Chelsea are weighing up a move for the Argentine, who is now deemed surplus to requirements after Suzuki joined from Parma.

In signing Jackson, Villa would be getting a forward who joined Chelsea from Villarreal for £35m in 2023 and scored 30 goals in 81 appearances.

His most recent appearance for the Blues came against Fluminense in the Club World Cup in 2025, while he also won the Europa Conference League with the club.

He spent last season on loan to Bayern Munich, scoring 11 times in 34 games and helping Bayern win the Bundesliga.

Chelsea banked a £14.3m loan fee from the move, though an obligation to buy for £56.2m was not triggered after Jackson failed to make 40 appearances of 45 minutes or more.

Fellow forward Liam Delap is also likely to leave the Blues, with a £50m fee agreed with Nottingham Forest for the striker.

Meanwhile, the club have also been holding talks with Atalanta’s Honest Ahanor, 18, over a potential move to Stamford Bridge. The defender is valued at £34.3m by the Italian club.

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