easily

Obama easily captures strongest win yet in S.C.

Barack Obama romped to victory Saturday in the South Carolina Democratic primary, a landslide powered by African American voters energized by a chance to elect the nation’s first black president.

The win, the most lopsided of the campaign, gives the Illinois senator a big lift heading into the coast-to-coast balloting Feb. 5. He once more demonstrated strong support among young and change-minded voters, who helped set another record turnout.

“The choice in this election is not between regions or religions or genders,” Obama told a boisterous crowd in Columbia that repeatedly interrupted his remarks with cheers. “It’s not about rich versus poor, young versus old, and it is not about black versus white. This election is about the past versus the future.”

The outcome of the Democratic contest, after a week of racially charged campaigning, also suggested divisions that flew in the face of Obama’s message of unity. The Illinois senator won 4 out of 5 black votes in the state Saturday versus 1 out of 4 white votes, according to exit polls.

Hillary Rodham Clinton and John Edwards, who split most of the white vote, finished second and third, respectively. Clinton and Edwards ran even among white women; Edwards, a former North Carolina senator and a South Carolina native, carried a plurality of white men.

Obama made significant inroads with one group of white voters: He carried half those younger than 30.

He also fared well on issues. Half of voters cited the economy as the major problem facing the country; Obama was that bloc’s clear favorite. He enjoyed an even bigger edge among voters naming healthcare or the war in Iraq as the country’s biggest problem.

Clinton left the state about the time the polls closed at 7 p.m., but called Obama from her plane to congratulate him before taking off. Nearly final returns showed Obama with 55% of the vote, Clinton with 27% and Edwards with 18%.

Appearing hours later in Nashville, Clinton thanked South Carolina residents, then talked about the landslide of votes coming Feb. 5, when voters in more than 20 states — including California — will go to the polls.

“I want to tell you how excited I am that the eyes of the country turn to Tennessee and the other states that vote on Feb. 5,” the New York senator told a crowd of several hundred at Tennessee State University. “Millions and millions of Americans will have the chance to have their voices heard and their votes counted.”

Edwards, who carried South Carolina in his 2004 bid, vowed Saturday night to stay in the race “to give voice to millions of Americans who have absolutely no voice in this democracy.” He planned to campaign today in several states with Feb. 5 contests.

For months, Clinton was the leader in South Carolina polls, but that began to change as Obama’s campaign gathered strength. His support among black voters exploded after his Jan. 3 victory in the Iowa Democratic caucuses, and his win Saturday was bigger than many analysts had expected.

Speaking at a victory rally at the Columbia Metropolitan Convention Center, Obama declared: “After four great contests in every corner of this country, we have the most votes, we have the most delegates and the most diverse coalition of Americans that we’ve seen in a long, long time.”

Sounding themes similar to the speech delivered after his Iowa triumph, Obama decried a politics that foments division. “I did not travel around this state over the last year and see a white South Carolina or a black South Carolina,” he said. “I saw South Carolina.”

Giddy, the crowd chanted, “Yes, we can!” and “Race doesn’t matter!”

But at the same time, Obama took veiled swipes at Clinton and her husband, the former president, over the acrimony of the last week, saying, “We are up against the idea that it is acceptable to say anything and do anything to win an election.”

South Carolina, which was given the privilege of an early-voting slot to promote diversity in the Democratic race, was the first contested state with a large black population. Exit polls indicated that more than half of those who turned out Saturday were African American, up slightly from four years ago, and many had an eye on history.

About noon Saturday, 17 consecutive African Americans leaving a polling place in working-class Orangeburg said they had voted for Obama.

“It tells me that people and times are changing,” said Sarah Favors, who has taught for 25 years at historically black South Carolina State University. “And to see it happening here in South Carolina tells me that things are really changing, because people here like things to stay the same.”

There were 45 pledged national delegates at stake in Saturday’s voting, with Obama projected to win the most. But more significant was the momentum that comes with victory, which has gone back and forth between Obama and Clinton on virtually a weekly basis since his strong opening win in Iowa’s caucuses.

The two can now claim a pair of victories.

“This was a big win for Obama,” said John Anzalone, a Democratic pollster who is not affiliated with a campaign. “It shows this is going to be competitive all the way to the end.”

It could be ugly, too. South Carolina, a state with a history of incendiary elections, is where an already nasty contest turned raw and racial.

Obama and Clinton clashed in the harshest debate of the campaign: He derided her service “as a corporate lawyer sitting on the board of Wal-Mart,” she accused him of doing the legal bidding of a Chicago slumlord. Their venom carried over to the airwaves.

The Clinton campaign broadcast a radio spot suggesting Obama was at heart a Reagan Republican. Obama responded with an assertion that Clinton would “say anything to get elected.”

Clinton left the state for two days midweek and placed her campaign in the formidable hands of her husband, who won South Carolina in his 1992 White House run. Critics accused the former president of injecting race into the contest through a series of veiled remarks; he angrily denied the assertion, and campaign strategists said they were pleased with his prominent role.

But interviews with voters leaving their polling places Saturday suggested a backlash. About 6 in 10 said the former president’s campaigning was important in shaping their decision; of those, nearly half went for Obama, according to the survey conducted for television networks and the Associated Press.

Moreover, Obama handily defeated Clinton among those who made their minds up in the final three days of the campaign, when coverage of the former president dominated the news.

“It was a choice between old and new, and people wanted new,” said Dick Harpootlian, an Obama supporter and former state Democratic Party chairman.

But aides to candidate Clinton said Saturday that the former president would continue to campaign on his wife’s behalf as the race shifts to what is in effect a national presidential primary.

Up to now, the nominating fight has been a series of single-state battles in discrete regions: Iowa in the Midwest, New Hampshire in the Northeast, Nevada in the West and South Carolina below the Mason-Dixon line.

Florida Democrats vote Tuesday, but that contest has been diminished by a candidate boycott stemming from its violation of party rules forbidding such an early vote. The focus from here out is Feb. 5, when more than 20 states hold nominating contests. At stake will be nearly 1,700 national convention delegates, well over half the number needed to secure the nomination.

Despite cloudy, chilly weather, South Carolina Democrats posted a record turnout Saturday — more than 532,000 voters — continuing a pattern in this election season.

Unlike the race in Iowa, a mostly positive contest that buoyed many Democrats, South Carolina left a sour tang.

“A tough competition is good,” said Jenny Backus, a Democratic consultant watching from the sidelines. “But we have to come together in the general election. There are three qualified candidates. We would be better off debating their different leadership styles than ripping each other’s faces off.”

mark.barabak@latimes.com

Times staff writers Maria L. LaGanga in Columbia, S.C., James Rainey in Orangeburg, S.C., and Peter Nicholas in Nashville contributed to this report.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

S. Carolina results

Democrats

Barack Obama … 55%

Hillary Rodham Clinton … 27%

John Edwards … 18%

99% of precincts reporting

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Art trails, swimming spots and punt safaris, all easily accessible from Cambridge’s new train station | Cambridge holidays

Flat fields of poppies and ox-eye daisies stretch out to a wide horizon. There are butterflies, vetches, salad burnet. Skylarks sing overhead and a cuckoo calls from the trees near the river. Legend has it that the poet Lord Byron swam here as a Cambridge undergraduate and, 20 years later, Charles Darwin surveyed its beetles. Heading through flowering meadows towards a nature reserve known as Byron’s Pool, I’ve walked a mile from the new £250m Cambridge South station.

Opening to passengers on 28 June, Cambridge South will be the first Great British Railways-branded station. The towering Biomedical Campus next door is Europe’s biggest medical research facility, with about 40,000 visitors a day. The station itself, with its 1,000 cycle-parking spaces, living roof and solar panels, feels like a model for sustainable transport.

The new Cambridge South station, with its living roof. Photograph: Bav Media

Like other scenic medieval cities, Cambridge itself suffers from congestion. Its cobbled alleys are crowded with tourists, its roads gridlocked with cars. But you can reach some wild and peaceful corners without adding to the traffic. There are layers of human and natural history, a newly devised art trail, bat safaris by punt and a peaceful botanic garden near the busy central station.

Cambridge has been my nearest city for the last 15 years. With lots of buses and now three stations, it’s easy to get around without a car. I’ve spent countless days exploring, and published guides to the long-distance Harcamlow Way, a 140-mile (227km) figure-of-eight walking route that loops between Cambridge and Harlow. The best rural bus routes include the busway from Cambridge North station (opened in 2017) to Fen Drayton lakes and bus 1 to Fulbourn for orchid-rich fens and chalk-flowered Saxon Fleam Dyke.

Walking and cycle paths head out in all directions from the new station at Cambridge South, and I am following one of these to Trumpington, stopping for bao buns and peach oolong tea at the Dao cafe. In the village church, I find one of England’s oldest brass monuments. Sir Roger de Trumpington, who died in 1289, is lying in prayer and full chain mail, with a little lion-clawed dog biting his broadsword. Just south of the church, archaeologists unearthed the grave of a young Anglo-Saxon woman, with a delicate gold-and-garnet cross on her chest.

Heading north through Grantchester Meadows, I have a dip in the reedy River Cam, keeping my head above the willow-shaded water. Sun glints off ripples as I swim past waterlilies, moorhens and straggling blue forget-me-nots. Walking on towards the city through Paradise nature reserve, there are birds everywhere: a cetti’s warbler sings loudly from a reedbed and a song thrush from a waterside alder. A mother duck quacks warnings from a nest-topped tree stump as ducklings paddle underneath.

Cambridge University Botanic Garden. Photograph: Travelbild/Alamy

Twenty minutes further on, Cambridge University Botanic Garden (adults from £8.60, children free) is at its fragrant best. Bees are buzzing through sage, lemon balm and lavender in the scented garden; roses sprawl above foxgloves and cranesbill. There are benches in the cow parsley under walnut and cherry trees, where I sit and listen to blackcaps and chiffchaffs. I detour five minutes up the road to buy a slice of apricot tart from Maison Clement bakery and eat it on the train home.

In the last decade or so, several hotels have (re)opened near the central station, from the right-next-door Ibis (doubles from about £80) to the fancy University Arms (from about £175), where Parker’s Tavern brasserie can pack you a gourmet picnic hamper (£45pp) with 24 hours’ notice. Nearby, one of the city’s newest offerings, Hobson by Adina, has studios from about £125.

The next day, I catch bus 13 three stops to the iron age hill fort at Wandlebury, stroll round its wooded ramparts and past flax-blue meadows, sweet with wild marjoram. The grassy track of an old Roman road runs through shady beeches and pink dog roses.

Heading back into the city, I time-travel to Victorian Cambridge, when designers such as William Morris commissioned master painter FR Leach to decorate halls and churches. I thought I’d visited nearly all the city’s 30-odd museums and galleries, but until recently I hadn’t even heard of David Parr House, which is 10 minutes’ stroll from the main station. Parr was a working-class artist, employed by Leach to paint flowers, fruit, foliage and ornate text for Arts and Crafts designers across the country. By 1886, he had saved enough to buy a terrace house on Gwydir Street, which he decorated in the style of the interiors he worked on every day. A visit to the cosy house (from £15) reveals decades of hand-painted decoration and illuminates the city’s social history.

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The house is just off Mill Road, now one of Cambridge’s foodie meccas, lined with indie eateries serving noodles, souvlaki, bibimbap, bamya stew or exceptional plant-based tasting menus. Once a rough track to a windmill, Mill Road expanded with the railway into closely packed terraces. Parr’s house stands opposite an old redbrick brewery, now a stylish coffee shop. The house recently produced a new FR Leach walking map, which takes me to All Saints’ church on Jesus Lane, with its red, gold and green decor, and the Michaelhouse Cafe in a converted church, where Leach paintings can even be found in the loo. Down the road, Great St Mary’s has a 360-degree view from the tower (adults £7.50).

The hand-painted interior of All Saints’ church. Photograph: Adrian Powter

After a cone of tangy blackcurrant ice-cream at Jack’s Gelato, I wander down the road to the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (free) to see the jewelled Trumpington cross of that young Anglo-Saxon woman, alongside a gallery of Cambridge finds, from stone-age axes to eel-catching prongs. Over the road in the Museum of Zoology (also free), I pass through sea stars and rock pythons to find Darwin’s box of neatly labelled beetles.

As the museum closes, it’s time for supper at Jordanian Little Petra: crisp-and-creamy aubergine fatteh, topped with a jewel-like layer of nuts, parsley and pomegranate seeds, and Bedouin tea, brewed with fresh mint and sage. Finally, heading to the river, swifts are whirling and screaming as the sun sinks behind the colleges.

Iain Webb, community conservation officer at the local wildlife trust, dreamed up the bat safari 15 years ago and regularly guides punts full of nature-lovers along the Cam towards Grantchester on summer evenings (£71 for two). “We need nature more than nature needs us,” says Webb. Despite all the pressures on the Cambridgeshire countryside, it’s a rich, idyllic scene.

A kingfisher flashes past, herons fly overhead with huge, slow wingbeats, and the banks are gold with carpets of buttercups. Daubenton’s bats skim low over the water, while pipistrelles swoop between dark willow branches, flickering in and out of visibility, like creatures from some parallel dimension. A few stars are coming out, the darkling air is full of birdsong, and tawny owlets are calling from a nest among the trees.

Transport was provided by Greater Anglia. Find more info at Visit Cambridge

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