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‘Spider-Noir’ review: Spider-Man remixed with Humphrey Bogart

The endlessly exploitable Spider-Man is back in “Spider-Noir,” a retro tale set in a recognizable New York in an inconsistent 1933 (to judge by a preponderance of cultural referents). There is a comic-book precedent for this version of the character, called simply the Spider, though research tells me that, costume and superpowers aside, he is different in nearly every respect. I don’t suppose that will be an issue for most of you.

Shot in “authentic” black and white, the eight-episode series, which premieres Monday on MGM+ channel and streams Wednesday on Prime Video, is something of a stunt, but one that offers a reasonable, (imperfectly) period-appropriate approach to the material. (Stylistically, it belongs to a later decade.) An available colorized version, which seems primarily a sop to younger viewers who refuse to watch anything in black and white, works less well, flattening and softening the image, making the special effects look less special, the expressionist photography less expressive and ordinary scenes more artificial. You can probably tell which I’d choose, but you do you.

Nicolas Cage, in his first live-action television role, plays Ben Reilly, a down-at-the-heels private eye, spiking his morning coffee with whiskey helpfully provided by his knowing secretary, Janet (Karen Rodriguez), and barely scraping by on the occasional divorce case. Five years earlier, as the Spider, he was a super-powered guardian of the people; but he gave it up after the love of his life was murdered on the Spider’s account. In this variation, she’s the one who told him that with great power comes great responsibility, that well-worn Marvel homily, quoted in this world as if it were the work of Abraham Lincoln and not Stan Lee. But Reilly, who calls himself a coward and claims to be no hero, regards his mutant abilities as “a part of me I wish never existed. With no power, there’s no responsibility.”

Naturally, in the Spider’s absence, things have gone to pot in Gotham. “The city’s a mess,” says Reilly’s best and only friend, unemployed reporter Joe “Robbie” Robertson (national treasure Lamorne Morris, keeping it real, relatively speaking). “The people could use a hero.”

“Well, I hope they find someone,” says Ben.

A man in a plaid coat, orange-hued suit and brown hat stands in an alleyway crowded with people.

Robbie Robertson (Lamorne Morris) is a journalist and Ben Reilly’s best friend.

(Aaron Epstein/Prime)

Nevertheless, you will not be surprised that, much against his will, Reilly will fall into a web, tee-hee, of intrigue; involving the city’s bootlegging crime boss, Silvermane (Brendan Gleeson, serving a full Irish breakfast), whose superpower is that he has very nice hair; Silvermane’s sort-of mistress, femme fatale nightclub singer Cat Hardy (Li Jun Li), a bird in a gilded cage; and Cat’s bodyguard, Flint (Jack Huston), who has gone missing. Nor will it shock you to learn that other super-powered entities will turn up, to give our hero — who soon enough will be swinging through town, somehow never losing the fedora perched atop his masked head — someone his own size to pick on him.

To coin a phrase, some are born super-powered, some become super-powered and some have superpowers thrust upon them, and in every case this comes with a serving of tragedy and trauma, for heroes and villains alike. If there’s a theme to “Spider-Noir,” beyond “make another Spider-Man show,” it’s this, and there’s a spine of sadness that runs through the series, its best and most depressing feature (and, taking “noir” at is word, fitting to the genre).

The photography and production design, achieved through whatever combination of backlot shoots, dressed locations, digital environments and black magic, work better and worse (though never bad) from shot to shot, but Alfred Hitchcock used background projections and model trains, and it’s nice to see Manhattan before those pencil-thin supertowers began polluting the skyline. (It’s the city as King Kong first knew it.)

The pacing can drag at times. The music goes everywhere but the represented period and characters quote lines from movies yet to be released. The writing and the acting boldly flirt with cliche and caricature, which, as the show is about 100% pastiche, drawn from films more than three-quarters of a century old, could scarcely be avoided and isn’t really a problem. (In a way, it’s the point.) You may spot a scene pinched from Orson Welles’ “The Lady From Shanghai,” narrative echoes of “Casablanca,” a line playing off James Cagney’s final words in “White Heat,” just off the top of my head.) But the overall what and why of the story is clever and the conclusion satisfying.

Cage, who voiced a different version of the “Spider-Noir” character in the animated “Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse,” is a good choice for the weary gumshoe. (The series is about 75% detective story, 25% superhero) Metafictionally, he’ll bust out an Edward G. Robinson imitation, mouth Cagney dialogue sitting alone at the movies. But the main model is Humphrey Bogart, whose looks Cage’s recall more than a little; Bogart played Sam Spade and Philip Marlowe in the films most associated with those characters, whose mordant humor creator-writer Oren Uziel seeks to replicate here, with fair success. One can forget that Cage, who finds a middle way between doing a bit and playing a person, is a good comic actor, and not merely a weirdo.

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‘It’s beautiful off-season’ A weekend in the iconic Italian city and how to find wine for just a few euros

OUR Spotlight On column gives you the lowdown on what to see and do in some of the most popular holiday destinations – as well as some unsung areas.

This week, we’re taking a look at Venice, made up of a group of islands famous for its winding maze of beautiful canals.

Venice is world-famous but there is a way to do it on a budget Credit: Alamy

Travel Reporter Cyann Fielding raved about visiting off-season.

She said: “I visited Venice after the peak season had finished in October – the weather was mild but more enjoyable and all the crowds had disappeared.

“Having read a lot about the city before I visited, I knew to not get a gondola as it would cost me a small fortune.

“But still wanting to see Venice from its waterway, I grabbed a €25 (£21.59) water bus day pass where I hopped on and off boats around the city and got to see many of the amazing views that you see on a gondola (just minus the narrow waterways).

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“Eating out in the city can be expensive, but there are plenty of supermarkets around, which are super affordable.

“My family and I managed to pick up a bottle of wine, some meats and cheeses for around €40 (£34.55) total and heading to a pontoon to eat – a much prettier spot than most restaurants.

“The city is also full of quirky Airbnbs which I would recommend over hotels as they often boast original Venetian architectural features.

“And definitely don’t miss out visiting Murano and Burano – two islands in the Venetian Lagoon with the former known for its historic glass-blowing factories and the latter known for picturesque multicoloured houses.”

MUST-SEE/DO

Ride a gondola along the waterways. A 30-minute trip costs from €80 (£69.10) – you can pay more to be serenaded by a singer.

Or try this money-saving tip that won’t sink your budget: to get the experience for just €2 (£1.73) per person, hop on board a traghetto, a smaller taxi gondola that will take you from one side of the Grand Canal to the other.

Venice is much quieter if you visit outside of summer Credit: Alamy

HIDDEN GEM

Venice is made up of around 118 islands, and the main city in the lagoon is really all about tourism.

Many of the locals live and work on the surrounding islands, including Giudecca, just south of the city.

It’s one stop away by vaporetto (water taxi), which has a calmer vibe, but will still give you a fascinating insight into the traditional Venetian way of life.

Here, you’ll find craftsmen making souvenirs in workshops, people creating traditional Venetian masks and glass, or jewellery from paper and growing vegetables in their gardens – everything you’ll buy in the main city.

BEST VIEW

The most obvious is the 98.6metre-tall St Mark’s Campanile (bell tower) in the famous St Mark’s Square.

The tallest structure in Venice, it was originally a watchtower to look out for ships. It costs €15 (£12.96) to enter and you’ll be pleased to know there’s a lift, which takes just 30 seconds to reach the top.

Shopping for famous Venetian masks is a must Credit: Alamy

RATED RESTAURANT

The Hotel Bauer has a rooftop restaurant, De Pisis, with views over the Grand Canal, while the traditional Ristorante Do Forni (where Charles and Diana dined in 1985) is famous for its seafood dishes and dining room modelled on the Orient Express.

At Trattoria Al Gatto Nero, lagoon-fresh seafood and homemade pasta is made quite literally from scratch – so if you want the lasagne, be prepared to wait two hours.

BEST BAR

In 1948, founder Giuseppe Cipriani Senior invented the Bellini cocktail (white-peach puree and Prosecco) in Harry’s Bar, by the Grand Canal. One drink will set you back €22 (£19) – if you can get in

The Cantina do Mori is the oldest wine bar in Venice, founded in the 15th century, and probably one of the smallest.

It’s like stepping back in time as you enjoy local wines and cicchetti – small Venetian tapas.

Costing just a few Euros for wine and food, it’s a charming bargain. They’re open from 8am, but don’t expect coffee – it’s just wine.

HOTEL PICK

Escape the inflated prices by staying further down the coast in the quiet town of Jesolo, at the five-star Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa – ideal for families and couples with fantastic food, pools and playgrounds.

Its sea-view balconies look out on to nine miles of sand, so you can have a beach holiday, too. See falkensteiner.com/en/hotel-spa-jesolo.

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Not Tirana or Prague – Europe’s cheapest city for a 2026 holiday is named

The items studied were two nights’ three-star weekend accommodation, a three-course meal for two with a bottle of house wine, a cup of coffee, a bottle of beer and Coca Cola, a glass of wine, return airport transfers, a 48-hour travel card, a sightseeing bus tour and tickets to top heritage attraction, top museum and top art gallery

An often-overlooked city with a rich history and breathtaking natural scenery is Europe’s best-value city for a short break.

Despite having a population smaller than Reading and sitting hundreds of miles inland from the coast, Sarajevo is a destination that packs a serious cultural punch, while being perfect for a summer holiday.

If for no other reason than for how cheap it is.

The capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina has topped Post Office Money’s City Cost Barometer 2026, ranking it the cheapest of the 50 European destinations included.

The items studied were two nights’ three-star weekend accommodation, a three-course meal for two with a bottle of house wine, a cup of coffee, a bottle of beer and Coca Cola, a glass of wine, return airport transfers, a 48-hour travel card, a sightseeing bus tour and tickets to top heritage attraction, top museum and top art gallery. Sarajevo’s total basket price was £248 – less than a third that of last place, Oslo.

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According to local tour guide Nermin Numic, life in Sarajevo is cheap and easy. Filling up on the city’s most famous local dishes, such as grilled minced meat cevapi, or the slow-cooked stew Bosanski Lonac, is easily achievable for £5. A fancier dinner and drink will set you back £15 a person.

In the high season, a simple room for two can be found for under £50, while higher-end hotels and Airbnbs charge around £150.

Nermin spent time out of the country during the Kosovo War and Covid, experiences which helped him see his home through different eyes.

“Sometimes it takes time being separated to appreciate things. It is amazing for me what this city and country has. So much diversity and these amazing mountains that I took for granted.”

Known as the Jerusalem of Europe, Sarajevo is a place where cultures, regions, and religions intersect. The Ottoman influence can be felt in the narrow winding alleys, bustling copper-smithing bazaars and traditional timber-framed houses. It butts up against the Austro-Hungarian influence, felt in the wide European avenues, grand neoclassical facades, and opulent public buildings, reflecting the city’s rapid modernization in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

“It’s diverse in so many ways. It is called Little Jerusalem, it has churches, mosques, and synagogues next to each other, and it has for centuries. There are Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and communist social blocks part of the town,” Nermin explained.

The city sits between four mountains that hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, meaning skiing opportunities in the colder months – and hiking trails in the summer – are within easy reach.

While Nermin insists that two days and nights in the city is the absolute minimum required, any flying visit should take in the disused bobsleigh track. “It is now a canvas for local artists. You can walk down the track from the hills into the city,” he said.

The Old Town is another must. “It looks very exotic, but feels familiar. It’s a meeting of cultures. Look east, and you’re in Turkey. Look west, and it feels Hungarian.”

Suitably for a destination known for closing divides and bringing cultures together, Sarajevo is a place of bridges. Thirteen of them to be precise. The best-known is Latin Bridge, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in an event that triggered the WWI. The Mostar Bridge is on the cover of almost every Bosnian travel guide, arching dramatically as it does over the emerald green Neretva River.

Unlike Bosnia and Herzegovina’s second city, Mostar, Sarajevo is rarely crowded. The one exception is in August, when the diaspora returns and the Capital’s film festival injects a real buzz into the place.

Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Sarajevo, while Wizz Air takes off from Luton. Return fares this summer are available for around £60.

All of the five cheapest cities in the Post Office Money rankings are in Eastern Europe. Bucharest (£258, Romania), Tirana (£263, Albania), Belgrade (£265, Serbia) and Trenĉin (£272, Slovakia) complete the top five. All five now offer direct flights from the UK.

Lowest-priced cities

  1. Sarajevo – £248.27
  2. Bucharest – £258.07
  3. Tirana – £262.85
  4. Belgrade – £265.13
  5. Trenčín – £271.64
  6. Riga – £278.19
  7. Lille – £289.33
  8. Vilnius – £289.39
  9. Strasbourg – £319.13
  10. Podgorica – £332.45

Most expensive cities

  1. Oslo – £733.99
  2. Copenhagen – £670.65
  3. Edinburgh – £668.10
  4. Geneva – £644.22
  5. Barcelona – £641.03
  6. Dublin – £610.79
  7. Amsterdam – £609.18
  8. Cork – £602.38
  9. Venice – £579.92
  10. Madrid – £579.92

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Guardiola delivers emotional farewell as Manchester City manager | Newsfeed

NewsFeed

Outgoing Manchester City manager Pep Guardiola said the memories and relationships built during his decade at the club mattered more than the 20 trophies he won, as he reflected emotionally on his unforgettable spell at City following his final match in charge.

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San Francisco immigration court has shut; asylum cases in chaos

There are no immigrants waiting for rulings anymore at San Francisco’s main immigration court, no lawyers making arguments.

The court, which had 21 judges when President Trump was sworn in last year, had only two left when it closed May 1. The rest had been fired, retired or resigned amid a White House purge of federal immigration judges.

The closing is one more reflection of the turmoil that has upended the immigration court system as the administration looks for ways to churn through its massive backlog of 3.8 million asylum cases and deport as many people as possible.

Asylum denial rates have soared as the administration has fired almost 100 judges deemed to be too liberal, and approved using hundreds of military lawyers to replace them. Immigrants have been arrested when they arrive at courthouses or government offices for scheduled appearances.

But amid the nationwide upheaval, San Francisco is the first major city to be left without a primary immigration court, leaving chaos and dysfunction in a region long known for its friendliness to asylum seekers. The two remaining judges will work from another federal building in the city but will be part of an immigration court across the bay.

That reputation, court insiders say, might have led to its downfall.

“It was a vibrant legal scene and so I think if you were looking to target a court you would have to look at what San Francisco stands for,” said Jeremiah Johnson, an immigration judge in the city until he was fired in November. He is now executive vice president of the National Assn. of Immigration Judges.

Most of the court’s 117,000 immigration cases have been moved to a courthouse in Concord, a city about 30 miles away that opened two years ago to help with San Francisco’s backlog of cases. But turmoil has also reached that city. A courthouse that had 11 judges at the start of 2025 is down to five after a series of firings. It had a caseload of 60,000 cases even before the San Francisco cases were shifted over.

San Francisco’s immigration court, which had the third-highest number of asylum cases in the nation, was long considered one of the most favorable to people seeking asylum. From 2019 to 2024, almost 75% of petitioners received some form of relief, compared with 43% nationwide, according to data compiled by the Transactional Records Access Clearinghouse, a nonprofit data research center based at Syracuse University.

That’s partly because San Francisco, with its vast network of pro-immigrant organizations and pro bono or low-cost legal services, had one of the country’s highest rates of legal representation for immigrants.

The Executive Office of Immigration Review, the Department of Justice branch that oversees immigration courts, announced in March that it would close the San Francisco courthouse in 2027 as a cost-saving measure and move its cases to Concord. But the end came early after nearly all the San Francisco judges left or were fired. The Executive Office provided no detailed explanation for the changes, saying in a statement only that it had decided not to renew its lease for the court, and doesn’t comment on personnel matters.

Tight security in Concord courts

Security is tight at the Concord courthouse, perhaps because of the new influx of cases. Armed security guards ask every person if they are carrying weapons or explosives, and they watch as each person turns off their cellphone. Even coffee is not allowed in. Only water is acceptable, and then only if it’s in a transparent bottle.

Judah Lakin, an immigration attorney based in Oakland who also teaches at UC Berkeley School of Law, said the closure of the San Francisco court has made cases more time-consuming since it’s harder for his clients, who often travel from hours away, to reach Concord on public transportation.

One recent 10-minute hearing in Concord took him more than two hours of travel, he said.

But beyond logistics, Lakin said the chaos in immigration courts under the Trump administration has created a fraught court atmosphere. Mass firings have led to last-minute hearing cancellations, cases have been reset with little notice, and clients are often left in prolonged legal limbo, leaving them vulnerable to deportation.

One of his clients, he said, was provisionally granted asylum by a judge, who was then fired before signing the decision. The case was transferred to a second judge, who was also fired. Now on their third judge, his client is still waiting.

“The ground is constantly shifting underneath your feet, whether it’s judges being fired and hearings getting canceled, whether it’s your clients getting arrested, whether it’s getting denials on things that used to be standard and routine,” Lakin said.

“I think that’s on purpose. That’s by design. It’s part of the strategy,” he added.

‘Heartbreaking’

San Francisco’s immigration court was one of the first in the nation to hire judges with non-prosecutorial backgrounds, with many having previous experience working with immigrants at nonprofits or defending them in court.

To see the court close is “heartbreaking,” said Dana Leigh Marks, a former San Francisco immigration judge who retired in 2021 after 35 years on the bench and who was among the first judges in the nation to be hired from private practice.

She sees the Trump administration’s decision to close the largest immigration court in Northern California as part of an effort to undermine due process and eventually dismantle the path to asylum.

“It’s all a part of big ways and little ways that the Trump administration is trying to get noncitizens out of the country,” she said.

Johnson, the fired San Francisco judge, was appointed during the first Trump administration. He believes he was targeted because he granted asylum in 89% of the cases he heard.

“You don’t fire judges if you disagree with the way they’re handling a case; that’s not how courts work. If you disagree, you appeal that decision,” he said.

Johnson, who is the executive vice president of the National Assn. of Immigration Judges, defended his judicial record, pointing out that over eight years, only about 10 of his cases were appealed by the Department of Homeland Security, and very few were sent back for further hearings by the Board of Immigration Appeals.

Unlike federal courts, where there are strict rules of procedure and judges have lifetime tenure, the Justice Department runs immigration courts, and the attorney general can fire the judges with fewer constraints.

There were 754 immigration judges across the country at the start of Trump’s second term. Now, there are about 600, including some temporary judges, according to data collected by the judges’ union. Widespread courthouse arrests of immigrants have caused hundreds of people not to even show up for hearings, leading to deportation orders in absentia.

Nidaa Pervaiz came to the Concord court on a recent day to represent a client from Nepal. She prefers the new courthouse in some ways, since it’s closer to her home.

But, she said, she and her clients are already feeling the impact of the changes. Fewer judges leads to fewer hearings. That means more delays for her clients, whose paperwork can expire even before they can appear before a judge.

“Their whole lives are at stake, and they are coming to make a plea for their future” she said.

Rodriguez writes for the Associated Press.

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‘A paper city’: New York ‘library’ hosts 3.5 million pages of Epstein files | Human Rights News

A mile from the Manhattan jail where convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein was found dead in 2019, an unassuming Tribeca gallery at 101 Reade Street has been transformed into a physical archive of the disgraced financier’s many cases.

More than 3.5 million pages of law enforcement documents published by the United States Department of Justice have been printed, bound and stacked across 3,437 volumes to line the walls of a room from floor to ceiling.

The exhibition, titled “The Donald J Trump and Jeffrey Epstein Memorial Reading Room”, was organised by the Institute for Primary Facts, a nonprofit that says it focuses on transparency and anti-corruption initiatives.

Epstein was arrested on sex trafficking charges in July 2017 before hanging himself in his New York jail cell a month later, denying victims a chance at justice. The “reading room” is an attempt to shed light on the many cases connected to Epstein that never went to trial.

The shelves hold documents released under the Epstein Files Transparency Act, alongside timelines, handwritten visitor notes, and a memorial space dedicated to survivors and victims.

Since opening two weeks ago, the gallery has drawn a steady stream of visitors, including survivors of a string of offences linked to Epstein.

Lara Blume McGee, who was only 17 when she was abused by Epstein, visited the reading room last week.

“I found something brutally human in the Trump-Epstein reading room,” Blume McGee told Al Jazeera. “Proof that our lives mattered enough to be gathered, cataloged, and finally seen.”

She described entering the room as walking into a “paper city”, with three and a half million pages on display, a sight that hit her “like a physical blow”. What she remembers most vividly is the silence.

“The silence was thick with memory,” she said. “Row after row, each bound volume a life, a name, a day that should never have happened if the US government had acted when he was reported to the FBI in 1996.”

The overwhelming scale of the archive is intentional. Organisers say the physicality of the documents forces visitors to confront not only the extent of Epstein’s crimes, but also the number of lives affected by them.

Thousands of victims have been identified in connection with Epstein’s abuse network. One of the most prominent survivors, Virginia Giuffre, died by suicide in April 2025.

David Garrett, a co-founder of the exhibition, said the project was built around survivors from the outset.

“We are centred around the victims and survivors more than anything,” Garrett said. “The biggest thing is transparency and accountability.”

Garrett described the exhibition as part of a broader effort to create “real-life pop-up museums” aimed at generating public pressure around corruption and institutional failure.

“Our goal is how can we drive public outrage in order to put pressure on Congress and the Department of Justice to get full and real transparency and hopefully eventually accountability,” he said.

The process of assembling the archive was itself chaotic. Garrett said organisers downloaded the files from the Department of Justice in March, believing they had received properly redacted documents. Only after printing the collection did they discover that many survivors’ names remained visible in the files.

“What seems to have happened is the Department of Justice modified its search function instead of actually redacting the names,” Garrett said. “The names of survivors were left unredacted while the names of witnesses and co-conspirators were hidden. They brazenly broke the law.”

Finding a venue also proved difficult. Garrett said several locations backed out after initially agreeing to host the exhibit, fearing controversy or retaliation. The Tribeca gallery ultimately became the fifth venue that organisers approached.

Despite these challenges, survivors and advocates quickly embraced the project.

On Tuesday, the gallery became the site of a 24-hour livestream reading of the files led by survivors, advocates and supporters.

Dani Bensky, an Epstein survivor, opened the broadcast Monday afternoon, standing at a podium inside the dimly lit gallery with one of the thick white volumes in her hands.

Her reading marked the beginning of a continuous public recitation of excerpts from the files – an attempt, organisers said, to ensure the documents are not quietly buried again.

Throughout the gallery, visitors have left flowers, handwritten notes, and messages of grief and anger.

Garrett recalled one woman who spent hours walking silently through the space before telling organisers she was herself a survivor of sexual abuse.

“She said this helped her realise that she felt seen,” Garrett said. “That meant a lot to us.”

For Blume McGee, that feeling of visibility carries both relief and frustration.

“For years we were told to be quiet, to accept settlements, to move on,” she told Al Jazeera. “Seeing our truths preserved in a public archive felt like a long-overdue acknowledgment of our pain, our abuse and our reality.”

But she warned that documentation alone is not justice.

“This exhibition gives real hope because the record is now undeniable,” Blume McGee said. “Finally, there is action: documentation, visibility, proof. But those same files map systemic failure — how many doors stayed shut, how many people escaped scrutiny.”

“Visibility without consequence only prolongs the wound,” she added. “We need both: the files on the table and the government to act — investigate, prosecute, reform — so that being ‘finally seen’ becomes finally safe.”

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European beach city nicknamed ‘Little Barcelona’ with hidden coves and £4 wine has £18 flights from the UK

DID you know that an Italian island has its own ‘Little Barcelona?’

With honey-coloured architecture and beautiful beaches, the coastal city is known to be a slice of Spain.

The city of Alghero in Sardinia is nicknamed ‘Little Barcelona’ Credit: Getty
It has beautiful beaches like Maria Pia Credit: Alamy

Follow The Sun’s award-winning travel team on Instagram and Tiktok for top holiday tips and inspiration @thesuntravel.

On the island of Sardinia is a coastal city called Alghero.

While it’s over 300 miles away from Spain, Alghero‘s link to Spain is from it’s Catalan history.

In 1353, Alghero was conquered by the Crown of Aragon and repopulated by Catalan settlers.

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Around 20 per cent of locals even speak Algherese, which is a dialect of the Catalan language and officially recognised by the Italian and regional governments.

Visitors will see that street signs throughout the old town are written in both Italian and Catalan too.

When it comes to looks, the two cities don’t strike up too much of a resemblance, but both have cobbled streets and golden-coloured buildings.

In Alghero you’re likely to see more of this in its Old Town.

The city has direct flights from the UK for as little as £18 Credit: Getty

This is where you’ll find its cafes and restaurants where you can pick up a glass of wine from €4 (£3.48) (or you can buy a bottle at the supermarket from €5 (£4.35)).

When it comes to what to do, most head towards the coastline and visit the city’s beautiful beaches.

One of the most popular is Spiaggia di Maria Pia which has white sand, and is backed by pine trees beach bars along the shoreline.

One visitor said: “The sea is completely Vicks blue – it’s absolutely amazing that there is such a lovely beach within walking distance of the cozy Alghero town.”

Barcelona and Alghero share the same honey-coloured buildings Credit: Getty

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Other pretty spots along the coastline include Spiaggia Mugoni and Delle Bombarde.

Something you can’t miss it Neptune’s Grotto (Grotta di Nettuni) which is a sea cave found at Capo Caccia with enormous stalactites and stalagmites.

The easiest way to reach it is by boat, otherwise take the 654-step staircase which has been carved into the fact of the cliff.

In June, Brits can fly directly to Alghero Airport from London Stansted with Ryanair from £18.



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L.A. crime has plummeted — but it’s still a hot mayor’s race topic

Homicides in Los Angeles are down to levels not seen since the 1960s. Neighborhoods once awash in gang violence now sometimes go weeks, even months, without a shooting. And the follow-home robberies and street takeovers that captured the public’s attention in recent years have largely subsided.

By many measures, the city is safer than it has been in generations — and yet voters following L.A.’s hotly contested mayoral race might think the opposite.

The challengers to Mayor Karen Bass have zeroed in on homelessness and public drug use to argue she hasn’t delivered on public safety, while also criticizing how the Police Department has operated and been funded during her tenure.

Mike Bonin, a former L.A. City Council member, said the fact that Spencer Pratt — the former reality TV star who has been attacking Bass from the right — has gained so much traction in the race is proof of how Bass and other candidates to the left have failed to change “prevailing narratives that the city is unsafe.”

A man in a suit speaking to another man

Mayoral candidate Spencer Pratt hosts a campaign block party on 10th Avenue in Los Angeles on May 20, 2026.

(Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Pratt has been particularly active on social media, where he has shared artificial-intelligence videos created by fans depicting him as various superheroes coming to the rescue of a city that, under Democratic rule, has turned into a dystopian hellscape.

In a March 26 post on Substack, Pratt railed against the thousands of drug-related calls that emergency officials respond to every month. He has said that if elected mayor, he would order the police and fire chiefs and the county health director to “treat every encampment as a grave-disability zone.”

“No new laws needed,” he wrote. “No endless task forces.”

Flanking Bass on the left is Nithya Raman, a progressive City Council member who was once the mayor’s political ally.

Raman has argued that Bass has thrown too much money at the LAPD, with raises for police officers coming at the expense of other basic services such as park maintenance and street paving. Raman said the LAPD pay increases have “bankrupted” the city, depriving other services of much-needed funding. In campaign ads, Raman has cast herself as a more sensible alternative to Bass. Raman has said she would work to reduce traffic deaths and prioritize safety on the city’s buses and trains.

When she first ran for office in 2020, Raman called for defunding the police, saying the Los Angeles Police Department should be a “much smaller, specialized armed force.” Since then, however, she has voted for some budgets that increased spending on law enforcement.

In response to questions from The Times, Raman said she would work to find ways to overhaul public safety.

“I’ll propose budgets that expand unarmed response, work with LAPD to improve 911 response to more quickly answer calls for help that don’t require armed officers, and will appoint leadership at the Police Commission who will actively partner with the City Council to work on reform,” she said.

Representatives for Pratt and Bass didn’t respond to requests for interviews with the candidates.

Bonin said Bass — who supported various police reform measures while Congress — has shocked some of her supporters with how “aggressively pro-police she has been.”

When she ran for mayor in 2022, Bass vowed to retool the recruitment and hiring process in order to restore LAPD staffing to 9,500 officers. That hasn’t happened. The number of sworn officers recently fell below 8,600, despite Bass striking a deal with the police union to offer higher starting salaries and new retention bonuses.

A woman with curly, short brown hair, wearing glasses and a mustard yellow jacket, speaks while holding a microphone

Mayor Karen Bass takes part in a candidate forum on May 5, 2026, in Sherman Oaks.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

On Thursday, the City Council approved a $15-billion budget for the upcoming fiscal year, which included funds to hire 510 new officers — just enough to offset turnover and maintain current staffing levels.

Raman has said the LAPD should not shrink any further because there aren’t enough officers to respond to 911 calls “in a timely fashion.”

Samantha Stevens, a Los Angeles political consultant and former legislative staffer, said people seem willing to back Pratt because he acknowledges that their sense of safety has been shaken — even if he has offered few concrete details about how to tackle crime beyond cracking down on homelessness.

Pratt’s critics say that his plan relies on funneling homeless people into a shelter system that doesn’t have the capacity to handle them all. Others have noted that the aggressive tactics he has proposed would probably face legal challenges.

A woman speaks at a lectern with a sign that says 'Nithya for Mayor' in a dirt lot

L.A. City Councilmember Nithya Raman, who is running for mayor, makes a campaign stop at the site of a home burned in the Palisades fire.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

“He’s kind of a case study in somebody who has a lot of opinions but has no idea of how the city is run,” Stevens said.

Fernando Guerra, a political science professor at Loyola Marymount University, said Pratt seems to have tapped into a deep well of discontent among Angelenos who believe that crime and homeless have spiraled out of control. The challenge for Bass, he added, is that although the numbers suggest that crime has decreased, many people associate the sight of encampments spilling onto public sidewalks as “a breakdown” that indicates the city is becoming less safe.

“You want to go back to the days of Daryl Gates, you’ve got Pratt,” he said, referencing the former LAPD chief whose controversial police sweeps in the late 1980s yielded thousands of arrests while alienating large segments of South L.A.

“If you want more of the same from the past 20 years, you’ve got Bass,” Guerra added. “And if you want something new, then you’ve got Raman, but she has to explain what exactly she wants to do.”

Although Pratt and Raman appear to be the strongest challengers to Bass, several long-shot candidates have also made public safety a key issue in their campaigns. Some have gone after Bass for her support of LAPD Chief Jim McDonnell. Hired by Bass in 2024, McDonnell has touted the impressive drop in crime under his leadership, but also faced criticism over an uptick in shootings by police and aggressive crowd control tactics during protests against the Trump administration’s immigration policies.

A man in dark police uniform holds his fingers together as he stands in front of another man

Police Chief Jim McDonnell attends a news conference at LAPD headquarters on May 21, 2026.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Rae Huang, a minister and housing rights advocate, said if elected mayor she would immediately replace McDonnell with someone who has the “ability to really reimagine what public safety really looks like.”

“I’m the only one with the guts to say that out loud,” Huang told The Times during a recent campaign stop at a bookstore in the West Adams neighborhood.

In social media posts and interviews, Huang has frequently referred to the LAPD as “one of the biggest legal gangs in the world,” and said she would work on diverting money from the police budget to scale up programs that have shown promise in sending unarmed specialists to deal with emergencies that involve people experiencing mental health crises.

The city is already running two such pilot programs, but under Bass they have remained underfunded, Huang said. Last week, the City Council signed off on expanding one of the programs.

Huang said she would also invest more heavily in addressing the city’s lack of affordable housing, which she said is an underlying cause of crime and homelessness.

The Los Angeles Police Protective League has poured hundreds of thousands of dollars into attack ads against Huang and Raman.

Adam Miller, a tech entrepreneur, has tried to strike a balance in his mayoral campaign, advocating for changes while acknowledging that many people still feel unsafe despite the historic drop in violent crime.

He criticized a recent vote by the L.A. City Council to limit so-called pretextual stops, in which officers pull people over for minor traffic infractions in order to investigate more serious offenses. The stops have been blamed for enabling racial discrimination.

Miller said that “constraining the Police Department is the opposite of what we should be doing.” He called for “leveraging” AI and modernizing the department’s archaic computer systems, which he said could allow the LAPD to catch up to other agencies that have embraced new technology.

Miller told The Times that he recently went on a ride-along with officers from the Rampart Division, which he said was eye-opening.

“At the highest level I think Angelenos don’t feel safe anymore,” he said. “They don’t feel safe in their neighborhoods, but more recently they don’t feel safe even in their own homes.”

Statistically speaking, the city might be safer than it’s been in decades, he said — but that doesn’t necessarily matter to voters.

“I don’t think it’s just perception,” he said. “I think it’s reality that crime has spread.”

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L.A. voters will cast ballots in eight City Council districts, two with open seats

Los Angeles voters will cast ballots in eight City Council district elections next week, including for two open seats where incumbents are leaving because of term limits.

The contests for the seats being vacated by Councilmembers Bob Blumenfield and Curren Price have drawn large fields of candidates, but the biggest spending has been in the Westside’s District 11, where incumbent Traci Park is facing challenger Faizah Malik, a public interest attorney and one of four council candidates backed by the local chapter of Democratic Socialists of America.

Park has raised $1.3 million, according to the latest campaign finance reports filed Friday, while challenger Faizah Malik reported about $520,000 in contributions. In addition, more than $3 million has been spent in the race by so-called independent expenditure committees that spend money to elect or defeat candidates but which are barred from coordinating their activities with the campaigns.

The district includes Venice, Mar Vista, Brentwood and Pacific Palisades, which was devastated by wildfire in January 2025.

Malik said Friday she is confident heading into the primary election, saying most of her donations are under $100 each, and that she hasn’t taken money from corporations.

Los Angeles City Council candidate for CD11 Faizah Malik attends a canvassing event.

Los Angeles City Council candidate Faizah Malik attends a canvassing event March 15 in Westchester.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

“This is what it means to be a grassroots candidate, and it is just more evidence that the people of CD11 believe in our vision for a Westside that is affordable for everyday people,” Malik said.

A Park campaign aide said Park’s haul is indicative of the councilmember’s record of getting results.

“But no one is taking anything for granted,” the aide said in a statement. “We’re working until the final vote is cast because this election will determine whether the Westside keeps moving forward or gets pulled backward into the same failed ideological politics Angelenos are exhausted by.”

Los Angeles City Councilmember Traci Park gives a pep talk to members of United Firefighters of Los Angeles City.

Los Angeles City Councilmember Traci Park, center, with members of United Firefighters of Los Angeles City on May 12.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Park has emphasized her advocacy for fire recovery efforts, including pushing for permit fee waivers for residents wanting to rebuild. Malik has said Park has been too focused on single-family homeowners and said she would focus more energy on renters.

They have contrasting views on policing: Malik said she opposes expanding the size of the Los Angeles Police Department and instead supports shifting more resources to the city’s unarmed crisis response program. Park said the Police Department should have about 10,000 sworn officers, up from about 8,700 currently. She voted in favor of a 2023 LAPD contract that gave raises to officers and increased salaries to new hires.

They stand in contrast of each other on the Venice Dell housing development project, which would turn a city lot into 120 housing units for low-income and homeless people. Park opposed the completion and instead wants to turn it into a “mobility hub” and move the housing project to an adjacent lot. Malik, who represented the developer that filed a suit against the city claiming Park and others sought to kill the project, said the project was a motivating factor for her campaign.

District 9

Six candidates are vying to replace Councilman Curren Price, who hit the 12-year limit, in District 9. The district includes the Convention Center, USC and communities along the Harbor Freeway.

The candidates vary on key issues, including policing and housing. Estuardo Mazariegos, co-director of the Alliance of Californians for Community Empowerment Los Angeles, is backed by the Democratic Socialists of America. He has called for reducing the LAPD budget and redirecting funds to other city departments.

Two other candidates — Jorge Hernandez Rosas, an educator, and Jose Ugarte, who previously worked for Price — said they support hiring more police officers. Another hopeful, Elmer Roldan, executive director of Communities in Schools of Los Angeles, said he believes in keeping the LAPD at its current size.

Ugarte, Roldan, Rosas and Martha Sánchez, a therapist, all support enforcing Municipal Code 41.18, which bars homeless encampments near schools and daycare centers. Mazariegos and Jorge Nuño, an entrepreneur, say the code doesn’t solve homelessness and instead just moves people around.

Ugarte has raised the most in contributions of any candidate and has been endorsed by the Los Angeles County Democratic Party in the nonpartisan race.

District 3

Three candidates are competing for an open seat in District 3, where Councilmember Bob Blumenfield has termed out of office. The district encompasses Woodland Hills, Canoga Park, Reseda, Winnetka and Tarzana.

The candidates are Tim Gaspar, who founded an insurance company, Barri Worth Girvan, district director for Los Angeles County Supervisor Lindsey Horvath, and Christopher Robert “C.R.” Celona, a tech entrepreneur.

The three candidates are similarly positioned on public safety, backing Mayor Karen Bass’ long-term goal to increase the LAPD ranks to at least 9,500 officers. All three also support enforcing Municipal Code section 41.18.

Gaspar and Worth Girvan have both scored key endorsements. Gaspar is backed by Blumenfield, billionaire developer Rick Caruso and Councilmembers Monica Rodriguez, Tim McOsker and John Lee and billionaire developer Rick Caruso. Worth Girvan has endorsements from a long list of state Democratic lawmakers, the county Democratic Party, the Sierra Club and labor unions.

Gaspar leads in campaign contributions, followed by Worth Girvan. Celona, who has promised to resuscitate the city’s entertainment industry by fast-tracking film permits and cutting red tape, trails far behind.

District 1

Councilmember Eunisses Hernandez faces four challengers in District 1, which stretches from Highland Park on the northeast to University Park on the southwest. She is backed by the local Democratic Socialists of America, and her challengers claim the district has suffered under under her leadership, pointing to MacArthur Park as emblematic of the homelessness and drug addiction crisis plaguing the city.

Hernandez counters with a list of accomplishments, including helping secure a $6.3-million state grant to house homeless individuals near the Arroyo Seco riverbed and advocating for a citywide network of unarmed crisis response teams.

She faces challenges from Maria Lou Calanche, a former Los Angeles police commissioner and founder of the nonprofit Legacy LA; Nelson Grande, an executive consultant and former president of Avenida Entertainment Group; Raul Claros, founder of California Rising; and Sylvia Robledo, a small-business owner and former council aide.

Hernandez’s campaign has also faced an onslaught of accusations of “dark money” spending. A group called Neighbors First has sent mail pieces critical of Hernandez and other leftist City Council candidates.

District 5

Incumbent Katy Yaroslavsky faces two challengers for her District 5 seat, both of whom oppose her stance on housing and public safety spending. The district includes some of the city’s wealthiest neighborhoods, including Bel-Air, Westwood, Cheviot Hills and Hancock Park.

Challengers Henry Mantel, a tenants’ rights lawyer, and Morgan Oyler, an accountant, say Yaroslavsky hasn’t done enough to increase the district’s housing supply. Yaroslavsky, who holds a wide lead in fundraising, has said she supports increasing housing density near transit centers but cautioned against building more than the city can sustain.

District 13

Councilmember Hugo Soto-Martínez, who is also backed by the Democratic Socialists of America’s L.A. chapter, faces three challengers in District 13, which includes Atwater Village, Glassell Park, Elysian Valley, Echo Park, Silver Lake and East Hollywood.

The list of challengers includes Colter Carlisle, vice president of the East Hollywood Neighborhood Council, Dylan Kendall, who runs Grow Hollywood, and Rich Sarian, vice president of strategic initiatives for downtown’s South Park Social District.

While Soto-Martínez supports expanding the city’s unarmed personnel program, Carlisle and Kendall would like to expand the police force. Sarian has said he supports the unarmed personnel program and wants to examine the LAPD’s current size and resources.

District 15

Incumbent Tim McOsker is facing off against community organizer Jordan River in District 15, which covers Harbor City, Harbor Gateway, San Pedro, Watts and Wilmington. McOsker has decades of experience in the political world, having worked in the mayor’s office, and the city attorney’s office before joining the City Council in 2022. Rivers, who is unemployed, is a member of the Green Party.

District 7

Monica Rodriguez is running unopposed for the District 7 seat in the northeast San Fernando Valley.

Times staff writers David Zahniser, Noah Goldberg and Sandra McDonald contributed to this report.



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Beautiful ‘city of dreaming spires’ has UK’s best bookshops and runs on its own time

There’s nothing better than losing track of time while wandering around a city bursting with character before popping into cosy bookshops – and there’s only one UK city for it

A beautiful city brimming with cosy bookshops, including one that holds a Guinness World Record, offers the perfect escape for book lovers or those looking to explore the ‘city of dreaming spires’.

With the magnificent medieval architecture of Gothic spires and honey-colored stone, against grand libraries, cobbled streets and narrow lanes, a stroll around Oxford is enough to transport you to a scene from Hogwarts. And rightly so, as the historic city, renowned for its prestigious university, was used as a filming location for the Harry Potter franchise.

The historic Duke Humfrey’s Library, which dates back to 1487 and is part of the Bodleian Libraries, was portrayed as the Hogwarts Library in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Meanwhile, the vaulted ceiling of the Divinity School was used as the backdrop for the Hogwarts Infirmary.

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But it was Christ Church College that provided numerous scenes for Harry Potter, with its staircase and hallways used to represent Hogwarts, and its Tudor great dining hall famously inspiring The Great Hall in the wizarding boarding school. New College also took centre stage with its ancient covered cloisters and courtyard, used to portray parts of Hogwarts.

UK’s best city for bookshops

Yet away from its famous movie links and breathtaking architecture that characterise the city, Oxford is an oasis for bibliophiles. The city has the optimal balance of world-famous literary heritage and a vibrant, modern vibe, so there really is something for everyone.

Thanks to its literary delights of more than 30 bookshops nestled among the historic streets, Oxford was named as the UK’s best city for bookshops by Time Out. The publication conducted a survey and found that 60 per cent of people said that Oxford’s book offerings were either ‘good’ or ‘amazing’, and it’s easy to see why.

The city is the birthplace of the well-known UK bookseller and library supplier, Blackwell’s, after it was founded in 1879. Its flagship store is situated on Broad Street in Oxford, and is a labyrinthine maze of shelves stacked with hundreds of thousands of titles.

Yet it’s the Norrington Room, nestled underground, that is perhaps the most impressive feature of this sprawling bookshop. Spanning 10,000 square feet and featuring over three miles of shelves stacked with more than 150,000 books, it is officially the largest single bookselling room and holds a Guinness World Record for this impressive accomplishment.

A wander around the store is a bookworm’s haven, welcoming a gentle calmness away from the busy streets outside, along with a friendly atmopshere, and of course, an abundance of enticing reads. Many have often described it as a tardis-like space, as it spans across multiple floors, with a welcoming café to enjoy a warming cuppa and sweet treat alongside a gripping thriller -it’s easy to spend hours in the historic yet cosy bookshop.

Independent bookshops

But that’s not the only notable offering for bibliophiles alike. Elsewhere, there’s the independent Bookstop and the Last Bookshop by Bill and Ben Books, with a focus on those preloved titles, alongside the little shop of Arcadia found on St Michael’s Street.

In Oxford’s iconic 250-year-old market, where small shops burst with eateries, vintage clothing and produce, there’s Gulp Fiction, which hosts book clubs, author events and jazz nights. St Philip’s Books, situated next door to the Alice in Wonderland shop, is another highlight in the city for those rare finds, while Daunt Books in Summertown is packed with titles suitable for all ages.

Yet it’s easy to lose track of time while exploring Oxford, especially as the city famously runs on its own time.

‘Oxford time’

Before the railway standardised British time back in the 19th century, cities would set clocks by the sun. Due to Oxford’s location, its natural solar time is five minutes and two seconds behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). In a long-standing tradition, it’s known as ‘Oxford time’, and today, many of its scheduled events and lectures begin five minutes past the hour.

Whether you’re an avid reader or simply want to explore the historic sites used as a film set and a place on its own time, a day trip or weekend escape to Oxford is absolutely worth it. Just be sure to set your watch five minutes and two seconds behind to experience it like a local!

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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Dash beat Angel City, earn first win in 51 days

Maggie Graham scored in stoppage time to lift host Houston past Angel City for the Dash’s first victory in 51 days.

Graham fired a shot from just outside the box after a series of one-touch passes up the middle of the field. Houston (4-5-2) ended a six-game winless streak.

Kat Rader put Houston on the board in the 17th minute. Angel City (4-5-1) tied it nine minutes later on Maiara Carolina Niehues’ penalty kick.

Houston was without goalkeeper Jane Campbell after she sustained a head injury Wednesday against San Diego. In her place, Caroline DeLisle made her first career NWSL start.

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Travel industry worries after Trump administration reiterates threat to ‘sanctuary city’ airports

The travel industry is on edge after Homeland Security Secretary Markwayne Mullin reiterated his threat to withdraw U.S. Customs and Border Protection officers from airports in so-called sanctuary cities in a move that could jeopardize international flights.

The U.S. Travel Assn. said that Mullin confirmed he is considering withdrawing the officers in a meeting where the trade group was pressing its concerns about other proposals the Trump administration is considering that could hamper travel. The travel association and major airlines quickly condemned the idea, and even Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy said it doesn’t make sense to him.

“U.S. Travel believes such a move would have devastating consequences for the travel industry and communities that depend on international visitation,” the industry group said Friday in a statement.

Details of the meeting were first reported by the Atlantic.

Duffy said at a congressional hearing this week that he wasn’t familiar with Mullin’s remarks, and he’d like to learn more about the context and maybe ask Mullin a question about what he meant. But Duffy said it would be a bad idea to start restricting travel based on political views. After all, he acknowledged, at some point Democrats will be in charge and “you will all switch spots at one point — hopefully not too soon, Mr. Chairman.”

“We have people from around the world and around the country that need to be able to fly into all different kinds of places. We shouldn’t shut down air travel in a state that doesn’t agree with our politics,” Duffy said.

So it’s not clear how much support this idea has within the administration, though President Trump has previously threatened to withhold funding from sanctuary cities.

There is no strict definition for sanctuary policies or sanctuary cities, but the terms generally refer to jurisdictions that limit cooperation with U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement. And courts have rejected the idea of pulling funding from them in the past.

In Trump’s first term in office, in 2017, courts struck down his effort to cut funding to the cities.

It’s not clear exactly which cities and airports Mullin might target, but the Justice Department last year published a list of three dozen states, cities and counties that it considers to be sanctuary jurisdictions. They include California, Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego County.

The Airlines for America trade group was quick to say the idea would hurt the economy and disrupt travel.

“Reducing CBP staffing at major airports would have a devastating effect on the airline and tourism industries, causing a significant operational disruption to carriers, travelers and the flow of international cargo.”

Funk and Yamat write for the Associated Press.

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I travelled to a little-known European city and what I found was unforgettable

Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city, offers plenty of surprises, as I found out during a trip to the city in May

Wandering through the streets of a lesser-known European city that days earlier I knew very little about, a piece of street art featuring three grandmas wearing reflective sunglasses caught my eye.

‘Silence, please!’ was the clear instruction accompanying the mural as, full of curiosity and intrigue, I tentatively stepped inside the entrance of a colourfully-painted courtyard of apartments to take a peek.

I saw a couple of tourists grabbing phones from their coat pockets, working their way around the vibrant little snicket and snapping photos. A small but exciting place to stumble upon, it felt like something of a hidden secret.

And one I came across in Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city. It is a place that has long lived in the shadow of its postcard-pretty capital Vilnius, located an 80-minute drive away, but one full of little surprises.

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Between the wars, while Vilnius was under Polish control, Kaunas was the country’s temporary capital. In that time, it found itself producing one of Europe’s richest collections of architecture, which was recognised by UNESCO in 2023.

As I wandered through the confines of the Yard Gallery, I soon realised Kaunas was worthy of far more than just a quick stop-off. It has a creative soul I had not encountered in many other places during my travels.

The free-to-enter open-air street display was started by artist Vytenis Jakas who, having noticed some had become alienated, wanted a way to bring neighbours together and commemorate the lives of former Jewish residents.

Walls bloom with street art, with the powerful words of John Lennon’s Imagine immortalised on one, and a giant elephant and seagull stopping you in your tracks on another. There are more understated features, like mirror mosaics, stained-glass windows, and photograph memorials to past residents. It felt distinctly lived in, with cars parked outside, refuse bins and clothes lines draped around the murals.

My stop in Kaunas being fleeting, it was time to join Lithuania Travel and visit one of the country’s oldest and largest art museums, M.K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art, devoted to the local genius.

I explored the cosmic and dreamscape-like fantasy world of the artist and composer’s sounds and images, which told the story of his more than 300 paintings and 400 musical compositions.

The Trail of Angels virtual reality experience was an unexpected pleasure. Via a headset, I found myself immersed in the paintings, swirling around on a fully-rotating chair, floating through symbolic forests. What felt gimmicky on paper beforehand proved to be unexpectedly moving and peaceful.

It is not just art, but food, which has a firm place in the city’s creative ambitions.

I took a stroll along the length of Liberty Avenue, Kaunas’ most prominent and longest pedestrian street, flanked with trees, shops and cafes, and the awe-inspiring neo-Byzantine Catholic Church of St Michael the Archangel.

In the church’s shadow is Sija, a barely five-month-old restaurant which is set to have its food featured in the Michelin Guide – despite its infancy and only having four members of staff.

Inside, I met owner and chef Rakas Vasiliauskas and partner Greta Rutkauskaite, whose vision is to celebrate exclusively Lithuanian cuisine.

So much so, even lemon, pepper and oil are omitted. I tried a trout, presented with cucumbers, kefir and purple potato. A particularly tasty dish that showcased the best of local ingredients without the typical theatrical fuss.

Elsewhere, DIA restaurant left a lasting impression with its luxurious decor, mirrored ceilings and a full-blown tree acting as a centrepiece to one table. But its food was even more memorable.

Lamb, accompanied by pea-mint puree, cuttlefish tuile, chicken jus, pea pods, baby carrots and baby potatoes, came together to create an exquisite dining experience I will not forget in a hurry.

There is a feel of history and reinvention in Kaunas, with every restored facade or repurposed courtyard offering a frequent reminder of where it has been and where it is going. It is perhaps the mural of the sunglasses-wearing grans which captures the spirit of the city most, acting as a symbol for a place which has endured, adapted and emerged with its sense of humour and style still intact.

Book it

UK flights from London Luton Airport to Kaunas with Wizz Air start at £19.99 per person.

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Verdugo Hills claims City Section Division I baseball title

Verdugo Hills, the fourth-place finisher in the Valley Mission League with a 10-18 record entering the City Section Division I playoffs, completed a remarkable turnaround on Saturday, winning its fourth consecutive playoff game to take home the Division I title with a 3-1 victory over Taft at Dodger Stadium.

No one was picking the Dons in this one. They had used their two best pitchers in a 10-inning semifinal win over top-seeded Sylmar. But coach Angel Espindola had a plan.

“I’ve got tricks up my sleeve,” he said.

Anthony Velasquez threw a complete-game one-hitter while relying on his defense to make the routine plays and deal with six walks and only one strikeout. At the plate, the hero was first baseman Cutlor Fannon. He had an RBI double in the first inning and an RBI single in the seventh.

But there was drama in the bottom of the seventh inning. The Toreadors’ Victor Jara represented the tying run at the plate with two outs. He hit probably the hardest ball of the day to deep left field.

“The last one scared me,” Velasquez said as he watched left fielder Moises Rodriguez stick out his glove running to catch it and start a victory celebration.

Rodriguez said he “felt all my emotions running through me” as he chased down the fly ball.

“It was surreal,” he said.

Verdugo Hills pitcher Anthony Velasquez threw a complete game in 3-1 win over Taft at Dodger Stadium.

Verdugo Hills pitcher Anthony Velasquez threw a complete game in 3-1 win over Taft at Dodger Stadium.

(Craig Weston / For The Times)

Espindola’s best coaching moment came in the bottom of the sixth inning. Taft drew consecutive walks from Velasquez with one out. Espindola went to the mound for a pitcher conference.

“Relax,” is what he told Velasquez.

Then Taft hit into an inning-ending double play.

Verdugo Hills’ fielders more than handled the Dodger Stadium environment. Catcher Miguel Wong threw out a runner trying to steal second. Outfielders Rodriguez, Jack Iafrate and Jessie Olmos combined to catch seven fly balls. And third baseman D’Angelo Duran and shortstop Ethan Sanchez were flawless on ground balls.

As for what happened in the playoffs, Rodriguez said, “We changed our perspective to playing baseball instead of doing baseball. It was let’s have fun.”



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Trump likes Pratt. Will that help, or hurt?

We’re really almost there.

There is just over one week remaining before the June 2 primary for Los Angeles mayor, city attorney, city controller and eight of the 15 City Council seats.

As of Friday morning, 333,000 mail-in ballots had been cast in the race, up from 321,000 at the same time in 2022, according to the L.A. County Registrar/Recorder.

The Trump card

Spencer Pratt’s foes in the Los Angeles mayor’s race like to say that the former reality television star lacks the experience needed to run a big city.

But Pratt might have an even bigger liability — any sense that he may be aligned with President Trump.

Cygnal, a national polling group that has worked for Republican candidates, found that tying Pratt to Trump and the MAGA movement is a bigger turnoff to Democrats than his reality television past.

According to its poll of 500 likely Los Angeles voters, Pratt’s reality TV resume made 59% of overall Democrats less likely to vote for him. By comparison, tying Pratt to MAGA and Trump made 65% of Democrats less likely to vote for him, Cygnal said.

Pratt is a registered Republican and on Wednesday, Trump signaled support for Pratt in the mayoral race. On Thursday, former Trump advisor Steve Bannon said the president didn’t formally endorse Pratt out of fears it would hurt Pratt’s chances in Democrat-dominant Los Angeles.

L.A. mayoral candidate Spencer Pratt hosts a campaign "block party" event.

Spencer Pratt at a recent campaign block party in South Los Angeles.

(Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Overall, including Democrats and Republicans, 24% of voters said tying Pratt to Trump made them more likely to vote for him while 50% of voters were less likely to vote for him because of it.

“Karen Bass is a fairly reserved individual, but you have to believe that backstage she was doing a happy dance after she heard Donald Trump’s comments,” said Dan Schnur, a professor of politics at USC, UC Berkeley and Pepperdine University.

The strongest pro-Pratt argument is a public safety argument that Pratt will reject “defund the police” policies and hold repeat offenders accountable.

The poll showed Bass at 25% support, Pratt at 22% and Councilmember Nithya Raman at 18%.

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Big money for Blumenfield seat

It hasn’t had the same sizzle as the mayor’s race, or been as pricey as the acrimonious campaign for city controller. But the battle to replace City Councilmember Bob Blumenfield in the west San Fernando Valley is turning into yet another high-stakes, big-money contest.

In that three-way race, a handful of special interests have now put more than $1 million into various efforts to elect businessman Tim Gaspar.

The Central City Assn., a downtown-based business group, has spent the most so far, pouring more than $400,000 into mail pieces, web videos and other campaign expenses, according to Ethics Commission filings. Most of its money has been coming from Airbnb, which is looking to loosen the city’s rules on homesharing platforms, by allowing second homes to be used as short-term rentals in the run-up to the 2028 Olympic Games.

Political aide Barri Worth Girvan, who is running to replace Blumenfield, criticized Gaspar over the influx of money, saying the “West Valley is not for sale.”

“Airbnb has destroyed countless neighborhoods around Los Angeles, and they clearly believe that my opponent will allow them to do that in the San Fernando Valley,” said Worth Girvan, who works for county Supervisor Lindsey Horvath. “Let me be clear — I will not allow that in our neighborhoods.”

Gaspar, in a statement, said he’s proud of the coalition supporting him.

“Like so many Angelenos, they are ready for change and new ideas that will actually get something done. Barri is offering nothing but the same tired excuses, empty promises, and failed ideas,” he said.

Under the city’s campaign finance rules, donors cannot give more than $1,000 to the campaign of a council candidate. However, independent expenditure groups can spend unlimited amounts, as long as they do not coordinate with the campaigns of their favored candidate.

Some of the other Gaspar backers who are spending large sums include the California Alliance of Family Owned Businesses, which represents McDonald’s franchisees, the California Apartment Assn. and Working Californians, a committee sponsored by International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers Local Union 18, which represents employees of the Department of Water and Power.

That committee is also partly funded by Airbnb, according to the Ethics Commission website.

Ethical supes

The Los Angeles County Board of Supervisors voted this week to establish its first ethics commission.

The creation of the new body aimed at preventing and eliminating corruption in county government was mandated by Measure G, which voters approved about 18 months ago.

That measure overhauled the county charter to create an elected county executive position and increase the number of supervisors from five to nine.

It also stipulated the establishment of an ethics commission and an office of ethics compliance, helmed by an ethics compliance officer.

Polling shows the effort has broad public support, according to Sara Sadhwani, a political science professor at Pomona College who served on a task force that made recommendations to the supervisors.

But there was still controversy before the Board of Supervisors voted 5-0 Tuesday to support to approve the plan.

Supervisor Janice Hahn said the ethics commission was intended to be an independent body whose members were not directly selected and appointed by elected officials.

She proposed an amendment that would have made it so commissioners were chosen from a list of qualified and interested people via a lottery system.

Hahn lost that battle and the county approved the plan without the change. The county assessor, the chair of the Board of Supervisors and starting in 2028, the newly minted county executive, will each appoint one ethics commissioner.

Those three commissioners will then select the other four members of the commission, who are subject to the approval of the supervisors.

State of play

— “THE HILLS” ARE ALIVE: The Times dived deep on Spencer Pratt’s history as well as his campaign, showing how he rose from reality television villain on “The Hills” to become a leading contender for L.A. mayor.

— TRUMP BUMP?: President Trump signaled support for Los Angeles mayoral candidate Spencer Pratt on Wednesday, wading into the local election less than two weeks before the primary.

— FRESH PRINCE: Spencer Pratt’s campaign for Los Angeles mayor has paid the Hotel Bel-Air more than $15,000 since April 7, according to Pratt’s latest campaign finance filings.

— PROGRESSIVE BLOCK: Three members of the L.A. City Council’s progressive bloc endorsed Mayor Bass for reelection, snubbing fellow progressive Nithya Raman in the June 2 primary. The endorsements from Eunisses Hernandez, Ysabel Jurado and Hugo Soto-Martínez underscore fractures on L.A.’s left. All three are members of the Democratic Socialists of America, as is Raman.

— HOLLYWOOD HOPEFULS: In campaign ads, interviews and the recent televised debate, the top three contenders: incumbent Mayor Bass, former reality TV villain Spencer Pratt and Raman, have made the ongoing production slump a pivotal topic, highlighting their plans to revitalize the industry while deploying the issue to undercut one another.

— WHITHER LATINOS?: Latinos make up nearly 37% of the L.A. electorate, making their votes crucial for anyone with mayoral ambitions. That has campaigns putting out ads and social media posts in Spanish, hitting the ground in Latino majority neighborhoods and rallying for key endorsements.

— HUNGRY FOR MORE: It’s the biggest slate of democratic socialists Los Angeles has ever seen. The L.A. chapter of Democratic Socialists of America is looking to push City Hall further left by backing candidates for city attorney and four City Council seats in the June 2 primary.

— OH, AND A BUDGET: The Los Angeles City Council signed off on a $15-billion budget for 2026-27 on Thursday, preserving Mayor Karen Bass’ police hiring plan while socking away more money for potential emergencies.

— AIRPORT DELAYS?: A $30 minimum wage for hotel and airport workers will be delayed after Los Angeles elected officials persuaded a group of business leaders to drop a ballot measure that would have devastated the city budget.

QUICK HITS

  • Where is Inside Safe? The mayor’s signature program moved 69 people indoors near Chinatown this week in Jurado and Hernandez’s council districts.
  • On the docket next week: The City Council will vote to approve a formal letter to remove the gross tax repeal from the November ballot.

Stay in touch

That’s it for this week! Send your questions, comments and gossip to LAontheRecord@latimes.com. Did a friend forward you this email? Sign up here to get it in your inbox every Saturday morning.

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My trip to the US city famous for beating the Brits… and the best boxing film ever

Collage of Philadelphia landmarks and food including Independence Hall, a decorated pub, a cheesesteak sandwich, and a statue with City Hall in the background.

THE American city of Philadelphia may be known as the home of brotherly love – but loves a good fight.

Its name combines the ancient Greek words philos, which translates as love or friendship, and adelphos, meaning brother, because founding father William Penn envisaged it as a haven of tolerance and peace.

The American city of Philadelphia is where the American Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776 Credit: Sean Pavone
As you step inside Independence Hall you are transported back 250 years Credit: Lucio Rossi

But the US state of Pennsylvania’s largest city is also, of course, where the Rocky movies were filmed — and everywhere homage is paid to cinema’s most famous boxer.

Philly also has another claim to fame, though, as the place where the American Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776 — and this year marks the 250th anniversary of that treaty. So there is plenty to explore.

Our base was the Loews Philadelphia hotel, a 20-minuite drive from the airport and just yards from the City Hall — topped by a 37ft statue of William Penn.

The hotel is also handy for many a fine restaurant and bar — including the historic McGillin’s Old Ale House bar and restaurant.

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The beer taps here have been pumping out ale since 1860 and the kitchen cooks up the city’s most famous dish — Philly cheesesteak.

This feast was the perfect introduction to my stay in town — layers of finely cut beef and sauteed onions shaped into a long roll and drenched in melted cheese.

Just forget that your arteries are closing as you eat it — and enjoy.

We did.

The Philly cheesesteak is the city’s most famous dishCredit: Refer to source
The historic McGillin’s Old Ale House bar and restaurant Credit: Photo by K. Huff for PHLCVB

Less than a 20-minute walk from here is Independence Hall, where that treaty was born.

Before entering, do swing by the Liberty Bell, just opposite, which rang out as America’s founding fathers, also including George Washington, finalised America’s break from mother country Great Britain.

Sadly, the 3ft-high bronze bell, which weighs nearly a ton, no longer rings out due to a crack that opened up in the 19th Century.

But on special occasions, it is tapped with a mallet.

Bell ticked off, as you step inside Independence Hall you are transported back 250 years, with history all around you.

It is free to enter but tickets at busy hours are limited so make sure you book your time slot well in advance.

Number one attraction is the room where the Declaration of Independence was signed, as well as the US Constitution 11 years later.

For a spot of culture, not far from Independence Hall is the Barnes Foundation — possibly the greatest art museum that, er, no one has ever heard of.

The Liberty Bell, which rang out as America’s founding fathers finalised America’s break from mother country Great Britain Credit: SeanPavonePhoto – stock.adobe.com
Pennsylvania’s largest city is where the Rocky movies were filmed, featuring Sylvester Stallone Credit: Rex

And then just a 15-minute walk up the road is the place for your must-have Philly holiday snapnext to the Rocky statue.

This 8ft 6in bronze tribute of Rocky Balbao stands at the foot of the 72 steps up to the Museum of Art which the underdog slugger played by Sylvester Stallone famously ran up as part of his gruelling big-fight training.

If all the sightseeing leaves you working up an appetite, there are plenty of fabulous eating places to choose from.

One such is the Reading Terminal Market, which is home to more than 75 stalls selling every food delicacy you can possibly imagine — and then some.

Or, for a proper sit-down feast, the Gran Caffe L’Aquila is a good bet — and particularly renowned for its award-winning gelatos.

I called it posh ice cream — and got a glare.

If, on the other hand, you want to find out what the locals really eat, book on to a Streats of Philly Food Tour and open your eyes, and mouth, to no end of tasty treats.

There are several tours to choose from, many led by chef Jacquie who grew up in the area and seemingly knows everyone in town.

I opted for the Italian Market tour and, over the course of two and a half hours, sampled fare including pork sandwiches, local cheeses and cannolis.

But do just remember not to eat anything before you go — the helpings were so generous that, after I later made for the airport to return home, I had to practically roll on to the plane.

GO: PHILADELPHIA

GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Philadelphia, with fares from £648 return. See britishairways.com.

STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Loews Philadelphia hotel cost from £146 per night. See loewshotels.com/philadelphia-hotel.

OUT & ABOUT: Admission to Independence Hall is free but tickets must be booked in advance, from the National Parks Service. Check out nps.gov.

Entry to the Barnes Foundation art museum (barnesfoundation.org) is 30 dollars per adult, five dollars for under- 18s. Chef Jacquie’s food tour is 99 dollars (streatsofphillyfoodtours.com).

MORE INFORMATION: Check out discoverPHL.com.

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‘It’s great for both city and nature’ The pretty city with medicine-style cocktails and Harry Style-loved pickles

People stroll and sit on benches next to "The Drop" sculpture and Vancouver's Coal Harbour.

OUR Spotlight On column takes an in-depth look at the best things to see and do in popular holiday destinations, as well as shining a light on some of the lesser-known spots.

This week, we are highlighting Vancouver in Canada, which will be hosting World Cup matches.

Make sure to visit Granville Island when going to Vancouver Credit: Alamy

The Sun’s Assistant Travel Editor Sophie Swietochowski said: “Vancouver is possibly the best spot in the world for holidaymakers that want to blend nature with a city break.

“The glorious Grouse Mountain is around a 15-minute from Downtown and offers nighttime skiing or glorious hikes in summer, while its main park borders the ocean and is a great place for spotting wildlife, including whales if you’re lucky!

“When you’re not soaking up the great outdoors, the shopping and restaurant scene is absolutely pumping with new trendy spots cropping up on a monthly basis.”

MUST SEE/DO

Granville Island is a popular spot, for a very good reason.

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The former industrial hub is littered with quirky crafts shops selling handmade goods that you won’t find anywhere else.

There are food markets too, selling the freshest of fish caught in local waters, as well as warm doughnuts and artisan pickles.

Harry Styles is reportedly a big fan of Hobbs Pickles.

HIDDEN GEM

While wellness may not be at the forefront of your visit to Vancouver, it has become huge on the local scene. Circle Wellness is a unique spa experience that will leave you feeling refreshed.

Visitors will get access to their own converted shipping container to undergo a therapy circuit of hot stones, a cold plunge pool and Himalayan salt chamber.

The Harbourfront walkway is beautiful to visit in the hot weather Credit: Getty

BEST VIEW

Many associate Vancouver’s mountains with skiing, but while it may be a popular sport in winter, that is not all there is to do.

Grouse Mountain is just as gorgeous in the spring and summer months.

It is celebrating its 100th commercial birthday this year and you can join in the celebrations by soaking up its beauty on one of many hiking trails or by mountain biking along its craggy paths. The views will blow your socks off.

Or take a stroll around Stanley Park, which is larger than New York‘s Central Park and has a sea-wall walk from which you might be able to spot whales.

RATED RESTAURANT

There’s no shortage of excellent sushi restaurants, thanks to Vancouver’s waterside location.

Some of the best sushi can be found at Miku Restaurant, which does an excellent deal with ten pieces of sushi, rolls and nigiri, plus appetisers and miso soup.

But you can pretty much sample any cuisine you wish in this city.

For cracking Vietnamese food, head to Anh and Chi, or for tapas, Como Taperia.

BEST BAR

Stanley Park Brewing occupies a prime spot in the park and is a great spot for ale lovers.

It brews its own tipples inhouse and you can sample a selection by ordering the beer flight or paddle.

If you are after something sophisticated, The Keefer has been voted the best bar in Canada and serves punchy cocktails.

Boozy drinks are described as “prescriptions” on the menu, with a section dedicated to concoctions inspired by sound.

If you love both nature and city then Vancouver has you covered Credit: Getty

HOTEL PICK

The 4H Westin Bayshore is well located by Stanley Park and near the main shopping hub.

There is a decent cocktail bar downstairs where mixologists like to get creative, incorporating theatrical props into the drinks.

There is an on-site spa and gym too.

Rooms cost from $224 per night (around £120). See marriott.com.

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Pep Guardiola: Manchester City exit through eyes of rival fans

Liverpool fan Josh Sexton can be found on outlets including The Anfield Wrap, external

It comes to something when your long-time nemesis says it is time to move on and you actually feel a little bit sad about it.

It feels like a chapter of English football is truly closing.

I actually grew to quite like Guardiola – a feeling made easier by Liverpool refusing to be any competition to his team this season.

Between his compassionate politics and his increasingly funny news conferences, the man who became the bane of our existence has started to cut a much more likeable figure.

The respect element was always there.

Yes, there are caveats to City’s success, but there are very few doubts about Guardiola’s greatness as a manager.

After Jurgen Klopp left Anfield in 2024, it seemed only natural that the man he went toe to toe with for so many years would move on fairly soon after.

The truth is, the standards those two managers set would warp our perception of what a normal title-winning points total looks like.

Arsenal have pipped Guardiola to the Premier League this season, but they have done so with a maximum of 85 points – a climbdown from the days of Liverpool and City pushing each other to 90-plus totals.

Liverpool have fallen away this season, but Guardiola moving on means the barrier to entry for a title race is likely to not be as high.

Therefore, Liverpool supporters should be reassured that a return to the top is not too far away, especially with such a talented group of players.

We might not see those 2018-2022 levels again for a little while, though, and for that we will always – at least partly – have Guardiola to thank.

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The very walkable capital that’s one of Europe’s cheapest city breaks

Collage of images showcasing Albania, with a minaret and a village in the foreground, Skanderbeg Square with a statue and a flag, and a table with food and red wine.

ALBANIA’S capital Tirana has just been ranked the third cheapest city for a weekend break in 2026. 

And when it comes to the accommodation, it pips the rest on the affordability scale. 

The hilltop town of Kruje, just a few miles outside Tirana Credit: Getty
The city’s Skanderbeg Square Credit: Getty

But its low prices are just the start. It’s great for food, bars and quirky sightseeing . . .  

WHY SHOULD I GO? 

THE city is one of Europe’s most underrated destinations. It has a fascinating history, which has been marked by periods of occupation and a harsh dictatorship that lasted until the 1990s. 

This has left its mark on the city skyline, which is a striking mix of brutalist, communist-era buildings and quirky architecture, including Tirana’s Rock — a 26-storey building uniquely shaped like a face. 

Plus, with round-trip flights from just over £30 — and only taking three hours — and temperatures that reach 34C in summer time, visiting is a no-brainer. 

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STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? 

THE centre is very walkable, with wide, tree-lined boulevards that criss-cross the main squares and key attractions. 

For a comprehensive introduction to the city, join the on-foot Tirana Free Tour, which departs five times a day from outside the Opera House. 

You will likely begin at Skanderbeg Square — the city’s main central plaza, named after Albania’s national hero.  

From here, you will be within easy reach of several attractions — The National Historical Museum, Et’hem Bej Mosque and Opera House. 

If you want to venture farther afield, Kruje is an historic town 12 miles north of Tirana. Buses from the main terminal cost less than £1, or you can get a taxi for around £25.  

The town is home to medieval castle ruins and has a bazaar packed with beautiful Albanian rugs and cashmere, which make perfect souvenirs. 

The mountain backdrop is a showstopper, too.  

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? 

A MUST-visit is the House of Leaves — former HQ of the country’s secret police

It is now a museum exploring the extensive surveillance and spying that Albanians endured during the dictatorship. 

And for cracking views, don’t miss a cable-car ride through Dajti National Park, a short taxi ride north of the city centre.  

There are a wide array of activities at the top of the mountain, including mini-golf and a shooting gallery, but those seeking a more relaxing experience should visit just before sunset to witness the stunning golden hour.  

For some proper R&R, head to Ritual Spa and Hammam.  

A traditional byrek – filo pastry stuffed with meat or cheese Credit: Getty
Tirana Skanderbeg Square from above Credit: Getty

Hidden behind an unassuming door on the second floor of an apartment building, the space opens up into a beautifully curated sanctuary complete with wellness areas, including a sauna, steam room and salt room. 

Treatments are cheap, too, with facials from £22 and hour-long massages for under £40. 

WHERE SHOULD I EAT? 

ALBANIAN food is a hearty, homely blend of Mediterranean and Balkan flavours.  

Oda restaurant in the Zona 1 area of the city is properly authentic, serving stuffed peppers, slow-baked lamb with yoghurt and flaky homemade pastries filled with cheese and spinach. 

You can dine outdoors under the shade of pomegranate and lemon trees while a roaming folk band brings the garden to life with traditional music. 

For budget-friendly bites, try the street-food stalls at the New Bazaar in the Pazari i Ri neighbourhood.  

Be sure to get your hands on a byrek — a filo pastry stuffed with meat or cheese that you can pick up for less than £1. 

I FANCY A DRINK… 

A WANDER through the lively streets of the Blloku neighbourhood will reward visitors with stylish speakeasy-style bars.  

During the dictatorship, this area was reserved for the communist elite and ordinary Albanians were not allowed to enter. 

But today, it’s the epicentre of nightlife in Tirana — and everyone is welcome. 

Start at Mugo, a chic bar with a low-lit, leafy garden, serving cocktails dressed with sugared fruit and edible flowers, all for under £10. Nunu, just across the road, is equally indulgent.  

Then continue along Pjeter Bogdani Street for a ready-made bar crawl, where casual drinking spots spill out on to the pavement and pints come in at under £4. 

For a proper Albanian night out, head to Ava Club, where DJs mix Balkan tracks with electronic beats and crowds whip white handkerchiefs through the air — a lively tradition that gets the whole place buzzing. 

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? 

FOR a central base, stay in the Tregu Cam district, or Blloku if you want somewhere a bit livelier. Budget, mid-range and boutique options are available in both districts. 

But for something basic yet reliable and very well located, look to the Tirana International Hotel, which has affordable rooms, an on-site casino, two restaurants and a bar. 

GO: TIRANA

GETTING THERE: Wizz Air flies from London Luton to Tirana from £31.80 return. See wizzair.com.

STAYING THERE: The 4H Tirana International Hotel has double and twin rooms from around £80 per night on a B&B basis. See tiranainternational.com.

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Leaked files, ‘nuclear verdicts’: Inside the L.A. city attorney race

The Los Angeles city attorney is often described as the most powerful elected official almost no one’s ever heard of.

The office prosecutes most misdemeanor crimes, defends the city against costly lawsuits and serves as the public’s chief lawyer at a time when L.A. faces frequent attacks from a hostile White House. Races for the office tend to be sleepy affairs, but this year’s contest has featured last-minute entrants, a whopping influx of cash and defections among the incumbent’s key supporters.

City Atty. Hydee Feldstein Soto’s first term was marked by an explosion in costly litigation against the city and allegations of misconduct and mistreatment of employees. She has denied wrongdoing and defended her record, but now two well-funded opponents are flanking her from different sides of the political spectrum.

The race began to heat up last month after a data breach that saw a massive trove of LAPD records leaked onto the internet. That spurred the city’s police union to withdraw its endorsement of Feldstein Soto and tell its members to vote instead for John McKinney, a Los Angeles County prosecutor who has received a massive influx of corporate cash to support his campaign in recent weeks.

The progressive challenger is Marissa Roy, a deputy attorney general in the California Department of Justice. Roy, 34, has said she would run the office as a sprawling “public interest law firm” that sues to fight wage theft and renter harassment, champions a care-first approach to homelessness and stands as a legal bulwark against the Trump administration.

Roy Behr, a veteran political consultant in the city, said Roy and McKinney have clear brands and target audiences, whereas Feldstein Soto may now be a candidate without a constituency.

“It wouldn’t surprise me at all if she didn’t make the runoff. What she’s facing are two people with pretty clear critiques from different directions,” he said of the incumbent. “All she’s left with is ‘I did an OK job in an office that people don’t really understand.’”

Feldstein Soto, 67, says she’s the steady hand the city needs as it faces a budget crisis and gears up to host the Olympics in two years. She scoffed at her opponents’ lack of experience in a recent interview, dismissing Roy’s campaign promises as “insane,” and noting that McKinney’s history as a felony trial prosecutor has little overlap with the city attorney’s job.

“This is not the time for on-the-job training,” she said.

A former corporate lawyer, Feldstein Soto squeaked through the primary before sailing to victory in her bid for the position in 2022. She has since taken heat for defending aggressive LAPD crowd control tactics, and also for her refusal to prosecute hundreds involved in 2024 campus protests against the war in Gaza.

Although Feldstein Soto has received endorsements from Mayor Karen Bass and Sen. Adam Schiff (D-Calif.), critics say frequent personality clashes have alienated her from the city’s Democratic kingmakers. McKinney called her a “bully” in a recent interview and said her behavior has demoralized her staff.

Feldstein Soto pushed back on those criticisms, touting steps she has taken to modernize the office and enhance public safety. She argued many of the allegations against her stem from a 2024 lawsuit filed by a disgruntled employee, who claimed they were subjected to a “barrage of retaliatory actions” after reporting issues within the office, including mishandling of grant funds, discriminatory treatment of co-workers and “inappropriate alcohol consumption” in the workplace. The case remains pending. Feldstein Soto said the employee was fired for having improper outside employment.

Los Angeles City Atty. Hydee Feldstein Soto

Los Angeles City Atty. Hydee Feldstein Soto hosts a May 12 news conference to discuss the recent prosecution and conviction of a UCLA early childhood teacher charged with sexual abuse.

(Carlin Stiehl / Los Angeles Times)

Explaining her decision to drop most charges in the campus protest cases, Feldstein Soto pointed out many lacked enough evidence for prosecution.

The city’s legal payouts have exploded under her watch — jumping from $64 million in the mid-2010s to $294 million in the last fiscal year. Feldstein Soto said the rising costs reflect an increase in “nuclear verdicts” in civil courts nationwide.

Feldstein Soto noted the city’s payouts were inflated by a “cascade of horrible” cases that were pending when she took office. She said she could only mitigate the damages, citing as examples cases that involved the city’s misuse of federal housing grants and a massive sewage spill.

“I’ve protected the city at every turn,” she said. “I’m the only candidate in my race who has the receipts to prove that I can do this.”

Roy said the biggest challenge may be convincing Angelenos to cast a vote at all in what has historically been a low-turnout, down-ballot contest.

“It’s where we always start, to be honest,” she said. “It is one of the most important, least understood positions.”

In a city where 60% of residents are renters and many feel under siege by the Trump administration, Roy has campaigned as a civil rights avenger ready to spar with landlords or the White House on behalf of working-class Angelenos.

She recently hit the streets sporting a crisp purple blazer, violet chrome manicure and a battered pair of black Rothy’s flats, evidence of the shoe-leather she and her army of volunteers have already invested in the race.

Roy typically starts her pitch by explaining what the city attorney actually does, then delivers her vision for the post.

“Of course it’s the lawyer for the city, but what people don’t realize is it’s also the lawyer for the people,” she said to one would-be voter in Silver Lake.

John McKinney speaks during a news conference.

John McKinney, a county prosecutor running for L.A. city attorney, speaks at a May 5 news conference where he received endorsements from Dist. Atty. Nathan Hochman and the Los Angeles Police Protective League, the union for rank-and-file LAPD officers.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

McKinney, 58, said he wants more “aggressive” prosecutions for misdemeanor gun crimes, and believes the city attorney has the power to “leverage” homeless people into mental health or addiction treatment after they’ve been arrested.

Despite having no experience as a civil litigator, the deputy L.A. County district attorney also thinks he can help drive down lawsuit costs for the city.

McKinney told The Times he envisions himself as “a protector, as the local prosecutor, and a defender, as the general counsel of the city.”

“I think public safety is the number one priority, or should be, of all elected officials,” he said.

While Feldstein Soto and Roy have raised considerable war chests, McKinney has received just $72,000 in direct contributions, according to campaign finance records. But independent expenditures supporting his bid have supercharged his finances in the last two weeks, pouring $1.7 million into the race.

The vast majority of those funds have come from a political action committee backed by Airbnb, which Feldstein Soto sued last year for violating price-gouging laws in the wake of the wildfires. The city attorney has aggressively prosecuted and sued those seeking to profit off wildfire victims, winning a $1.2-million settlement against another rental company in a price-gouging suit this week.

Feldstein Soto said both of her challengers are financially beholden to special interests, pointing to McKinney’s Airbnb windfall money Roy has taken from a political action committee bankrolled by an organization whose attorneys often sue the city.

“They’re not investing millions of dollars for fun and for free because they think these candidates are going to be great city attorneys … they are expecting a return on investment,” Feldstein Soto said.

McKinney said Airbnb simply believes in his campaign to clean up the city, which would improve tourism and the company’s profits in the city.

Roy said she has received broad support from across the legal profession and is committed to reducing lawsuit payouts that have “spiraled out of control.”

Dan Schnur, a USC professor and former advisor to Republican politicians in California, said Feldstein Soto’s biggest obstacle might not be her opponents, but voters themselves fed up with elected officials citywide.

“The challenges she faces are very similar to what Bass is going on in the mayor’s race,” he said. “This is a very impatient and angry electorate that wants change now.”

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High school softball: City Section playoff scores and updated schedule

HIGH SCHOOL SOFTBALL

CITY SECTION PLAYOFFS

FRIDAY’S RESULTS

Quarterfinals

OPEN DIVISION

#1 Granada Hills 3, #8 Granada Hills Kennedy 2

DIVISION I

#1 Venice 2, #9 San Fernando 0

#4 Chatsworth 1, #5 Chavez 0

#6 Eagle Rock 5, #3 Port of LA 2

#10 Verdugo Hills 1, #2 Marquez 0

DIVISION II

#1 LA Marshall 10, #9 Northridge Academy 4

#5 Sylmar 12, #20 Cleveland 1

#6 Arleta 11, #19 North Hollywood 3

#18 Taft 14, #10 Sun Valley Poly 5

DIVISION III

#9 Palisades 18, #16 Van Nuys 6

#5 South East 22, #4 Maywood Academy 4

#10 Westchester 10, #14 VAAS 0

#15 Reseda 15, #7 LACES 8

DIVISION IV

#16 Vaughn 17, #9 Smidt Tech 5

#4 Huntington Park 16, #12 Downtown Magnets 2

#14 Franklin 7, #11 Bernstein 2

#18 Diego Rivera 11, #7 CALS Early College 1

WEDNESDAY’S SCHEDULE

(Games at 3 p.m. unless noted)

Semifinals

OPEN DIVISION

#4 San Pedro at #1 Granada Hills

#3 Birmingham at #2 Carson

DIVISION I

#4 Chatsworth at #1 Venice

#10 Verdugo Hills at #6 Eagle Rock

DIVISION II

#5 Sylmar at #1 LA Marshall

#18 Taft at #6 Arleta

DIVISION III

#9 Palisades at #5 South East

#15 Reseda at #11 Westchester

DIVISION IV

#16 Vaughn at #4 Huntington Park

#18 Diego Rivera at #14 Franklin

Note: Finals in all divisions May 29-30 at TBD.

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