unforgettable

Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city, offers plenty of surprises, as I found out during a trip to the city in May

Wandering through the streets of a lesser-known European city that days earlier I knew very little about, a piece of street art featuring three grandmas wearing reflective sunglasses caught my eye.

‘Silence, please!’ was the clear instruction accompanying the mural as, full of curiosity and intrigue, I tentatively stepped inside the entrance of a colourfully-painted courtyard of apartments to take a peek.

I saw a couple of tourists grabbing phones from their coat pockets, working their way around the vibrant little snicket and snapping photos. A small but exciting place to stumble upon, it felt like something of a hidden secret.

And one I came across in Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city. It is a place that has long lived in the shadow of its postcard-pretty capital Vilnius, located an 80-minute drive away, but one full of little surprises.

READ MORE: People spending more time on phones on holiday than when they’re at workREAD MORE: Ten airlines cancelling and grounding flights this summer because of the fuel crisis

Between the wars, while Vilnius was under Polish control, Kaunas was the country’s temporary capital. In that time, it found itself producing one of Europe’s richest collections of architecture, which was recognised by UNESCO in 2023.

As I wandered through the confines of the Yard Gallery, I soon realised Kaunas was worthy of far more than just a quick stop-off. It has a creative soul I had not encountered in many other places during my travels.

The free-to-enter open-air street display was started by artist Vytenis Jakas who, having noticed some had become alienated, wanted a way to bring neighbours together and commemorate the lives of former Jewish residents.

Walls bloom with street art, with the powerful words of John Lennon’s Imagine immortalised on one, and a giant elephant and seagull stopping you in your tracks on another. There are more understated features, like mirror mosaics, stained-glass windows, and photograph memorials to past residents. It felt distinctly lived in, with cars parked outside, refuse bins and clothes lines draped around the murals.

My stop in Kaunas being fleeting, it was time to join Lithuania Travel and visit one of the country’s oldest and largest art museums, M.K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art, devoted to the local genius.

I explored the cosmic and dreamscape-like fantasy world of the artist and composer’s sounds and images, which told the story of his more than 300 paintings and 400 musical compositions.

The Trail of Angels virtual reality experience was an unexpected pleasure. Via a headset, I found myself immersed in the paintings, swirling around on a fully-rotating chair, floating through symbolic forests. What felt gimmicky on paper beforehand proved to be unexpectedly moving and peaceful.

It is not just art, but food, which has a firm place in the city’s creative ambitions.

I took a stroll along the length of Liberty Avenue, Kaunas’ most prominent and longest pedestrian street, flanked with trees, shops and cafes, and the awe-inspiring neo-Byzantine Catholic Church of St Michael the Archangel.

In the church’s shadow is Sija, a barely five-month-old restaurant which is set to have its food featured in the Michelin Guide – despite its infancy and only having four members of staff.

Inside, I met owner and chef Rakas Vasiliauskas and partner Greta Rutkauskaite, whose vision is to celebrate exclusively Lithuanian cuisine.

So much so, even lemon, pepper and oil are omitted. I tried a trout, presented with cucumbers, kefir and purple potato. A particularly tasty dish that showcased the best of local ingredients without the typical theatrical fuss.

Elsewhere, DIA restaurant left a lasting impression with its luxurious decor, mirrored ceilings and a full-blown tree acting as a centrepiece to one table. But its food was even more memorable.

Lamb, accompanied by pea-mint puree, cuttlefish tuile, chicken jus, pea pods, baby carrots and baby potatoes, came together to create an exquisite dining experience I will not forget in a hurry.

There is a feel of history and reinvention in Kaunas, with every restored facade or repurposed courtyard offering a frequent reminder of where it has been and where it is going. It is perhaps the mural of the sunglasses-wearing grans which captures the spirit of the city most, acting as a symbol for a place which has endured, adapted and emerged with its sense of humour and style still intact.

Book it

UK flights from London Luton Airport to Kaunas with Wizz Air start at £19.99 per person.

Mountains and fjords in Norway

I travelled across Norway by rail on the spectacular Bergensbanen, running between Oslo and Bergen, and the unforgettable Flåmsbana branch line. The Bergensbanen crosses the high mountain plateau of Hardangervidda, passing lakes, forests and snow‑covered peaks before descending toward the fjords of western Norway. At Myrdal, I transferred on to the steep Flåmsbana, which drops dramatically to Flåm on the Aurlandsfjord, with waterfalls and sheer-sided valleys at every turn.
Daniel

Charmed by the Vienna to Zagreb train

The journey from Vienna to Zagreb saw mountainous central Europe relax into Balkan charm. Stunning Alpine scenery melted into forest, settling down into rolling hills as we passed through Graz and reached the Slovene border, stopping for an hour’s changeover at the tiny Zidani Most station, where we enjoyed afternoon beers gazing over lush Slovenian countryside. The connection to Zagreb boasted dramatic lake scenery that gave way to farm land, golden in evening light, as we passed into Croatia, soon rattling into its underrated capital. We booked this through Omio, which came in relatively cheaply at £41.
Matt

Vintage locomotives in Tuscany

We took the Treno Natura from Siena last May for a whole day out in the beautiful Tuscan countryside. It’s a real steam engine with classic coaches. Most passengers were friendly locals: we only encountered two other foreign tourists, a Swiss couple. A band came aboard to entertain us, and an optional walk through vineyards was also available. Fabulous value at only €42 each.
Nigel Gould

Historic gem in Brandenburg, Germany

I took the RB26 train from Berlin-Lichtenberg to Müncheberg (45 mins) and changed for the Buckower Kleinbahn historic narrow-gauge train that runs from April to October. Opened in 1930 as an early electric railway, it closed as a regular service in the late 1990s. It is now volunteers who run the line that takes you through the rolling hills of the Märkische Schweiz in Brandenburg to the pretty spa town of Buckow. Here, I visited the residence of Bertolt Brecht and Helene Weigel on the peaceful reedy shores of Lake Schermützel, and then relaxed on the beach after a hike through the woodlands. I returned refreshed to the Berlin bustle.
Rachael

Alpine beauty on the Montreux to Interlaken line

From Montreux station I took the MOB railway to Interlaken. Weaving up through vineyards, Lac Léman shimmers below as the panorama broadens. Suddenly, you’re in pine forests and glimpsing jagged mountain crests. Bridges straddle rushing white water. The clanging and hooting warnings for road crossings. A long tunnel. Then burst into alpine pastures peppered with chalets. Le Pays d’Enhaut. Valleys filled with crisp air, summer cowbells, flowers and crickets – perfect for long walks. Or winter-snow-muffled land, all skis and fondues. Arriving in Château-d’Œx feels like discovering a new world.
Christian Vassie

Slow travel at its best: Belgrade to Bar

The train trip from Belgrade to Bar must be one of the slowest in Europe, taking 11 hours to cover 296 miles. At €23, it was probably the best-value travel money I’ve ever spent. In fact, the train trip was about the only time in my life when I longed for a journey to go slower rather than faster. It took me through some of the most dramatic scenery I’ve ever seen. Passing through deep gorges, canyons and mountain peaks, the train crossed more than 400 bridges and seemed to stop at every village. The Mala Rijeka viaduct was a highlight. The route took in spectacular dams, ancient monasteries and stone houses where old black-clad women waved at us from open kitchen windows. At one point, the passengers got out to feed a herd of goats and once we were overtaken by a mountain cowboy on a galloping horse. For the last part, you can see swimmers and sunbathers on Adriatic beaches.
Peter

Through Italy’s Apennines to Rome from the Adriatic

The cross-country east-west train trip from Pescara on the Adriatic to Rome is magnificent. It traverses the spine of Italy, single track all the way across the Apennines, stopping at towns such as Sulmona and Avezzano. The scenery changes as the route traverses mountain passes and ridiculous gradients before descending to plains over a period of 3 to 4 hours.
Stephen

The watchmakers’ railway in France and Switzerland

When time is not important, a little-known French railway line allows you to enter Switzerland through the valley of the watchmakers. The line from Besançon in France drifts through the beautiful Jura foothills, and on to Le Locle, a town at the centre of the Swiss watchmaking industry since the 1600s, terminating at La-Chaux-de-Fonds. No one got on or off at L’Hôpital-du-Grosbois, a byway station named after a leprosy hospital. At Morteau, the French border station, the douanes (customs officials) seemingly left a long time ago. A line that Dr Beeching would have closed still delivers you into Switzerland “on time”.
Martin

Best way to see the Pyrenees? On a little yellow train

Le Train Jaune runs between Villefranche-de-Conflent and Latour-de-Carol in France. Le Canari, as it’s known locally, climbs to 1,595 metres at Bolquère-Eyne during its spectacular 40-mile (63km) route. Fresh mountain air, breathtaking views and valley-crossing suspension bridges can all be experienced either from the train’s bright yellow open-air wagons or from within the cosy comfort of its carriages. It is the best way to discover the wonders of the Pyrenees. My wife and I went for our honeymoon and fell in love with the little yellow train.
Joe Brownen

Winning tip: urban drama on the Porto metro

A controversial choice, perhaps, but I love the surprise of urban rail. Porto’s metro D line heading south probably tops the list for the fact it emerges dramatically from the darkness of the underground to suddenly skim rooftops and then rattles across the fantastic Eiffel-inspired Dom Luís I bridge (it was completed in 1886 by Théophile Seyrig, a former partner of Gustave Eiffel). Choosing to walk back across the metal deck is a completely different experience.
Amy