Train

The return of France’s train of marvels: from the Côte d’Azur to the Southern French Alps | France holidays

Nine-thirty on a sunny Tuesday morning, and the platforms at Nice-Ville station are buzzing. Office workers nudge their way past backpackers, passengers clamber on to trains heading east to Monaco and Italy, or west to Antibes and Cannes. My husband and I, however, are heading away from the glittering coastline and boarding the Train des Merveilles (Train of Wonders) into the Alpes-Azur mountains.

Back on track last December after a programme of major works closed the line for a year, it’s one of the most spectacular train routes in Europe, a two-hour journey that climbs 1,000 metres in 100km, linking Nice with the medieval town of Tende, surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Mercantour national park.

Illustration: Guardian Graphics

It’s barely 10 minutes before the suburbs of Nice begin to melt into low hills, scattered with auburn-roofed villas and copses of chestnut trees. Once the ascent begins, it’s easy to see why maintaining the line, begun in 1883, is a serious task. More than 100 bridges and viaducts – and almost as many tunnels and retaining walls – stitch the track together, along with ingenious helical loop tunnels, which gain altitude by following a series of bends inside the mountain itself.

It’s a breathtaking ride, the hills gaining height and heft, until a great mountainscape begins to unfold before us; jagged peaks that make the valley road below seem little more than a thin sliver of ribbon.

Gare de Nice-Ville. Photograph: Cosmo Condina/Alamy

Many passengers ride straight up to Tende and set off to hike the mountain trails that lead off from the town. But we want to see a little more, and disembark first at Sospel, a medieval town where the 13th-century Pont-Vieux straddles the Bévéra River. It’s market day and, even in such a small town, there are flower and vegetable stalls, great wheels of cheese and delicious looking breads. We stroll the quiet streets, past crumbling baroque churches and gothic-style houses. It’s amazing to think we are barely an hour from Nice – it feels like we’ve been transported to an entirely different region of France.

The higher we go, the more the feeling of stepping back in time grows. At La Brigue, the gateway to the Mercantour national park, the tangle of medieval streets feel barely raised from their winter sleep; the town only really comes alive in summer, when the hikers arrive. La Brigue’s claim to fame is the Chapel of our Lady of Fountains, a couple of miles outside the town. Named for the seven springs that trickle through the rocks nearby, parts of the church date back to the 13th century, when, legend has it, villagers built it as a sign of gratitude to the Virgin Mary after prayers for a new water source for La Brigue were answered. While the facade is unassuming, the interior is truly extraordinary; its walls and ceiling are covered in 15th-century frescoes by Giovanni Canavesio that are so vivid the church is sometimes called the Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps.

The Train des Merveilles passes over the Roya River. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

By the time we arrive in Tende, where the houses cling to the mountainside, we are 800 metres above sea level and there is nothing but wooded slopes leading to high peaks and a crisp, clear silence. We follow the modern main street through the clustered, medieval houses of the old town up to the ruins of Chateau Lascaris, where the views stretch to the distant peaks of the Marguareis massif, the last mountains before Italy. It’s quite a pull, and afterwards we reward ourselves with mammoth croque monsieurs at Stella Alpina – part outdoor equipment shop, part rustic eaterie. Around us, hearty looking chaps in Lycra cycling tops are tucking into pints of lager and platters of local cheese and cured meats.

Much restored, we dip into the Musée des Merveilles, where we learn (through our fractured French) that the area is home to one of Europe’s largest Neolithic and Bronze Age rock-engraving sites. The town’s more recent (relatively speaking) history is tied to the Salt Road, a mule train route between the Piedmontese Alps and the Ligurian coast, used from the middle ages until the 18th century. Built as the last French stop-off along the trade route, it partly explains why a town of such a size was located in such an isolated, mountainous location.

Next morning, we’re back in Nice, from where we head along the coast to Antibes. It’s such a bonus, being able to explore so easily; 40 minutes later, we’re strolling past gleaming yachts in the marina and on to the 16th-century ramparts, to sit in the sunshine and watch the kitesurfers whisk across the bay. We head to a restaurant on the Place Nationale, where I eat crispy fritto misto (mixed fried seafood) and try to ignore my husband tucking into buttery, garlicky snails. The following day we take the 10-minute hop east for lunch in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, where the streets ooze belle epoque glamour, and the Plage de la Petite Afrique makes the perfect spot for a paddle and a pile of mussels, thick with cream and garlic.

The historic centre of Antibes. Photograph: Licht Wolke/Alamy

Food, inevitably, plays a big part in our time in Nice too. As touristy as the old town is, we find two absolute gems; a recommendation sends us to Acchiardo (on Facebook), where the fourth generation of the Acchiardo family serves up classic local dishes such as daube Nicoise – a rich, slow-cooked beef stew and duck breast with fig sauce. The second, Les Bar Des Oiseaux (on Instagram), we simply stumble across. It’s a classic bistro, with wood panelling painted with flawless reproductions of artworks by everyone from Joan Miró to Paul Klee and Roy Lichtenstein. My bourride (a traditional Provençal fish stew) was one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten.

And that’s the beauty of Nice. It’s both a destination itself and a gateway to very different worlds, all of them just a train ride away. The Train des Merveilles is unarguably the highlight; those extraordinary twists and turns, the grandiose scenery, wild and untouched, so different from the busy streets of Nice. But to pack all of it into one short trip is to make the very most of this diversely beautiful region; a trip des merveilles indeed.

The trip was provided by Mama Shelter hotels and the Nice Côte d’Azur tourist board. Doubles at Mama Shelter Nice from £114 B&B. The Train des Merveilles runs daily from June-September, with an onboard guide on the 9.30 departure. A regional rail day pass with Ter Zou!, including the Train des Merveilles, is €20



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The train is ‘my time machine’: a tour of Naples’ hidden ancient wonders | Naples holidays

One by one, the visitors descend through a tight tunnel cut through volcanic rock into the damp foundations of the Teatro Romano buried beneath Herculaneum, with the weight of 2,000 years of city above them. “This is a time machine,” the guide says, “and we are going back.” It is pitch black as film-maker Gianfranco Rosi’s camera finds torchlight catching the tourists’ transparent waterproof capes, making them appear like ghosts.

Released on the streaming platform Mubi this March, Rosi’s documentary Pompei: Below the Clouds threads a needle from classical antiquity to the present day. Presented in ashen black and white, without narration or interviews, it places the viewer inside the region surrounding Naples and leaves us there, each scene presenting a place and a moment in the area’s long history.

Illustration: Guardian Graphics

Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and most visitors see only a fraction of it before boarding the Circumvesuviana at Porta Nolana and riding the narrow-gauge railway east to Pompei or Herculaneum. In Below the Clouds, Rosi does not alight there. He stays on the train, camera in hand, and traverses this seismic landscape – from the Sorrentine peninsula, crowned by Vesuvius in the east, to the lesser-known craters of the Phlegraean Fields in the west. The train, Rosi says, is “my time machine”. His lens draws us into the Naples most visitors never see.

As a film-maker myself, who has lived and worked in Naples for the past 15 years, I was inspired by Below the Clouds to make my own pilgrimage, and boarded the overcrowded, noisy trains I usually avoid.

Villa Oplontis ‘feels like a secret discovery’. Photograph: Alfio Giannotti/Alamy

Before the Circumvesuviana reaches the archaeological site of Pompei, it skirts the Bay of Naples, passing through a number of overlooked towns characterised by a stratification of history visible in the architecture. Drawing into the station of Torre Annunziata, Rosi holds the camera on the visible layers of the town’s history: diamond-patterned Roman brickwork cut from nearby volcanic quarries, Doric columns from an excavated Roman villa, and the still-lived-in mid-century housing blocks rising above them. That Roman villa is worth stopping for. Believed to have been built for Poppaea Sabina, the second wife of Emperor Nero, Villa Oplontis feels like a secret discovery. Its frescoes are almost untouched, its colonnade pristine, and on this day, as always, there was scarcely another soul in sight.

Back on the Circumvesuviana, I head east to Somma Vesuviana. A team from the University of Tokyo has been excavating here for decades, slowly uncovering the Villa Augustea, the imperial estate where the Emperor Augustus is believed to have died in AD14. It was not the great eruption of AD79 that buried the villa, but a later one in AD472. The archaeological treasures still buried across the region are so numerous that tomb raiders have long burrowed into the soft volcanic stone looking for loot to sell on.

A graffitied train on the Naples to Sorrento line stops at Pompei Scavi–Villa dei Misteri station. Photograph: PBW Pix/Alamy

A second train line, the Cumana, runs in the opposite direction. It departs from Montesanto station in central Naples and heads west, reaching Pozzuoli in 25 minutes. At the end of the line lies a working port city of 75,000 people living in the basin of one of the world’s most geologically active calderas (volcanic craters). The lore surrounding Vesuvius has long overshadowed the dangers posed by the Phlegraean Fields, which rumble daily beneath the city’s foundations.

Stepping off the train at Pozzuoli, I was hit by the pungent sulphuric smoke drifting over the port. I had timed my arrival for a simple lunch at Abbascio ù Mare (a local favourite serving fish landed from the boats that morning) before visiting the Macellum of Pozzuoli, a 2nd-century Roman market near the harbour. Here, I found the clearest record of what is known as bradyseism, the movement of magmatic fluid and gas beneath the surface of the Earth that lifts and lowers the land, sinking entire towns and raising them again centuries later. Halfway up the ancient columns, I spotted bands of small holes in the stone. These were bored by molluscs when the columns once stood metres below the bay. Rosi’s camera follows the phenomenon underwater, descending into the submerged ruins of nearby Baia, where robed marble figures stand upright on the seabed as shoals of fish drift over mosaics and between their feet.

Gianfranco Rosi’s documentary shows the submerged ruins of Baia, where robed marble figures still stand on the seabed. Photograph: Antonio Busiello/Alamy

Between east and west, at the intersection of the Circumvesuviana and the Cumana, lies Naples – known to the Greco-Romans as Neapolis (the new town) because it was new compared with Pompei and Baia. In the centre of the city, at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, Rosi films Maria, the museum’s archaeologist, deep in the storage vaults. This is what he calls the casaforte (the safe of memory) – shelf upon shelf of fragmented marble torsos, legs and busts, the overflow of 2,000 years of excavation. These artefacts are down here, Maria says, until it is their turn to return to the museum floor above – a mirror, Rosi suggests to me when we speak, of society’s own hierarchies. Like Rosi, I am obsessed with these perfectly formed marble figures, the survivors of catastrophe, that live in the galleries of the museum upstairs among the frescoes and bronzes, pulled from the same volcanic earth that buried thousands of people under Vesuvius.

Rosi juxtaposes the marble torsos with shots of dismembered ex-voto, small metal plates shaped like individual body parts. These are offerings, often left in churches or street shrines along with prayers to saints in exchange for bodily cures.

At the small church of Santa Maria Francesca delle Cinque Piaghe in the Quartieri Spagnoli, one of my favourite corners of the city, hundreds of ex-votos in the shape of pregnant women have been left for the saint of fertility. These practices, still very much alive today, speak to the Neapolitan impulse to marry the sacred and the profane.

A scene from Gianfranco Rosi’s documentary Pompei: Below the Clouds. Photograph: Venice Film Festival

Rosi’s film ends in an abandoned cinema somewhere along the train line, its seats destroyed, its screen partly intact. Into this ruin, Rosi projects clips from Roberto Rossellini’s Journey to Italy, a film about the past, playing in a ruin, in a city built on ruins, above a city that was itself once buried. Like a Chronovisor (a mythical 1950s invention that supposedly broadcast actual historical events), the cinema is where the present tense becomes the past even as you watch it. Just like Naples. Just like Below the Clouds.

By the end of the film’s nearly two-hour runtime, the viewer has made the same journey as those visitors descending into the foundations of the Teatro Romano in Herculaneum to behold and reflect on a civilisation buried mid-sentence. Below the Clouds insists, however, that this confrontation does not require a museum ticket. “We are already living inside the catastrophe,” says Rosi.

Pompei: Below the Clouds is available on Mubi. Herculaneum, Pompei, Villa Oplontis, Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli are open to visitors. The Circumvesuviana runs from Napoli Porta Nolana east to Pompei and Herculaneum. The Cumana line runs from Montesanto station west to Pozzuoli. Sophia Seymour offers bespoke city walks and itineraries through Looking for Lila

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‘An unforgettable train ride through deep gorges, canyons and mountain peaks’: readers’ favourite European rail journeys | Rail travel

Mountains and fjords in Norway

I travelled across Norway by rail on the spectacular Bergensbanen, running between Oslo and Bergen, and the unforgettable Flåmsbana branch line. The Bergensbanen crosses the high mountain plateau of Hardangervidda, passing lakes, forests and snow‑covered peaks before descending toward the fjords of western Norway. At Myrdal, I transferred on to the steep Flåmsbana, which drops dramatically to Flåm on the Aurlandsfjord, with waterfalls and sheer-sided valleys at every turn.
Daniel

Charmed by the Vienna to Zagreb train

Zidani Most station in Slovenia. Photograph: PJR Transport/Alamy

The journey from Vienna to Zagreb saw mountainous central Europe relax into Balkan charm. Stunning Alpine scenery melted into forest, settling down into rolling hills as we passed through Graz and reached the Slovene border, stopping for an hour’s changeover at the tiny Zidani Most station, where we enjoyed afternoon beers gazing over lush Slovenian countryside. The connection to Zagreb boasted dramatic lake scenery that gave way to farm land, golden in evening light, as we passed into Croatia, soon rattling into its underrated capital. We booked this through Omio, which came in relatively cheaply at £41.
Matt

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage

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Vintage locomotives in Tuscany

The Treno Natura operates old steam engines from Siena. Photograph: Image Broker/Alamy

We took the Treno Natura from Siena last May for a whole day out in the beautiful Tuscan countryside. It’s a real steam engine with classic coaches. Most passengers were friendly locals: we only encountered two other foreign tourists, a Swiss couple. A band came aboard to entertain us, and an optional walk through vineyards was also available. Fabulous value at only €42 each.
Nigel Gould

Historic gem in Brandenburg, Germany

The Buckower Kleinbahn . Photograph: Imago/Alamy

I took the RB26 train from Berlin-Lichtenberg to Müncheberg (45 mins) and changed for the Buckower Kleinbahn historic narrow-gauge train that runs from April to October. Opened in 1930 as an early electric railway, it closed as a regular service in the late 1990s. It is now volunteers who run the line that takes you through the rolling hills of the Märkische Schweiz in Brandenburg to the pretty spa town of Buckow. Here, I visited the residence of Bertolt Brecht and Helene Weigel on the peaceful reedy shores of Lake Schermützel, and then relaxed on the beach after a hike through the woodlands. I returned refreshed to the Berlin bustle.
Rachael

Alpine beauty on the Montreux to Interlaken line

Switzerland’s MOB trains are among the most scenic in the world. Photograph: Imago/Alamy

From Montreux station I took the MOB railway to Interlaken. Weaving up through vineyards, Lac Léman shimmers below as the panorama broadens. Suddenly, you’re in pine forests and glimpsing jagged mountain crests. Bridges straddle rushing white water. The clanging and hooting warnings for road crossings. A long tunnel. Then burst into alpine pastures peppered with chalets. Le Pays d’Enhaut. Valleys filled with crisp air, summer cowbells, flowers and crickets – perfect for long walks. Or winter-snow-muffled land, all skis and fondues. Arriving in Château-d’Œx feels like discovering a new world.
Christian Vassie

Slow travel at its best: Belgrade to Bar

On board a train near the Mala Rijeka viaduct in Montenegro. Photograph: JB Dodane/Alamy

The train trip from Belgrade to Bar must be one of the slowest in Europe, taking 11 hours to cover 296 miles. At €23, it was probably the best-value travel money I’ve ever spent. In fact, the train trip was about the only time in my life when I longed for a journey to go slower rather than faster. It took me through some of the most dramatic scenery I’ve ever seen. Passing through deep gorges, canyons and mountain peaks, the train crossed more than 400 bridges and seemed to stop at every village. The Mala Rijeka viaduct was a highlight. The route took in spectacular dams, ancient monasteries and stone houses where old black-clad women waved at us from open kitchen windows. At one point, the passengers got out to feed a herd of goats and once we were overtaken by a mountain cowboy on a galloping horse. For the last part, you can see swimmers and sunbathers on Adriatic beaches.
Peter

Through Italy’s Apennines to Rome from the Adriatic

The train from Pescara to Rome passes through the Valle Peligna in the Apennines. Photograph: Marzolino/Getty Images

The cross-country east-west train trip from Pescara on the Adriatic to Rome is magnificent. It traverses the spine of Italy, single track all the way across the Apennines, stopping at towns such as Sulmona and Avezzano. The scenery changes as the route traverses mountain passes and ridiculous gradients before descending to plains over a period of 3 to 4 hours.
Stephen

The watchmakers’ railway in France and Switzerland

Hotel de Ville, Le Locle. Photograph: Image Professionals /Alamy

When time is not important, a little-known French railway line allows you to enter Switzerland through the valley of the watchmakers. The line from Besançon in France drifts through the beautiful Jura foothills, and on to Le Locle, a town at the centre of the Swiss watchmaking industry since the 1600s, terminating at La-Chaux-de-Fonds. No one got on or off at L’Hôpital-du-Grosbois, a byway station named after a leprosy hospital. At Morteau, the French border station, the douanes (customs officials) seemingly left a long time ago. A line that Dr Beeching would have closed still delivers you into Switzerland “on time”.
Martin

Best way to see the Pyrenees? On a little yellow train

Our reader’s view from the Little Yellow Train. Photograph: Joe Brownen

Le Train Jaune runs between Villefranche-de-Conflent and Latour-de-Carol in France. Le Canari, as it’s known locally, climbs to 1,595 metres at Bolquère-Eyne during its spectacular 40-mile (63km) route. Fresh mountain air, breathtaking views and valley-crossing suspension bridges can all be experienced either from the train’s bright yellow open-air wagons or from within the cosy comfort of its carriages. It is the best way to discover the wonders of the Pyrenees. My wife and I went for our honeymoon and fell in love with the little yellow train.
Joe Brownen

Winning tip: urban drama on the Porto metro

The train rattles across the Dom Luís I bridge over the River Douro. Photograph: Sean Harrison/Alamy

A controversial choice, perhaps, but I love the surprise of urban rail. Porto’s metro D line heading south probably tops the list for the fact it emerges dramatically from the darkness of the underground to suddenly skim rooftops and then rattles across the fantastic Eiffel-inspired Dom Luís I bridge (it was completed in 1886 by Théophile Seyrig, a former partner of Gustave Eiffel). Choosing to walk back across the metal deck is a completely different experience.
Amy

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UK train station to be completely transformed into ‘world-class hub’ as part of £5billion makeover

NEW plans have revealed the planned makeover for one UK station that sees 14.8million passengers every year.

The busy train station in the North of England is set to undergo a huge overhaul as part of a multi-billion pound project that will transform it into a ‘world-class hub’.

New plans for Liverpool Central Station have been revealed Credit: LCR
The station is set to be revamped at the cost of £5billion Credit: Liverpool City Council

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The council has revealed ambitious plans to upgrade Liverpool Central Station which first opened in 1874.

Its makeover will be part of a wider regeneration – London-based architecture firm Hawkins\Brown taking charge of the vision across the 86-acre site.

New renders reveal a brand-new look for Central Station with a completely different front, as well as a bright inside with lots of windows and a glass roof to let in natural light.

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Other images show what the central plaza could look like in the evening with open spaces, greenery and purple lighting.

The hope is that Liverpool Central will link with nearby Liverpool Lime Street with Merseyrail services connecting with National Rail services.

It would then be easy to reach Liverpool’s Knowledge Quarter, its waterfront and Queen Square, which is home to bars, cafes and restaurants.

This will be much like King’s Cross and London St Pancras, which are two separate stations, but used as one hub within the city.

This included the possibility of an underground tunnel between the stations too.

The project to overhaul not only the station, but central Liverpool area, is predicted to cost £5billion with the council hoping it will “create a world-class hub.”

The new central plaza outside Liverpool Central railway station could look very different Credit: Liverpool City Council

Liverpool City Region Mayor Steve Rotheram said: “Liverpool Central is one of the busiest and most important transport gateways in the country – and the area around it should match the ambition of the city it serves.

He continued: “This is a chance for us to think bigger about the future of one of the key front doors to Liverpool – creating a greener, safer and better-connected gateway that works for residents, businesses and the millions of people who pass through it every year.”

Last year, details emerged for more plans to better connect the city centre.

As part of the wider regeneration of Liverpool, new homes, shops and public spaces will be also created.



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‘A landscape raw and wild’: by train to the heart of the Yorkshire Three Peaks | Yorkshire holidays

Limestone stretches on all sides like an inland ocean – appropriately enough, since the shimmering white rock has its ancient origins in coral, shells and the skeletons of sea creatures. We advance carefully, stepping on clints (blocks of rock) and avoiding grykes (the deep fissures between them). It’s a warm, dry day and, even if it were not, limestone drains better than most types of terrain. For a long while, it’s broad, flat and hallucinatory and then, suddenly, the rocky sea collapses like a waterfall and we’re at the edge of a huge fault. The words Yorkshire Dales might evoke pretty villages and walled-in sheep fields, but this landscape is raw and wild, the kind of natural realm WH Auden celebrated in his poem In Praise of Limestone, and the kind that prompts geological speculation and inward ruminations. To cap it all, there are just three of us and nothing much and no one else all the way to the far horizons.

It’s my first decent yomp of the spring. I’ve come here with two walking pals on the egregiously under-promoted direct train that connects Rochdale and Manchester with the national park and Yorkshire’s Three Peaks. While the Leeds-Settle-Carlisle service – which recently celebrated its 150th birthday – is deservedly famous, the Yorkshire Dales Explorer, which started in June 2024, is much less celebrated. It’s also far less frequent. Trains travel between Leeds and Settle, continuing to Carlisle or Morecambe, 20 times a day Monday to Saturday, 11 times on Sundays. Trains between Manchester Victoria and Settle run on Saturdays only and just once in the morning each way and once in the late afternoon.

On the limestone escarpment on Moughton Scar above Austwick. Photograph: Chris Moss

We alight at Horton-in-Ribblesdale, the penultimate station before the terminus at Ribblehead, where rises the magnificent viaduct. Both stops are great for walkers, but ours takes us immediately into the heart of the Three Peaks. Pen-y-ghent is behind us as we leave the station, Ingleborough ahead and, to the north, on our far right, is Whernside. All have summits of about 700 metres and if you’re super fit, you can do them in one day – even between the two train services if you want a challenge. The men’s running record is 2hrs 46mins 3secs, set by Andy Peace, of Bingley Harriers, in 1996. Victoria Wilkinson, from the same club, set the women’s record, 3hrs 9mins 19secs, in 2017. It’s more than 23 miles (37km), and trained, fit walkers can manage it in 8-10 hours.

Ours is a less daunting mission: walking on a plateau between the peaks down to Settle, for a pub lunch. It’s still an adventure in the sense that there are very few marked footpaths on the OS app (OL2 is the Ordnance Survey printed map), but this is open access land and so you find your own route. We use cairns to navigate, climbing from the station platform at about 250 metres to the Moughton trig point at 427 metres, where we get a sweeping view of the Yorkshire Three Peaks and Bowland Fells to our south and west, and a chance for a cuppa. I hear my first skylarks of the season, but the air is also filled with the unmistakeable gurgling croak of ravens. Shake holes break up the limestone pavement and you have to be alert to these sudden depressions, but the only significant obstacle is getting down the scars, where the elevation suddenly drops tens of feet. At Long Scar we pause to plot a path and to take in the vertical edge, and in the middle distance, the Norber Erratics – 100-plus boulders transported long ago by glaciers and abandoned wantonly above the village of Austwick.

But the edge is enthralling. You can imagine this formation as an underwater cliff, aeons ago, though glaciation, weather and uplift have played their part in creating the static drama. It could be a rift in the Patagonian steppe or a Yorkshire-tinted section of Arizona’s Monument Valley. We sight an obelisk and head for that and soon find ourselves at the edge of another drop, Moughton Scar, where we descend again, passing a massive quarry; here the material hewed out of the strata is a tough gritstone called greywacke, the colour of cement.

The ‘magnificent’ Ribblehead viaduct. Photograph: Amazing Aerial/Alamy

It’s green and agricultural the rest of the way, and while we’re hitting the 10-mile stage of the walk, it’s fine to have wobbly legs now we’re off the tricky pavement. Wild garlic is bursting through, newborn lambs are dozing, and daffodils are sprouting around the tiny hamlet of Feizor, where there’s a teashop that used to be for walkers but now seems to pull in mainly car tourists.

We plough on, over two small rises, and finally on to the banks of the Ribble, which begins its long, meandering journey close to where we began. Settle is full of bikers, shoppers and sightseers, but there are also pints and late lunches in the pubs. We’re contented and have earned our pies. We can either get the late train back or hop on the number 11 minibus to Clitheroe. Those travelling from farther afield have the backup option of later trains to Leeds or Lancaster.

Ours was an ideal first long walk if you’re getting back into exercise after the wet winter. If you want to use the train to attempt the Three Peaks, I’d recommend splitting up the hikes over a weekend. Horton to Pen-y-ghent and then on to Ribblehead, 10 miles all told, is a nice day’s jaunt. You can do Whernside and Ingleborough on the following day, covering a similar distance, ending back at Horton. There’s a choice of campsites and a pub with rooms – the Station Inn – at Ribblehead.

The three hills have different qualities. Pen-y-ghent is a proper big lump, with a dramatically steep southern face that requires a short scramble. Ingleborough is a similar shape, but more haughty and spread out, almost mesa-like in its flat-topped appearance. Whernside is a long-elevated whale-back ridge, running north to south.

I can see the Three Peaks from my kitchen window, 22 miles away as the raven flies. The day before our hike, it had rained at home. But it had snowed on the top of the peaks, making them look out of place. They bear the full brunt of cold westerlies and are higher than anything nearby, and consequently create a micro-season of their own. Bear that in mind if you’re aiming to bag them on your next weekend outing.

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Two major English train stations will shut for 22 DAYS next month in £20million upgrade

TWO major English train stations are set to close as they undergo renovations.

The commuter hubs will be unavailable to the public for 22 days next month as part of the regeneration works.

Two major London stations will be closed for days Credit: Getty
Southeastern will offer alternative routes during the closures Credit: Alamy

Both Charing Cross Station and Waterloo East Station in London will not allow travel for a number of weeks over the summer.

The stations’ decades-old tracks and platforms will be given a revamp.

The closures will take place between Sunday, July 26, and Sunday, August 16, as well as on Sunday, May 31, and Sunday, June 7.

There will also be a full weekend closure from Saturday, August 22, to Sunday, August 23, – and again from Saturday, October 10, to Sunday, October 11.

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The closures will allow a £20million revamp project to go ahead Credit: Alamy
Repairs will be made to the Hungerford Bridge Credit: Alamy

On these dates, no trains will stop at Charing Cross or Waterloo East, although the Southeastern services will continue throughout the closures.

Trains that usually terminate at Charing Cross will be diverted to London Victoria, London Blackfriars, London Cannon Street or London Bridge. Tickets will be accepted on these alternative routes.

Meanwhile the London Underground service from Charing Cross will run as normal.

The closures will allow a £20million engineering project to be completed, with almost two kilometres of 36-year-old track set to be replaced.

Sections of Charing Cross’s platforms will undergo repairs along with updates to the drainage systems on the tracks.

Structural repairs to the Waterloo East to London Waterloo pedestrian link bridge and the Hungerford Bridge are also required.

Scott Brightwell, train services director at Southeastern Railway, said: “The £20 million investment we are delivering will see 1990s track and platforms upgraded to make journeys safer and more reliable, and Victorian era structures strengthened to remain fit for the future.  

“By consolidating the work into 22‑day closure, supported by preparation and follow‑up weekends, we can complete the work more quickly and with less disruption overall than the alternative options of 60 weekend closures or four to five 9-day closures.”

Urging passengers to “plan ahead and check before they travel”, he added: “We have planned the closure for the summer, when passenger numbers are around 20 per cent lower and schools are closed, to help manage the impact on customers.”

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Victorian train station reopens in UK for first time in 4 YEARS as it reveals new £140million revamp

A VICTORIAN train station has reopened to the public after four years of construction.

The project has faced major delays throughout, with the station initially scheduled to open in 2025.

Darlington Station has officially reopened after years of development work Credit: LNER
The station has seen two platforms refurbished, alongside a new concourse Credit: Network Rail

Darlington Station has reopened after receiving a £140million makeover, with first-time travelers enjoying the revamped facilities this weekend.

Darlington is considered to be the home of the modern railway, but the Victorian station needed a redesign.

Redevelopment for this historic Grade II listed station has been in the works for years, with the project starting in August 2022.

At the time, concerns were raised about whether the modern design would be in keeping with its Victorian history.

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The station developments cost £140million in total, taking nearly four years Credit: Network Rail
The redevelopment of the station has made it completely accessible and step-free Credit: Network Rail

After major building work, such as cutting a hole in the roof to install a new footbridge, the project was pushed back due to “additional design requirements”, surpassing the initial completion date in 2025.

Now, after these delays, visitors in this northern town can enjoy a modern new copper-coloured concourse, an elevated walkway connecting two new platforms, and a 650-space multi-storey carpark.

The design of the station also means that it is now fully accessible, with step-free access across the whole station.

Completion of the station was celebrated on May 15, with conductors whistling in the famous steam locomotive Tornado to mark the occasion.

An LNER Azuma train also took passengers on a special inaugural journey to York, with live music, entertainment and refreshments on board.

On May 17, with the station fully working, locals got to try out the new facilities, funded by £43million from Tees Valley Combined Authority and £96million from Network Rail and the Department for Transport.

Visitors praised the new station, reports The Northern Echo, with one hailing the new station as “like a palace to the railway“, and others saying it was “modern and unbelievable”.

One particularly happy visitor also told the Echo: “If you said something like this would be in Dubai, you would think oh my goodness.

“This is in Darlington – and there’s not a railway station on the East Coast Mainline as good as this.” 

Lola McEvoy, MP for Darlington, has praised the redevelopment of the station: “This absolutely cements it with the connectivity that we need, £160 million, and so many hours and hours of work.

“I just want to pay tribute to everybody who has put so much graft into this.

“I think it’s really important because for visitors and for investors, this is going to mark us out as a place to come and visit and enjoy and build.

“But for residents, what it’s going to do is unlock new adventures and make sure that we get the economic opportunities and the growth that we so desperately need and absolutely deserve.”

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New train route linking to TWO famous English cities runs for first time in 23 years

A NEW direct rail service connecting two major UK cities started running again for the first time in over two decades.

The first direct service left the station this morning at 7am.

a train with gwr on the side of it
The new service will now mean there is a direct line between two popular UK cities Credit: Alamy
Train leaving Bath Spa station.
Starting from today, the direct service will run from Mondays to Saturdays Credit: Getty Images – Getty

A new daily rail service between Oxford and Bristol Temple Meads began today, offering a direct service between the two cities for the first time in 23 years.

The new service started this morning after plans were finally given the go-ahead on Friday, May 13, by Network Rail and Great Western Railway.

Running from Monday to Saturday, the new service will travel via the following stations: Oxford, Swindon, Chippenham, Bath Spa and Bristol Temple Meads.

Both services began today with the first train leaving Oxford at 7am, arriving into Bristol Temple Meads at 8.20am.

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Going the other way, the first service departing from Bristol left at 7.14am and arrived into Oxford at 8.32am.

The fastest journey times from Oxford will be one hour and eight minutes and from Bristol one hour and 11 minutes.

Until today, there was no direct service between Oxford and Bristol, according to the Local Democracy Reporting Service.

The new rail line also means there is now a direct service for passengers travelling between Swindon and Oxford.

Previously travellers needed to change at either Didcot Parkway or Reading.

Great Western Railway’s managing director, Mark Hopwood, said the decision comes after years of campaigning from customers and partners.

“The economic and social benefits are clear, and we are confident that these new services demonstrate the value of rail in driving economic growth, environmental benefits, and creating education and employment opportunities which previously were not possible – as well as directly linking two of the key leisure markets in the UK,” he said.

Swindon South MP and Secretary of State for Transport, Heidi Alexander, said the “weekend trial of direct trains was hugely popular” and the new service will provide travellers with “a fast, convenient alternative to being stuck in a traffic jam on the A420”.

Network Rail Western route director, Marcus Jones, said bringing back the direct service “is a significant step in improving connectivity across the Western route” and the new links “will make it easier for people to travel between key economic centres, opening up new opportunities for work, education and leisure”.

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Jonathan Gjoshe: Footballer in mass train attack reveals he was stabbed seven times

“I got stabbed on the shoulder first”, he tells BBC Sport.

“I remember jumping over the table, jumping over the chairs. I was just running down the corridor, telling people, ‘there’s a guy with a knife, run, I’ve been stabbed, run, run, run’. I was screaming. I think I was the first person that got stabbed. I felt the pain. But adrenaline kicked in.

“That split second, me jumping over the table, saved me. All I thought about was just running for my life, getting off that train. As I got down to the first or second carriage, I pulled the alarm, and was just drenched with blood.”

“I was thinking I wasn’t going to see my family again, if I died, and that was the main worry for me”, he says. “Normally I would drive back down to London. That was the first time I got on a train to go back. What’s the chance of that happening? It’s crazy.”

The train made an emergency stop at Huntingdon where it was met by armed police. Having been given first aid by a fellow passenger, Gjoshe managed to get himself out to the station car park, from where paramedics rushed him to hospital.

It was only after surgery that he learned he had sustained seven wounds to his bicep, shoulder and arm.

The knife, he was told by the medics, “had gone through my muscles” coming fractionally close to hitting a nerve in his arm.

When asked if he feared his footballing career could be over, he says, “I was very worried. Just thinking, ‘what damage has happened to me?’ I didn’t have a clue until I had the surgery. They said, ‘It’s not much from the nerve. You’re very lucky’.”

In the days that followed, Gjoshe recalls: “They had to move me from ward to ward because of the media that were coming there looking for me.”

Having been released from hospital, Gjoshe faced several months of rehab, only returning to full training in March, something he describes as “a big relief. I started to get the movement of my arm, day by day it was getting better. It was an amazing feeling”.

Despite handling what he has been through with impressive stoicism, Gjoshe has not been on a train since the mass stabbing.

“I wouldn’t want to now. You just never know know. It’s best to be safe. I just can’t trust anything now”, he says.

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Reality star Maura Higgins asks former Strictly Come Dancing pro to help her train for US version of show

REALITY star Maura Higgins has asked former Strictly Come Dancing pro Karen Hauer to help her train for the US version of the show.

The Love Islander will start filming for Dancing with the Stars in America in July.

Maura Higgins has asked a former Strictly Come Dancing pro for help training Credit: Getty
She asked former Strictly pro Karen Hauer to help her train for the US version of the show Credit: BBC

But she has already begun training in London with Karen, 44, who was axed from the BBC1 show this year.

An insider said: “Maura is a complete novice when it comes to dancing so Karen has kindly offered to show her the ropes and teach her the basics.

“Maura is determined not to be the first voted off so is giving it her all.

“She has her sights set on becoming a huge star in America.”

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Maura is walking away from Love Island USA Credit: Getty
Karen was axed from Strictly this year Credit: BBC

Earlier this year Maura, 35, lost out in the final of the US version of The Traitors.

We revealed this week how Maura  is walking away from Love Island USA.

She revealed that she’s ready for a fresh start after three years.

Speaking to Vulture about whether fans would see her back on screens this summer, she said: “You won’t. I’ve done it for three years, and they’ll always be family to me, but I think it’s time to try something different.

“I’ve got amazing opportunities coming in the door.

“I think it’s time to say good-bye. But you know what? I won’t say forever.”

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World Cup train and shuttle bus ticket prices cut in New York, New Jersey | World Cup 2026 News

Round-trip train tickets brought down to $98 from $150, and bus fares to cost $20 instead of $80, state officials say.

Local governments in New Jersey and New York have reduced the cost of train and bus tickets for commuters travelling to the states’ joint World Cup venue during the tournament.

New Jersey Transit train tickets to the MetLife Stadium, renamed New Jersey New York Stadium for the FIFA World Cup, will now cost $98 as opposed to the earlier price set at $150 for a return fare, New Jersey Governor Mikie Sherrill announced on Wednesday.

“Ahead of NJ Transit World Cup train tickets going on sale tonight, NJTRANSIT is lowering ticket prices to $98 without New Jersey taxpayer money,” Sherrill wrote in a social media post.

The move followed intense backlash from local and international football fans planning to attend World Cup games at the stadium in East Rutherford, New Jersey, where the tournament’s final will be held on July 19.

The $98 fare, which will be charged during the World Cup matches hosted in New Jersey, is still significantly higher than the regular fare of $13 for the 29km (18-mile) round trip from New York City’s Penn Station.

When the $150 fare was announced, Sherrill defended it by suggesting the upcharge was necessary to ensure that her state’s commuters were not stuck with a “tab for years to come” for hosting the World Cup on its return to the United States for the first time since 1994.

NJ Transit officials said it would cost $62m to transport fans to and from the stadium over the duration of the tournament and outside grants had defrayed only $14m of those anticipated expenses.

“This isn’t price gouging,” NJ Transit President and CEO Kris Kolluri said last month. “We’re literally trying to recoup our costs.”

Meanwhile, the cost of taking a shuttle bus from New York City to the World Cup venue has also been reduced.

“The cost of shuttle bus tickets to and from matches will be reduced from the initial $80 round-trip price to $20,” New York Governor Kathy Hochul announced on the same Wednesday.

The move from the NYNJ Host Committee offers some respite for fans who would have already spent thousands of dollars on attending a World Cup game, largely due to the exorbitant match ticket prices, international and local airfares, and visa costs.

The host city officials said 20 percent of bus tickets for each match will be reserved exclusively for New York state residents. The remaining tickets will be available for all match-going fans.

The US is cohosting the tournament with Mexico and Canada. It begins on June 11.

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‘Harry Potter’ soars at Cosm with fantastical, theme-park-like effects

A pivotal moment early in “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” arrives when Harry’s suburban house is swarmed and flooded with letters of acceptance for the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. Harry’s aunt and uncle have been preventing such dispatches from reaching the young wizard-to-be, but the boarding school’s messenger owls are having none of it.

Letters flood in from the fireplace, windows and nearly seem to cause the house to burst. And while watching the film recently at Inglewood’s Cosm, home to an all-encompassing high-definition spherical screen, I half expected a letter to fall upon my lap. Cosm specializes in sports, but has released three collaborations with Warner Bros. for what it deems “experiential film.” A framed screen displaying the original 2001 work from director Chris Columbus is untouched, but surrounding it are newly added digital animations designed to envelop guests.

And in this early “Sorcerer’s Stone” scene, letters were a-flying any which way I looked. Up, down, left and right — mail missives were rocketing toward the center screen. As the world closed in on Daniel Radcliffe’s Potter and family, it did so, too, at Cosm. I’ve seen Cosm’s take on “The Matrix” and “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” so I knew a letter wouldn’t come zapping my way, but one could be forgiven for protecting their cocktail — themed, of course — from being knocked over.

The famed "sorting hat" scene at Cosm's interpretation of "Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone."

The famed “sorting hat” scene at Cosm’s interpretation of “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone.”

(Cosm)

Such is the power of Cosm’s curved screen, which brings a sense of dimension, and even at times movement, to the film. Think of Cosm, perhaps, as a mini version of Las Vegas’ Sphere, but smaller doesn’t mean any less sweeping. No, “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” in Cosm’s hands is often quite grand, as the first glimpse of Hogwarts Castle inspired cheers from the opening night audience, its cliffside towers, a romanticized spin on medieval architecture, towering above us in such a way that we will crane our necks. Only in Universal’s theme parks does the palace seem more real and welcoming.

“Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” arrives at Cosm during what is a big year for the franchise. It’s the 25th anniversary, of course, of the first film in the series, and later this year on Christmas Day a new television series based on author J.K. Rowling’s popular book series is set to premiere on HBO Max. This summer, Harry Potter: A Hogwarts Express Adventure will open at the Southern California Railway Museum for guests to experience the Wizarding World rite of passage aboard a real moving train in the Inland Empire.

All of this activity is happening as Rowling has become the center of heated debate for her controversial views on trans women. None of it, however, has seemed to curtail fan interest in the series. The 2023 video game “Hogwarts Legacy” became a massive hit despite calls for a boycott, and Universal Studios last year opened in Florida a brand new theme park land based upon the franchise at its Epic Universe park, with its centerpiece ride, Harry Potter and the Battle at the Ministry, often commanding some of the longest waits at the park.

At the film’s early May premiere at Cosm, Rowling was mentioned little, and wasn’t among the massive list of names being thanked by studio and Cosm execs. “Harry Potter” in 2026 is perhaps best viewed as a franchise that has outgrown its creator to take on a life of its own, and Cosm’s approach is that of a love letter to its many fans, recognizing that this is a magical, enchanting world that generations have long wished to find themselves immersed in.

A climatic scene in "Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone" is outfitted with additional effects at Cosm.

A climatic scene in “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” is outfitted with additional effects at Cosm.

(Cosm)

To that end, I’d rank “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” as the most successful of Cosm’s three cinematic interpretations. Certainly the subject matter plays a role, and while Cosm has been successful in matching the high-energy of “The Matrix” or the trippiness of “Willy Wonka,” here Cosm and its partners — experiential firm Little Cinema and effects house MakeMake — can simply luxuriate in atmosphere. The train to Hogwarts, for instance, is especially well done, seemingly stretched to infinity. The famed “sorting hat” scene, too, as Cosm’s wizards contrast the internal anxiety of being assigned a role with the external one of doing so in front of an audience, bringing to exaggerated life the cavernous Hogwarts assembly hall.

‘Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone’

Cosm works best when it’s able to use its venue to create the illusion of no longer being a spectator, when the space itself starts to feel like a living theater. Feel this, for instance, when Harry and pals traverse the moving staircase. The frame of the screen may move, creating a slight sense of disorientation as the stairs themselves shift. The portraits on the wall, whose characters occasionally come alive, start to envelop us. Cosm used some restraint here, keeping us guessing as to which framed pictures may seek to speak or nod our way.

If there’s any qualm in Cosm’s work it’s that at times there could be a tinge more self-control in order to let the film do its work. Stepping into the hidden magic nook of London’s Diagon Alley is a showcase moment in Columbus’ film, and at times it is in Cosm’s interpretation as well. Out on the street, the shops circle around us, further conveying the cramped nature of the neighborhood. It feels, more than ever, like a real-life space. Inside an intimate pub, however, filling out the scene with empty tables could distract from the hurried, nervous nature of the filmmaker’s original intent.

But we live in an immersive age. Art, increasingly, is maximized to encompass us, and Cosm understands this moment well. Once again, the venue has made the argument that cinema can feel like communal, live entertainment.

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5 Caribbean-worthy UK beaches you can reach by train during mini heatwave

As the promise of better weather gets us all anticipating some sunshine, it’s a great time to plan a trip to the beach. Here are five stunning sandy spots in the UK that’ll make you feel like you’re abroad

Nothing beats a day at the beach when the weather is warm, and with 27C temperatures potentially hitting the UK at the end of May, many of us will be planning a jaunt to the seaside.

The UK has many beautiful beaches, some of which wouldn’t look out of place in the Caribbean or the Med. And if you want to avoid the hassle of finding a parking space on a busy bank holiday, there are lots of beaches that are easy to reach by train, so you can enjoy a more relaxed day out.

Here are five beaches that could make for the perfect staycation trip once the weather gets warmer.

1. Nairn Beach

Set in the Scottish Highlands, Nairn Beach gets more sunshine than any other beach in the area thanks to its microclimate. While the west side of the beach has more traditional seaside vibes with fish and chip shops and ice cream stalls, head east and there are soft sand dunes, light sands, and turquoise seas.

To add to the Caribbean vibes, you can sometimes spot a colony of Bottlenose Dolphins just off the coast, so be sure to bring binoculars. Nairn Beach is about a 15-minute walk from Nairn’s train station, which connects with Inverness, so despite its unspoilt coast, it’s easy to reach.

2. Herne Bay

Herne Bay in Kent is a classic seaside town with Victorian landmarks, and along the coast you’ll find the ruins of Reculver Towers offering stunning views across the water. The beach has calm, shallow waters, ideal for taking a dip, and you may spot some mussel beds under the surface.

The beach is sand and shingle, giving it a rugged, unspoiled vibe, and at the heart of it all is the Victorian pier, where you’ll find amusements, fish and chip shops, and funfair rides. You can reach Herne Bay by train from London Victoria, with the journey taking just over 90-minutes and the station less than a mile from the beach.

3. Bridlington South beach

If you like your beaches a little more secluded, head to Bridlington South Beach in Yorkshire. Overlooking Bridlington Bay, it has warm, calm waters, dog-friendly sections, and areas for kids to paddle. Walk along the promenade or jump on the land train to enjoy the clifftop views while you chug along.

You can find both bustling and quiet stretches along this long, golden sand beach, and Bridlington’s train station is just a short walk from the northern tip. Services run regularly from York and enjoy views across the countryside as you head towards this coastal retreat.

4. Porthmeor Beach

Porthmeor Beach in St. Ives in Cornwall brings a little bit of the Caribbean to the West Country, offering light golden sands and Atlantic surf protected by rocky headlands. It’s incredibly popular in the summer months, thanks to its surf school and general family-friendly vibes. If the sun gets too hot, you can even head into the cool atmosphere of Tate St Ives, a gallery just steps from the beach. Visit later in the day and enjoy the west-facing unobstructed views of the Atlantic that make this a popular spot for watching the sunset.

You’ll find the beach just a 15-minute walk from St Ives train station, where the railway line runs along the coast, connecting with St Erth, where you’ll find direct trains to London.

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5. Troon Beach

Troon Beach in Scotland is set around a crescent-shaped bay, making the waters shallow, calm, and perfect for paddling. You can even see the Isle of Arran just across the water on clear days, and if you wait until sunset, you’ll see the sun disappear behind the island. While the beach has golden sands and soft green sand dunes, it also has a rugged feel, and incredible views of the Firth of Clyde.

At one end of the beach, you’ll find the famous Royal Troon Golf Club, and as you wander along the coast, you’ll spot a wide variety of wildlife, including seabirds, waders, and even seals swimming close to shore. The sands are less than 10-minutes from the train station, which has regular services to Glasgow Central, making it a well-connected seaside escape.

Have a story you want to share? Email us at webtravel@reachplc.com

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Gateway to the South Downs: take the train to a picture-perfect village with a cracking pub | Sussex holidays

Wisteria and clematis hang from weathered cottage walls. Tulips and pink apple blossom spill out of several gardens. Thatched animals decorate the rooftops. There’s a Norman church, a medieval castle and an 80-hectare (200-acre) nature reserve. Amberley is the kind of place people assume you can only reach by car, but the village has its own railway station with regular direct trains, along the scenic Arun Valley line, from Bognor, Horsham and London Victoria.

This spring, the Black Horse pub reopened in Amberley. The new owners are the gourmet Gladwin brothers, Oliver and Richard, returning to their Sussex roots near Nutbourne Vineyards. Having founded five Local & Wild restaurants in London, the Black Horse is their first country pub and first place with rooms.

I’ve walked through Amberley numerous times, but never stopped to explore. It’s the midpoint of the South Downs Way, a 100-mile route from Winchester to Eastbourne, with views for much of its length in both directions: north across the Weald and south towards the sea.

Black Horse pub in Amberley. Photograph: Dave Watts

Trains leave London every half an hour and take about 1hr 20mins to get to Amberley. The scenery outside gets steadily lovelier, passing blackthorn-bordered fields and bluebell woods. Beyond Pulborough, the railway enters the South Downs national park. There are herds of deer, chalk-hill views and the winding River Arun.

My first stop is Amberley Museum (two for the price of one with a voucher if you travel by train). Sprawling across more than 14 hectares (36 acres) of former chalk pits, it has impressive disused lime kilns and demonstrations of everything from broom-making to printing.

It’s right opposite the railway station and I’m planning a 45-minute whiz round before strolling into the village. Three hours later, I’m still there, riding the narrow-gauge railway and chatting to volunteers with encyclopedic enthusiasms for various traditional crafts. Visitors can hear the rattle of old machines and smell the printers’ ink, pine shavings, brick dust and engine oil. There’s a whole building about communications through time, from horse-drawn post carts to fibre-optic cables. The Tools & Trades History Society has intricate displays involving bee-smokers, hoop drivers, moulding planes, straw splitters and spindle grinders.

Above the museum’s main site, a nature trail leads up, through banks of bluebells and primroses, to a hilltop bench. Across the chalk cliffs of the old quarry and tall sycamores with their nesting rooks are views of the fortified walls of Amberley Castle, a bishops’ residence dating mainly from the 14th century.

I pass the castle on my 20-minute amble into the village and stop off at neighbouring St Michael’s church to admire the zigzagged Norman arch, oak leaf-carved doorway and graveyard cowslips. I check into the Black Horse, then head out again to explore Amberley Wildbrooks nature reserve, an area of boggy woods and tussock-sedged wetland, which starts two minutes’ walk away from the pub.

A pair of birders with a proper scope show me their photo of the resident white-tailed eagle, then I stroll through golden evening shadows serenaded by linnets and skylarks. No sign of the eagle, but I’m happy to hear warblers in the reedbeds and a woodpecker drumming for bugs. (Next day, I learn one of the area’s best eagle-spotting sites is The Sportsman, Amberley’s community pub, with binoculars on its terrace). I walk for miles along the single boggy track, following the Wey-South Path, a 34-mile (55km) route to Guildford mostly along canal towpaths, before finally heading back.

With bedrooms offering real milk and coffee, Amberley pottery and homemade biscuits, the Black Horse is hospitable. There are wooden beams, hilly views and fresh flowers. Plenty of pubs claim to be haunted by a “grey lady”; the Black Horse reports sightings of a spectral “woman in lavender … fleeting as the mist that settles over the Downs”.

Arundel Castle and the River Arun. Photograph: Adam Burton/Alamy

The renovated pub’s wood-panelled restaurant has an emphasis on local, foraged and sustainable food. Wild garlic season is ending and local asparagus has arrived. Grilled green spears in lemon with purple onion flowers look beautiful and taste better. Salad is dressed with gingery magnolia. There’s squid from Worthing, free-range lamb from the third Gladwin brother and farmer, Gregory, and wines from the family vineyards five miles north.

Many of the diners live locally (some on their second or third visit), while the early breakfasters next morning are mostly hiking the South Downs Way. The chalky hills look tempting in the spring sunshine, but I have other plans. In Arundel, four minutes’ journey south by rail, the nearly 1,000-year-old fortress (£17, gardens only) is hosting its huge annual tulip festival when I visit, having planted more than 1.4m bulbs over the past decade and won Historic Houses’ garden of the year in 2025, among other awards.

From pretty Arundel station, a bee-friendly path leads cyclists and walkers under the railway and beside a field to a safer stretch of pavement. Local community group Greening Arundel has won awards for this path, which is lined with celandines, murals and bug hotels.

Arundel Castle’s gardens. Photograph: Jesus Maria Erdozain Gomez/Alamy

There’s a queue to get into the castle gardens, but it’s easy to see why people come here. With fountains, thatched gazebos and historic walls as a backdrop, there are sweeping beds of multicoloured blooms, banks of scarlet by the moat, lush tubs of peony-style doubles, elegant lily-flowered cultivars and striped Rembrandts among a soft haze of forget-me-nots and the last of the narcissi.

Included in garden entry is the monument-filled 14th-century Fitzalan chapel, where pairs of marble knights and ladies lie side by side. On one of my teenage South Downs’ hikes, I spent hours with a friend searching every church in town for the stone effigies featured in Philip Larkin’s 1956 poem An Arundel Tomb, only to find them later in Chichester Cathedral.

After walking around the gardens, I climb the narrow-stepped Norman keep for views that stretch to the sea. There’s plenty to look at inside the castle, too: paintings by Van Dyck and Canaletto, rooms full of crossbows and rapiers, lion pelts in the Great Hall, antlers in the corridors.

From Arundel station, I can see the hilltop church and castle, framed by woods and marshes. The scene is up there with England’s other great views from railway stations, such as Durham Cathedral or St Michael’s Mount. Rich in history and wildlife, the trip feels longer and more rewarding than a simple overnight break. Outside the train windows, herons guard the waterways and swans are nesting in the reeds.

Accommodation was provided by the Black Horse pub, doubles from £110 room-only. Train travel was provided by Southern

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UK is home to world’s longest pleasure pier with its own train in tiny seaside town

It has been a beloved seaside landmark for over 200 years, where families can explore its rich history and enjoy a ride on its historic train for just a few pounds

For just a few pounds per person, families can explore the world’s longest pleasure pier right here in the UK – complete with its own railway whisking you off to a day on the waterfront.

Southend Pier isn’t your average seaside attraction but a major landmark sitting proudly in the heart of Southend-on-Sea, Essex, holding the title of the world’s longest pleasure pier. It extends an impressive 2.14km, or 1.33 miles, into the water.

Jutting out into the Thames Estuary, the pier was originally built in 1829, before welcoming the public in 1889.

Through the decades it has evolved and been reimagined into the pier that visitors and residents recognise today, having survived several catastrophic blazes.

Throughout the 1970s, the cherished pier fell into disrepair, prompting the council to announce plans to shut it down in 1980. But it wasn’t long before residents rallied together with passionate protests to save their treasured landmark, and by 1983, restoration work was approved.

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A revitalised pier, featuring a modernised railway system, welcomed visitors once more in 1986, though troubles for the structure weren’t quite over.

Fires in both 1995 and 2005 wreaked havoc on the pier’s timber planking and decking, necessitating multiple rounds of reconstruction.

There’s also a museum situated along the pier offering deeper insight into Southend Pier’s 200-year story, covering everything from the calamities to the entertainment and its wartime contribution.

Featuring original artefacts from the early days, old penny slot machines and a simulated train driver experience, there’s plenty to keep visitors entertained.

Families can now revel in this remarkable slice of British seaside heritage, enjoying rides, stalls, food and drink while taking a leisurely stroll out towards the sea.

For those who’d rather not walk, they can jump aboard the train, which runs along the pier every half hour.

One visitor took to TripAdvisor to share: “We were lazy and took the train instead of walking. Stepping on to the train is like stepping back in time. The train was from a different era, which was interesting.

“It didn’t go too fast, but we just didn’t feel like walking. It was cute to watch children who were walking with their parents try to race the train. The pier is very pleasant even on a cold day.”

Visiting

Perhaps the biggest draw of a trip to Southend Pier is just how affordable it is. Entry currently costs adults £3.10, while children and concessions pay £2.10.

For a little extra, families can combine pier entry with unlimited train journeys for as little as £19.50 with a full family ticket.

Those looking to swap the amusements for a peaceful day by the water might want to consider a fishing pass. Locals can turn up with all their gear and enjoy a full day’s fishing, provided they stick to the pier’s guidelines.

One visitor shared: “We decided to walk the pier, and the driver of the train waved each time he passed. Ice cream was lovely and views amazing. Worth the 1.3 miles there and back.”

Another happy visitor added: “Visited here recently with friends. A lovely long pier that’s perfect for a nice walk from the coast or a train ride if you prefer!

“It’s ticketed and does cost a few pounds to enter, but it was worth it personally, as I’ve never seen or experienced such a long pier before!”

The pier welcomes visitors daily between 10:15am and 5pm, with last entry permitted one hour before closing time.

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New train linking two of Europe’s must-see capitals returns after more than a decade

HOLIDAYMAKERS planning a trip to Europe this summer will now be able to tick two cities off their list in one train journey

Uncertainties surrounding the jet fuel crisis mean its the perfect time to take advantage of Europe’s train network.

Travellers can now go from Prague to the Danish capital, Copenhagen, by train Credit: Alamy
The launch of the new train line aims to encourage tourism despite the jet fuel shortages Credit: Getty

A new train line between Prague and Copenhagen has officially opened to passengers, creating a direct link between two of Europe’s most popular cities.

Launched on May 1, travellers can commute between these unique locations for as little as £53 per ticket.

Starting from Prague’s main train station, Hlavní Nádraží, the train link will also stop at German stations, including Dresden and Berlin.

Two services will now run on a daily basis, with one making a return journey from Hamburg to Prague, and the other travelling to Copenhagen.

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Starting in Prague, passengers can also get to multiple German cities, including Berlin Credit: Alamy
The overall journey will take over 13 hours between Prague and Copenhagen Credit: .ceskedrahy.cz

For those wanting to commit to the ultimate European journey, the service will begin in Prague at 6.30am, then arrive in Copenhagen for 7.38pm.

This 13-hour journey is considerably longer than flying between destinations, which takes just over an hour.

Between the Danish and Czech capitals, travellers will also be able to stop off in Dresden, Berlin and Hamburg.

For those exclusively wanting to travel from Prague to Germany, the total journey to Hamburg takes just over six hours.

Passengers will be travelling on Czech Railways (ČD), with their premium ComfortJet trains including onboard restaurants, WiFi, bike storage and a children’s cinema.

Onboard entertainment, air conditioning and quiet carriages will also be available.

Those wishing to travel will also be able to book on an extra summer service, departing from Prague at 4.30pm and travelling to Copenhagen.

The new Prague to Copenhagen route is one of ten new routes supported by the European Commission to improve cross-border rail travel.

Budding travellers can expect a Munich-Milan-Rome connected journey as soon as December 2026.

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Entire Victorian train station is moved 9 MILES and rebuilt brick by brick after shutting nearly a century ago

A HISTORIC railway station is set to open soon after being reconstructed brick by brick – nine miles from its original location.

The Victorian station was originally built in 1867, but fell into disuse over the last century.

Victorian railway station building nearing completion.
The station has been in a state of disrepair for a number of years Credit: The Wansford Road CIO / SWNS
Black and white photo of a Victorian railway station with a train and people on the platform.
The railway was once a vital link for passengers between Stamford and Wansford Credit: The Wansford Road CIO / SWNS

Wansford Road station, near Peterborough, had been facing demolition to make room for the proposed A47 dual carriageway.

However, in 2022 an agreement was reached between Nene Valley Railway (NVR) and National Highways for the building to be dismantled and re-built.

National Highways also granted nearly £200,000 in funding towards the project.

Having been dismantled in April 2024, the limestone station has almost completed its re-location to Peterborough, now under the new name of ‘Woodstone Wharf Station’.

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The historic building will serve as a gateway to both Railworld Wildlife Haven and the NVR, and features a booking office, waiting room and administration office.

Stan Bell, who led the project at The Wansford Road CIO, said: “It’s clear that the building will have a huge rejuvenating impact on this often-forgotten part of Peterborough.

“We’ve been incredibly lucky to have the support of National Highways.”

The original railway served passengers from Stamford to Wansford, although it closed by 1929.

The building was then converted into a private residence, before falling into disrepair.

The £100 million proposal to create a dual carriageway for the A47 was also scrapped in July last year, due to planning complications and rising costs.

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The ten best UK train stations

THE UK is home to over 2,500 train stations and there is nothing better than your journey leading you to one that is super pretty and has special experiences.

From free cocktails to unique-looking Greggs stores, there are many UK train stations that offer more than just commuting options. Here are our top 10 train stations across the UK:

Glasgow Central Train Station features shops all with the same colour signage Credit: Alamy
There’s even a pretty Greggs Credit: The Sun

Follow The Sun’s award-winning travel team on Instagram and Tiktok for top holiday tips and inspiration @thesuntravel.

Glasgow, Scotland

I’ve never seen a train station in the UK as pretty as Glasgow Central in Scotland and if it wasn’t for a day trip outside of the city, I would have completely missed this gem.

Sadly, part of the station recently burnt down but it is still pretty inside with several shops all with the same signage and colour palette, making them look more like museum exhibits than shops.

There’s even a Greggs that stands on its own, with a rounded brown front and cream signage, ditching the usually bright blue and yellow.

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And there’s the voco Grand Central Glasgow by IHG hotel which has a Champagne Bar overlooking the dreamy concourse.

Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter

Norwich, Norfolk

Norwich railway station looks more like a grand French palace than the modern commuter’s railway station.

It opened back in 1844, and despite its renovations since, this historic station still retains its charm today.

This grand, Grade II-listed building was designed in French Renaissance style, with striking red bricks, stone trimmings, and a large ornate dome and traditional clock face. Inside you’ll find a tall,  ballroom-like ceiling.

The grand entrance served as a carriage porch, designed to keep Victorian passengers dry as they hopped from their horse-drawn carriages.

Norwich railway station looks more like a grand French palace than the modern commuter’s railway station, according to Travel Reporter Jenna Stevens Credit: Alamy

This station serves the Great Eastern Main Line in the East of England, as well as secondary lines to seaside towns such as Sheringham and Great Yarmouth.

Once you step outside, the calm canal of this cathedral city is just a stone’s throw away – as are its popular waterside pubs.

– Jenna Stevens, Travel Reporter

Bristol Temple Meads

Bristol Temple Meads, which opened in 1840, was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

The Grade I listed building has a mock-Tudor design using local stone.

On the concourse you’ll see tall stone and brick arches and then in the main train station there’s a vaulted glass ceiling.

Bristol Temple Meads, which opened in 1840, was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel Credit: Alamy

The station has a number of shops too including an M&S, Starbucks and even a florist.

St Pancras, London

London St Pancras first opened in 1868 and later became an international rail hub in 2007, with trains to Europe.

It has a red exterior and then inside, glass features throughout the station and platforms.

Inside, you can also visit The Booking Office 1869 Bar and Restaurant, which features a long bar.

Visit at 5:05pm and you can get a free cocktail and history lesson…

And of course there’s Searcy’s, a cool champagne bar with yes, a champagne button, found in the train carriage-like booths and Europe’s longest champagne bar, stretching 98 metres.

Inside St Pancras there is a bar where if you visit at 5:05pm, you can get a free cocktail and history lesson Credit: Alamy

There’s often live music in the station as well, thanks to pianos scattered around for the public to play.

Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor

York

York Railway Station opened in 1877 and is a great example of Victorian architecture and rich history.

When inside, visitors will be able to see the ‘Great Curve’, which is 244-metre curved platform that was designed to curve around the city walls.

Make sure to look up too, as the ceiling is glass with huge iron arches and is one of the largest of its kind in the world.

Keep an eye out for other original details across the station as well, such as the Yorkshire rose and the restored two-faced clock on the main concourse.

Wemyss Bay, Scotland

You could happily take a trip to Wemyss Bay Railway Station in Inverclyde, even if you had no train to catch.

Wemyss Train Station in Scotland boasts an Edwardian curved-glass ceiling, which makes this railway station feel more like a beautiful botanical garden Credit: Alamy

This award-winning station was one of only ten to earn five stars in Simon Jenkins’ Britain’s 100 Best Railway Stations, and it’s often considered one of the UK’s most beautiful.

This Category A-listed station has a giant Edwardian curved-glass ceiling, which makes this railway station feel more like a beautiful botanical garden – especially since the station is also decorated with flowers and plants.

The magnificent iron and glass structure curves around the entire station, giving you plenty of space to wander around and admire.

For some more sightseeing, this station also contains the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry terminal, which connects onward to the Isle of Bute.

Jenna Stevens, Travel Reporter

Redesigned around 10 years ago, Birmingham New Street boasts a reflective stainless-steel facade Credit: Alamy
Inside it looks more like a spaceship Credit: Alamy

Birmingham New Street

Birmingham New Street is less historic than the other destinations on this list and more futuristic.

Redesigned around 10 years ago, the train station boasts a reflective stainless-steel facade and then as you head inside, you’ll see a giant, light-filled atrium that feels more like a spaceship.

Look out for ‘The Eye’, which is a 30 metre-wide screen in the station that is often used as a meeting point.

In the centre of the station look out for Ozzy the Bull, whose eyes light up and head even moves.

Edinburgh Waverley Station sits between the two sides of the city Credit: Alamy

Edinburgh Waverley, Scotland

In the Scottish capital, you’ll find the second largest train station in Britain – Edinburgh Waverley – and it sits lower than the two sides of Edinburgh towering above it, with the Old Town on one side and New Town on the other.

The pretty Category A listed station was named after Sir Walter Scott’s novels and has a 13 acre (yes, really) glass roof.

You aren’t short of shops either with an M&S, Cafe Nero and WHSmith, or if you fancy a tipple, there is even a Brew Dog pub and The Booking Office Wetherspoons.

Even the film industry thinks it is special, with scenes shot on Platform 2 for Marvel‘s Avengers: Infinity War.

– Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter

Cardiff Central train station is the largest and busiest rail hub in Wales Credit: Alamy

Cardiff Central, Wales

Cardiff Central train station is the largest and busiest rail hub in Wales.

Built back in 1850, it features eight platforms and an Art Deco style inside that emerged slightly later, between 1931 and 1934.

The Booking Hall is the main highlight, with a vaulted ceiling and Art Deco lamps.

Keep an eye out for original interwar design features as well, such as wall tiles with hands on pointing to different platforms.

London Bridge Station has a number of designer shops under the arches like Reiss and All Saints Credit: Alamy

London Bridge, London

As a regular commuter into London Bridge, I’ve come to appreciate just how great the station is compared to some of the others in the UK.

It has restaurants, coffee shops, and for retail therapy there’s the likes of Boots, M&S Food, and Pret.

There are also designer shops under the arches like Reiss and All Saints which might not be affordable, but it’s nice to window shop.

When you’re stuck in the station waiting for a train home, the Wi-Fi is easy to join and as you might not expect, actually reliable.

For quirky touches, it has a Meet by the Heart mural, a museum of artefacts, and even a pipe organ known as Henry – which you’re free to try out.

Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter



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Charming UK town just an hour outside of London with its own vineyard and £12.50 wine train

In the heart of the countryside and conveniently located just an hour from London, is a frozen-in-time town with a sprawling vineyard that offers an idyllic day out

Just outside London is a picturesque market town with independent businesses, rolling hill vistas and a vineyard with its very own wine train.

Nestled in the heart of the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), and just an hour’s train journey from London, is the charming market town of Dorking. While it’s a commuter town, often cited as a laid-back alternative to its neighbours, Guildford and Reigate, Dorking offers a scenic day out against its picturesque backdrop.

The historic town is said to have a ‘nostalgic’ feel, thanks to its timber-framed buildings, traditional coaching inns, and narrow alleys in a nod to its deep medieval roots. Travellers are said to have traditionally used Dorking as a stop between the South Coast and London, while its Victorian-era tales still run through the town.

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Its frozen-in-time setting is only enhanced by its renowned antique quarter on West Street, the town’s oldest street, with hidden gems, vintage items and ancient treasures. Dorking is also renowned for its independent scene of boutiques, coffee houses and eateries, alongside popular branded stores on the High Street.

When it comes to food, there are a few notable spots to point out, including the Michelin-starred restaurant Sorrel, offering modern fine dining from à la carte and tasting menus, to really savour the flavours. Elsewhere, there’s the steakhouse, Heaven’s Kitchen, a pizzeria, Monte Forte, Mediterranean dishes at Arto Restaurant, and, on the outskirts of the town, The Hillroom Restaurant, which offers a delightful afternoon.

Yet it’s well worth exploring beyond the main streets, as cosy squares are tucked among the picturesque town, including Old Kings Courtyard, Allen Court and St Martin’s Walk. That’s in addition to the Dorking Halls, where visitors can catch a theatre performance, watch live music, or sit down for a film.

A walk around the town is enough to warrant a visit, whether it’s to browse its independent retailers or explore its narrow lanes and stunning medieval architecture. But its selection of walking routes and famed Box Hill zig-zag cycle trail are another highlight in the area, offering the chance to really take in the picture-postcard scenes of the rolling Surrey countryside.

And a little further afield, an 8-minute car journey or 20-minute bus ride to be precise, is where you’ll find the vineyard with its very own wine train. The Denbies Wine Estate is England’s largest single-estate vineyard, spanning 265 acres, with its very own hotel and restaurant on-site.

Visitors can book a wine tasting or tour, enjoy one of their events, or book a stay at the vineyard hotel. But one of its most notable experiences is the outdoor vineyard train tour.

Guests can enjoy the train journey around the vineyard underneath the British sunshine while stopping for their next tipple of vino and soaking up the vistas of the Denbies Estate and the North Downs. With tickets starting from just £12.50 per person for the 50-minute tour, it might just be the best way to enjoy the spring weather.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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Major 186-year-old train station is getting big makeover this summer

A HISTORIC railway station will finally receive a long-awaited upgrade that’s been six years in the making.

Plans were first announced in 2020 but construction is only expected to go ahead in the coming months.

Illustration of a modern train station entrance with a large sloped roof and ticket machines.
The plans will see the construction of a new ticket hall Credit: Waltham Forest Gov.uk
Illustration of a train station platform featuring a modern timber and steel canopy with screens displaying train information and tickets, and blurred figures of people.
The upgrade works are expected to begin this summer and last into 2027 Credit: Waltham Forest Gov.uk

East London‘s Lea Bridge station is set to get a major upgrade to its ticket hall and entrance, following a campaign by locals.

The historic building was originally constructed in 1840 but closed in 1985 following the closure of the railway route.

It was re-built and re-opened in 2016, however despite being along a busy commuter route, the station features only a small un-gated side street entrance with no ticket office.

After calls from residents to upgrade the facilities, the station will now receive a modernised ticket hall.

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This includes a fully staffed ticket office and automatic entrance gates.

The plans also involve a retail unit and a new cycle hub, which will provide secure parking for up to 130 bikes.

A larger entrance on the main road will also be built, intended to make the station bigger, safer and more accessible for travellers.

Construction will begin this summer, and is expected to last into 2027.

This comes as the area undergoes a period of major regeneration, with 387 homes planned for the site around the station.

Lea Bridge operates between Stratford and Tottenham Hale on the Lea Valley Lines, and serves a daily average of 2,500 passengers.

It offers a 20-minute route into London Liverpool Street and a direct line to Stratford and Meridian Water.

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Future of iconic Hogwarts Express train is thrown into doubt after £5million setback

THE beloved “Hogwarts Express” steam train could be heading for the buffers thanks to a bitter health and safety row.

The iconic service, made famous by the Harry Potter film series, is under threat after rules forced a major overhaul.

The Jacobite Steam Train 45212 on the Glenfinnan Viaduct in Scotland, with green hills and trees under a blue sky.
The future of The Jacobite steam train is under threat Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The iconic train, known as The Jacobite steam train, runs through Scotland’s stunning countryside between Fort William and Mallaig, crossing the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct.

But now the popular locomotive – which is enjoyed by around 70,000 passengers a year – is at a crossroads due to a long-running dispute over safety regulations and the resulting financial strain.  

Old-style carriages used in the films have effectively been banned because their doors don’t have central locking.

Operator West Coast Railways says being forced to swap them out has caused huge problems.

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Newer coaches are unpopular with tourists and far more expensive to run. They even require a diesel engine at the back just to power air conditioning.

The train, which should have started running this month, has yet to begin its 2026 season.

Bosses are now begging regulators at the Office of Rail and Road to allow the return of the original carriages.

James Shuttleworth of West Coast told The Telegraph: “I don’t know what we would do. We were losing money working like that and you don’t go into business to lose money.”

Local businesses are already feeling the pain, with trade slumping as visitors stay away.

Fears are now growing that unless a solution is found soon, the world-famous Hogwarts Express could run out of track for good.

The Jacobite Steam Train with white smoke billowing, on the Glenfinnan Viaduct in Scotland.
The train typically hosts over 70,000 passengers per year Credit: Getty Images

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