Sweden

The Malm Whale at the Gothenburg Natural History Museum is the only stuffed blue whale in the world, and it’s also once of Europe’s strangest tourist attractions

Roughly 100 years ago, a young Swedish couple ruined it for the rest of us.

They were caught, trousers down, in the belly of the world’s only stuffed blue whale. Not quite the sex-positive Scandinavia it is today, the scandal led officials to snap its vast, gaping jaw shut, bringing an end to the days of ready access to the 16m long sea mammal.

“We must be content with the fact that it was two citizens of our own city that enjoyed this privilege,” the director of Gothenburg’s Natural History Museum said at the time, finding a silver lining in the moral outrage.

Although my efforts to track down the descendants of a couple that, I’d wager, are history’s only to have sex in a cetacean have so far failed, on a recent trip to Gothenburg, I fulfilled a long-held ambition to get inside a magnificent exhibit that remains the only real blue whale on display anywhere in the world.

OPINION

“We only open it on special occasions, such as election days, because the Swedish word for vote (val) is the same for the word for whale (val),” explained Stefen Örgårdm the museum’s current director, as we walked up wooden steps into the whale’s mouth.

On special occasions such as Christmas, when Santa hands out presents from inside the tum, the top jaw is cranked open in an unnatural but convenient way, allowing tall Nordic visitors to enter without bumping their heads, then move on into the belly.

It’s more of a local village hall than Jonah in there, the organs having long been stripped and placed in barrels of ethanol kept in the museum’s cellar. Two wooden benches running beneath simple drapery have taken their place. We looked out through the baleen-trimmed jaws of the leviathan as Stefen told me of the coming autumn’s new exhibition on unloved city animals and why we should reappraise them.

Today, blue whales are among the most beloved of all animals. Mysterious, elegant and massive.

“The biggest animal that has ever lived on our planet: a blue whale. … It’s far bigger than even the biggest dinosaur. Its tongue weighs as much as an elephant. Its heart is the size of a car. And some of its blood vessels are so wide that you could swim down them,” Sir David Attenborough said in Blue Planet. They are the ultimate Guinness World Record animal.

Their population has bounced back from 5,000 to 25,000, after decades of commercial hunting brought it down from a pre-whaling 300,000 peak.

Back in October 1865, when fisherman brothers Olof and Carl Larsson discovered the whale helplessly beached just off the Swedish west coast, the animals were reviled.

Charitably, it was fear of this vast, mysterious beast that caused the Larssons to do what they did next. I will not repeat the details of the two days of barbarity here. Suffice it to say the whale was killed. And then transported by three steamships and two coal barges into Gothenburg, where the naturalist Augustus Malm purchased the body.

“I will stuff everything,” he declared, leaping onto the collapsing carcase to deliver a speech to the assembled masses. And so he did.

Dozens of butchers, plied with as much beer as needed to withstand the violent smell, hacked it into parts, scooped the organs out and removed the skeleton.

There is something about whales that sends people a little mad. In Nobel Prize winner László Krasznahorkai’s book The Melancholy of Resistance, the arrival of a huge whale on a circus truck sparks a riot. Famously, Ishmael is driven loopy by Moby Dick. And so with the Gothenburg whale.

After days of feverish work, Malm was forced to rest as nausea hit. Realising the whale’s owner had gone, a horde of locals rushed in and snatched blubbery souvenirs. Thankfully, enough remained for the whale to be reconstructed.

Its skin and baleen was cured with arsenic, mercuric chloride and a top coat of colourless copal varnish before being placed onto a wooden frame, 30,000 zinc and copper pins holding it in place. The structure was built in four separable sections, making it easier to transport the whale on trucks to its later resting place in the museum’s great hall. A magnificent photo shows the whale’s head being rolled through a hole in the outer wall.

The whale, still pungent all these years later, remains the museum’s prized exhibit, only competing for the title with a magnificent stuffed elephant.

When in Gothenburg, the museum is the must-visit. But there is much else in Sweden’s second city that is also worth exploring.

Head to Haga, Gothenburg’s oldest neighbourhood, and wander down the cobbled streets. They’re packed with excellent homeware, furniture, book and clothing shops, as well as Café Husaren, a cosy wood-paneled spot known for its massive hagabullar cinnamon buns. These seem to be the Swedish version of the stupidly big croissants everyone photographed for their Instagram last year.

The neighbourhood is now pedestrianised, having been saved from mass demolition in the 1980s and built up from a rough, rundown area into the lovely spot it is today.

From there, hop on a tram or bus and head for the city’s Art Museum. A long day wouldn’t quite be enough to get around all six of its floors, so if in a rush, I recommend the Nordic Fin-de-Siècle section to take in the stunning nature paintings of late 19th-century Swedes, before giving the collection of Carl Larssons their dues.

If not defeated by the earlier hagabullar, consider filling up on Sweden’s (much superior) answer to McDonald’s, Max Burger, or picking up one of the country’s famously weird pizzas and heading home.

Like many second cities, Gothenburg is famous for its friendliness. But also for its terrible weather. There is a good chance you’ll be rained on.

With a sliced banana, pineapple, curry powder and peanut pizza under my arm, I retreated from the deluge to my Airbnb on the outskirts of town. Like Stockholm, you’re never more than ten minutes from the natural world in Gothenburg, or more than 20 from a lake or pretty serious forest. Robert’s place in Ugglum was but a short ride from the centre, but could’ve been deep in the woods of remote Sweden, such was the green surroundings and calm of the place.

This was no corporate holiday let landlord spinning multiple properties, but a family home costing around £200 a night where kids’ paintings decorated the walls and a Barbie Dream House stood proudly in the bedroom.

It is one of Airbnb’s Guest Favourite properties, a title reserved for the accommodation firm’s most rated properties. If you’re spending a little longer in the city, a whole host of Airbnb Experiences are available, such as exploring a local chocolate factory with a chocolatier, joining a seasoned sailor to tack down the coast, or trotting through the woodlands on horseback.

Getting to Gothenburg from the UK is quick and is easy. Direct flights from the UK to Gothenburg-Landvetter Airport are operated by British Airways from London Heathrow, Ryanair from London Stansted, Manchester, and seasonally from Edinburgh, and Norwegian from London Gatwick. Return flights are regularly available for around £30.

From the bus window, the ridge looks like a giant slumbering beast stretched deep green across the flat farmland. “It feels alive,” I say to the woman beside me. “Yes,” she answers. “It is where you would run for safety, don’t you think?”

I am in southern Sweden to explore Söderåsen national park, established in 2001 to protect more than 1,600 hectares (4,000 acres) of the larger Söderåsen ridgeline. Shaped over millennia by immense geological collisions, fractures, volcanic eruptions and ice ages, today it is one of northern Europe’s largest continuous protected broadleaf forests, and only 90 minutes by car from Copenhagen or, in my case, two hours by public transport.

The little village of Röstånga at the gateway to the park is where travellers stop for supplies from the supermarket before disappearing into the forest on foot, bike or horseback, and people gather for food, live music and art.

My room for the first night is in Villa Söderåsen, a grand timber-framed yellow and white guesthouse, which has stood at the park’s entrance since 1904. It was built for tourists arriving via the new railway in search of connection to nature. Sebastian and Åsa, the owners, want to continue that tradition. “We humans are as loud as elephants in the wood,” says Sebastian. “Sit quietly for half an hour and see what happens.”

That evening, I eat with strangers at long wooden tables outside the hip restaurant and live music venue Stationen. Music drifts out of open doors, adults chat around the fire, children run circles around us.

The next morning, Åsa recommends I take a dip in Odensjön (Odin’s Eye) Lake. “Some say it is bottomless,” she says. It’s almost perfectly round, edged by steep beech-covered slopes, and fed by underground springs. Fifteen minutes into the forest and I am there.

A woman making her way back to the village says: “There is a rock in the water, heated by the sun, sit there, let your body adjust.”

Grasshoppers trill, spider silk trails from branches, noble chafer beetles glimmer like the aurora borealis, a dragonfly rests electric-blue on my now empty walking boots. I swim, the circle of blue sky rippling, and emerge ready for anything.

A few years ago, scientists obtained a sediment core from the bottom of the lake, providing detailed information from the past 600 years of land-use history. This showed that in the 18th and 19th centuries the plateau was largely deforested. I would have been walking across a heath, repeatedly burned to improve grazing grounds. It is difficult to imagine as I move through endless layers of beech, interspersed at times with birch, oak and rowan, mossy trunks, roots like octopuses.

Once I start searching, the signs of human history are everywhere too, from hollow ways to clearance cairns and dry-stone walls.

Two hours of hiking later, I arrive at the second entrance to the park: Skäralid, a rift valley. The visitor centre Naturum, packed with information and playful exhibits, shares its premises with Café Italia. Both look out onto a picturesque dam. A ranger explains that much of the initial conservation efforts since designation as a national park involved the felling of non-native Norway spruce and the planting of broadleaved trees in its stead.

In search of solitude, I choose the wilder three-hour Hjortsprångsrundan or Deer Leap circular, a trail named after a prehistoric hunting method where people drove game over a narrow cliff shelf. I pick my way along it, across heather and bilberry, to perch on the hard gneiss bedrock that blushes a startling mineral pink. A buzzard swoops down from the branch of a gnarled oak.

The descent is like scrambling and slipping back through time into an entirely other world. Many of these slopes managed to escape the historical land clearances and thus are the closest to ancient woodland. But all around this area, ferns, lichen, fungi, seeds and spores are recolonising the land.

The scree slopes are dotted with springs pushed up from a subterranean lake and laced with streams that feed into the Skärån river. The scent in the bottom of the valley is heady, sweet and damp, bringing with it a keen awareness of how much is always happening just out of sight.

I rest on a wooden walkway, pop a wild raspberry in my mouth and watch a slowworm the length of my forearm slither past. Then, a sudden crashing through undergrowth. Wolf? Wild boar? Moose? A young stag steps from a pocket of alder trees, pawing the ground. We look at one another. The sun drops, and as it does its light rises up the walls of the ravine.

My room for the second night is in Söderåsens Skafferi, a vandrarhem, or wanderer’s home. The house glows like a lantern on the edge of the dark wood. The owner Elisabeth, who spent her childhood exploring Söderåsen on horseback, says the house was once the first nature school in Sweden.

On my final morning I climb to Kopparhatten, the park’s highest viewpoint at 212 metres, and hold up a booklet with an image of a painting from 1840 of this same vista, almost bare of trees. “We used to holiday in the south,” a couple tell me. “But we’re searching for cooler climates now.” I wonder what stories they will bring home.

Summer, all green infusion; autumn, rust and gold; winter, snow and stone; spring, wood anemones and paper-thin leaves. The national park feels like living proof that damaged landscapes can recover if nature, and humans, are given half a chance.

Accommodation was provided by Villa Söderåsen (doubles from 1,095 Swedish Kronor, about £85, B&B). Coco also stayed at Söderåsens Skafferi (doubles from around £78). Söderåsen national park has multiple wild campsites with wind shelters and barbecue areas. For information on public transport access, visit skanetrafiken.se

Al Jazeera’s Nils Adler @nilsadler1 reports on how far-right ‘Active Clubs’ use fitness and camaraderie to recruit young white men while masking extremist ideology. Experts warn the decentralized groups are preparing members for real-world violence.

WHEN it comes to planning your next holiday, why not look for somewhere different to everywhere else?

Europe is full of breathtaking islands, you just have to discover them…

And fortunately for you, we have done just that.

Here are some of the best ‘secret’ islands across Europe, including several with white sand beaches and crystal clear waters:

Bornholm, Denmark

Known as ‘Sunshine Island’ and the ‘Pearl of the Baltic’, Bornholm sits in the Baltic Sea off the coast of Denmark.

The island has dramatic cliffs as well as vibrant green forests and white sand beaches.

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For things to do on the island, you can head to Opalsoen, where there is a zipline over a lake.

And if you want to see more of the island’s dramatic landscape, try Pissebaekken which is one of Denmark‘s highest natural waterfalls.

One beach spot to visit is Balka Strand, which boasts fine white sand and if you happen to be there during the summer months there is even yoga on the beach each day at 8:30am.

It is about three hours by bus and boat from Copenhagen, which you can fly to from as little as £15 one-way.

Gotland, Sweden

Sweden‘s largest island, Gotland, boasts a UNESCO World Heritage town called Visby with cobblestone streets and pastel coloured buildings.

Venture across the island and you’ll also find the largest sand dunes in Sweden at Tofta Strand.

If you happen to be on the island during August, make sure to visit Medieval Week, which is Sweden’s largest historical festival with jousting and markets.

The island even has its very own Blue Lagoon you can go swimming in.

It takes about four hours to get to the island via the ferry from one of two mainland ports – Nynashamn which is south of Stockholm or Oskarshamn in Småland.

Nynashamn is around a 50minute drive from Stockholm, which costs from £16 to fly to, per way.

Eilean Shona, Scotland

This small tidal island in the Inner Hebrides in Scotland is completely car-free and only has around nine permanent residents.

While there isn’t much in the way of attractions on the island, you can immerse yourself in the nature as well as the calm and clear waters surrounding the island, all of which inspired J.M.Barrie’s Neverland in Peter Pan.

Travel reporter Cyann Fielding who recently visited said: “One of the activities to do on the island that is well worth experiencing, though, is taking a cold water plunge or swim – the scenery is stunning and the water is serenely calm.“

You can hop on the Caledonian Sleeper from London costing around £60 per way for a seat to Fort William, and then drive for an hour to the island.

To get to Eilean Shona itself, you’ll need to hop on a small boat operated by the island.

It is worth noting though, that you can only visit the island if you are staying in one of the shepherds huts or houses there.

Heligoland, Germany

Often considered the most fought over island in Germany, Heliogland has changed hands many times throughout its history including belonging to the Danes, the Brits and then the Germans.

In fact, the Brits tried to blow up the island during World War II resulting in loads of huge craters across the island that you can visit on scenic walks.

The island boasts huge sandstone cliffs and as a result, is brimming with wildlife including gannets.

To get to the island, you’ll need to hop on a four-hour ferry from Hamburg – which you can fly to from £16 per way.

From the Heligoland, you can also get on a ferry for five minutes to another German island called Dune, where you will find loads of seals.

You can even camp on this island, in case you want to extend your time exploring the two islands before returning to Hamburg.

Ile de Sein, France

Surrounded by azure blue waters, Ile de Sein in France sits off the tip of Brittany.

In the sea around the island, you’ll also often spot dolphins and seals.

The island has no trees, just wild moorland and white-washed houses and make sure to visit the Grand Phare, which is up 250 steps and is a 52-metre tower with views of the coastline.

Down by the port, venture around the village too, where you will find an intricate network of winding alleys, with some measuring just 85cm wide.

To get to the island, hop on a Brittany Ferry between Plymouth and Roscoff, with prices ranging depending on your vehicle.

Once in Roscoff take the two-hour drive to Audierne, where you can catch an hour-long ferry to the island, costing between €33 and €40 (£28.29 and £34.29) for a round trip.

Île d’Yeu, France

Dubbed the ‘Atlantic Pearl’, Ile d’Yeu off the coast of France is a small island where you’ll find sprawling golden sand beaches and clear waters.

The most popular way to get around the island is by hiring a bike and make sure to visit the 14th century Vieux-Chateau which sit on the edge of a cliff above the sea.

There’s also Saint Sauveur, which is a village on the island with traditional architecture including a Romanesque church surrounded by white houses.

The best way to get to the island is by flying to Nantes costing from £13 per way and taking an hour drive to Fromentine on the Vendée coast, where you can catch a 45-minute ferry across to the island.

Elba, Italy

Elba Island in Tuscany, Italy is known for boasting stunning beaches including the popular spot of Pomonte Beach, where you can swim out to a shipwreck and snorkel around it, discovering lots of brightly coloured fish.

Visit Portoferraio – the island’s main town – where you will find pastel houses as well as Villa dei Mulini, which is where Napoleon lived during his exile.

For keen hikers, take the 40minute hike to the fortress of Volterraio to capture the breathtaking sunset.

The best way to get to the island is by flying to Pisa, which costs from £17 per way and then driving for an hour to the port of Piombino in Tuscany, where you can then catch an hour-long ferry to the island.

Tabarca, Spain

Tabarca sits off the coast of Alicante in Spain and is home to around 50 people.

On the island, there are a number of cobbled streets to stroll down as well as pretty beaches, including Playa de Levante – known for being the main beach, with shallow waters ideal for families.

There are no cars on the island and it can easily be explored within a day, but don’t leave without trying some of the local restaurants where you can pick up traditional seafood such as lobster stew.

The easiest way to get to the island is by flying to Alicante from £13 per way, before hopping on a ferry from Alicante to the island, taking around an hour and costing €24 (£20.58) for a return trip.

Ilha da Armona, Portugal

Ofted nicknamed the ‘Portuguese Maldives’, Ilha da Armona sits on the Algarve.

Ilha da Armona forms part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park where you’ll find no cars, white sand beaches and calm, shallow waters.

Praia de Armona is the main Blue Flag beach on the island and is known for being a family-friendly spot.

After exploring the beach, make sure to head to one of the waterfront tavernas to try some of the local cuisine.

In the village itself, you can expect to see colorful houses and flower-filled courtyards too.

To get to the island, fly to Faro from £15 per way, before hopping on a 10-minute train to Olhao, where you can catch a ferry to the island for as little as €4.20 (£3.60) for a return trip.

Paxos, Greece

The Greek island of Paxos is often dubbed one of the most beautiful islands in the world.

Head to Gaios village where you can explore a Venetian-style waterfront was quaint shops and tavernas looking out across the water.

For a beach spot, visit Kanoni Beach which is a pebble beach but sheltered by the bay of Lakka and surrounded by fragrant olive groves,

You can get to the island by flying to Corfu from £15 per way, before hopping on a ferry from Corfu to the island, which takes between an hour and an hour and a half.

EUROPE is full of amazing destinations, but sometimes going to the top spots means battling hoards of crowds and forking out lots of cash.

It doesn’t have to be this way though.

Instead of heading to somewhere everyone else is going, there are some great alternatives where you will be free from throngs of selfie-stick welding tourists and overpriced restaurants.

There are several spots in Rough Guide’s ‘The Most Underated Places in Europe’ book, including the following European destinations:

Swap Bordeaux for La Rochelle

The harbour town of La Rochelle in France, is rarely busy, even in the summer season.

You’ll get the same cream-hued limestone architecture found in Bordeaux as well as a thriving food scene.

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In the old town you’ll find cobbled streets and historic houses and a port boasting three medieval towers.

Instead of the crowds experienced in Bordeaux, you’ll get a more “relaxed in character” vibe in La Rochelle, according to Rough Guides.

Food tends to be cheaper in La Rochelle too.

A direct flight to La Rochelle from the UK takes just over an hour, with flights costing from £16.99 per way.

Swap Prague for Ljubljana

Dubbed “one of Europe’s most relaxed metropolises” by Rough Guides, Ljubljana is a smaller city to Prague but has no crowds.

Instead of battling shoulder-to-shoulder with other tourists for a glimpse of Charles Bridge in Prague, you can head to Ljubljana’s Triple Bridge before heading to a cosy cafe.

You’ll get the same cobblestones, castle views and cheap beer in Slovenia‘s capital compared to Prague, but with the added benefit of some of Europe’s cleanest air.

It is also a great city for art fans, with a number of museums and street art. It takes about two hours to fly from the UK to Ljubljana, with flights costing from £32 a way.

Swap Munich for Stuttgart

Those heading to Munich often head to the beer halls.

But just two hours away via train, Stuttgart has lively wine taverns as well as Cannstatter Volksfest – a 17-day annual folk festival considered to be the world’s second largest beer festival after Munich’s Oktoberfest.

And if you feel like you are missing out on the BMW museum in Munich, you can head to not one, but two car museums in Stuttgart – the Mercedes-Benz and Porsche museums.

Make sure to also visit Wilhelma which is Europe’s largest zoological and botanical garden, with a number of vineyards nearby.

Similar to Munich, the city also has a vibrant central hub called Schlossplatz, where you will find the New Palace as well as loads of shops to explore.

It takes under two hours to fly from the UK to Stuttgart, with flights costing from £44 a way.

Swap Santorini for Aland Islands

Santorini is a dream destination for many of us, but with so many people heading to the destination each year, it feels a little more like another spot overwhelmed with tourists.

Instead, head to the sunniest spot in Northern Europe – the Aland Islands.

While technically part of Finland , the region is made up of 6,700 autonomous islands.

With white sand beaches just like you’d expect on Greek islands, the islands offer the ideal holiday for getting away from crowds but still getting beach days and scenic spots – but also with a cheaper price tag.

To make it even better, there are saunas and steam rooms across the islands to venture into.

And if you like to keep active, there are a ton of activities to explore including kayaking, hiking and climbing.

The capital of the islands is Mariehamn, which has wooden houses as well as the moated Kastelholm Castle.

To get to the islands, you’ll need to book a stopover flight to Mariehamn, which from the UK costs from £92 per way.

Swap the Algarve for Comporta

If you want the golden beaches of the Algarve but want to miss the bustling resorts, head to the ‘Hamptons of Portugal‘ – Comporta – which is a village on Alentejo’s Sado estuary.

Comporta is made up of seven small villages, mostly full of small fishermen’s cabanas.

Beaches are backed by pine forests and cosy tavernas where you can pick up a beer for as little as €1.50 (£1.29).

It is also a protected nature reserve with sand dunes and rice paddy fields home to flamingos and wild dolphins.

But unlike the Algarve, the pace of life is slower here and you won’t find bars full of rowdy people.

To get to Comporta, you’ll need to fly to Lisbon which costs from as little as £18 per way and then you’ll need to drive around an hour and 20 minutes to Comporta.

Swap Corfu for Ksamil

Corfu might immediately come to mind when you think of glistening turquoise waters and pristine sand beaches, but you’ll also get this in Ksamil.

Known as the Albanian Riviera, Ksamil has an abundance of pretty beaches that lack the crowds found in Corfu.

Just 1.2 miles from Corfu, you’ll get similar weather as well as a number of small islands that you can even swim to.

The destination also has history to discover including public baths that date back further than the ancient Greek period.

Ksamil also lacks the bustling clubs of Corfu, so ideal for a more relaxing break – plus it is as much as 50 per cent cheaper than a holiday in Corfu.

The best way to get to Ksamil is by flying into Corfu which costs from £15 per way, and then it’s a two-hour drive to Ksamil.

Swap Capri for Procida

Often considered Capri’s smaller and quieter cousin, the tiny island of Procida sits off the coast of Naples and can easily be explored in its entirety without the crowds of Capri.

On the island’s cliffs you’ll find hidden medieval towns and fishing villages, such as Marina di Corricella, which is completely car free and has brightly coloured houses.

Another spot to visit in Procida is Terra Murata, which is the oldest walled village in the region and sits on the island’s highest point.

And don’t worry, you won’t miss out on beaches either with dark volcanic sand spots with crystal clear waters.

There are rules in place that also stop Procida from becoming overdeveloped, so instead of expensive, flashy hotels you can stay in a fisherman’s cottage.

The best way to get to Procida is by flying to Naples costing from £16 per way, and then hopping on a ferry for an hour.

Swap Stockholm for Malmo

Instead of heading to Stockholm when in Sweden, visit the country’s third-largest city – Malmo – where you’ll find hidden squares and pretty beaches.

The city is much-loved for its food including meatballs, falafel and ramen.

You can also head to a number of coffee spots and craft breweries.

Much like Stockholm, the food scene is thriving – but you’ll get cheaper prices and less crowds.

You can also tie it in with a visit to Copenhagen in Denmark, which you can easily reach with a 30-minute train ride.

Flights to Malmo take under two hours and cost as little as £21 per way.

Swap Mykonos for Pelion Peninsula

Sitting east from the Greek mainland, you’ll find the Pelion Peninsula – a vibrant region with an abundance of nature and hiking spots.

Instead of ferry loads of people heading to the beach, you’ll find quiet coves devoid of sunbeds.

You could even head to Damouchari, which was where Mamma Mia! was filmed.

Key villages to visit on the Peninsula include Makrinista with amazing views of the region, the mountainous village of Tsagarada and Millies, a traditional settlement.

And for a fraction of the cost of a Mykonos villa, you can stay in a historic stone mansion in some of these villages.

The best way to get to the Pelion Peninsula is by flying to Thessaloniki costing from £26 a way, and then driving three hours to the Peninsula.

Swap Copenhagen for Aarhus

When people think of heading to Denmark, the first choice is often Copenhagen but the country’s second city is on the up.

Aarhus – also dubbed the ‘City of Smiles’ – is known for its cobblestone streets and medieval feel.

Throughout the city you can see half-timbered houses as well as head to the Old Town Museum, which is the world’s first open-air museum dedicated to urban history and culture.

Crowned European Museum of the Year 2026, you can explore 75 historic buildings that have been relocated from 20 different Danish towns.

For more history, head to Denmark’s largest cathedral dating back to the 12th century and home to the largest collection of medieval frescoes in the country.

Accommodation and food in the city will set you back less than in Copenhagen while direct flights to Aarhus take under two hours and cost from £16 per way.

At 5am on Arkösund bay, it is so light it could be midday. I slip out of the pretty clapboard Arkösunds hotell, opened in 1895, as a small boat putters into the Baltic Sea, the sun sparkling on its calm waters. A wooden boardwalk invites me on to a string of tiny islets as geese arrow overhead and a mother swan coaxes her fluffy cygnets into a nook under a bridge.

I’m on Sweden’s east coast to explore the Östergötland archipelago, a sprawl of about 9,000 islands scattered across the Baltic Sea a few hours south of Stockholm. Quieter and less crowded than the better-known isles off Stockholm or Gothenburg, it covers several pockets of coastline and smaller archipelagos: Arkösund, Sankt Anna, Gryt and Tjust. The larger islands are flecked with traditional red timber summer houses, and are home to seals, sea birds, and dense, verdant forests of alder, cedar, oak and pine.

I’d arrived in a suitably slow fashion. My journey to Arkösund – a 45-minute drive from Norrköping station along a road locals call the End of the World – started 24 hours earlier, with an early morning Eurostar from London to Brussels, then on to Hamburg via Cologne, where I boarded the SJ EuroNight Train to Norrköping. I slept while we slipped across the Danish border in the early hours and crossed the Øresund Bridge into Sweden. Dawn unfolded in pink, dusky waves as we shuddered out of Malmö towards Östergötland.

Visitors navigate the region’s islands in sailboats, small motorboats or kayaks, spending elongated summer days swimming, fishing and hiking. From Arkösund jetty, I take to the water with Åsa, a local guide, in a motorboat belonging to Kauko Lindstedt, a Finn who has spent 40 years living on the island of Aspöja, a four-mile crossing away. There is an unspoken rule, Åsa says, that if you spot a moored kayak or boat, move on. In the Swedish spirit of allemansrätten – the national law to roam and sleep freely in nature – there are enough islands for everyone.

Aspöja is one of the few inhabited islands and Lindstedt, as with many islanders I meet, is industrious: building, hunting, smoking fish, running boating tours, and eager to share his home, where just 25 people live year-round. We land at his jetty and walk across grassy meadows dotted with lumps of granite and teeming with butterflies. There are no cars, though the jetty has a communal wheelbarrow for groceries and post. We meet Helen, who farms sheep and cattle, knits, tans sheepskins, keeps bees, grows vegetables and runs the only restaurant, Forsmans på Aspöja, with her daughter. Lunch is smoked fish and boiled potatoes heaped with fresh dill, alongside a glass of Baltic seawater, filtered through the island’s small desalination plant.

On the trip back to the mainland, we pass an island stacked with fishing nets, buoys and wooden crates. A pair of craggy-faced men wave – brothers in their 70s, the final vestiges of a once thriving fishing industry, Åsa tells me. They are the last two fishers legally able to catch eels; the licence can only be passed on through family, and with none it ends with them.

The next day, Åsa and I drive further along the coast to the Sankt Anna archipelago, stopping for lunch at Mauritzberg Castle, a 400-year-old manor house rebuilt in pastel rococo splendour after the Russians burned it down in 1719. At the bay of Sankt Anna, I meet a German tourist packing his kayak for a 10-day solo adventure. He tells me he paddles for days from island to island without seeing a single soul and adores it – it’s his third trip here.

From the shore I clamber into a kayak alongside Andreas, my guide, another Finn who works for outfitter Kajakparadiset, and we paddle into the languid, liquid landscape. We stop for fika – hot coffee and something sweet – on one islet, stretching out on sun-scorched granite as a sea eagle soars above.

That night I sleep at Skärgårdsbyn Mon, a hotel on the mainland shore, after a meal of buttered sea bream and potatoes eaten on the wooden balcony of the Boathouse restaurant, overlooking the marina, with the islands spilling out behind. I wonder enviously which one the German kayaker has chosen to sleep on underneath the barely darkened sky.

I wake to rain. But with temperatures averaging around 23C, summer here is comfortable. Driving south with Åsa, I learn that about 70% of the country is forested, and it’s crossed by hiking and biking trails.

At Fyrudden, a hamlet on the south-eastern end of a narrow peninsula in the Gryt archipelago, Magnus Lindkvist, a boat captain, is waiting in his grandfather’s wooden boat to take us across eight miles of open water to the island of Harstena. It’s where his grandparents once lived and he spent every summer of his childhood, and continues to go there today with his family.

A cluster of 18th-century cabins still stand. The old schoolhouse is a museum, depicting the history of these wild islands, where herring, eel fishing, seabird eggs and seal blubber were once the means of the islanders’ survival. A 1641 census registers two households, and a family tree traces local names back to their two families – including Magnus, and now his son.

Back on the mainland, we drive north and inland to spend the night in Söderköping, where in 1281 King Magnus Ladulås’ wife, Helvig, was crowned in its medieval church. This tiny town is steeped in history, standing at the eastern end of the Göta Canal, which the Swedes, in a bid to avoid Danish taxes, began building in 1810, connecting Gothenburg to the Baltic Sea. I spend the next morning cycling alongside it, stopping to sample ice-cream from the Smultronstället cafe and handmade chocolates from Jolla.

By evening, I am back in Norrköping, an industrial city once booming with textile and paper mills powered by water. Today, the mills have been restored into a stylish district of bars, apartments and offices. The streets are alive at night as students celebrate the end of term and city revellers gear up for a weekend of national celebrations.

From the train window the following day, as I head back to the UK, I watch the fields and forests unfurl as Norrköping station slides away behind me, the summer light filtering through the trees and across the red weatherboard farmsteads. A skein of geese flies overhead in a V, and I imagine the kayaker searching for his perfect island to camp tonight, and Magnus teaching his son to fish for herring from his great-grandfather’s boat – the delicate balance of nature and visitor continuing in harmony.

The trip was provided by Visit Sweden. The writer travelled by rail from Eurostar London to Brussels (from £39 one-way), then to Cologne/Köln (from £16.50 one-way), and on to Hamburg (from £16.50 one-way). The SJ EuroNight train from Hamburg to Nörrköping costs from £40 one-way. Elite Grand hotel Norrköping has doubles from £80 B&B; Söderköpings Brunn from £93 B&B; Skärgårdsbyn Mon from £100; and Arkösunds hotell from £170 B&B

The Round of 32 has already delivered shocks, shootouts and scenes that will live long in World Cup memory.

After Paraguay stunned Germany and Morocco sent the Netherlands home on penalties, Tuesday brings three more games, with France, Norway and co-hosts Mexico all looking to avoid becoming the next big casualty.

Ivory Coast face Norway, France meet Sweden and Mexico take on Ecuador as three more places in the last 16 are decided.

Here is what we know:

What is Tuesday’s schedule?

• Ivory Coast vs Norway (noon/17:00 GMT) at Dallas Stadium, Texas, in the US
• France vs Sweden (5pm/21:00 GMT) at New York/New Jersey Stadium in the US
• Mexico vs Ecuador (7pm/02:00 GMT on Wednesday) at Mexico City Stadium in Mexico

What is the prediction for Ivory Coast vs Norway?

This will be the first competitive meeting between Ivory Coast and Norway.

Ivory Coast have found European opposition difficult at the World Cup while Norway have traditionally fared well against African teams. They have lost only two of their 19 meetings with CAF nations across all competitions.

The Opta supercomputer calculates Norway as the clear favourites to progress.

Across 25,000 pre-match simulations, Norway won in normal time 56.1 percent of the time, while Ivory Coast claimed victory in 21.6 percent. A draw after 90 minutes, sending the tie to extra time, occurred in 22.3 percent of simulations.

Norway are also strongly backed to reach the Round of 16 and equal their best-ever World Cup finish, while Ivory Coast will need to produce one of the tournament’s biggest upsets to keep their campaign alive.

What is the prediction for France vs Sweden?

France and Sweden are familiar opponents, having met 23 times across all competitions. France hold the advantage with 12 wins to Sweden’s six, while five matches have ended level.

Despite that long history, this will be their first-ever meeting at a FIFA World Cup.

The Opta supercomputer gives France a commanding edge heading into the Round of 32.

Across 25,000 pre-match simulations, France won in normal time 75.1 percent of the time, underlining their status as one of the tournament favourites. Sweden were victorious in just 9.5 percent of simulations, while 15.4 percent of matches were level after 90 minutes and required extra time or penalties.

What is the prediction for Mexico vs Ecuador?

Mexico and Ecuador have met only once before at the FIFA World Cup, with El Tri claiming a 2-1 victory during the group stage of the 2002 tournament.

Recent meetings have been far more evenly matched. The sides are unbeaten against each other in their last three encounters, with all three ending in draws, raising the possibility that this Round of 32 tie could be decided beyond 90 minutes.

The Opta supercomputer gives the tournament co-hosts the edge but expects a competitive contest.

Across 25,000 pre-match simulations, Mexico won in normal time 47.1 percent of the time, compared with 23.7 percent for Ecuador. A draw after 90 minutes occurred in 29.2 percent of simulations, making extra time a realistic possibility.

Factoring in extra time and penalties, Mexico’s chances of reaching the Round of 16 rise to 61 percent, while Ecuador are given a 38.9 percent probability of progressing.

Which teams have advanced to the Round of 16 and who has been eliminated?

The tournament has now moved into the Round of 32.  So far, these teams have advanced to the Round of 16:

• Canada (defeated South Africa 1-0)
• Brazil (defeated Japan 2-1)
• Paraguay (defeated Germany on penalties after a 1-1 draw)
• Morocco (defeated the Netherlands on penalties after a 1-1 draw)

What else is happening?

Morocco stuns Netherlands on penalties

Morocco beat the Netherlands 3-2 in a penalty shootout to reach the FIFA World Cup last 16 after a dramatic 1-1 draw following extra time in Monterrey.

Goalkeeper Yassine Bounou was the hero, saving Crysencio Summerville’s penalty before Ismael Saibari fired home the decisive spot-kick to send Morocco through.

Morocco will now face Canada in the Round of 16 in Houston on Saturday.

The match appeared to be heading for a Dutch victory after Cody Gakpo, playing just days after he and his partner announced the loss of their unborn child, put the Netherlands ahead midway through the second half.

Gakpo’s emotional World Cup goal

Cody Gakpo broke down in tears after scoring for the Netherlands against Morocco, just two days after he and his partner announced the loss of their unborn child.

The forward chose to remain with the squad despite the tragedy and received a standing ovation from Dutch fans when he was substituted in extra time.

Saibari celebrates with his mum

A heartwarming moment goes viral as Ismael Saibari, who scored the decisive penalty kick against Netherlands, celebrates Morocco’s big win with his mother on the pitch.

Germany suffers shock early exit

Germany’s campaign came to a stunning end on Monday as Paraguay pulled off one of the greatest upsets in tournament history, winning a dramatic Round of 32 tie on penalties.

Paraguay took a deserved 1-0 lead into half-time after Julio Enciso headed home from Matias Galarza’s cross in the 42nd minute.

Germany responded eight minutes into the second half when Kai Havertz glanced in Florian Wirtz’s cross to level the match at 1-1.

With neither side able to find a winner in extra time, the tie went to penalties. Havertz missed Germany’s opening spot-kick and the Germans failed to convert three of their five attempts, allowing Paraguay to seal a famous 4-3 shootout victory and book their place in the last 16.

Paraguay declares national holiday after stunning Germany

Paraguay President Santiago Pena declared Tuesday a national holiday after the country’s shock penalty shootout victory over Germany secured a place in the FIFA World Cup last 16.

Paraguay stunned the four-time world champions 4-3 on penalties after a 1-1 draw following extra time on Monday, pulling off one of the biggest upsets in World Cup history.

Paraguay became the second South American nation to declare a national holiday after a surprise World Cup victory over Germany. Ecuador was the first, doing so after its 2-1 group-stage win over the four-time champions.

Translation: Giant Paraguay! Today, an entire country celebrates. It celebrates the victory of a team that represents the deepest part of our identity: the grit, the faith, and the strength of a people who never give up. Thank you, Albirroja, for gifting us this immense joy and for once again uniting millions of Paraguayans under the same flag. Decree No. 6280: the best things are worth the wait. Let’s go Paraguay! 

US homeland security chief celebrates Iran’s exit

US Homeland Security Secretary Markwayne Mullin said he “danced a happy dance” after Iran were eliminated from the World Cup.

Iran missed out on the Round of 32 on goal difference after a stoppage-time winner against Egypt was ruled out for offside, with their elimination confirmed when Algeria and Austria drew 3-3 on Sunday.

Speaking during a World Cup briefing on Monday, Mullin said he was “glad they’re done, and they’re not coming back”, adding he was happy when Iran’s visas were revoked and the team left US soil. He also said Iran had required more attention from US authorities than any other team at the tournament.

The comments add to Mullin’s public dispute with the Iranian team. Earlier in the tournament, he alleged members of Iran’s travelling delegation had attempted to bring someone with ties to the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps into the United States, an accusation the Iran Football Federation dismissed as “false, fabricated and entirely baseless.”

Daizen Maeda’s smart finish to Japan’s team goal is cancelled out by Anthony Elanga’s long-range strike as Sweden fight back to earn a 1-1 draw, ensuring both sides progress to the World Cup knockout stages.

MATCH REPORT: Japan 1-1 Sweden – Group F

Available to UK users only.

Cody Gakpo and Brian Brobbey both scored twice as the rampant Netherlands thrashed Sweden 5-1 in a World Cup warning to the favourites.

The big win on Saturday in front of nearly 69,000 at Houston Stadium put the delighted Dutch on the cusp of the knockout rounds and gave them lift-off after being held by Japan.

Ronald Koeman’s side top Group F with four points from two games, ahead of Sweden on three, Japan (one) and Tunisia (zero).

Despite the sobering loss, the Swedes had plenty of chances but were denied by good goalkeeping and wasteful finishing.

Sunderland striker Brobbey got his first start of the tournament and repaid Koeman with predatory goals after five and 17 minutes.

Before that, the 24-year-old had scored only once for his country since making his debut three years ago.

In a game full of top Premier League talent, Liverpool’s Gakpo – who set Brobbey up for the opener – scored twice early in the second half.

Substitute Anthony Elanga from Newcastle United pulled one back for Sweden just before the hour with a classy finish.

West Ham’s Crysencio Summerville had the last word for the five-star Dutch.

Two crew members from the historic Artemis II lunar mission were among the VIP guests, a nod to Houston’s place as the home of space flight.

There was no problem here as the Dutch, twice pegged back in a lively 2-2 draw with Japan to start their title bid, made the brighter start in front of their orange-clad fans and King Willem-Alexander.

Brobbey, who came in for Summerville despite the winger scoring against Japan, started and finished the first goal.

It was made in the Premier League, with goalkeeper Bart Verbruggen, midfielder Tijjani Reijnders and Gakpo all involved.

Brobbey exchanged passes with Gakpo, before the Anfield attacker crossed in low from the left for his team-mate to stab in from close range.

Sweden, who thrashed Tunisia 5-1 in their first game, could not handle Brobbey’s muscular presence.

Up front, the much-vaunted attack of Liverpool’s Alexander Isak and Viktor Gyokeres of Arsenal were feeding on scraps for Sweden.

Gakpo’s half

Twelve minutes after his opener, Brobbey made it 2-0 when a deflected Denzel Dumfries cross from the right fell perfectly into his path and he toe-poked past Kristoffer Nordfeldt.

Sweden’s English coach, Graham Potter, was in deep discussions with his backroom staff as the game threatened to run away from them.

At the unpopular hydration break, Potter made a beeline for left-sided defender Gabriel Gudmundsson of Leeds United, who was being overrun by the flying Dumfries and Donyell Malen.

Sweden then had their best chance, Gyokeres crossing for an unmarked Yasin Ayari, who completely miscontrolled the ball with his chest.

Gyokeres was next to fluff a good chance, failing to make proper contact after being played in by the largely anonymous Isak.

Gyokeres and Ayari both had further sights of goal, only to be denied by the increasingly overworked Verbruggen.

The Netherlands were hanging on by the end of the half.

Koeman sent on Summerville for Malen at the break and two minutes later it was mission impossible for Sweden, Gakpo prodding in from close range after yet another dangerous low cross from Dumfries.

All three goals were strikingly similar.

Gakpo scored a lovely fourth on 54 minutes, turning inside his defender before firing low into the bottom corner.

Elanga pulled one back five minutes later when he raced clear of the Dutch defence and rattled the ball past Verbruggen.

Summerville made it five in the dying minutes with his second goal in North America.

Sweden are still in with a good chance of progressing into the last 32.

Japan and Tunisia play later Saturday in Monterrey, Mexico.

Sweden face Japan next, while the Netherlands play Tunisia.

The court found he had controlled her through threats of violence and security cameras. He was convicted of offences including attempted rape, aggravated pimping, assault and unlawful threats following a trial in Härnösand, on Sweden’s eastern coast.

Two goals from Ayari and one each from Isak, Gyokeres and Svanberg take Sweden to the top of Group F in Monterrey.

Sweden crushed Tunisia 5-1 to leave the North African nation’s defensive reputation in tatters and seize control of World Cup Group F as the Mexican city of Guadalupe hosted its first fixture of the tournament.

Graham Potter’s men took the lead in the seventh minute of the game on Sunday, courtesy of midfielder Yasin Ayari’s thunderbolt from outside the box, following a mix-up at the back.

The celebrations of Ayari, who is of Moroccan and Tunisian descent, were muted, despite his fine finish.

Sweden doubled their lead on half an hour after a rapid break freed Alexander Isak on the left.

The Liverpool forward raced ahead and cut inside before unleashing a shot, which goalkeeper Mouhib Chamakh failed to keep out, even though he got a hand to the ball.

Tunisia did not concede a single goal in qualifying, becoming the first side to achieve the feat, subsequently matched by Ivory Coast and England.

Sweden threatened to overwhelm their opponents, but the match changed complexion minutes before half-time, when Omar Rekik headed home Hannibal Mejbri’s teasing cross.

However, the Scandinavian nation restored their two-goal cushion in the 59th minute after another defensive calamity for Tunisia.

Midfielder Ellyes Skhiri was caught in possession on the edge of the box by Isak, who fed Viktor Gyokeres, and the Arsenal man fired home.

Substitute Mattias Svanberg made it 4-1 late on after VAR ruled he was onside.

And there was still time for another stunning goal from Ayari from outside the penalty box.

Sweden reached the quarterfinals of the 2018 World Cup in Russia, but did not qualify for the tournament in Qatar four years later.

Tunisia were the first African team to win a World Cup match when they beat Mexico in 1978, but they have never progressed beyond the group stages.

Imagine the Swedish landscape and a stereotypical scene of idyllic red cottages with white trim, foregrounded by a lake of glimmering blue, might spring to mind. Beyond perhaps, adding depth, lies a band of birch and spruce, and a midsummer view of wooded islands.

Now, add to this image the sight of two half-naked men lunging from a tiny sauna cabin into the cold shock of a lake. One screams. The other ducks his head under, pops up, shivers, then does it again. His skin has the pinkish tinge of salmon, but he’s smiling.

Those swimmers are my friend John and me (I’m the one grinning), and we’re quickly learning that the subversive joy of cold-water swimming – and stripping off in nature – are Swedish obsessions.

We’re on the first day on the Lelångenleden, a 112-mile (180km) cycle route of newly linked trails, which takes riders from the Bohuslän coast, north of Gothenburg, through the lakes of Dalsland and deep into the coniferous forests of Värmland, where the country is wilder still. The promise is traffic-free gravel roads and a segment that runs along the embankment of the discontinued Lelången railway, as well as a journey punctuated by stops in lake towns so charming they could easily be creations of Pippi Longstocking author Astrid Lindgren.

But we’re up for a sterner challenge than the recommended four-day itinerary. Our plan, researched and booked online using West Sweden Trails’ helpful planning tool, is to split the route into three sections of about 40 miles each and cycle for up to five hours a day. Along the way, we’ll be staying in quiet hotels and a campsite where the food is as important as the lake setting.

“You won’t be alone,” says Erik Josefsson, founder of the Dalsland Experience, the tour organiser and bike shop that rents us our gravel bikes and bikepacking gear – for the next three days, we’ll be living out of frame and saddle bags. “Why not?” I ask Josefsson, a little disgruntled. “Sorry, I meant to say there’s plenty of wildlife in the forests!” comes the reply.

West Sweden’s burgeoning cycling scene is largely thanks to the ambition of the regional tourist boards. Now in development, the Västkustleden will be a new national cycle path between Gothenburg and the Norwegian-Swedish border, while the 105-mile Ljungleden opens this month and links together two of Sweden’s most popular trails (the Kattegattleden in Gothenburg and the Ätradalsleden in Falköping). More and more Swedes want to spend their summers cycling, and the Lelångenleden – affordable, family-friendly and largely flat – is tipped to become the next top-tier trail.

We start in the coastal village of Uddevalla, overlooking the beaten metal blue of the Byfjorden, setting off from the Strandpromenaden, a beautiful seaside boardwalk below granite cliffs – a few years ago, it was named Sweden’s most beautiful road. Then, before we head north, a 15-minute detour takes us to Gustafsberg, Sweden’s oldest seaside resort, with a beach, a jetty, a colony of crimson-tinted bathhouses and a historic lido converted into a hostel.

After four hours in the saddle, the fully serviced eco-campsite at Ragnerud Lake, at the foot of the Kroppefjäll plateau in Färgelanda, is a welcome stop for our first night. We check in to a cosy red cabin, then take canoes out on the lake and enjoy a restorative sauna, before watching the sun’s glorious rays cresting the treetops as the light fades. There is a very special quiet and otherworldliness to Sweden in the late summer.

Overseeing this wilderness are campsite owners Linus Bergström and Marielle Örtengren, who grew up on the lake, and the location offers access to one of southern Sweden’s largest hiking destinations. On their doorstep is 200m years of geology and 80 miles of trails.

The campsite’s sustainable restaurant Ragnerud Kök showcases the gifts of the forest – mushrooms, lingonberries, dill flowers. We share plates of kroppkaka (boiled potato dumplings) with chanterelles and brown hazelnut butter, and beef with beetroot and mushroom cream. Then it’s lingonberry-poached pears with forest marmalade. “We hike, we pick mushrooms. Then there is the pure thrill of jumping into the cold lake,” says Linus. “We love the simplicity of the forest and the slow pace of life.”

On untamed gravel roads the next day, red waymarkers guide us to the Dalsland Canal, a system of natural lakes and locks connecting 157 miles of waterways, where cold water swimmers regularly strip off, leaving John looking sheepish. Our cycle route soon morphs into the canal towpath, and we pass a lock house turned summer cafe that’s selling waffles and ice-cream, and lock keeper’s cabins of stone, wood and iron, which can now be booked for overnight stays.

At the end of the 19th century, the variety of terrain – bristling forests, silent mountains, quivering lakes, almost alpine landscapes – prompted Prince Eugen of Sweden and Norway to describe Dalsland as a microcosm of his homeland. As a prominent landscape painter, the prince captured the soul of the place better than most, and his description fits the Sweden we wheel through. With more lakes than anywhere else in the country, our map shows hundreds of spreading fingers, with depths of inky blue.

We stop for the night in the former lumber town of Bengtsfors, checking in at First Hotel Bengtsfors before heading for dinner at Storgatan 19, a cocktail bar with a menu fit for a Tour de France winner. “Seasonality is vital,” co-owner Oliver Tveter tells us, and I order a lifetime-best skagen (prawn salad, but served on a potato pancake) and fallow deer with pickled pumpkin.

The woods around the town are so vast, breathing and beckoning that they can fool you into believing you are being followed, especially in the slanting, shifting early morning light. For all that, it’s not frightening, but a landscape that enlivens the senses. Often, there are roe deer running earnestly across the road – once, I brake hard to avoid a collision.

What’s more, there is a sense that time is not linear in Dalsland. When we cycle deeper into the dense coniferous forests on our last day, it is as if the clock has been wound back. The red barns and lonely church on Lake Västra Silen look like period pieces. When we surface again from the woods to arrive in a blaze of Lycra in the little mill town of Gustavsfors, we have to push onwards for our fika (social coffee break) as it’s Sunday and all the cafes are shut. Any thought of modern-day Sweden has largely been erased.

On our last afternoon, near journey’s end in Värmland, the gravel slowly welcomes us back into the 21st century. I had worried there wouldn’t be enough to do on our trip, but in the end there are so many interruptions – lakes that quiver like jelly, photo stops for elk signs, cold swims everywhere – that we have to clock-watch until the end.

As we reach the road to Årjäng, where our trip finishes, I gaze back and strange half-certainty comes to me. That I’ll return to west Sweden as soon as I can – maybe even on a bike.

The trip was provided by West Sweden tourist board. The Dalsland Experience organises guided and self-guided itineraries and rents gravel bikes and bikepacking gear. Itinerary planning information can be found at Lelångenleden. Ragnerud camping pitches from £20; cabins from £75. Doubles at First Hotel Bengtsfors from £96 B&B. Lock keepers’ cottages from £200

A Gaza-bound ship carrying aid has begun its voyage from Sweden, weeks after Israeli forces abducted activists on a similar mission in international waters. The ‘Handala II’ vessel says it is carrying humanitarian supplies for Palestinians to break the Israeli blockade on the enclave.