Scotland

“Being so close to a childhood dream of mine, to play in a World Cup, and now it has been taken away from me with an injury. It’s been a tough one to get my head around.

“Your support and kind messages over the last few days mean the world to me and haven’t gone unnoticed, so thank you so much.

“I’ll see you all back doing what I love again soon, but until then, let’s get behind the team and cheer them on. Come on Scotland!”

Scotland have qualified for their first World Cup finals since 1998.

Head coach Steve Clarke and his squad left Glasgow for the United States on Sunday and face Bolivia in their final warm-up friendly on Saturday in New Jersey.

Scotland start their Group C campaign against Haiti on Sunday, 14 June before playing Morocco and Brazil.

It’s home to a 170-year-old pub, world-famous golf, medieval cathedral ruins and a legendary bakery that all visitors have to try.

Summer is almost here, making it an ideal opportunity to escape for a short break. If you fancy visiting somewhere with outstanding cuisine, stunning scenery, a fascinating past and a calming atmosphere, there’s one spot that deserves a place on your travel list – and once you visit, you’ll want to come back again and again.

Home to one of Britain’s most ancient universities, St Andrews on Scotland’s east coast is truly unique. Where else might you find a 170-year-old pub a stone’s throw away from an Oliver Bonas? It’s a location I’ve visited so many times, yet every trip uncovers something new to experience.

On a weekend getaway to Lower Largo, a tiny village in Fife, we popped into St Andrews for the afternoon. From Edinburgh it’s approximately an hour and a half’s drive, while from Glasgow it’s an hour and three quarters.

Whether you’re enthusiastic about it or not, most people probably know that St Andrews is primarily known for its golfing legacy.

The Old Course, one of the world’s most famous courses, boasts an iconic landmark that demands a picture, no matter how frequently you’ve been.

The Swilcan Bridge, constructed over 700 years ago, was our initial stop on this outing. Located on the course’s 18th hole, stepping onto the green feels extraordinary, yet it offers the ideal photo opportunity. You’ll inevitably come across fellow tourists, so you may need to queue briefly for your photo opportunity, but it’s absolutely worth the wait. Just a two-minute walk away sits the fantastic Jigger Inn pub, which was our next port of call for a bite to eat.

Dating back to the 1850s, the Jigger Inn is a cosy, welcoming pub with roaring fires that gazes out over the golf course. There’s a brilliant selection of drinks at the bar, or you can sit down and order from the menu, which is exactly what we chose to do.

Nobody will convince me there’s a better combination than a caesar salad, chips and wine, and the Jigger Inn delivered all three brilliantly.

Suitably fed and watered, it was time to explore the town itself. It’s not the largest, with most shops and attractions spread across roughly three main streets, yet you could happily wander around for hours without getting bored.

St Andrews is a truly remarkable place, with its medieval heritage plainly visible as you stroll through its streets. The university began teaching in 1413, which is extraordinary to think about, particularly given that it remains a thriving academic institution to this day.

There’s no denying it’s an exceptionally wealthy area. Students from all corners of the world move here to study, and its multiculturalism only adds to its charm. It’s also famously where William and Catherine first met and sparked their romance.

One of the main attractions is the ruins of St Andrews Cathedral, located close to the waterfront. It was built back in 1158, and was previously the largest church in Scotland. Little remains of it today, and it has since been transformed into a graveyard.

Sadly, there was ring fencing surrounding numerous graves due to possible structural concerns, but it’s still a haunting yet captivating place to explore.

There’s so much going on in St Andrews that you nearly overlook the sea being right there. Just past the Old Course sits the celebrated West Sands Beach, which actually appeared in that memorable scene at the start of Chariots of Fire.

Had it been a bit warmer, this would have been the perfect location for a walk, but the wind was battering us from side to side so we opted to retreat into the shelter of the town centre.

St Andrews is brimming with superb shops, from high street names such as H&M and Jo Malone to independent boutiques and retailers that you won’t discover elsewhere. As a passionate reader, I was keen to visit Topping and Company, a popular family-owned booksellers with a handful of stores across the UK.

The staff were friendly and helpful, and the range of books available were outstanding. There was an entire table of signed first editions at the front of the shop, and the shelves appeared to extend upwards and deeper into the shop for miles.

It’s the kind of spot where you could easily spend hours browsing – and potentially spend a lot of money. Thankfully, I succeeded in restricting myself to just one book, which proved quite the test of willpower.

There was only one more destination to visit on our trip, and if you’ve got a sweet tooth, you’ll definitely want to know about it.

A trip to St. Andrews wouldn’t be complete without stopping by Fisher and Donaldson. Founded in Fife in 1919, this family-run bakery is renowned for one thing above all else: its fudge doughnuts.

Hailed as the best in Scotland, these indulgent delights are filled with fresh custard and topped with a mouth-watering fudge icing.

While other cakes and biscuits are on offer, the fudge doughnut really steals the show. We grabbed a few to have with a coffee later, and unsurprisingly, they disappeared quickly.

St Andrews is just a lovely place to spend the day or even the weekend if you want to take it slower. It’s pleasant whatever the weather, but in the summer when the sun is shining, it’s truly unbeatable.

The views are remarkable. From one window, gorse-gold hills roll west towards mountains patched with snow. On the other side, fields of new spring lambs slope down to a silver sea. Elsewhere, the bus crosses wide estuaries and cascading burns. There are thatched crofts, rocky bays and birch woods starred with anemones. One of the most remarkable things about this scenic 111-mile, 3½-hour trip on bus X99 is that it costs just £2.

Until March 2026, a single from Inverness to Scrabster on Scotland’s north coast was £28. Now, thanks to a new bus fare cap in Orkney, Highland and Moray, no journey in the area costs more than £2. The bus is timed to coincide with the Northlink Ferry to Stromness, Orkney’s second biggest town, and I’m heading there to explore by bus.

The ferry’s dining room serves Orkney smoked-cheddar macaroni cheese and Orkney fudge cheesecake. Afterwards, I stagger out on deck for blustery views of the Old Man of Hoy, its red sandstone glowing in the sunset. Scrabster to Stromness (£22-£26 each way for foot passengers) is the only ferry route that passes this 137-metre-tall sea stack off the coast of Orkney’s most mountainous island. A seal weaves through the waves below, among wide-winged gannets and sleek guillemots.

I’m staying in a little whitewashed cottage called the Shed up the Lane, 10 minutes’ walk from the ferry port and just off paved Victoria Street with its shops and galleries. I can stroll from a flat white in elegant Stromness Coffee to dark island cake at Julia’s Shed via the Pier Arts Centre, a stylish light-filled gallery full of works by Barbara Hepworth, Ben Nicholson and others.

From April to October, bus X1 runs every half an hour, with an hourly service to the neolithic village at Skara Brae. Baby rabbits hop over the fields and sand martins are nesting in the cliffs nearby. You can still see where people slept, ate and kept bone tools on slab-built shelves 5,000 years ago. In summer, a ticket includes Skaill House, a delightful crow-stepped mansion. It was built by a 17th-century bishop, whose great-great-great-great-grandson, William Watt, first rediscovered Skara Brae in 1850 when a violent storm exposed the long-buried stone-age houses.

I get the bus to the Ring of Brodgar (free) and, with no parked car to get back to, hop back on after a two-mile linear walk to the Stones of Stenness (also free). Sandwiched between one salty loch and one freshwater, the area includes an RSPB reserve. I follow a flowering loch-side trail, where redshanks and oystercatchers forage on the shore. Swans are nesting near the Bridge of Brodgar and one pair have built their causeway-nest from seaweed.

Bus X1 heads towards St Margaret’s Hope and I get on, meaning to go all the way. The hour-long journey crosses the Churchill Barriers linking four islands, passing the Italian chapel on Lamb’s Holm, and ends near the Murray Arms, known for its seafood. But it’s beautiful weather outside and already past lunchtime. Another passenger recommends the Loki Seafood Shack, hidden on an industrial estate near Stromness. A few minutes later, I’m sitting in the sunshine eating fresh, hand-dived scallops with chilli jam and griddled hake with red Thai butter. The shack is run by chefs Leigh Gould and Alan Skinner. Leigh explains how the scallops are sustainably harvested by scuba divers, “just like picking potatoes out of a field, except the potatoes are under water”.

Back in Stromness, I walk round the coast with views across sparkling Scapa Flow to Hoy’s volcanic mountains. On the way, Stromness Museum (£7.50/free for kids) is an old-school treasure trove. Exhibits cover 5,000 years, from a rare neolithic figurine to Orcadian poet George Mackay Brown’s rocking chair. There are harpoons and snowshoes, painted chests and carved whalebones. In a glass case of Victorian stuffed birds, I’m finally able to ID the colourful birds I’ve seen hopping around the beaches all day as wheatears.

Puffins, known locally as “tammie norries”, are returning to their nesting places for the summer. The best place on Orkney mainland to see them is around the cliffs in the island’s northwestern corner. Wild Orkney Walks is offering new bus-friendly tours for 2026, including the May-August Seabird City Experience (£40). It’s designed to fit the timetable for bus 8S, which runs close to the RSPB reserve at Marwick Head.

It’s still only April when I visit, so I plan to take bus 8S next morning and walk to Birsay, through the ruins of a 16th-century palace. The only sounds are cows, curlews and crashing waves. Near the village church, there’s an honesty box selling biscuits called fattie cutties and jars of rhubarb chutney. I cross the snaking low-tide causeway to the Brough of Birsay, admire a Viking church and look at the seabirds on the cliffs below the lighthouse. Then I follow the coast, where the turf is springy with budding thrift, clifftops gold with celandines, and fulmars chuckle from rocky nest-ledges. Waiting, near bird-rich Birsay beach, for bus 7 back to Stromness, three puffins fly past in the misty light. At the wood-panelled Ferry Inn, supper is a perfectly cooked slab of chargrilled salmon with green beans, pea shoots, fresh apple and pickled radishes.

With a few hours next day until my ferry, I get the bus to Kirkwall to visit St Magnus Cathedral. On the way, there’s one more prehistoric site: you can only visit Maeshowe chambered cairn on a guided tour via shuttle bus from the visitor centre in Stenness. The grassy banks are sprinkled with violets; inside, there is runic, dagger-carved Viking graffiti. Runes suggest ancient wisdom, but this is loo-door stuff: “Haermund Hardaxe woz ’ere.”

Bus travel means I can end with a drink. Orkney has two huge and centuries-old distilleries: Highland Park and Scapa. The harbourside Orkney Distillery, founded in 2016, is much smaller and has so far produced mostly gin. Their first single malt whisky will be ready in 2027. An engaging tour ends with tasters, after which it’s a four-minute stumble to the bus station. I spend the night, across the water, at Scrabster’s Ferry Inn. My £2 bus next morning is run by Ember (book ahead), the world’s first all-electric, intercity bus company with wifi and charging points.

Back in Inverness, the brand new Inverness Castle Experience (£20), presenting itself as a gateway to the Highlands, involves immersive sound-and-light shows scrolling across the Victorian castle walls. There are soaring eagles, thundering oceans and whispering stag-filled forests, while spectral voices say things like: “It’s a voyage, it’s a pilgrimage, it’s a saga.” Next door, Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (free) has an amazing collection of Highland stuff: Caithness glass, a carved Pictish wolf, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s death mask … There’s time to stroll round Ness Islands, and enjoy live music in the Victorian Market’s food hall, before boarding the Caledonian Sleeper (seats from £54, twin cabins from £290). The night train will replace leafy riverside Inverness with grey London towers. But before I sleep, there’s sea bass and a glass of cold white wine as the sun sets over the Cairngorms.

The trip was supported by Visit Scotland with transport provided by Northlink Ferries and Caledonian Sleeper

If you’re looking for a cheap UK seaside getaway, one beautiful town has been named among the best and most affordable to visit, with five-star food and a historic castle

Here in the UK, there are countless stunning seaside towns worth exploring, and they’re even more spectacular when the sun is out. But it’s well known that taking a holiday in the UK can sometimes cost more than travelling overseas.

Luckily, the consumer experts at Which? have carried out research into the best and most affordable seaside towns to explore in the UK. And securing one of the top spots is Stonehaven, a charming fishing town with excellent beaches and even better food and drink. According to the experts, costs average at approximately £90 for an overnight stay here on the northeast coast of Scotland.

This scenic harbour town, situated just a brief drive south of Aberdeen, has a rich history, coastal views and authentic Scottish character. One of the town’s main attractions is Dunnottar Castle, a medieval fortress perched on a rocky headland.

Following the cliffside route from the town to the castle ruins provides you with sweeping views of the North Sea, while the town’s lively harbour is an ideal spot to relax and observe the boats arriving.

Stonehaven’s beach is also hugely popular, earning a 4.2 out of five star rating on TripAdvisor. One delighted reviewer said: “This is such a lovely beach! It has a great promenade from the top of the beach where cafes are right to the harbour.

“We had fabulous weather dry and sunny so made the views spectacular. Well worth a visit.”

According to the most recent seaside town survey conducted by the experts at Which?, Stonehaven is also highly rated for its food and drink offerings.

It achieved a five out of five star rating for its culinary scene, making it a particularly brilliant destination for seafood lovers,

The Tolbooth Restaurant is an absolute must for the freshest catch of the day, while the Marine Hotel serves up classic pub grub such as fish and chips, steak or beef stew.

For those with a sweet tooth, Aunt Betty’s is the place to be, where you can treat yourself to an ice cream and savour it while strolling along the shoreline. And for the ultimate Scottish treat , a trip to The Carron Fish Bar — the birthplace of the world-famous deep-fried Mars bar — is unmissable.

Stonehaven’s beach is predominantly made up of pebbles and shingle, with numerous rock pools and fascinating geological features. However, if you fancy somewhere a bit more comfortable, Stonehaven’s seawater lido is well worth a visit.

The Olympic-sized pool is heated and accessible from late May through to September, so you know you can always go for a refreshing swim no matter what the weather is looking like.

Other budget-friendly seaside destinations worth considering include Whitby (£94 per night), Llandudno (£85 per night) and Lytham St Annes (£95 per night).

There was already scrutiny over Steve Clarke’s decision to omit Oli McBurnie from Scotland’s World Cup squad.

After Saturday at Wembley, there might be much, much more.

McBurnie was Hull City’s match-winning… nay, promotion-winning, hero – their new Dean Windass, in less spectacular but arguably far more dramatic fashion.

The 29-year-old Scot pounced on a mistake by Middlesbrough goalkeeper Sol Brynn in the fifth minute of stoppage time to score the only goal of the Championship play-off final.

It sent the Tigers back to English football’s top flight after a 10-year absence.

His Wembley winner came just four days after the 19-goal forward was omitted from Clarke’s squad for this summer’s global extravanganza in the USA, Canada and Mexico.

So while he may not be going to the World Cup with Scotland, McBurnie is going to the Premier League with Hull.

“I am quite pleased he is not going to the World Cup because now he can rest, ” Tigers boss Sergej Jakirovic told BBC Sport.

“He had a conversation with the head coach (Clarke) and it was explained to him what the situation was.

“He scores goals – but this [selection] is the job of an international coach and I respect that.”

After naming his squad, Clarke intimated the player maybe did not fit into the type of character he wanted in his squad.

“You got the sense McBurnie could have scored a hat-trick in every game in the last two months of the season and Clarke would have been unmoved,” wrote BBC chief sports reporter Tom English.

“Maybe he doesn’t fancy him as a footballer, maybe he doesn’t fancy him as a human being. Whatever.”

Jakirovic, however, believes McBurnie is a positive influence in the Hull dressing room.

“He is a leader – he is different and has so much experience in the Championship and creates fear in opponents,” the Croatian said of his former Swansea and Sheffield United forward.

It’s only 15 minutes from a major tourist city, but it couldn’t be more different.

When a heatwave arrives in the UK, you have to go to the beach – it’s an unspoken rule. There are so many beautiful spots to choose from, and if you like a bit of shopping and some great food alongside your sunbathing, one place should be on your radar.

It’s not far from a major capital city, but it has a completely different vibe. I first visited Portobello last year, and I’m astounded I didn’t make the trip sooner.

With a main street brimming with independent shops, the best chips you will ever eat, and great transport links, it’s genuinely a perfect spot if you’re keen to stray from the beaten track.

The bus ride from Edinburgh city centre lasted just 15 minutes, dropping us right in the heart of the town, and it was immediately obvious that this place was something special.

Predictably, our first stop was making straight for the seafront for a relaxed walk along the shoreline. The weather was wonderfully bright and crisp, and it was so refreshing after the hour-long train trip from Glasgow.

Portobello’s coastline extends for two miles, featuring a Victorian-era esplanade and sweeping views over the Firth of Forth. Since it was a sunny Sunday morning, the location was fairly bustling, with plenty of families out walking and dogs charging about on the beach.

The very first thing that caught my eye about the beach was how spotless it was. It’s plain to see that the residents of Portobello, or ‘Porty’ as it’s affectionately known, take enormous pride in their surroundings.

In 2024, Portobello was crowned the second-best coastal town in the UK by JoJo Maman Bebe, and its beach has also been recognised with a Keep Scotland Beautiful award.

After a relaxed walk along the shoreline and building up a hearty appetite, we decided it was time to find somewhere to eat. The seafront at Portobello beach is packed with a vast selection of dining options, from enormous pizza slices at Civerino’s to brunch and coffee at The Beach House.

Many of these offer al fresco seating, letting you dine virtually on the beach itself, and it was wonderful to see so many visitors taking full advantage of that. We decided to try Shrimp Wreck, a seafood outlet offering a small but tempting menu. This street food vendor appeared on BBC’s My Million Pound Menu and has built its reputation on fish finger sandwiches – even reaching the finals of the Birds Eye Fish Finger Sandwich Awards in 2017.

Unsurprisingly, that’s exactly what I went for, and it’s easy to understand the hype. Battered flaky fish fillets, mushy peas and the best chips I’ve ever had, all served in a soft roll, was perhaps the messiest meal I could have chosen, but I wouldn’t change a thing.

Afterwards, we properly ventured into the high street where our bus had dropped us off. It sits directly behind the seafront, and while it wasn’t quite as heaving as the beach, there were still plenty of folk wandering around – and crucially, a decent selection of shops open.

One highlight for me was The Portobello Bookshop, a charming independent bookshop packed with novels, cookbooks and loads more. The interior was bright, welcoming and comfortable, the kind of venue where you could happily spend hours browsing without getting bored.

They also run events, including Q+A’s with authors, so it’s worth looking at their schedule if you’re thinking of visiting.

Cove is another essential stop for anyone who loves gift shops. This place was crammed with every imaginable trinket, from Jellycat toys to candles and shampoo bars, plus gorgeous cards and irresistible chocolate treats as well.

Portobello’s high street might not be the biggest, but it’s undoubtedly one of the nicest I’ve seen. There are more food and drink spots here, alongside pubs and even an Aldi, so you’re hardly going to be short of choices.

One place we didn’t get round to visiting, which I’m keen to come back for, is the swim centre. Here in Portobello, you’ll find an authentic Victorian Turkish bath, one of just 11 in the UK, plus a gym and fitness studio, so this is definitely on the agenda for our next visit.

If you’ve never ventured to Portobello, it really is the perfect spot for a weekend break – even when it’s not sunny. Its closeness to the bustling city of Edinburgh makes it ideal if you’re wanting to flee the city rush and spend some time eating, drinking and relaxing by the sea.

This remote island was once a thriving town – but now all that remains are ruins.

Hidden away in a far-flung Scottish archipelago lie the remains of a once-bustling settlement, deserted by all who called it home. The island of Hirta in the Outer Hebrides was occupied for 2,000 years, but during the 1930s, its final inhabitants evacuated due to health concerns.

It’s so isolated that it’s often omitted from maps altogether and can only be reached by boat – weather permitting.

It’s one of 40 islands in the St Kilda archipelago and now hosts the world’s largest gannet colony alongside some of the biggest puffin populations. During its inhabited years, islanders depended heavily on these seabirds – not merely for sustenance but for commerce.

They traded every component of the birds from feather to flesh.

Today, the population has vanished but a handful of military structures remain scattered across the island, overshadowing the crumbling stone cottages that once housed the community.

The structures line what was formerly Hirta’s main thoroughfare – now occupied solely by sheep, reports the Express.

Existence there was extraordinarily harsh, with severe weather conditions and scarce resources available.

To stay warm throughout the lengthy winters, inhabitants would bring livestock inside their basic stone dwellings and allow the waste from cattle and sheep to serve as insulation.

At its height in 1851, Hirta was inhabited by 112 people but this number rapidly dwindled over subsequent years.

Medical provision on the island had always been severely restricted, and as visitors began arriving on the isolated outpost as tourists, they introduced unfamiliar illnesses that the islanders were poorly prepared to combat.

During the 1930s, following the death of a young woman from appendicitis and pneumonia — conditions that might have been treatable on the mainland — the inhabitants of Hirta took the difficult decision to abandon the island.

The residents were evacuated by vessel in August that year and transported to mainland Scotland.

Following their local custom, islanders left a plate of oats and an open bible in every dwelling before stepping aboard the ship.

The final surviving former inhabitant of St Kilda, who was eight years old when the island was evacuated, passed away in 2016.

Goalkeepers: Craig Gordon (Hearts), Angus Gunn (Nottingham Forest), Liam Kelly (Rangers).

Defenders: Grant Hanley (Hibernian), Jack Hendry (Al-Ettifaq), Aaron Hickey (Brentford), Dominic Hyam (Wrexham), Scott McKenna (Dinamo Zagreb), Nathan Patterson (Everton), Anthony Ralston (Celtic), Andy Robertson (Liverpool), John Souttar (Rangers), Kieran Tierney (Celtic).

Midfielders: Ryan Christie (Bournemouth), Findlay Curtis (Rangers), Lewis Ferguson (Bologna), Ben Gannon-Doak (Bournemouth), Billy Gilmour (Napoli), John McGinn (Aston Villa), Kenny McLean (Norwich City), Scott McTominay (Napoli).

Forwards: Che Adams (Torino), Lyndon Dykes (Birmingham City), George Hirst (Ipswich), Lawrence Shankland (Hearts), Ross Stewart (Southampton).

On a January morning in 1938, Pitmiddle’s last resident, James Gillies, closed the door to his cottage for the final time and walked away through the snow. High on the south-facing slopes of the Sidlaw Hills in Perthshire, the village is now little more than a jumble of half-ruined walls gradually being reclaimed by the land.

My children pick around the overgrown stones like explorers discovering a lost civilisation, before scampering back through the gate and over the grass to our cabin in a neighbouring field. Called the Pitmiddle Hut, it’s the latest addition to Guardswell Farm, which spans 81 hectares (200 acres) of countryside halfway between Perth and Dundee (an hour and a half from Glasgow or Edinburgh). “People gradually moved away from Pitmiddle’s way of life,” says Anna Lamotte, who runs Guardswell with her husband, Digby Legge, often aided by their four-year-old daughter and a smiley 10-month-old in a vintage pram. “Villagers each had a pendicle, the small area they could farm, a system of outfields, infields and ‘kailyards’ – a Scots word for a kitchen garden.” Anna and Digby grew up on farms and small-holdings nearby, and today they rear cattle, sheep, goats and chickens and tend to the vegetable gardens, alongside welcoming guests to stay.

The Pitmiddle Hut sits in the old village’s pendicle field and the slim volume Pitmiddle Village and Elcho Nunnery in our cabin inspired the names of Guardswell’s huts: the Pendicle with its wildflower roof, the Infield with a stargazing window above the bed and shepherd’s hut the Kailyard. They can be rented alongside two cottages and a large farmhouse, all clustered around the Steading, once a dilapidated barn that is now a smart events space for weddings, craft and cuisine classes including cheese-making, and a popular monthly market. It’s also home to a small shop (stocked with the farm’s meat, eggs and Diggers cider), smart washrooms and a cosy room filled with games and wellies.

All the existing cabins were made for two, but as Anna and Digby’s family grew, and couples who married at Guardswell returned with first a dog then a baby, a bigger hideout made sense. The Pitmiddle Hut is a 10-minute stomp uphill and has a mezzanine bed up above the kitchen for grownups and a second bedroom for children to pile into the set of bunks and a double bed. The two are linked by a central indoor-outdoor space, with sliding doors for sunnier days. It’s the end of March when we stay, and the thick blankets (made with wool from Digby’s parents’ farm) and douglas fir planks lining the cabin give it a deep cosiness.

As a somewhat reluctant camper in a tent-loving family, it’s an ideal balance. We build fires in the Esse Bakeheart stove to cook dinner and keep the wool-insulated cabin toasty (there’ll soon be an outside kitchen and a firepit for toasting marshmallows too). My son dashes in and out fetching ingredients from the giant coolbox on the deck. The hut is off-grid, but uses solar-power for lights and the single induction hob. There’s a proper loo, but it’s a walk down to the Steading in the morning for a shower. It quickly becomes our favourite part of the day, saying good morning to fluffy Shetland cows, dinky Hebridean sheep, donkeys Ollie and Hugo, and cheeky pygmy goat Jimmy, who once escaped his pen and crashed a wedding. It feels as though we have the farm to ourselves.

There’s no wifi, no TV and, on my phone at least, blissfully little phone signal. Instead, a basket beside the kindling is filled with Uno, playing cards, drawing pencils and a watercolour set. My daughter washes a page with streaks of blue sky and green fields that are framed by the hut’s huge picture window, before taking a nature scavenger hunt sheet around the farm, checking off pine cones and primroses.

It would be easy to simply roam here for a couple of days, foraging for wild garlic, helping feed the animals and exploring the Big Wood at the bottom of the farm, counting the 198 steps cut into the hillside among the trees. But with all of Perthshire on the other side of the Sidlaws and Fife across the River Tay there’s plenty to get stuck into, from sandy beaches at East Neuk to Highlands hills just beyond the foodie town of Dunkeld, where the Taybank pub and Aran Bakery make a delicious detour. We swerve the Munros and instead stride out on the nearby Scone circular, starting at Old Scone Church, rebuilt stone by stone in 1805 when the village moved a couple of miles east from its original site next to Scone Palace, and climbing through gorse-thick moorland to MacDuff’s Monument and the Lynedoch Obelisk with their sweeping views to Perth beyond.

We get back to the farm just as some wet weather blows in and hole up in the boat-turned-bothy called Girl Linda’s cabin at the top of a field. Scooping up a bottle of Diggers cider and apple juice from the hut, we run for it, the kids screaming into the wind. We light candles and the tiniest wood-burning stove – the valley below now so lost in mist that it feels like the River Tay might rise up and sweep us out to sea. We play Monopoly Deal as the rain whips against the portholes, before rousing a sing-song with the boat’s motley crew of instruments – bongos, guitar, glockenspiel and a giant metal triangle. “Let it go, let it go, I am one with the wind and sky …” My daughter’s favourite, suddenly apt.

We wake on the final morning to milk-glass skies and the rhythmic whirl of two woodpeckers in the trees as the sun rises through a fringe of woodland below us. There are recorded Guardswell morning meditations to start the day, a gentle prompt to pause. But stillness is low on my children’s agenda, so we throw on boots and fleeces over pyjamas and head for the swings on the hill above the hut. Pitmiddle’s simple way of life might not have survived against the advances of the modern world, but for a few days its slower rhythm feels within reach.

Accommodation was provided by Guardswell Farm. The Pitmiddle Hut sleeps six (two adults and up to four children) from £220 a night (two-night minimum), guardswell.co.uk

The town offers a rich history, seaside attractions and world-famous treats – and even if it’s raining, it’s still pretty amazing.

Spring has sprung here in the UK, and we’ve been treated to some excellent weather in the past couple of weeks. With more of the same hopefully on the horizon, it’s the perfect time to start planning a beach trip or two.

Britain is home to so many amazing spots, and you don’t even need to let the unpredictable weather put you off. There’s one I have been visiting since childhood that’s bustling in summer without being too crowded, but even if it’s raining, it’s still pretty special.

Largs, a charming coastal town on Scotland’s west coast, is roughly an hour’s drive from Glasgow. Renowned for its Viking museum, classic amusement arcades, and ferry crossings to the Isle of Cumbrae, it’s a destination many Scots will have probably visited during warm summer spells.

But even when the heavens open, there’s still plenty to enjoy. During a family getaway, we loved our rainy seaside strolls, ate some superb food, and even saw a few Vikings – all without a hint of sunshine.

This lovely town located on the Firth of Clyde boasts everything you’d want from a coastal retreat, with a wide selection of hotels and accommodation options.

We stayed at the Old Rectory, a stunning holiday property accommodating up to 14 guests, complete with a hot tub and plenty of space for relaxing. One of Largs’ best aspects is how close you are to the waterfront wherever you happen to be.

The Victorian seafront is brimming with attractions, boasting an impressive array of restaurants serving everything from traditional fish suppers to mouth-watering Thai food.

Largs holds enormous historical significance as the site of a pivotal battle in 1263, which marked the end of Viking influence in Scotland.

The Vikingar museum gives a captivating window into this history, though for a more immersive experience, the annual Largs Viking Festival is highly recommended. As luck would have it, the festival was taking place during our August visit, featuring battle re-enactments, live entertainment, and some striking costumes.

Beyond its Norse heritage, Largs is just as famous for its art deco ice cream parlour, which has been drawing crowds for generations.

Nardini’s, affectionately known as Scotland’s most famous cafe, has earned its reputation thanks to its wonderfully inviting atmosphere, alongside its outstanding ice cream. Like Vikingar, it boasts a superb waterfront location, making it an ideal spot to enjoy a scoop or two of your preferred flavour.

In addition to their wide selection of cakes and light snacks, it’s a brilliant option for lunch or a quick bite while wandering along the seafront.

Walk into the town centre and you’ll discover delightful narrow streets packed with independent gift shops, eateries and even more ice cream parlours.

On one particular morning, we opted for brunch at Perk — a vibrant café full of plants and books, boasting an impressive menu to match. The vanilla matcha was a delight, and the feta and avocado waffles were simply too tempting to resist.

Still hungry after your meal? There’s a tempting cake display brimming with pastries and other sweet treats available to take away.

While Largs may not have the familiar high street names, it more than makes up for it with a fantastic range of independent traders stocking one-of-a-kind items.

A large market marquee is home to sellers offering everything from organic dog food to wooden lamps, jewellery, soaps and even tarot readings — you could quite easily spend hours wandering.

If you want to head further afield, jump aboard a short ferry crossing from the harbour to the Isle of Cumbrae, home to the charming town of Millport.

The island is small enough to cycle around in just a couple of hours, with a well-deserved pint awaiting you at the end before a swift 10-minute sail back to the mainland. Nearby, the magnificent Kelburn Castle stands proud — a stunning park and estate that hosts its very own summer music festival.

It’s brilliantly suited to families too, boasting several playgrounds, cascading waterfalls and plenty more to discover, all within a 10-minute drive from Largs. However, truthfully speaking, Largs alone offers more than enough attractions to keep you busy for a day trip or a full weekend getaway.

If you happen to visit on a sunny day, it’s just perfect. But even if it’s raining, don’t worry – it only makes those coastal strolls all the more invigorating and the cosy ice-cream parlours even harder to resist.

The West Highland Line has been named the world’s most beautiful railway, but does Scotland’s iconic 164-mile train journey truly live up to the hype? I boarded the train through the Scottish Highlands to find out.

“I think this is the most beautiful train line I’ve ever been on.”

Those words genuinely escaped my mouth as my wife and I rattled through the Scottish Highlands, skirting the edges of glistening lochs, weaving between ancient mountains, and crossing hauntingly stark yet stunning moorland.

“You’ve been on it before,” she kindly reminded me. Thankfully, my tendency to experience something and then completely forget about it doesn’t diminish its beauty one bit.

The legendary West Highland Line departs Glasgow and plunges deep into the west coast, steaming alongside the Clyde to Helensburgh, before heading north via Garelochhead and Loch Long towards either Oban or Mallaig. Shortly after escaping Scotland’s largest city, the undulating, wind turbine-topped hills begin to swell as the Highlands draw near.

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The railway carries you northward along the coastline, passing through the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. At Crianlarich, the track divides, continuing either past Loch Awe towards Oban, or climbing high up to Rannoch Moor.

The line traverses the moorland for 23 miles, ascending to over 400 metres and offering unrivalled vistas of one of Europe’s last remaining wild places: an enormous expanse of blanket bog, lochans, rivers, and rocky outcrops where curlews, grouse, roe deer, and red deer roam freely.

The Moor captured near-national fascination during the Victorian period, when initial fear and mild disgust at its wild and forbidding character transformed into devotion. Among the early travellers were the poet William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy, who visited in 1803 and tentatively described the place as “desolate and extensively wild”.

Just seven years later, Scotland’s greatest champion, Sir Walter Scott, published his celebrated poem The Lady of the Lake. The work showcased Loch Katrine in the Trossachs, south of Rannoch Moor, thrusting it into the spotlight. Inspired visitors descended on the region to witness how “Summer dawn’s reflected hue to purple changed Loch Katrine blue” for themselves.

Travelling north to the Highlands and back again a few days later, we experienced both faces of this remarkable landscape. During our night journey, the glens and Munros loomed against the train window, making our tiny illuminated carriage feel insignificant as it rattled along. On the bright, sunny return trip, the breathtaking vistas — sparkling lochs nestled beneath sheer mountains capped with lush greenery — felt more reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria than bonny Scotland.

Without doubt, the most iconic spot along the route is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, immortalised in the Harry Potter films as the path of the Hogwarts Express. Passengers cross this magnificent structure en route to Mallaig, the terminus of the 164-mile line.

However, spending an afternoon at the viaduct may be worth reconsidering. During my visit, a persistent drizzle dampened the spirits of the crowds of Potter enthusiasts, many of whom appeared rather deflated by what was on offer: two pipers playing sombrely and some railway infrastructure. Add to that the fact that the locals of the 100-person village are fed up with the crowds, and the choice to give it a miss seems straightforward.

Mallaig is a far superior option, boasting excellent whale-watching excursions that provide frequent sightings of the cheerful minke pods inhabiting the waters.

There are numerous other attractions to discover along the route.

Corrour, Britain’s highest-altitude railway station, draws Trainspotting enthusiasts due to its prominent appearance in the film. It is equally picturesque and captivating. There are no roads here, so visitors head directly onto the walking trails via a quick meal at the Corrour Station House.

Another gem is Tyndrum. This former mining settlement is now the smallest location in Britain to boast two railway stations. They enable travellers to branch off, climbing steeply up the glen towards the north or west.

For me, the town marks the final stop in the Lowlands, the spot where you pause before heading across the Moor and into the mountains. Such adventures require fuelling up on fish and chips or curry at the superb Green Welly Boot Stop while watching its wonderful collection of birds.

The West Highland Line is far more than just a train journey. Step aboard and you’ll find yourself rubbing shoulders with forestry workers heading to work, mountain bikers, walkers, local schoolchildren, and railway enthusiasts eager to discover whether a route once crowned the world’s most beautiful truly lives up to its reputation. It’s a living tapestry of Scotland at its finest: mountains, moorland, lochs, wildlife, and history, all rolling out before you at a gloriously unhurried pace.

The former Ross County and Sunderland striker earned the latest of his two Scotland caps in 2022, but free from injury problems he has now scored 11 goals in 33 appearances for the side who finished fourth in the Championship, five in his latest 10.

Fellow 29-year-old McBurnie did not add to his 18 goals in 41 appearances but also played his part for sixth-top Hull as he started both legs of their 2-0 aggregate win over third-placed Millwall.

The former Sheffield United and Las Palmas striker recently telephoned Clarke to make a direct plea for a first recall since earning his 16th cap in 2021.

All 48 national associations were asked to submit a provisional squad of up to 55 players to world governing body Fifa before finalising their 26-man squad for the finals.

They are not required to make those public, so it is not known whether either Stewart or McBurnie made Scotland’s extended list.

It is likely to include current members of the under-21 squad and uncapped players like Stephen Welsh, the 26-year-old centre-half who has impressed on loan to Motherwell from Celtic.

However, Clarke said last month that he was “more or less set in my mind” about the 26 players he intends to take to the finals, although he revealed that two spots might still be up for grabs.

Clarke is known for his loyalty to players he believes have served him well, but Conway’s injury could open up another space.

Scotland host Curacao, who have just reappointed former Rangers boss Dick Advocaat as head coach, in a 30 May friendly at Hampden before their final warm-up game against Bolivia on 6 June in Harrison, New Jersey.

With domestic football in Iran suspended because of the ongoing conflict, Nazon is following an individual training programme to prepare for the World Cup.

The Haiti squad have become heroes for leading the nation back to football’s grandest stage, where they will make just their second appearance at the finals.

Nazon acknowledges that the players are now “part of the country’s history” but insists they will play without “extra pressure”, starting with their opener against Scotland.

“We are ambassadors of our country and we know we have a responsibility,” he says. “We know the young people also see us as examples.

“But we don’t have to put extra pressure on ourselves and, when we play for our country, it’s more a mission and we do it with passion and with love.”

On loan at St Mirren from Belgian club Sint-Truiden for the second half of the 2018-19 season, Nazon “had a story” in Scotland. It was short-lived, though.

The forward played 12 games, scoring twice, but said he was “not ready for this kind of aggression and fight” in Scottish football, while the weather also played a part.

“I remember one game we had sun, snow and rain,” he recalls. “After this, I was like, OK, I’m done.”

Weather is unlikely to be an issue for Nazon this summer in North America. The striker, a friend of Scotland defender Dominic Hyam – with whom he played at Coventry – did, however, voice concerns about inflated ticket prices for the upcoming World Cup matches.

“There is only one thing that starts to go in my brain – it’s the ticket prices,” he says. “Hopefully this is not going to affect the crowd and people coming to the stadium, because we want this atmosphere.

“We want this energy around us. I’m looking forward to seeing Scottish people and Haitian people in the stadiums. This is going to be important.”

The line-up for Celebrity Traitors season two was revealed on Saturday, with Ross Kemp joining his new co-stars for filming in Scotland

Ross Kemp is ready to bring some East End magic to the Celebrity Traitors castle after he was spotted landing in Scotland ahead of filming.

It was previously confirmed that the EastEnders icon, 61, was among the star-studded line-up for season two of the hit BBC game show, alongside Richard E. Grant, Michael Sheen, Leigh-Anne Pinnock and Rob Beckett.

Hours after the castmates were revealed, they were seen making their way to the Scottish Highlands, with Jerry Hall, Bella Ramsey, Amol Rajan and Saltburn actor Richard photographed on their journey.

In new pictures, Ross appeared to be thrilled to join them, flashing a thumbs up at a camera before getting into a waiting car. Other snaps showed his fellow soap legend Julie Hesmondhalgh jetting to the area ahead of filming.

Teasing what led to the Grant Mitchell star deciding to take part, an insider told the Sun: “He loves Traitors and thinks it’s a programme on another level, which is why he really wanted to take part.

“Ross loved the mix of psychological intrigue paired with some of the very physical trials that the group have to complete – both suit him perfectly.”

He is also reportedly hoping to appeal to a younger generation of viewers, who could be less familiar with his career so far.

“Plus he knows The Celebrity Traitors won’t just be watched by people who are familiar with his work, but by younger viewers who may be less familiar with Ross, and this opens him up to a whole new audience. He’s also a very BBC name and this is another big BBC show,” they added.

Joanne McNally, James Acaster and Joe Lycett were also named in the line-up, alongside social media content creator King Kenny, Love Island presenter Maya Jama and Romesh Ranganathan.

Industry actress Myha’la and Professor Hannah Fry rounded out the cast with Sharon Rooney, James Blunt, Sebastian Croft and Sharon Rooney.

While the gang have been all smiles so far while heading to Scotland, things will get very tense once filming kicks off and suspicion over the game sets in. Shortly after filming, the 21 celebs will be sorted into “faithfuls” and “traitors” as they battle it out for the charity cash prize.

It will be up to those faithfuls to weed out the sneaky traitors, who have been tasked with secretly killing them off in nightly visits to the turret.

Following the huge success of the first season, where around 15million people tuned in to see Alan Carr win the competition as a Traitor, fans have been eagerly-awaiting news of a second series, and have already predicted Michael, Richard and Miranda could be this year’s “big dogs ”.

The air date has not yet been announced, but the hit show is expected to return to screens in autumn.

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Our two England fans fly out of Heathrow on Monday, 15 June with return flights to JFK in New York costing just over £500 each – which is good value.

With the Three Lions’ final group game taking place in New Jersey, it is the most cost-effective way to travel to the US and back, with the first stop being Dallas.

After landing in the States, they pick up a flight to Dallas the same night – this costs £283 per person.

Four nights at the Hampton Inn & Suites Dallas Market Center cost £624 (£156 a night) for a twin.

Double rooms, which are more available in all cities, come in cheaper at the Hilton Dallas Medical District at £560 (£140 a night).

Both properties have breakfast included, meaning Dallas – which also has free shuttle buses from stations to the stadium in Arlington – is an affordable start to the trip.

The England supporters fly to Boston on Friday, 19 June with the fare £378 each.

Boston is at the other end of the scale as one of the more expensive host cities for accommodation.

Our couple stay at the Hampton Inn & Suites Boston Crosstown Center, costing £1,650 (£330 a night), including breakfast, for five nights.

The cheapest twin-bed option in the city itself is £2,041 (£408 a night) without breakfast at the Courtyard Boston Downtown/North Station.

It is possible to book a hotel near the airport £500 cheaper but with five days in the city, it may not be worth the saving.

With England’s third game being in New Jersey, there is no need to take a flight. The supporters can hop on the Amtrak train to New York on Wednesday, 24 June with tickets £42 each.

Unlike in Boston, there are still lots of hotel options in New York with a five-night stay before the flight home on 29 June.

A double at the Truss Hotel Times Square costs £1,184 (£237 a night) while a twin at the AMTD Idea Tribeca Hotel is £1,275 (£255 a night).

This time, however, you will need to head out for breakfast.

But the last two games come with a sting – train tickets to the stadiums cost £59 per person from Boston and £114 from New York.

Just to get to the States and travel around, the estimated costs for two friends are £6,273 and for a couple £5,855.

And what of the family? It is going to cost £9,008 to get to the States, get around and put your heads down.

Costs are helped by some hotels offering free stays for children.

In Dallas, the Comfort Inn Dallas Medical-Market Center costs £627 (£156 a night).

The same Hampton Inn is used in Boston with a higher cost of £1,763 (£353 a night).

Over in New York, the Holiday Inn in Times Square costs £1,589 (£318 a night).

With 13 medals between them, Alex ‘Tattie’ Marshall and Paul Foster lead the Scotland bowls team for the Commonwealth Games in Glasgow this summer.

The vastly experienced duo will link up in the men’s pairs event, which they won at Glasgow 2014.

Marshall, who has seven Commonwealth Games medals in his collection, said of his eighth selection: “It is always such an honour and privilege to be selected to represent Team Scotland at the Commonwealth Games.

“To have another opportunity to be a part of a home Games is also not lost on me, and I know that Paul and I will give it our very best to try and win a medal for the team.”

Marshall’s niece Beth Riva, who won 2025 World Championship mixed pairs gold with Jason Banks last year, joins Caroline Brown in the women’s pairs.

Banks will make his Team Scotland debut in the singles event.

Bowls Scotland announced the host nation’s squad on Tuesday, with the Commonwealth Games bowls events running from 24 July to 2 August.

For the first time in Commonwealth Games history, all of the bowls and para bowls events will be played indoors, taking place at the SEC Centre.

In the para team, Pauline Wilson, Garry Brown, Robert Barr and his director Sarah Jane Ewing are all aiming for repeat golds after topping the podium at Birmingham 2022.

The best oysters of my life arrive on a polystyrene tray, eaten elbow-to-elbow with strangers at a table littered with empty shells and damp paper napkins. We huddle beneath a tarpaulin, sheltering from the fine spray of rain rattling on the roof, the wind whipping around the hulking CalMac ferry moored metres away, and the beady-eyed scavenging gulls.

“Have you tried this? You have to,” says a woman who has driven from Glasgow just to eat here, pressing a rollmop herring into my hand. I take a bite, the thick skin giving way to sweet and salty flesh, juices running down my chin. Elegant dining this is not, but all the better for it. This is Oban Seafood Hut, tucked beside the ferry terminal for boats heading into the Sound of Mull. Diners shuffle around a shared table, listening for order numbers, with plates piled high with langoustines, crab and oysters. It’s cash only. In the back room, a team of women butter thick slices of soft white bread for crab sandwiches, wrapping them in clingfilm without ceremony, to be sold within minutes.

Often on Scotland’s west coast, it’s the least assuming places that are worth seeking out. The hotel down the road may have a wholesaler on speed-dial, while a shack in a car park is serving seafood brought ashore just hours before. Though west coast seafood is rightly lauded across the world, it’s here, eaten metres from the water, that it tastes the best. For years Scotland’s best seafood went directly to top restaurants in major cities, but now more of it stays local. Whether enjoyed in a shack, a windswept croft or cosy dining room, there’s a commitment to getting the freshest fish and shellfish to the most people, in a way that honours the produce, people and landscape.

And a new generation of cooks is making the most of local produce, cooking it simply and letting the quality speak for itself. In a small car park in Scourie, a village strung along the road between Lochinver and Durness, is Crofter’s Kitchen. Grant Mercer was previously head chef at the nearby Kylesku hotel, but became convinced local seafood shouldn’t be reserved for fine dining. With his wife, Heather, he opened the modest shack on their working croft by the beautiful sandy beach, and started cooking it for everyone. The ethos is a 30-mile menu, built entirely around what is landed locally, so it changes constantly, “sometimes daily, sometimes mid-afternoon if the catch dictates it”, Heather says. The house special is hand-dived scallops from around Handa Island, about a mile from the kitchen, served with chorizo risotto and chilli black pudding. No white tablecloths required.

In Ullapool, Kirsty Scobie and Fenella Renwick started The Seafood Shack trailer above the harbour, determined to keep more of the local catch in the town. Both from fishing families, their close-knit supplier connections guarantee the best of the day’s catch, and the menus are built around it. Think lobster macaroni cheese, crab claw salad and haddock tacos. After years of cooking through Highland weather, they are finally building a permanent restaurant on the same site. Whether this means the season (usually April-October) will be extended, we’ll have to wait and see.

I also love the Creel Seafood Bar in Fionnphort, on Mull, beside the Iona ferry. I confess I skipped touring Iona Abbey to make sure I didn’t miss last orders, but the langoustine and chips were worth it.

Same name, different island, The Creel in Elgol on Skye sells freshly cooked cold seafood from their horsebox near Elgol beach, ideal if you’ve booked a wildlife tour nearby. The “Elgolian” squat lobster rolls are the best seller, for very good reason. It’s a wild spot, making opening hours very weather dependent, so check their social media first. The Oyster Shed at Carbost, also on Skye, is another gem. Run by an oyster farmer, it’s a simple setup with picnic table seating and the quality is sky-high.

On the mainland, Blas na Mara Seafood Shack in Fort William is a brilliant addition to the town, and the “lunchbox” with Loch Linnhe langoustines, mackerel paté, salad and oatcakes makes a very special picnic.

Growing up in the Lochaber region, to me Crannog was the definition of fancy. When it opened in Fort William in 1989, it stood as a rare beacon of fine dining in the Highlands. Lochaber should always have been a gastronomic haven, its west coast and sea lochs producing Europe’s finest seafood. It wasn’t. Instead, refrigerated lorries thundered through the villages, carrying Mallaig’s catch south without stopping. Fisher Finlay Finlayson helped change that, transforming a bait shed on Fort William pier into a distinctive red-roofed restaurant. The ethos was simple: serve the freshest seafood possible. It’s where I had my first oyster, saw lobster served and discovered the quiet magic of restaurants – setting a standard for the Highlands, and for me.

Today the original lochside restaurant is storm-battered and awaiting repairs to the town pier, so it has relocated to the safe haven of Garrison West on the High Street. Here, chef Philip Carnegie runs a tight ship, with beloved staples like mussels, oysters and Cullen skink still in place. Portions are hearty, and they need to be: often diners arrive after a day on the hill or celebrating the end of the West Highland Way. Try the Mallaig cod with mussels, and always check the specials board.

Another favourite is The Pierhouse hotel by the Lismore ferry in Port Appin, which offers a welcome refuge, with cosy fireplaces and warm service. The menu tells you who caught your supper and from which nearby loch. The best tables overlook the pier, where you may see the catch arriving. Order fresh Loch Leven rope-grown mussels cooked in cider, Loch Creran oysters, or push the boat out and share The Pierhouse platter.

Loch Leven Seafood Cafe (on the north shore) is a perfect casual pit-stop if you’re heading west, or after a day in Glencoe. Freshly cooked and simply served, there’s often more unusual seafood here, such as fresh razor clams and surf clams with garlic butter. The shellfish soup with aioli is superb.

Some meals require more of a trek. Until last year, Gareth Cole ran Café Canna, raising the profile of food on the eponymous pint-sized island, and giving it a forager’s twist with dishes such as dulse seaweed croquettes and kelp miso ramen.

He has now moved on to a new culinary adventure on the Isle of Coll (a 2hr 40min ferry ride from Oban) that promises to be worth the journey. The Urchin is named after one of Cole’s favourite ingredients. “There is an unbeatable larder on this island,” he says. He has recently started a brewery too. The Boathouse on Ulva is also worth travelling for – it requires a ferry to Mull then a tiny passenger boat to Ulva, but the seafood, welcome and views make up for the journey.

As a food and travel writer I’m lucky to have eaten all over the world, but it’s here, where I grew up, I’ve had my best meals. After years eating my way around the Highlands and Islands, it’s a delight to have discovered so many more places – and to see more creative chefs succeeding.

Back at Oban Seafood Hut, I watch a creel of live langoustines being hauled out of a small boat and sent straight to the kitchen. Perhaps I’ll stay just a little longer …

Bothy on Loch Torridon, Wester Ross

With its cheery, cherry-red tin roof, you can’t miss the sturdy stone bothy on the Ben Damph estate. The family-owned 5,868-hectare (14,500-acre) estate nudges up to Loch Torridon, and the bothy, constructed from the ruins of an old black house (a traditional thatched home), has views over the loch to the mountains beyond. Restored by a team of stonemasons, it has two rooms (each sleeping two) warmed by log burners. The furniture has been made from the estate’s timber by a local cabinet maker. Between the two rooms is a “sitooterie” with picture windows framing views over to Ben Alligin. There’s no electricity, but there is running water and a gas-powered hot shower next to the bothy; a compost loo is in the garden.
Sleeps 4, from £342.50 for two nights, bendamph.com

Gastropub and bunkhouse, Cairngorms national park

Squirrelled away among the trees on the banks of the River Spey and on the edge of Aviemore, the Cairngorms’ outdoor activity capital, the Old Bridge Inn is a gastropub with a handful of hip hostel rooms. The dogs-under-the-table inn has a roaring fire and is famous for its folk music sessions. By the riverside beer garden, paddle boarders, canoeists, wild swimmers and anglers make their way on to and into the river; while for climbers, hikers and mountain bikers, the forests and hills of the Rothiemurchus estate are on the doorstep. The bunkhouse has a vintage chic vibe, with seven en suite rooms and dorms and a kitchen – although if you don’t fancy cooking, head next door to the pub and tuck into Strathspey venison samosas with carrot and cumin sauce and roast hispi cabbage.
Dorm beds from £30, double rooms from £85, family rooms from £95, oldbridgeinn.co.uk

Hotel and bunkhouse perfect for exploring Glen Coe

Not much can match Glen Coe for jaw-dropping grandeur. This majestic glen is hemmed in on one side by the jagged peaks of the challenging Aonach Eagach ridge, and to the south, the buttresses of Bidean nam Bian. In 1692, one of the most infamous massacres in history took place here, government forces slaying the MacDonald clan as they slept. Today, it’s a giant outdoor playground, its bleak beauty drawing Munro-baggers, hikers and mountain-bikers. The West Highland Way also passes through the glen, with walkers bedding down in Kingshouse hotel and bunkhouse, a smart wooden hostel with charcoal-grey tin roof. The hotel’s glass-fronted restaurant gives panoramic views of the valley.
From £44 for a bunk, £54 for a bunk and breakfast, kingshousehotel.co.uk

Remote cottage on the car-free island of Ulva

Anyone who binge-watched Banjo and Ro’s Grand Island Hotel will know how picturesque the little community-owned, car-free Hebridean island-off-an-island of Ulva is. A short boat ride from Mull, it’s just 7½ miles long by 2½ miles wide. A 5-mile tramp from the pier (next to the excellent Boathouse restaurant) through dappled woodland and along a coastal track, brings you to Bearnus bothy. Perched above a beach where you can go swimming, this little off-grid cottage has been thoughtfully kitted out by Andy and Yvette Primrose, who also run the island’s hostel. Battery-operated fairy lights are strung around the bathroom – fill the old tin bath with water heated on the wood-burning stove. There are games, stacks of novels, guidebooks and maps, and Crocs and wellies to borrow for island yomps.
Sleeps 2, from £121 for a two-night stay, airbnb.co.uk

An inn with rooms and fresh seafood on the Isle of Skye

Charlie Haddock fell in love with the Stein Inn on her way to the Outer Hebrides years ago. In 2019, she packed up her life in London and moved her family to the remote Waternish peninsula to run this whitewashed waterfront hostelry dating from 1790, the oldest inn on Skye. Charlie works front of house and in the kitchen, preparing the langoustine, lobster and crab landed just a few feet from the door (her son and daughter help out in the holidays). The five rooms, all with sea views, were spruced up in 2024 with dove grey tongue and groove, burnt orange headboards and modern artworks.
From about £80 B&B, thesteininn.co.uk

Eco-hostel on Rannoch Moor

Originally a timber-clad boathouse and stables, the old-school Loch Ossian hostel was built around 1895 on the eponymous loch’s shores by Sir John Stirling Maxwell, the owner of the Corrour estate. A passionate environmentalist, in 1931 he handed the building over to the Scottish Youth Hostels Association. Today, the ivy-green and white-trimmed award-winning eco-hostel, hunkered into the windswept wilderness of Rannoch Moor, is powered by a wind turbine and solar panels. It has compost toilets, a reed bed grey-water drainage system and non-toxic, bat-friendly paint. There is no access by car; catch the train to Corrour station then hike (20 minutes) or bike in.
Beds from £25 a night, hostellingscotland.org.uk

Hotel with panoramic loch views

Sipping your morning coffee in the sleek wooden extension of the Kylesku hotel, a 19th-century coaching inn in the north-west Highlands, you can watch the fishers unload their catch on the slipway through picture windows. Right on the water’s edge, overlooking Loch Glendhu, this gourmet bolthole on the North Coast 500 route has 11 rooms – four in the modern annexe, Willie’s Hoose, next door; two with a sea loch-facing balcony. The rugged Assynt landscape is a Unesco-designated geopark, and the hotel offers a range of activities, from guided storytelling walks to sea kayaking and photography workshops.
From about £109 B&B, highlandcoasthotels.com

New architect-designed bothies in Argyll

A derelict croft was the first property to be turned into an off-grid, hillside hideaway on the Lochnell estate. It is lit by hurricane lamps, and outside there’s a wood-fired, sycamore-shaded, hose-filled vintage bath with views over the bay. Now, the Croft Collective’s next batch of bothies is about to be completed. Three architect-designed boltholes, named after birds you can spot along the shoreline – oystercatcher, curlew, kittiwake – will open in June. Just a pebble’s throw from the beach, wide-angled views over the Lynn of Lorne to the Isle of Mull in the west, and the Ardnamurchan hills and the mountains of Morvern, are framed by vast windows. Each bothy has a Japanese-style sunken bath, also with dreamy sea views, hammocks, and binoculars to scour the bay for seals, otters and eagles wheeling above.
From about £220 a night, thecroftcollective.com

Lochside conservation village, Wester Ross

On the shore of Loch Carron, Plockton is a 19th-century conservation village that’s picture-postcard pretty, with yachts bobbing in the bay and palm trees fringing the waterfront. The Plockton Inn has recently had a jaunty revamp – blowsily colourful rooms with floral feature walls, crimson chairs and navy paintwork are split between the old inn, Sorley’s House over the road and The Haven next door. After a day spent visiting nearby attractions such as Eilean Donan Castle, one of the most photographed in Scotland, tuck into creel-caught langoustine or “Plockton prawns” landed on the pier.
From about £170 B&B, highlandcoasthotels.com

Cabin with brilliant sunset views on the Isle of Lewis

Watch the sunset from your bed in this cute cabin by working coastal croft Croft 10. The smallholding is grazed by a flock of Hebridean sheep, the ground scratched by hens (farm-fresh eggs for breakfast). The wooden cabin faces west for spectacular sunsets and an ever-shifting seascape. Scour the water for whales and dolphins, and the sky for birds of prey soaring above Broad Bay. Just under 8 miles from Stornoway on the remote Hebridean isle of Lewis, it’s walking distance to the restored Shulishader Steps. Clamber down to the cove, a wild swimming spot, for a dip. Or head out along the recently completed coastal path, the Point and Sandwick Trail.
Sleeps 2, from £120 a night , hostunusual.com

So what to make of a day which delivered history for Scottish women’s sport, as well as a 12-try demolition?

It is true, England are not the benchmark for Scotland.

Victory away to Wales last week was a solid start, and now it is all about the response in Italy next week and trying to beat Ireland in the final game, either side of a home game against France.

But all performances are crucial to building momentum and keeping the fans coming back, as Malcolm herself said.

Just ask the Scotland women’s football team, who have seen crowds shrink back at Hampden amid a struggle to qualify for major finals.

The Scotland captain, as ever, got the tone spot on when summing up a strange day.

“Today was about so much more than just the game,” Malcolm said. “For those of us that have been around 10 years plus – we’ve come from back pitches with a couple of people in stands.

“To even arrive today and get the reception we got was phenomenal. It’s a result of the work we’ve done as players on the pitch to put in performances that make people want to come back.

“Today wasn’t one of them. But that doesn’t take away from what we’ve created over the last 10 years to make this happen.

“We’re at the beginning of a new journey. We’re going to keep pushing to get back to that point to put in a performance in that stadium that fans can be proud of.”

Some 8,000 years ago, behind the retreating glaciers, a remarkable environment was born on the western fringes of Scotland’s Outer Hebridean islands, forged by the wind and waves. It began with rising sea levels and sweeping Atlantic gales depositing crushed shell-sand inland; this settled over glacial sediment to form a coastal belt of lime-rich soil. Buffered from the sea by mounting sand dunes, this winter-wet and summer-sunned substrate produced one of Europe’s rarest habitats: the “machair”, Gaelic for “fertile grassy plain”. Abounding in diverse, colourful wildflowers and an array of associated wildlife, coastal machair is a precious, globally important outpost of biodiversity, supporting everything from purple orchids and nodding blue campanulas to endangered birdlife, otters and rare bumblebees.

As a wildflower fanatic, visiting the Outer Hebrides in peak machair bloom has long been an aspiration. Over the years, I’d read accounts of its arresting, vibrant seasonality – its shifting blankets of red and white clover, yellow trefoil and creamy eyebright, bold against the sky. Although remnant machair is also found in north-west Ireland, its greatest extent lies on this Scottish archipelago, notably the islands of Barra, Uist and Harris.