Scotland

There aren’t many roads in Britain where you can pull over to cook breakfast and finish it without seeing a single car. While my friend Ben got the stove going, I wandered around the ruins of Dun Dornaigil, an iron age broch (stone roundhouse) more than 2,000 years old. Above us, low cloud drifted across the dark cliffs of Ben Hope. This was exactly the kind of lost lane we’d come to Sutherland to ride.

Our journey had begun the day before, in Lairg – the traditional “crossroads of the north”. With its Spar shop, hotel, train station and a population of about 800, Lairg is the largest inland settlement in one of the most sparsely populated regions of Europe. Sutherland – literally, the “southern land” of the Vikings, who held sway over the far north of Scotland from their stronghold on Orkney – tests life to its limits: bare mountains, impassable peat bogs and one of Britain’s wildest coastlines.

Today, the region’s biggest draw isn’t a particular place but a route. The North Coast 500 is regularly ranked among the world’s greatest road trips – and has been dubbed the “Instagram highway”. Over the past decade, its runaway success has doubled the traffic on its roads. Plenty of cyclists do ride the 516-mile (830km) circuit, or parts of it, but we had not come to this far-flung corner of Scotland to spend our time amid a procession of motorbikes, sports cars and campervans.

Heading west from Lairg, we turned into Glen Cassley. On the map, it’s a dead-end lane that dwindles to a rough 4×4 track. After a couple of miles bumping along the gravel, a ribbon of silky-smooth tarmac appears as if by magic (it is, in fact, a service road for a dam and a small hydroelectric generator). It led us up a steep climb over the top to Loch Shin.

From here, the only way across the next range of hills was an old drovers’ road over the Bealach nam Meirleach – or Thief’s Pass – a name hinting at earlier use by cattle rustlers. Thanks to Scotland’s enlightened access laws, we were free to give it a go. The only question was whether our fully laden touring bikes would be up to it. Though boneshaking at times, it was a thrilling 8-mile ride over genuinely remote hill country, passing a string of lochans (small lochs) flanked by huge, glacier-scoured cliffs. Descending into Strathmore, we found the perfect wild-camp spot by the river. Perfect, that is, until the midges appeared, forcing us to don our slightly absurd nylon head nets to keep them at bay.

The next day, after our roadside breakfast by the broch, we continued on a narrow road from Strathmore to the tiny hamlet of Altnaharra. The very name has a romance to it, and I’d heard it now and again on weather bulletins in the depths of winter (the weather station here jointly holds the record for Britain’s coldest recorded temperature: –27.2C in December 1995). A small hotel, originally a 17th-century drovers’ inn but reopened in the 1820s to bring anglers and deer stalkers to the area, is open from March to October. With the sun blazing in a cloudless sky and the land so lush and green, it was impossible to imagine the long, dark winters where heavy snow can leave the handful of local people cut off for weeks.

Downstream of the hotel is a three-arch stone bridge built by Thomas Telford, wittily dubbed the Scottish “colossus of roads”, who gave Sutherland its first proper highways. We set off on his road to the coast. It crosses the western edge of the Flow Country, a seemingly infinite expanse of mountain and blanket bog. Walter Scott described this far north of Scotland as the “immeasurable wilds” and the distant, never-changing horizons can be disorientating. As the miles ticked by, my eye was drawn instead to the microcosm at the roadside: verges dotted with delicate flowers, mosses and lichens; dark, still pools of water ringed with reeds and tufts of pure white cotton grass.

Eventually, we reached the coast and the village of Tongue. As we freewheeled down the hill, a sea eagle picked us out and glided overhead, matching our speed, as if lazily sizing us up for its next meal before deciding we weren’t worth the bother. We stopped for our lunch on the sunny terrace of the Tongue hotel, a former hunting lodge furnished in the Highland style – all dark wood, polished brass, tartan and antlers. Tongue overlooks a shallow sea loch where whales, dolphins, seals and otters are regularly spotted. In the 1970s, a causeway and road bridge were built across the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue, replacing a ferry crossing. Almost no one drives the narrow old road around the loch. It’s a genuine lost lane, with views across the turquoise waters of the loch and inland to the shapely granite peaks of Ben Loyal.

On the far side of the loch is the Moine, for centuries another impassable morass of blanket bog. To cross it, we had no choice but to join the stream of traffic on the fast and wide A838, which forms part of the North Coast 500. A closer inspection of the map revealed a few fragments of the original road, now abandoned. Some sections were a muddy quagmire, but others were surprisingly intact. Along the way, we stopped in at the roofless ruin of a small house where travellers once took refuge from storms.

Across the Moine, we reached the northern tip of Loch Hope, where the Danish billionaire Anders Holch Povlsen has just opened what may be the country’s most expensive hotel: rooms at Hope Lodge cost upward of £1,550 a night. Povlsen is a paradoxical figure. Scotland’s biggest private landowner, his fortune was made from fast fashion, an industry widely criticised for its record on the environment and on labour. Yet, as well as running a handful of luxury retreats, his company WildLand has made ambitious commitments to nature conservation and rewilding on his vast estates. After pondering what comforts lay behind the metal gates of Hope Lodge, we set off down a narrow lane along the shore of the loch, where we spotted two campers quietly rewilding themselves for free.

We soon discovered this was a gem of a lane, with its thick sward of grass up the middle, winding its way past drifts of heather and eucalyptus-scented bog myrtle, and through sun-dappled glades of downy birch and sessile oak. Stopping in a narrow ravine, we drank deeply of the cool, peaty water that spilled down in a cascade. On this 20-mile stretch, we passed just two farmsteads. The emptiness of places like Strathmore is the legacy of the notorious early 18th-century Sutherland clearances in which thousands of farming families were evicted, often violently, to make way for commercial sheep grazing.

Returning to the crossroads at Altnaharra, it was time to turn south on to the road to Lairg. Our destination for the night was the Crask Inn, a historic drovers’ haunt that offers cyclists free camping in the garden. We pitched next to a lone German who was closing in on John o’Groats, the end of a ride that had begun a fortnight earlier at Land’s End. Our tour of just three days had covered 130 miles. We had travelled along lonesome highways, forgotten byways and the remotest of hill tracks. In setting out to avoid the North Coast 500, we had ended up riding where no campervan could go.

Jack Thurston’s new book, Lost Lanes Scotland, is out now (Wild Things Publishing, £18.99). This tour combines two rides from the book

GOING on holiday is something we all look forward to, but with rising prices across the board, wouldn’t it be great if you could go somewhere in the UK that looks abroad?

Think white sands and crystal clear waters – the UK is home to some great destinations that will make you feel as if you have jetted off somewhere.

So, let’s put it to the test – can you guess which of the following destinations are abroad and which are in the UK?

One image above shows Tresco Abbey Gardens on Tresco, in the Isles of Scilly and is noted to look more like a thriving tropical jungle than the UK.

The gardens – which first opened in the 1830s – are home to more than 20,000 plants, from 80 countries, sprawling across 17 acres.

Nestled in between the plants, you’ll also find hand-carved figures made from the wood of shipwrecked boats.

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The other image shows one of the forests found on La Palma in the Canary Islands, Spain.

The forests are much-loved by tourists that are keen hikers, with multiple trails through them.

More specifically, Los Tilos Forest is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve on the island and is one of the largest laurel forests in the Canary Islands.

Answer: The first image shows Tresco Abbey Gardens on Tresco, in the Isles of Scilly and the second image shows La Palma in the Canary Islands, Spain.

One image shows Dartmouth in Devon, littered with Tudor-style houses that make it look as if it has been plucked from the Netherlands or a quaint German village.

The Dutch port-style harbour is home to The Butterwalk, which is a row of overhanging half-timbered Tudor buildings dating back to the 1630s – mimicking the buildings commonly seen in the Netherlands.

The town is home to plenty of independent shops and cafes to explore and to venture around the estuary the town sits on, make sure to hop on a river cruise.

The other image shows the historic houses in Celle, Germany.

The town in northern Germany sits on the banks of the River Aller and is around 25 miles from Hanover.

The town is home to one of the largest and most densely packed collections of half-timbered houses in Europe dating from the 16th to 18th centuries.

Answer: The first image shows Celle in Germany while the second image shows Dartmouth in Devon.

One image shows Portmeirion in Gwynedd in North Wales, which was built by architect Sir Clough William-Ellis to look like the Italian Riviera.

With pastel-coloured houses and a subtropical micro-climate, it really feels as if you could be in the Med.

The village has a central plaza and other European-style features include classical pillars and ornate domes.

Thanks to the micro-climate, you’ll also find exotic plants including palm trees.

Day tickets to Portmeirion cost around £20 per adult.

The other image shows the popular fishing village of Portofino on the Italian Riviera.

Known for its pastel-coloured houses, the village is cobbled throughout and boasts a number of designer stores and seafood restaurants.

To get to Portofino, jump on a ferry from Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Camogli or Genoa.

Answer: The first image shows Portmeirion in Gwynedd in North Wales, while the second image shows Portofino in Italy.

One image shows Blackpool Sands, which is one of the UK’s most picturesque beaches and when there you’ll find a beach bar that transports you to the Med.

Complete with straw umbrellas, the cafe and bar features natural materials throughout including wood and stone.

If you prefer to be on the sand, then eat outside at one of the tables that sit directly on the golden beach.

The other image shows a beach bar in Crete in Greece.

The Greek island is known to be a haven for holidaymakers with tonnes of resorts to choose from.

Answer: The first image shows a beach bar in Crete, Greece, while the second image shows the beach bar at Blackpool Sands in Devon.

One of these is Luskentyre Beach, which can be found on the Isle of Harris, in Scotland.

Well-known for its massive stretches of white sand and turquoise waters, it is easy to think that you are in the Caribbean instead.

The beach overlooks the island of Taransay and is a great spot to head off on walks.

There is a car park near the beach where you’ll also find toilets.

The other image shows Exuma Point Beach in The Bahamas.

Known for its shifting sandbars, the beach features white sand and crystal clear waters.

During low tide, you can even walk along a mile-long sandbar and spot starfish and conch shells.

If you are really lucky, you’ll spot baby nurse sharks and lemon sharks swimming in the shallow water.

Answer: The first image shows Exuma Point Beach in The Bahamas and the second image shows Luskentyre Beach in Scotland.

One of these images shows St Andrews Lakes in Halling, Kent, which is a huge outdoor attraction with bright turquoise waters found in a former quarry.

Looking like it is from elsewhere, visitors can head to the lakes for the day and enjoy an inland beach, floating lodges and a number of activities including Kent’s largest inflatable obstacle course.

If you really want to get into the holiday mode, there is a Nordic-inspired spa onsite with wood-fired saunas and hot tubs right by the lake.

When the family gets peckish, there is also an onsite pizzeria and cafe.

The other image is of Bercsenyi Beach in Balatonakarattya, Hungary.

The beach is one of the most popular and largest family-friendly beaches around Lake Balaton.

At the edge of the beach you’ll find lots of trees and when on the beach you can even have a go at sand volleyball.

For a bit more of adventure, you can also hire water bikes and kayaks.

Answer: the first image shows St Andrews Lakes in Halling, Kent and the second image shows Bercsenyi Beach in Balatonakarattya, Hungary.

One of these images is actually the newly-opened Nici hotel in Cornwall, which has a huge 20-metre indoor pool overlooking the coastline.

But for the true ‘abroad feeling’, head outside to the clifftop heated pool with views over the ocean and a vibrant poolside bar.

According to the hotel’s website, The Nici is “inspired by the sun-soaked glamour of the Amalfi Coast” and has the “indulgence of a Mediterranean escape”.

There’s even direct lift access from the hotel to the beach below.

Rooms at The Nici Newquay cost from £155 per night.

The other image shows Hotel Imperial Med’s bar in Santorini, Greece.

The hotel is only home to suites and sits on Aghia Paraskevi Beach.

Stays at the hotel cost from as little as £111 per night.

Answer: The first image shows Hotel Imperial Med’s bar in Santorini, Greece and the second shows The Nici, in Cornwall.

One picture shows a beach on Eilean Shona in the Inner Hebrides in Scotland.

Named Shoe Bay, to visit the beach you must be staying on the island – which has a number of different cottages and shepherd’s huts.

Shoe Bay sits at the west end of the island and boasts beautiful white sands and gentle, crystal clear waters.

There isn’t much to do across the island, but you can head on scenic walks and spot the local wildlife.

The other picture shows Fuvahmulah Island’s beach in the Maldives.

The coastline on the island is more rugged than other islands in the Maldives, with volcanic-like soil mixed with pebbles.

The island itself is small measuring only three-quarters of a mile wide by just under three miles long.

Answer: The first image shows Shoe Bay on Eilean Shona in Scotland while the second image shows Fuvahmulah Island’s beach in the Maldives.

The UK is home to some of the most beautiful seaside towns, but one stands out for a key reason

The UK has been so hot this week that I made three trips to the beach in seven days, despite not living particularly close to one. Still, an hour or so’s drive is a small price to pay when there’s a brilliant day or evening by the sea waiting for you.

I’m aware the pleasant weather won’t stick around, which explains my eagerness to spend as much time outdoors as I can. Of my several seaside trips, one location really caught my attention for one particular reason — the food.

Troon, roughly 45 minutes from my home city of Glasgow, proved the ideal spot to spend a warm evening as the heatwave drew to a close.

It’s been over six months since I last went to Troon, which was on a bitterly cold and snowy January day. This week’s outing couldn’t have been more different. After finishing work one evening, we hopped in the car and made our way down to the coastal town overlooking the Firth of Clyde, with one clear goal in mind.

Despite Scotland’s heatwave coming to a sudden halt during the day with a torrential thunderstorm, the sun managed to emerge once more as we strolled along the shoreline. Likely due to the earlier weather, it was pleasantly peaceful, with just a handful of people wandering about on the sand.

While it was lovely to be able to walk on the beach without the bitter wind battering us like last time, the stroll was fairly brief, as it was time to head up to the harbour to get some food. We finally managed to make it to The Wee Hurrie for dinner.

The Scottish fishing fleet had been tied up back in January so it hadn’t been open, which although was our own fault for not checking, still put a major dampener on the day — especially given the icy cold weather.

This award-winning chippy is renowned for its fresh seafood and its prime spot right on the harbour. And it was 100% worth the hype, being one of the best meals I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating.

The scampi was incredibly fresh, coated in a delicate batter that left me feeling neither bloated nor uncomfortable afterwards — a genuine rarity for a chip shop. Choosing just one dish was actually really hard, given how varied and imaginative the menu is.

Where else would you find fritto misto, noodles and lobster all on the same menu?

It arrived alongside a gorgeous tartare sauce and a wedge of lemon, generously seasoned with salt and vinegar. Despite being light and crispy, it was wonderfully filling and satisfying, and the portion sizes were spot on.

At £14.30, it was worth every single penny, and I genuinely can’t stop thinking about it.

It’s a takeaway so you can’t sit in, but loads of people were queuing up to order before taking it home in their cars. We ate standing up outside the shack, which I think says everything about how tasty it was.

The food may have been our main reason for heading to Troon that evening, but with the weather still pleasantly warm after we’d finished eating, a stroll down the high street seemed the perfect way to round off the night.

By this point it was around 7pm, so many of the smaller independent shops and cafes had shut up for the day, but the pubs appeared reasonably busy, with people popping in and out of takeaways, restaurants, shops or simply strolling about as we were.

If I hadn’t been driving, I would have definitely nipped into Lido on the high street for a couple of drinks, but sadly it wasn’t to be on this occasion.

It was a shorter visit than previously, but far more enjoyable thanks to the delicious food and the beautiful evening sunshine. Whether you’re in the area with a few hours to spare, or travelling from further away, Troon is a wonderful place to explore.

Scotland, who have played at each of the past two European Championships, booked their spot at a World Cup for the first time since 1998 in dramatic fashion with an unforgettable victory against Denmark at Hampden Park in November.

Backed by tens of thousands of fans who had travelled to the United States, John McGinn’s deflected strike against Haiti earned the country’s first win at a World Cup for 36 years.

That would be Scotland’s only goal of the tournament.

They lost to a second-minute strike by 2022 semi-finalists Morocco in their second match, so they entered their final group game against Brazil knowing a draw would probably be enough to send them through as one of the best third-placed teams.

However, first-half defensive errors would prove their undoing.

They once again conceded early when defender Scott McKenna was robbed of possession inside his own penalty area, gifting an opener to Vinicius Jr.

The Real Madrid forward was denied a second when the video assistant referee (VAR) deemed he had fouled Jack Hendry before rolling the ball past Angus Gunn, but just before half-time Scotland again gave the ball away near their own goal and Vinicius Jr nodded in at the back post to make it 2-0.

Matheus Cunha extended Brazil’s advantage after half-time and a late rally failed to yield a reply that would have improved Scotland’s goal difference.

“Over the three games you’re definitely looking at below-par performances,” said Willie Miller, who played at the 1982 and 1986 World Cups for Scotland.

“I keep looking back on the Denmark game [November’s 4-2 win to seal qualification] with those outstanding goals, but they didn’t get anywhere near those levels.”

The former defender described the lack of a top-class striker as “a major issue” and said he was “uncertain about the logic of a few selections”.

However, he did back Clarke by adding: “He got us there and that’s what the Scotland manager’s job is.

“He has introduced a real togetherness in the squad as well, which wasn’t always the case.”

With 81 matches under his belt, Clarke is Scotland’s longest-serving manager.

Support from the Scottish FA has been emphatic, with their coffers significantly enhanced by participation at three of the past four major finals.

Euro 2028 will be staged in Scotland, England, Wales, and the Republic of Ireland and it will be difficult for the co-hosts not to qualify.

“I’m sure he can go again over the next few years if he wants to,” Miller added of Clarke.

“The new contract was a positive step. I think it was the right thing to do.”

Scotland conceded soft, early goals in defeats by Morocco and Brazil, with former striker James McFadden saying: “The defending was certainly below the standard we’re used to and the errors were costly.

“I just feel the players could have shown more. We could have done better against Morocco in terms of having a go.

“But a lot of people think we should have had two penalties and a red card in that game, which is nothing to do with the manager and players.

“Against Brazil, we gave them two gifts.”

The 2026 World Cup in the United States, Canada and Mexico is well and truly under way with the group stages nearing a conclusion.

It is the biggest World Cup in history with 48 teams taking place.

Here’s a list of the games and where you can watch and listen to them in the UK.

From early on, we were looking at the game, yes, but also working out the mad significance of it all. We turned elsewhere to see what all of this meant in the grand scheme of things.

Before the games began on Wednesday, Scotland were sitting relatively pretty as second of the best third-placed teams in the tournament.

Bosnia-Herzegovina’s win over Qatar dropped Scotland to third. Brazil’s dominance dropped them further. Down and down they went, their buffer all but removed, their obsession about results elsewhere in the coming days multiplying as they went.

Back to Charlotte, North Carolina they’ll go on Thursday; battered and dazed, uncertain of their future in this tournament, if they have one.

As it stands, the predictor has them playing Mexico on Tuesday – a shot at redemption or another trip to a torture chamber?

That might turn on its head, of course. Other teams in the coming days will have plenty to say about this yet.

Scotland are sweating on a place in the last 32. That’s the no-man’s land they’re living in now, frantically looking at the respective fates of Senegal and Ecuador, Curacao and Cape Verde, Saudi Arabia and others.

There was a certain inevitably about it. Until Bolivia earlier this month, Scotland have never beaten South American opposition, never beaten Brazil in 10 attempts going back 50 years. They rallied and created moments but it was too little, too late.

First, Scott McKenna was caught on the ball by Bournemouth forward Rayan and Vinicius Jr skipped past Angus Gunn to score.

Gunn and full-back Nathan Patterson were then caught under a Bruno Guimaraes cross as Vinicius Jr nodded in his and Brazil’s second before half-time.

And Manchester United’s Mateus Cunha made it three after the break on a night where Scotland huffed and puffed, but were ultimately outclassed.

“We lose poor goals at poor times against a team that can punish you with quality,” McGinn told BBC Sport. “We had a few chances but we’ve got to wait now.

“The lads are gutted, we fell short on quality but we gave it absolutely everything. The lads are empty now. It’s unlikely [that we qualify] but we’ll wait and see.

“It’s a bit raw at the minute but we appreciate the support of the fans, we know it’s difficult to be there. Hopefully the journey is not over and if we have to go again, we will go again.”

Bystanders captured the moment police arrested a machete-weilding man, believed responsible for a suspected anti-Muslim stabbing rampage in Edinburgh. UK Prime Minister Keir Starmer has denounced the attacks as “absolutely appalling.”

T20 World Cup, Group 2, Headingley

England 200-5 (20 overs): Dunkley 57 (37), Capsey 40 (25); Gordon 2-30

Scotland 162-7 (20 overs): S Bryce 34 (24)

England won by 38 runs

Scorecard. Tables

England’s batting sparkled again as the hosts closed on a place in the T20 World Cup semi-finals with an 38-run victory over Scotland at Headingley.

Sophia Dunkley ensured injured captain Nat Sciver-Brunt was not missed by capitalising on three dropped catches in making 57 on her return to the side.

Alice Capsey stroked 40 and Heather Knight 25 but most impressive was a barnstorming unbroken partnership of 61 from just 21 balls from Freya Kemp and Dani Gibson.

Together they took England from 141-5 after 17 overs to 200-5 after 20 – with Kemp hitting an unbeaten 39 from 16 balls and Gibson an 11-ball 30 not out.

After an edgy chase over Ireland in their second match, this was more reminiscent of England’s performance on the opening night of the tournament when they piled up 219-1 against Sri Lanka.

The Kemp-Gibson pyrotechnics pushed the target beyond Scotland and, despite an admirable effort, they finished on 162-7 – their highest score batting second in T20 internationals.

A win in either of England’s last two matches, against West Indies on Wednesday or New Zealand next Saturday, will likely be enough to secure a top-two finish.

Scotland, who have a win and two defeats, play New Zealand on Tuesday.

June 20 (UPI) — Police arrested a man after stabbing five people in Edinburgh, Scotland, in suspected anti-Muslim attacks.

The man was allegedly roaming the streets of the city Friday night and stabbed five people and damaged a car and business. The attacks began near a mosque in the west of Edinburgh, where two men were injured. The Scottish Association of Mosques said two worshippers were attacked in a park after leaving the Broomhouse mosque.

Police said that five men in total, two of them 22 years old, and others ages 24, 27 and 39, suffered a range of injuries. Three of them were treated at a hospital, though none of the injuries was life-threatening.

A 36-year-old white man was arrested, and counter terrorism officers have joined local Police Scotland in an investigation.

Assistant Chief Constable Catriona Paton said in a statement that there is “no place for racism or faith-based hate in Scotland.”

Police got reports of attacks near shops in the west and north of the city, and said three other men were attacked in the Telford Road and Leith Walk areas. Police eventually confronted the man with a taser and arrested him, though they said the taser was never used.

“There is a profound sense of shock, alarm and anger within Muslim communities across Scotland today,” Omar Afzal, director of public affairs for the Scottish Association of Mosques, told The Scotsman. “These latest attacks are deeply disturbing. However, they do not exist in a vacuum. For years, Muslim communities have warned about the consequences of anti-Muslim hatred becoming normalized in public discourse. When prejudice is left unchallenged, it creates an environment in which some individuals feel emboldened to act on that hatred.”

Ismael Saibari scored the fastest goal of the World Cup 2026 so far after just 71 seconds as Morocco beat Scotland 1-0 to close in on a place in the knockout rounds.

Saibari scored in Morocco’s opening 1-1 draw with Brazil last weekend, and his clinical finish with just over a minute gone settled a hard-fought, physical contest at Boston Stadium on Friday.

A crowd of 64,146 fans turned up at the venue in Massachusetts, United States.

The 25-year-old, who was born in Spain and raised in Belgium, is reportedly on the brink of a $63m transfer from Dutch champions PSV Eindhoven to Bayern Munich.

The quality of his strike past goalkeeper Angus Gunn showed why he is attracting such interest, and it was telling that Scotland lacked the same quality in the opposition box — that helps explain why Morocco are ranked fifth in the world, and Scotland 40th.

With four points from two games, Morocco are now primed to advance to the last 32 as they aim to at least match their historic run to the semifinals in Qatar in 2022.

However, it was a sobering evening for Scotland and their army of fans who have taken over Boston during this World Cup, as their team never really tested Morocco goalkeeper Yassine Bounou.

The laboured 1-0 win over Haiti in their opening game at the same stadium last weekend — which was their first victory at a World Cup since 1990 — gave them a platform to build on and reason to believe they can progress beyond the group stage at a World Cup for the very first time.

Another win here would have secured progress from Group C, but their chances of going further remain up in the air going into their next match against Brazil in Miami next Wednesday.

Moroccan coach Mohamed Ouahbi went with an unchanged starting lineup here following the Brazil clash, but opposite number Steve Clarke made three changes.

Clarke sought to reinforce his defence, meaning striker Lawrence Shankland dropped out as defender Kieran Tierney came into the side to make a back five.

But that was of little use as Morocco went ahead practically from kickoff.

The assist came from Real Madrid’s Brahim Diaz, and Grant Hanley played Saibari onside as the latter latched onto the ball over the top, controlled it and rifled high into the net.

Morocco, who defeated Scotland 3-0 when the teams met at the 1998 World Cup, threatened to overrun their opponents every time they got forward but were wasteful, with Bilal El Khannouss squandering a good chance on 36 minutes.

Scotland were as stodgy in attack as they have been for a long time, and it took until first-half stoppage time for them to create anything dangerous.

That was a cross whipped in from the left by skipper Andy Robertson that John McGinn was unable to make anything of, and the opening period ended without Bounou needing to make a save.

Morocco hit the woodwork five minutes into the second half as Saibari met a cutback by El Khannouss, and his attempt was deflected onto the bar by Jack Hendry.

Moments later, Gunn made a fine stop to keep out an El Khannouss header from a corner taken by Hakimi, who was regularly booed by the crowd.

Morocco nevertheless seemed content to see the game out and soak up what Scotland could throw at them.

Ryan Christie fired over on 64 minutes after being teed up by Scott McTominay, who hit the side-netting late on, but a Scotland goal proved elusive.

Morocco face Haiti in Atlanta on Wednesday, while Scotland face Brazil in Miami.

Why was Achraf Hakimi booed?

Morocco’s captain Achraf Hakimi was named in the starting lineup hours after it was confirmed he must stand trial in France on rape charges.

Loud boos rang out from the Scottish fans when Hakimi’s name was read out and every time he touched the ball during the game.

The Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) defender said in a statement earlier in the day that he faced trial on a rape charge and welcomed the opportunity to put across his point of view.

Hakimi had appealed his referral to a criminal court.

French media reported earlier that the Versailles appeals court had rejected the appeal, paving the way for his trial in a criminal court at some point in the future.

“Today, a story that isn’t mine is being told at the expense of my family, my life, and above all, ⁠⁠the truth. Sometimes I feel like ⁠⁠I’ve become an easy target,” Hakimi wrote in a post on the social media platform X.

“I’ve been waiting for this trial since day one. And now I’m looking forward to it. Finally, I’ll be able to speak out.”

Clarke’s masterplan, so to speak, was playing Kieran Tierney ahead of Robertson on the left, two vastly experienced operators to deal with the threat of Hakimi and Brahim Diaz.

A risk, for sure. And so much for the thinking behind it. Just over a minute gone – Diaz assist, Ismael Saibari goal, the nightmare scenario come true.

The traffic cone guys weren’t letting such trifling issues dampen their day.

Everybody else had a haunted look about them, their noise and passion reduced to soft groans, the lusty pride they all displayed with another thumping rendition of Flower of Scotland now replaced with shrieks as Morocco ran amok.

Or threatened to run amok. Seventy seconds it took them to score. For much of the opening half they were like a cultured fighter, boxing the ears off an over-matched rival, bamboozling their punchbag with their movement before what felt like an inevitable knockout.

Scotland were on the ropes, covering up and praying that the punishment would stop. And minute by minute, it did.

Morocco’s intensity was wonderful for half an hour and they could have been two or three ahead by then, but they weren’t. They’re terrific footballers, very easy on the eye, but they’re not ruthless, not killers. Scotland’s resilience kept them in it.

When Morocco’s energy started to dissipate, it became a contest.

Scotland finished the opening half strongly, their confidence rising, those worried stares on the faces of their supporters giving way to blessed hope.

Scotland concede after 71 seconds and fall to a World Cup defeat against a classy Morocco, but their hopes of a historic knock-out place remain in their own hands with one group game to go.

MATCH REPORT: Scotland 0-1 Morocco

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England did not want to go through the play-offs but were given an unkind draw in the qualifying groups when they met world champions Spain.

It does mean, however, that Sarina Wiegman’s side are in a strong position for the play-offs and will fancy their chances with a kind trip to Greece in October.

They beat potential round two opponents Ukraine in both matches in the qualifying group stage, which will give them confidence too.

There is a tricky tie for Northern Ireland, who come up against a talented young squad from Portugal in round one. Portugal twice beat Northern Ireland in Euro 2025 qualifying.

Their task gets trickier if they make it through to round two with potential opponents Iceland proving to be difficult to break down in their matches against England this year.

Scotland are hoping to reach just their second Women’s World Cup finals having failed to qualify in 2023.

They performed well in this year’s qualifying group stages, including draws with Belgium that showed they can compete with Europe’s strongest teams.

They will need to produce their best in round two if they meet big-hitters Sweden, who have been semi-finalists in the past two Women’s World Cup finals.

Wales have never beaten a top-20 ranked nation in a competitive fixture and are likely to need to do so to qualify – and their away form needs improvement.

But Rhian Wilkinson’s side face familiar opponents in round one. They thrashed Albania 4-0 in their qualifying group so who says they can’t do it again?

Meanwhile, having performed superbly in qualifying, the Republic of Ireland have a tricky play-off route with established European opposition Belgium potentially waiting in round two.

First, Carly Ward’s side will have to navigate a 3,100-mile trip to Kazakhstan, against relatively unknown opposition.

One of my favourite recent photographs is of me (unusually), perched on the bonnet of our car, about to set off on a solo, two-week road trip from our Sussex home to the wilds of Scotland, taking in Eryri (Snowdonia), Lancashire, the Lake District and Yorkshire. I had no idea that the research trip I was about to embark on – for my book, which traces the story of British holidays over 400 years – was going to reveal my homeland as somewhere I barely knew.

As a southerner, it was the northern half of Britain that I needed to discover. I’d stitched together my route with visits to museums, archives and classic seaside resorts that had once blazed so brightly. I’d visited Cumbria before, but the Conwy coast, the Lancashire countryside, Blackpool, Morecambe, Scarborough? All these were unknowns.

My first stop was Eryri, where it turned out my hotel, the Royal Oak in Betws-y-Coed, had been welcoming artists such as JMW Turner since the late 18th century. Fifty years later, it became the hub of the country’s first artists’ colony, drawn here by the dramatic beauty of the dense, bottle-green swathes of the Gwydir Forest and the spectacular peaks of the Glyderau range and Moel Siabod.

Over coffee, hotel manager Katie Valentine told me about the artists who called the area home – David Cox, Henry Clarence Whaite and Thomas Collier among others – at least until Betws railway station opened in 1868. “At that point,” she said, “many moved to houses further up the valley, grumbling that the place was becoming flooded with tourists.” As I would discover on this journey, it seems overtourism is far from a contemporary travel trend.

From Eryri, it was a short hop to Llandudno, a beach town so pristine it felt a little like a Victorian theme park resort. “In some ways it is,” Judith Phillips, trustee of the Llandudno Museum, told me. “The family who built Llandudno in the mid-19th century – the Mostyns – still own much of it now, and control everything from what colours people can paint their hotels to what businesses are allowed on the promenade.”

The Llandudno Museum made plain that much of our history is not in the great city museums, but in libraries, archives and small museums on quiet high streets, often run by passionate volunteers with an encyclopaedic knowledge of their local heritage.

Driving from Llandudno up to Lancashire along the North Wales Expressway, I whipped in and out of tunnels, emerging to see great swathes of the cobalt-blue Irish Sea stretching to the horizon.

Further into my journey, I was pointed towards early editions of the very first guidebooks to the Lake District, written by Thomas West and William Wordsworth, at the Armitt Library in Ambleside; shown handwritten letters by Queen Victoria at Blair Castle (including her personal recipe for potato salad); and told wonderful stories of Wakes Week holidays in Blackpool by the dapper Richard Croisdale at Blackburn Museum – their longest-serving volunteer, at a sprightly 90 years old.

Blackburn’s grandiose Victorian museum and Bolton’s neoclassical town hall stand as legacies of the era when Lancashire towns were affluent manufacturing bases home to tens of thousands of factory workers. The Georgian streets of Richmond are like a mini Bath, but steeped in Yorkshire heritage. But perhaps nowhere confounded my expectations more than Blackpool.

Arriving on a Friday night, the promenade buzzed with lights and life; the illuminations blazing all the way to the tower, kids skipping along the seafront entirely unaware they had been brought to one of the most deprived towns in the country. “We are a town of extremes,” said Claire Smith, co-owner of the chic Number One South Beach B&B. “We have pockets of absolute joy next to complete caverns of woe. There’s no blending. It’s either amazing or awful.”

Claire and husband Mark shared stories of Blackpool in the 1970s, not least his coming back from the pub as a teenager to find his parents had let his bedroom – along with their own – to guests, leaving them to sleep in the lounge. This was the era when guests queued in their dressing gowns to use the bathrooms, landladies locked the doors between mealtimes, and peach Melba was the height of culinary flair.

“They were simpler times, people expected much less,” Claire told me, a little wistfully. “But I do think people were happier.” There’s still plenty of joy to be found, though. When I visit the Pleasure Beach as it opens on a Sunday morning, families are streaming in; the first coasters rattling skywards; a general air of giddy excitement that is a stark counterpoint to the rundown streets elsewhere in the town.

So many of my preconceptions were corrected or reversed: the elegant St George’s Hotel in Llandudno showed me that not all grand dame seaside hotels are faded or old-fashioned. And while we do love to run down our own seaside resorts, I saw beaches to rival anything the Med has to offer, from Scarborough’s South Bay to Morecambe’s vast, empty sandscapes.

Beyond the seaside, it was Scotland that really blew my mind. Following in the footsteps of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, who toured the Highlands and Lowlands for six weeks in 1803, I headed up the western flank of Loch Lomond, entirely unprepared for what I was about to discover. Dusk was falling as I drove across Rannoch Moor – a silent, pockmarked moonscape that seemed entirely bereft of life, save for a lone pair of car headlights, somewhere up ahead. And then, in the distance, great, hulking mountains began to rise up, guarding the entrance to Glen Coe. It is a landscape so forbidding that when I pulled up at the Three Sisters viewpoint, I was genuinely relieved to see another couple, so I didn’t have to stand alone among the ominous peaks.

Scotland had stories, too: from the spruce and redwood trees planted in Glen Coe by Lord Strathcona in the 1890s to make his Canadian wife feel at home, to Queen Victoria taking the first ever fly-and-flop (train-and-flop, perhaps more accurately) at Blair Castle in 1844. Her visit was hosted by the 6th Duke of Atholl, who promised the security of his own private army (and who had to move out of his own castle during the royal stay). It was the beginning of a royal love affair with Scotland that led to the purchase of Balmoral in 1852.

When I got home from the long road trip – 13 days and 1,600 miles later – my husband took the same photograph of me perched on the car. It had been more of an adventure than I could have ever imagined – to lands unknown on the island I call home.

The Great Escape: Britain’s 400-Year Love Affair with Holidays by Annabelle Thorpe (£18.99, DK Red) is available now. To support the Guardian, buy a copy from guardianbookshop.com for £17.09

After topscoring with the bat for Scotland, Kathryn Bryce makes an impact with the ball, taking a superb one-handed catch to remove Ireland’s Alana Dalzell for six in their opening match of the ICC Women’s T20 World Cup at Old Trafford.

FOLLOW LIVE: Impressive Scotland complete victory over Ireland

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BBC Sport Scotland called on the knowledge of 1998 World Cup squad members Darren Jackson and Paul Lambert, as well as the last player to captain Scotland at the women’s finals in 2019, Rachel Corsie, to enlighten and excite us.

All three said it was “surreal”.

Lambert and Corsie explained the build-up – the bit where the fans are frantically booking planes, trains and automobiles – as perhaps being the most “stressful” part of the process from qualifying.

“You’re like, I want to be in the best condition of my life,” said Corsie, who skippered Scotland in France seven years ago said.

“I don’t want to get hurt, I want to get selected, I want to be playing for my club, there’s so many things that you’re thinking and you just think, I just want us to get there.”

“It feels like endless build-up,” Lambert added.

“Then, when you’re selected, that’s when it really sinks in that you know the summer could be the greatest tournament for the national team. It’s the best tournament.”

For Jackson, who didn’t make his international debut until he was 28, said it wasn’t until he lined up in the Stade de France for the tournament opener against Brazil that things started to feel real.

“When you’re standing in the tunnel and the guy standing next to you is Ronaldo, reality kicks in,” he explained.

Add Rivaldo, Dunga, Roberto Carlos, Cafu and the rest and you’ve got a point, Darren. Gulp.

An overhead kick from Scott McTominay, a Lewis Ferguson corner that was going in until Lawrence Shankland helped it on its way, a curler to beat all curlers from Kieran Tierney and then a fourth from the other end of the earth – or the halfway line to be precise – from Kenny McLean.

It was the perfect night, a night that further reinforced the bond between these players, which is genuinely tight. That’s always said, but this group is extremely close, a club side in national team colours, a band of brothers who have each other’s back.

There was a collective swoon when news came through on Thursday that McTominay, the totem, had an iffy tummy, but he’s good now. The Napoli midfielder with the Midas Touch probably just waved his hand over his stomach and, hey presto, he was healed.

What’s absolutely fascinating about this game is the options that Clarke has and the way he’s talking about the utilisation of his bench, hinting that he might keep a heavy hitter in reserve.

On more than one occasion he’s suggested that the team that finishes the game might have to be as strong, or stronger, than the one that starts.

It’s inconceivable, for this game, that he’ll go away from his new approach of playing Shankland and Che Adams up front, so one of his star midfielders most probably won’t start.

Scotland are buoyed by the eight goals they scored in their last two games. There were caveats – Curacao had 10 men for much of it at Hampden and fell away to lose 4-1 and Bolivia were, well, not all that good.

But confidence is a valuable thing, no matter how you get it. Clarke, as is his wont, has been talking up the threat of Haiti, referring regularly to their size, their power and their athleticism.

In warm-up games, Haiti hammered New Zealand 4-0 before New Zealand lost just 1-0 to England soon after. That form line makes them a theat.

Haiti are a distant 83rd in the Fifa world rankings, but Clarke has been at pains to point out their strengths. One of those strengths is a mental fortitude that comes with representing a country that is riven by crisis and humanitarian disaster.

The capital, Port-au-Prince, is controlled by armed gangs – instability, hunger, killings, kidnappings and sexual violence is rife. Public services have collapsed. Thousands of schools have closed, 10% of the population have fled. The football team can’t play any games at home. Two years into his role as head coach, Sebastien Migne still hasn’t been able to set foot in Haiti.

That level of hardship could breed some amount of determination. Clarke knows it and you sense that his players know it, too.

Scotland have played 23 matches at World Cups and have won only four, a sobering stat when you set it alongside the memories of nightmares past, the loss to Costa Rica in 1990 chief among them.

So Clarke is taking nothing lightly. This is a must-win given the scale of what’s to come against Morocco and Brazil.

Nobody in Clarke’s camp is hiding from that. They have said repeatedly that they’re here to make history as the first Scotland team to make it through a group.

They have a vast travelling army with them and millions more at home, a strange amalgam of positivity and anxiety, belief and fear. All human emotion on the grandest stage.

Thrilling and terrifying. What a time to be alive.