I visited the tiny island off the coast of the UK with seaweed foraging, sauna visits and pub stays
GOBBLING up sandy scraps of seaweed from the beach floor certainly isn’t the norm for me on a coastal stroll.
But it was for the residents of Guernsey between the 12th and 16th Centuries. And it’s a tradition that’s now coming back into fashion.
Nutrient-packed seaweed, abounding all over Guernsey, is free for the picking and just one of the many ways the island benefits from being surrounded by super-clean waters in the Channel.
I joined Guernsey Seaweed on one of its foraging tours of Havelet Bay and learned the marine plants here are in big demand at the island’s fanciest restaurants.
The slippery green stuff features heavily on a sophisticated menu at Michelin-starred Vraic, woven into cocktails and also adding a punch to rich broths.
After feasting on some pepper dulse, dubbed the truffle of the sea, I can completely see why chefs love it so much. There’s nothing of the fishy taste you would expect.
Instead, I’m hit with a garlicky umami flavour.
The earthy and delicious taste, I’m told, is down to the warm temperature of the sea around the island, just 27 miles off France’s Normandy coast.
The Gulf Stream ensures the water here rarely dips below 8C in winter — which is why you’ll spot locals swimming year round.
Admittedly, even 13C felt like too much of a chill for me. But if you plan your trip well, you can ensure you combine a swim with a post-dip sauna session to warm up.
There are two mobile saunas on the island, Hot Haus and Rock Box, which can be booked online and are just a stone’s throw from the sea.
Rock Box, a converted, eucalyptus-infused horsebox, overlooks the Cobo Slipway in summer and features a huge window allowing those inside to soak up soothing coastal views while they sweat.
And sweat, I sure did. Conveniently, there are several watering cans, filled with icy water, positioned by the sauna door for guests to use in between ten to 15-minute stints in the heat.
The sauna was a treat that my limbs most definitely appreciated after a strenuous Pilates class earlier that morning.
Pilates instructor Lydia Cherry runs both Reformer and mat sessions at the Forme studio in St Andrews, for locals and holidaymakers alike.
Despite the moves seeming gentle, my abs were quivering within a matter of seconds as I was put through my paces.
If you prefer something a little more gentle, though, beachfront or paddleboard yoga are both popular choices for holidaymakers seeking a wellness fix.
That’s if you have enough strength left after tackling the island’s scenic coastal paths, though.
Guernsey is so small — around 24 square miles — that you can walk its coast in just a few days.
One of the more manageable treks — and beautiful — is the short 45-minute route from St Peter Port to Fermain Bay, combining fabulous coastal views with dense woodland that’s carpeted in bluebells during spring.
Reward your efforts afterwards with a tasty pint of local Rocquette cider — which uses some of that famed seaweed — at the Beach Cafe.
From my picnic table, perched just above the water, I could watch the foamy waves while listening to the birds overhead.
Make sure to order yourself a super-fresh crab sarnie, too, which comes loaded to the max and smothered in mayo. Delicious.
And that word can be used to describe the fare at many of the island’s restaurants.
Michelin-recommended Alba, in St Peter Port, in particular, strives to keep dishes local and serves up elegant sharing plates.
Its homemade tagliolini with Shetland mussels in a white wine and lemongrass sauce is an absolute steal at £15.
Wash it down with an Alba Tomatini, a classic martini with tomato twist (£11.50), and you’re in for a good night.
For a more casual bite, the Fleur du Jardin does classic pub grub, from fish-and-chips to bangers and mash.
It also has 14 boutique bedrooms upstairs that are as charming as the old-fashioned, stone-wall pub itself with its sea-themed decor.
The only thing that’s missing is a bit of seaweed.
GO: GUERNSEY
GETTING THERE: Aurigny flies from London City airport and London Gatwick to Guernsey from £62pp.
See aurigny.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Fleur du Jardin cost from £99 per night.
See fleurdujardin.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Seaweed foraging tours, £25, see guernseyseaweed.com.
