hunting

FORGET about home away from home, welcome to Rome away from Rome.

Millions of tourists visit Italy’s capital each year to marvel at the Colosseum, queue at other attractions and squeeze into the city’s packed squares.

But you can experience a slice of Roman history without the crowds and steep prices ­— in ancient Croatian city Pula.

On the southern tip of the Istrian Peninsula — comprised largely of Croatia but also Italy and Slovenia in the north — it is also a more peaceful alternative to the country’s party city, Split, and postcard-pretty Dubrovnik.

This gem on the Adriatic coast features heaps of history and fabulous food but moves at a gentle pace — and is under three hours from the UK.

The most obvious comparison between Rome and Pula is one remarkable building.

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Standing proudly in the latter’s city centre is the Pula Arena, one of the world’s largest and best-preserved Roman amphitheatres.

Built at the same time as the Colosseum — the daddy of all amphitheatres — it has a dramatically storied past.

Until the 5th Century, it was a place where Christians, criminals and slaves were executed and gladiators fought lions and bears.

In more recent years, it has hosted concerts by the likes of Robbie Williams and Dua Lipa — and was decked out in pink for a screening of the Barbie movie when that was released in 2023.

A day tour of Pula, just one of the many trips offered by Jet2 Experiences, will allow you to discover the city’s highlights.

As well as the amphitheatre, you will visit the Roman Forum, Temple of Augustus and Old Town, and sample ale and local charcuterie at the Kampanjola Brewery, home of Istria’s only organic beer.

The Istrian Peninsula is often compared to Tuscany in Italy because of its rolling hills, vineyards and medieval hilltop villages that feel a world away from Split’s busy beaches in summer.

But it is also home to a prized traditional delicacy — truffles.

Arriving in the remote hilltop town of Buzet, we were welcomed by a guide who owned, for my money, some of the world’s smartest dogs.

From a few months old, they have been trained to associate truffles with reward, and so learn an extraordinary ability to sniff out the forest fungi.

On our truffle hunt, we followed pooch Sky through the woods.

She stopped in her tracks and within moments was clawing at a patch of ground, nose covered in mud, before unearthing a large black truffle.

These finds do not look glamorous but are worth a fortune.

Black truffles can fetch more than £400 a kilo, and their rarer white counterparts up to five times that.

Our day ended in the best possible way with a generous, three-course truffle feast, also featuring cheese, salami, sweet treats and wine.

I tucked into a plate of fresh truffles shaved over scrambled eggs, as well as truffle-honey vanilla ice cream — all of it absolutely delicious.

Nature lovers are equally well catered for while visiting Pula.

A short boat ride from the coast awaits the Brijuni National Park, an archipelago once the summer retreat of former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito.

Down the years, the islands have also welcomed many a world leader and celebrity, as well as royalty including, in 1972, our own Queen Elizabeth II.

Today, visitors can explore Roman villas, churches and archaeological sites.

You will also meet some more surprising residents — a herd of zebras as well as Lanka, the only elephant in Croatia.

The islands are also home to one of the most ancient olive trees in the Mediterranean — estimated to be more than 1,600 years old, and still producing oil today.

Our base was the fabulous 5H Valamar Marea Suites hotel in the coastal town of Porec, 45 minutes north of Pula.

The family-friendly resort is an aquatic paradise with four outdoor pools including a stunning infinity one overlooking the sparkling Adriatic.

It also sits on the sandy Val Marea beach with water ideal for adults and children to enjoy.

The hotel’s ultra-modern, spacious suites come with their own balconies, and direct access on to the beach means you can quickly unwind after spending a day chasing dogs through the forest and snaffling truffles.

The hotel’s Maro Club is a kids’ facility offering fun tailored to different ages and featuring soft play and multimedia game rooms, as well as evening entertainment and free soft drinks and ice cream.

The hotel buffet promises a 5H experience for lunch and dinner, with a massive variety of options and unlimited ice cream to cool down after time in the sun.

One of the standout features of the hotel, though, is its location.

A scenic waterfront promenade links the hotel to Porec’s beautiful old town.

Cobbled streets are alive with ice-cream parlours and gift shops — and in one of these I picked up a bobblehead of Croatia footballing legend Luka Modric.

If you really want to push the boat out, you can even walk from the hotel to the Porec seafront — and from there take a catamaran to Venice.

But Croatia’s treasures might well mean you are happy to miss the boat — and just chill out right where you are.

For 10 days, the center of the cinematic universe is the Toronto International Film Festival, whose closest geographical landmark is currently a ludicrous controversy.

“Welcome to TIFF and welcome to the beautiful shore of — say it with me — Lake Ontario,” festival CEO Cameron Bailey said on opening night as he introduced “Being Heumann,” director Sian Heder’s crowd-pleasing follow-up to her best picture Oscar-winner “CODA.”

The crowd said it back. Google Maps, however, insists that the festival is actually a 15-minute stroll to Lake America. I’ve yet to hear a single person call it that without an eyeroll.

What’s in a name? Last year in the spirit of patriotism, my favorite Toronto coffee shop taped over the menu listing for its Americano to re-dub it a Canadiano. This fall, the sign has returned to Americano. Taking a pause from politics, I ordered a flat white.

Yet, the festival’s programmers seem to be decentralizing their attention-hogging neighbors to the south. Typically, TIFF is a launch pad for awards contenders. But there are fewer high profile Hollywood filmmakers this year than usual — which was also the case in Cannes. Perhaps these international festivals are testing their own waters to see if they’re obliged to invite Americans to their party.

Instead, the Toronto line-up boasts pointed films about fascism. On its surface, Michaël R. Roskam’s “Le Faux Soir” is a procedural account of how a network of rebels in occupied Belgium published its own parody issue of a pro-Nazi newspaper on the 25th anniversary of Armistice Day in 1943. Most of the script’s energy goes to talking about typesetting and rotary press flongs, but right before the end credits roll, “Le Faux Soir” blurts out its timeliness about combating Le Fox News with comedy. Metaphorically alluding to the satirical newspaper “The Onion,” the narrator says that to pull off this operation, the team had to stick together like layers of an onion: “Never forget, onion is strength.”

Plenty of local comedies abound, including “The Stunt Driver” by Michael Dowse (“Goon”), an energetic biopic about Ken “The Mad Canadian” Carter, the ’70s speedster who vowed to vault across the mile-wide river between Ottawa and New York in a rocket-powered Lincoln Continental. The site of Carter’s jump is four hours away from the fest, although at his car’s top speed of 280 mph, you could get there in less than one. Safer just to enjoy Jay Baruchel’s funny and endearing portrait of a reckless risk-taker who hates being called a daredevil as much as he resents Ben Foster’s Evel Knievel attempting to give him some advice. “Canadians are God’s chosen people,” Carter growls defiantly. “The last thing we need is a Yankee doodle dandy telling us how to do our jobs.”

It’s also possible that this year’s lack of big films — unlike 2025’s “Frankenstein,” “The Smashing Machine” and “Wake Up Dead Man: A Knives Out Mystery” — is just a reflection of the industry’s changing tides. Two of the buzziest guests at this year’s fest have been Inde Navarrette of the micro-budget horror hit “Obsession,” which premiered at last year’s TIFF, and British Columbia-born Hudson Williams of the TV hockey romance “Heated Rivalry.” Twelve months ago, both actors were anonymous Gen Z-ers who could have easily popped into Tim Hortons for a maple-glazed donut without causing a stir. Now they’re stars.

Personally, I’m all for fresh talent. Audiences and critics alike are bored of film executives clinging to the same proven names and proven plots as tightly as worry beads. Yes, I’m hoping to see some Oscar contenders while I’m here and have my fingers crossed for a few movies I’ll be seeing shortly. But for the sake of filmgoing at large, I’d be more thrilled to spot another under-the-radar “Obsession.”

So far, I haven’t found one. However, I have seen ingenuity made for peanuts, like Jenna Cato Bass’ “Future Tense,” a South African sci-fi drama about a travel service that allows the wealthy to blip back to the 1600s to hot tub under the clear skies before the land was ruined by centuries of trash, trade and colonization. Mismatched new couple Tara and Lwando (Kristen Raath and Lawrence Maleka) — she’s white and sunny, he’s Black and snide — take a blistering vacation that their relationship might not survive.

The script gets screwy in the last act, but Bass proves she can pull off a bold time travel premise using only tastefully bland décor, gorgeous nature footage and a couple of menacing brutes with guns. As a bonus, Raath, her lead, has the spunk, charm and smile of Karen Allen, giving a breakout performance that’s such a delight that you could almost swear the “Raiders of the Lost Ark” ingenue had leapt back four decades to star in the film.

An image from “Voices,” a musical drama set in the 1960s.

(TIFF)

While we’re talking about pivotal moments in personal histories, nine years ago Deanté Gray was a rookie wide receiver for the Houston Texans. He tore his ACL in practice and, after muscling through that disappointment, is now a first-time feature director with “Voices,” a lean and loud musical-thriller about thwarted dreams. Set in one tatty motel room in 1967 Detroit, “Voices” is a vicious flick about rising two soul acts hellbent on getting on stage that night to impress Motown Records’ Barry Gordy.

Technically, only the Harmony Brothers, Bubbles and Melvin (Joe Maye and Jamal R. Averett), are booked to play the gig. But a fame-hungry bellboy, Jordan (Francis C. Edemobi), and his cousin Derrick (Ezekiel Ajeigbe) hatch an impulsive, half-baked plan to perform in their rivals’ place. Egged on by Derrick’s ambitious girlfriend Mia (Raél Ba), who’s angling to be the duo’s opening act, this bad idea crescendos with a half-dozen original songs — and a body count.

The sound design of “Voices” is raw and the rumored $50,000 budget so strapped that minor period piece inconsistencies like cheap plastic trash cans sneak into the frame. Who cares? Sam Buckner III and Charlie T. Savage’s smart and surprising screenplay is crowded with scenes that let its cast shine. Someone — ideally, several people — in here will wind up getting their own major break.

Admittedly, I’m biased. Morbid musicals are one of my favorite micro-genres, from “Little Shop of Horrors” and “All That Jazz” to “A Star Is Born” and “Cabaret.” (If you haven’t seen Steve Martin’s 1981 Depression-era hoofer “Pennies From Heaven,” do that this week.)

Add Theo Rhys’ “Stuffed” to that list. Jodie Comer (“Killing Eve”) plays a goth taxidermist; Harry Melling (“Pillion”) is a lonely man terrified of dying, buried and forgotten. Can she convince the sad sack to kill himself now to become a piece of her permanent collection?

The plot alone gives you the shivers, nodding to predatory internet meet-ups and that volatile mix of victimization and egomania that causes people to hurt themselves and/or others. Dark as the story is, though, co-writer Joss Holden-Rea’s tunes are stunners with limber melodies and creatively off-kilter lyrics. “My past is still before me,” Melling belts, picturing himself proudly mounted in a velvet suit and bronze plaque.

“Stuffed” isn’t for everyone. But my fellow sickos are going to love this bleak and lovely tragicomedy once it sets sail from these shores (whatever they’re called by then) to a theater near you.