hiking

Explore Northeast L.A. via this 23-mile urban hiking trail

I was trying to discern whether I’d made a wrong turn when I heard a loud whoosh next to me. Somehow, I’d missed the red-tailed hawk perched on a small tree, watching me from an arm’s length away.

That was one of many delightful surprises I encountered as I developed a 6.7-mile urban hike that I will share in this edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter.

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Back in May, I published a 13.5-mile urban hike (see map) that connects trails along the Arroyo Seco and in Elephant Hill Open Space, Ascot Hills, Lincoln Park, Flat Top Park and Ernest E. Debs Park. I wanted to celebrate our local hillsides but also showcase natural areas that remain under threat of development.

I have wanted to expand the route ever since I published it. I got motivated, though, when I saw that the Mountains Recreation and Conservation Authority, or MRCA, will receive a $200,000 grant in Proposition 4 money to develop a trail connecting open spaces in Northeast L.A.

MRCA will consider how to connect Elephant Hill Open Space with other land that it owns and manages, including Elyria Canyon and Rainbow Canyon, along with parks and open spaces owned by other public agencies.

A hillside dotted with single family home, apartments and trees with a mountain range in the background.

The view from Kite Hill, a high point in Mount Washington, from near North Avenue 37.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“We’ve been thinking about connectivity in Northeast L.A. for a while, the idea being that we connect the protected hilltops and canyons creating access to the Arroyo Seco, which ties up to the Angeles National Forest and down to the L.A. River,” said Sarah Kevorkian, deputy chief of wildfire resilience at MRCA, noting that there’s great energy and momentum built by community members who want to see their neighborhood open spaces protected.

I am eager to see what MRCA and its partners develop. Based on what I’ve experienced, urban hiking trails can lead to better connection among neighbors and a deeper appreciation for nature nearest to us. In the interim, I developed the trail below that envisions what a regional connector trail could look like.

The total extension to the River to the Hilltops route is about 9.4 miles when you include the three “connector” trails that I indicate via a dotted blue line on the map. In total, the full route is now about 23 miles. Below, I explain the heart of the extension through Cypress Park and Mount Washington, which is about 6.7 miles without the connectors, including the two that would take you to the larger original trail. I made this route in a “Choose Your Own Adventure” style, hoping to inspire folks to (legally!) explore their city, hence the flexibility (and complications in explaining mileage).

Some quick logistics before I dive into the route:

  • I developed the route using CalTopo, an online mapping software with a desktop site and mobile app. You can download the CalTopo app onto your phone and follow the route there; you can also download the trail from CalTopo to use on your Garmin or other device. I also uploaded it to my AllTrails profile.
  • In May, I dubbed the original trail “River to the Hilltops” in CalTopo and on AllTrails. Afterward, a reader suggested “Jewel Necklace” as a name. What do you think?
  • I haven’t marked everywhere you can find a restroom or water, but will try to add those as time allows. Please plan accordingly, as some stretches run through neighborhoods or open spaces where there isn’t much nearby.
  • There is no single place to start this route, although this newsletter will focus on the latest extension. You can start and stop this route in several spots though.
  • Trail access and conditions can change. Please follow all posted signage (and contact me if you encounter major issues).
  • This route travels through several neighborhoods. Please refrain from using Bluetooth speakers and anything else that would be disruptive to residents.
  • There are several places along the route where you will walk in the street of a neighborhood because it lacks sidewalks; please use caution!
  • At several junctures along the suggested route, you will have an option to take a different path that will essentially get you to the same place. Do what’s best for you, and most important: Have fun, be safe and don’t trespass!
A raptor with a dark orange-red tail and brown, white and black wing feathers flies overhead toward a tree.

A red-tailed hawk flies over Bob Scholfield Park in Mount Washington.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Now let’s talk more about the route (full map here).

To begin this extension into the neighborhoods of Mount Washington and, briefly, Cypress Park, I started at the Lincoln/Cypress Metro station off the A Line (previously, and forever in our hearts, the Gold Line). The station has a series of stairs and ramps that you can take down to West Avenue 26, which borders the station on its eastern-ish side.

You’ll quickly turn right (or northeast) onto Lacy Street, passing Lacy Street Neighborhood Park. I chose this option because, as you’ll see after about a quarter of a mile on Lacy, it leads to a pedestrian bridge.

A green metal fence with several vertical bars with spikes on top casting shadows on a gray sidewalk.

A pedestrian path that leads to a bridge taking walkers and hikers over the 110 Freeway.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

It is not a well-marked or particularly welcoming pedestrian bridge, but it exists nonetheless. You’ll see a narrow walkway lined with a green metal fence topped with spikes and, later, razor wire. Did I mention it’s not terribly welcoming?

Head over the 110 Freeway via this bridge, and turn right onto Arroyo Seco Avenue and then soon left on Amabel Street. But appreciate this little jaunt, as it’s the last bit of flat walking for a bit.

A concrete and gray metal bridge with a green fence on its side and top

A pedestrian bridge over the 110 Freeway near Cypress Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Cross over North Figueroa Street, and trudge up the hill before you, which has an average grade of about 15%. You’ll pass a neighborhood sign for Mount Washington as you bear left on Isabel Street before making a quick right (north) turn onto Glenalbyn Drive. Continue northeast onto Beech Street and feel as amazed as I was when it becomes a dirt path.

As I trotted through here, I enjoyed watching a kettle of turkey vultures soaring high above the homes perched on the hillside, looking for a fine carrion brunch.

Rather than continuing on the dirt path that heads southeast, I headed up Montalvo Street. Be careful here, as there is no sidewalk. I headed north onto Andalusia Street, or Avenue on some maps, and then further northwest onto West Avenue 37.

A paved road with a open gate and a palm tree blocking the sun.

A gate was installed on West Avenue 37 in the late 1980s to block rowdy visitors from driving to and partying on Kite Hill in Mount Washington. The route remains open to pedestrians.

You’ll soon arrive at Kite Hill, which The Times described in 1988 as “a scenic Mt. Washington location popular with kite-flyers by day and partying teenagers by night.”

The rambunctious youths were so noisy, L.A. City Council spent $1,200 — about $3,500 in today’s money — to install gates to prevent vehicle traffic. The route remains open to pedestrians.

“It’s like the Hollywood Bowl up there, but it goes on all night,” resident Bob Cummings, a real estate agent who had lived on Mount Washington for 18 years, told The Times in 1988. “It’s like a cancer that started. We’re asking for the city’s surgeons to cut it out.”

When I visited Monday, I saw no evidence of kites or parties, but I did appreciate the glorious views of our local hillsides and San Gabriel Mountains.

One perk of walking the Mount Washington leg of the route is the Halloween decor you'll spy along the way.

One perk of walking the Mount Washington leg of the route is the Halloween decor you’ll spy along the way.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

At the juncture of West Avenue 37 and San Rafael Avenue, you have two options in terms of the route I’ve charted out: You can continue northwest on West Avenue 37, where you’ll quickly be frolicking in Elyria Canyon, or you can take San Rafael Avenue and a short winding path down to Rainbow Canyon, which is also lovely.

Although I designed this leg of the River to the Hilltops route to start at the Lincoln/Cypress Metro stop and end at the Southwest Museum Metro station, you can also turn it into a loop, as you’ll see on the map.

For the purposes of this newsletter, I’m going to explain the route via the first option, continuing northwest on West Avenue 37 and then right (or northwest) onto Killarney Avenue for about 400 feet until you turn right onto some wooden, dirt-covered steps. You’ve reached Elyria Canyon Park!

A long straight set of dirt-covered brown wood stairs leading down past brown earth and leafy green trees.

Wooden stairs lead down into Elyria Canyon Park, where hikers will find several species of native shrubs and trees.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Be mindful as you take the steps, as the loose dirt can be slippery. You will have lovely views of L.A. and its landscapes as you meander past native shrubs and trees, including black sage, toyon and wild cucumber. This 35-acre park “boasts one of the finest examples of California black walnut woodland in Southern California,” according to the Mountains Recreation and Conservation Authority, which manages the land.

That’s one reason that a 1996 Times story dubbed this park “a living example of the Los Angeles of 200 years ago.”

There are multiple routes, and I won’t discourage you from exploring beyond what I’ve mapped out, which from the map, you can see is a quick loop, passing through the park (including Akuutet Learning Nursery and the surrounding neighborhood. If you find yourself needing a snack break, you’re in luck. (I will admit that I wanted the same while in Elyria Canyon and took a short walk over to Little Barn Coffee House, one of my favorite spots in L.A.)

A narrow dirt path passes through dry brown grasses toward a tree-lined hillside.

The path through Elyria Canyon travels through the 35-acre park that features a California black walnut woodland.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

After the loop, you’ll head out of the canyon onto Elyria Drive and then make a left back onto San Rafael Avenue, which you’ll take for about a third of a mile. Continue north past San Rafael Avenue and Danforth Drive onto Sea View Avenue. In about a third of a mile, Sea View will transform into a dirt path as you enter Bob Scholfield Park (per the name etched into a rock under a tree).

Two red-tailed hawks flew overhead as I entered this charming stretch of the walk. I chatted with another hiker and petted his Great Pyrenees dog, as I grew up with the breed and have a soft spot for these giant fluffy goobers.

After following this dirt path as it curves around, you will return to a paved Sea View Drive. Head southeast, and you’ll quickly find yourself at Moon Canyon Park.

Trees send spindly shadows onto a narrow dirt path.

Moon Canyon Park in L.A.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Developers had wanted to construct 18 homes and a parking lot in this 4.5-acre canyon, but the L.A. City Council instead set aside $550,000 to preserve it, according to a 2003 Times story.

“I couldn’t be happier because the canyon will be left open,” resident Sharon Roesler, a member of a group opposing developing the canyon, said at the time. “We don’t have enough of these places to go to in Los Angeles.” (If you want to learn more about restoration efforts here, you can visit the Friends of Moon Canyon website, which is working to restore the canyon.)

You will walk southeast down a pleasant dirt path through the canyon, noticing those restoration efforts, before you hit pavement for just a moment and then immediately bear right onto West Pheasant Drive, another dirt path.

A vintage blue and white van sits near a curve in a narrow dirt path surrounded in short trees.

A Chevy van parked ahead on the trail.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I was enjoying my hike when I followed the bend of West Pheasant Drive and noticed a van parked ahead. Now, I’ve seen enough horror movies that I quickly started to write the opening scene to my demise.

EXT. DIRT HIKING TRAIL

“JAC, a well-meaning but unfortunately oblivious hiker, spots a vintage camper van on the trail. They have no idea what lurks ahead.”

Thankfully, there was nothing other than a funky DIY project lurking in the distance. I approached the van to find a cardboard sign attached (which, again, sounds creepier than it was).

“The process is as WiLD as the circumstances!” it read. “This van is unable to leave the road (you may have noticed 🙂 ) so we are resituating it to optimize space (something special, incoming!).”

A narrow dirt path through a steep hillside with trees.

A narrow dirt path called West Pheasant Drive on some maps.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

After you pass the van art project, you’ll soon reach a nest of streets, as each has a bird name. You will turn right from West Pheasant onto Quail Drive and then quickly left onto Dove Drive. Follow Dove Drive southeast and quickly take a hard right (northwest) onto Glenalbyn Drive, followed by a hard left (southeast) onto Mavis Drive and then soon a right on Frontenac Avenue, then left on West Avenue 46 to head into the park area around the Carlin G. Smith Recreation Center.

You’ll pass through a gate and meander down the path, with an optional side quest to have a friend push you on the tire swing. After shenanigans, walk through the basketball court to where the path continues in the court’s southeast corner.

This route, when I traversed it, was loose and narrow. If it feels too sketchy, take the road or use a trekking pole if you’ve brought one. No reason to turn an ankle after you’ve had an otherwise splendid day!

At the end of this rustic route, take West Avenue 45 down to the Rainbow Canyon Test Plot, a publicly owned area where volunteers are readily restoring the canyon with native plants and shrubs. There is a pleasant little trail from the test plot that goes through the canyon. You will take it up to West Avenue 44.

A metal band on a wooden utility pole where someone has written in black ink, "You are the land."

A previous walker left a message on a utility pole to remind us of one reason we hike.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From here, you can either use the connector trail I’ve mapped out or head down West Avenue 44 to Marmion Way and the Southwest Museum Metro stop.

That is the end of the Mount Washington trail extension, but doesn’t have to be the end of your day. If you’re feeling adventurous, I have mapped out a connector route through Sycamore Grove Park that will take you to the Arroyo Seco and Debs Park — and beyond that!

The total route now includes about 23 miles of urban hiking. Where should I extend the route next? I’d love your feedback on how to connect our public lands.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

A canyon full of varying sized boulders with a backdrop of pine and evergreen mountains.

The Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area sits near the San Gabriel Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Be with the bats near Pearblossom
L.A. County Parks and Recreation will host Bat Weekend on Saturday and Sunday, from 4 to 7 p.m. both days, at the Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area near Pearblossom. Guests can participate in crafts and a night walk and visit educational booths. Learn more at the park’s Instagram page.

2. Seek out scares in Culver City
Walk ‘n Rollers will host a Halloween-themed bike ride from 5:30 to 8 p.m. Sunday in Culver City. Cyclists will travel five miles on city streets and bike paths, exploring the best Halloween decor in the area. Riders will meet at Village Well Books + Coffee. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Blend science and the spooky in Orange
SoCal Science Hikes will host a Halloween-themed evening hike from 6 to 9 p.m. Saturday through Irvine Regional Park in Orange. Participants will first try to spot diurnal animals as they hike 2.5 miles, and then after, meet at a faux campfire for ghost stories. Costumes welcome, as long as you can hike in them. Register at eventbrite.com.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A cyclist in a bike helmet looks through a magnifying device to spot birds near a body of water surrounded golden grass.

Finley Kilgo pauses during a birdwatching bike ride through the Arcata Marsh and Wildlife Sanctuary at the northern end of the Humboldt Bay Trail. The trail could eventually become part of the Great Redwood Trail.

(Andrew Cullen / For The Times)

Advocates of the Great Redwood Trail, a proposed 307-mile route that follows defunct railroad lines, say the route could become as epic a bucket-list trip as other great multi-day scenic trails. But at what cost? Times staff writer Lila Seidman spoke to Perry Lincoln, a member of the Wailaki Tribe, who said he and other Indigenous people in the area have been left out of the planning process for a hiking trail that cuts through their ancestral land. “We’re barely getting access to these areas ourselves, but we’re going to allow outside communities to have full access to these places?” Lincoln’s daughter Tisanche Warren said. “That doesn’t seem fair.” About 40% of the trail is complete, with major efforts planned to clean up railroad pollution and restore fish habitat. The Kinest’e Community Coalition, composed of Lincoln and other tribal members and their allies, continues its fight to not only have a say in the project but also to reroute the trail to protect sacred sites, including graves.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Are you interested in getting into mountain biking? Or do you want to find a community of mountain bikers? The California Mountain Biking Coalition will host Rally for the Trails, a gathering of the Southern California cycling and trails community from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Friday at the Cub House in San Marino. You’ll learn from guest speakers, watch short films and learn about local ride events. Plus, you can meet volunteers from several local outdoors groups. Sounds like a great way to meet new pals!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Spa bliss in the Alps: hot springs and hiking in the shadow of Mont Blanc | Spa breaks

Mont Blanc is hiding behind the clouds, but the Aiguille du Midi spears the sky above a mountainside ablaze with russet, gold and tawny tones. The maples flare red; rowan trees are dusted with crimson berries.

Our little group has trundled up to Mont Lachat station (altitude: 2,115 metres) on the Tramway du Mont Blanc, the century-old cog railway that climbs improbably steep slopes from the French alpine town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains. Operational since 1909, the railway was once intended to reach the 4,809-metre summit of Mont Blanc, but war, glacial terrain and waning funds put an end to that ambition. But even from Mont Lachat, the view is a showstopper. On one side, the Bionnassay Glacier slips scenically down the slope, a buzzard soaring over the milky-green glacial lake at its base, while on the other the Chamonix valley basks in soft autumnal sunshine.

Autumn is golden season in the Alps, when you can find quieter hiking trails, lower prices and air crisp enough to stir the senses without nipping your fingers. Once focused purely on winter sports, the region’s resorts have spent years building up their summer credentials to offer hiking and biking through flower-strewn meadows. Now they’re marketing their shoulder season, too, to meet a growing demand for off-peak escapes.

The little spa town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, 50 minutes from Geneva and sandwiched between its glitzier neighbours Chamonix and Megève, is perfectly placed to take advantage of this trend. Unlike many resorts, the town of 5,800 doesn’t fall silent once the snow (or summer crowds) melts away, in large part thanks to its thermal waters, which were discovered at the beginning of the 19th century.

A year-round gondola called Le Valléen now links the train station in the village of Le Fayet, farther down the slope where the thermal spa is located, to Saint-Gervais proper. Opened in late 2024, it means you can arrive by rail from London via Paris and reach the heart of the resort without needing a car. “If you go to Megève in the shoulder season there’s no one there,” says long-serving mayor Jean-Marc Peillex. “That’s not the case here. The secret is that instead of thinking about tourists, you think about the people who live here. Then the tourists will be happy too.”

A gondola heads up Aiguille du Midi. Photograph: KI Photography/Alamy

Saint-Gervais (850 metres) may lack Megève’s polish but it has its own quiet charm: a medieval fortified house, a 17th-century church with geometric stained glass windows, elegant belle époque buildings near the spa and a thriving market every Thursday. Several excellent restaurants stay open year round, and our hotel, the chocolate-box Coeur des Neiges, offers rooms at less than half the summer or winter rate, making it an ideal base for autumnal exploring.

From here we take the Mont Blanc tramway one stop to Motivon, at 1,400 metres, then hike for an hour without seeing another soul; the only sound is the gentle clanging of cowbells. Our destination is the Distillerie Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc, one of Europe’s highest microdistilleries at 1,365m. It’s actually set in a converted donkey shed with windows framing pine forests and plunging valleys, shelves fashioned from old skis and two gleaming copper distillation stills.

This is where Scotsman James Abbott, kilt and all, produces some 450 bottles a year of single malt whisky (in a Speyside style), along with vodka, the traditional herbal liqueur génépi and a superb mountain gin infused with ingredients such as blueberries and wild herbs from the nearby slopes.

The Tramway du Mont Blanc, the century-old cog railway that climbs ‘improbably steep slopes’. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

“The locals noticed that when I went to parties, I took whisky, not wine,” James laughs. “They said: ‘Why don’t you make your own – you drink enough of it.’” It turns out he does it rather well: the whisky sells for €95, the gin for €50, and both go down beautifully after a day in the mountain air before we hop back on the tramway.

Although the tramway stops running from the end of September, there’s no shortage of scenic hiking trails fanning straight out from town which are accessible later in the year, plus a free, year-round bus service linking the villages that make up the commune of St-Gervais. We’re due to take it the next morning for a walk from Saint-Nicolas-de-Véroce, whose baroque church is resplendent with blue-and-gold interiors and frescoed ceilings, but a heavy rainstorm postpones our plans.

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That’s not a problem when just down the road (or a free cog lift ride down the mountainside) are Les Thermes de Saint-Gervais, which have been soothing weary bodies since 1806, when notary Joseph-Marie Gontard discovered the springs. The mineral-rich waters, packed with sulphur, magnesium, calcium and zinc, bubble up from underground at 39C, feeding a three‑hour wellness circuit.

We drift between pools of different temperatures, move lazily from sauna to steam room, enjoy the rainforest spa and wallow outdoors as jets of water pummel our backs while the gondola glides silently overhead. Who cares about the rain?

Les Thermes de Saint-Gervais. Photograph: Leblanc Catherine/Alamy

By the time we emerge, the storm has cleared, so we continue to Saint-Nicolas. From here, a steep two‑hour trail winds up to the Refuge du Mont-Joly, a century-old wooden inn that smells of woodsmoke and melting cheese. Normally there are sweeping views of Mont Blanc from the terrace, but today the peaks are shrouded in cloud.

We might not be able to see the mountains but we can taste their produce, notably in the enormous portion of blueberry tart that follows a tartiflette big enough to satisfy a sumo wrestler. As I tuck in, snow begins to fall. By morning it will be gone, melted by the late-summer sun. But now it lies thick and soft outside, turning the world white, as if the Ice Queen from Narnia might step through the door at any moment. That’s autumn in the Alps for you.

The trip was provided by the Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc tourist board. Doubles at the Coeur des Neiges from €108 room-only, or from €76 room-only at Plan B at Le Fayet. The Refuge du Mont-Joly is closed from the end of March to late May, and from November to mid-December.

The Tramway du Mont Blanc now stops at the Nid d’Aigle lookout (2,380 metres), after the line was extended in July

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In the footsteps of Wales’s heroic rebel prince: hiking Glyndŵr’s Way | Walking

Between the treetops, I can see the towers of a distant mist-shrouded castle. Is it possible I could make contact with the spirit of the great Welsh hero Owain Glyndŵr so soon, at the very start of our hike? We are not even on the actual trail of Glyndŵr’s Way. I’ve had to make a detour to find accommodation that takes dogs, as Stevie the terrier is with me. The Castle Inn at Knucklas is a mile off the route, and two miles or so from the pretty border town of Knighton – where the 135-mile (217km) Glyndŵr’s Way officially begins.

The towers slide away behind trees and a railway viaduct emerges. The medieval castle ruins, it turns out, are believed to have been plundered to build the viaduct in the 1860s, and the builders dropped in a couple of crenelated towers to honour the origins of the stone. I fear this may be an early omen: the spirit of Glyndŵr will be as elusive as the man himself was in his lifetime.

After his great rebellion of 1400 devolved into a murderous guerrilla campaign, the last Welsh prince of Wales simply disappeared. His English adversaries thought he had supernatural powers. Writing two centuries after the events, Shakespeare has Glyndŵr declare (under the anglicised name Owen Glendower) in Henry IV: Part I that “the earth did shake when I was born” and “I can call spirits from the vasty deep”. The last known sighting was in about 1819, when William Blake saw him in a vision and sketched his gaunt head. Since then, nothing. If he’s been hard to pin down for six centuries, what chance now?

Welsh rebel leader Owain Glyndŵr seen in battle in a painting by AC Michael. Photograph: Lordprice Collection/Alamy

I plan to cover the 75-mile southern section of the national trail’s great horseshoe across mid-Wales, starting with a late afternoon two-mile warm-up from Knighton station up to Knucklas. On our first full day of walking, we head south out of Knucklas and soon reconnect with the main path. The hills are bone dry, lying like dead giants across our route, defended by armies of sheep. Stevie is nonchalant. He was born near Rhayader and is good friends with a tup called Patrick. Nevertheless, I keep him on a tight leash.

The rebellion started with a land theft, an English lord helping himself to some of Glyndŵr’s hectares, a personal feud that laid bare a vast hinterland of Welsh disgruntlement. Men flooded back from England to join Glyndŵr. Edward I’s great fortress at Conwy was captured; a battle near Knighton was won. It was all going well until the teenage son of Henry IV (the future Henry V) was put in charge of the English forces. Not for the first time, British history turned on an arrow: this one burying itself six inches into the young Henry’s skull at the Battle of Shrewsbury. He survived. The rebellion faltered.

It is coming over Bailey Hill that Stevie gets the first hint of danger. A flock of sturdy old ewes spot him and form a tight huddle, a testudo formation, to slink up behind us. Stevie turns and does a comedy backwards leap of surprise. The ewes stamp their feet. Stevie hides behind a tussock. The ewes creep forward. I pull him through a gate. He has not barked or rushed at them. He has done well. Soon, we drop down into the hamlet of Llangunllo, where there is a pub. “It’s closed,” says a local woman. “Evenings and weekends, and for drinking only.” There is a dearth of facilities along Glyndŵr’s Way, widely considered the most remote of all 17 English and Welsh national trails, and I have brought a stove and teabags. This will prove a good decision. We set off up the lane and then on to the hills. It is quiet, very quiet. Nothing moves except the distant wind turbines.

The writer on remote Glyndŵr’s Way. Photograph: Kevin Rushby

Rebellion is in the air at the moment. The Uprising, a film about the 1381 Peasants’ Revolt, directed by Paul Greengrass, will be released in the UK on 9 October. And a new play by Gary Owen, Owain & Henry, opens on 5 November in Cardiff with Michael Sheen in the lead role. On a call before I set off, I ask Sheen why Glyndŵr remains such a potent hero. “His vision for a Welsh nation was based on a Welsh parliament, universities, religion and the laws of Hywel Dda,” he tells me. “It’s a vision that resonates. The play feels like a conversation between then and now.”

Sheen himself has walked parts of Glyndŵr’s Way. He says: “Owain could only do the uprising because of that landscape; it enabled a guerrilla war and you still feel that today.”

Stevie and I take a break in the Llangunllo bus shelter. There are no refreshments, but there are stacks of unwanted books. I find a copy of Francis Kilvert’s Diary, by the Victorian curate who kept a vibrant record of life in the Welsh borders. “Who died on the cross to save us all?” he asks one wild child from a remote Welsh farm. “Lord Chesterfield,” she replies. I tuck the book in my pocket.

Approaching the hamlet of Llangunllo. Photograph: Simon Whaley Landscapes/Alamy

Soon we are climbing over hills where the heather and gorse is in glorious bloom and there are no roads except droving tracks. These green lanes were once used to send cattle and sheep across the border, a tough, brawling existence hinted at in Kilvert’s Diary. By then, however, the railways had arrived and the old droving life was doomed.

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At our first encounter with cattle, Stevie is happy to be carried. Different breeds, we soon learn, represent different threats: big cows can’t be bothered, small feisty ones are to be avoided. We take some long detours.

Our second night is at Brandy House farm, a welcoming place with various types of accommodation. We choose the vintage caravan. Nearby Felindre has a simple pub, the Wharf Inn, serving one of my favourite beers, Wye Valley Brewery’s Butty Bach.

Now the walk really begins to deliver. Majestic upland stages pass epic locations such as the Castell y Blaidd, the castle of the wolf, before arriving at Abbeycwmhir, the abbey that Glyndŵr reputedly sacked. I’m staying in a cabin at Wales in the Woods, a couple of miles up the hill in a deep, silent pine plantation, perfect for Glyndŵr reflections.

The ‘lovely, eccentric’ town of Llanidloes. Photograph: Joe Dunckley/Alamy

Next day, rain threatens, but we dodge all the showers, passing Saint Harmon, where Kilvert was briefly vicar, enjoying a stop at the superb Welsh Mountain Cider, then dropping down to Llanidloes. After three days on the trail, this lovely, slightly eccentric town seems like the big city, with so many pubs to choose from. We stay at the Unicorn. The following morning, we pass the Clywedog dam and climb to Y Star Inn, one of the highest pubs in Wales, which has three smart new pods to stay in. From here, the path rises again on what, for me, is the greatest stage of all. Leaving the trail, Stevie and I climb the 564-metre hill of Foel Fadian, opening up great panoramas of Cadair Idris, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and the Irish Sea. We follow the trail down and reach our destination, Machynlleth, a town that has the same eccentric edge as Llanidloes, with lots of interesting independent shops, pubs and cafes.

It was in Mach (as the locals often call it) that Glyndŵr briefly set up his parliament, and the building, albeit partially reconstructed in 1460, survives. It is an atmospheric spot and there, on the wall, charging into battle, is the great hero himself. Now I get the ghostly shivers. But it turns out the Victorian artist used the face of his patron, David Davies, the indefatigable railway builder of the 1850s and 60s. After five days of walking, Owain has eluded me yet again.

The trip was provided by National Trails and Natural Resources Wales. Walking Glyndŵr’s Way by Paddy Dillon is published by Cicerone (£16.95). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.

Owain & Henry runs from 5-28 November at Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff

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L.A. Measure FD voter guide: Hiking Fire Dept. sales tax

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The ballot initiative was spearheaded by the United Firefighters of Los Angeles City Local 112, the union representing rank-and-file firefighters, which has long argued that the department is underfunded.

The president of the union has said that the tax would be the most important thing for the LAFD “really ever.”

“The most important thing for the citizens of L.A. is our response times; this ballot measure would help us get more firefighters, more paramedics, more fire stations and more apparatus, which would let us respond faster to citizens of L.A.,” said Doug Coates, the president of UFLAC.

“In the Palisades, this measure would have let us respond quicker, knock it down faster, protect more homes … We would have saved more homes if we had had more firefighters, period,” he said.

The sales tax would represent the biggest investment in the city’s fire department since 2000, when voters approved Proposition F, a ballot measure that authorized the issuance of a $532-million bond — more than half of which was allocated to build 19 neighborhood fire stations and a helicopter maintenance facility.

The initiative also has received support from Mayor Karen Bass as well as Councilmember Traci Park, who represents Pacific Palisades.

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