hiking

Thick grey-green mud squidges through my toes as I step into the icy, irresistible water. I’m on the descent from the Britannia Hut at the foot of the Allalinhorn in the Valais canton of the Swiss Alps, and this turquoise pool of glacial meltwater has been on the horizon tempting me for an hour. I peel off all five layers of clothing and plunge into the murky water. After a night in a shared dorm without showers it’s bliss.

In winter, the jagged ridges of the Valais are the domain of expert skiers and ice climbers, but in summer the lower slopes become accessible to hikers, with the added bonus of the ski lift infrastructure. You can be surrounded by dramatic peaks with the security of well-marked trails ranging from gentle strolls to serious alpine routes. I’m here to hike to mountain huts, test my nerves on via ferrata routes, and fill my city-dweller lungs with clean Alpine air.

I begin my trip in Saas-Fee, a car-free high altitude village in the south-west of Switzerland, where I spend the night at the Walliserhof Grand-Hotel, famous for hosting Wham! when they filmed the Last Christmas music video here. From my balcony with a cold beer, I spend the evening drinking in views of church spires, geranium-covered balconies and the towering wall of mountains beyond.

Between Saas-Fee and the village of Saas-Grund lies a deep gorge – the Sass-Fee Alpine Canyon – which can only be tackled with a guide. A via ferrata system of ladders, metal rungs and cables allows climbers to access high-level routes while clipped into a safety cable. I’m lucky to be assigned Aldo Lomatter as my guide the next morning – he built this canyon route and knows it better than anyone. We criss-cross the gorge on wobbly bridges, climb ladders up and down the rock face, and disappear into gulleys on ziplines.

The intensity of the challenges build as the route progresses: crossing high above the river a vertiginous ladder bridge abruptly stops, and it’s a 40-metre abseil to the riverbed. We finish with a zipline, which ends deep in a dark cave: it’s a leap of faith, but also the only way down – and a thrilling finale. Climbing out of the cave on a shaky ladder, I emerge blinking into the sunlit hamlet of Saas-Grund and take the free minibus back to Saas-Fee for a fondue lunch.

Suitably refuelled, it’s time for my next adventure: a gondola and cable car take me to Morenia, the top gondola station, for the walk to the Britannia Hut at 3,030 metres. Only reachable by foot or helicopter, it’s a gentle two-hour hike over Egginerjoch but, even in mid-summer, much of that is over snow – though thankfully no crampons are needed.

The hut was built in 1912 as a gift from British members of the Swiss Alpine Club to thank the Swiss for their hospitality in the mountains. From the deckchairs outside, the views over the Allalin glacier and the Mattmark area are jaw-dropping.

Accommodation is simple but practical. Hikers share dormitories with wide wooden bunks, ours sleeps eight. There are communal plastic clogs to give tired feet a break from walking boots, otherwise guests pad around in thermals and big jumpers. The tap water isn’t drinkable and there are no showers. Supplies are brought up by helicopter, and water is as expensive as beer. Dinner is one sitting at 7pm, served family style with all guests eating the same meal. It’s hearty mountain food: cream of vegetable soup, saffron risotto, roast beef, vegetables and a fruit pudding. Hiking tales and weather forecasts are swapped jovially in many languages around the table. I sleep soundly, though I’m grateful for my earplugs and eye mask. Many guests here are preparing for long days and distant summits, so breakfast is served at 3am, 5am or 7am, and by the time I turn up for the last sitting the hut has mostly emptied.

I retrace my route to Morenia, stopping to cool off in meltwater on the way, and take the gondola back down to Saas-Fee where a second dip awaits at the WellnessHostel 4000, a youth hostel with its own spa. Below the cafeteria and dormitories, there are a 25-metre swimming pool and elegant wood-panelled, adults-only spa overlooking the gorge I traversed days before. I buy a day pass (CHF34.40) and spend a leisurely few hours in the pool, saunas and steam rooms, gazing out at the trees and river below. After a day in the mountains it’s a wonderful way to stretch tired muscles.

Keen to explore the area further, I take the free PostBus down the mountain to Visp and catch a train to Champéry at the other end of the canton. I spend a night at traditional family-run Hôtel Suisse, and eat at Café du Nord sitting outside under a fairy-light canopy. The next morning I meet Lloyd Wiltshire from Experience Champéry to be fitted with a harness for my next vertiginous challenge, Champéry’s Tière via ferrata, which takes climbers up steep cliffs high above the valley and is reached by a winding uphill walk through woods dripping with lichen. The most challenging point is a tricky climb in the spray of a thundering waterfall, followed by a single wire crossing above the River Tière – not for the faint-hearted.

After lunch I take the Croix de Culet cable car from Champéry to 1,962 metres. Covered in lush grass and alpine flowers, it’s hard to imagine that this is a popular ski area in winter. I walk through farmland, stopping to buy freshly made cheese and cakes from simple cafes and honesty boxes. My summit today is the Col de Cou mountain pass, where I stand with a foot either side of the French-Swiss border looking over the Terres Maudites and the Manche valley in France, and the Dents du Midi and Dents Blanches ridges in Switzerland.

Descending to the tranquil Barme plateau with tired legs, I find rest and refuge at Cantine de Barmaz, a rural restaurant with rooms. On the menu, the house special is choléra, a deliciously hearty leek, potato and cheese pie, ideal post-hike fortification with a glass of cold Swiss wine. I watch as the last light of the day illuminates the jagged spikes of the Dents du Midi in shades of glorious umber and gold. I then cosy into my dormitory bed in the eaves, lulled to sleep by the deep breathing of tired hikers and the rhythmic clang of distant cowbells.

The trip was provided by Saas-Fee Saastal, Région Dents du Midi and Visit Switzerland. For more information on the region see valais.ch. Half-board at Britannia Hut costs CHF98 (£92) a night for non-SAC members (CHF84 for members). Half-board at Auberge de montagne Cantine de Barmaz costs CHF68 a night in a dorm or CHF75 in a private room

A Los Angeles City Council panel is pushing to ban electric bikes from most city recreational trails, saying the machines pose a threat to hikers and equestrians.

The council’s Arts, Parks, Libraries, and Community Enrichment Committee voted 3 to 0 in favor of the measure, which now goes to the council’s Transportation Committee before potentially advancing to the full City Council, which would have to approve the ban before it takes effect.

“When you have something that’s motorized traversing that same space, especially if it’s somewhat of a rugged space, for folks that have sensitivities — knees, ankles — you don’t want to create an intimidating situation,” councilmember Adrin Nazarian said.

Although he voted to support the measure, Nazarian said he was open to making changes such as restricting some classes of e-bikes instead of a unilateral ban.

The ban, proposed by councilmember John Lee, would still allow e-bikes on designated bikeways in the city, including some of those along the L.A. River and city beaches.

Regular bikes are already banned from anything designated as a “trail,” according to a city ordinance, but a spokesperson for Lee said e-bikes were a gray area that his proposal aims to address.

Supporters of the measure include Lisa Baca of the Monteverde Ranch Equestrian Center in the northeast San Fernando Valley, who said horses are animals that can easily be spooked by facing moving e-bikes.

“They panic and it becomes very dangerous” for both riders, she said in an interview. At the same time, Baca noted that enforcing any ban on remote trails would be difficult.

Eli Akira Kaufman, director of the nonprofit advocacy group BikeLA, criticized the proposed ban as a “blunt instrument” and said the city should instead engage in a public education campaign aimed at getting people to share space safely.

Michael Schneider, chief executive of StreetsForAll, said the main problem on trails comes not from e-bikes but from people riding more powerful motorcycles and motorized trail bikes that aren’t street legal.

Federal regulations around e-bikes are lenient; they are considered nonmotorized vehicles like regular bikes and don’t require riders to have driver’s licenses or insurance. Local regulations, such as the one proposed by Lee, can vary widely by jurisdiction.

Under California law, e-bikes and e-motorcycles are separately classified by motor power, top speed and whether the bike has working pedals. Class 1 and Class 2 e-bikes don’t require licenses or insurance, while Class 3 riders need to be at least 16.

Catherine Lerer, a partner at law firm McGee Lerer Ogrin who has worked on dozens of e-bike accident cases, said accidents are more dangerous because riders — sometimes children — are moving faster than they would on a regular pedal bike.

“Minors riding e-bikes do not appreciate how fast that these bikes go, and they don’t know the rules that apply to riding an e-bike,” Lerer said. “It’s just a recipe for disaster.”

A MAJOR airline has become the first to increase luggage charges in response to the fuel crisis caused by the Iran conflict.

American carrier JetBlue has confirmed that the cost of taking baggage onboard is to go up – and others could follow suit.

The new costs will see checked bags go up by $4 (£3) for off peak, economy travellers, so will now be $39 (£30).

And the cost for peak economy travellers will go up by $9 (£6.80) so to $49 (£37).

Passengers paying for luggage less than 24 hours before the flight will pay an extra $10 (£7.50).

A JetBlue spokesperson told local media: “Adjusting fees for optional services used by select customers, such as checked baggage, allows us to continue offering more competitive fares.”

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So far, a number of airlines have already said they will be raising the cost of flights due to the fuel crisis.

Cathay Pacific, AirAsia and Thai Airways are just some that are increasing fares, along with Air New Zealand.

United Airlines said it could eventually see fares increase as much as 20 per cent.

Other airlines have said they are cancelling flights altogether.

United Airlines confirmed that it would be cutting five per cent of flights for the next few months, which works out to around 250 a month.

Air New Zealand has cancelled 1,100 fights, affecting 44,000 passengers, while Scandinavian airline SAS also cancelled 1,000 flights.

But airlines, especially budget ones, could choose to leave the cost of flights alone to remain competitive and instead raise the cost of extra fees.

In the UK, both Ryanair and easyJet have said their fares won’t be affected by the fuel crisis for now.

However, the crisis is being caused by the closure of the Strait of Hormuz – and the longer it continues, the more they will be at risk.

The Strait of Hormuz is one of the world’s most important oil routes, with around 20million barrels passing through every day – roughly 20 per cent of global supply.

Petrol and diesel fuel costs have increased by more than 17p a litre since the end of February, with a litre of unleaded petrol costing 150.11p as of March 30.

This historic Shropshire market town is bursting with history and has more than 500 listed buildings to explore, plus a vibrant food scene and festivals

Brimming with heritage, this charming market town makes for the perfect weekend escape, boasting over 500 listed buildings to discover and its renowned culinary scene.

Numerous visitors flock to Ludlow for its closeness to excellent hiking and cycling spots, while history enthusiasts adore it for its ancient churches, castles and mediaeval landmarks.

As the town has developed through the years, it now provides a lively atmosphere with its own market, independent retailers and regular festivals showcasing local talent.

Ludlow is situated along the River Teme, with its most ancient area being the mediaeval walled town, tracing as far back as the 11th century.

This section of the market town lies on the eastern bank of the river, whilst the castle perches on a hill and the remaining streets slope downwards towards the water.

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Ludlow Castle

As one of the primary tourist draws in the region, Ludlow Castle stands as an uninhabited, partly ruined medieval fortification. Its origins are traced as far back as 1066 – subsequently, it became the residence of Prince Edward from 1473 to 1483, and for centuries it remained under the care of the crown.

By 1760, the government had contemplated demolishing the structure but, owing to substantial costs, opted instead to lease it, and thus the Earl of Powis started his residency in 1711.

From that point onwards, the magnificent castle started to draw tourists, with their appreciation for the picturesque style, and walking routes were established exploring the grounds and neighbouring areas.

Following the success of this venture, the Earl acquired the castle in 1811, and it has remained under the guardianship of the Trustees of the Powis Castle Estate ever since, who hold ownership on behalf of the family.

One visitor commented on TripAdvisor: “Lovely morning exploring the castle; so much to wander around even though it was very cold. The views were amazing from the top of the towers. You could feel the history come alive whilst walking around.”

Another said: “The main attraction in Ludlow – a site of enormous historical significance. The castle covers a very extensive area with amazing views from the top. In the castle shop do go upstairs to the gallery; it has some very interesting information.”

The fortress, perched proudly atop that very same hill, continues to welcome the public to discover and understand its significance to the town. Opening hours may fluctuate, though the castle can generally be expected to be accessible from 10am until 4pm daily.

Admission tickets can be purchased upon arrival – though advance booking online is usually recommended. Adult admission costs £10, whilst a child ticket is £5 and family tickets are £28.

Stokesay Castle

The remarkable buildings don’t end there, as Stokesay’s magnificent manor house continues to captivate passers-by with its timber-framed features.

Constructed like a fortress, though in reality it is a mansion, completed in 1291, and with minimal signs of alteration or modernisation ever since.

Owned by English Heritage, the protected structure has been meticulously maintained to reflect its original state and provides guided tours for those eager to discover more.

The property was originally established by Laurence of Ludlow, a celebrated wool merchant, actually one of the finest in the nation, and it stayed within his family until the 16th century.

The building’s architecture and design offer valuable insights into the period and continue to serve as a portal to the past. It welcomes visitors from Thursday to Sunday, 10am to 4pm, with adult admission priced at £9 and children’s tickets at £5.40.

One guest commented: “The castle that is not a castle! Thoroughly enjoyed our visit. The audio guide provided us with an amazing amount of useful information. A must-visit whilst in the area.”

Dining options

Ludlow boasts a strong reputation as a haven for food lovers, frequently dubbed the culinary capital of Shropshire. It’s earned this accolade through its excellent range of local produce, with countless independent suppliers and premium artisan food, all highlighted at the yearly food festival.

Taking place over one weekend in September, this year on 11-13, the festival features a vibrant programme of live events, including culinary demonstrations, workshops, talks and, naturally, showcases produce you can purchase to take away.

Naturally, the area also boasts numerous pubs and restaurants that garner considerable acclaim in their own right. Topping the rankings on TripAdvisor is The Blue Boar, a beautifully restored Grade II listed pub located on Mill Street.

A recent visitor commented: “Wonderful cosy, homely, friendly pub. Called twice on our little getaway, food was excellent, service was professional and friendly, and we would definitely recommend it to all our friends and family. Can’t wait for our next trip to Ludlow just to visit here again.”

Additional dining establishments include The French Pantry, Old Downton Lodge, The Queens, and the Michelin restaurant, known as The Charlton Arms Restaurant.

The Peak District village was systematically demolished and submerged in the 1940s to provide water for the industrial industries during the second world war – but it’s ruins remain

It lies beneath a beloved hiking destination in Derbyshire, but this was once a thriving community before it was deliberately flooded and lost forever.

During the 1940s, the picturesque village of Derwent was methodically demolished and submerged beneath what is today known as Ladybower Reservoir.

The expansive, stunning expanse of water frequently serves as a stopping point for visitors admiring the scenery whilst exploring the Peak District, yet few realise what rests beneath its surface.

The reason for its submersion was to supply water to the booming industrial centres throughout the East Midlands during World War Two.

Locals were relocated, and by 1945 the valley had been flooded, with remnants of the former settlement now resting underwater.

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Derwent before it drowned

Prior to the outbreak of war across Britain, Derwent had seemed like a permanent fixture in the moorlands, characterised by its century-old structures and tight-knit community.

Two initial dams were constructed after the water board selected a remote section of the valley. This decision impacted numerous residents. Those who owned farms or smallholdings were relocated to safer areas including Derwent and the neighbouring village of Ashopton.

What they couldn’t have anticipated was that this stretch of the valley, and their cherished village which they’d made their home, would shortly vanish entirely.

The village church conducted its final service for parishioners on March 17, 1943, before being submerged beneath the reservoir. Remnants of the church can be found scattered throughout Derby, with the bell now rehung at St Philip’s Church in Chaddesden.

Whilst nearly the entire area was deliberately flooded, a small number of homes survive above the waterline. Reports indicate that five properties from the original village endure, including several farms and the former village hall.

Mabel, a former Bamford resident who was 92 at the time of her interview, spoke to BBC Travel about growing up nearby and her memories of Derwent.

She revealed: “I may be the last person who remembers Ashopton and Derwent,” explaining that her school was located in Derwent, which she attended whilst the reservoir was being built.

The village emerged

During periods of extreme heat or reduced water levels, the reservoir has receded, and hauntingly, remnants of the village have surfaced. This phenomenon has been documented on several occasions, with the first instance occurring in 1976, leaving locals astounded.

The most recent, and consequently most significant, reappearance of the village occurred in 2018, when reservoir levels dropped dramatically and visitors flocked from across the region to witness the extraordinary spectacle.

An enormous crowd assembled, and the attention drawn to the old structures – which are largely piles of rubble and bricks – resulted in various complications.

On 3 November that year, a man found himself in a sticky situation, requiring mountain rescue assistance after becoming severely stuck in the dense mud surrounding the ruins of Derwent.

In a similar vein, due to the influx of visitors, the remnants were defaced with graffiti, prompting park rangers to discourage further visits as additional items were also taken from the site.

CROATIA has around 1,244 islands – and one has compared to being on the Moon.

Pag, which is one hour from Zadar, has a vast rocky landscape – but is also a huge party island with popular beach clubs.

Pag is the fifth-largest island in Croatia and it has beaches aplenty as it has the longest coastline of all the islands.

Unlike other surrounding islands, Pag not only has a bridge connecting it to the mainland, but is split between two counties.

The northern part is part of Lika-Senj County and the southern part belongs to Zadar County.

While both the north and south have busy towns, the island also has a vast landscape that’s been compared to the Moon.

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Toni Hrelja, founder of Croatian rental company Villsy.com, said: “People expect Croatia to be green and Mediterranean.

“Then they arrive on Pag and feel like they’ve landed on the Moon, or even Mars. It’s raw, dramatic and completely unexpected.”

The Mars comparison can be seen via the ‘Life On Mars Trail‘ which starts at the village of Metajna, with multiple trails around the island passing bays and beaches along the way.

One hiker said: “I loved it, it’s just magnificent” and added “bring something to swim in because it is hard to resist.”

While the island is known for its otherworldly natural beauty, the northern part of the island is also famous for nightlife.

Zrće Beach in particular, which is near the main town of Novalja has even been called “Europe‘s party beach”.

Some of the most famous and biggest clubs include Papaya which is open-air on the beach – it has multiple pools, bars, and dancefloors, and holds summer festivals.

Aquarius is another, which is a bar and restaurant during the day, but from 3pm, hosts huge beach parties.

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Meanwhile, the southern side is more peaceful and family-friendly.

Grad Pag, also known as Pag town, is the largest destination in the south and is known for being much more quiet and calmer than the northern town of Novalja.

Vlašići Beach is on the south of the island – it’s quieter than beaches in the north and is known for having pretty clear waters.

When it comes to getting to Pag, the easiest way to visit is by heading to Zadar where visitors can then take an hour car or bus ride.

The cheapest ticket price for a bus trip is as little as £5.

If you hire out a car, you can reach the island by driving across the Pag Bridge from the mainland to the south side.

For anyone wanting to stay on the island, there are Airbnbs starting from £52 per night.

April is a great time for Brits to visit, as the weather is milder than in the height of summer with temperatures around 18C.

It’s when flights are cheap too – in April, flights to Zadar are as little as £15 with Ryanair from London Stansted.

For more on Croatia, here’s another lesser-known island without the crowds of Hvar where you can spot turtles on the beach.

And here’s where you’ll find Europe’s ‘golden island’ once loved by royal families that’s a sleepy alternative to its busy neighbours.

The Peak District National Park is one of the most beautiful areas Britain has to offer, and this town, paired with this tour, gives you the ultimate experience of it

The Peak District National Park in Derbyshire is a sight to behold, but with over 300,000 acres worth of land and some pretty sheer climbs, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. If caught by such doubt, there’s only one real answer.

One of the best ways to see the heights of the peaks and immerse yourself in their splendour is to ditch the hiking boots altogether. And the best place to begin, I’d argue, is at the very top, in Buxton – England’s highest market town.

When staying at The Buxton Crescent Hotel, the real heart of the town and a hub for a truly tranquil escape to Derbyshire, you can be assured that there’s a fantastic range of trails on your doorstep. There are a number of routes to take, so I hopped on a bike courtesy of PeakePedals and cycled out.

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Bike Tours

Specifically designed for guests staying at the hotel and catering for those travelling in at Buxton Station is White Peak Adventure. This is a route created by the cycling experts at PeakePedals to help visitors experience the villages, valleys and hills of the White Peak, just south of Buxton.

Many guests opt to hire their e-bikes and a Garmin GPX navigation device with their chosen route pre-programmed. This means they can have their own day out, with clear directions, and none of the fuss.

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However, we were lucky to have a tour guide in Dan, a team member and local expert, who took us through the winding roads and hills, pointing out the areas of interest along the way.

Touring on a bike means you can see a hell of a lot more of the Peaks than you naturally would on foot. We ended up going over 20 miles around the national park, winding through villages and along pretty country roads. This is perfect for someone who only has a day or a short weekend to explore and is keen to make the most out of that time – with all the views and none of the blisters.

Passing through the stunning ‘Dragon’s Back’ limestone reef was a true highlight of the ride for me, and having previously climbed it, I can assure you it was far less difficult and even more beautiful from below. The bike certainly offered a fresh perspective on the Peaks.

We stopped and gawped periodically, while our guide recommended pubs, cafés or the best villages we might want to spend a moment in. But Dan was happy to take our lead, as he would remind us: “It’s your day.” We opted for two stops, one in Longnor and the other in Hartington – two quintessentially English villages.

As a big coffee lover, this was ideal, as I can never get enough of stumbling upon a cosy coffee spot and sampling some homemade bakes. Of course, here in Buxton, the local delicacy is the Bakewell Tart, which is a must-try when in the Derbyshire area.

As charming a day as it was, it being Britain and March, cold and thick fog descended, obscuring the beauty of the hills a little.

Of course, it’s hard to come to the Peaks and not take on somewhat of a hike, and for a short hike with ease near Buxton, Lud’s Church is the perfect choice. Sitting less than a 20-minute drive outside of the town, it’s a popular route, proven by the groups of walkers we saw heading that way.

The terrain is easy, and the route isn’t steep. The hidden paradise that you reach is certainly a treat.

Beginning at The Roaches Gradbach Car Park, we were able to park up and begin the walk, following the signposts along the way. It took us past the scout camp, down a rocky path alongside farmers’ fields, before reaching a tranquil little bridge.

As you walk, you wind through forests and find yourself at the mysterious gorge, illuminated by green moss. When I stepped down into the chasm, I felt as though I’d stumbled across a hidden gem, like something out of Jurassic Park or Jumanji, with tropical-looking plants growing in between rocks, covered in layers of the brightest green moss.

Once you reach the other side of it, climbing out of the gorge, it’s mostly flat, and we had a carefree walk through the trees, slowly making our way back down in a circular route, back to the car. All in all, the walk typically takes two hours, but we were able to complete it in an hour and a half, driven on as we were by a desire to eat lunch.

Book it

Emily stayed at Champneys Buxton Crescent Hotel & Wellness Spa start from £185 including bed and breakfast. For general hotel bookings, please visit: buxtoncrescent.com and contact Email: info@buxtoncrescent.com Tel: +44 1298 808 999

Visit Peake Pedals for bike hire and private tours.

Surrounded by countryside and quaint shops, spending the night in this historic crescent building felt like living out a life in a period drama manor

Pulling up to the hotel felt like I was stepping into the world of Bridgerton. It was impossible not to be immediately blown away by the sheer size of its Georgian masterpiece, which is the exact greeting I’d expect from a five-star hotel.

The Buxton Crescent Hotel sits at the very heart of the Derbyshire town. Really, it is the centrepiece of the place, and so it would be hard to imagine staying anywhere else when visiting for a weekend.

Buxton, as a spa town, rivals Bath and is famous for its natural and ancient spring waters that have been filtered through the Peak District’s limestone for 5,000 years. It’s these clean, drinkable, and consistently warm waters that provide mineral-rich and calming waters to the spa within the hotel.

These small but significant details are what make the Buxton Crescent hotel feel so swanky. To know I was staying within the walls of such a historic building certainly helped me live out my period drama dreams.

Room

After a very warm welcome and helpful valet service from the team, we were directed to our humble abode for the night, which was one of the Crescent Rooms with rear-facing views. The décor had a timeless feel to it that felt aged, but with class, generally the kind I’d expect for a hotel of this sort – but it was nothing mind-blowing.

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It was clean, the bed was incredibly comfortable, and it had everything we needed for a simple night’s stay. Normally, the package we enjoyed – which included a night’s stay, spa access, dinner, and breakfast – would cost around £510 for this time of year.

A particularly noteworthy feature of the room was the shower, which, to be honest, was potentially the best I’ve ever had, with a huge overhead waterfall and amazing water pressure. I guess you’d expect nothing less from a town quite literally famous for its water and cleansing methods, and it certainly beats the half-hearted drip of a flimsy budget hotel bathroom.

Spa facilities

Buxton Crescent is part of the Champneys Spa empire, but it definitely didn’t feel like a chain. Instead, it offered an authentic spa experience, and one of luxury at that.

I was impressed by just how big the place was and kept stumbling upon different rooms, areas, underground, and on the roof – like the rest of the hotel, it is a bit of a maze.

There are a number of unique features that make this spa a standout in my eyes, the first blindingly obvious one – the epic rooftop pool. It’s rare to find an outdoor pool anywhere in Derbyshire, let alone one on the roof of an 18th-century building, and yet it certainly adds a wow factor to the place.

Even amid the thick fog and cold of June, its thermal waters and bubbling pools create a cool environment for a relaxing swim. It’s a shame the views aren’t much to write home about, considering Buxton is surrounded by beauty.

Adding to this sense of magic is the colour-illuminated relaxation pool in a dimly lit room. The thermal pool sits peacefully beneath an impressive stained-glass canopy that reflects onto the water and the original 1920s tiles lining the pool. I think it’s these standout elements combined that lend the hotel its five-star status.

I was lucky enough to experience one of the unique water-based treatments, which the hotel claims is not available anywhere else in the UK. Opting for the Signature Wave Balance on the Water Couch, I was going into this rather blindly.

The masseuse was friendly and made me feel incredibly comfortable as she used the waterbed’s rhythms to create movement beneath me and gently helped relax my muscles. Personally, I don’t think this treatment was for me, and I would have enjoyed a more intense massage over a relaxation one, not to mention the atmosphere outside of the room was a slight mood killer.

With it being a Saturday, a bit of busyness at the spa is expected. However, outside of the room, I could hear doors shutting, floorboards creaking, and people chatting, and it was hard to stay in my ‘waterbed cocoon’ with all that going on – there’s only so much tranquil music can drown out.

Restaurant

I am everyone’s least favourite type of person to dine with (vegetarian), so if a menu isn’t stacked with options, which they rarely are, I can be a bit of an awkward one. However, the veggie options at the hotel were drool-worthy and felt just as fancy as any other meat-based dish. Not to mention, the setting and service were arguably the most five-star aspects of this place.

As we entered the restaurant for our reservation, we immediately felt underdressed, as guests were quite literally suited and booted for their evening meal. The dimly lit restaurant, wine stands, and well-dressed waiters made the experience feel very fancy, adding to my sense of a regal stay.

I couldn’t help but find the way the space transformed in the morning quite humorous. While the furniture remains the same, the lights are up, people are helping themselves to food, and all of the same guests’ blazers are swapped for hoodies.

In my opinion, there’s only so fancy a breakfast can get in a hotel, when really, everyone just wants a full English. I was pleased to see both vegetarian and vegan options of this, but more importantly, alongside a menu of dishes, you could tuck into smoothies, fruits, yoghurts, pastries, the lot.

Whilst it did sort of feel like the shine had worn off by morning with coffee-stained menus and mugs, as far as hotel breakfasts go, I thought it was still up there with the best.

In the area

There’s no questioning how perfectly placed the Buxton Crescent Hotel is in respect of all that the town has to offer; it is in the centre of it all. So much so that I thought it felt as though the town was built around this very building.

Attached to the building is the Cavendish Arcade, which offers a range of independent shops perfect to mooch around. In fact, this building is actually where the town’s original hot baths were first housed.

Just a stone’s throw away from the hotel entrance is the high street, bursting with cafes, restaurants and shops, as well as other little roads leading you to more hidden independent spots. I’d certainly suggest a wander, as some of the best-looking foodie spots are slightly more tucked away from the Greggs and Café Nero of it all – shock.

For deeper exploration, Buxton acts as the ideal hub for hikers and cyclists keen to explore the Peak District National Park. Lud’s Church is one of the closest and most popular routes, full of dramatic views and a sense of mystery with its moss-covered gorges.

Meanwhile, a more challenging hike would take you to Dragon’s Back, a ridge walk near Buxton that showcases the jagged, rugged limestone cliffs of the peaks. Previously, I parked up in the village of Hollinsclough and walked from there, but there are other alternative starting points.

The Buxton Crescent Hotel is the ultimate romantic spa getaway in the Peak District, and that was evident by the number of couples surrounding us at dinner, in the spa, and on our hike. Clearly, we missed the memo all this time that Buxton is, in fact, the place to be for an idyllic romantic getaway.

Book it

Rooms at Champneys Buxton Crescent Hotel & Wellness Spa start from £185 including bed and breakfast. For general hotel bookings, please visit: buxtoncrescent.com and contact Email: info@buxtoncrescent.com Tel: +44 1298 808 999

This countryside spot is steeped in folklore about a monstrous Barghest that legends claim crushed victims – making for an atmospheric hiking spot

Nestled within an abandoned mining region, hidden away in the Wharfedale valley of the Yorkshire Dales, lies a collapsed limestone ravine, brimming with historical tales, folklore and even a potentially terrifying resident.

Unless you’re aware of its existence, the enigmatic cavern is virtually invisible from view, concealed just off the roadside, making it a genuine secret treasure for ramblers.

Troller’s Gill is a legendary location beloved by keen walkers who venture to the region hoping to witness its splendour, as it packs considerable natural beauty into a compact trail.

The difficulty level for the path is fairly moderate, largely due to a handful of sections requiring scrambling, with a total distance of 2.6 km. It’s a trek that typically takes around one hour and can therefore be combined with any other walking or exploration activities you’ve planned during your stay in the Dales.

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To access this captivating destination, you can leave your vehicle on New Road, where parking is free, before discovering this luminous green treasure.

Upon arrival, you’ll understand why it’s such a frequently discussed location and observe its rocky brook, which seems to emerge from nowhere.

Approximately a 15-minute stroll from where you’ve parked, you’ll spot a disused mine, the former operations of Gill Heads Mine, which has remained dormant since the early 1980s.

The entrance features a substantial gate with rockfall partially obstructing it, and visitors are strongly advised against entering the mine itself due to potential hazards, including potholes and collapse risks.

Legends and myths

Since its existence began, Trollers Gill has been cloaked in mystery but there’s one talethat particularly stands out from the rest. The location is thought to have been haunted by a Barghest, a massive hound with large luminous eyes.

According to ancient folklore, encountering the creature was far from fortunate but rather a harbinger of death, as those who crossed paths with the fearsome beast were frequently crushed to death or ripped apart, tales suggest.

One legend recounts the story of a man, John Lambert of Skirethorns, who bragged in a local pub about what he’d do to the enormous hound, which involved ‘giving it a good thrashing’ if he were to ever come across it. However, legend has it, he encountered the dog on his journey home, and it fatally crushed him.

John Henry Dixon from Grassington may have been the first individual to document such tales when he contributed a poem to a book published in 1827, William Hone’s Table Book.

In the ballad he describes a courageous man who ventures out to visit the Gill hoping to summon the mighty Barghest.

As he entered the gorge, he sensed the spirit of the stream warning him to turn back, but he disregarded it. He drew a protective magic circle around himself “with charms unblest”.

In his brief tale, the stream swelled and thundered, accompanied by a powerful wind, sweeping down the valley. He glimpsed the enormous shadow of the growling dog, its eyes illuminating the gorge walls.

The ferocious creature launched itself at the man and seized him as its next victim, dragging him to the valley floor, where his remains were subsequently discovered.

Various mythical creatures and supernatural entities have been reported inhabiting the ravine, which quite literally takes its name from trolls. It’s believed that Trollers’ Gill originates from ‘Troll’s Valley’, drawing from the Scandinavian tongue of those who made this area their home.

Their traditions and legends indicate that the term ‘troll’ encompasses any supernatural creatures, ranging from hulking giants to goblins, and naturally ‘trolls dwelling beneath the bridge’.

Meanwhile, the term ‘trolldom’ was understood to signify witchcraft and therefore implies the name stems from the notion of the valley being cursed, enchanted or inhabited by otherworldly beings.

This spectacular Victorian mansion is Britain’s original smart home and the world’s first hydroelectric-powered building, featuring historic gardens and starred as Lockwood Manor in Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom

Nestled within a spectacular mountain setting, this Victorian property stands as a genuine architectural trailblazer and the very first of its kind.

Cragside in Rothbury, Northumberland, holds the title of Britain’s original smart home, and it’s utterly magnificent. From the exterior, the enormous mansion looms over the water beneath it, all asymmetrical and striking, resembling something straight out of a film.

Its multiple pointed roofs and curved brickwork give it a distinctly Tim Burton-esque quality, and indeed, it has featured in numerous productions thanks to its remarkably distinctive beauty.

It appeared in the 2018 blockbuster hit Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom as the location for Lockwood Manor.

Yet it’s truly the fact this was the world’s first building powered by hydroelectricity and operated by hydraulics that makes it such an extraordinary marvel. Rivers, lakes and even waterfalls all work together to power the property and its enchanting gardens.

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History

Cragside was brought to life through the vision of William and Margaret Armstrong, with William serving as an engineer and industrialist responsible for numerous groundbreaking inventions.

Meanwhile, Margaret had extensive expertise in botanical life, which inspired the creation of the gardens.

What began as simply a sporting lodge in 1863 gradually evolved into a sprawling estate, developed over three decades. The architectural masterpiece was expanded in three principal phases between 1870 and 1884 by architect Richard Norman Shaw.

It quickly evolved into a hub of groundbreaking innovation as the married couple developed their revolutionary vision for electricity and power generation.

The property operates through hydraulics in an entirely unique manner, standing as the world’s first water-powered home. It pioneered central heating, electric lighting, gravity-fed plumbing, water-driven machinery and a hydraulic lift, delivering unprecedented levels of domestic comfort.

Contributing to the property’s pioneering spirit is the electric lighting, which was installed in 1878 using carbon-arc lamps in the Gallery room.

Working alongside chemist Joseph Swan, they advanced this further in 1880 by enabling the first residential installation of incandescent lightbulbs.

Following years of refurbishment and innovation, the property eventually passed to their great-nephew, William Watson Armstrong, after he inherited it.

As they had no children, he became the rightful heir to the estate, and following their passing, the home remained with his family for two additional generations.

Walking

Due to its breathtaking setting, Cragside provides an excellent location for extensive walks across and surrounding the grounds, featuring two particularly lengthy routes – one called the Hydro-power Trail and the other Views of Cragside.

Stretching a lengthy 6.5 miles, these trails are closer to a hike than a leisurely stroll and could occupy the majority of your visit, but the estate serves as an excellent launch pad for the adventure.

The Hydro-power Trail is one that guides you past every aspect of the technology used to harness water power.

On the other hand, the Views of Cragside route offers panoramic views of the Northumberland hills and beyond. It leads you past the Formal Garden, where you can pause to appreciate the meticulously arranged flower beds.

There are signposts scattered throughout the estate directing you to various trails suitable for a range of abilities. The most family-friendly and considered easy to moderate is Nelly’s Moss, which takes up to an hour to complete.

Visiting the estate

To fully enjoy all that Cragside has to offer, there’s no need to pre-book, and parking is included in your entry fee – National Trust members excepted, naturally. Adults are charged £27.00, whilst children pay £13.50 upon entry.

Families consisting of two adults and up to three children can opt for a family ticket priced at £67.50. The site opens its doors from 11am, with the house closing at 3pm and the remaining facilities open until 4pm.

Sitting in a glacial valley surrounded by vast farmland is an area that offers tranquillity and a true sense of England’s countryside with historic villages and walking trails

For those seeking a sense of peace and tranquillity, this glacial valley, encircled by expansive farmland, delivers precisely that – an authentic taste of England’s rural heartland.

Littondale is a small and peaceful dale in Yorkshire, nestled in a classic u-shape, with deep historical roots and a flavour of country living from a bygone era.

Visitors to the dale experience a feeling that time has stood still, as its hamlets and way of life remain quintessentially English in every respect.

Indeed, archaeologists have discovered numerous prehistoric and later settlements that once inhabited the length of the valley. Their extensive findings also showed that throughout the mediaeval period the dale was predominantly managed by several monastic houses.

The dale now consists of several settlements, including Hawkswick, Arncliffe and Litton. Each is characterised by farmhouses dating back to the 17th century.

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Contributing to its peaceful atmosphere is the stunning river which famously winds through the valley before eventually merging with the larger River Wharfe.

Shallow yet flowing with remarkably clear waters, the River Skirfare meanders through the farmlands and valley floor, vanishing for portions of the year.

As seasonal conditions shift, the stream trickles away and disappears beneath the ground, near Litton, revealing an unusual limestone landscape below.

Arncliffe

Arncliffe stands as one of the principal villages in the region, and despite its compact size, it boasts considerable fame. Recognised by countless households across Britain, it served as the original backdrop and filming location for the much-loved soap Emmerdale Farm.

The village pub, called the Falcon, was even featured as the Woolpack Inn. The traditional inn, according to visitor feedback, has seen better days.

However, one guest commented on TripAdvisor: “We had read about this tiny pub. It had been featured on the TV soap Emmerdale many moons ago, and it did not disappoint! The landlord was straight out of central casting.”

The area still comprises the most enchanting stone cottages, alongside a delightful church, the Church of St Oswald. Constructed sometime between the 16th and 18th centuries, the building remains a listed structure, believed to have been developed from an original Saxon place of worship.

Positioned at the centre of the village, the church continues to attract curious visitors and was once a location regularly visited by the renowned poet and novelist Charles Kingsley.

His time there during the Victorian period was believed to have influenced his celebrated children’s story, The Water Babies, penned in 1873.

Walking

Many people choose to treat the area as a base for rambling, parking in one of its villages and tackling the Yorkshire Dales terrain. Most of these trails are circular, returning you directly to your starting point, whilst exploring the valleys and peaks en route.

The Littondale to Kettlewell walk is a well-loved route, starting in the village of Arncliffe, leading you across the shoulder of Birks in Kettlewell, where you can pause for refreshments, before returning into Littondale.

Alternatively, some choose the slightly over five-mile walk that takes you from Arncliffe to Litton and loops back round.

The two-hour ramble provides a leisurely countryside stroll as you soak up the picturesque beauty of Yorkshire, with the chance to make a stop, or two, at the charming village pubs.